Need opinion from skilled architect or structural engineer. Help! (1 Viewer)

[skycriesmary]

I'm cutting out some the floor of the second level of my garage for an ADU addition, and am removing part of several of the joists. I'm assuming I can fortify this with some 2x8's, as does my architect, but he's not 100%.

Please see drawings here, for existing layout, and proposed.

TIA for your assistance, I really don't want to have to hire another middleman for what could be a very straight forward answer.

 

[skycriesmary]

Shameless bump before it gets buried over the weekend...

 

[SWC]

brohan without knowing how you are going to carry new load points down and whatnot anyone trying to answer this in the blind is sort of crazy and you would be crrazy to rely on anything from here man you are building on your house and changing up the framing do the right thing and have a engineer review it cripes if it falls down or starts to bow or someone gets hurt later on you will regret it forever just get it reviewed spend the bucks and do it right you live there take that to the bank brohans

 

[fred_1_15301]

brohan without knowing how you are going to carry new load points down and whatnot anyone trying to answer this in the blind is sort of crazy and you would be crrazy to rely on anything from here man you are building on your house and changing up the framing do the right thing and have a engineer review it cripes if it falls down or starts to bow or someone gets hurt later on you will regret it forever just get it reviewed spend the bucks and do it right you live there take that to the bank brohans

Yeah what this guy said

 

[johnnycakes]

Holy crap did you ever come to the right place, at just the right time to get some competent, informed opinions based on solid education and years of experience!

 

[fred_1_15301]

Holy crap did you ever come to the right place, at just the right time to get some competent, informed opinions based on solid education and years of experience!

at least we are keeping it bumped for him

 

[nirad3]

Your architect isn't 100% sure? Who the f is your architect? Did he just stay at a Holiday Inn Express last night?

If he's an actual architect he should either a] know himself or b] have a competent structural engineer he could call up for verification.

 

[skycriesmary]

Ok, I get the point. I think that's the problem. My architects are a bit green it seems, and I've already signed the contract. They have advised to have a structural engineer take a look, but the guy who was recommended wanted $1,200. :X

We're talking about a small ADU project in my garage, not my main house. I'd like to hire an structural engineer or architect who has enough experience to problem solve this at an hourly rate instead of attempting to ream me.

That being said, if anyone who is licensed, i.e. knows thier ####, wants to take this question on for an hourly rate, send me a PM with your contact info.

 

[Binky The Doormat]

"skilled"? or just at one time licensed?

 

[skycriesmary]

"skilled"? or just at one time licensed?

Either, as long as it's enough to make it a safe place, I'm good. Oh yeah, and to pass permits.

 

[DaVinci]

4 2x8s sounds like plenty of overdesign. An engineer might run the calculations and cut that down to 2 or 3, but the cost of the extra wood is a lot cheaper than the engineer's fee. What's the purpose of the second opening in the floor?

 

[Fennis]

Unskilled architect checking in.... you're good.

 

[AAABatteries]

Make sure you get enough ball bearings.

 

[Officer Pete Malloy]

Your architect isn't 100% sure? Who the f is your architect?

LINK

 

[skycriesmary]

4 2x8s sounds like plenty of overdesign. An engineer might run the calculations and cut that down to 2 or 3, but the cost of the extra wood is a lot cheaper than the engineer's fee. What's the purpose of the second opening in the floor?

Just to equalize the space on the second floor, for aesthetics, and to also have good airflow. Thanks for the input, I'll be looking for a local engineer to chime in, just thought their might be a FBG with words of wisdom by looking at the schematic. What I've gleamed is I haven't provided enough information for a rational answer.

 

[DaVinci]

4 2x8s sounds like plenty of overdesign. An engineer might run the calculations and cut that down to 2 or 3, but the cost of the extra wood is a lot cheaper than the engineer's fee. What's the purpose of the second opening in the floor?

Just to equalize the space on the second floor, for aesthetics, and to also have good airflow. Thanks for the input, I'll be looking for a local engineer to chime in, just thought their might be a FBG with words of wisdom by looking at the schematic. What I've gleamed is I haven't provided enough information for a rational answer.

Airflow from the garage into a living space? Maybe I'm misunderstanding what you're trying to do.

Keep in mind that if you are asking for an engineer to certify that the design is adequate, you aren't paying for the time it takes to run the calculation, you're paying for the liability. That's why the other guy quoted $1200.

 

[3C's]

Unskilled architect checking in.... you're good.

unskilled non-architect checking in, I agree with this guy.

 

[Sabertooth]

House flipper here. Run it!

 

[El Floppo]

I think you... wait.... "skilled"? ...

 

[El Floppo]

4 2x8s sounds like plenty of overdesign. An engineer might run the calculations and cut that down to 2 or 3, but the cost of the extra wood is a lot cheaper than the engineer's fee. What's the purpose of the second opening in the floor?

Just to equalize the space on the second floor, for aesthetics, and to also have good airflow. Thanks for the input, I'll be looking for a local engineer to chime in, just thought their might be a FBG with words of wisdom by looking at the schematic. What I've gleamed is I haven't provided enough information for a rational answer.

Airflow from the garage into a living space? Maybe I'm misunderstanding what you're trying to do.

Keep in mind that if you are asking for an engineer to certify that the design is adequate, you aren't paying for the time it takes to run the calculation, you're paying for the liability. That's why the other guy quoted $1200.

Airflow... you know, to get all that good air from the garage flowing up into the ADU.

Yeah- I"m not understanding this either... fire rating, how?

 

[Mile High]

4 2x8s sounds like plenty of overdesign. An engineer might run the calculations and cut that down to 2 or 3, but the cost of the extra wood is a lot cheaper than the engineer's fee. What's the purpose of the second opening in the floor?

Just to equalize the space on the second floor, for aesthetics, and to also have good airflow. Thanks for the input, I'll be looking for a local engineer to chime in, just thought their might be a FBG with words of wisdom by looking at the schematic. What I've gleamed is I haven't provided enough information for a rational answer.

Airflow from the garage into a living space? Maybe I'm misunderstanding what you're trying to do.Keep in mind that if you are asking for an engineer to certify that the design is adequate, you aren't paying for the time it takes to run the calculation, you're paying for the liability. That's why the other guy quoted $1200.

Airflow... you know, to get all that good air from the garage flowing up into the ADU.

Yeah- I"m not understanding this either... fire rating, how?

I don't get the airflow either. Opening the windows seems better then losing floor space and the extra cost.

 

[msommer]

Maybe it's a DIY fire station. Or he is installing the worlds tallest stripper pole.

 

[ChiefD]

Ok, I get the point. I think that's the problem. My architects are a bit green it seems, and I've already signed the contract. They have advised to have a structural engineer take a look, but the guy who was recommended wanted $1,200. :X

We're talking about a small ADU project in my garage, not my main house. I'd like to hire an structural engineer or architect who has enough experience to problem solve this at an hourly rate instead of attempting to ream me.

That being said, if anyone who is licensed, i.e. knows thier ####, wants to take this question on for an hourly rate, send me a PM with your contact info.

First off, fire your architect for breach of contract for being a dumb-###.

Next, you don't need the additional opening, especially if this is going to be a dwelling that someone is going to live in.

Next, that opening you are creating is about a 1/3 of the load those ceiling joist will be supporting, since they will be supporting the floor now. So you need to make sure those joists are big enough to begin with to support the new load, AND since you are cutting them to make room for the new staircase, you need to make sure that beam you are creating is big enough to transfer that load. You are probably talking an engineered beam here.

Call someone who knows what the hell they are doing.

 

[skycriesmary]

4 2x8s sounds like plenty of overdesign. An engineer might run the calculations and cut that down to 2 or 3, but the cost of the extra wood is a lot cheaper than the engineer's fee. What's the purpose of the second opening in the floor?

Just to equalize the space on the second floor, for aesthetics, and to also have good airflow. Thanks for the input, I'll be looking for a local engineer to chime in, just thought their might be a FBG with words of wisdom by looking at the schematic. What I've gleamed is I haven't provided enough information for a rational answer.

Airflow from the garage into a living space? Maybe I'm misunderstanding what you're trying to do.

Keep in mind that if you are asking for an engineer to certify that the design is adequate, you aren't paying for the time it takes to run the calculation, you're paying for the liability. That's why the other guy quoted $1200.

I'm turning my garage into a full Additional Dwelling Unit. As such, it will have a kitchen, bathroom, and living space on level one, and a bedroom on level two.

 

[skycriesmary]

Ok, I get the point. I think that's the problem. My architects are a bit green it seems, and I've already signed the contract. They have advised to have a structural engineer take a look, but the guy who was recommended wanted $1,200. :X

We're talking about a small ADU project in my garage, not my main house. I'd like to hire an structural engineer or architect who has enough experience to problem solve this at an hourly rate instead of attempting to ream me.

That being said, if anyone who is licensed, i.e. knows thier ####, wants to take this question on for an hourly rate, send me a PM with your contact info.

First off, fire your architect for breach of contract for being a dumb-###.

Next, you don't need the additional opening, especially if this is going to be a dwelling that someone is going to live in.

Next, that opening you are creating is about a 1/3 of the load those ceiling joist will be supporting, since they will be supporting the floor now. So you need to make sure those joists are big enough to begin with to support the new load, AND since you are cutting them to make room for the new staircase, you need to make sure that beam you are creating is big enough to transfer that load. You are probably talking an engineered beam here.

Call someone who knows what the hell they are doing.

Duly noted. Beyond airflow, it was also meant to create the illusion of more space when your on the main floor, and to equal out the floor plan, i.e. have both sides opened up.

Yeah, it looks like I'll be calling up an engineer....

 

[Mile High]

4 2x8s sounds like plenty of overdesign. An engineer might run the calculations and cut that down to 2 or 3, but the cost of the extra wood is a lot cheaper than the engineer's fee. What's the purpose of the second opening in the floor?

Just to equalize the space on the second floor, for aesthetics, and to also have good airflow. Thanks for the input, I'll be looking for a local engineer to chime in, just thought their might be a FBG with words of wisdom by looking at the schematic. What I've gleamed is I haven't provided enough information for a rational answer.

Airflow from the garage into a living space? Maybe I'm misunderstanding what you're trying to do.Keep in mind that if you are asking for an engineer to certify that the design is adequate, you aren't paying for the time it takes to run the calculation, you're paying for the liability. That's why the other guy quoted $1200.

I'm turning my garage into a full Additional Dwelling Unit. As such, it will have a kitchen, bathroom, and living space on level one, and a bedroom on level two.

Ok that makes more sense. A 4 member beam or a couple of microlams should do the trick. You could always add a post to help support the beam. What's size of the garage?

 

[Mile High]

Will it be easy to get furniture up there with the 2 openings? What is the space between the stairs and the overlook opening?

 

[skycriesmary]

4 2x8s sounds like plenty of overdesign. An engineer might run the calculations and cut that down to 2 or 3, but the cost of the extra wood is a lot cheaper than the engineer's fee. What's the purpose of the second opening in the floor?

Just to equalize the space on the second floor, for aesthetics, and to also have good airflow. Thanks for the input, I'll be looking for a local engineer to chime in, just thought their might be a FBG with words of wisdom by looking at the schematic. What I've gleamed is I haven't provided enough information for a rational answer.

Airflow from the garage into a living space? Maybe I'm misunderstanding what you're trying to do.Keep in mind that if you are asking for an engineer to certify that the design is adequate, you aren't paying for the time it takes to run the calculation, you're paying for the liability. That's why the other guy quoted $1200.

I'm turning my garage into a full Additional Dwelling Unit. As such, it will have a kitchen, bathroom, and living space on level one, and a bedroom on level two.

Ok that makes more sense. A 4 member beam or a couple of microlams should do the trick. You could always add a post to help support the beam. What's size of the garage?

It's 22x15 on the ground floor.

 

[skycriesmary]

Will it be easy to get furniture up there with the 2 openings? What is the space between the stairs and the overlook opening?

Easy? No, but here's a look at bringing a mattress up, which should be the largest piece of furniture coming up.

And another.

The landing at the top of the stairs, before the overlook opening is about 3x3.

 

[Uruk-Hai]

You probably need 2ea - 7.25" LVLs to carry the joists. Any lumber yard worth their salt will have load charts telling you what will carry the load (I've long since gotten rid of mine or I'd tell you right now, but I think that would work).

Where you need more help is where that beam ties into the long beam (running N to S on your drawing). You have a point load there - half of the load carried by the double LVL I mentioned above. If there's no post under that connection, you need to make sure the N-to-S beam and connector (basically, a joist hanger on steroids) are strong enough.

Again, any independent lumber yard should be able to help with that, unless they've dumbed way down in the 20 years I've been out of that business.

Hell, there are probably load charts on line.

The info you need:

1. Clear span of the joists tying into the E-to-W beam

2. Clear span of the E-to-W beam

3. Clear span of the N-to-S beam

Figure 55 lbs per sq ft for a living area

 

[Uruk-Hai]

Also - depending on the span - if you're using 2x8 joists, put them 12" OC. You're only talking a couple more and your floor will have less bounce.

eta: use joist hangers to tie them to the beam instead of toe-nailing them

 

[El Floppo]

You probably need 2ea - 7.25" LVLs to carry the joists. Any lumber yard worth their salt will have load charts telling you what will carry the load (I've long since gotten rid of mine or I'd tell you right now, but I think that would work).

Where you need more help is where that beam ties into the long beam (running N to S on your drawing). You have a point load there - half of the load carried by the double LVL I mentioned above. If there's no post under that connection, you need to make sure the N-to-S beam and connector (basically, a joist hanger on steroids) are strong enough.

Again, any independent lumber yard should be able to help with that, unless they've dumbed way down in the 20 years I've been out of that business.

Hell, there are probably load charts on line.

The info you need:

1. Clear span of the joists tying into the E-to-W beam

2. Clear span of the E-to-W beam

3. Clear span of the N-to-S beam

Figure 55 lbs per sq ft for a living area

What are your thoughts on this, UH- run one N/S beam from the corner on the North wall- then span across E/W from that across each opening.

Also- Garage w/ an ADU addition is different than transforming a garage into an ADU. Da Vinci and I were tying to wrap our heads around the code/fire-rating issues with an active garage and two openings to an ADU above.

And yeah- it's awfully small space to be losing the SF of the 2nd opening, although I appreciate the design-y factor. I assume the architects looked at options putting the stairs in the same direction as the joists? Seems like an obvious, easier way of doing this.

 

[Sabertooth]

http://www.awc.org/technical/spantables/tutorial.php

 

[ROCKET]

I have to pay for engineering designs all the time for the work I contract, it's just part of the process. You are paying for the stamp, plain and simple.The actual amount of work for an engineer to design a building like that is probably less than 3-4 hours at most. The engineer assumes the liability for the

performance of the design IF the design is done exactly as drawn. You can thank all the sue happy people out there in our society for the $1200 price tag as the engineer has to cover his liability rates.

The architect should have told you that the engineering cost would be part of the design from the git go.

I don't see where your beef is, $1200 is reasonable for what you're asking for. I don't imagine you wanted to pay a 5% commission to the realtor when you bought the property either?

 

[Battles]

You probably need 2ea - 7.25" LVLs to carry the joists. Any lumber yard worth their salt will have load charts telling you what will carry the load (I've long since gotten rid of mine or I'd tell you right now, but I think that would work).

Where you need more help is where that beam ties into the long beam (running N to S on your drawing). You have a point load there - half of the load carried by the double LVL I mentioned above. If there's no post under that connection, you need to make sure the N-to-S beam and connector (basically, a joist hanger on steroids) are strong enough.

Again, any independent lumber yard should be able to help with that, unless they've dumbed way down in the 20 years I've been out of that business.

Hell, there are probably load charts on line.

The info you need:

1. Clear span of the joists tying into the E-to-W beam

2. Clear span of the E-to-W beam

3. Clear span of the N-to-S beam

Figure 55 lbs per sq ft for a living area

What are your thoughts on this, UH- run one N/S beam from the corner on the North wall- then span across E/W from that across each opening.

Also- Garage w/ an ADU addition is different than transforming a garage into an ADU. Da Vinci and I were tying to wrap our heads around the code/fire-rating issues with an active garage and two openings to an ADU above.

And yeah- it's awfully small space to be losing the SF of the 2nd opening, although I appreciate the design-y factor. I assume the architects looked at options putting the stairs in the same direction as the joists? Seems like an obvious, easier way of doing this.

All of the last paragraph. Your architect is questionable at best. Should have been keep it simple stupid on the design strategy. Everything was made harder and more expensive than it needed to be. Run the stairs with the joists. If you want it more open to below, then make the one opening bigger. One large opening is so much better than 2 small. I'm assuming the 2x8s are existing? I would have gone larger or engineered for the floor joists. Also, glued and screwed t&g sturdifloor decking.

 

[Uruk-Hai]

I have dealt with engineers for 30 years. In general, they will design stuff +3x what's necessary (ie, they're cowards). That's fine when you have adjacent load-bearing elements (footings, etc..) that can help each other. That damned point load is the issue.I know you don't want a post there, so the NS beam needs to carry it and also be in-line for aesthetic reasons. If you can't back up your connection with a load chart, then pay the engineer. $1200 ain't much for peace-of-mind and insurance.

 

[Uruk-Hai]

You probably need 2ea - 7.25" LVLs to carry the joists. Any lumber yard worth their salt will have load charts telling you what will carry the load (I've long since gotten rid of mine or I'd tell you right now, but I think that would work).

Where you need more help is where that beam ties into the long beam (running N to S on your drawing). You have a point load there - half of the load carried by the double LVL I mentioned above. If there's no post under that connection, you need to make sure the N-to-S beam and connector (basically, a joist hanger on steroids) are strong enough.

Again, any independent lumber yard should be able to help with that, unless they've dumbed way down in the 20 years I've been out of that business.

Hell, there are probably load charts on line.

The info you need:

1. Clear span of the joists tying into the E-to-W beam

2. Clear span of the E-to-W beam

3. Clear span of the N-to-S beam

Figure 55 lbs per sq ft for a living area

What are your thoughts on this, UH- run one N/S beam from the corner on the North wall- then span across E/W from that across each opening.

I'm not getting this. Splain with a pitcher, Lucy.

 

[skycriesmary]

You probably need 2ea - 7.25" LVLs to carry the joists. Any lumber yard worth their salt will have load charts telling you what will carry the load (I've long since gotten rid of mine or I'd tell you right now, but I think that would work).

Where you need more help is where that beam ties into the long beam (running N to S on your drawing). You have a point load there - half of the load carried by the double LVL I mentioned above. If there's no post under that connection, you need to make sure the N-to-S beam and connector (basically, a joist hanger on steroids) are strong enough.

Again, any independent lumber yard should be able to help with that, unless they've dumbed way down in the 20 years I've been out of that business.

Hell, there are probably load charts on line.

The info you need:

1. Clear span of the joists tying into the E-to-W beam

2. Clear span of the E-to-W beam

3. Clear span of the N-to-S beam

Figure 55 lbs per sq ft for a living area

Thank you very much for your input, much appreciated! I hadn't considered that a lumber yard would be able to help me with figuring this out. I'll take your suggestions, along with my plans and see what is recommended. Assuming their eyes don't glaze over when I ask...

 

[skycriesmary]

You probably need 2ea - 7.25" LVLs to carry the joists. Any lumber yard worth their salt will have load charts telling you what will carry the load (I've long since gotten rid of mine or I'd tell you right now, but I think that would work).

Where you need more help is where that beam ties into the long beam (running N to S on your drawing). You have a point load there - half of the load carried by the double LVL I mentioned above. If there's no post under that connection, you need to make sure the N-to-S beam and connector (basically, a joist hanger on steroids) are strong enough.

Again, any independent lumber yard should be able to help with that, unless they've dumbed way down in the 20 years I've been out of that business.

Hell, there are probably load charts on line.

The info you need:

1. Clear span of the joists tying into the E-to-W beam

2. Clear span of the E-to-W beam

3. Clear span of the N-to-S beam

Figure 55 lbs per sq ft for a living area

What are your thoughts on this, UH- run one N/S beam from the corner on the North wall- then span across E/W from that across each opening.

Also- Garage w/ an ADU addition is different than transforming a garage into an ADU. Da Vinci and I were tying to wrap our heads around the code/fire-rating issues with an active garage and two openings to an ADU above.

And yeah- it's awfully small space to be losing the SF of the 2nd opening, although I appreciate the design-y factor. I assume the architects looked at options putting the stairs in the same direction as the joists? Seems like an obvious, easier way of doing this.

To be clear, this will no longer be a garage, both levels will be converted to a self contained living space; bedroom upstairs, kitchen, bathroom, and living area downstairs.

We couldn't run the stairs the other way (along the north wall), as there isn't enough clearance at the top of the stairs in the north west corner, to the ceiling (6'8") without adding a dormer, which just wouldn't work in the greater design.

 

[El Floppo]

You probably need 2ea - 7.25" LVLs to carry the joists. Any lumber yard worth their salt will have load charts telling you what will carry the load (I've long since gotten rid of mine or I'd tell you right now, but I think that would work).

Where you need more help is where that beam ties into the long beam (running N to S on your drawing). You have a point load there - half of the load carried by the double LVL I mentioned above. If there's no post under that connection, you need to make sure the N-to-S beam and connector (basically, a joist hanger on steroids) are strong enough.

Again, any independent lumber yard should be able to help with that, unless they've dumbed way down in the 20 years I've been out of that business.

Hell, there are probably load charts on line.

The info you need:

1. Clear span of the joists tying into the E-to-W beam

2. Clear span of the E-to-W beam

3. Clear span of the N-to-S beam

Figure 55 lbs per sq ft for a living area

What are your thoughts on this, UH- run one N/S beam from the corner on the North wall- then span across E/W from that across each opening.

I'm not getting this. Splain with a pitcher, Lucy.

Peecher, Peppermint.

 

[El Floppo]

You probably need 2ea - 7.25" LVLs to carry the joists. Any lumber yard worth their salt will have load charts telling you what will carry the load (I've long since gotten rid of mine or I'd tell you right now, but I think that would work).

Where you need more help is where that beam ties into the long beam (running N to S on your drawing). You have a point load there - half of the load carried by the double LVL I mentioned above. If there's no post under that connection, you need to make sure the N-to-S beam and connector (basically, a joist hanger on steroids) are strong enough.

Again, any independent lumber yard should be able to help with that, unless they've dumbed way down in the 20 years I've been out of that business.

Hell, there are probably load charts on line.

The info you need:

1. Clear span of the joists tying into the E-to-W beam

2. Clear span of the E-to-W beam

3. Clear span of the N-to-S beam

Figure 55 lbs per sq ft for a living area

What are your thoughts on this, UH- run one N/S beam from the corner on the North wall- then span across E/W from that across each opening.

Also- Garage w/ an ADU addition is different than transforming a garage into an ADU. Da Vinci and I were tying to wrap our heads around the code/fire-rating issues with an active garage and two openings to an ADU above.

And yeah- it's awfully small space to be losing the SF of the 2nd opening, although I appreciate the design-y factor. I assume the architects looked at options putting the stairs in the same direction as the joists? Seems like an obvious, easier way of doing this.

To be clear, this will no longer be a garage, both levels will be converted to a self contained living space; bedroom upstairs, kitchen, bathroom, and living area downstairs.

We couldn't run the stairs the other way (along the north wall), as there isn't enough clearance at the top of the stairs in the north west corner, to the ceiling (6'8") without adding a dormer, which just wouldn't work in the greater design.

Sounds like you're already pot-committed to the current design, so running plans by us likely won't help you... even though it would help us help you.

 

[Uruk-Hai]

You probably need 2ea - 7.25" LVLs to carry the joists. Any lumber yard worth their salt will have load charts telling you what will carry the load (I've long since gotten rid of mine or I'd tell you right now, but I think that would work).

Where you need more help is where that beam ties into the long beam (running N to S on your drawing). You have a point load there - half of the load carried by the double LVL I mentioned above. If there's no post under that connection, you need to make sure the N-to-S beam and connector (basically, a joist hanger on steroids) are strong enough.

Again, any independent lumber yard should be able to help with that, unless they've dumbed way down in the 20 years I've been out of that business.

Hell, there are probably load charts on line.

The info you need:

1. Clear span of the joists tying into the E-to-W beam

2. Clear span of the E-to-W beam

3. Clear span of the N-to-S beam

Figure 55 lbs per sq ft for a living area

What are your thoughts on this, UH- run one N/S beam from the corner on the North wall- then span across E/W from that across each opening.

I'm not getting this. Splain with a pitcher, Lucy.

Peecher, Peppermint.

Ok. Just one stair opening? I think that's what you mean but want to make sure.

What's the front to back span on the joists in the non-stair area?

 

[El Floppo]

You probably need 2ea - 7.25" LVLs to carry the joists. Any lumber yard worth their salt will have load charts telling you what will carry the load (I've long since gotten rid of mine or I'd tell you right now, but I think that would work).

Where you need more help is where that beam ties into the long beam (running N to S on your drawing). You have a point load there - half of the load carried by the double LVL I mentioned above. If there's no post under that connection, you need to make sure the N-to-S beam and connector (basically, a joist hanger on steroids) are strong enough.

Again, any independent lumber yard should be able to help with that, unless they've dumbed way down in the 20 years I've been out of that business.

Hell, there are probably load charts on line.

The info you need:

1. Clear span of the joists tying into the E-to-W beam

2. Clear span of the E-to-W beam

3. Clear span of the N-to-S beam

Figure 55 lbs per sq ft for a living area

What are your thoughts on this, UH- run one N/S beam from the corner on the North wall- then span across E/W from that across each opening.

I'm not getting this. Splain with a pitcher, Lucy.

Peecher, Peppermint.

Ok. Just one stair opening? I think that's what you mean but want to make sure.

What's the front to back span on the joists in the non-stair area?

One new beam going N/S that is carrying the beams for both the stair and the other opening. Non-stair joist span is the same as it was in the original drawing.

 

[skycriesmary]

You probably need 2ea - 7.25" LVLs to carry the joists. Any lumber yard worth their salt will have load charts telling you what will carry the load (I've long since gotten rid of mine or I'd tell you right now, but I think that would work).

Where you need more help is where that beam ties into the long beam (running N to S on your drawing). You have a point load there - half of the load carried by the double LVL I mentioned above. If there's no post under that connection, you need to make sure the N-to-S beam and connector (basically, a joist hanger on steroids) are strong enough.

Again, any independent lumber yard should be able to help with that, unless they've dumbed way down in the 20 years I've been out of that business.

Hell, there are probably load charts on line.

The info you need:

1. Clear span of the joists tying into the E-to-W beam

2. Clear span of the E-to-W beam

3. Clear span of the N-to-S beam

Figure 55 lbs per sq ft for a living area

What are your thoughts on this, UH- run one N/S beam from the corner on the North wall- then span across E/W from that across each opening.

I'm not getting this. Splain with a pitcher, Lucy.

Peecher, Peppermint.

Ok. Just one stair opening? I think that's what you mean but want to make sure.

What's the front to back span on the joists in the non-stair area?

Explain that question to me like I'm a third grader, please. Your not asking the space between, but length of joists on the non-stair area? They are about 15'.

I have someone that is going to run a load analysis and some calc's for me who is an experienced architect/designer.

All that being said, all the time spent pushing me in the right direction is appreciated. Hopefully I can get this answered in the next couple of days.

If any of you have any SEO or SEM questions regarding your businesses, feel free to send me a PM.

 

[Uruk-Hai]

You probably need 2ea - 7.25" LVLs to carry the joists. Any lumber yard worth their salt will have load charts telling you what will carry the load (I've long since gotten rid of mine or I'd tell you right now, but I think that would work).

Where you need more help is where that beam ties into the long beam (running N to S on your drawing). You have a point load there - half of the load carried by the double LVL I mentioned above. If there's no post under that connection, you need to make sure the N-to-S beam and connector (basically, a joist hanger on steroids) are strong enough.

Again, any independent lumber yard should be able to help with that, unless they've dumbed way down in the 20 years I've been out of that business.

Hell, there are probably load charts on line.

The info you need:

1. Clear span of the joists tying into the E-to-W beam

2. Clear span of the E-to-W beam

3. Clear span of the N-to-S beam

Figure 55 lbs per sq ft for a living area

What are your thoughts on this, UH- run one N/S beam from the corner on the North wall- then span across E/W from that across each opening.

I'm not getting this. Splain with a pitcher, Lucy.

Peecher, Peppermint.

Ok. Just one stair opening? I think that's what you mean but want to make sure.

What's the front to back span on the joists in the non-stair area?

Explain that question to me like I'm a third grader, please. Your not asking the space between, but length of joists on the non-stair area? They are about 15'.

I have someone that is going to run a load analysis and some calc's for me who is an experienced architect/designer.

All that being said, all the time spent pushing me in the right direction is appreciated. Hopefully I can get this answered in the next couple of days.

If any of you have any SEO or SEM questions regarding your businesses, feel free to send me a PM.

Yes. If it's 15 feet, tighten them up to 12" OC or go 2x10.

Don't #### around with this trying to be cute (not saying YOU are, but many do) - a couple grand (if engr req'd) is a drop in the bucket for peace of mind.

 

[skycriesmary]

You probably need 2ea - 7.25" LVLs to carry the joists. Any lumber yard worth their salt will have load charts telling you what will carry the load (I've long since gotten rid of mine or I'd tell you right now, but I think that would work).

Where you need more help is where that beam ties into the long beam (running N to S on your drawing). You have a point load there - half of the load carried by the double LVL I mentioned above. If there's no post under that connection, you need to make sure the N-to-S beam and connector (basically, a joist hanger on steroids) are strong enough.

Again, any independent lumber yard should be able to help with that, unless they've dumbed way down in the 20 years I've been out of that business.

Hell, there are probably load charts on line.

The info you need:

1. Clear span of the joists tying into the E-to-W beam

2. Clear span of the E-to-W beam

3. Clear span of the N-to-S beam

Figure 55 lbs per sq ft for a living area

What are your thoughts on this, UH- run one N/S beam from the corner on the North wall- then span across E/W from that across each opening.

I'm not getting this. Splain with a pitcher, Lucy.

Peecher, Peppermint.

Ok. Just one stair opening? I think that's what you mean but want to make sure.

What's the front to back span on the joists in the non-stair area?

Explain that question to me like I'm a third grader, please. Your not asking the space between, but length of joists on the non-stair area? They are about 15'.

I have someone that is going to run a load analysis and some calc's for me who is an experienced architect/designer.

All that being said, all the time spent pushing me in the right direction is appreciated. Hopefully I can get this answered in the next couple of days.

If any of you have any SEO or SEM questions regarding your businesses, feel free to send me a PM.

Yes. If it's 15 feet, tighten them up to 12" OC or go 2x10.

Don't #### around with this trying to be cute (not saying YOU are, but many do) - a couple grand (if engr req'd) is a drop in the bucket for peace of mind.

Understood.

 

[Mile High]

What were you using the second floor in the garage before this remodel?

OT. Where are all you guys posting and help live. Just curious. Here in Colorado we only use tgis, lvls and steel in floor systems. Is that standard everywhere now. We even use tgis as rafters in cut in roofs.

 

[skycriesmary]

What were you using the second floor in the garage before this remodel?

OT. Where are all you guys posting and help live. Just curious. Here in Colorado we only use tgis, lvls and steel in floor systems. Is that standard everywhere now. We even use tgis as rafters in cut in roofs.

I rented it out, as a studio room, but the tenant had to come inside the main house to use the bathroom and kitchen. When I bought the house in 2001, it had previously been remodeled into that space, without pulling permits.

I'm looking at this as a way to have privacy in my house, and be a passive income generator. Payoff will be about ten years when looking at increased rent, vs. initial cost, increased taxes, and insurance.

 

[skycriesmary]

I'm posting this as there were quite a few of you who spent quite a bit of time and energy with suggestions. I figure'd you might like to know the outcome.

Well, this has taken an interesting turn. After getting the framing plan back tonight from the architect who ran the calc's, I've decided to narrow the cutout section near the stairwell and opening on the other side. Decreasing it about a foot from the 4'3" it was.

The architect who ran these for me said he thought I'd put a beam in to create the opening for the stair, and another from the end of that beam, tying into the east wall. I'd have one post and a footing at the corner of the wall below the stairs.

He's sending me the revised calc's and framing plan tomorrow morning. Not nearly as nice , but not nearly as much of a headache as well. I can't imagine trying to frame all those 4x8's.

 

[DaVinci]

5 4x8s?