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I Need a Bike - paging proninja (1 Viewer)

mr roboto

Footballguy
I need a bike. Not a cheap Walmart bike. Not a 'take out a second mortgage and buy spandex riding suit and chase other spandex wearing men around at 5am' bike. A normal, quality bike that can be used for light trail riding but mostly around town/paved/gravel/grass etc. 

 
Need, no.  Want, likely.  Single speeds are fun once or twice - but can turn into a real pain in the butt.
Can you unpack this?

So I had a bike with gears, and I never used them.  This is in NYC by the way, where the hills are disguised as speed bumps.  I'm always using it mostly to exercise, so I always had it on the hardest (lowest?) gears.  

 
Can you unpack this?

So I had a bike with gears, and I never used them.  This is in NYC by the way, where the hills are disguised as speed bumps.  I'm always using it mostly to exercise, so I always had it on the hardest (lowest?) gears.  
Sure.  I'm thinking about getting a single speed mountain bike myself.  It will be my 3rd mountain bike, though (first is a Trek Stach, a "Swiss army knife" type mountain bike; second is a carbon fiber full suspension Pivot geared 1x10).  If you're only going to own one bike, I wouldn't make it a single speed personally.

You can do the "in between", and what I'm doing with my mountain bikes listed above - only have one gear on your crank (where your pedals are).  You can still have 8,9, or 10 in the rear - but only having 1 up front means less weight, less stuff to break, and one less shifter on your bars.

 
You can do the "in between", and what I'm doing with my mountain bikes listed above - only have one gear on your crank (where your pedals are).  You can still have 8,9, or 10 in the rear - but only having 1 up front means less weight, less stuff to break, and one less shifter on your bars.
This sounds like what I want, but I dunno what this is, or looks like.

 
proninja said:
When you say "light trail riding" what do you mean? Singletrack? Packed dirt? Forest service road?
Packed dirt, light gravel. Groomed, intentional bike trails. Nothing mountainous or crazy. 

 
I live in the Twin Cities. We have paved and packed trails everywhere. That's what I want to do more of - get places on bike vs car like the store, coffee shop, restaurants etc. 

 
Sure.  I'm thinking about getting a single speed mountain bike myself.  It will be my 3rd mountain bike, though (first is a Trek Stach, a "Swiss army knife" type mountain bike; second is a carbon fiber full suspension Pivot geared 1x10).  If you're only going to own one bike, I wouldn't make it a single speed personally.

You can do the "in between", and what I'm doing with my mountain bikes listed above - only have one gear on your crank (where your pedals are).  You can still have 8,9, or 10 in the rear - but only having 1 up front means less weight, less stuff to break, and one less shifter on your bars.
NTTAWWT

 
This sounds like what I want, but I dunno what this is, or looks like.
It's simply called a 1x or "one by".  The number of "gears" a bike has is found by multiplying the ones you have up front by the ones you have in the rear.  A "21 speed" has 3 up front, and 7 in the rear.  The issue is that a lot of those gear ratios either overlap, or are actually identical. 

Any bike shop, or a decent DIY guy can make any recent bike into a 1x.  I did it for both of my current mountain bikes.  Just remove all but the one gear you want up front - remove the front derailleur and shifter, and you're done.  I shaved about 3/4ers of a pound off both of my bikes when I did it, and made them much more enjoyable to ride.  I have a 30 tooth gear on one, 32 tooth on the other.

 
I mean that really got out of hand fast!

What's your budget?  For around $600, you can get a Trek 8.3 DS.  For you $200 more you can get the 8.4, with an upgraded drive-train, hydraulic brakes, upgraded rims, and a pretty nice all black paint scheme. 
This is still WAAAY more bike then most people "need", but mattyl is right. Find out where they sell Treks, add or subtract $150-200, depending on what you "need".

Most bike shops are interested in selling you what you need, not ripping you off.

 
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Any decent suggestions for a less than $500 bike? Primarily used by a college student to get around a large campus, but possibly used for some paved trails as well?

 
A cyclocross bike is another all-around option.  They're generally lighter than mountain bikes and don't have suspension forks that I would lock out 90+% of the time anyway.  They're a little more rugged than a typical road bike and can accommodate wider tires when riding on trails.  I'm old and live in a city with lots of hills so I like the wider rear gears that most cross bikes are equipped with.

 
Any decent suggestions for a less than $500 bike? Primarily used by a college student to get around a large campus, but possibly used for some paved trails as well?
Buy the cheapest trek bike you can afford. It will still be the best bike you've ever owned. That sits in your garage over the next 15 years.

 
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Any decent suggestions for a less than $500 bike? Primarily used by a college student to get around a large campus, but possibly used for some paved trails as well?
If it's going to be parked outdoors most of the time, I'd go for a beater off Craigslist.

 
Honestly, the best "deals" I've ever gotten on bikes have been buying second hand.  Crazy mountain bike guys (like myself) buy a bike every other year and sell the old one for pennies on the dollar.  My latest purchase was an all carbon, full suspension 29er - built up over $5k, and I got it for less than $2k when it was two years old.

If just going from point A to point B on a campus or small town, any well cared for used bike only a few years old by a reputable company will do just fine for you.

 
Honestly, the best "deals" I've ever gotten on bikes have been buying second hand.  Crazy mountain bike guys (like myself) buy a bike every other year and sell the old one for pennies on the dollar.  My latest purchase was an all carbon, full suspension 29er - built up over $5k, and I got it for less than $2k when it was two years old.

If just going from point A to point B on a campus or small town, any well cared for used bike only a few years old by a reputable company will do just fine for you.
Why?

 
It's a disease.  I'm also out on my bike 2-4 times a week, going over extremely hilly/rocky terrain.  Parts wear out and break over time, and new technologies are always coming along.  A few years ago 29 inch tires weren't around, nor were "fat bikes", nor was a 10 speed cassette (much less the new 11 speed stuff).  And you want to one up your buddies.

 
It's a disease.  I'm also out on my bike 2-4 times a week, going over extremely hilly/rocky terrain.  Parts wear out and break over time, and new technologies are always coming along.  A few years ago 29 inch tires weren't around, nor were "fat bikes", nor was a 10 speed cassette (much less the new 11 speed stuff).  And you want to one up your buddies.
There is a part in that reply between the " are always coming along" and the "And you want to one up" where I have no idea what the hell you are talking about.

 
Same as buying anything used vs. new.  Owners are often interested more in getting rid of their old bike because they've bought something new or are moving.  It's easier to check condition of a second hand bike than something like a car (especially since I know next to nothing about cars).  It does help if you're able to do basic bike repairs but even if you have to go to a bike shop for a tune-up, you're still ahead.

The only problem is having to scour through pages of Craigslist listings with kids bikes, fixies, three-wheelers, etc. until you find something you like in the right size.

 
There is a part in that reply between the " are always coming along" and the "And you want to one up" where I have no idea what the hell you are talking about.
Just listing some of the new technologies available in mountain biking today that weren't available just a few years ago.

 
Same as buying anything used vs. new.  Owners are often interested more in getting rid of their old bike because they've bought something new or are moving.  It's easier to check condition of a second hand bike than something like a car (especially since I know next to nothing about cars).  It does help if you're able to do basic bike repairs but even if you have to go to a bike shop for a tune-up, you're still ahead.

The only problem is having to scour through pages of Craigslist listings with kids bikes, fixies, three-wheelers, etc. until you find something you like in the right size.
No, my "why" was solely on the "buy a bike every other year" part.

 
No, my "why" was solely on the "buy a bike every other year" part.
Also, and I'm sure this will sound dumb - but I never (or at least haven't yet) bought two bikes that do the same thing. 

My first "real bike" was a few years ago - a Specialized Allez Pro road bike.  Aluminum frame, decent components, very fast wheels.  So I had the "road bike" box checked off.

Then I got my first "real" mountain bike.  A 29er (wheel size) hardtail (no suspension in the rear) - Trek Stache.  It's a "Swiss Army knife" of mountain bikes.  Can do trail, cross-country, and even downhill if I were ever inclined to.  My next mountain bike was a full suspension, still 29er, and carbon.  Next, I may build a single speed (no gears) just to give it a try.  AFter that, I'll likely want a cyclocross bike as my son will be of bike riding age, and I'll want something that does roads better than any of my mountain bikes. 

Bikes are a lot like athletic shoes.  From tennis shoes to football cleats, each does something very specific - and quite literally can't do other things. 

 
Also, and I'm sure this will sound dumb - but I never (or at least haven't yet) bought two bikes that do the same thing. 

My first "real bike" was a few years ago - a Specialized Allez Pro road bike.  Aluminum frame, decent components, very fast wheels.  So I had the "road bike" box checked off.

Then I got my first "real" mountain bike.  A 29er (wheel size) hardtail (no suspension in the rear) - Trek Stache.  It's a "Swiss Army knife" of mountain bikes.  Can do trail, cross-country, and even downhill if I were ever inclined to.  My next mountain bike was a full suspension, still 29er, and carbon.  Next, I may build a single speed (no gears) just to give it a try.  AFter that, I'll likely want a cyclocross bike as my son will be of bike riding age, and I'll want something that does roads better than any of my mountain bikes. 

Bikes are a lot like athletic shoes.  From tennis shoes to football cleats, each does something very specific - and quite literally can't do other things. 
So....

You are kinda, sorta, a little bit somewhat in to doing the bike thing?

 
No, my "why" was solely on the "buy a bike every other year" part.
Because carbon wears out/breaks.  

BTW...Buying non-carbon off craigslist is fine, but I wouldn't mess around buying anything carbon off of there unless you really know what you are doing or buying on ebay from a reputable second hand dealer/reseller.  Carbon cracks a lot, so unless you know what to look for, you're probably going to end up buying a lemon.

Any of the $500 Specialized/Treks/etc. are fine for city trail bikes and you need to put down $1000 for an entry level road.  .  I wouldn't go much below that price point though, these days. 

 
I'd like to pick up a bike similar to the OP.  Spend a couple hundred for mainly path, trail riding maybe 2x per week.  Are we better off going to a bike shop and buying used, or off Craigslist?  And are there brands that are quality no matter what (like Trek apparently).

 
I'd like to pick up a bike similar to the OP.  Spend a couple hundred for mainly path, trail riding maybe 2x per week.  Are we better off going to a bike shop and buying used, or off Craigslist?  And are there brands that are quality no matter what (like Trek apparently).
All the major frame companies are fine (Specialized, Trek, Giant, Jamis, Scott, etc) for entry level aluminum frames.  Frankly, they're all made in the same factory anyway. 

All these frames are basically worthless (same with the wheels), so you're really buying the components.  If you are buying second-hand make sure they aren't rusty, aren't worn out, aren't otherwise compromised (ie the break works and the wheels are true).  More than anything when you buy a new bike, you know the components are good and won't need replacing since at that price point, replacing everything thing is basically the cost of a new bike anyway. 

 
All the major frame companies are fine (Specialized, Trek, Giant, Jamis, Scott, etc) for entry level aluminum frames.  Frankly, they're all made in the same factory anyway. 

All these frames are basically worthless (same with the wheels), so you're really buying the components.  If you are buying second-hand make sure they aren't rusty, aren't worn out, aren't otherwise compromised (ie the break works and the wheels are true).  More than anything when you buy a new bike, you know the components are good and won't need replacing since at that price point, replacing everything thing is basically the cost of a new bike anyway. 
Most new bikes in the $200-$1000 price range will come with Shimano components.  Shimano produces about a half dozen different groupset ranges for road and mountain bikes.  Dura-Ace is at the top but they seem to change the model names at the bottom.  New features tend to work their way down, e.g. what was in last year's Ultegra may be in next year's 105.

The differences as you go up the hierarchy are pretty minor, e.g. a gram or two in weight, slightly smoother shifting, a clutch.  You can mix and match components from different Shimano ranges or even other manufacturers.   I run a road front derailleur and a MTB rear and it shifts just fine.  But when you shop, the difference between a bike kitted out with Sora vs Ultegra components can be hundreds of dollars.

 
I second this if you're going new.   I've never bought anything from them, but the people that I ride with that have had good things to say.   
They ship partially assembled.  I've watched videos of customer final assembly of Internet bikes and it doesn't look particularly difficult but you could probably find a local bikeshop who'll handle that plus adjustments.

 

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