Any deck builders / DIYers out there that can lend some advice on what should be the world's easiest "floating deck" ?
Trying to build a wheelchair ramp for my 83-year old father in my parent's attached double garage. It's really more of a 5'x5' platform out their entry way , 14" above the garage floor. A separate 3' wide by 8' matching wood ramp would be attached.
I have the advantage of what I imagine should be a perfectly level concrete slab (garage floor), so this should be a cakewalk, right? The only obstacle to work around (or on top of) is the existing concrete step 37"W x 7.25"H x 12.5"D, along with a 2x4 makeshift handrail attached on one side.
The plan to get to 14" for the platform:
2" ground offset for Tuffblocks
11.25" 5x5 frame of 2x12s, 3 interior joists 15" apart
1" 5/4 decking
14.25"
Does this plan make sense? I was considering a number of ways to do it. Using more traditional vertical posts in the Tuffblocks, stacking the joist frame on top of the beams. But with such a simple size and low height, this was K.I.S.S. option that seemed to make the most sense.
Ideally, the two "beams" would be double 2x12s for added strength, but that won't fit in the Tuffblock. The other issue is that one of the rim joists running along the garage wall will run straight into the cement step. Only a 2x6 will fit for this joist, which is problematic as the highest traffic area. If I lay a second 2x6 joist and/or add additional 2x6s blocking in this area, will that get the job done?
Rough plan for the ramp:
11.25" (4) diagonally cut 2x12 stringers
1.5"screwed into a flat 2x10 base
1" 5/4 decking
1/2" shim to help it meet the platform
14.25"
I imagine I'll need to notch some of the decking pieces and use some kind of metal face plate at the bottom of the stringers to meet the floor.
Any knowledge I have acquired on this subject has probably been learned from youtube in the past two weeks. Genuinely interested in any input from those with experience. My mom got an estimate for $2,000 to install a 7' metal ramp directly into the entry way door. Very problematic in that the handrails effectively take away all access to the back door. It's basically a more solid version of a folding ramp we purchased for $150 that my dad wasn't comfortable with even though me and my mom were able to ride his wheelchair down it. I'm thinking for half of the price in lumber materials, he could actually exit through the door on level ground and have room to make a left turn down a wide wooden ramp. Build steps to the platform for more convenient access to the back door and to their car. Less commotion than a 7' ramp directly into the door funneling all traffic while cutting off the back door. The estimate for an L-shaped version of the metal ramp was $4K.
I think I get what you're trying to do generally - build a platform outside of the door over existing stairs that facilitates both a ramp down and stairs. To be fair, I didn't totally digest everything, but a few comments based on what I see here...
- For what you're doing, don't use composite decking. Not sure if you were or if you just used this thread as a best fit for your question. There's literally zero advantage, and maybe some disadvantage. It's already indoors, so weather isn't an issue. Composite is harder to work with and more $$. Composite is also more slippery. I could see a world where traction is an issue on a wheelchair ramp. With basic decking, you could apply traction tape and it wouldn't look bad. I think it would look bad to do that on composite.
- For the dimensions of your platform, 2x12's seems overkill unless it helps you with height. I built a 10' span bridge with 2x12's that I can drive big yard equipment across - I don't think you NEED anything that robust, but again, if it helps with your height, then fine. It's just heavier/more expensive. 2x10 or even 2x8's if supported mid-span would be fine.
- Completely agree some type of Tuffblock is a good way to go. I looked at THESE recently that might help and are height adjustable. You could probably just set it all on 6x6 posts notched for the frame too if you wanted to save some $$ too. You don't need to do much true anchoring. It's just load support.
Sorry, your assumption was correct, and thank you for the great feedback. There's no composite component to this project, just piggybacking on top on an old thread, this is a lumber only project.
Since the platform and ramp would be contained entirely within an interior garage, would I be correct to assume pressure treated lumber is only for the decking and other components in contact with the concrete slab (garage floor)? If I do use plastic deck blocks to support the main platform, I think that just leaves the base of the ramp as the only component needing pressure treated lumber, aside from the decking. Or should the elevated sections inside a northern climate garage still be pressure treated? Not much risk of termites, but some small amounts of slush and snow will probably get dragged onto it in the winter months.
I agree with you on the 2x12 overkill. I chose it simply for the reason you hinted at, as the most direct route to my 14" height (2 inch tuffblock offset + 1 inch decking + 11.25). I was originally thinking of using traditional vertical 4x4 posts in the Tuffblock. But the posts would have to be cut so short due to the short profile that it seems like it might not even be worth screwing around with. Would it make more sense just to use two or three horizontal 4x4 / 6x4 / 6x6 posts as skids resting on the cement floor, then attach the framing to the top of the skids using more reasonable 2x10 or 2x8 boards? That should get me to 13.75". Any issue leaving pressure treated posts to rest on the interior concrete slab without elevating it? I'm kind of envisioning that this setup could potentially stick around for 5 to 10 years, but probably not longer than that unless the next owner is also handicapped. I'm sure there must be some kind of anchor 1/4" - 1/2" that the skids / horizontal posts could rest on if I search for it. I'm trying to avoid drilling an anchor into the concrete slab, or at least not doing it immediately.
Maybe if I keep the "2x12s in tuff blocks" setup, I only hang 2x10s or 2x8s on the interior joists?
