Do you hoard credit card points? (2 Viewers)

[matuski]

This is more of a general CC question than a hoarding question but I think you guys will be able to help.  My wife and I have a bunch of credit cards that we've accumulated over the years but we only use a couple each month.  We use a specific card for groceries, a specific card for target, a specific card for online purchases, and a specific card for everything else.  We've had travel cards in the past and other reward cards that we don't use at this time.

But we want to simplify by getting rid of old cards that we no longer use and the question is what's the best way to do that without harming the credit score.  She has a credit score of 830+ and mine is 780+.  Is it OK to get rid of ~10 cards at once?  Or would it be better to spread it out over time and slowly reduce the number of cards we have.  And if we cut down from 20 to 10 cards (or lower), would that drastically change our credit score?  Or, should we be looking at the available credit amount and not reducing that too quickly (or by too much)?

Merge the cards you can from the same bank (Chase, Amex, Citi, etc.) into one card.

 

[Charlie Harper]

This is more of a general CC question than a hoarding question but I think you guys will be able to help.  My wife and I have a bunch of credit cards that we've accumulated over the years but we only use a couple each month.  We use a specific card for groceries, a specific card for target, a specific card for online purchases, and a specific card for everything else.  We've had travel cards in the past and other reward cards that we don't use at this time.

But we want to simplify by getting rid of old cards that we no longer use and the question is what's the best way to do that without harming the credit score.  She has a credit score of 830+ and mine is 780+.  Is it OK to get rid of ~10 cards at once?  Or would it be better to spread it out over time and slowly reduce the number of cards we have.  And if we cut down from 20 to 10 cards (or lower), would that drastically change our credit score?  Or, should we be looking at the available credit amount and not reducing that too quickly (or by too much)?

Definitely don't want to cancel them outright. Your credit score is based on length of history and debt to income ratio.

 

[Buckna]

This is more of a general CC question than a hoarding question but I think you guys will be able to help.  My wife and I have a bunch of credit cards that we've accumulated over the years but we only use a couple each month.  We use a specific card for groceries, a specific card for target, a specific card for online purchases, and a specific card for everything else.  We've had travel cards in the past and other reward cards that we don't use at this time.

But we want to simplify by getting rid of old cards that we no longer use and the question is what's the best way to do that without harming the credit score.  She has a credit score of 830+ and mine is 780+.  Is it OK to get rid of ~10 cards at once?  Or would it be better to spread it out over time and slowly reduce the number of cards we have.  And if we cut down from 20 to 10 cards (or lower), would that drastically change our credit score?  Or, should we be looking at the available credit amount and not reducing that too quickly (or by too much)?

Pull a credit report, in general you will want to keep open the accounts you’ve had the longest as average age of account is a large factor in credit score. You’ll want to look at utilization ratio as well, if you carry balances on some cards and close others with no balance, your credit utilization of your total available credit goes up which will ding your score. You can negate this by combining cards and moving over credit limits with the same issuer (Chase, AMEX, etc.) You will also want to look at fee’s and perks, if a card has no annual fee often there is no reason to close it, just put it in the sock drawer in case of a rainy day but if it’s $100 annual fee a year and you don’t really use any of the perks why keep it around?

Outside of that it somewhat depends on your future plans... going to refinance or take out a loan soon, might want to hold off on closing anything. If not planning on seeking any new credit, closing some may cause a temporary drop that should go back up over time if you’re all good on other credit aspects (don’t carry high balances, always pay off and pay on time, etc.)

 

[-OZ-]

This is more of a general CC question than a hoarding question but I think you guys will be able to help.  My wife and I have a bunch of credit cards that we've accumulated over the years but we only use a couple each month.  We use a specific card for groceries, a specific card for target, a specific card for online purchases, and a specific card for everything else.  We've had travel cards in the past and other reward cards that we don't use at this time.

But we want to simplify by getting rid of old cards that we no longer use and the question is what's the best way to do that without harming the credit score.  She has a credit score of 830+ and mine is 780+.  Is it OK to get rid of ~10 cards at once?  Or would it be better to spread it out over time and slowly reduce the number of cards we have.  And if we cut down from 20 to 10 cards (or lower), would that drastically change our credit score?  Or, should we be looking at the available credit amount and not reducing that too quickly (or by too much)?

First question is what are you planning on the future? If you're looking to get a loan / mortgage, then no. 

You might refi. I closed a few cards at once not expecting to refi (rate was 3.25%) but then was offered a 2.75% refi which we almost lost out on because our score had sunk. We had closed the cards and just financed furniture (0%). It all worked out, but if we had closed that many at once, I'm not sure if it would have knocked us too far down. 

Definitely don't close your longest held accounts. That was another mistake I made. We didn't use it, but I had forgotten that it was my longest held until after I saw the score drop.

Merge the cards you can from the same bank (Chase, Amex, Citi, etc.) into one card.

If the companies do this, it's a great idea. 

 

[brun]

...

But we want to simplify by getting rid of old cards that we no longer use and the question is what's the best way to do that without harming the credit score.  She has a credit score of 830+ and mine is 780+.  Is it OK to get rid of ~10 cards at once?  Or would it be better to spread it out over time and slowly reduce the number of cards we have.  And if we cut down from 20 to 10 cards (or lower), would that drastically change our credit score?  Or, should we be looking at the available credit amount and not reducing that too quickly (or by too much)?

I don't see how closing that many couldn't have an effect. I couldn't conceive of having 20 cards so I can understand wanting to get rid of some. Are they all joint accounts or are some individual?

I'm no expert, but If you're going to do it, you might consider a couple things (these make sense to me anyway).

Close 2 and watch your credit scores. Anything >750 seems to be top tier. So,  with no other changes, if dropping 2 cards lowers your score below 750. When your score builds back up, only drop 1 next time. Keep in mind the cards may remain on your report for a while and you may not see the effect right away.

You might as well use up any rewards on the cards you're going to drop.

Besides fees and usage, consider account age and credit limit when choosing which cards to drop. If you can increase the limits on cards you know you will keep, that could help minimize the effect on your utilization.

Make sure there are no balances on any of the cards.

 

[Terminalxylem]

Definitely don't want to cancel them outright. Your credit score is based on length of history and debt to income ratio.

I'm sure this is the correct answer, especially if intending to take out a loan or open a new account. But how much of a hit would he take, and would it be meaningful with scores that high?

I cut my number of cc in half (from 2 to 1 ) several years ago, and my score barely changed - I hover in the high 700s/low 800s.

 

[culdeus]

The advice here is generally ok.

Credit accounts do not roll off your score until 10 years after the credit line was initiated no matter when you cancel them.  This is a change that took place in the mid 2000s that literally nobody knows about.  So someone that has 20 accounts has a Average Age of Accounts (AAoA) of the 20 accounts aging until the 10 year point and then all the cancelled accounts age off at that point to 0.  

What you want to maintain is your oldest credit line.  If you do NOT have a card that is older than 10 years then just make sure you find your oldest card and keep that active even if you just use it to buy a coke every 6 months at a gas station.

If you trust your parents and they have some ancient credit card you can ask to be put on their account.  This can dramatically raise your AAOA if you hold few cards..

HOWEVER

Your credit score will be affected if you cancel a bunch of cards and you leave yourself with one single card with a low credit limit.

This changes your utilization.   

i.e. I hold 20 cards with a total of about 600k in credit line.  I carry about 3k of revolving personal debt.  My utilization is 3k/600k.  Nothing.

If I cancel 18 of those cards that makes my utilization perhaps 3k/60k.  That's a big jump.  If you put a big purchase on one card, your utilization will spike.

This is the reason people generally think that cancelling cards is bad.  It's because it spikes their utilization.  If you close a bunch of cards you 100% want to ask to raise the credit limit of the ones you do use.  You can also merge all your personal credit lines per bank.  (typically)

Pro Tip

If a credit score snob keep your revolving credit on cards that do not report, like business cards.  The best is the Amex Blue Biz Rewards.  This keeps your util at or near zero.

 

[culdeus]

Seconded.

Keep the oldest single card you have.

Then, merge all the other credit into one card at each separate bank. That way your age of accounts stays the same, the total amount of credit you have access to stays the same, and your utilization stays the same.

For example, if you have a Capitol One Venture card with a $10K line of credit and a Capital One Quicksilver with a $8K line of credit and a Capital One Savor card with $5K of credit call them up and ask to put a $23K line of credit on one card and close the other two. Doesn't have to be the oldest card at Capital One (unless that card is your oldest overall).

It's a small point, but Chase will let you merge CL, but not all banks will.  Capitol One, for example in this situation would pull your credit at all three bureaus causing a temporary credit ding in and of itself.  Chase would not. Amex will let you merge your bank card credit and credit lines, but not each to eachother.

 

[culdeus]

One thing you could do to prevent someone hitting your credit while mixing up credit lines is to lock your reports.  This prevents you from saying yes to a huge disclosure read out to you, and missing the fact that they will hit your report.  

 

[RUSF18]

Believe my anniversary is coming up soon on the Chase Ink Preferred cards I got last year. What's the easiest way to downgrade these cards to ones without a fee for year 2? I assume I'll have to call but is there a script to follow or just ask the CSR about options?

 

[culdeus]

Believe my anniversary is coming up soon on the Chase Ink Preferred cards I got last year. What's the easiest way to downgrade these cards to ones without a fee for year 2? I assume I'll have to call but is there a script to follow or just ask the CSR about options?

You must call in.  Yes.  My suggestion is change to ink cash.  They won't give you a hard time just ask for it. 

 

[Buckna]

You must call in.  Yes.  My suggestion is change to ink cash.  They won't give you a hard time just ask for it. 

What are you focusing on with Chase Biz apps basically shut down for sole proprietor? Maxing category spend? Although I assume you are above 5/24 by quite a bit anyway.

Was just getting into the original flowchart earlier this year when Chase pulled the plug on easy to obtain business cards plus now waiting on a house refi to close in a week. May focus on United next with their elevated bonus even though I am flush with SW points and a CP I can’t use ATM. I’d rather focus on cash back, but my BIL and his kids is going to be stationed in Hawaii for a few years so thinking of hitting more airline miles for future Hawaii trips.

 

[culdeus]

What are you focusing on with Chase Biz apps basically shut down for sole proprietor? Maxing category spend? Although I assume you are above 5/24 by quite a bit anyway.

Was just getting into the original flowchart earlier this year when Chase pulled the plug on easy to obtain business cards plus now waiting on a house refi to close in a week. May focus on United next with their elevated bonus even though I am flush with SW points and a CP I can’t use ATM. I’d rather focus on cash back, but my BIL and his kids is going to be stationed in Hawaii for a few years so thinking of hitting more airline miles for future Hawaii trips.

tbh, I have just said #### it for now.  I had a massive two week redemption planned this summer that all came back so my point balances are all rich.  I'm also trying to re-fi the house so I need my inquiries to calm down.    

When the mort. process is over I'll look at the landscape and jump back in, but for the moment it's tough.

 

[Trey]

Looks like there’s an 80k Sapphire Preferred bonus out there now which is a pretty nice number. 

 

[culdeus]

Looks like there’s an 80k Sapphire Preferred bonus out there now which is a pretty nice number. 

Yeah, it is.  I would still try to MDD this offer as it's a 1 in 48 month offer sheet.

 

[Redwes25]

Looks like there’s an 80k Sapphire Preferred bonus out there now which is a pretty nice number. 

Anyone who doesn’t have a Sapphire and is eligible should jump on this. 

 

[SouthJersey]

Yeah, it is.  I would still try to MDD this offer as it's a 1 in 48 month offer sheet.

What is MDD?

Also how strict is the 1 in 48mo?

 

[culdeus]

What is MDD?

Also how strict is the 1 in 48mo?

Apply for this and the next day apply for the reserve.  

They are extremely strict. The reality is it's more or less a 52 month rule. 

 

[Buckna]

What is MDD?

Also how strict is the 1 in 48mo?

Extremely strict as already said. Not eligible for another until 48mo’s after earning the previous bonus, not after getting the card.

 

[-OZ-]

Is anyone doing the x1 card?

https://techcrunch.com/2020/09/17/x1-card-is-a-credit-card-based-on-your-income-not-your-credit-score/amp/

I don't care about the limits or borrowing, but 3x points could be nice. Depending of course, on how much the points are worth.

 

[Redwes25]

Is anyone doing the x1 card?

https://techcrunch.com/2020/09/17/x1-card-is-a-credit-card-based-on-your-income-not-your-credit-score/amp/

I don't care about the limits or borrowing, but 3x points could be nice. Depending of course, on how much the points are worth.

Honestly, if in the points game stick to Chase and pay attention to 5/24 rule.  

 

[bcat01]

Extremely strict as already said. Not eligible for another until 48mo’s after earning the previous bonus, not after getting the card.

How can you tell if you qualify for bonus?  I had the card in the past, but never wrote down the dates.

 

[-OZ-]

Honestly, if in the points game stick to Chase and pay attention to 5/24 rule.  

I'll churn maybe one or two cards a year.  Between the category cash back cards and my default card (2.5% cash back), the hassle of churning hasn't really been worth it for more than that.

 

[Redwes25]

I'll churn maybe one or two cards a year.  Between the category cash back cards and my default card (2.5% cash back), the hassle of churning hasn't really been worth it for more than that.

Yup, I don't churn much but have found Chase to be the most valuable cards as well.  With improvements in Saphire Reserve and then tieing to with Freedom and Freedom unlimited you can do pretty good on it.  Only minor grip is I would love if Freedom unlimited were 2x points but even with that if you transfer to Reserve and use for travel (when that opens up) you get over 2x points on value.  

ETA - Also, found vague statements about getting points useless.  No idea what this cards points are worth.  At leaset with Chase, Amex, etc. you know what you are getting.  

 

[-OZ-]

Went to close two accounts, wells fargo and a chase account. Closed WF, but while on the phone I realized the chase account is by far my longest held account. I don't use it ever, but with it being open in 2004, and my next oldest being 2016, I figure it's better to keep it open and just not use it.

 

[Buckna]

How can you tell if you qualify for bonus?  I had the card in the past, but never wrote down the dates.

Should be able to see your account history on your chase login even for terminated cards and check the old statements I believe.

 

[DA RAIDERS]

Went to close two accounts, wells fargo and a chase account. Closed WF, but while on the phone I realized the chase account is by far my longest held account. I don't use it ever, but with it being open in 2004, and my next oldest being 2016, I figure it's better to keep it open and just not use it.

correct

 

[Redwes25]

Went to close two accounts, wells fargo and a chase account. Closed WF, but while on the phone I realized the chase account is by far my longest held account. I don't use it ever, but with it being open in 2004, and my next oldest being 2016, I figure it's better to keep it open and just not use it.

This is the right play.  I note that you can typically change an account without it being closed.  You wouldn't be eligible for any bonuses for account you changed to but if the current account has a fee you could try downgrading it to a no fee card so keep benefit of being open but not cost you anything.  Just be very clear on the phone that you don't want it closed but account changed.  You can explain why you are doing it on the phone as you don't want to ding your credit and the rep will usually get it.  

 

[-OZ-]

This is the right play.  I note that you can typically change an account without it being closed.  You wouldn't be eligible for any bonuses for account you changed to but if the current account has a fee you could try downgrading it to a no fee card so keep benefit of being open but not cost you anything.  Just be very clear on the phone that you don't want it closed but account changed.  You can explain why you are doing it on the phone as you don't want to ding your credit and the rep will usually get it.  

I've only had two cards with annual fees. Closed one 11 months after getting the bonus. The other is $95, AMEX blue with 6% back on groceries. That one is worth the price for a family of 7.

 

[culdeus]

I've only had two cards with annual fees. Closed one 11 months after getting the bonus. The other is $95, AMEX blue with 6% back on groceries. That one is worth the price for a family of 7.

You do realize there is a cap on this?  After the fee you pocket about $250 if you max it out.   What I do with this is max out the 6k at Kroger usually on Amazon GC as it's hard if not impossible to get any decent payback from Amazon. 

 

[-OZ-]

You do realize there is a cap on this?  After the fee you pocket about $250 if you max it out.   What I do with this is max out the 6k at Kroger usually on Amazon GC as it's hard if not impossible to get any decent payback from Amazon. 

Yeah, we average around $500 / month in grocery (not including Walmart). So it works out fairly well. I get that you can churn to get better annual payback. You do raise a fair point, the max benefit vs just using the default card with 2.5% cash back is only $150 for the year. I still think it's worth it but if we wanted to simplify things it could go. 

For Amazon, we're prime members so the card gets 5% back (I wouldn't upgrade to prime just for the reward but we use it often enough plus the music and TV that comes with it makes it worth it for us). 

 

[jm192]

I've wanted to Chase Ink Unlimited for years but was just too lazy to apply for it.  Now With biz apps being stricter, I'm probably just going to go for the Chase Freedom unlimited.

I've got the Sapphire Reserve, Freedom, and Ink Cash.  I've also got a Capitol one Quick Silver that I've had forever that I hold onto just because it's an old account.  My monthly gym fee goes on it.

 

[jm192]

Anyone getting any new cards?  

The freedom flex seems really good with the 3% on dining and 3% back on drug stores on top of the rotating 5% categories.  

 

[culdeus]

Anyone getting any new cards?  

The freedom flex seems really good with the 3% on dining and 3% back on drug stores on top of the rotating 5% categories.  

Been trying to get my refi done.  Killing my apps. 

 

[[icon]]

Sooo I have 125k chase ultimate rewards points On a sapphire reserve. Was planning on using them before the 1 year was up and NOT paying the $500 renewal. Sadly with covid that's not an option.

Has anyone had luck playing the COVID card to get a discounted renewal due to not getting to use travel features of a travel card for most of the year? I'd rather not downgrade to 1.25x redemption bonus with Sapphire Preferred but not sure I can justify the damn ~$500 again. 

 

[McBokonon]

Anyone getting any new cards?  

The freedom flex seems really good with the 3% on dining and 3% back on drug stores on top of the rotating 5% categories.  

I just applied for this, should arrive soon. I had been accumulating AMEX MR but am pivoting to cash back because I don’t see myself traveling or dining out much for at least a year. Pairing it with Discover IT and PayPal MC 2% (Cap1 QS for Costco - don’t want the Citi card). Should be able to hit 5% pretty often.

 

[culdeus]

Sooo I have 125k chase ultimate rewards points On a sapphire reserve. Was planning on using them before the 1 year was up and NOT paying the $500 renewal. Sadly with covid that's not an option.

Has anyone had luck playing the COVID card to get a discounted renewal due to not getting to use travel features of a travel card for most of the year? I'd rather not downgrade to 1.25x redemption bonus with Sapphire Preferred but not sure I can justify the damn ~$500 again. 

UR points are easier than ever to redeem.  You can dump them on groceries and dining.

 

[[icon]]

UR points are easier than ever to redeem.  You can dump them on groceries and dining.

I'm aware... amazon too. However the max value is when redeeming for travel at 1.5x multiplier (CSR), from what I understand. 

Just wondering if anyone has had luck negotiating a discounted renewal / extension due to COVID impacting benefits of a travel card. 

 

[culdeus]

I'm aware... amazon too. However the max value is when redeeming for travel at 1.5x multiplier (CSR), from what I understand. 

Just wondering if anyone has had luck negotiating a discounted renewal / extension due to COVID impacting benefits of a travel card. 

They are not typically generous with retention offers, and the 1.5x is as high as you can do.  I mean you can get higher value on OTW premium cabins but to me that's more of an aspirational redemption than a practical one.  Amex is being a little more generous than the others.  But for the most part these issuers want to shed credit lines.

 

[Ron Swanson]

Sooo I have 125k chase ultimate rewards points On a sapphire reserve. Was planning on using them before the 1 year was up and NOT paying the $500 renewal. Sadly with covid that's not an option.

Has anyone had luck playing the COVID card to get a discounted renewal due to not getting to use travel features of a travel card for most of the year? I'd rather not downgrade to 1.25x redemption bonus with Sapphire Preferred but not sure I can justify the damn ~$500 again. 

I am in this same scenario.  Have a 3 week trip booked for Hawaii in December.  If that happens I can use them easily. Going to be interesting to see what we do with that trip. Even if it's open as it is now I'm not sure I want to do the trip and I'm not sure I want to do it and stay in their "resort bubble".  I'm more of a wanderer.

 

[Ron Swanson]

And I'm not entirely convinced the 1.5x multiplier is worth much. I can frequently book the same travel far cheaper directly with the hotel or car rental than I can through the UR portal, even with the 1.5x multiplier.

 

[[icon]]

And I'm not entirely convinced the 1.5x multiplier is worth much. I can frequently book the same travel far cheaper directly with the hotel or car rental than I can through the UR portal, even with the 1.5x multiplier.

This is what I guess I was wondering... is this everyone's experience? Hrmmm... 

 

[Instinctive]

This is what I guess I was wondering... is this everyone's experience? Hrmmm... 

I have found the most valuable use by far to e transferring out to airline partners for 1st class international flights at award rates. e.g., Delta One SF to Tokyo by transferring UR to Virgin Atlantic and doing the partner rate.

It can get convoluted, but that's been consistently the best use for me and my wife.

 

[Buckna]

Sooo I have 125k chase ultimate rewards points On a sapphire reserve. Was planning on using them before the 1 year was up and NOT paying the $500 renewal. Sadly with covid that's not an option.

Has anyone had luck playing the COVID card to get a discounted renewal due to not getting to use travel features of a travel card for most of the year? I'd rather not downgrade to 1.25x redemption bonus with Sapphire Preferred but not sure I can justify the damn ~$500 again. 

When’s the renewal date? They’ve temporarily lowered the renewal fee to $450 thru the end of the year. The Pay Yourself Back feature was just leaked yesterday to be extended to April 30th. Plus the $300 travel credit temporarily can be put towards gas and groceries bringing the effective fee to just $150.

 

[Buckna]

Anyone getting any new cards?  

The freedom flex seems really good with the 3% on dining and 3% back on drug stores on top of the rotating 5% categories.  

My refi finally closed Thursday but didn’t fund until yesterday. Just trying to decide what to get next, United cards are elevated another day or two but leaning heavily towards a modified double dip of the Sapphire Preferred and Reserve since Preferred has the elevated bonus and PYB has been confirmed to be extended. Just not 100% I can hit 8k spend in 3 months as my organic spend is much lower than normal right now. Trying to see if the in-laws will let me put their large vet bill for a surgery coming up on a card.

 

[[icon]]

When’s the renewal date? They’ve temporarily lowered the renewal fee to $450 thru the end of the year. The Pay Yourself Back feature was just leaked yesterday to be extended to April 30th. Plus the $300 travel credit temporarily can be put towards gas and groceries bringing the effective fee to just $150.

NICE! 

What's the pay yourself back feature? 

I'll spend the $300 in travel but who knows when that will be. The ability to apply to gas and groceries makes it near instant. Is that automated? 

$150 is absolutely palatable for this card. Thanks! 

 

[culdeus]

And I'm not entirely convinced the 1.5x multiplier is worth much. I can frequently book the same travel far cheaper directly with the hotel or car rental than I can through the UR portal, even with the 1.5x multiplier.

Yeah, redemptions are going to vary in quality.  Transfer partners, and cash out value need to be taken into account.  The UR portal has taken quite a hair cut in recent times.  The value simply booking hotels there is probably the last resort use.  

Often times simply paying cash is the way forward to earn more points.  

For me MR in general are better for day to day spend, and cashing out to Schwab is very viable.  UR now is more or less a niche earner, but there are areas where it has benefits Hyatt being one of the key ones IMO.

 

[Buckna]

NICE! 

What's the pay yourself back feature? 

I'll spend the $300 in travel but who knows when that will be. The ability to apply to gas and groceries makes it near instant. Is that automated? 

$150 is absolutely palatable for this card. Thanks! 

New feature over the summer. You can apply your points at a rate of 1.5 cents per point “to pay yourself back” for things like groceries. So if you have a $75 grocery bill, you can use 5,000 points to pay that instead of cash. Same redemption rate as their travel portal at 1.5, but much more flexible and nobodies booking travel right now anyway. The big churners are loving this, throw in a gift card or two everytime you grocery shop and you can cash out a lot of points.

If your renewal date is this year, I believe the $300 travel credit resets with your Cardmember anniversary. In theory you could use the credit and then cancel and get a refund on the annual fee. Culdeus or some of the others can probably confirm or correct any details I have may not have quite right.

 

[culdeus]

New feature over the summer. You can apply your points at a rate of 1.5 cents per point “to pay yourself back” for things like groceries. So if you have a $75 grocery bill, you can use 5,000 points to pay that instead of cash. Same redemption rate as their travel portal at 1.5, but much more flexible and nobodies booking travel right now anyway. The big churners are loving this, throw in a gift card or two everytime you grocery shop and you can cash out a lot of points.

If your renewal date is this year, I believe the $300 travel credit resets with your Cardmember anniversary. In theory you could use the credit and then cancel and get a refund on the annual fee. Culdeus or some of the others can probably confirm or correct any details I have may not have quite right.

Yeah, you can re-dip the travel credit on the way out.

 

[jm192]

Anybody gotten anything recently?

I got the Chase Freedom unlimited yesterday.  I've got the Chase Sapphire Reserve, Chase Freedom, and Chase Ink Cash.   I wanted the Chase Ink Unlimited, but decided against it for now.

Two years ago when I got the Ink cash, I had something I could argue was a business.  I bought and sold trading cards.  Sports, Magic the Gathering, Pokemon, etc.  The ink cash is also a lot more interesting because of the 5x back on Cable/Internet and streaming.  It also gives some excellent MS opportunities by way of buying gift cards at staples/office max.  The Ink Unlimited simply has the good signup bonus.  

The CFU having the 5x back on Groceries for a year is a huge win.  We spend a decent bit of money at CVS and Walgreens, so 3x back on that is very nice as well.  I don't consider myself a "churner."  I don't want to get a bunch of bonuses and throw a card in a sock drawer.  I enjoy having cards that I use that get cash back.  the 1.5x will increase those 1x back purchases, so it's a nice small addition.