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PBS Frontline : The Retirement Gamble, sorta Must See (2 Viewers)

It's pretty simple...

1. Contribute to the max to get employer match in 401k

2. Sock away 4-6 months expenses as an emergency fund

3. Eliminate debt > 4% interest

4. If you think your taxes will be higher in retirement, contribute to Roth IRA to the max. If income too high, do a back-door Roth (google as needed)

5. If you think your taxes will be lower in retirement, contribute to the 401K to the max.

And if you just aren't sure where your tax rate will end up, best of both worlds is to max Roth IRA and contribute to 401K, which will give you options upon retirement.

 
And if you just aren't sure where your tax rate will end up, best of both worlds is to max Roth IRA and contribute to 401K, which will give you options upon retirement.
I'm a big fan of splitting between Roth and tax deferred if possible. The tax code contains so many items based on AGI that being able to control the amount of retirement income included in AGI allows for great planning opportunities.

 
And if you just aren't sure where your tax rate will end up, best of both worlds is to max Roth IRA and contribute to 401K, which will give you options upon retirement.
I'm a big fan of splitting between Roth and tax deferred if possible. The tax code contains so many items based on AGI that being able to control the amount of retirement income included in AGI allows for great planning opportunities.
This. As employer matches by law are pre-tax (go to Traditional 401K) I finally switched my contributions so that they are going into the ROTH 401K. A little tax diversification never hurt.

 
It's pretty simple...

1. Contribute to the max to get employer match in 401k

2. Sock away 4-6 months expenses as an emergency fund

3. Eliminate debt > 4% interest

4. If you think your taxes will be higher in retirement, contribute to Roth IRA to the max. If income too high, do a back-door Roth (google as needed)

5. If you think your taxes will be lower in retirement, contribute to the 401K to the max.

And if you just aren't sure where your tax rate will end up, best of both worlds is to max Roth IRA and contribute to 401K, which will give you options upon retirement.
I know these rules and I have 1-3 checked off no problem. My issue is I'm 34 and have no idea what the heck taxes will be in my retirement. I also like the tax benefits now of having the money dump into other areas of interest (additional rental properties, additional savings to start or buy into a company, etc.).

 
It's pretty simple...

1. Contribute to the max to get employer match in 401k

2. Sock away 4-6 months expenses as an emergency fund

3. Eliminate debt > 4% interest

4. If you think your taxes will be higher in retirement, contribute to Roth IRA to the max. If income too high, do a back-door Roth (google as needed)

5. If you think your taxes will be lower in retirement, contribute to the 401K to the max.

And if you just aren't sure where your tax rate will end up, best of both worlds is to max Roth IRA and contribute to 401K, which will give you options upon retirement.
I know these rules and I have 1-3 checked off no problem. My issue is I'm 34 and have no idea what the heck taxes will be in my retirement. I also like the tax benefits now of having the money dump into other areas of interest (additional rental properties, additional savings to start or buy into a company, etc.).
If you don't know go ahead and diversify. There was lots of talk on Bogleheads about Roth 401k programs and how they are not slam dunk great investment vehicles recently. Is personally opt for the Roth IRA, but having pits of taxable, tax free, and tax deferred will work out fine.

 
It's pretty simple...

1. Contribute to the max to get employer match in 401k

2. Sock away 4-6 months expenses as an emergency fund

3. Eliminate debt > 4% interest

4. If you think your taxes will be higher in retirement, contribute to Roth IRA to the max. If income too high, do a back-door Roth (google as needed)

5. If you think your taxes will be lower in retirement, contribute to the 401K to the max.

And if you just aren't sure where your tax rate will end up, best of both worlds is to max Roth IRA and contribute to 401K, which will give you options upon retirement.
I know these rules and I have 1-3 checked off no problem. My issue is I'm 34 and have no idea what the heck taxes will be in my retirement. I also like the tax benefits now of having the money dump into other areas of interest (additional rental properties, additional savings to start or buy into a company, etc.).
Married? Any plans to be soon? Kids? Plans?

 
It's pretty simple...

1. Contribute to the max to get employer match in 401k

2. Sock away 4-6 months expenses as an emergency fund

3. Eliminate debt > 4% interest

4. If you think your taxes will be higher in retirement, contribute to Roth IRA to the max. If income too high, do a back-door Roth (google as needed)

5. If you think your taxes will be lower in retirement, contribute to the 401K to the max.

And if you just aren't sure where your tax rate will end up, best of both worlds is to max Roth IRA and contribute to 401K, which will give you options upon retirement.
I know these rules and I have 1-3 checked off no problem. My issue is I'm 34 and have no idea what the heck taxes will be in my retirement. I also like the tax benefits now of having the money dump into other areas of interest (additional rental properties, additional savings to start or buy into a company, etc.).
Married? Any plans to be soon? Kids? Plans?
Married with two girls (3 and 18 months). Wife will likely max out her plan once she's graduated and employed.

 
It's pretty simple...

1. Contribute to the max to get employer match in 401k

2. Sock away 4-6 months expenses as an emergency fund

3. Eliminate debt > 4% interest

4. If you think your taxes will be higher in retirement, contribute to Roth IRA to the max. If income too high, do a back-door Roth (google as needed)

5. If you think your taxes will be lower in retirement, contribute to the 401K to the max.

And if you just aren't sure where your tax rate will end up, best of both worlds is to max Roth IRA and contribute to 401K, which will give you options upon retirement.
I know these rules and I have 1-3 checked off no problem. My issue is I'm 34 and have no idea what the heck taxes will be in my retirement. I also like the tax benefits now of having the money dump into other areas of interest (additional rental properties, additional savings to start or buy into a company, etc.).
Married? Any plans to be soon? Kids? Plans?
Married with two girls (3 and 18 months). Wife will likely max out her plan once she's graduated and employed.
nice, so you're already living off of one income....looks like you're in a pretty good situation. Without any additional details of your situation (salary, debt, etc), I'd think about maxing Roth for now and if anything is left over take a look at your states 529 plan to see what they march.

I posted a while back that my financial planner said I could buy a property near my kids college under some LLC and pay the rent to it out of the 529. Haven't vetted it with an accountant, but have spoken to some friends who have heard similar.

 
It's pretty simple...

1. Contribute to the max to get employer match in 401k

2. Sock away 4-6 months expenses as an emergency fund

3. Eliminate debt > 4% interest

4. If you think your taxes will be higher in retirement, contribute to Roth IRA to the max. If income too high, do a back-door Roth (google as needed)

5. If you think your taxes will be lower in retirement, contribute to the 401K to the max.

And if you just aren't sure where your tax rate will end up, best of both worlds is to max Roth IRA and contribute to 401K, which will give you options upon retirement.
I know these rules and I have 1-3 checked off no problem. My issue is I'm 34 and have no idea what the heck taxes will be in my retirement. I also like the tax benefits now of having the money dump into other areas of interest (additional rental properties, additional savings to start or buy into a company, etc.).
Married? Any plans to be soon? Kids? Plans?
Married with two girls (3 and 18 months). Wife will likely max out her plan once she's graduated and employed.
nice, so you're already living off of one income....looks like you're in a pretty good situation. Without any additional details of your situation (salary, debt, etc), I'd think about maxing Roth for now and if anything is left over take a look at your states 529 plan to see what they march. I posted a while back that my financial planner said I could buy a property near my kids college under some LLC and pay the rent to it out of the 529. Haven't vetted it with an accountant, but have spoken to some friends who have heard similar.
My only debt is a mortgage at 3.5% (primary home), mortgage at 3.625% (rental property), and a car loan at 0%. I finished my grad school in March with no loans and my wife will finish hers next May with no loans.We have a 529 setup for both kids and my wife (max out for what our state will reduce). I know we are doing better than 95% of the world, but trying to decide on tax now vs tax deferred sucks. If you don't go with a decent percent, you only end up with like a year or three of beneficial pulls in retirement.

I can't figure out if making additional investments with the tax savings is better than putting it in the Roth. Also , add in, I hope to never touch our retirement b/c both my parents and the in-laws will likely leave decent inheritance (hopefully waaaaaaaaaaaaaaay down the road). I also plan to fund any school my kids get into (mucho money) and their weddings.

I do like the LLC angle you mentioned. Will want to do that if I can.

 
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It's pretty simple...

1. Contribute to the max to get employer match in 401k

2. Sock away 4-6 months expenses as an emergency fund

3. Eliminate debt > 4% interest

4. If you think your taxes will be higher in retirement, contribute to Roth IRA to the max. If income too high, do a back-door Roth (google as needed)

5. If you think your taxes will be lower in retirement, contribute to the 401K to the max.

And if you just aren't sure where your tax rate will end up, best of both worlds is to max Roth IRA and contribute to 401K, which will give you options upon retirement.
I know these rules and I have 1-3 checked off no problem. My issue is I'm 34 and have no idea what the heck taxes will be in my retirement. I also like the tax benefits now of having the money dump into other areas of interest (additional rental properties, additional savings to start or buy into a company, etc.).
If you don't know go ahead and diversify. There was lots of talk on Bogleheads about Roth 401k programs and how they are not slam dunk great investment vehicles recently. Is personally opt for the Roth IRA, but having pits of taxable, tax free, and tax deferred will work out fine.
Diversification is great...but I feel like you really have to commit. Retiring with $50k in the Roth doesn't do a whole lot. I feel like you need at least a third in there for it to really help.

 
I posted a while back that my financial planner said I could buy a property near my kids college under some LLC and pay the rent to it out of the 529. Haven't vetted it with an accountant, but have spoken to some friends who have heard similar.
Can you explain this one a little more. I am confused on the wording. If the intention is to buy the property, why would you be paying rent?

 
I posted a while back that my financial planner said I could buy a property near my kids college under some LLC and pay the rent to it out of the 529. Haven't vetted it with an accountant, but have spoken to some friends who have heard similar.
Can you explain this one a little more. I am confused on the wording. If the intention is to buy the property, why would you be paying rent?
The theory is that you would pay rent to yourself using the kids 529.

 
I posted a while back that my financial planner said I could buy a property near my kids college under some LLC and pay the rent to it out of the 529. Haven't vetted it with an accountant, but have spoken to some friends who have heard similar.
Can you explain this one a little more. I am confused on the wording. If the intention is to buy the property, why would you be paying rent?
The theory is that you would pay rent to yourself using the kids 529.
I still don't get it. Isn't that just moving money from one pocket to the other?

 
I posted a while back that my financial planner said I could buy a property near my kids college under some LLC and pay the rent to it out of the 529. Haven't vetted it with an accountant, but have spoken to some friends who have heard similar.
Can you explain this one a little more. I am confused on the wording. If the intention is to buy the property, why would you be paying rent?
The theory is that you would pay rent to yourself using the kids 529.
I still don't get it. Isn't that just moving money from one pocket to the other?
Yes, with a state tax savings, inflated rent ("theoretically"), and friends of your child paying half+ of it...all while having an asset paid off. Its like owning a rental on steroids.

 
I posted a while back that my financial planner said I could buy a property near my kids college under some LLC and pay the rent to it out of the 529. Haven't vetted it with an accountant, but have spoken to some friends who have heard similar.
Can you explain this one a little more. I am confused on the wording. If the intention is to buy the property, why would you be paying rent?
The theory is that you would pay rent to yourself using the kids 529.
I still don't get it. Isn't that just moving money from one pocket to the other?
Yes, with a state tax savings, inflated rent ("theoretically"), and friends of your child paying half+ of it...all while having an asset paid off. Its like owning a rental on steroids.
Good stuff thanks! I never knew about this.

For those looking for more details and gotchas, this link has a great write up on this.

http://finance.zacks.com/can-pay-mortgage-529-plan-1248.html

 
I posted a while back that my financial planner said I could buy a property near my kids college under some LLC and pay the rent to it out of the 529. Haven't vetted it with an accountant, but have spoken to some friends who have heard similar.
Can you explain this one a little more. I am confused on the wording. If the intention is to buy the property, why would you be paying rent?
The theory is that you would pay rent to yourself using the kids 529.
I still don't get it. Isn't that just moving money from one pocket to the other?
Let's say I buy a two BR apt near the college under Tiger Fan LLC out of my own money. My kids have to live somewhere for college, which will be paid out of my 529. Why not have it pay Tiger Fan LLC rather than Some Orher guy LLC.

 
http://www.etf.com/sections/features-and-news/3-retirement-loopholes-seem-likely-close?nopaging=1

LOS ANGELES (Reuters) – There are plenty of tips and tricks to maximizing your retirement benefits, and more than a few are considered "loopholes" that taxpayers have been able to use to circumvent the letter of the law in order to pay less to the government.

But as often happens when too many people make use of such shortcuts, the government may move to close three retirement loopholes that have become increasingly popular as financial advisers have learned how to exploit kinks in the law.

Backdoor Roth IRA Conversions

The U.S. Congress created this particular loophole by lifting income restrictions from conversions from a traditional Individual Retirement Account to a Roth IRA, but not listing these restrictions from the contributions to the accounts.

People whose incomes are too high to put after-tax money directly into a Roth, where the growth is tax-free, can instead fund a traditional IRA with a nondeductible contribution and shortly thereafter convert the IRA to a Roth. Taxes are typically due in a Roth conversion, but this technique will not trigger much, if any, tax bill if the contributor does not have other money in an IRA.

President Obama's 2016 budget proposal suggests that future Roth conversions be limited to pre-tax money only, effectively killing most backdoor Roths.

Congressional gridlock, though, means action is not likely until the next administration takes over, said financial planner and enrolled agent Francis St. Onge with Total Financial Planning in Brighton, Michigan. He doubts any tax change would be retroactive, which means the window for doing backdoor Roths is likely to remain open for awhile.

"It would create too much turmoil if they forced people to undo them," says St. Onge.

The Stretch IRA

People who inherit an IRA have the option of taking distributions over their lifetimes. Wealthy families that convert IRAs to Roths can potentially provide tax-free income to their heirs for decades, since Roth withdrawals are typically not taxed.

That bothers lawmakers across the political spectrum who think retirement funds should be for retirement—not a bonanza for inheritors.

"Congress never imagined the IRA to be an estate-planning vehicle," said Ed Slott, a certified public accountant and author of "Ed Slott's 2015 Retirement Decisions Guide."

Most recent tax-related bills have included a provision to kill the stretch IRA and replace it with a law requiring beneficiaries other than spouses to withdraw the money within five years. Anyone contemplating a Roth conversion for the benefit of heirs should evaluate whether the strategy makes sense if those heirs have to withdraw the money within five years, Slott said.

‘Aggressive’ Strategies For Social Security

Obama's budget also proposed to eliminate "aggressive" Social Security claiming strategies, which it said allow upper-income beneficiaries to manipulate the timing of collection of Social Security benefits in order to maximize delayed retirement credits.

Obama did not specify which strategies, but retirement experts said he is likely referring to the "file and suspend" and "claim now, claim more later" techniques.

Married people can claim a benefit based on their own work record or a spousal benefit of up to half their partner's benefit. Dual-earner couples may profit by doing both. People who choose a spousal benefit at full retirement age (currently 66) can later switch to their own benefit when it maxes out at age 70—known as the "claim now, claim more later" approach that can boost a couple's lifetime Social Security payout by tens of thousands of dollars.

The "file and suspend" technique can be used in conjunction with this strategy or on its own. Typically one member of a couple has to file for retirement benefits for the other partner to get a spousal benefit.

Someone who reaches full retirement age also has the option of applying for Social Security and then immediately suspending the application so that the benefit continues to grow, while allowing a spouse to claim a spousal benefit.

People close to retirement need not worry, said Boston University economist Laurence Kotlikoff, who wrote the bestseller "Get What's Yours: The Secrets to Maxing Out Social Security."

"I don't see them ever taking anything away that they've already given," Kotlikoff said. "If they do something, they'll have to phase it in."
 
Thing is, if you're above the income limit for a Roth, you're better off with a traditional IRA anyways. If you're in the 35% tax bracket right now, you're probably not when you retire. I'm not sure why most people in that situation would want to convert to Roth.

 
Maybe a dumb question, but are there really a lot of people who's retirement income will be greater than their working income? I keep reading that's a big reason you'd go Roth instead of traditional. I'm anticipating that my retirement income will be half. I know there are other benefits to have money in a Roth.

 
Thing is, if you're above the income limit for a Roth, you're better off with a traditional IRA anyways. If you're in the 35% tax bracket right now, you're probably not when you retire. I'm not sure why most people in that situation would want to convert to Roth.
I like the diversification of the Roth IRA for tax purposes. My portfolio will end up being like 80% 401k and 20% Roth simply because of the contribution limits 17.5k (plus a match) vs. 5.5k Roth

Actually it might be more extreme than that... I think currently it's about 90/10.

But now a days I'm just doing Roth IRA backdoor conversions as long as they allow that.

 
Are you guys talking about a non deductible IRA? It might be obvious, but a Roth is always superior to a nondeductible IRA

 
Are you guys talking about a non deductible IRA? It might be obvious, but a Roth is always superior to a nondeductible IRA
I'm talking about Roth vs deductible. Yeah, there's no comparison between Roth and nondeductible which is why the conversion is no brainer.

 
Maybe a dumb question, but are there really a lot of people who's retirement income will be greater than their working income? I keep reading that's a big reason you'd go Roth instead of traditional. I'm anticipating that my retirement income will be half. I know there are other benefits to have money in a Roth.
Probably the biggest reason for a Roth is the potential for your Roth balance to grow over the years to several times the amount contributed. All those earnings are tax free.

 
Maybe a dumb question, but are there really a lot of people who's retirement income will be greater than their working income? I keep reading that's a big reason you'd go Roth instead of traditional. I'm anticipating that my retirement income will be half. I know there are other benefits to have money in a Roth.
This is no where near my area of expertise but from everything I have seen the expectation is not so much about having more income to be taxed (though possible) and thus at a higher level than current income but rather overall just having more taxation in the future. Since the ROTH is investing after tax dollars, the idea is that tax rates are seen as being lower than they likely will be in the future, and thus there is more bang for your buck in paying Uncle Sam now rather than later.

 
Maybe a dumb question, but are there really a lot of people who's retirement income will be greater than their working income?
This is odd. I would not think this is too common.
Only way for most people off of the top of my head would be saving within a 401k with a match, on top of a defined benefit pension. And, as chance would have it, this would not apply to most people because pensions are the way of the dinosaurs.

 
Maybe a dumb question, but are there really a lot of people who's retirement income will be greater than their working income? I keep reading that's a big reason you'd go Roth instead of traditional. I'm anticipating that my retirement income will be half. I know there are other benefits to have money in a Roth.
Probably fewer than some think and frankly it's probably oversold, but for those of us who will probably get two pensions and have a decent amount invested it's an easy choice.

 
Maybe a dumb question, but are there really a lot of people who's retirement income will be greater than their working income? I keep reading that's a big reason you'd go Roth instead of traditional. I'm anticipating that my retirement income will be half. I know there are other benefits to have money in a Roth.
Probably the biggest reason for a Roth is the potential for your Roth balance to grow over the years to several times the amount contributed. All those earnings are tax free.
Tax rates are pretty low at the moment as well.

Would it surprise anyone if a household 150K (inflation adjusted) was more than 25% in thirty years?

There are an awful lot of people who think 150K is rich.

 
Maybe a dumb question, but are there really a lot of people who's retirement income will be greater than their working income? I keep reading that's a big reason you'd go Roth instead of traditional. I'm anticipating that my retirement income will be half. I know there are other benefits to have money in a Roth.
This is no where near my area of expertise but from everything I have seen the expectation is not so much about having more income to be taxed (though possible) and thus at a higher level than current income but rather overall just having more taxation in the future. Since the ROTH is investing after tax dollars, the idea is that tax rates are seen as being lower than they likely will be in the future, and thus there is more bang for your buck in paying Uncle Sam now rather than later.
I'd think that if any rates were to go up, it would be at the higher brackets, not at the lower one's where most if not all of your taxable retirement income will fall. Even if they were to go up a little, I'd think you'd be way better off with the traditional/401k than a Roth.

 
Quick question, a few years away (but plan now)

Is it better to use your Roth Ira for a down payment on a house, to put less than 20% down on a traditional mortgage, or use the VA loan? VA loan would seem the easy choice but the rate has generally been higher than traditional. Assume we'll be looking at a $500k house in 4-7 years.

 
Then again, I guess it comes back to how much income you plan on having during retirement. With no mortgage, 80k in today's dollars would be more than enough for me, but some of you may be planning for a lot more.

 
Quick question, a few years away (but plan now)

Is it better to use your Roth Ira for a down payment on a house, to put less than 20% down on a traditional mortgage, or use the VA loan? VA loan would seem the easy choice but the rate has generally been higher than traditional. Assume we'll be looking at a $500k house in 4-7 years.
This is one where general answers won't apply. Need specifics, including rates

 
wilked said:
FUBAR said:
Quick question, a few years away (but plan now)

Is it better to use your Roth Ira for a down payment on a house, to put less than 20% down on a traditional mortgage, or use the VA loan? VA loan would seem the easy choice but the rate has generally been higher than traditional. Assume we'll be looking at a $500k house in 4-7 years.
This is one where general answers won't apply. Need specifics, including rates
My bank is advertising30-Year Fixed Rate 4.000% 4.182%

30-Year Fixed Rate VA 3.750% 3.991%

15-Year Fixed Rate 3.000% 3.351%

15-Year Fixed Rate VA 3.250% 3.676%

I assumed we'd do the 15 year, but maybe not, considering these rates.

 
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VA Loan all day, every day.
It would be easier to not have to put 100k down or pay pmi. Somehow I thought the rates were worse than this.
No reason to put $100k down IMO. Use that money for home improvements or to increase the value of the property. I'm of the Ric Edelman school of thought on mortgages though, I believe in the longest term and in not making extra payments and the like. Especially with these rates.

 
I just noticed you said you will be buying this home in 4-7 years. No point in talking rates if you are that far away from buying.

If you instead mean you are looking to buy a home, then sell it in 4-7 years...my advice is to rent.

 
I just noticed you said you will be buying this home in 4-7 years. No point in talking rates if you are that far away from buying.

If you instead mean you are looking to buy a home, then sell it in 4-7 years...my advice is to rent.
Looking ahead. I'll probably retire from the army in 4 years, maybe a little longer depending on assignments and promotions.

If the best plan is likely to be the VA loan, there's not much need to put money away in an account I can easily access and can keep putting most of my retirement investments in the TSP. Otoh, if the better plan is to pull money from my Roth or put money into a non tax benefited account (I don't think that would be the case but maybe I'm missing something) I need to start looking that way.

I have enough for a new car in a non tax benefited account, sort of debating whether to put more into my kids' educational Ira and max the TSP even if that means pulling money out of the other account.

I think my plan is to do just that, but maybe keep 10-15k in that account for emergencies beyond my checking account.

I've called the local ELP (Ramsey's guys) but haven't met with him yet as we just moved.

 
VA Loans are usually the way to go.

Although, it isn't often mention, instead of PMI they have a funding fee. Typically it is 1% the cost of the home, and it can be rolled into the loan.

 
So Capitalone360 is offering a pretty killer promotion where you can earn about 4.4% (can deposit up to $50,000) for the first 105 days by opening up a 360 savings account. Not too shabby if you have extra cash around. FWIW, I’m a current Capital One customer and still eligible. I called to verify, and they said “CapitalOne360” is the old ING, so as long as you didn’t have a legacy account with ING; you should be eligible. But you can call just to verify if you’re worried.

Anyway, here's a the link (disclosure, if you use my link I get a $25 referral :banned: ) - https://r.capitalone360.com/DoHEXGeF6u

 
So Capitalone360 is offering a pretty killer promotion where you can earn about 4.4% (can deposit up to $50,000) for the first 105 days by opening up a 360 savings account. Not too shabby if you have extra cash around. FWIW, I’m a current Capital One customer and still eligible. I called to verify, and they said “CapitalOne360” is the old ING, so as long as you didn’t have a legacy account with ING; you should be eligible. But you can call just to verify if you’re worried.

Anyway, here's a the link (disclosure, if you use my link I get a $25 referral :banned: ) - https://r.capitalone360.com/DoHEXGeF6u
Hmmm, I am intrigued. I keep my emergency fund with American Express savings, about 25k in there which covers my 6 month rolling average expenses and then a few K in excess. Amex Savings is at 0.8% APY, and Capital One is at 0.75%, so that's ~$12 of downside to switch. With the $200 + $25 bonus, coupled with the fact that since it's an emergency account it's never touched, I'd easily cover the 90 day requirements to get the bonus.

Does switching savings accounts constitute a hard pull on credit/any downside for switching banks? If not, and you keep your emergency cash in online savings, this is kind of a no-brainer.

:hifive: TF

 
Registering my 12yo son for junior high (just moved to Madison, AL), one elective offered is a personal finance course.

Really glad to see the class offered, though I'll be helping him closely.

 
So Capitalone360 is offering a pretty killer promotion where you can earn about 4.4% (can deposit up to $50,000) for the first 105 days by opening up a 360 savings account. Not too shabby if you have extra cash around. FWIW, I’m a current Capital One customer and still eligible. I called to verify, and they said “CapitalOne360” is the old ING, so as long as you didn’t have a legacy account with ING; you should be eligible. But you can call just to verify if you’re worried.

Anyway, here's a the link (disclosure, if you use my link I get a $25 referral :banned: ) - https://r.capitalone360.com/DoHEXGeF6u
Hmmm, I am intrigued. I keep my emergency fund with American Express savings, about 25k in there which covers my 6 month rolling average expenses and then a few K in excess. Amex Savings is at 0.8% APY, and Capital One is at 0.75%, so that's ~$12 of downside to switch. With the $200 + $25 bonus, coupled with the fact that since it's an emergency account it's never touched, I'd easily cover the 90 day requirements to get the bonus.

Does switching savings accounts constitute a hard pull on credit/any downside for switching banks? If not, and you keep your emergency cash in online savings, this is kind of a no-brainer.

:hifive: TF
I would imagine there's a pull on credit (I had to put my SSN in), but I didn't mind b/c the .75% is better than what i'm currently getting

 

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