Ran a 10k in June (5 Viewers)

[2Young2BBald]

I bought clipless pedals & shoes for the bike yesterday and need a bit of help. I tried to get the straps off the cranks, but they are not budging. I think the shop where I bought the bike over tightened them and I am afraid I'll damage them if I torque too hard. Are the a "lefty loosy, righty tighty" or are the reverse threaded like plumbing? There is no allen in the back like the clipless pedals to get a good hold, so I have to do a metric wrench instead. Is there a way to steady the crank so I can apply enough pressure to get them off, OR am I better suited to take it to the shop and have them do it? I went with mountain bike shoes versus straight road shoes as I think I can strap in to the shoes on the pedals at tri T1, but want to come out of them entering T2 versus trying to strap our and I'd of course trash the clip running on road shoes. I think I may wait until after the 2 tris I have in the next month to use the clips as I don't think I'll be secure with them. Although, I may give them a try on Saturday and see how I do. I am going to start with the tension way down until I get the hang of clipping out in the attempt to not fall (which I've heard is a clip right of passage).

Slow down. I tried to get the straps off the cranks, but they are not budging. What straps are you talking about?

There is no allen in the back like the clipless pedals to get a good hold I'm not sure what you are talking about here, but I'm certain whatever it is is not meant to be taking any force of any kind.

Lets start over.

I think you are trying to get your flat pedals off. Correct?

The left and right pedals are left and right threaded respectively to the crank arm.

Removing the pedals without a pedal wrench ($5) is hard. A C-wrench doesn't quite cut it usually, though in a pinch can work.

Sheldon has some tips below.

mytagid = Math.floor( Math.random() * 100 );document.write("

What's the trick to removing pedals? Of the three times that I have tried to remove my pedals (I have two bikes and am in the process of exchanging/switching pedals) I have only succeeded once. The main problem is the pedals have been put on very tightly and I can't even budge the damn thing.

Left and right pedals have left and right threads respectively, and are best removed with a long handled 15 mm pedal wrench. Rather than using any clever wrench orientation or other methods to determine which way to tighten or loosen pedals, use the rule that rotating "forward" (as the wheels of the bicycle do) tightens and rotating "backward" loosens.

Pedals are often made with tight fitting threads in an effort to improve the hold of this poorly designed mechanical interface. The intent is to prevent relative motion under load although they move anyway. If that were not the case, the threads would not be left and right handed. That they move is also apparent from damage where the pedal axle frets against the crank face, the main causes of crank failures at the pedal eye. Besides damaging the crank face, fretting motion depletes thread lubrication and causes galling (aka welding) so that pedals often cannot be removed forcefully without damaging pedal shafts, wrenches, or cranks so that forceful removal strips threads.

To remove "frozen" pedals from an aluminum crank, remove the crank and pedal from the BB spindle, heat the pedal end of the crank over gas flame cooking stove until it sizzles to the wet touch. Using a pedal wrench, the pedal usually unscrews relatively easily without damage. If a lubricated pedal with clean threads does not screw in easily, a thread tap should be run through the crank to prevent galling on insertion. This is best done on the bicycle, where the crank is held firmly by the BB and prevented from rotation by the chain. To keep chain tension to a minimum (so the rear wheel does not spin), keep the pedal wrench as parallel to the crank as possible rather than as an extension to the crank.

*** SPOILER ALERT! Click this link to display the potential spoiler text in this box. ***");document.close();

I would strongly advise against loosening the tension of the clips. If you get up out of the saddle and bear down and have any lateral play in the foot you could come out of the pedal. Most pedals out of the box are already set up quite loose and need to be tightened a few revolutions for saftey, not the other way around. Nobody falls over because they can't get out of the pedal. They fall over because they forget to get un-clipped until it's too late. It happens once to you and you will remember.

Yep, flat pedals with straps. I am heading to the shop in a few to have the pull them and buy the proper tool and watch them do the work. I want to be able to switch back to the flat pedals if my confdence in the clips isn't there by race day a wek from Sunday. One more question for now. Can you describe what "right" tension feels like, or should for someone new to the clips. Obviously, popping out would feel too loose, but what about from there? Thanks for the help.

 

[culdeus]

I bought clipless pedals & shoes for the bike yesterday and need a bit of help. I tried to get the straps off the cranks, but they are not budging. I think the shop where I bought the bike over tightened them and I am afraid I'll damage them if I torque too hard. Are the a "lefty loosy, righty tighty" or are the reverse threaded like plumbing? There is no allen in the back like the clipless pedals to get a good hold, so I have to do a metric wrench instead. Is there a way to steady the crank so I can apply enough pressure to get them off, OR am I better suited to take it to the shop and have them do it? I went with mountain bike shoes versus straight road shoes as I think I can strap in to the shoes on the pedals at tri T1, but want to come out of them entering T2 versus trying to strap our and I'd of course trash the clip running on road shoes. I think I may wait until after the 2 tris I have in the next month to use the clips as I don't think I'll be secure with them. Although, I may give them a try on Saturday and see how I do. I am going to start with the tension way down until I get the hang of clipping out in the attempt to not fall (which I've heard is a clip right of passage).

Slow down. I tried to get the straps off the cranks, but they are not budging. What straps are you talking about?

There is no allen in the back like the clipless pedals to get a good hold I'm not sure what you are talking about here, but I'm certain whatever it is is not meant to be taking any force of any kind.

Lets start over.

I think you are trying to get your flat pedals off. Correct?

The left and right pedals are left and right threaded respectively to the crank arm.

Removing the pedals without a pedal wrench ($5) is hard. A C-wrench doesn't quite cut it usually, though in a pinch can work.

Sheldon has some tips below.

mytagid = Math.floor( Math.random() * 100 );document.write("

What's the trick to removing pedals? Of the three times that I have tried to remove my pedals (I have two bikes and am in the process of exchanging/switching pedals) I have only succeeded once. The main problem is the pedals have been put on very tightly and I can't even budge the damn thing.

Left and right pedals have left and right threads respectively, and are best removed with a long handled 15 mm pedal wrench. Rather than using any clever wrench orientation or other methods to determine which way to tighten or loosen pedals, use the rule that rotating "forward" (as the wheels of the bicycle do) tightens and rotating "backward" loosens.

Pedals are often made with tight fitting threads in an effort to improve the hold of this poorly designed mechanical interface. The intent is to prevent relative motion under load although they move anyway. If that were not the case, the threads would not be left and right handed. That they move is also apparent from damage where the pedal axle frets against the crank face, the main causes of crank failures at the pedal eye. Besides damaging the crank face, fretting motion depletes thread lubrication and causes galling (aka welding) so that pedals often cannot be removed forcefully without damaging pedal shafts, wrenches, or cranks so that forceful removal strips threads.

To remove "frozen" pedals from an aluminum crank, remove the crank and pedal from the BB spindle, heat the pedal end of the crank over gas flame cooking stove until it sizzles to the wet touch. Using a pedal wrench, the pedal usually unscrews relatively easily without damage. If a lubricated pedal with clean threads does not screw in easily, a thread tap should be run through the crank to prevent galling on insertion. This is best done on the bicycle, where the crank is held firmly by the BB and prevented from rotation by the chain. To keep chain tension to a minimum (so the rear wheel does not spin), keep the pedal wrench as parallel to the crank as possible rather than as an extension to the crank.

*** SPOILER ALERT! Click this link to display the potential spoiler text in this box. ***");document.close();

I would strongly advise against loosening the tension of the clips. If you get up out of the saddle and bear down and have any lateral play in the foot you could come out of the pedal. Most pedals out of the box are already set up quite loose and need to be tightened a few revolutions for saftey, not the other way around. Nobody falls over because they can't get out of the pedal. They fall over because they forget to get un-clipped until it's too late. It happens once to you and you will remember.

Yep, flat pedals with straps. I am heading to the shop in a few to have the pull them and buy the proper tool and watch them do the work. I want to be able to switch back to the flat pedals if my confdence in the clips isn't there by race day a wek from Sunday. One more question for now. Can you describe what "right" tension feels like, or should for someone new to the clips. Obviously, popping out would feel too loose, but what about from there? Thanks for the help.

Then why pull the straps off? I'm lost. You should be able to get them off with a c-wrench unless something is really bound up. And if that's the case a vise would have to be used at a minimum or heat.Most racers tighten the living hell out of their pedals. I'm not sure what type you are going with, but you do want to feel at least a little resistance to turning out your foot, but not enough that you are having to twist your ankle to do so. This can be debugged on a trainer fairly easily or just standing on one foot while clipped in the other.

If you got a "one sided" pedal like a look style pedal then you might have some issue learning how to get it flipped up right, but after a few rides you'll get the hang of it. That's usually the hardest part.

 

[IvanKaramazov]

The Roarin Girls had to run a mile at school yesterday. My 12yo finished in 15:13 (not sure if she walked or not), and my 13yo showed off daddy's genes with a 9:26. roudpapa:

Meh. I could smoke both of them.

 

[2Young2BBald]

I bought clipless pedals & shoes for the bike yesterday and need a bit of help. I tried to get the straps off the cranks, but they are not budging. I think the shop where I bought the bike over tightened them and I am afraid I'll damage them if I torque too hard. Are the a "lefty loosy, righty tighty" or are the reverse threaded like plumbing? There is no allen in the back like the clipless pedals to get a good hold, so I have to do a metric wrench instead. Is there a way to steady the crank so I can apply enough pressure to get them off, OR am I better suited to take it to the shop and have them do it? I went with mountain bike shoes versus straight road shoes as I think I can strap in to the shoes on the pedals at tri T1, but want to come out of them entering T2 versus trying to strap our and I'd of course trash the clip running on road shoes. I think I may wait until after the 2 tris I have in the next month to use the clips as I don't think I'll be secure with them. Although, I may give them a try on Saturday and see how I do. I am going to start with the tension way down until I get the hang of clipping out in the attempt to not fall (which I've heard is a clip right of passage).

Slow down. I tried to get the straps off the cranks, but they are not budging. What straps are you talking about?

There is no allen in the back like the clipless pedals to get a good hold I'm not sure what you are talking about here, but I'm certain whatever it is is not meant to be taking any force of any kind.

Lets start over.

I think you are trying to get your flat pedals off. Correct?

The left and right pedals are left and right threaded respectively to the crank arm.

Removing the pedals without a pedal wrench ($5) is hard. A C-wrench doesn't quite cut it usually, though in a pinch can work.

Sheldon has some tips below.

mytagid = Math.floor( Math.random() * 100 );document.write("

What's the trick to removing pedals? Of the three times that I have tried to remove my pedals (I have two bikes and am in the process of exchanging/switching pedals) I have only succeeded once. The main problem is the pedals have been put on very tightly and I can't even budge the damn thing.

Left and right pedals have left and right threads respectively, and are best removed with a long handled 15 mm pedal wrench. Rather than using any clever wrench orientation or other methods to determine which way to tighten or loosen pedals, use the rule that rotating "forward" (as the wheels of the bicycle do) tightens and rotating "backward" loosens.

Pedals are often made with tight fitting threads in an effort to improve the hold of this poorly designed mechanical interface. The intent is to prevent relative motion under load although they move anyway. If that were not the case, the threads would not be left and right handed. That they move is also apparent from damage where the pedal axle frets against the crank face, the main causes of crank failures at the pedal eye. Besides damaging the crank face, fretting motion depletes thread lubrication and causes galling (aka welding) so that pedals often cannot be removed forcefully without damaging pedal shafts, wrenches, or cranks so that forceful removal strips threads.

To remove "frozen" pedals from an aluminum crank, remove the crank and pedal from the BB spindle, heat the pedal end of the crank over gas flame cooking stove until it sizzles to the wet touch. Using a pedal wrench, the pedal usually unscrews relatively easily without damage. If a lubricated pedal with clean threads does not screw in easily, a thread tap should be run through the crank to prevent galling on insertion. This is best done on the bicycle, where the crank is held firmly by the BB and prevented from rotation by the chain. To keep chain tension to a minimum (so the rear wheel does not spin), keep the pedal wrench as parallel to the crank as possible rather than as an extension to the crank.

*** SPOILER ALERT! Click this link to display the potential spoiler text in this box. ***");document.close();

I would strongly advise against loosening the tension of the clips. If you get up out of the saddle and bear down and have any lateral play in the foot you could come out of the pedal. Most pedals out of the box are already set up quite loose and need to be tightened a few revolutions for saftey, not the other way around. Nobody falls over because they can't get out of the pedal. They fall over because they forget to get un-clipped until it's too late. It happens once to you and you will remember.

Yep, flat pedals with straps. I am heading to the shop in a few to have the pull them and buy the proper tool and watch them do the work. I want to be able to switch back to the flat pedals if my confdence in the clips isn't there by race day a wek from Sunday. One more question for now. Can you describe what "right" tension feels like, or should for someone new to the clips. Obviously, popping out would feel too loose, but what about from there? Thanks for the help.

Then why pull the straps off? I'm lost. You should be able to get them off with a c-wrench unless something is really bound up. And if that's the case a vise would have to be used at a minimum or heat.Most racers tighten the living hell out of their pedals. I'm not sure what type you are going with, but you do want to feel at least a little resistance to turning out your foot, but not enough that you are having to twist your ankle to do so. This can be debugged on a trainer fairly easily or just standing on one foot while clipped in the other.

If you got a "one sided" pedal like a look style pedal then you might have some issue learning how to get it flipped up right, but after a few rides you'll get the hang of it. That's usually the hardest part.

That is just it, I can't get the pedal to budge at all with a c wrench. It's the shops problem now as they put them on. I try to idiot proof everthing I do for any event, so I bought dual sided clips. I'll stop for now and report back with full detail on my agony of defeat-esque wipe outs when/if I get the clips on.

 

[Sand]

That is just it, I can't get the pedal to budge at all with a c wrench. It's the shops problem now as they put them on. I try to idiot proof everthing I do for any event, so I bought dual sided clips. I'll stop for now and report back with full detail on my agony of defeat-esque wipe outs when/if I get the clips on.

What kind of clips are they? Shimanos have an adjustable tension that you can make quite loose. I have dual sided clips and like them a bunch. As far as agony goes I doubt you'll have that much issue. #1 you are an FFAer and pretty much could jump into the Tour de France just on natural ability. #2 clipless really aren't that hard to get used to. Just make it a point to clip out BOTH feet when you come to a stop. Most of the falls happen when you clip out the right foot and end up leaning left when you stop. Not that I would know.Oh, and if you do fall, fall to the left. Unless there is traffic. Then endo - better your head than the drivetrain.

 

[pigskinliquors]

I am starting to like the bike, but I can't keep my left thumb from going numb. Today, I swam 2,000 yards after pitching an hour of BP.

Hey PSL, have you've tried CW-X Compression Socks? I don't like them for long runs, but I really like them on the bike and short runs.

Finally,I might have to add an HTFU sticker to the race vehicle.

Hey 2Young. I haven't tried the CW-X's but will certainly look into them. Regarding the numb thumb; try putting your hand behind your back every once in awhile. I have never had "numb-hands" from riding, but was riding with someone who puts his hands behind his back to avoid them numbing (worth a shot) re: pedals; you will have no problem adjusting to clipless. Practice getting in/out on a trainer if you have one. Also, if you see anything hanky (i.e., slowing car; young kid, an armadillo = from personal experience!) in front of you, clip out early.

LOVE the HTFU sticker

 

[meeka]

Went for a run last night and it was tough. I felt pretty tired and I figured my legs were still a little sore from the 12+ on Saturday. I ran 10K and had to walk for a minute up the biggest hill that is around mile 5. That was wierd I never have had to walk up that hill before. I started up again and I was tired, so I slowed my pace for the last mile and started a cool down loop up and down my street. After going inside to get something to drink I started sweating like crazy. This was at 8:20. I was still sweating well after 9:30 last night. It was almost 10 before I hopped in the shower. I knew it was a warm day yesterday, but I found out this morning that it was still in the 90s at 7 0'clock last night. Running in that kind of heat is a whole new ballgame. It was a very interesting challenge to deal with those temps. It is supposed to be hot again tonight, so I may have to go for a shorter run tonight. My legs are much more sore today than they typically are after a run. A good learning experience for me.

 

[Keggers]

Contemplating piggy-backing on my success from last Sunday and running the Madison Marathon this coming Sunday. Stay tuned..... :(

I'm going to be there too! Only NOT as a participant...going to watch the girlfriend do the 1/2. Should be good weather!ETA: Good luck if you end up going!

 

[pigskinliquors]

My update: I did the tri-fecta yesterday. I got up early and ran 4 miles a bit quicker than the last. In the late afternoon I went for an 18 mile bike ride; and followed that with an immediate 300 yard swim. The swim was spent dodging kids in the pool, as it doesn't have swim lanes (= our small community pool). Legs are a bit tight today = rest day. Tomorrow, I'll up the run to 5 miles, and will do an 11 mile ride in to work, then 15 miles back home.

 

[2Young2BBald]

Contemplating piggy-backing on my success from last Sunday and running the Madison Marathon this coming Sunday. Stay tuned.....

I'm going to be there too! Only NOT as a participant...going to watch the girlfriend do the 1/2. Should be good weather!ETA: Good luck if you end up going!

Just an FYI, some race outfits offer vouchers for future races to volunteers. I have not volunteered, but plan on volunteering at a race or two in the fall voucher or not as I think it'd be cool to watch a race from a single vantage point and give back a bit.

 

[2Young2BBald]

That is just it, I can't get the pedal to budge at all with a c wrench. It's the shops problem now as they put them on. I try to idiot proof everthing I do for any event, so I bought dual sided clips. I'll stop for now and report back with full detail on my agony of defeat-esque wipe outs when/if I get the clips on.

What kind of clips are they? Shimanos have an adjustable tension that you can make quite loose. I have dual sided clips and like them a bunch. As far as agony goes I doubt you'll have that much issue. #1 you are an FFAer and pretty much could jump into the Tour de France just on natural ability. #2 clipless really aren't that hard to get used to. Just make it a point to clip out BOTH feet when you come to a stop. Most of the falls happen when you clip out the right foot and end up leaning left when you stop. Not that I would know.Oh, and if you do fall, fall to the left. Unless there is traffic. Then endo - better your head than the drivetrain.

They are the dual sided Shimanos and they are on the bike. My guy had a HUGE Park wrench just for the pedals and getting them off and on was a breeze. Fearing I may #### out on the clips for the next race, I got him to agree to order me one at his cost (after he sold me a couple of tubes and a few other items) so I could switch back to the straps if needed. I played with the tension and getting in and out on the trainer, next step is a real ride in about an hour.

 

[culdeus]

That is just it, I can't get the pedal to budge at all with a c wrench. It's the shops problem now as they put them on. I try to idiot proof everthing I do for any event, so I bought dual sided clips. I'll stop for now and report back with full detail on my agony of defeat-esque wipe outs when/if I get the clips on.

What kind of clips are they? Shimanos have an adjustable tension that you can make quite loose. I have dual sided clips and like them a bunch. As far as agony goes I doubt you'll have that much issue. #1 you are an FFAer and pretty much could jump into the Tour de France just on natural ability. #2 clipless really aren't that hard to get used to. Just make it a point to clip out BOTH feet when you come to a stop. Most of the falls happen when you clip out the right foot and end up leaning left when you stop. Not that I would know.Oh, and if you do fall, fall to the left. Unless there is traffic. Then endo - better your head than the drivetrain.

They are the dual sided Shimanos and they are on the bike. My guy had a HUGE Park wrench just for the pedals and getting them off and on was a breeze. Fearing I may #### out on the clips for the next race, I got him to agree to order me one at his cost (after he sold me a couple of tubes and a few other items) so I could switch back to the straps if needed. I played with the tension and getting in and out on the trainer, next step is a real ride in about an hour.

Wrap yourself in bubble wrap.

 

[wraith5]

Finished in 1:30:10, good for 1st place in the Clydesdale division and a new PR by almost 2:30!

Very nice race, gruecd!! What officially constitudes a "clydesdale?" Do most races track that now? Been a looooong time (since June of 2007, I think) since I spent much time in here - having 2 little kids was just too much for me and I put running on the back burner. It was cool to look back at what I was doing 2 years ago, though... and a little disheartening to see how my times have increased! Anyway, semi-back on the horse now. Running the SoldierField10 this weekend and I'm signed up for the Chicago Rock'n'Roll 1/2 in August.

 

[Sand]

They are the dual sided Shimanos and they are on the bike. My guy had a HUGE Park wrench just for the pedals and getting them off and on was a breeze. Fearing I may #### out on the clips for the next race, I got him to agree to order me one at his cost (after he sold me a couple of tubes and a few other items) so I could switch back to the straps if needed. I played with the tension and getting in and out on the trainer, next step is a real ride in about an hour.

Clips are safer than straps. If you fall you instaclip out. Straps can hold you in.When I set my Shimanos up (M520s) I ended up tightening them to about 3 clicks tighter than the loosest position. I have had to dump a few times (MTB) and coming out of the clips is automatic.Most clipless based crashes are at super slow speed. In front of hot chicks. Again, not that I would know.

 

[gruecd]

....and I'm signed up for the Chicago Rock'n'Roll 1/2 in August.

Welcome back, wraith. A bunch of us here are also doing RNR Chicago: me, tri-man, and Mr. and Mrs. 2Young for sure.

 

[2Young2BBald]

....and I'm signed up for the Chicago Rock'n'Roll 1/2 in August.

Welcome back, wraith. A bunch of us here are also doing RNR Chicago: me, tri-man, and Mr. and Mrs. 2Young for sure.

eta for Harris

 

[2Young2BBald]

Wrap yourself in bubble wrap.

20 miles of bubble wrap free riding in the books & WOW what a difference. The whole ride went off without incident & I did go in and out of the clips about a dozen times with relative ease. I really thought I'd like popping the right side first, but after some trial and error, sitting up on th seat and popping the left side early and waiting to see if I had to come out of the right side seemed to work best. Found a huge difference on hills and when the wind was at my back. I also noticed that my right calf that almost always hurts when I ride did not hurt at all. Poking fun at myself, I swear the sound of my tires going round were making the sound clip, clips. clips, etc to remind me not to fall on my ###. Now I gotta figure out how to get into the shoes while they are locked on the bike. eta, forgot to comment/ask that my hips are a bit sore. I am guessing it is from the pull up on the upstroke (that I wasn't getting fully with the straps), right?

 

[Sand]

Wrap yourself in bubble wrap.

20 miles of bubble wrap free riding in the books & WOW what a difference. The whole ride went off without incident & I did go in and out of the clips about a dozen times with relative ease. I really thought I'd like popping the right side first, but after some trial and error, sitting up on th seat and popping the left side early and waiting to see if I had to come out of the right side seemed to work best. Found a huge difference on hills and when the wind was at my back. I also noticed that my right calf that almost always hurts when I ride did not hurt at all. Poking fun at myself, I swear the sound of my tires going round were making the sound clip, clips. clips, etc to remind me not to fall on my ###. Now I gotta figure out how to get into the shoes while they are locked on the bike. eta, forgot to comment/ask that my hips are a bit sore. I am guessing it is from the pull up on the upstroke (that I wasn't getting fully with the straps), right?

We wanted carnage and humiliation... Seriously, I'm not surprised that you had less calf action - clipping in makes you much more efficient and your calves don't have to do work to keep your feet on the pedals.To answer your last question your hip flexors do see a lot more action, particularly on climbs.

Glad you joined the club. They really do make a big difference.

 

[2Young2BBald]

We wanted carnage and humiliation...

Give it time it'll come. Hell, I've admitted to falling while running on flat pavement and run with socks up to my knees, there is plenty more embarassment in the hopper from me, I'm sure of it!

 

[culdeus]

Wrap yourself in bubble wrap.

20 miles of bubble wrap free riding in the books & WOW what a difference. The whole ride went off without incident & I did go in and out of the clips about a dozen times with relative ease. I really thought I'd like popping the right side first, but after some trial and error, sitting up on th seat and popping the left side early and waiting to see if I had to come out of the right side seemed to work best. Found a huge difference on hills and when the wind was at my back. I also noticed that my right calf that almost always hurts when I ride did not hurt at all. Poking fun at myself, I swear the sound of my tires going round were making the sound clip, clips. clips, etc to remind me not to fall on my ###. Now I gotta figure out how to get into the shoes while they are locked on the bike. eta, forgot to comment/ask that my hips are a bit sore. I am guessing it is from the pull up on the upstroke (that I wasn't getting fully with the straps), right?

Well changing your pedal type does affect the overall seat height. Albeit in a pretty minor way.

 

[2Young2BBald]

Wrap yourself in bubble wrap.

20 miles of bubble wrap free riding in the books & WOW what a difference. The whole ride went off without incident & I did go in and out of the clips about a dozen times with relative ease. I really thought I'd like popping the right side first, but after some trial and error, sitting up on th seat and popping the left side early and waiting to see if I had to come out of the right side seemed to work best. Found a huge difference on hills and when the wind was at my back. I also noticed that my right calf that almost always hurts when I ride did not hurt at all. Poking fun at myself, I swear the sound of my tires going round were making the sound clip, clips. clips, etc to remind me not to fall on my ###. Now I gotta figure out how to get into the shoes while they are locked on the bike. eta, forgot to comment/ask that my hips are a bit sore. I am guessing it is from the pull up on the upstroke (that I wasn't getting fully with the straps), right?

Well changing your pedal type does affect the overall seat height. Albeit in a pretty minor way.

Higher, lower, move it up, move it back, c'mon Yoda, share. It did feel like my backside was falling off the back of the seat a bit.

 

[culdeus]

Wrap yourself in bubble wrap.

20 miles of bubble wrap free riding in the books & WOW what a difference. The whole ride went off without incident & I did go in and out of the clips about a dozen times with relative ease. I really thought I'd like popping the right side first, but after some trial and error, sitting up on th seat and popping the left side early and waiting to see if I had to come out of the right side seemed to work best. Found a huge difference on hills and when the wind was at my back. I also noticed that my right calf that almost always hurts when I ride did not hurt at all. Poking fun at myself, I swear the sound of my tires going round were making the sound clip, clips. clips, etc to remind me not to fall on my ###. Now I gotta figure out how to get into the shoes while they are locked on the bike. eta, forgot to comment/ask that my hips are a bit sore. I am guessing it is from the pull up on the upstroke (that I wasn't getting fully with the straps), right?

Well changing your pedal type does affect the overall seat height. Albeit in a pretty minor way.

Higher, lower, move it up, move it back, c'mon Yoda, share. It did feel like my backside was falling off the back of the seat a bit.

There is a fine art to cleat positioning. Especially something like SPD which you've swapped to. One ride shouldn't make you break out the micrometer just yet.Messing with the seat is probably the second thing to worry about. There was a discussion on swapping from spd to look and someone posted the height differences between them. Maybe I can find that site from google faster than searching through this thread.

 

[gruecd]

eta for Harris

I think he said something about being out west this summer. Or maybe it was Europe. I can't remember, but I know he said that he's going to be gone someplace....

i'm heading to italy for 4 months on May 20th, anybody know of a way to find races there?

Yep, it was Europe....

 

[Keggers]

Contemplating piggy-backing on my success from last Sunday and running the Madison Marathon this coming Sunday. Stay tuned.....

I'm going to be there too! Only NOT as a participant...going to watch the girlfriend do the 1/2. Should be good weather!ETA: Good luck if you end up going!

Just an FYI, some race outfits offer vouchers for future races to volunteers. I have not volunteered, but plan on volunteering at a race or two in the fall voucher or not as I think it'd be cool to watch a race from a single vantage point and give back a bit.

Good tip! I never thought about doing that.

 

[gruecd]

Contemplating piggy-backing on my success from last Sunday and running the Madison Marathon this coming Sunday. Stay tuned.....

Registered....

 

[pigskinliquors]

Anyway, semi-back on the horse now. Running the SoldierField10 this weekend and I'm signed up for the Chicago Rock'n'Roll 1/2 in August.

Great to have you back wraith!

Now I gotta figure out how to get into the shoes while they are locked on the bike.

I've worked on this, but have decided it's not worth it. I can get into my tri-shoes in just a few seconds, while messing up trying to get into your shoes while they are on the bike can cost much more. I do undo the straps right before getting to T2, and step out of my shoes, while they are still on the bike. This is a much easier and less risky task.re: Seat height; changing pedals can make a difference. When I switched from Look to Speedplay their was more than a cm difference in my leg position (further from my pedals); and I had pain in the back of my knee. Once I moved my seat down approx. a cm, the pain went away. IF you have knee pain in the front of the knee = seat needs to be raised; pain in the back of the knee = seat needs to be lowered. For more info, check this sight out.

This comment:

It did feel like my backside was falling off the back of the seat a bit.

Makes me think that you most likely need to raise your seat just a tad. Do it in VERY small intervals, and don't have a long ride planned to test (i.e., 10 miles is a good test). You most likely are now slightly above the pedal with the cleats on (not the case with your straps), which is causing the slight change. _________________________________

My update:

I actually felt a bit like a runner today My calves felt a bit tight before starting, but loosened up quickly (OxySox on!), and I had an easy, pain free 5 miles. I didn't bike into work today, as my daughter has a dance recital that I'll need to run to later, but will swim at lunch instead = tomorrow will be a bike day now.

 

[pigskinliquors]

Contemplating piggy-backing on my success from last Sunday and running the Madison Marathon this coming Sunday. Stay tuned.....

Registered....

It's go time!!!!!!!! Madison is a great course; zooming by three different lakes :jealous: HTFU and qualify for Boston already!

 

[tri-man 47]

We wanted carnage and humiliation...

Give it time it'll come. Hell, I've admitted to wearing Martian running shirts, falling while running on flat pavement and run with socks up to my knees, there is plenty more embarassment in the hopper from me, I'm sure of it!

Fixed.Glad to hear about the clips! I switched to clips last year and it's been great - no falls to date (easier than trying to release a strap for stirrup pedals). It's no surprise that your legs are adjusting a bit to the rotation, now, with clips.

----

Good training for me, although I was very wiped by the weekend's lake swim, long hilly run, and heavy yard work. Over the past few days I've sandwiched a 75 minute bike workout with hard 5 minute intervals between Tues/Thurs 8 mile runs.

I've got an 8K trail race on June 6 and then my 1/2-Ironman one month from today (the 21st) ...getting totally stoked for triathlon as I now get into the mental prep.

 

[pigskinliquors]

For the cyclists: Giro d'Italia Stage 12 TT is now finished. It was a fairly hilly track for a TT and fairly long (37.7 miles)

Menchov took the overall lead by whooping everybody (except Levi) by more than a minute, averaging approx. 24pmh. With his second place finish, Levi is now in third overall, just :40 behind Menchov, and :06 behind Di Luca. Lance had a nice (not great) showing by placing 13th in the TT just 2:26 behind Menchov.

 

[RoarinSonoran]

Contemplating piggy-backing on my success from last Sunday and running the Madison Marathon this coming Sunday. Stay tuned.....

Registered....

The Stillwater Marathon is the same day. Do both?

 

[2Young2BBald]

Anyway, semi-back on the horse now. Running the SoldierField10 this weekend and I'm signed up for the Chicago Rock'n'Roll 1/2 in August.

Great to have you back wraith!

Now I gotta figure out how to get into the shoes while they are locked on the bike.

I've worked on this, but have decided it's not worth it. I can get into my tri-shoes in just a few seconds, while messing up trying to get into your shoes while they are on the bike can cost much more. I do undo the straps right before getting to T2, and step out of my shoes, while they are still on the bike. This is a much easier and less risky task.re: Seat height; changing pedals can make a difference. When I switched from Look to Speedplay their was more than a cm difference in my leg position (further from my pedals); and I had pain in the back of my knee. Once I moved my seat down approx. a cm, the pain went away. IF you have knee pain in the front of the knee = seat needs to be raised; pain in the back of the knee = seat needs to be lowered. For more info, check this sight out.

This comment:

It did feel like my backside was falling off the back of the seat a bit.

Makes me think that you most likely need to raise your seat just a tad. Do it in VERY small intervals, and don't have a long ride planned to test (i.e., 10 miles is a good test). You most likely are now slightly above the pedal with the cleats on (not the case with your straps), which is causing the slight change. _________________________________

My update:

I actually felt a bit like a runner today My calves felt a bit tight before starting, but loosened up quickly (OxySox on!), and I had an easy, pain free 5 miles. I didn't bike into work today, as my daughter has a dance recital that I'll need to run to later, but will swim at lunch instead = tomorrow will be a bike day now.

Great reply, thanks. Rereading twice and thinking just how comfortable I was over 20 miles for my 1st ride, it got me thinking that I might be close to right. I am meeting a buddy to ride again on Saturday Morning. I've got you link printed and will comapre again when we are done.

 

[2Young2BBald]

We wanted carnage and humiliation...

Give it time it'll come. Hell, I've admitted to wearing Martian running shirts, falling while running on flat pavement and run with socks up to my knees, there is plenty more embarassment in the hopper from me, I'm sure of it!

Fixed.

 

[wraith5]

....and I'm signed up for the Chicago Rock'n'Roll 1/2 in August.

Welcome back, wraith. A bunch of us here are also doing RNR Chicago: me, tri-man, and Mr. and Mrs. 2Young for sure.

Great to have you back wraith!

Thanks guys! Strange to think how quickly the time slipped by - my last race was the Distance Classic (now RnR Chicago) in August of 2007!! Good to know so many FBGs will be running the RnR Chicago! Surprised nobody has picked up the Soldier Field race - it's always been one of my favorites.

gruecd seriously please let me know about the whole clydesdale thing - at 200 lbs I'm very interested in learning more. (and good luck in the marathon!!)

tri-man - tell me about this trail series you're doing...

culdeus - Hi! I'm still riding and finally bought a pair of Nashbar dual-sided pedals this year that I can clip into... but I've only used them a couple of times so far out of fear of the previously mentioned carnage and humiliation (I damn near fell over just on my driveway when I got back).

FWIW, hoping to finish in under 83 minutes on Saturday.

 

[gruecd]

Very nice race, gruecd!!

What officially constitudes a "clydesdale?" Do most races track that now?

Fine, I suppose I can make an exception to my rule and help you, even despite the fact that you're a Cubs fan....Honestly, I'd say that most races don't offer the special Clydesdale (men 200+) or Athena (women 150+) divisions. In fact, I'm pretty sure that Green Bay is the only marathon/half marathon I've run that does. One of our local race directors does offer the Clydesdale in most of her races (mostly 5- and 10Ks), which is nice. I know that the half that I'm running in STL this summer does, too.

There's actually a "federation" for Clydesdale and Filly (Athena) runners. If you go to their website, there's actually a calendar of races that offer it. Pretty cool.

 

[tri-man 47]

tri-man - tell me about this trail series you're doing...

Here you go!They keep the number low so as to not overload the trails, which is nice. The terrain is gently rolling paths, much of it crushed limestone, but some dirt (=mud last year) and open field (=near-marsh last year).

 

[wraith5]

Very nice race, gruecd!!

What officially constitudes a "clydesdale?" Do most races track that now?

Fine, I suppose I can make an exception to my rule and help you, even despite the fact that you're a Cubs fan....

Oh, Lord - Brewers? Thanks for the info - guess it's "good" that most races don't care since I'm working hard to drop back to 195.

 

[wraith5]

tri-man - tell me about this trail series you're doing...

Here you go!They keep the number low so as to not overload the trails, which is nice. The terrain is gently rolling paths, much of it crushed limestone, but some dirt (=mud last year) and open field (=near-marsh last year).

Are all of those races at Deer Grove?!?? That's my normal run/bike route!! I had no idea... literally I do most of my running on the paved path that crosses the fire road, and I love riding/running back there when it's dry.

All races are located in Deer Grove West Forest Preserve in Palatine, Illinois.

ETA: found the answer to my question on the FAQ's page. Very cool - I'm going to see if I can sign up for any of them.

 

[wraith5]

tri-man - tell me about this trail series you're doing...

Here you go!They keep the number low so as to not overload the trails, which is nice. The terrain is gently rolling paths, much of it crushed limestone, but some dirt (=mud last year) and open field (=near-marsh last year).

officially signed up for the 8k!! Guess I'll see you in 2 weeks!!

 

[mr. furley]

switched up my running style to land more on the middle/front of my foot.. shin splints are gone

matter of fact all leg pain is gone. for now at least. haven't really run a long distance so i don't know how fatigue might factor in yet. but i feel quicker, less tired and definitely in less pain.

 

[wraith5]

switched up my running style to land more on the middle/front of my foot.. shin splints are gone matter of fact all leg pain is gone. for now at least. haven't really run a long distance so i don't know how fatigue might factor in yet. but i feel quicker, less tired and definitely in less pain.

The front of your foot?? I don't think I'm understanding how that works. Definitely glad it's working better for you though.

 

[mr. furley]

switched up my running style to land more on the middle/front of my foot.. shin splints are gone matter of fact all leg pain is gone. for now at least. haven't really run a long distance so i don't know how fatigue might factor in yet. but i feel quicker, less tired and definitely in less pain.

The front of your foot?? I don't think I'm understanding how that works. Definitely glad it's working better for you though.

not quite the front.. i dunno how to describe it like the experts here. no more heel striking at all. when i sprint it's almost all on the toes.. this isn't quite that severe but more like sprinting than the jackhammer heel style i was using before. still a work in progress.

 

[wraith5]

switched up my running style to land more on the middle/front of my foot.. shin splints are gone matter of fact all leg pain is gone. for now at least. haven't really run a long distance so i don't know how fatigue might factor in yet. but i feel quicker, less tired and definitely in less pain.

The front of your foot?? I don't think I'm understanding how that works. Definitely glad it's working better for you though.

not quite the front.. i dunno how to describe it like the experts here. no more heel striking at all. when i sprint it's almost all on the toes.. this isn't quite that severe but more like sprinting than the jackhammer heel style i was using before. still a work in progress.

It's a work in progress that is working for you, and that's what counts. Pain free =

 

[tri-man 47]

Furley - great news! The difference is probably tied to a better leg lift rather than lazily throwing the lower leg out stiffly and landing on the heel. That's why hill training is good - you have to lift the leg and land more on the ball of the foot.

wraith - on the 8K! I look forward to meeting you there (we can arrange it before arriving; it won't be hard, given the small crowd).

 

[pigskinliquors]

switched up my running style to land more on the middle/front of my foot.. shin splints are gone matter of fact all leg pain is gone. for now at least. haven't really run a long distance so i don't know how fatigue might factor in yet. but i feel quicker, less tired and definitely in less pain.

Is the world ready for a quicker Furley?

 

[gruecd]

Out at 6 AM today for a quick 6-mile run. Wanted to do it last night, but some other stuff got in the way. Did the middle two miles sub-7, but overall the run felt a little sluggish. With the race coming up on Sunday, that leaves me a little bit concerned, but not too much, since I hadn't run since Tuesday afternoon, and I never seem to run well the day after a rest day.

I'll do an easy 3-4 miles tomorrow morning, then off to Madison. Not liking the weather forecast (warm and humid), but like I said before, we'll just see how it goes. If I can tell by 18-20 that the 3:10 isn't going to happen, then I'm done. I'll DNF and save my body the beating. Time will tell...

 

[tri-man 47]

Out at 6 AM today for a quick 6-mile run. Wanted to do it last night, but some other stuff got in the way. Did the middle two miles sub-7, but overall the run felt a little sluggish. With the race coming up on Sunday, that leaves me a little bit concerned, but not too much, since I hadn't run since Tuesday afternoon, and I never seem to run well the day after a rest day.

I'll do an easy 3-4 miles tomorrow morning, then off to Madison. Not liking the weather forecast (warm and humid), but like I said before, we'll just see how it goes. If I can tell by 18-20 that the 3:10 isn't going to happen, then I'm done. I'll DNF and save my body the beating. Time will tell...

As I recall, mile 18 is just where you head into the arboretum for about three miles. The thing I noticed was how quiet it got - very few spectators; no traffic. That could be a good time to push on and set up a strong finish (a big crowd welcomes you back to the streets), or if your pace isn't there, a good time to throttle back, enjoy the quiet, then take it home at an easy pace. We'll pretend we didn't read that DNF thing.

 

[pigskinliquors]

Out at 6 AM today for a quick 6-mile run. Wanted to do it last night, but some other stuff got in the way. Did the middle two miles sub-7, but overall the run felt a little sluggish. With the race coming up on Sunday, that leaves me a little bit concerned, but not too much, since I hadn't run since Tuesday afternoon, and I never seem to run well the day after a rest day.

I'll do an easy 3-4 miles tomorrow morning, then off to Madison. Not liking the weather forecast (warm and humid), but like I said before, we'll just see how it goes. If I can tell by 18-20 that the 3:10 isn't going to happen, then I'm done. I'll DNF and save my body the beating. Time will tell...

FBG's don't DNF by choice. HTFU!

 

[wraith5]

FBG's don't DNF by choice. HTFU!

 

[mr. furley]

Furley - great news! The difference is probably tied to a better leg lift rather than lazily throwing the lower leg out stiffly and landing on the heel. That's why hill training is good - you have to lift the leg and land more on the ball of the foot.

hmm.. hill training.. i've thought of this but am scared by the thought of it

Is the world ready for a quicker Furley?

i'll be chasing down mall walkers in no time!

 

[gruecd]

FBG's don't DNF by choice. HTFU!

OK, I'm the one who introduced the board to the whole "HTFU" thing. No using it against me!!!!! We'll see how I feel. I've done enough marathons that I don't need to prove to myself that I can finish. If I think that I'll compromise my training for Chicago by finishing, then I'm done. But that's not going to happen, so let's not waste time talking about it....Honestly, that reminds me of something that's really cool about running. I've got a lot of running friends that I met over on the RWOL message boards. This past weekend, there were four of us running in Green Bay -- my friend Jason and I, along with a girl from the U.P. and another from Ohio. What's neat is that another "internet friend" of ours from Milwaukee actually drove up for the race just to cheer for us, and at mile 12, she was holding up a giant, neon yellow "HTFU" sign. Very cool.

Went to Barnes & Noble at lunch today just to look around a little bit, and ended up buying "Born to Run" by Christopher McDougall (for $10 more than I would've paid online). The book "explores the life and running habits of the Tarahumara Indians of Mexico’s Copper Canyon, arguably the greatest distance runners in the world." I only read a couple of pages over lunch, but it's kinda intriguing. It did contain one of my favorite running quotes by Roger Bannister, the first man to break the four-minute mile:

Every morning in Africa, a gazelle wakes up. It knows it must outrun the fastest lion or it will be killed. Every morning in Africa, a lion wakes up. It knows it must run faster than the slowest gazelle, or it will starve. It doesn't matter whether you're a lion or a gazelle -- when the sun comes up, you'd better be running.