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Car Issue (1 Viewer)

[SIZE=medium]Some more research tells me that perhaps I should be looking at the variable valve timing solenoid. If I replace that, do I need to do both? The guy on the video I watched changed both and seemed to be having the same issues as me. I’d rather not spend the extra $130 if I only need to replace one. [/SIZE]

 
Usually your truck will sound like a diesel knocking on start up if those are bad...They will throw off the timing too.. but normally it won't make the truck stall..

 
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Long story, short, I managed to drop a screw into the timing chain area. No way to possibly locate it. This seems like a potentially huge issue. Is it possible the "area" is deep enough that the screw won't be an issue if it fell to the bottom?

 
Long story, short, I managed to drop a screw into the timing chain area. No way to possibly locate it. This seems like a potentially huge issue. Is it possible the "area" is deep enough that the screw won't be an issue if it fell to the bottom?
The only area where the screw is will be your wallet.

 
Long story, short, I managed to drop a screw into the timing chain area. No way to possibly locate it. This seems like a potentially huge issue. Is it possible the "area" is deep enough that the screw won't be an issue if it fell to the bottom?
The only area where the screw is will be your wallet.
You should really check this. You can easily replace a maf in 10 minutes. You can get a china part off ebay for less then 75. I chose to buy a genuine Bosch part off partsgeek because of how easy the install was and how common the problem was with my model car.

 
Cjw_55106 said:
Long story, short, I managed to drop a screw into the timing chain area. No way to possibly locate it. This seems like a potentially huge issue. Is it possible the "area" is deep enough that the screw won't be an issue if it fell to the bottom?
Inside the engine?? Inside the timing cover?? A long extendable retrieval magnet is money in this situation...

 
Cjw_55106 said:
Long story, short, I managed to drop a screw into the timing chain area. No way to possibly locate it. This seems like a potentially huge issue. Is it possible the "area" is deep enough that the screw won't be an issue if it fell to the bottom?
Inside the engine?? Inside the timing cover?? A long extendable retrieval magnet is money in this situation...
ill have to try again, but I tried for about ten minutes with the magnet. It seems to get stuck on other parts, but I have yet to see a screw.
 
No need to start a new thread, but I have a question.

I changed the pads on the front of my '05 expedition. The pads came with a packet of clips. The gal at AutoZone said if you've heard a car driving down the road with a constant squealing, it is porobably because they used old clips. The issue is, I didnt even see any old clips to replace, and this packet had at least a dozen. Sure enough, the breaks now squeal all the time. You tube videos Ive watched do not mention the clips?

 
No need to start a new thread, but I have a question.

I changed the pads on the front of my '05 expedition. The pads came with a packet of clips. The gal at AutoZone said if you've heard a car driving down the road with a constant squealing, it is porobably because they used old clips. The issue is, I didnt even see any old clips to replace, and this packet had at least a dozen. Sure enough, the breaks now squeal all the time. You tube videos Ive watched do not mention the clips?
the chick from autozone is an idiot. the reason pads squeal is because there is a wear indicator that makes that noise or brake dust. Blow the entire assembly off with compressed air or at the car wash if it is still squealing pull the tire off and check the pad thickness. In you case the clip hold the pad in place when you put the pad back on the caliper. I am careful when I take them off so I don't need to replace.
 
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The clips will be on the caliper mount bracket.. The new pads will "slide" on these clips... If your old ones didn't have any, they were missing.

 
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The clips will be on the caliper mount bracket.. The new pads will "slide" on these clips... If you old ones didn't have any, they were missing.
Are there really that many? Seems odd that I wouldnt notice them.
Depends.. some pads come with "anti squeal" shims that go on the backs of the pads... and some come with teflon coated "shims" that the pads slide on.. those go on the caliper mount and can be 2 per caliper or 4, depending

on if they are one long piece or 2 short pieces..

 
Buy OEM pads for an Expedition. Motorcraft doesn't cost that much more.
Clearly my knowledge is limited here. This is what I bought:

Duralast Gold/Brake Pads - Front


Price: $36.99
  • Part Number: DG591
  • Warranty: Limited Lifetime
  • Notes: Semi-metallic *OE Replacement *OE Performance with aggressive stopping power and longer life

 
Buy OEM pads for an Expedition. Motorcraft doesn't cost that much more.
Clearly my knowledge is limited here. This is what I bought:

Duralast Gold/Brake Pads - Front


Price: $36.99
  • Part Number: DG591
  • Warranty: Limited Lifetime
  • Notes: Semi-metallic *OE Replacement *OE Performance with aggressive stopping power and longer life
Duralast is the AutoZone house brand. Motorcraft is made by Ford for your Expedition.

Did you turn the rotors or just slap pads on? There are lots of reasons your brakes could be making noise.

 

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