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*** Official Real Estate Forum *** (2 Viewers)

My dad has a rental that he's trying to sell in Dayton, Oh. The current renter has just moved out and my dad (retired) is tired of dealing with the property, as he's never made any money off of it.

He called me today, as he's dealing with 3 or 4 potential buyers... all of them are contractor-types that want to buy it cheap, fix it, and flip it quickly. I know this will be low $$$ for you guys that are making $ in RE, but houses in the area are selling in the low 60's. My dad owes just over 51K on the house, and think it needs more than 10K, to fix it up.

He's tried to sell it before while he was renting it out and never had any luck, now he's dealing with the "we buy all houses" types to get rid of it. He hasn't received any offers in writing yet, but should be soon. His problem is that they all seem to be saying that they need to fix it before selling (duh), and they're looking at some creative arrangements.

How do these deals typically work if the buyer doesn't want to get the house loan in his name until AFTER it's fixed? It sounds like they want my dad to pay for the repairs before they close on the house...

As a related note, the Dayton GM plant is going to be closing in the next year and there are a couple of other large businesses downsizing/closing. My dad is thinking the property will be worth less in a couple of years.

 
My dad has a rental that he's trying to sell in Dayton, Oh. The current renter has just moved out and my dad (retired) is tired of dealing with the property, as he's never made any money off of it.

He called me today, as he's dealing with 3 or 4 potential buyers... all of them are contractor-types that want to buy it cheap, fix it, and flip it quickly. I know this will be low $$$ for you guys that are making $ in RE, but houses in the area are selling in the low 60's. My dad owes just over 51K on the house, and think it needs more than 10K, to fix it up.

He's tried to sell it before while he was renting it out and never had any luck, now he's dealing with the "we buy all houses" types to get rid of it. He hasn't received any offers in writing yet, but should be soon. His problem is that they all seem to be saying that they need to fix it before selling (duh), and they're looking at some creative arrangements.

How do these deals typically work if the buyer doesn't want to get the house loan in his name until AFTER it's fixed? It sounds like they want my dad to pay for the repairs before they close on the house...

As a related note, the Dayton GM plant is going to be closing in the next year and there are a couple of other large businesses downsizing/closing. My dad is thinking the property will be worth less in a couple of years.
Hey blenderfrog.If your Dad really wants to be rid of it, he'll need to be creative to work with someone who will buy it "as is".

The issues here are that your Dad has (1) a house that doesn't make $$, (2) a house that needs work, and (3) is tired of owning it.

Sounds like what I call a "motivated seller".

Now, I'm not saying he is going to be taken advantage of, but he does need to walk away semi-happy. If he justs wants out, there's a few ways to do it with these guys that are wanting to buy the house.

Just looking at the numbers, if the place could sell for $65K and needed $10K in repairs, an investor SHOULD only pay $35K.

Insert :jawdrop: and :eek: here.

Now, why did I pick that number?

70% of $65K minus repairs is a rule of thumb. That's the MOST a smart investor will pay.

Why 70%?

Closing costs on the buy side (3-4% in MD)

Holding costs - mortgages, insurance, taxes (varies, say 3%)

Sales costs - realtor and closing (10-11%)

We just lost about 17% of the price, or more, and we haven't made a profit.

So it makes NO sense to buy this house, repair it, deal with the hassle, if you don't get at least 10-15% profit, right?

I wouldn't buy this house unless I made 10K, but that's me.

So - if your Dad can sell it for what he owes, I'd say take whatever arrangement that works legally to be rid of it. Read over the agreements and make sure the deed is not given to the new buyer until he gets rid of the debt (mortgage), then run away.

Be very happy if you get $51K for this place.

Hope that helped.

 
Window pictures. I know they didn't turn out well, we'll get more (at night) if you need them.

window1

window2

window3

window4

window5

window6

window7

window8

window9

window10

window11

window12
Since I am heading out tonight for a 4 day weekend draft out of town for my Dynasty League, you were almost waiting until Monday.You know, those windows are great. They are some 3 times better in almost every way compared to the Wooden sash windows I pick up in REOs. Look at all be stained wood.

Pick a Window, and sand down any water damage or like the red numbers/wording on the one sill. Don't sand the whole window, just the bad spots. From there, get Stain samples, and try to match up the color already in the house. You won't be able to do it exactly, as likely that exact color isn't made anymore, you wouldn't know what company made it, and even if you could find it, time darkens stain.

So, match up the stain as best you can (I like Minwax as the product of choice) DO NOT BUY THIS AT THE ReStore. The stain at the ReStore could have been sitting there for years. When you buy the stain, have the guy shake it for you.

Buy a Stain just slightly darker than the overall color of the wood in the house if you have a choice. Don't go lighter. Every window will be done, and look consistant, if it is ever so slightly darker, no big deal.

Simply brush the stain right over every bit of wood on the inside of the window, go right over everything. You will have already sanded out the dark spots, water damage to smooth, and any other imperfections. If you hit the glass, just wipe it up with a clean white cloth as soon as you do it. Try to not hit the glass.

Let that one test window dry a day, and see how you like it. It won't be "perfect" but it will look good, and have a little character. If you like the look, move forward, if not, sand what you don't like, and restain.

Once you like it, and you will, do one coat of Poly. I use Min Wax "Satin" finish. Menards sells a can for under $20. Do a single coat with a paint brush to make the window shine and stand out. Don't force this into the edges of the window AT ALL. If anything, avoid the smallest little part of the sash around the rails. You don't want to Poly your windows closed, that sucks.

You should really like your window then. It would be easier to paint them, but what a terrible waste. However, if you just can't get happy, Paint them out, it's a flip. It will sell better with stained windows.

Now, I notice water damage on the sills and the walls underneath. Given that it's not extensive damage, this is caused by the windows "sweating" in the winter. If you were going to live there, Storm windows solves this. Get this house sold before the Winter! Otherwise you will be putting on storms yourself.

The "sticks" on the sides are the locks that allow you to lock it at various points, right? Just noticed that you don't have any sash locks on the windows. I hate the look of those "sticks", but it's a great design for use of them.

 
First let me say that I am clueless...Ok now that that has been established, I purchased a $130k home in the metro Detroit area at the age of 18.  I put $20K down and my mortgage was a 5 year ARM.  My rate was in the neighborhood of 6.7%.  My mortgage has been sold 3 times and I am now with Chase.  I began paying aproximately $750 per month.  My monthly payment has continued to rise and rise due to " a shortfall in escrow balance" and has somehow managed to reach nearly $1k (on a $110k mortgage) which includes taxes (does this sound right????).  I just got a notice that my 5 year ARM has expired and that my new rate will be 7.85% and my monthly payment is $1,037 with $95,500 remaining on the loan.  What are my options and/or what can I do about this?  Thank you kindly!
You owe $95K against a property that is worth $130K or more.Refinance it into a 5/1 arm or 7/1 arm, or something longer. Rates aren't stable right now (proninja?), so I can't say what's the best product.

You can get a new loan and lock up the payment to a fixed amount.

As for this neg-escrow business, sounds a little fishy. Ask for an escrow statement. Also, on a refi, you can request no escrow if you want to pay the taxes / insurance yourself.

One more thing - call Chase. Tell them you're going to refinance them out of the picture unless they adjust their mortgage to a better rate. Can't hurt.
You should also be able ot lose the Mortgage Insurance and save a few sheckels every month.
 
Living in Las Vegas which had been a very hot real estate market. It is softening up, prices are dropping a bit, builders are giving concessions.

I found a FSBO property that I am interested in and I think is underpriced. $289K for about 1500 sq. feet. Decent neighborhood on a nice lot.

I have a couple questions. First off, how much can I expect to negotiate the price down. If it were me, and I was pricing the house I would figure I want to sell it for $280, so I will offer it at $289. Would I be crazy to offer him $270 (approximately 90% of asking price)? If I don't use a realtor, how much does that save him/me? Can I work that into the equation as to why I am offering less?

I have A+ credit - a personal banker with B of A. Their rates seem pretty high as listed on the website (Quicken Home loans appears to be the most competetive lender out there right now), but might they do a lot of the paperwork for the sale of the house? If we try to do this deal without a RE agent, would you recommend a lawyer or a title company to do the paperwork?

 
Update on fixing up my guesthouse:

The original contractor, while giving us an incredible deal, bailed out so it was back to the drawing board. Still having GCs and handymen come by then submitting their bids. Typically, about 50% never even end up submitting me a bid, odd because why would you come by spend about an hour, measure, write everything down, etc then NEVER even shoot me a bid?

Anyways, so far I like one more than the others but his offer is ~19k. What is the best way to determine if I am getting a good deal or not? We hope to rent the place out for $650 - $750 a month.

Thoughts.

 
Living in Las Vegas which had been a very hot real estate market. It is softening up, prices are dropping a bit, builders are giving concessions.

I found a FSBO property that I am interested in and I think is underpriced. $289K for about 1500 sq. feet. Decent neighborhood on a nice lot.

I have a couple questions. First off, how much can I expect to negotiate the price down. If it were me, and I was pricing the house I would figure I want to sell it for $280, so I will offer it at $289. Would I be crazy to offer him $270 (approximately 90% of asking price)? If I don't use a realtor, how much does that save him/me? Can I work that into the equation as to why I am offering less?

I have A+ credit - a personal banker with B of A. Their rates seem pretty high as listed on the website (Quicken Home loans appears to be the most competetive lender out there right now), but might they do a lot of the paperwork for the sale of the house? If we try to do this deal without a RE agent, would you recommend a lawyer or a title company to do the paperwork?
Hey "4", First, as an investor, NEVER feel like you're offering too low a price.

There is a saying - if they take the first offer, you paid too much.

The reasoning is that if they don't wince at the first offer, you didn't shoot low enough (if they took it, you probably could have had it for less).

Americans don't negotiate well - I'm pretty sure I talked about that earlier in this thread.

If everyone is giving concessions in LV, use that as leverage against the FSBO. "I can go get a brand new house from a builder up the road for $250, why should I buy from you for more?" as an example.

Regarding the actual transaction. Take the retail price and knock 3-7% of the price (usually 6%) off for a realtor fee / commission. That is usually assumed for a FSBO - hence you really don't save any $$ at all with a FSBO - unless you have a buyer in hand.

As for the closing - attorney or title company. I prefer the attorney as they can also draft contracts.

Lastly - you're a banker? I need to talk with you then.

 
Living in Las Vegas which had been a very hot real estate market.  It is softening up, prices are dropping a bit, builders are giving concessions. 

I found a FSBO property that I am interested in and I think is underpriced.  $289K for about 1500 sq. feet.  Decent neighborhood on a nice lot.

I have a couple questions.  First off, how much can I expect to negotiate the price down.  If it were me, and I was pricing the house I would figure I want to sell it for $280, so I will offer it at $289.  Would I be crazy to offer him $270 (approximately 90% of asking price)?  If I don't use a realtor, how much does that save him/me?  Can I work that into the equation as to why I am offering less?

I have A+ credit - a personal banker with B of A.  Their rates seem pretty high as listed on the website (Quicken Home loans appears to be the most competetive lender out there right now), but might they do a lot of the paperwork for the sale of the house?  If we try to do this deal without a RE agent, would you recommend a lawyer or a title company to do the paperwork?
Hey "4", First, as an investor, NEVER feel like you're offering too low a price.

There is a saying - if they take the first offer, you paid too much.

The reasoning is that if they don't wince at the first offer, you didn't shoot low enough (if they took it, you probably could have had it for less).

Americans don't negotiate well - I'm pretty sure I talked about that earlier in this thread.

If everyone is giving concessions in LV, use that as leverage against the FSBO. "I can go get a brand new house from a builder up the road for $250, why should I buy from you for more?" as an example.

Regarding the actual transaction. Take the retail price and knock 3-7% of the price (usually 6%) off for a realtor fee / commission. That is usually assumed for a FSBO - hence you really don't save any $$ at all with a FSBO - unless you have a buyer in hand.

As for the closing - attorney or title company. I prefer the attorney as they can also draft contracts.

Lastly - you're a banker? I need to talk with you then.
Good advice all around. Thanks! PM on it's way.

 
First let me say that I am clueless...Ok now that that has been established, I purchased a $130k home in the metro Detroit area at the age of 18. I put $20K down and my mortgage was a 5 year ARM. My rate was in the neighborhood of 6.7%. My mortgage has been sold 3 times and I am now with Chase. I began paying aproximately $750 per month. My monthly payment has continued to rise and rise due to " a shortfall in escrow balance" and has somehow managed to reach nearly $1k (on a $110k mortgage) which includes taxes (does this sound right????). I just got a notice that my 5 year ARM has expired and that my new rate will be 7.85% and my monthly payment is $1,037 with $95,500 remaining on the loan. What are my options and/or what can I do about this? Thank you kindly!
You owe $95K against a property that is worth $130K or more.Refinance it into a 5/1 arm or 7/1 arm, or something longer. Rates aren't stable right now (proninja?), so I can't say what's the best product.

You can get a new loan and lock up the payment to a fixed amount.

As for this neg-escrow business, sounds a little fishy. Ask for an escrow statement. Also, on a refi, you can request no escrow if you want to pay the taxes / insurance yourself.

One more thing - call Chase. Tell them you're going to refinance them out of the picture unless they adjust their mortgage to a better rate. Can't hurt.
You should also be able ot lose the Mortgage Insurance and save a few sheckels every month.
Simple - time to refi. Get out of the mortgage insurance, and you'll get a lower rate. What type of loan program depends on what you want to do with the property - you want to stay there until you pay it off? Get a 30 year fixed. Only gonna be there for a couple years? Get a 5 year ARM.
Proninja, Good to see you back in the thread, we've missed you and your advice. :thumbup:

What is going on the mortgage world these days?

Anything Bass Ackwards? (i.e. 30 year mortgage rates better than a short term rate, ARMs looking weird, the I/O loans drying up....?)

 
Window pictures.  I know they didn't turn out well, we'll get more (at night) if you need them.

window1

window2

window3

window4

window5

window6

window7

window8

window9

window10

window11

window12
Since I am heading out tonight for a 4 day weekend draft out of town for my Dynasty League, you were almost waiting until Monday.You know, those windows are great. They are some 3 times better in almost every way compared to the Wooden sash windows I pick up in REOs. Look at all be stained wood.

Pick a Window, and sand down any water damage or like the red numbers/wording on the one sill. Don't sand the whole window, just the bad spots. From there, get Stain samples, and try to match up the color already in the house. You won't be able to do it exactly, as likely that exact color isn't made anymore, you wouldn't know what company made it, and even if you could find it, time darkens stain.

So, match up the stain as best you can (I like Minwax as the product of choice) DO NOT BUY THIS AT THE ReStore. The stain at the ReStore could have been sitting there for years. When you buy the stain, have the guy shake it for you.

Buy a Stain just slightly darker than the overall color of the wood in the house if you have a choice. Don't go lighter. Every window will be done, and look consistant, if it is ever so slightly darker, no big deal.

Simply brush the stain right over every bit of wood on the inside of the window, go right over everything. You will have already sanded out the dark spots, water damage to smooth, and any other imperfections. If you hit the glass, just wipe it up with a clean white cloth as soon as you do it. Try to not hit the glass.

Let that one test window dry a day, and see how you like it. It won't be "perfect" but it will look good, and have a little character. If you like the look, move forward, if not, sand what you don't like, and restain.

Once you like it, and you will, do one coat of Poly. I use Min Wax "Satin" finish. Menards sells a can for under $20. Do a single coat with a paint brush to make the window shine and stand out. Don't force this into the edges of the window AT ALL. If anything, avoid the smallest little part of the sash around the rails. You don't want to Poly your windows closed, that sucks.

You should really like your window then. It would be easier to paint them, but what a terrible waste. However, if you just can't get happy, Paint them out, it's a flip. It will sell better with stained windows.

Now, I notice water damage on the sills and the walls underneath. Given that it's not extensive damage, this is caused by the windows "sweating" in the winter. If you were going to live there, Storm windows solves this. Get this house sold before the Winter! Otherwise you will be putting on storms yourself.

The "sticks" on the sides are the locks that allow you to lock it at various points, right? Just noticed that you don't have any sash locks on the windows. I hate the look of those "sticks", but it's a great design for use of them.
Couple of other thoughts as I am back in town, and reading this again:You can buy Stain BASE at the ReStore. Then take it to Lowe's or a big box store, have them put the color stain you want in it for a couple of bucks tops, and make sure they shake the heck out of it.

NEVER shake Poly. It's a nightmare. Not that I would know..... :bag:

For the windows "sweating". In a LOWER END RENTAL, you can get a sheet of Plexiglas, drill a number of holes out around the sides, Run a bead of CLEAR caulk around the outside of the Wooden sash, put the plexi on it, and screw it into place through your holes, where the Caulk forms a gasket sealing the Plexi to the wood, and creates a pocket of air in front of the Glass. This can Greatly increase your R factor on the windows, as you are only leaving say 2 inch wood exposed,, covering off your single pane glass. Doesn't look the greatest, but it works. Do it on the back of your home mud room, and be amazed when it is 10 degrees warmer in the room.

 
Living in Las Vegas which had been a very hot real estate market. It is softening up, prices are dropping a bit, builders are giving concessions.

I found a FSBO property that I am interested in and I think is underpriced. $289K for about 1500 sq. feet. Decent neighborhood on a nice lot.

I have a couple questions. First off, how much can I expect to negotiate the price down. If it were me, and I was pricing the house I would figure I want to sell it for $280, so I will offer it at $289. Would I be crazy to offer him $270 (approximately 90% of asking price)? If I don't use a realtor, how much does that save him/me? Can I work that into the equation as to why I am offering less?

I have A+ credit - a personal banker with B of A. Their rates seem pretty high as listed on the website (Quicken Home loans appears to be the most competetive lender out there right now), but might they do a lot of the paperwork for the sale of the house? If we try to do this deal without a RE agent, would you recommend a lawyer or a title company to do the paperwork?
I start on an REO at 70% of asking. I wouldn't do that to a homeowner, but a Builder? Game on. Generally, a Builder or a company isn't going to be emotionally attached. It's business, hit them with both barrels. Now, if it is a Small time builder, that does one or two a year, they are basically homeowners. Still, I don't know that I care, you have to be ready to walk away. As I could buy 20 properties a year, I'll walk away at any time for any reason if it is not a smoking hot deal. If this is your Dream House, just go get it, and be done with it. What's it worth to you? If this is THE dream house, what's $10K vs 5 years of your wife bringing up how you lost her dream house every month like clockwork?I am not a Loan guy, but understand that one of the Internet/mass mortgage companies is going to shop you all over creation. Have 10 of those guys run your credit 25 times each, and watch that nice credit score of yours drop. You will get it back up in a half year or so, just understand that it will happen.

No matter how it works, somewhere in all of this, you NEED a RE professional in this deal on your side. Maybe it is just your Loan Broker, or a Lawyer, or an Agent, or the Title company, but somewhere you NEED a professional on your side.

 
Update on fixing up my guesthouse:

The original contractor, while giving us an incredible deal, bailed out so it was back to the drawing board. Still having GCs and handymen come by then submitting their bids. Typically, about 50% never even end up submitting me a bid, odd because why would you come by spend about an hour, measure, write everything down, etc then NEVER even shoot me a bid?

Anyways, so far I like one more than the others but his offer is ~19k. What is the best way to determine if I am getting a good deal or not? We hope to rent the place out for $650 - $750 a month.

Thoughts.
Maybe I need to go to Texas, :drive: I could use some of that action. I know the frustration. Over the years, I have gotten countless contractors out on countless bids, and never heard from them again. I couldn't begin to tell you why they aren't interested? Wish I knew. If I came out, looked at the job, and knew I didn't want it, I would just say so, and walk away right there. I have always figured they got drunk (Contractors) and forgot about it.

Now you are looking at 2-2.5 years to pay off. Can you afford to do this out of pocket, or are you taking a loan?

 
Update on fixing up my guesthouse:

The original contractor, while giving us an incredible deal, bailed out so it was back to the drawing board. Still having GCs and handymen come by then submitting their bids. Typically, about 50% never even end up submitting me a bid, odd because why would you come by spend about an hour, measure, write everything down, etc then NEVER even shoot me a bid?

Anyways, so far I like one more than the others but his offer is ~19k. What is the best way to determine if I am getting a good deal or not? We hope to rent the place out for $650 - $750 a month.

Thoughts.
Maybe I need to go to Texas, :drive: I could use some of that action. I know the frustration. Over the years, I have gotten countless contractors out on countless bids, and never heard from them again. I couldn't begin to tell you why they aren't interested? Wish I knew. If I came out, looked at the job, and knew I didn't want it, I would just say so, and walk away right there. I have always figured they got drunk (Contractors) and forgot about it.

Now you are looking at 2-2.5 years to pay off. Can you afford to do this out of pocket, or are you taking a loan?
Sadly, this seems to be pretty universal. It boggles the mind to think someone would come out and spend about an hour, measuring, scanning over all the stuff, taking pictures, etc then *poof* NEVER hear from them again. Why not at least send me a bid for 100k? Better than wasting your time and doing nothing or simply get back to me and say "Sorry, can't do anything".I think I am going to skip the GC way. One was all set to go (11k - perfect price) then he vanished. I now get estimates between 19k and 35k, it's all insane.

Good friend knew of an illegal but he was in Mexico and just got back. My wife is latin and called and finally got in touch. They really do demo work, hang sheet rock, float/tape, etc but at $10 an hour and my friend saying they don't **** around, that sounds good to me. I am just going to have to do more work than I wanted. If I can save 5k or maybe almost 10k then it's worth not getting it down and renting it out.

I have the money (HELOC) so that isn't an issue, just don't want to get ripped off. I'll find an electrician and plumber and then go down the line.

I don't think the whole place is worth paying out of my pocket more than 15k but even some people in the biz tell me that I could make a profit (hope to get 650 max a month) will outweigh the loan amount (~200 a month) but still. Screw GC for now, will just do it step by step. I need to get the following resolved in order:

1. Get the water away from the guest house - North side will either need to put new sealant or have a drain installed running East then South behind structure. Install gutters and flashing issues with porch cover attached to detached guesthouse.

2. Sand concrete floor. Heard that sanding it down alone creates a big time mess (pulverise concrete reminds me of 911 when I was in NYC next to the towers, not a good site I want to see again) so will need to get that down. Will keep the cracks in concrete foundation and then stain it.

First two on my list. I am going to buy a saw since I will need to replace some of the 2x4, this is in another link (asking advice on what saw I should purchase, would like your opinion).

Edit: Scheduled to speak with this GC who gave me the 19k bid and will flat out tell him no can do with that price. If he can go down a nice chuck though it can work but I am not counting on it.

 
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Update on fixing up my guesthouse:

The original contractor, while giving us an incredible deal, bailed out so it was back to the drawing board. Still having GCs and handymen come by then submitting their bids. Typically, about 50% never even end up submitting me a bid, odd because why would you come by spend about an hour, measure, write everything down, etc then NEVER even shoot me a bid?

Anyways, so far I like one more than the others but his offer is ~19k. What is the best way to determine if I am getting a good deal or not? We hope to rent the place out for $650 - $750 a month.

Thoughts.
Maybe I need to go to Texas, :drive: I could use some of that action. I know the frustration. Over the years, I have gotten countless contractors out on countless bids, and never heard from them again. I couldn't begin to tell you why they aren't interested? Wish I knew. If I came out, looked at the job, and knew I didn't want it, I would just say so, and walk away right there. I have always figured they got drunk (Contractors) and forgot about it.

Now you are looking at 2-2.5 years to pay off. Can you afford to do this out of pocket, or are you taking a loan?
Sadly, this seems to be pretty universal. It boggles the mind to think someone would come out and spend about an hour, measuring, scanning over all the stuff, taking pictures, etc then *poof* NEVER hear from them again. Why not at least send me a bid for 100k? Better than wasting your time and doing nothing or simply get back to me and say "Sorry, can't do anything".I think I am going to skip the GC way. One was all set to go (11k - perfect price) then he vanished. I now get estimates between 19k and 35k, it's all insane.

Good friend knew of an illegal but he was in Mexico and just got back. My wife is latin and called and finally got in touch. They really do demo work, hang sheet rock, float/tape, etc but at $10 an hour and my friend saying they don't **** around, that sounds good to me. I am just going to have to do more work than I wanted. If I can save 5k or maybe almost 10k then it's worth not getting it down and renting it out.

I have the money (HELOC) so that isn't an issue, just don't want to get ripped off. I'll find an electrician and plumber and then go down the line.

I don't think the whole place is worth paying out of my pocket more than 15k but even some people in the biz tell me that I could make a profit (hope to get 650 max a month) will outweigh the loan amount (~200 a month) but still. Screw GC for now, will just do it step by step. I need to get the following resolved in order:

1. Get the water away from the guest house - North side will either need to put new sealant or have a drain installed running East then South behind structure. Install gutters and flashing issues with porch cover attached to detached guesthouse.

2. Sand concrete floor. Heard that sanding it down alone creates a big time mess (pulverise concrete reminds me of 911 when I was in NYC next to the towers, not a good site I want to see again) so will need to get that down. Will keep the cracks in concrete foundation and then stain it.

2:30 am for me, but HUH???? What are you trying to do here? Remember, the more details, the better.

First two on my list. I am going to buy a saw since I will need to replace some of the 2x4, this is in another link (asking advice on what saw I should purchase, would like your opinion).

Edit: Scheduled to speak with this GC who gave me the 19k bid and will flat out tell him no can do with that price. If he can go down a nice chuck though it can work but I am not counting on it.
Well, now that you are going at it.....I am not a contractor, nor am I licensed in your area, but really, I could do a 600 ft area with my own hands and my own people in less than a heartbeat. Not an issue.

I invite you (like I invited Random, but he has decided not to) to use this thread as a personal blog/diary of what you are doing.

If you just explain VERY WELL what you are doing, I would be happy to help you in every way.

I can't do the loan stuff, I am terrible at the finance part if you follow ANY Investor advice (I don't do what I should when it comes to the mantra at all), but if you want to tear something up with your own hands (or mind if you hire it out), I am your man.

I could easily walk you through a 600 sqft rehab with my eyes closed. There was nothing on your list I couldn't do.

If you want the help, I would be happy to post what I can, only you have to be very detailed so I can "see" your rehab.

Random wasn't interested, but I would be happy to help you be the "GC" from thousands of miles away.

The actual nuts and bolts I can do, with the Finance/buy/sell stuff I am somewhat out of my element. I can repair just about anything.

 
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Update on fixing up my guesthouse:

The original contractor, while giving us an incredible deal, bailed out so it was back to the drawing board. Still having GCs and handymen come by then submitting their bids. Typically, about 50% never even end up submitting me a bid, odd because why would you come by spend about an hour, measure, write everything down, etc then NEVER even shoot me a bid?

Anyways, so far I like one more than the others but his offer is ~19k. What is the best way to determine if I am getting a good deal or not? We hope to rent the place out for $650 - $750 a month.

Thoughts.
Maybe I need to go to Texas, :drive: I could use some of that action. I know the frustration. Over the years, I have gotten countless contractors out on countless bids, and never heard from them again. I couldn't begin to tell you why they aren't interested? Wish I knew. If I came out, looked at the job, and knew I didn't want it, I would just say so, and walk away right there. I have always figured they got drunk (Contractors) and forgot about it.

Now you are looking at 2-2.5 years to pay off. Can you afford to do this out of pocket, or are you taking a loan?
Sadly, this seems to be pretty universal. It boggles the mind to think someone would come out and spend about an hour, measuring, scanning over all the stuff, taking pictures, etc then *poof* NEVER hear from them again. Why not at least send me a bid for 100k? Better than wasting your time and doing nothing or simply get back to me and say "Sorry, can't do anything".I think I am going to skip the GC way. One was all set to go (11k - perfect price) then he vanished. I now get estimates between 19k and 35k, it's all insane.

Good friend knew of an illegal but he was in Mexico and just got back. My wife is latin and called and finally got in touch. They really do demo work, hang sheet rock, float/tape, etc but at $10 an hour and my friend saying they don't **** around, that sounds good to me. I am just going to have to do more work than I wanted. If I can save 5k or maybe almost 10k then it's worth not getting it down and renting it out.

I have the money (HELOC) so that isn't an issue, just don't want to get ripped off. I'll find an electrician and plumber and then go down the line.

I don't think the whole place is worth paying out of my pocket more than 15k but even some people in the biz tell me that I could make a profit (hope to get 650 max a month) will outweigh the loan amount (~200 a month) but still. Screw GC for now, will just do it step by step. I need to get the following resolved in order:

1. Get the water away from the guest house - North side will either need to put new sealant or have a drain installed running East then South behind structure. Install gutters and flashing issues with porch cover attached to detached guesthouse.

2. Sand concrete floor. Heard that sanding it down alone creates a big time mess (pulverise concrete reminds me of 911 when I was in NYC next to the towers, not a good site I want to see again) so will need to get that down. Will keep the cracks in concrete foundation and then stain it.

2:30 am for me, but HUH???? What are you trying to do here? Remember, the more details, the better.

First two on my list. I am going to buy a saw since I will need to replace some of the 2x4, this is in another link (asking advice on what saw I should purchase, would like your opinion).

Edit: Scheduled to speak with this GC who gave me the 19k bid and will flat out tell him no can do with that price. If he can go down a nice chuck though it can work but I am not counting on it.
Well, now that you are going at it.....I am not a contractor, nor am I licensed in your area, but really, I could do a 600 ft area with my own hands and my own people in less than a heartbeat. Not an issue.

I invite you (like I invited Random, but he has decided not to) to use this thread as a personal blog/diary of what you are doing.

If you just explain VERY WELL what you are doing, I would be happy to help you in every way.

I can't do the loan stuff, I am terrible at the finance part if you follow ANY Investor advice (I don't do what I should when it comes to the mantra at all), but if you want to tear something up with your own hands (or mind if you hire it out), I am your man.

I could easily walk you through a 600 sqft rehab with my eyes closed. There was nothing on your list I couldn't do.

If you want the help, I would be happy to post what I can, only you have to be very detailed so I can "see" your rehab.

Random wasn't interested, but I would be happy to help you be the "GC" from thousands of miles away.

The actual nuts and bolts I can do, with the Finance/buy/sell stuff I am somewhat out of my element. I can repair just about anything.
Thanks MA. RE:#2. The floor is concrete and instead of laying down tile or carpet or wood, I simply want to have it sanded to smooth out the rough spots then stained. I think stained concrete is the future (if you bypass hardwood floors), the thing is I don't know how to do it so I may hire someone.If you walk East into the side of my backyard you will see the guesthouse to the North the brick wall sits against another property that slops down so water collects and rests against my wall which then water can seep into my place. I may just reapply sealant instead of installing a drain that whisks water away from the North part of my guest house and running it East then South of my place to disperse the water. We shall see, just a ton of foudation and concrete to work with.

 
Little update her for ya. The kitchen (pics above) has been totally demo'd. Cabinets gone, soffet gone, ect. We have to do a complete redesign. We were originally just going to put the stove on wall A (left wall when facing the window - glass cupboard doors) and fridge on wall C. Move wall cupboards accordingly, eliminating the glass door ones, simple solution.But, the dishwasher door wouldn't open with the stove there. So we were going to move the dishwasher to the other side of the sink. Easy enough. But the cabinets are all one unit. We figured it would require too much work and look like a hack job to disassemble, cut, and attempt to reassemble so we took the wall measurements to HD/Lowes.

All new cupboards (stock, not custom) came back at $1200 for design 1. The arrangement is fridge on wall B in the AB corner, dw on wall B, other side of the sink, and stove in cutout on wall C. This leaves very little counter/cupboard space.

Design 2 was a little more, $1700 total, but utilized wall D (the one with the flashlight "thing") for the stove with countertops and cupboards around the stove. Wall A would be left empty (although we all thought about adding cupboards afterwards maybe another $200), dishwasher would be left where it is in the pics, and wall C would have fridge in the cutout. We all pretty much liked this layout better, with or without adding cupboards on wall A (not sure how this never got in the design, maybe there's a reason).

Wife is going to check out Menards today for designs/prices on their in stock stuff and we'll go from there.

Other notes:

We have grass comming up in the bare spots that were "patchmastered" (I love this stuff)

New tub and surround are in the downstairs bath

First floor is painted (except kitchen, one bedroom, and the bathroom) Ended up going with MAB with the paint because a friends mother in law runs the local one and is giving us the paint at a much better discount than our SW.

Powerwashed the house, deck and hottub. Amazing results.

Total money spent so far $1850. Includes:

$300 Tile for kitchen and bath and backerboard for bath.

$200 in paint

$800 bathroom (tub and surround, vanity, faucets, and plumbing)

$100 landscaping (patchmaster, hose, sprinkler, roundup)

And lots of misc stuff.

Still looks like we're going to keep it at/under 10K.

 
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Also came across this website for home valuations. I know its nothing to hang your hat on, but it did confirm our initial "guestimates". 115-127 with 20k in improvements. Figured if we hired everything out it would cost at least 20k. Even at 10k in improvements we're still looking at 109-121.

eta - that site flat out sucks. disreguard.

 
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Update on fixing up my guesthouse:

The original contractor, while giving us an incredible deal, bailed out so it was back to the drawing board. Still having GCs and handymen come by then submitting their bids. Typically, about 50% never even end up submitting me a bid, odd because why would you come by spend about an hour, measure, write everything down, etc then NEVER even shoot me a bid?

Anyways, so far I like one more than the others but his offer is ~19k. What is the best way to determine if I am getting a good deal or not? We hope to rent the place out for $650 - $750 a month.

Thoughts.
Maybe I need to go to Texas, :drive: I could use some of that action. I know the frustration. Over the years, I have gotten countless contractors out on countless bids, and never heard from them again. I couldn't begin to tell you why they aren't interested? Wish I knew. If I came out, looked at the job, and knew I didn't want it, I would just say so, and walk away right there. I have always figured they got drunk (Contractors) and forgot about it.

Now you are looking at 2-2.5 years to pay off. Can you afford to do this out of pocket, or are you taking a loan?
Sadly, this seems to be pretty universal. It boggles the mind to think someone would come out and spend about an hour, measuring, scanning over all the stuff, taking pictures, etc then *poof* NEVER hear from them again. Why not at least send me a bid for 100k? Better than wasting your time and doing nothing or simply get back to me and say "Sorry, can't do anything".I think I am going to skip the GC way. One was all set to go (11k - perfect price) then he vanished. I now get estimates between 19k and 35k, it's all insane.

Good friend knew of an illegal but he was in Mexico and just got back. My wife is latin and called and finally got in touch. They really do demo work, hang sheet rock, float/tape, etc but at $10 an hour and my friend saying they don't **** around, that sounds good to me. I am just going to have to do more work than I wanted. If I can save 5k or maybe almost 10k then it's worth not getting it down and renting it out.

I have the money (HELOC) so that isn't an issue, just don't want to get ripped off. I'll find an electrician and plumber and then go down the line.

I don't think the whole place is worth paying out of my pocket more than 15k but even some people in the biz tell me that I could make a profit (hope to get 650 max a month) will outweigh the loan amount (~200 a month) but still. Screw GC for now, will just do it step by step. I need to get the following resolved in order:

1. Get the water away from the guest house - North side will either need to put new sealant or have a drain installed running East then South behind structure. Install gutters and flashing issues with porch cover attached to detached guesthouse.

2. Sand concrete floor. Heard that sanding it down alone creates a big time mess (pulverise concrete reminds me of 911 when I was in NYC next to the towers, not a good site I want to see again) so will need to get that down. Will keep the cracks in concrete foundation and then stain it.

First two on my list. I am going to buy a saw since I will need to replace some of the 2x4, this is in another link (asking advice on what saw I should purchase, would like your opinion).

Edit: Scheduled to speak with this GC who gave me the 19k bid and will flat out tell him no can do with that price. If he can go down a nice chuck though it can work but I am not counting on it.
Have that GC itemize his $19K and tell him you'll give him the job to do Items 2 and 4 but you're doing 1, 3, and 5 yourself. Oh, and 2 and 4 is $7K.
 
Have that GC itemize his $19K and tell him you'll give him the job to do Items 2 and 4 but you're doing 1, 3, and 5 yourself. Oh, and 2 and 4 is $7K.
:goodposting: We are Commercial GC's and whenever you put an estimate together with a long list of jobs, obviously there's more money in some areas than others.

I'm meeting a Mason tonight to look at my house for a few things including:

Extending the Chimney, Blue Stone entry / landing, some Stone siding work.

I have some wish list items that I'm going to ask him to bid on including a Paver Patio in the back and possibly some driveway work and possibly siding a much larger portion of the house in stone.

I want to see the WHOLE quote, before I decide on exactly what I want Him to do....

But, you have to figure the individual prices will be his best prices or lower given a much larger total job..... Sure, maybe he will have to adjust his individual prices per item but, that's a good sign.

Now this guy is the Sub and I'm acting as my own GC. Hoping for the best!!!!

 
What a week.

I've been tormented by local investor-types this week on the local message boards for our RE clubs.

First we had a realtor whining about birddogs. For those who don't know, birddogs find properties for investors and get paid a finders' fee. The realtor had an issue as the birddog was "Dealing / Brokering" real estate, in essence, and taking a fee without a license.

Let's just say we lit him or her up. I won't go into the arguments because I'm argued out, but let's just say that while she has a legal point by the letter of the law, there's so many ways to do this legally AND no one is going to prosecute someone "tipping off" an investor that Joe Blow wants to sell his house.

There was also a second discussion about selling a seller held second mortgage back to the investor after closing, and the ethics and legality of selling a note after closing.

I may come back to this, but I'm weary of it.

 
Update on fixing up my guesthouse:

The original contractor, while giving us an incredible deal, bailed out so it was back to the drawing board. Still having GCs and handymen come by then submitting their bids. Typically, about 50% never even end up submitting me a bid, odd because why would you come by spend about an hour, measure, write everything down, etc then NEVER even shoot me a bid?

Anyways, so far I like one more than the others but his offer is ~19k. What is the best way to determine if I am getting a good deal or not? We hope to rent the place out for $650 - $750 a month.

Thoughts.
Maybe I need to go to Texas, :drive: I could use some of that action. I know the frustration. Over the years, I have gotten countless contractors out on countless bids, and never heard from them again. I couldn't begin to tell you why they aren't interested? Wish I knew. If I came out, looked at the job, and knew I didn't want it, I would just say so, and walk away right there. I have always figured they got drunk (Contractors) and forgot about it.

Now you are looking at 2-2.5 years to pay off. Can you afford to do this out of pocket, or are you taking a loan?
Sadly, this seems to be pretty universal. It boggles the mind to think someone would come out and spend about an hour, measuring, scanning over all the stuff, taking pictures, etc then *poof* NEVER hear from them again. Why not at least send me a bid for 100k? Better than wasting your time and doing nothing or simply get back to me and say "Sorry, can't do anything".I think I am going to skip the GC way. One was all set to go (11k - perfect price) then he vanished. I now get estimates between 19k and 35k, it's all insane.

Good friend knew of an illegal but he was in Mexico and just got back. My wife is latin and called and finally got in touch. They really do demo work, hang sheet rock, float/tape, etc but at $10 an hour and my friend saying they don't **** around, that sounds good to me. I am just going to have to do more work than I wanted. If I can save 5k or maybe almost 10k then it's worth not getting it down and renting it out.

I have the money (HELOC) so that isn't an issue, just don't want to get ripped off. I'll find an electrician and plumber and then go down the line.

I don't think the whole place is worth paying out of my pocket more than 15k but even some people in the biz tell me that I could make a profit (hope to get 650 max a month) will outweigh the loan amount (~200 a month) but still. Screw GC for now, will just do it step by step. I need to get the following resolved in order:

1. Get the water away from the guest house - North side will either need to put new sealant or have a drain installed running East then South behind structure. Install gutters and flashing issues with porch cover attached to detached guesthouse.

2. Sand concrete floor. Heard that sanding it down alone creates a big time mess (pulverise concrete reminds me of 911 when I was in NYC next to the towers, not a good site I want to see again) so will need to get that down. Will keep the cracks in concrete foundation and then stain it.

2:30 am for me, but HUH???? What are you trying to do here? Remember, the more details, the better.

First two on my list. I am going to buy a saw since I will need to replace some of the 2x4, this is in another link (asking advice on what saw I should purchase, would like your opinion).

Edit: Scheduled to speak with this GC who gave me the 19k bid and will flat out tell him no can do with that price. If he can go down a nice chuck though it can work but I am not counting on it.
Well, now that you are going at it.....I am not a contractor, nor am I licensed in your area, but really, I could do a 600 ft area with my own hands and my own people in less than a heartbeat. Not an issue.

I invite you (like I invited Random, but he has decided not to) to use this thread as a personal blog/diary of what you are doing.

If you just explain VERY WELL what you are doing, I would be happy to help you in every way.

I can't do the loan stuff, I am terrible at the finance part if you follow ANY Investor advice (I don't do what I should when it comes to the mantra at all), but if you want to tear something up with your own hands (or mind if you hire it out), I am your man.

I could easily walk you through a 600 sqft rehab with my eyes closed. There was nothing on your list I couldn't do.

If you want the help, I would be happy to post what I can, only you have to be very detailed so I can "see" your rehab.

Random wasn't interested, but I would be happy to help you be the "GC" from thousands of miles away.

The actual nuts and bolts I can do, with the Finance/buy/sell stuff I am somewhat out of my element. I can repair just about anything.
Thanks MA. RE:#2. The floor is concrete and instead of laying down tile or carpet or wood, I simply want to have it sanded to smooth out the rough spots then stained. I think stained concrete is the future (if you bypass hardwood floors), the thing is I don't know how to do it so I may hire someone.If you walk East into the side of my backyard you will see the guesthouse to the North the brick wall sits against another property that slops down so water collects and rests against my wall which then water can seep into my place. I may just reapply sealant instead of installing a drain that whisks water away from the North part of my guest house and running it East then South of my place to disperse the water. We shall see, just a ton of foudation and concrete to work with.
Stained Concrete could very well be the wave of the future. I am seeing more and more of it in my backwater area. Ultimately, it's most likely a fad like the DARK wood cabinets and Orange and goldenrod counter tops of the 70's.I looked at it at one point, and to get any kind of pattern that doesn't show just the flaws takes work. Have you thought about just painting them with a Grey (or whatever) floor paint?

About the water collecting by the house. Your EASY fix would be to just bring in fill dirt, pile it up, and COMPACT it, so the water stays a couple or more feet away from your building. That might seriously be enough.

If you want to do it right, this is EASY. You will need 6 inch drain tubing (it's black, ribbed, and has "slits" all along it. it joins together with connectors, so figure out how far you have to go), Gravel (You should be able to get even 23 tons of "73" stone delivered in a dump truck for under $200.00, I have no clue how much you will need, but that will be more than enough, tell the Gravel place what you are doing, they will know how much you need, just get a little extra), some landscaping fabric, a strong young man or two for cheap (say $50.00 each), some shovels, and plenty of liquid for those guys. You can do this WHOLE project right for say $450.00 which includes materials and labor. You will need to supervise them, so plan on doing it on a weekend, it can be done in two days easy. And this is if you have to do two sides, say a 20' and a 30' side, and drain it away. It will be cheaper to just do one side.

NOW, if you don't want the guys to help you, you can dig it yourself (This would suck), or you can rent a trencher, and pound it out in a day by yourself. The rental will be over $100.00 and you will have to figure out how to transport it if the rental doesn't come on a trailer. Even if it does, you will need to haul it around. It's better to hire a couple of guys. One guy will never get it done, and give up. You could be the second guy, but really you should be the 3rd guy that does very little work, but grabs bottles of water, or drags out the hose when needed. Drink lots of water.

I've done both, I's be hiring the young guys to do say 3-5 hours together for 6-10 man hours at say $100.00 Just get good ones, and not cracked up street urchins. I post at the local college when my normal labor force isn't enough. I have also gone to a Temp agency, paid say $10.00 an hour for guys, where the agency pays them and provides insurance should they get hurt. They will not get hurt on this project just digging.

CALL THE UTILITY companies, and have them mark the service lines on your property. You will be paying if you slice through a line, and they have to mark them for free. It takes 2-3 days but they are happy to do it.

Assuming you have no Utilities to worry about, get the guys digging (Or do it yourself, which sucks). In a perfect world, you want to dig down 24 inches, but really 18 inches is fine. Dig about 4 inches off the building on the close side of the trench, about 8 inches wide. The outside of the trench should sit about a foot off the building. This will be some digging. A 30 foot run will take a couple of hours with decent diggers. Keep them moving, Digging this out is a half day job for a few people.

Now, dig that same trench out to where ever you want the water to dump. Hopefully you can get it to an alley, or safe spot. If you have no where, post back, and we can set you up with a yard well.

Once the trench is set, put the landscape fabric down first, you want to line the trench and leave extra above the ground. Now fill in with just enough gravel to cover the bottom. Lay in the Drain tubing, all connected together, cover the tubing with Gravel so you can't see it. Then fold the Landscape fabric over the gravel so it over laps. Back fill with the dirt, using all the extra dirt in that first 4 inches against the building to "Slope" the ground away from the building, and towards the drain.

The reason you use the landscape fabric is to keep the dirt out of the gravel. The gravel is a Racetrack for the water to get into the drain FAST. If it clogs up with dirt, you are wasting your time, money, and effort here.

Outside of the digging, this is a very easy job for the do it yourselfer.

I just went back and looked, and saw that you are talking about 330 total sqft. So figure it's 20x16???? You can take care of a 20 foot run with a runoff.

 
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Little update her for ya. The kitchen (pics above) has been totally demo'd. Cabinets gone, soffet gone, ect. We have to do a complete redesign. We were originally just going to put the stove on wall A (left wall when facing the window - glass cupboard doors) and fridge on wall C. Move wall cupboards accordingly, eliminating the glass door ones, simple solution.Ouch, you just greatly expanded your budget if you now need all new cabinets. :eek:

But, the dishwasher door wouldn't open with the stove there. So we were going to move the dishwasher to the other side of the sink. Easy enough. But the cabinets are all one unit. We figured it would require too much work and look like a hack job to disassemble, cut, and attempt to reassemble so we took the wall measurements to HD/Lowes.

It doesn't even matter if it is Gas or Electric, Moving a stove is always easier than moving the Dishwasher and water lines.

All new cupboards (stock, not custom) came back at $1200 for design 1. The arrangement is fridge on wall B in the AB corner, dw on wall B, other side of the sink, and stove in cutout on wall C. This leaves very little counter/cupboard space.

That is $1,200.00 you didn't have to spend before. That is a hit.

Design 2 was a little more, $1700 total, but utilized wall D (the one with the flashlight "thing") for the stove with countertops and cupboards around the stove. Wall A would be left empty (although we all thought about adding cupboards afterwards maybe another $200), dishwasher would be left where it is in the pics, and wall C would have fridge in the cutout. We all pretty much liked this layout better, with or without adding cupboards on wall A (not sure how this never got in the design, maybe there's a reason).

Wife is going to check out Menards today for designs/prices on their in stock stuff and we'll go from there.

I wish you could have just decided to work around the cabinets. You are now looking at $1,200-$2K that you will never recapture in your flip. Certainly going from Wooden Cabinets to painted stock ones.

Other notes:

We have grass comming up in the bare spots that were "patchmastered" (I love this stuff)

New tub and surround are in the downstairs bath

First floor is painted (except kitchen, one bedroom, and the bathroom) Ended up going with MAB with the paint because a friends mother in law runs the local one and is giving us the paint at a much better discount than our SW.

Powerwashed the house, deck and hottub. Amazing results.

I remember that it was sided, correct? You can power wash away, but you really should Never powerwash a wood exterior covered in paint.

Total money spent so far $1850. Includes:

$300 Tile for kitchen and bath and backerboard for bath.

$200 in paint

$800 bathroom (tub and surround, vanity, faucets, and plumbing)

$100 landscaping (patchmaster, hose, sprinkler, roundup)

And lots of misc stuff.

Still looks like we're going to keep it at/under 10K.
Sounds like you are all over it. Keep it simple. Reuse anything and everything you can. Watch the Misc stuff, that's where you get killed, oh, and needing a couple grand for new cabinets. ;)
 
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Also came across this website for home valuations. I know its nothing to hang your hat on, but it did confirm our initial "guestimates". 115-127 with 20k in improvements. Figured if we hired everything out it would cost at least 20k. Even at 10k in improvements we're still looking at 109-121.

eta - that site flat out sucks. disreguard.
That does suck. However, it was nice to see that the recent sales it compared it to included some of the steals I've bought, and my Value was still good.
 
It was supposed to be a simple day of wearing sandals and showing a few houses. Maybe getting my Tivo somewhere below 80% full.

Had a Stove to have delivered. HHGregg should have had it Wednesday, so I drove up there, it wasn't available, so I said I would come back Thursday. It was a smoking hot deal, $189.00 for an electric stove. Came back Thursday, and it wasn't there, knocked $30.00 off the price. Came back Friday, it wasn't there, got free delivery, a free plug cord, and free installation for today. Met them early and got it put in the property that I am converting to an all electric unit.

Got a call that the neighbor next to one of my rentals just hit my Gas meter, broke it off, and drove away. Called the Gas company that I had a gas leak, and got over there. My Upstairs tenant and the Neighbor's girl friend are going at it verbally. I don't get mad very often, but everyone shut up once I got there and let everyone have it.

Gas guy shows up, luckily, it's my normal gas guy. Rebuilds everything, but I have a leak somewhere in the house. Talk him into just leaving the gas main on for me so I can work. He did it two days ago for me as well, so I could get some lines figured out before the inspector shut me down.

While this is going on, 4 cop cars roll up, as it turns out that a gal I rent to has 2 Children taken away by the Father with Custody that lives in Alabama. Sad thing is I know the father, and he is a worthless, lieing, stealing punk, who used to work for a guy I know, and was skimming the till weekly. But that's the way the court went on this one.

Right around this time, I get a call from the College Professor I just moved in that Water is pouring down the walls into the basement.

End of the day, I refitted some 50 feet of gas line to get the gas leak taken care of, tracked down the water leak, and took care of that as well.

But around 10 am today, I was about as frazzled as one person could be.

 
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Little update her for ya. The kitchen (pics above) has been totally demo'd. Cabinets gone, soffet gone, ect. We have to do a complete redesign. We were originally just going to put the stove on wall A (left wall when facing the window - glass cupboard doors) and fridge on wall C. Move wall cupboards accordingly, eliminating the glass door ones, simple solution.Ouch, you just greatly expanded your budget if you now need all new cabinets. :eek:

But, the dishwasher door wouldn't open with the stove there. So we were going to move the dishwasher to the other side of the sink. Easy enough. But the cabinets are all one unit. We figured it would require too much work and look like a hack job to disassemble, cut, and attempt to reassemble so we took the wall measurements to HD/Lowes.

It doesn't even matter if it is Gas or Electric, Moving a stove is always easier than moving the Dishwasher and water lines.

All new cupboards (stock, not custom) came back at $1200 for design 1. The arrangement is fridge on wall B in the AB corner, dw on wall B, other side of the sink, and stove in cutout on wall C. This leaves very little counter/cupboard space.

That is $1,200.00 you didn't have to spend before. That is a hit.

Design 2 was a little more, $1700 total, but utilized wall D (the one with the flashlight "thing") for the stove with countertops and cupboards around the stove. Wall A would be left empty (although we all thought about adding cupboards afterwards maybe another $200), dishwasher would be left where it is in the pics, and wall C would have fridge in the cutout. We all pretty much liked this layout better, with or without adding cupboards on wall A (not sure how this never got in the design, maybe there's a reason).

Wife is going to check out Menards today for designs/prices on their in stock stuff and we'll go from there.

I wish you could have just decided to work around the cabinets. You are now looking at $1,200-$2K that you will never recapture in your flip. Certainly going from Wooden Cabinets to painted stock ones.

Other notes:

We have grass comming up in the bare spots that were "patchmastered" (I love this stuff)

New tub and surround are in the downstairs bath

First floor is painted (except kitchen, one bedroom, and the bathroom) Ended up going with MAB with the paint because a friends mother in law runs the local one and is giving us the paint at a much better discount than our SW.

Powerwashed the house, deck and hottub. Amazing results.

I remember that it was sided, correct? You can power wash away, but you really should Never powerwash a wood exterior covered in paint.

Total money spent so far $1850. Includes:

$300 Tile for kitchen and bath and backerboard for bath.

$200 in paint

$800 bathroom (tub and surround, vanity, faucets, and plumbing)

$100 landscaping (patchmaster, hose, sprinkler, roundup)

And lots of misc stuff.

Still looks like we're going to keep it at/under 10K.
Sounds like you are all over it. Keep it simple. Reuse anything and everything you can. Watch the Misc stuff, that's where you get killed, oh, and needing a couple grand for new cabinets. ;)
I'm not really bummed about the cabinets at all. Originally we had planned on new cabinets, then decided to try to use what was there. Turns out there is no configuration in that kitchen that will have room for all three appliances without cutting into/rearranging the cabinet configuration. Thats why the "flashlight stand" thing was in there. Thats why we decided it would be 2k well spent.I really think the house will show 10x better with a completely new kitchen. The new cabinets will be the stock oak Menards carries.

Also, I drove by the house behind ours thats for sale and picked up a brochure. The house is very comparable to our flip and was listed at 187,500. :eek: . No way do I expect ours to list at that but it does make me feel pretty good about expecting 115-125.

 
Little update her for ya. The kitchen (pics above) has been totally demo'd. Cabinets gone, soffet gone, ect. We have to do a complete redesign. We were originally just going to put the stove on wall A (left wall when facing the window - glass cupboard doors) and fridge on wall C. Move wall cupboards accordingly, eliminating the glass door ones, simple solution.Ouch, you just greatly expanded your budget if you now need all new cabinets. :eek:

But, the dishwasher door wouldn't open with the stove there. So we were going to move the dishwasher to the other side of the sink. Easy enough. But the cabinets are all one unit. We figured it would require too much work and look like a hack job to disassemble, cut, and attempt to reassemble so we took the wall measurements to HD/Lowes.

It doesn't even matter if it is Gas or Electric, Moving a stove is always easier than moving the Dishwasher and water lines.

All new cupboards (stock, not custom) came back at $1200 for design 1. The arrangement is fridge on wall B in the AB corner, dw on wall B, other side of the sink, and stove in cutout on wall C. This leaves very little counter/cupboard space.

That is $1,200.00 you didn't have to spend before. That is a hit.

Design 2 was a little more, $1700 total, but utilized wall D (the one with the flashlight "thing") for the stove with countertops and cupboards around the stove. Wall A would be left empty (although we all thought about adding cupboards afterwards maybe another $200), dishwasher would be left where it is in the pics, and wall C would have fridge in the cutout. We all pretty much liked this layout better, with or without adding cupboards on wall A (not sure how this never got in the design, maybe there's a reason).

Wife is going to check out Menards today for designs/prices on their in stock stuff and we'll go from there.

I wish you could have just decided to work around the cabinets. You are now looking at $1,200-$2K that you will never recapture in your flip. Certainly going from Wooden Cabinets to painted stock ones.

Other notes:

We have grass comming up in the bare spots that were "patchmastered" (I love this stuff)

New tub and surround are in the downstairs bath

First floor is painted (except kitchen, one bedroom, and the bathroom) Ended up going with MAB with the paint because a friends mother in law runs the local one and is giving us the paint at a much better discount than our SW.

Powerwashed the house, deck and hottub. Amazing results.

I remember that it was sided, correct? You can power wash away, but you really should Never powerwash a wood exterior covered in paint.

Total money spent so far $1850. Includes:

$300 Tile for kitchen and bath and backerboard for bath.

$200 in paint

$800 bathroom (tub and surround, vanity, faucets, and plumbing)

$100 landscaping (patchmaster, hose, sprinkler, roundup)

And lots of misc stuff.

Still looks like we're going to keep it at/under 10K.
Sounds like you are all over it. Keep it simple. Reuse anything and everything you can. Watch the Misc stuff, that's where you get killed, oh, and needing a couple grand for new cabinets. ;)
I'm not really bummed about the cabinets at all. Originally we had planned on new cabinets, then decided to try to use what was there. Turns out there is no configuration in that kitchen that will have room for all three appliances without cutting into/rearranging the cabinet configuration. Thats why the "flashlight stand" thing was in there. Thats why we decided it would be 2k well spent.I really think the house will show 10x better with a completely new kitchen. The new cabinets will be the stock oak Menards carries.

Also, I drove by the house behind ours thats for sale and picked up a brochure. The house is very comparable to our flip and was listed at 187,500. :eek: . No way do I expect ours to list at that but it does make me feel pretty good about expecting 115-125.
When the time comes, Figure out the Market, and come in 2-3% under the market, even 5%. It will go like gang busters. Don't count on the pricing of that house behind you as it might sit on the market some 250 days if it is way over going.Actually, the money you save on windows could be Cabinets. I am glad you are getting the Oak ones, that kitchen should POP! :eek:

 
looked up mu house on zillow and its down again.

1 week change: -$41,827

Last updated: 07/24/2006
Although LA is one of those markets that could "burst", Zillow is a big steaming pile of ....Worthless. They have a LONG way to go to be worthwhile.

 
Getting rid of the Flashlight stand is a HUGE plus.

Was there anyway to put a base cabinet under it and use it, or did it kill the room?
It was a 1 foot countertop attached to the wall with an L brace. The delemma with keeping the existing cabinets and adding stuff to the wall with the flashlight countertop was that the cabinets wouldn't match. That and the doors on the original cabinets had some funky measurements so we couldn't replace the doors either.The kitchen will be a huge draw to the house when finished, instead of being a detraction.

Also, we found our first "problem" this morning. We had a pretty nasty storm blow through last night (probably the same one you had) and we had some water in the basement. Appears to have come up through a floor drain. Not sure what caused it to do this or what to do about it.

 
Getting rid of the Flashlight stand is a HUGE plus.

Was there anyway to put a base cabinet under it and use it, or did it kill the room?
It was a 1 foot countertop attached to the wall with an L brace. The delemma with keeping the existing cabinets and adding stuff to the wall with the flashlight countertop was that the cabinets wouldn't match. That and the doors on the original cabinets had some funky measurements so we couldn't replace the doors either.The kitchen will be a huge draw to the house when finished, instead of being a detraction.

Also, we found our first "problem" this morning. We had a pretty nasty storm blow through last night (probably the same one you had) and we had some water in the basement. Appears to have come up through a floor drain. Not sure what caused it to do this or what to do about it.
What you do is hire a Sewer guy to come out and just take care of it. I personally own a Big Sewer snake, and MORE than half the time I hire the guy to come out. For your first time dealing with it, Please don't go and rent one, but if you do, you need the monster that stands some 3 feet high with the foot peddle. This will be FAR more trouble than it is worth.

Shop around, the pricing is very different in my area. "Roto Router" is INSANE on the cost. Find a guy that just does Sewers in the phone book, and get your best price. Shop this service, it can be the difference of $100.00 or more between them.

Ideally, you will pay right around $100.00 out the door, maybe a little more, and say $5.00 extra when he breaks your cap inside the house and bills you. Little stuff. If there is EVER a guy to build a relationship with as a LL, it is the sewer guy. :thumbup:

Ideally you have a Clean out in the yard, as that will save you some money if he doesn't have to go to the basement. However it works, he could very likely come out, run the snake for under 10 minutes, bill you a C-note, and be on his way.

DEMAND a Warranty on his work. Anyone respectable will give you one, and it's about 45-90 days around here. Even if the Sewer is clogged with tree roots, you can beat them into 30 days. Don't back down on this point.

At most, the guy works an hour, Cusses like a Sailor yelling all over the area as kids run around, and bills you a C-Note.

Watch him, and if you want to in the future, do it yourself, it's not rocket science in the slightest. I did it myself for years, but it's a hassle, I just pay a guy now.

Step #2 is to install a "back-flow valve" on that floor drain, and it will never back up again EVER. I have never understood why everyone doesn't do this. We have houses in my town that have the Sewer, and I mean SEWER back up into their homes multiple times a year. Never understood this. In an emergency, if you have no valve in the sewer line, or if the valve fails, you can use a plastic bag filled with rags to stop back-flow through the sewer.

If you are squeamish or prissy, doing this project on the sewer might be too disgusting for you, it's not hard, but dirty, and you know that line carries toilet waste. A Floor drain will be clean, just more Floor to break out. Do rent the Jack Hammer. Take a look at the process:

Install Sewer Back Flow Valve

With a good clean out from the sewer guy, I wouldn't begin to worry about the valve on a Flip, no way, it's just the right thing to do in YOUR home or Rental.

 
Getting rid of the Flashlight stand is a HUGE plus.

Was there anyway to put a base cabinet under it and use it, or did it kill the room?
It was a 1 foot countertop attached to the wall with an L brace. The delemma with keeping the existing cabinets and adding stuff to the wall with the flashlight countertop was that the cabinets wouldn't match. That and the doors on the original cabinets had some funky measurements so we couldn't replace the doors either.The kitchen will be a huge draw to the house when finished, instead of being a detraction.

Also, we found our first "problem" this morning. We had a pretty nasty storm blow through last night (probably the same one you had) and we had some water in the basement. Appears to have come up through a floor drain. Not sure what caused it to do this or what to do about it.
What you do is hire a Sewer guy to come out and just take care of it. I personally own a Big Sewer snake, and MORE than half the time I hire the guy to come out. For your first time dealing with it, Please don't go and rent one, but if you do, you need the monster that stands some 3 feet high with the foot peddle. This will be FAR more trouble than it is worth.

Shop around, the pricing is very different in my area. "Roto Router" is INSANE on the cost. Find a guy that just does Sewers in the phone book, and get your best price. Shop this service, it can be the difference of $100.00 or more between them.

Ideally, you will pay right around $100.00 out the door, maybe a little more, and say $5.00 extra when he breaks your cap inside the house and bills you. Little stuff. If there is EVER a guy to build a relationship with as a LL, it is the sewer guy. :thumbup:

Ideally you have a Clean out in the yard, as that will save you some money if he doesn't have to go to the basement. However it works, he could very likely come out, run the snake for under 10 minutes, bill you a C-note, and be on his way.

DEMAND a Warranty on his work. Anyone respectable will give you one, and it's about 45-90 days around here. Even if the Sewer is clogged with tree roots, you can beat them into 30 days. Don't back down on this point.

At most, the guy works an hour, Cusses like a Sailor yelling all over the area as kids run around, and bills you a C-Note.

Watch him, and if you want to in the future, do it yourself, it's not rocket science in the slightest. I did it myself for years, but it's a hassle, I just pay a guy now.

Step #2 is to install a "back-flow valve" on that floor drain, and it will never back up again EVER. I have never understood why everyone doesn't do this. We have houses in my town that have the Sewer, and I mean SEWER back up into their homes multiple times a year. Never understood this. In an emergency, if you have no valve in the sewer line, or if the valve fails, you can use a plastic bag filled with rags to stop back-flow through the sewer.

If you are squeamish or prissy, doing this project on the sewer might be too disgusting for you, it's not hard, but dirty, and you know that line carries toilet waste. A Floor drain will be clean, just more Floor to break out. Do rent the Jack Hammer. Take a look at the process:

Install Sewer Back Flow Valve

With a good clean out from the sewer guy, I wouldn't begin to worry about the valve on a Flip, no way, it's just the right thing to do in YOUR home or Rental.
Do you still have standing water in the Basement???
 
looked up mu house on zillow and its down again.

1 week change: -$41,827

Last updated: 07/24/2006
Although LA is one of those markets that could "burst", Zillow is a big steaming pile of ....Worthless. They have a LONG way to go to be worthwhile.
well its still up $150,000 from when i bought it.
 
Thanks Mike on your reply about installing the drain, etc. Here's my current situation:

1. I have found a few Mexican crews who are willing to work on my place after hours which will be about 4 hours per day Mon - Sat and all day Sunday. They said they can get it done in 3 weeks, no worse than 4 weeks. Their labor cost is $3500 and they've got four guys waiting to start. I figured in about 4500 worth of material so the total for this part would be ~8k. (The concrete floor they will level but will get someone else to stain)

2. I already got two other Mexicans to redo my bathroom. Had to jack hammer the concrete since the existing pipes were on top of the concrete (concelled by wood which looked terrible) then reconfigured the pipes. Went with them to HD and got all the material (~400) including pipes, insulation, copper, baseshower, etc. Will be done by tomorrow. The whole bathroom and digging, etc cost me about $500. I can honestly say it would have taken me a lot longer doing this myself so it was worth it.

3. Another Mexican who works for elect construction company is will to do ALL electrical demo and upgrade for about 1k which to me sounds like a great deal. Alone all the parts costs will be ~500 so he is basically charging me 500 to do the labor.

Now, here's where it gets messy. #1 above they are waiting for me to get the bathroom and electical stuff upgraded before they start. I haven't paid them a cent or signed off but it's pretty much a done deal. The sticky part:

A previous GC who I haven't heard from in a few weeks (haven't mentioned this particular one before in the thread, not the same as the 11k quote GC) just called and sent me an e-mail wanting to do the whole thing for an INSANELY LOW amount. Honestly, if the stuff isn't stolen I don't know how he would make any money so if not stolen then is this a scam?

I would like your opinions on this before I contact him back. Obviously if he wants me to front him $$ then it could be a scam but if not, would I be crazy not to take up his offer?

Here's his e-mail:

After researching everything, I can do the job for $4800.00 This includes everything but the floor, and I have a very inexpensive concrete contractor that would like to set a time to come with me to see the floor. I am not sure if I told you, but my Grandmother had a stroke 18 days ago, so I was tied up dealing with that, and she passed away last week, so it has been a crazy couple of weeks, so sorry for the delay in getting back to you. All of your appliances will be brand new and warrantied, I don't like to use "reconditioned" or second hand things due to the future expense that they will run regarding repairs/replacement. The job will begin with a complete demo/popcorn scraping etc. Then repairing existing problems with walls and weater-sealing. Then I will go to the insulating phase, followed by wiring and plumbing issues. I have some plans on how to make the kitchen area a little more efficient. Next will be the issues with the windows and doors, then the sheet-rocking/taping and floating phase. Then will be the flooring issues, which you will need to pick a tile preference, as there are so many. The finishing up will be all of your texturing and painting, followed by installation of all new appliances, RE: New Toilet/sink/shower in batroom, new mini counter-top & sink, mini-fridge, mini-stove/range hood, ceiling fan/light fixtures, and I am thinking of a way to put a very small stackable washer/dryer. Drainage issues will be the final phase of job. As I like to pull long days, I would expect the job to take 7 to 10 days. If you choose me to do the job, I would like to take somew before/after pictures, and put them on my website, because I think it will be very impressive when it is all done. Thank you for your consideration. If you would like to call me, you can reach me at _ as I left my phone in Waco, and I have to have it shipped back to me this week. Thanks, and once again, sorry for the delay.

 
Last edited by a moderator:
OK, a Finance question.

I toured a house with this guy. He has his own agent, the works, I just went for a walk through to see what I thought. I liked it. Anyway, I just got this Email:

Code:
I believe as of Monday morning I will have an accepted offer on 4210 Hoagland.  The deal will be for 35k and must close by August 30th.  Otherwise I get stuck with a $100 per day penalty for not having it closed.  My current plan is that in 6 mos. I am going to refinance this property and I am curious as to what constitutes improvements in order to appraise at the highest value possible.  Paint, landscaping, going back to the hardwood flooring, having rental agreements?  What type of documentation would I need for these improvements as well?  What kind of costs will I be looking at for this refinance?
Little help over here?
 
OK, a Finance question.

I toured a house with this guy. He has his own agent, the works, I just went for a walk through to see what I thought. I liked it. Anyway, I just got this Email:

I believe as of Monday morning I will have an accepted offer on 4210 Hoagland. The deal will be for 35k and must close by August 30th. Otherwise I get stuck with a $100 per day penalty for not having it closed. My current plan is that in 6 mos. I am going to refinance this property and I am curious as to what constitutes improvements in order to appraise at the highest value possible. Paint, landscaping, going back to the hardwood flooring, having rental agreements? What type of documentation would I need for these improvements as well? What kind of costs will I be looking at for this refinance?Little help over here?
More of a proninja question, but I'd say:1. Receipts of all works put in on improvements shows validation of work done.

2. If you use "sweat equity", don't count on the appraiser taking that into account. If you are going to go that route, get an estimate to get the work done and THEN do it yourself - thus putting a value on getting that done. (For example - hardwood floors - if you get an estimate from someone and it is $10K and then you just do it - the appraiser should allocate $10K - even if you spend $3K on materials and do it yourself. You back-door the sweat equity value).

No, I don't do sweat equity, but that makes a TON of sense to me.

3. Get 3 estimates - use the HIGHEST for #2.

4. Anything is going to require comps. If you buy for $35K and fix it up, the best you can get is comp value - not more.

5. Seasoning - some lenders require it - and the more you have the more lenders you have that will listen. 6 months should be good for most anyone. Some get leery inside 90 days, and some don't care after one. All depends.

 
Last edited by a moderator:
OK, a Finance question.

I toured a house with this guy.  He has his own agent, the works, I just went for a walk through to see what I thought.  I liked it.  Anyway, I just got this Email:

I believe as of Monday morning I will have an accepted offer on 4210 Hoagland.  The deal will be for 35k and must close by August 30th.  Otherwise I get stuck with a $100 per day penalty for not having it closed.  My current plan is that in 6 mos. I am going to refinance this property and I am curious as to what constitutes improvements in order to appraise at the highest value possible.  Paint, landscaping, going back to the hardwood flooring, having rental agreements?  What type of documentation would I need for these improvements as well?  What kind of costs will I be looking at for this refinance?Little help over here?
More of a proninja question, but I'd say:1. Receipts of all works put in on improvements shows validation of work done.

2. If you use "sweat equity", don't count on the appraiser taking that into account. If you are going to go that route, get an estimate to get the work done and THEN do it yourself - thus putting a value on getting that done. (For example - hardwood floors - if you get an estimate from someone and it is $10K and then you just do it - the appraiser should allocate $10K - even if you spend $3K on materials and do it yourself. You back-door the sweat equity value).

No, I don't do sweat equity, but that makes a TON of sense to me.

3. Get 3 estimates - use the HIGHEST for #2.

4. Anything is going to require comps. If you buy for $35K and fix it up, the best you can get is comp value - not more.

5. Seasoning - some lenders require it - and the more you have the more lenders you have that will listen. 6 months should be good for most anyone. Some get leery inside 90 days, and some don't care after one. All depends.
I guess this is my fear. Buy the place for $35K, put a bunch of work into it expecting to hit a pay day, refinance, and it comes back at $40K, and you don't get back the investment.I have never bought a house, and banked on getting my money back by refinancing (TWO closing costs) to try and cash out.

 
OK, a Finance question.

I toured a house with this guy. He has his own agent, the works, I just went for a walk through to see what I thought. I liked it. Anyway, I just got this Email:

I believe as of Monday morning I will have an accepted offer on 4210 Hoagland. The deal will be for 35k and must close by August 30th. Otherwise I get stuck with a $100 per day penalty for not having it closed. My current plan is that in 6 mos. I am going to refinance this property and I am curious as to what constitutes improvements in order to appraise at the highest value possible. Paint, landscaping, going back to the hardwood flooring, having rental agreements? What type of documentation would I need for these improvements as well? What kind of costs will I be looking at for this refinance?Little help over here?
More of a proninja question, but I'd say:1. Receipts of all works put in on improvements shows validation of work done.

2. If you use "sweat equity", don't count on the appraiser taking that into account. If you are going to go that route, get an estimate to get the work done and THEN do it yourself - thus putting a value on getting that done. (For example - hardwood floors - if you get an estimate from someone and it is $10K and then you just do it - the appraiser should allocate $10K - even if you spend $3K on materials and do it yourself. You back-door the sweat equity value).

No, I don't do sweat equity, but that makes a TON of sense to me.

3. Get 3 estimates - use the HIGHEST for #2.

4. Anything is going to require comps. If you buy for $35K and fix it up, the best you can get is comp value - not more.

5. Seasoning - some lenders require it - and the more you have the more lenders you have that will listen. 6 months should be good for most anyone. Some get leery inside 90 days, and some don't care after one. All depends.
I guess this is my fear. Buy the place for $35K, put a bunch of work into it expecting to hit a pay day, refinance, and it comes back at $40K, and you don't get back the investment.I have never bought a house, and banked on getting my money back by refinancing (TWO closing costs) to try and cash out.
Talk to the bank about a construction loan. I know portfolio lenders that lend 80% of the ARV and release funds to purchase and rehab. At the end, you can roll it over to permanent financing. That way you don't have to sweat the 2nd closing and appraisal - you have an ARV appraisal now.
 
Thanks Mike on your reply about installing the drain, etc. Here's my current situation:

1. I have found a few Mexican crews who are willing to work on my place after hours which will be about 4 hours per day Mon - Sat and all day Sunday. They said they can get it done in 3 weeks, no worse than 4 weeks. Their labor cost is $3500 and they've got four guys waiting to start. I figured in about 4500 worth of material so the total for this part would be ~8k. (The concrete floor they will level but will get someone else to stain)

2. I already got two other Mexicans to redo my bathroom. Had to jack hammer the concrete since the existing pipes were on top of the concrete (concelled by wood which looked terrible) then reconfigured the pipes. Went with them to HD and got all the material (~400) including pipes, insulation, copper, baseshower, etc. Will be done by tomorrow. The whole bathroom and digging, etc cost me about $500. I can honestly say it would have taken me a lot longer doing this myself so it was worth it.

3. Another Mexican who works for elect construction company is will to do ALL electrical demo and upgrade for about 1k which to me sounds like a great deal. Alone all the parts costs will be ~500 so he is basically charging me 500 to do the labor.

Now, here's where it gets messy. #1 above they are waiting for me to get the bathroom and electical stuff upgraded before they start. I haven't paid them a cent or signed off but it's pretty much a done deal. The sticky part:

A previous GC who I haven't heard from in a few weeks (haven't mentioned this particular one before in the thread, not the same as the 11k quote GC) just called and sent me an e-mail wanting to do the whole thing for an INSANELY LOW amount. Honestly, if the stuff isn't stolen I don't know how he would make any money so if not stolen then is this a scam?

I would like your opinions on this before I contact him back. Obviously if he wants me to front him $$ then it could be a scam but if not, would I be crazy not to take up his offer?

Here's his e-mail:

After researching everything, I can do the job for $4800.00 This includes everything but the floor, and I have a very inexpensive concrete contractor that would like to set a time to come with me to see the floor. I am not sure if I told you, but my Grandmother had a stroke 18 days ago, so I was tied up dealing with that, and she passed away last week, so it has been a crazy couple of weeks, so sorry for the delay in getting back to you. All of your appliances will be brand new and warrantied, I don't like to use "reconditioned" or second hand things due to the future expense that they will run regarding repairs/replacement. The job will begin with a complete demo/popcorn scraping etc. Then repairing existing problems with walls and weater-sealing. Then I will go to the insulating phase, followed by wiring and plumbing issues. I have some plans on how to make the kitchen area a little more efficient. Next will be the issues with the windows and doors, then the sheet-rocking/taping and floating phase. Then will be the flooring issues, which you will need to pick a tile preference, as there are so many. The finishing up will be all of your texturing and painting, followed by installation of all new appliances, RE: New Toilet/sink/shower in batroom, new mini counter-top & sink, mini-fridge, mini-stove/range hood, ceiling fan/light fixtures, and I am thinking of a way to put a very small stackable washer/dryer. Drainage issues will be the final phase of job. As I like to pull long days, I would expect the job to take 7 to 10 days. If you choose me to do the job, I would like to take somew before/after pictures, and put them on my website, because I think it will be very impressive when it is all done. Thank you for your consideration. If you would like to call me, you can reach me at _ as I left my phone in Waco, and I have to have it shipped back to me this week. Thanks, and once again, sorry for the delay.
I shot the GC an e-mail wanting a breakdown and this was his reply:_, it is $4400.00, NOT $4800.00, the $4800.00 was with an additional stackable washer and dryer. I will give you an itemized break-down of everything tomorrow morning.

Interested in knowing your thoughts. This is pretty dirt cheap and unless he stole most of the materials, I am really curious to know how his bid can be so low.

 
OK, a Finance question.

I toured a house with this guy.  He has his own agent, the works, I just went for a walk through to see what I thought.  I liked it.  Anyway, I just got this Email:

I believe as of Monday morning I will have an accepted offer on 4210 Hoagland.  The deal will be for 35k and must close by August 30th.  Otherwise I get stuck with a $100 per day penalty for not having it closed.  My current plan is that in 6 mos. I am going to refinance this property and I am curious as to what constitutes improvements in order to appraise at the highest value possible.  Paint, landscaping, going back to the hardwood flooring, having rental agreements?  What type of documentation would I need for these improvements as well?  What kind of costs will I be looking at for this refinance?Little help over here?
More of a proninja question, but I'd say:1. Receipts of all works put in on improvements shows validation of work done.

2. If you use "sweat equity", don't count on the appraiser taking that into account. If you are going to go that route, get an estimate to get the work done and THEN do it yourself - thus putting a value on getting that done. (For example - hardwood floors - if you get an estimate from someone and it is $10K and then you just do it - the appraiser should allocate $10K - even if you spend $3K on materials and do it yourself. You back-door the sweat equity value).

No, I don't do sweat equity, but that makes a TON of sense to me.

3. Get 3 estimates - use the HIGHEST for #2.

4. Anything is going to require comps. If you buy for $35K and fix it up, the best you can get is comp value - not more.

5. Seasoning - some lenders require it - and the more you have the more lenders you have that will listen. 6 months should be good for most anyone. Some get leery inside 90 days, and some don't care after one. All depends.
I guess this is my fear. Buy the place for $35K, put a bunch of work into it expecting to hit a pay day, refinance, and it comes back at $40K, and you don't get back the investment.I have never bought a house, and banked on getting my money back by refinancing (TWO closing costs) to try and cash out.
Talk to the bank about a construction loan. I know portfolio lenders that lend 80% of the ARV and release funds to purchase and rehab. At the end, you can roll it over to permanent financing. That way you don't have to sweat the 2nd closing and appraisal - you have an ARV appraisal now.
I will pass that thought along.
 
Thanks Mike on your reply about installing the drain, etc. Here's my current situation:

1. I have found a few Mexican crews who are willing to work on my place after hours which will be about 4 hours per day Mon - Sat and all day Sunday. They said they can get it done in 3 weeks, no worse than 4 weeks. Their labor cost is $3500 and they've got four guys waiting to start. I figured in about 4500 worth of material so the total for this part would be ~8k. (The concrete floor they will level but will get someone else to stain)

2. I already got two other Mexicans to redo my bathroom. Had to jack hammer the concrete since the existing pipes were on top of the concrete (concelled by wood which looked terrible) then reconfigured the pipes. Went with them to HD and got all the material (~400) including pipes, insulation, copper, baseshower, etc. Will be done by tomorrow. The whole bathroom and digging, etc cost me about $500. I can honestly say it would have taken me a lot longer doing this myself so it was worth it.

3. Another Mexican who works for elect construction company is will to do ALL electrical demo and upgrade for about 1k which to me sounds like a great deal. Alone all the parts costs will be ~500 so he is basically charging me 500 to do the labor.

Now, here's where it gets messy. #1 above they are waiting for me to get the bathroom and electical stuff upgraded before they start. I haven't paid them a cent or signed off but it's pretty much a done deal. The sticky part:

A previous GC who I haven't heard from in a few weeks (haven't mentioned this particular one before in the thread, not the same as the 11k quote GC) just called and sent me an e-mail wanting to do the whole thing for an INSANELY LOW amount. Honestly, if the stuff isn't stolen I don't know how he would make any money so if not stolen then is this a scam?

I would like your opinions on this before I contact him back. Obviously if he wants me to front him $$ then it could be a scam but if not, would I be crazy not to take up his offer?

Here's his e-mail:

After researching everything, I can do the job for $4800.00  This includes everything but the floor, and I have a very inexpensive concrete contractor that would like to set a time to come with me to see the floor.  I am not sure if I told you, but my Grandmother had a stroke 18 days ago, so I was tied up dealing with that, and she passed away last week, so it has been a crazy couple of weeks, so sorry for the delay in getting back to you.  All of your appliances will be brand new and warrantied, I don't like to use "reconditioned" or second hand things due to the future expense that they will run regarding repairs/replacement.  The job will begin with a complete demo/popcorn scraping etc.  Then repairing existing problems with walls and weater-sealing.  Then I will go to the insulating phase, followed by wiring and plumbing issues.  I have some plans on how to make the kitchen area a little more efficient.  Next will be the issues with the windows and doors, then the sheet-rocking/taping and floating phase.  Then will be the flooring issues, which you will need to pick a tile preference, as there are so many. The finishing up will be all of your texturing and painting, followed by installation of all new appliances, RE:  New Toilet/sink/shower in batroom, new mini counter-top & sink, mini-fridge, mini-stove/range hood, ceiling fan/light fixtures, and I am thinking of a way to put a very small stackable washer/dryer.  Drainage issues will be the final phase of job.  As I like to pull long days, I would expect the job to take 7 to 10 days.  If you choose me to do the job, I would like to take somew before/after pictures, and put them on my website, because I think it will be very impressive when it is all done.  Thank you for your consideration.  If you would like to call me, you can reach me at _ as I left my phone in Waco, and I have to have it shipped back to me this week.  Thanks, and once again, sorry for the delay.
I shot the GC an e-mail wanting a breakdown and this was his reply:_, it is $4400.00, NOT $4800.00, the $4800.00 was with an additional stackable washer and dryer. I will give you an itemized break-down of everything tomorrow morning.

Interested in knowing your thoughts. This is pretty dirt cheap and unless he stole most of the materials, I am really curious to know how his bid can be so low.
The work and materials aren't that expensive, even if you do it right. The cost is in the labor. I'll be shocked if it is completed quickly.Not saying this is a scam, and the fact that he uses Email makes me feel better, but the way this type of scam works is they WAY under bid so you jump at it, they do a little easy work, make a big show, so expect that if it is a scam, they start on something that is extremely visible. Then the guy pulls as much money out of you as possible, and you never see him again. Don't pay in cash, do something you can stop if you act quickly.

Once again, not saying it is a scam. I could do your scope of work for that, but it would be the HUGE FBG discount. If he uses cheap enough labor like I would try and do, it's possible.

Please watch your wallet.

 
RK,

Send the guy an Email and ask if he is going to pull permits. His response could be very telling here. Let us know what he responds with.

 
Getting rid of the Flashlight stand is a HUGE plus.

Was there anyway to put a base cabinet under it and use it, or did it kill the room?
It was a 1 foot countertop attached to the wall with an L brace. The delemma with keeping the existing cabinets and adding stuff to the wall with the flashlight countertop was that the cabinets wouldn't match. That and the doors on the original cabinets had some funky measurements so we couldn't replace the doors either.The kitchen will be a huge draw to the house when finished, instead of being a detraction.

Also, we found our first "problem" this morning. We had a pretty nasty storm blow through last night (probably the same one you had) and we had some water in the basement. Appears to have come up through a floor drain. Not sure what caused it to do this or what to do about it.
What you do is hire a Sewer guy to come out and just take care of it. I personally own a Big Sewer snake, and MORE than half the time I hire the guy to come out. For your first time dealing with it, Please don't go and rent one, but if you do, you need the monster that stands some 3 feet high with the foot peddle. This will be FAR more trouble than it is worth.

Shop around, the pricing is very different in my area. "Roto Router" is INSANE on the cost. Find a guy that just does Sewers in the phone book, and get your best price. Shop this service, it can be the difference of $100.00 or more between them.

Ideally, you will pay right around $100.00 out the door, maybe a little more, and say $5.00 extra when he breaks your cap inside the house and bills you. Little stuff. If there is EVER a guy to build a relationship with as a LL, it is the sewer guy. :thumbup:

Ideally you have a Clean out in the yard, as that will save you some money if he doesn't have to go to the basement. However it works, he could very likely come out, run the snake for under 10 minutes, bill you a C-note, and be on his way.

DEMAND a Warranty on his work. Anyone respectable will give you one, and it's about 45-90 days around here. Even if the Sewer is clogged with tree roots, you can beat them into 30 days. Don't back down on this point.

At most, the guy works an hour, Cusses like a Sailor yelling all over the area as kids run around, and bills you a C-Note.

Watch him, and if you want to in the future, do it yourself, it's not rocket science in the slightest. I did it myself for years, but it's a hassle, I just pay a guy now.

Step #2 is to install a "back-flow valve" on that floor drain, and it will never back up again EVER. I have never understood why everyone doesn't do this. We have houses in my town that have the Sewer, and I mean SEWER back up into their homes multiple times a year. Never understood this. In an emergency, if you have no valve in the sewer line, or if the valve fails, you can use a plastic bag filled with rags to stop back-flow through the sewer.

If you are squeamish or prissy, doing this project on the sewer might be too disgusting for you, it's not hard, but dirty, and you know that line carries toilet waste. A Floor drain will be clean, just more Floor to break out. Do rent the Jack Hammer. Take a look at the process:

Install Sewer Back Flow Valve

With a good clean out from the sewer guy, I wouldn't begin to worry about the valve on a Flip, no way, it's just the right thing to do in YOUR home or Rental.
Do you still have standing water in the Basement???
As of Sunday AM, it was still wet, jwouldn't say it had standing water. We have the carpet out, was planning on keeping the pad so we left it in.
 
RK,

Send the guy an Email and ask if he is going to pull permits. His response could be very telling here. Let us know what he responds with.
Thanks, will do. Also, his license # is on his card if that means anything. LC#7854I'll report any feedback.

 
RK,

Send the guy an Email and ask if he is going to pull permits. His response could be very telling here. Let us know what he responds with.
His replyI havent had to pull a permit yet, it hasnt been a large enough scale to require one yet.

Stay with Mexican workers or at least see what his breakdown will be on his bid?

 
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