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PBS Frontline : The Retirement Gamble, sorta Must See (2 Viewers)

So with the debate of payoff mortgage vs invest left as a different topic as it is more than just math.  The psychological factor is different for everybody.

What types of investments are there for when you have maxed out your IRA and 401K?  How do I know if I am eligible for a HSA?  I don't lean towards being a landlord however the right silent investor opportunity would not be bad.  Our IRA is just basic Vanguard funds currently.
1.  Regular taxable investments.  Not a horrible thing - a mix of taxable, tax free, and tax deferred makes you future tax change neutral (or at least flexible).

2.  If your employer offers a high deductible insurance plan it typically allows for you to contribute to an HSA.  If you leave that plan/employer you can typically take the HSA with you but can't add to it.

 
So with the debate of payoff mortgage vs invest left as a different topic as it is more than just math.  The psychological factor is different for everybody.

What types of investments are there for when you have maxed out your IRA and 401K?  How do I know if I am eligible for a HSA?  I don't lean towards being a landlord however the right silent investor opportunity would not be bad.  Our IRA is just basic Vanguard funds currently.
Right.  On her side is psychological, mine has math/logic.  Which sums up our personalities well.

Our investment breakdown goes something like 1. Max the TSP ($18k), 2. Max her Roth ($5.5k), 3. Kids college accounts ($2k each = $8k), 4. Non tax preferred account (whatever is left).  We've made it to #4 most years but this year we're adopting from China which costs around $40k - $20k for services and another $20k for travel funds.  (Travel might be less but that's what their forecast).  

HSA can be great if you're eligible and we could put more in college accounts if we hadn't selected the Coverdell. 

 
The other side with the 'paying down mortgage' argument. If you are near the end of your payoff, you might lean toward paying off. Your tax savings declines as the interest payments decline 

 
We have a fixed rate at 2.875 for 11 more years (15 yr).  I lean toward paying it down when all tax advantaged investment options are maxed.  I think there's even a math angle that makes sense for those that want to retire early.

Payment is 1266/mo.  For my investment portfolio to make 1266/mo I need an additional 300K @ 5%.  More than double my mort payoff.

 
I love these 'how to pay less in taxes on your SS.' articles. This new one is a gem. Give away up to $100,000. :lmao:   How's about I keep that cash and pay some taxes. The other option is standard in these stupid articles. It always says that you need to earn less that 32k or so. So go live in poverty and you will not pay taxes on :thumbup: your SS.  

 
I love these 'how to pay less in taxes on your SS.' articles. This new one is a gem. Give away up to $100,000. :lmao:   How's about I keep that cash and pay some taxes. The other option is standard in these stupid articles. It always says that you need to earn less that 32k or so. So go live in poverty and you will not pay taxes on :thumbup: your SS.  
I think the idea is to supplement that 32k with post tax investment sources like a roth.   

 
I think the idea is to supplement that 32k with post tax investment sources like a roth.   
Yeah, the 5% of the population that can actually do that. Most people will be working thru retirement and paying taxes on their income and SS. I know over 90% won't be giving any $ away...cause they won't have any to give away.

 
The other side with the 'paying down mortgage' argument. If you are near the end of your payoff, you might lean toward paying off. Your tax savings declines as the interest payments decline 
If you cross the standard deduction threshold the interest deduction doesn't save you anything.  You need to itemize to take advantage.  

Yeah, the 5% of the population that can actually do that. Most people will be working thru retirement and paying taxes on their income and SS. I know over 90% won't be giving any $ away...cause they won't have any to give away.
The key there is that the SSA bumps payments 8% a year for every year you defer.  If you incur taxes on top of that with your SS payouts the payoff gets way over 10% guaranteed return to put off starting SS.  Unless absolutely necessary it is incredibly foolhardy to start SS when you're still pulling in a decent salary.

 
lod001 said:
Yeah, the 5% of the population that can actually do that. Most people will be working thru retirement and paying taxes on their income and SS. I know over 90% won't be giving any $ away...cause they won't have any to give away.
That's a pretty good readership

 
Haven't read the whole thread (or very much of it) but a couple of points I pulled out of one of the links you guys posted to consider:

  • Fidelity Investments found in its most recent Retiree Health Care Costs Estimate study that a 65-year-old couple retiring this year with Medicare coverage will need about $245,000 to pay for medical expenses throughout retirement, excluding nursing-home care.
  • In today’s environment, taking on a modest mortgage and paying it off before retirement is the goal. At that time, and based on individual situations, you may have the option to downsize your residence or use the equity to help fund your retirement income via a reverse mortgage. You can also stay in your home until you pass away and let its equity serve as an inheritance for your heirs.
Social Security:

  • If you wait until full retirement age, you’ll be eligible for the maximum amount of payout available based on your lifelong earnings. Delaying benefits as long as you can will increase the amount you are eligible to receive.
  • For a spouse to collect 50% of your benefit you need to have been married for at least one year. (not applicable to most, but, I fit in this category)
  • Even the Social Security Administration admits that by 2040, there won’t be enough young people working to pay for all of the benefits owed to those who are retiring benefits.  One of the ten things you should know is that Social Security currently replaces only about 40% of the average retirees income–so you need a plan to provide for at least 60%.  (Thanks a lot baby boomers!)
  • A portion of your benefits may be taxed if your overall income is higher than established threshold.
Distribution Strategies:

  • One strategy is to position your reliable income sources – the income you have contractual guarantees to receive in retirement – to pay for your basic needs, so you know they’ll be covered. Next, use your other retirement assets to supplement any gap in the income you absolutely need, and then pay for the things you want to enhance your lifestyle.
  • Leverage savings accounts and IRAs for tax efficiency by contributing to a traditional IRA to defer more taxes when income tax is high and covert to Roth and pay taxes when the tax is lower. 
  • Stuff about Life Insurance and Annuities that I'm not sure I fully understand or believe are worth while currently.  

 
lod001 said:
Yeah, the 5% of the population that can actually do that. Most people will be working thru retirement and paying taxes on their income and SS. I know over 90% won't be giving any $ away...cause they won't have any to give away.
Huh?  When I'm retired I don't plan on making over 32K of income, cuz I'm retired.  

 
Social Security:

  • If you wait until full retirement age, you’ll be eligible for the maximum amount of payout available based on your lifelong earnings. Delaying benefits as long as you can will increase the amount you are eligible to receive.
Just to clarify, FRA for us will be 67.  Delaying til 70 will result in the maximum amount of payout.  Also, delaying beyond 70 has no additional benefit

 
Huh?  When I'm retired I don't plan on making over 32K of income, cuz I'm retired.  
Some of this will depend on your investments and how you intend to fund your retirement expenses.

If you have a 401k or non Roth IRA's funding your retirement, every time you take a distribution from a source like this, the government considers it income and you will be taxed on it.

Most retired people, even with no jobs, have plenty of income from various sources to live off of, some of which gets taxed.

 
SS and tax deductible IRA/401k count as income
So if I'm set to get around $30,000 a year in SS I'm going to end up paying taxes on SS no matter what.  Otherwise I won't be able to use any of my pre-tax savings.  Am I understanding that right?  What if I cash out all pre-tax before I retire retirement age?

 
  What if I cash out all pre-tax before I retire retirement age?
Depending on your age and what investment vehicle you are in the government does not look favorably upon this and can levy penalties.

Lets for example say you cash out 100% of a 401k before you retire and you don't put it into another pre-tax vehicle before you are 59.5.

You would have to pay a 10% penalty off the top and then pay your regular income taxes (state and federal) on the full amount you withdraw.

 
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  What if I cash out all pre-tax before I retire retirement age?
Depending on your age and what investment vehicle you are in the government does not look favorably upon this and can levy penalties.

Lets for example say you cash out 100% of a 401k before you retire and you don't put it into another pre-tax vehicle before you are 59.5.

You would have to pay a 10% penalty on the top and then pay your regular income taxes (state and federal) on the full amount you withdraw.




 
How much post-tax do you have in there?  You can pull that out tax free.  

 
Some of this will depend on your investments and how you intend to fund your retirement expenses.

If you have a 401k or non Roth IRA's funding your retirement, every time you take a distribution from a source like this, the government considers it income and you will be taxed on it.

Most retired people, even with no jobs, have plenty of income from various sources to live off of, some of which gets taxed.
I understand I'm going to get taxed on any pre-tax investment (including any early withdrawal penalties).  I guess what I'm looking for, if any exist, are strategies to avoid or minimize the SS getting taxed.  TIA.

 
I just need to start re-running numbers.  I don't know why, but, I got caught off guard a little bit not knowing SS was taxable income.  Better to find out now than later I guess. Thanks guys.

 
That isn't considered income with respect to SS moron.
Well, capital gains (along with other sources of "income") are indeed considered when the taxable amount of SS is calculated. 

http://m.kiplinger.com/article/taxes/T055-C000-S002-limit-taxes-on-capital-gains-in-retirement.html

"Capital gains could increase taxes on Social Security benefits. Your AGI plays a critical role in how much, if any, of your Social Security benefits will be taxed. If your "provisional income" (your AGI plus 50% of your Social Security benefits plus any tax-free interest) exceeds $44,000 on a joint return, it's likely that 85% of your benefits will be taxed. As you consider taking profits, remember that capital gains are included in the calculation, even if they're tax-free, because they're part of your AGI, says Mark Luscombe, federal tax analyst for CCH, a leading publisher of tax information. If you have provisional income of $44,000 or less, less than 85% of your benefits will be taxed. Alternatively, if you're a recent retiree, taking advantage of the 0% tax break to generate tax-free income could enable you to postpone filing for Social Security, which can lead to higher lifetime benefits."

 
All this angst about distributions and taxes reminds me why I love the Roth IRA so much. Sure, it stinks to pay taxes now but I can bump right up against the top of the 15% tax bracket so the tax burden is contained (I'm not a huge income earner so your case may be different.) But the positives are pretty great. I won't have RMDs on my Roth funds and, of course, I won't have to pay taxes on them in retirement. The flexibility with distributions is sometimes overlooked. It will enable me to control my tax bill. I can draw funds if I need them or wait if I'm already flush with RMDs and SS payments. No taxes on the gains like my brokerage account.

if you are sweating taxes in retirement due to SS income, you can ameliorate that problem by going Roth.

 
The roth is great, except the paltry contribution amounts.

I do it, but it's pretty hard to get excited about something that's going to amount to probably 15 to 20 percent of a portfolio.

I'm super aggressive in that account now. One hundred percent stocks

 
The roth is great, except the paltry contribution amounts.

I do it, but it's pretty hard to get excited about something that's going to amount to probably 15 to 20 percent of a portfolio.

I'm super aggressive in that account now. One hundred percent stocks
How about a 401k roth?

 
How about a 401k roth?
I do this now that it is available at my work. My contributions are into the Roth, by law the matching that I get is traditional, so I get some built in tax diversification there and am able to grow the amount of funds in a Roth account faster that I can with just a Roth IRA.

For me the Roth 401K just became an option last year, so my 401K is still heavily traditional, but slowly but surely the Roth side is catching up in value.

 
So if I'm set to get around $30,000 a year in SS I'm going to end up paying taxes on SS no matter what.  Otherwise I won't be able to use any of my pre-tax savings.  Am I understanding that right?  What if I cash out all pre-tax before I retire retirement age?
The calculation to determine taxable SS is one half of your SS benefits plus other income.  If you are married you could collect $30,000 of SS and still generate $17,000 of other income and not have the SS included in income. Also the taxable portion of SS phases in from 0% to 85% of benefits collected so you will never pay tax on all your SS.  Don't forget that you also get a standard deduction and personal exemption so even if it is included in income you may not actually pay tax.

Also, one trap people fall into is that tax exempt interest still counts as income for purposes of determining taxable social security.  If someone collected $30,000 and had $50,000 of tax exempt muni bond interest $25,500 (85% x $30,000) of the SS would be taxable income.

 
How about a 401k roth?
Read up before diving into this.  Many don't like this vehicle.  I don't have it available, so haven't researched it heavi
It's more or less what your time horizon is, and how much tax savings you want now.  I think for people in their 20s the Roth 401k is the way to go, but as you increase your earnings and take on the expenses your 30s and 40s bring, it is usually a better idea to use the traditional 401k IMO. 

I went back and forth on it for awhile but I just decided to max 401k contributions through the traditional method as I have some idea what my taxes will be in retirement.  Some financial talking heads books suggest that you should commit all your contributions to the Roth if you are under 30 and especially if you're in the 15% tax bracket. 

 
Read up before diving into this.  Many don't like this vehicle.  I don't have it available, so haven't researched it heavily.
Oh, I wasn't saying I'd do it.   I prefer the non-roth 401k as i'll be in a much lower bracket in retirement.  Was just responding to dentist saying that a roth has such a low contribution limit but for him it apparently does b/c he doesn't have the 401k option.

 
It's more or less what your time horizon is, and how much tax savings you want now.  I think for people in their 20s the Roth 401k is the way to go, but as you increase your earnings and take on the expenses your 30s and 40s bring, it is usually a better idea to use the traditional 401k IMO. 

I went back and forth on it for awhile but I just decided to max 401k contributions through the traditional method as I have some idea what my taxes will be in retirement.  Some financial talking heads books suggest that you should commit all your contributions to the Roth if you are under 30 and especially if you're in the 15% tax bracket. 
Age/Time until retirement should have nothing to do with choosing between traditional/roth.  Tax bracket and expected tax bracket at retirement are the only things to care about.  Some financial talking heads (Dave Ramsey being one) do not understand the tax treatment of traditional/roth and often give very bad advice.

 
Does anyone have any experience with Betterment or Schwab Intelligent Portfolios?

I changed jobs last fall to a company that doesn't offer a 401k.  Blows not being able to shield $18k/yr from the government.  Have been using what I would've saved in retirement accounts to pay off student loans that are at 6.5%.  Down to my last $3k so soon will need to start saving in a taxable account.  Was reading about Betterment and how they let you pick an allocation and invest in low cost index funds for you, with auto rebalancing and tax loss harvesting (the most interesting thing about the service) for a pretty low fee (.25% for $10-100k, .15% for >$100k).  Schwab does the same for free, though from what I read the knock on them is they get their "fee" by forcing you to keep a certain percentage of your portfolio in cash (I believe I read the most aggressive asset allocation still makes you keep 6% in cash).

Since this is in a taxable account the tax loss harvesting is the main thing I'm interested in.  Otherwise I'd just put the money in VFIAX in my Vanguard account.
Bumping this to see if anyone has any insight...

 
My daughter is a rising senior and getting ready for college.

It looks like she will be going private and the expected total cost will be around $265k on average over the 4 years.

We will not be getting any financial aid.

Merit scholarships are a possibility if she does not get into her first choice of Brown (which does not offer any merit). I am not expecting she will get into Brown so the possibility of merit exists but for the sake of this discussion, assume $0 in merit.

We have saved up around $180k in her 529 plan.

*If I assume the $180k will not cover the total cost, what is the best way to withdraw?  Do I simply drain the 529 completely first before I send in our non 529 money or do I balance each year of some 529 money and some non 529 money?

*How do I actually withdraw the 529 money? Do I request a check be sent to me which I deposit and then write my own check to college or do I tell the 529 to send money directly to school?

 
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My daughter is a rising senior and getting ready for college.

It looks like she will be going private and the expected total cost will be around $265k on average over the 4 years.

We will not be getting any financial aid.

Merit scholarships are a possibility if she does not get into her first choice of Brown (which does not offer any merit). I am not expecting she will get into Brown so the possibility of merit exists but for the sake of this discussion, assume $0 in merit.

We have saved up around $180k in her 529 plan.

*If I assume the $180k will not cover the total cost, what is the best way to withdraw?  Do I simply drain the 529 completely first before I send in our non 529 money or do I balance each year of some 529 money and some non 529 money?

*How do I actually withdraw the 529 money? Do I request a check be sent to me which I deposit and then write my own check to college or do I tell the 529 to send money directly to school?
:eek:  

 
I like the idea of mixing a Roth with traditional to give you some flexibility with taxes in retirement. 
:yes:    we're just slightly over 50% Roth vs. Traditional in our retirement accounts.  but, we'll be over $32k in income just for the pension, SS will add another $28k-$35k.  FWIW, this total amount, without including withdrawals, is about 3/4 of our current taxable income.  With that in mind, would it be smarter to put everything in the Roth?

 
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If I assume the $180k will not cover the total cost, what is the best way to withdraw?  Do I simply drain the 529 completely first before I send in our non 529 money or do I balance each year of some 529 money and some non 529 money?


Stupid board. 

The big thing is going to be subsidized v. unsubsidized loans. Figure out how much she will be eligible in subsidized student loans. If that number is greater than the estimated cost of attendance-529 savings, you want to load the subsidized loans as much as possible into her earliest years. That gives the 529 more time to compound and you don't feel the sting of accrued interest.

If subsidized loans will not cover the estimated cost of attendance-529 figure, you want to save the unsubsidized loans until she is as close to graduation as possible.

Rereading, looks like you're going to pay entirely out of pocket, no loans at all (are you adopting a 37 year old who is still paying them off). In that case I'd lean towards using the 529 first because you are pulling cash from an area with the most amount of restrictions. I would look into turning the 529 into an asset down the road. I know many folks who have had good luck with buying a house in an LLC, having their kid live off campus with roommates, collecting rent from the roommates and drawing on the LLC to pay the board portion of the estimated cost of attendance.

If you have the cash to pay our of pocket, I'd still recommend looking into maxing out your subsidized loan eligibility. Because interest doesn't accrue until graduation, you basically get to borrow that money for free.

 
Late to the party on this question for Dentist, but 12 grand a year for health and fitness?

And a general question for the crowd.  I know I have seen this somewhere on here but would be hard to find, and easy for one of you to answer.  Regarding the "order" of things to invest in (if you have a 403b through work), is this the correct route (assuming no debt other than house and car with low interest rate)?

1- 100% of company match for 403b

2- Max Roth IRA

3- Max 403b

If I am able to max both the 403b and roth IRA, what should come next?  I am still looking into my HSA option for 2017.  If I do decide to go with the HSA where would that fall into place?  Before or after any of the above listed items?

Also what else might I be missing and in what order should it all be?  TIA

 
Late to the party on this question for Dentist, but 12 grand a year for health and fitness?

And a general question for the crowd.  I know I have seen this somewhere on here but would be hard to find, and easy for one of you to answer.  Regarding the "order" of things to invest in (if you have a 403b through work), is this the correct route (assuming no debt other than house and car with low interest rate)?

1- 100% of company match for 403b

2- Max Roth IRA

3- Max 403b

If I am able to max both the 403b and roth IRA, what should come next?  I am still looking into my HSA option for 2017.  If I do decide to go with the HSA where would that fall into place?  Before or after any of the above listed items?

Also what else might I be missing and in what order should it all be?  TIA
Even when you qualify for Medicare, you're still going to need secondary coverage and for two people that will easily be a grand a month by the time we're ready for it.  Perhaps more.  This will likely be your single largest expense outlay when you retire.

 
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1- 100% of company match for 403

2.  Fully fund HSA

3- Max Roth IRA

4- Max 403b

  If I do decide to go with the HSA where would that fall into place?  Before or after any of the above listed items?
HSA is right near the top.  It has better tax privileges than any other tax sheltered account and should be at the top of your list.  Only reason it's #2 is due to matching monies.

 
Stupid board. 

The big thing is going to be subsidized v. unsubsidized loans. Figure out how much she will be eligible in subsidized student loans. If that number is greater than the estimated cost of attendance-529 savings, you want to load the subsidized loans as much as possible into her earliest years. That gives the 529 more time to compound and you don't feel the sting of accrued interest.

If subsidized loans will not cover the estimated cost of attendance-529 figure, you want to save the unsubsidized loans until she is as close to graduation as possible.

Rereading, looks like you're going to pay entirely out of pocket, no loans at all (are you adopting a 37 year old who is still paying them off). In that case I'd lean towards using the 529 first because you are pulling cash from an area with the most amount of restrictions. I would look into turning the 529 into an asset down the road. I know many folks who have had good luck with buying a house in an LLC, having their kid live off campus with roommates, collecting rent from the roommates and drawing on the LLC to pay the board portion of the estimated cost of attendance.

If you have the cash to pay our of pocket, I'd still recommend looking into maxing out your subsidized loan eligibility. Because interest doesn't accrue until graduation, you basically get to borrow that money for free.
Thank you for the info.

 I was planning on going with no loans (I don't understand "the 37 year old  part" of your comment but that may be just a joke I am missing) but you are right, I should at least look into any loans that are interest free for a few years, there is no reason to ignore those, assuming they amount to anything significant.

 
I am an idiot.  I wasn't even thinking about health insurance as part of that 12 grand. 
Health Ins. is $700 a month for me,  had a baby in that last twelve months,  I wear contacts so there's another $400-500 a year,  Wife has a gym membership.

I think that's pretty reasonable..    it might be more like 10K this year.

 
Thank you for the info.

 I was planning on going with no loans (I don't understand "the 37 year old  part" of your comment but that may be just a joke I am missing) but you are right, I should at least look into any loans that are interest free for a few years, there is no reason to ignore those, assuming they amount to anything significant.
Yeah, meant to be a joke.

I finished law school in 2010 and still have loans. IIRC, I could take 8500 a semester is subsidized, but haven't stayed on top of student loan info since then. Over 4 years, that's 61000. Just roughly, assuming you can make 5%, by maxing subsidized loans and then repaying on graduation (you actually have 6 months from grad date), that's 5K+ you could save yourself. (850+1742.50+2679.62)

ETA: It also will help with her credit score at a time when there's not much on it. Having that debt reported as on-time and paid in full, even if paid off that quickly will help as she wants to get an apartment down the road.

 
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