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***OFFICIAL*** Footballguys homebrew thread (1 Viewer)

Just remember to save ONE to start your next batch. It's a great tradition I have, and I'm sure I still get at least a molecule from my very first batch in every batch I brew.

 
Just bottled my Pu#### Porter.What should freshly bottled brew taste like?
Flat beer.
Yup.Give it a couple of weeks before you open them up. Ok... open one up after about a week, just to check the carbonation.
You clearly don't know gator.
Not a patient person, I'm guessing?Neither am I. I've been known to check the just bottled beers a few hours after I've bottled them. Then a day or two later. With this hobby, I've learned to be a little more patient, at least with my beers.
 
Just bottled my Pu#### Porter.What should freshly bottled brew taste like?
Flat beer.
Yup.Give it a couple of weeks before you open them up. Ok... open one up after about a week, just to check the carbonation.
You clearly don't know gator.
Not a patient person, I'm guessing?Neither am I. I've been known to check the just bottled beers a few hours after I've bottled them. Then a day or two later. With this hobby, I've learned to be a little more patient, at least with my beers.
Yeah, I've already checked one. :homer:
 
Ok, pick a kit for me to order from THIS PAGE. I'm leaning toward the European Lager. I've already done the American Lager and the Bavarian Bock, so those are OUT.

FYI - I've brewed two award winning stouts from this site if you're looking for some quality kits.

 
Just bottled my Pu#### Porter.

What should freshly bottled brew taste like?
Flat beer.
Yup.Give it a couple of weeks before you open them up. Ok... open one up after about a week, just to check the carbonation.
You clearly don't know gator.
Not a patient person, I'm guessing?Neither am I. I've been known to check the just bottled beers a few hours after I've bottled them. Then a day or two later. With this hobby, I've learned to be a little more patient, at least with my beers.
Yeah, I've already checked one. :loco:
:rolleyes:
 
Ok, pick a kit for me to order from THIS PAGE. I'm leaning toward the European Lager. I've already done the American Lager and the Bavarian Bock, so those are OUT.

FYI - I've brewed two award winning stouts from this site if you're looking for some quality kits.
How are you lagering?
 
Just bottled my Pu#### Porter.

What should freshly bottled brew taste like?
Flat beer.
Yup.Give it a couple of weeks before you open them up. Ok... open one up after about a week, just to check the carbonation.
You clearly don't know gator.
Not a patient person, I'm guessing?Neither am I. I've been known to check the just bottled beers a few hours after I've bottled them. Then a day or two later. With this hobby, I've learned to be a little more patient, at least with my beers.
Yeah, I've already checked one. :loco:
:rolleyes:
I had to try it. Was very flat, didn't tast like ####, and smelled pretty good.
 
Ok, pick a kit for me to order from THIS PAGE. I'm leaning toward the European Lager. I've already done the American Lager and the Bavarian Bock, so those are OUT.
Continental Dark
FYI - I've brewed two award winning stouts from this site if you're looking for some quality kits.
:rolleyes:
Irish Stout
What did you win?
First win was the "popular vote". Didn't place with the judges that year though. The next year I won the blue ribbon in the dry stout category and took 2nd in the popular vote. If you like stout, you can't go wrong with this kit.
 
Ok, pick a kit for me to order from THIS PAGE. I'm leaning toward the European Lager. I've already done the American Lager and the Bavarian Bock, so those are OUT.
Continental Dark
FYI - I've brewed two award winning stouts from this site if you're looking for some quality kits.
:rolleyes:
Irish Stout
What did you win?
First win was the "popular vote". Didn't place with the judges that year though. The next year I won the blue ribbon in the dry stout category and took 2nd in the popular vote. If you like stout, you can't go wrong with this kit.
orc gets his kits there i think.
 
Brewing http://byo.com/recipe/552.html but changed up some of the ingredients because I'm crazy like that.

A little shuked on this one section:

Heat 1.5 gal. water to 160° F. Mix in pale and crystal malts and oats. Hold at 150° F for 75 min. Sprinkle roasted barley and smoked malt on top of mash, then sparge with 2.5 gal. of 168° F water. Take the first 2 qt. of run-off and boil in a wide, flat pan for 20 min. or until caramelized (nearly burnt is fine).

Where do you think the 2 quarts comes from? The runnings or the sparge water? This should be a pole.

 
Brewing http://byo.com/recipe/552.html but changed up some of the ingredients because I'm crazy like that.

A little shuked on this one section:

Heat 1.5 gal. water to 160° F. Mix in pale and crystal malts and oats. Hold at 150° F for 75 min. Sprinkle roasted barley and smoked malt on top of mash, then sparge with 2.5 gal. of 168° F water. Take the first 2 qt. of run-off and boil in a wide, flat pan for 20 min. or until caramelized (nearly burnt is fine).

Where do you think the 2 quarts comes from? The runnings or the sparge water? This should be a pole.
When you sparge with the 2.5 gallons, collect the first 2 quarts that come through the grains.At least that's how I take it to mean. When you sparge, you just aren't dumping the whole 2.5 gallons on top of the grains at once. It's kind of a trickle down kind of thing. You pour some in, let it start to drain, and then pour some more in. I think you'll want to have continuous flow, but the output should be slow, I'm guessing. Never done a true partial mash before, so this is all speculation and guessing on my part.

Not sure of your experience, but here's what I'm thinking, as far as how it is done.

Heat the 1.5 gallons to 160 degrees. Toss in teh pale and crystal and oats. Drop the temp down to 150 degrees for 75 min. After the 75 min., pour out everything into a strainer or something similar. Then, take the 2.5 gallons of 168 degree water and slowly pour over the grains (after sprinkling the roasted barley and smoked malt on the stuff in the strainer.) Take the first 2 quarts of what comes out, through the strainer, and do what the instructions say. The rest of the 2.5 gallons goes into your boiling pot, with all the other stuff.

Someone correct me if I am wrong in my assumptions here.

 
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Brewing http://byo.com/recipe/552.html but changed up some of the ingredients because I'm crazy like that.

A little shuked on this one section:

Heat 1.5 gal. water to 160° F. Mix in pale and crystal malts and oats. Hold at 150° F for 75 min. Sprinkle roasted barley and smoked malt on top of mash, then sparge with 2.5 gal. of 168° F water. Take the first 2 qt. of run-off and boil in a wide, flat pan for 20 min. or until caramelized (nearly burnt is fine).

Where do you think the 2 quarts comes from? The runnings or the sparge water? This should be a pole.
When you sparge with the 2.5 gallons, collect the first 2 quarts that come through the grains.At least that's how I take it to mean. When you sparge, you just aren't dumping the whole 2.5 gallons on top of the grains at once. It's kind of a trickle down kind of thing. You pour some in, let it start to drain, and then pour some more in. I think you'll want to have continuous flow, but the output should be slow, I'm guessing. Never done a true partial mash before, so this is all speculation and guessing on my part.

Not sure of your experience, but here's what I'm thinking, as far as how it is done.

Heat the 1.5 gallons to 160 degrees. Toss in teh pale and crystal and oats. Drop the temp down to 150 degrees for 75 min. After the 75 min., pour out everything into a strainer or something similar. Then, take the 2.5 gallons of 168 degree water and slowly pour over the grains (after sprinkling the roasted barley and smoked malt on the stuff in the strainer.) Take the first 2 quarts of what comes out, through the strainer, and do what the instructions say. The rest of the 2.5 gallons goes into your boiling pot, with all the other stuff.

Someone correct me if I am wrong in my assumptions here.
Ok, that's pretty much what I was planning to do. I'm a little "pot limited" here, but I'll make it work somehow. I'd like to have a third vessell to pull this off but I think I can put the 1.5G into a spring water container as 160dF ain't that hot, then sparge to the brew kettle after the 2quarts, put the rest of the mash in the brew kettle and continue the sparge. Or something.

 
Just checked my water bottle I filled with my brew and squeezed out the rest of the air. It's is expanding back to shape. :banned:

 
Just checked my water bottle I filled with my brew and squeezed out the rest of the air. It's is expanding back to shape. :moneybag:
Explain this to me like I'm furley trying to find my wallet to buy a round for nuke.
I read in a book that this is a good way to tell how much your brew is carbonating once you bottle it. Save a little brew andp put in a 12oz water bottle. Put the cap on loosly, and squeez the excess air out and then tighten the cap. As the beer carbonates it will push the bottle back to shape. It should be done and ready to drink once the bottle returns to shape.
 
Just pitched the yeast. Hit the OG at 64, was recomended between 62-67.

Does the amount of sludge at the bottom vary from batch to batch. style to style? This one has a lot where as the previous one had quite a bit less.

 
Just pitched the yeast. Hit the OG at 64, was recomended between 62-67.Does the amount of sludge at the bottom vary from batch to batch. style to style? This one has a lot where as the previous one had quite a bit less.
Sludge is highly variable. even with filtering it still surprises me. I wonder a lot about whether the sludge is really driving the SG more than the sugar content in the water leading to over-correction.Mine's just sitting there waiting to take off. Made more mistakes being in a big rush towards the end. Hoping it works out. All time high of 1.089 SG for me so we'll see if my starter can hang.
 
Just pitched the yeast. Hit the OG at 64, was recomended between 62-67.

Does the amount of sludge at the bottom vary from batch to batch. style to style? This one has a lot where as the previous one had quite a bit less.
Sludge is highly variable. even with filtering it still surprises me. I wonder a lot about whether the sludge is really driving the SG more than the sugar content in the water leading to over-correction.Mine's just sitting there waiting to take off. Made more mistakes being in a big rush towards the end. Hoping it works out. All time high of 1.089 SG for me so we'll see if my starter can hang.
:) Nice. This is the scotch, right?

 
Just pitched the yeast. Hit the OG at 64, was recomended between 62-67.

Does the amount of sludge at the bottom vary from batch to batch. style to style? This one has a lot where as the previous one had quite a bit less.
Sludge is highly variable. even with filtering it still surprises me. I wonder a lot about whether the sludge is really driving the SG more than the sugar content in the water leading to over-correction.Mine's just sitting there waiting to take off. Made more mistakes being in a big rush towards the end. Hoping it works out. All time high of 1.089 SG for me so we'll see if my starter can hang.
:thumbup: Nice. This is the scotch, right?
Yup. And holy crap was that wort sweet. Had a good 1/4 inch of foam so things seem to be going well. Now that I have a beer fridge I think next up will be an imperial pilsner.

 
Mine still has nothing going on. :thumbup:

My Porer did this too. Took about a day and a half to start. :mellow:

BTW, I had a little "suck back" from my airlock and got a few drops of vodka into the wort. WTF?

 
Mine still has nothing going on. :yes:My Porer did this too. Took about a day and a half to start. :unsure:BTW, I had a little "suck back" from my airlock and got a few drops of vodka into the wort. WTF?
How do you know it just didn't evaporate. I just use extremely dilute sanitizing solution.Suckback is almost impossible if you aren't fermenting in a fridge. And even then I would find it hard to believe.
 
Mine still has nothing going on. :goodposting:My Porer did this too. Took about a day and a half to start. :bag:BTW, I had a little "suck back" from my airlock and got a few drops of vodka into the wort. WTF?
How do you know it just didn't evaporate. I just use extremely dilute sanitizing solution.Suckback is almost impossible if you aren't fermenting in a fridge. And even then I would find it hard to believe.
I saw it creeeping up the airlock and when I went to adjust it to let the liquid fall back down a little went in. I pitched and capped at 75 degrees, the temp had fallen to about 68. From what I could find online it shouldn't harm anything, just thought i'd ask you.
 
Mine still has nothing going on. :rolleyes:

My Porer did this too. Took about a day and a half to start. ;)

BTW, I had a little "suck back" from my airlock and got a few drops of vodka into the wort. WTF?
How do you know it just didn't evaporate. I just use extremely dilute sanitizing solution.Suckback is almost impossible if you aren't fermenting in a fridge. And even then I would find it hard to believe.
I saw it creeeping up the airlock and when I went to adjust it to let the liquid fall back down a little went in. I pitched and capped at 75 degrees, the temp had fallen to about 68. From what I could find online it shouldn't harm anything, just thought i'd ask you.
What kind of airlock are you using? The one piece or the two or three piece deal? Are you putting too much liquid in the airlock?I've seen on Northernbrewers website (not the forums) that they sell some foam stoppers (you'll find it under Beer Ingredients/Yeast/Yeast Handling Supplies, or here towards the middle of the page) that "could" be used instead of an airlock. Haven't tried them out yet, but have been thinking about it. Supposed to let the CO2 out, but filter whatever air would get into the carboy.

Either way, it won't hurt things too much if something from the airlock gets into the beer, unless it contaminated in some way. A little bit of vodka won't hurt the beer at all.

 
Mine still has nothing going on. :rolleyes:

My Porer did this too. Took about a day and a half to start. :thumbup:

BTW, I had a little "suck back" from my airlock and got a few drops of vodka into the wort. WTF?
How do you know it just didn't evaporate. I just use extremely dilute sanitizing solution.Suckback is almost impossible if you aren't fermenting in a fridge. And even then I would find it hard to believe.
I saw it creeeping up the airlock and when I went to adjust it to let the liquid fall back down a little went in. I pitched and capped at 75 degrees, the temp had fallen to about 68. From what I could find online it shouldn't harm anything, just thought i'd ask you.
What kind of airlock are you using? The one piece or the two or three piece deal? Are you putting too much liquid in the airlock?I've seen on Northernbrewers website (not the forums) that they sell some foam stoppers (you'll find it under Beer Ingredients/Yeast/Yeast Handling Supplies, or here towards the middle of the page) that "could" be used instead of an airlock. Haven't tried them out yet, but have been thinking about it. Supposed to let the CO2 out, but filter whatever air would get into the carboy.

Either way, it won't hurt things too much if something from the airlock gets into the beer, unless it contaminated in some way. A little bit of vodka won't hurt the beer at all.
It's a three piece airlock. Thanks for the link. ;)

 
My uncle makes a mean chocolate stout. I just helped him bottle this week. He also keeps his stout and IPA in kegs at all times as well. Love going to his house.

 
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***Oficially*** cracking homebrew #1 tonight.
The n00bs impatience cracks me up. :lmao:
What? It's been a week.
I promise you if it turns out ok in the end you'll kick yourself for burning 1 week conditioned beer just to see.
I thought it was ok after a week? :lost:
Yes, it's "OK" but really even after it's gotten sufficent carbonation it doesn't mean it's had time for the flavors to settle. Most beers under 1.07 are on the 1-2-3 system (primary-secondary-conditioning) with each step being more preferable to staying longer than the previous one.
 
Yup.

Give it a couple of weeks before you open them up. Ok... open one up after about a week, just to check the carbonation.
Ok, reading back. I misread, i'll wait. :wall:
It'll be fine to open ONE tonight, just to check on the carbonation and to see what it tastes like. I'm as impatient as the next homebrewer. I always open one up to check the carbonation and taste. Then I let them sit a few more weeks before I really start into them. The idea behind waiting is to let the flavors meld. The longer they sit, the better flavor and aroma they'll have.For what it's worth... if I were you, I wouldn't brew any barley wines any time soon. You gotta let them suckers sit for nearly a year before they are any good. I just don't think you've got what it takes to wait that long. :D

 
The Gator said:
***Oficially*** cracking homebrew #1 tonight.
Well... did you crack one open? How was it?
Well, wasn't going to till you bumped this....
Chill it and then taste it. It won't hurt. You're just checking carbonation.
I had ONE chilling .... :bag:Pretty agressive pour yielded a little head. I really like the smell to it, but the body isn't there. Mostly malty with very little hops.
 
The Gator said:
***Oficially*** cracking homebrew #1 tonight.
Well... did you crack one open? How was it?
Well, wasn't going to till you bumped this....
Chill it and then taste it. It won't hurt. You're just checking carbonation.
I had ONE chilling .... :bag:Pretty agressive pour yielded a little head. I really like the smell to it, but the body isn't there. Mostly malty with very little hops.
Carbonation isn't there yet. Give it another week. What kind is it again?
 

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