Chef Tony's: Part 1
Chef Tony Marciante is a nice and decent guy. He makes an effort, which goes a long way in my book. Also, he means well, he's gracious and grateful for his guest's business, and genuinely wants them to enjoy themselves. That's a big deal, too.
I'm not a big fan of the idea of people having a 'brand', and who emphasize 'promoting their brand'. See Robert Griffin, III. I just don't get that. Plus, I think you kind of have to be superlative to legitimately have 'a brand'. I wouldn't say Tony's is. That said, I don't think Tony M. is necessarily engaged in shameless self-promotion....but by his own definition he does have a 'brand' and he promotes it, a little too much, again, like he's trying too hard to be recognized...
...he just reminds me of the guy that's maybe going a little too over-the-top to prove that he's relevant in comparison to some of the bigger fish in the pond.
I think he's trying to do too much, and if he'd just calm down and downsize...maybe try to focus on doing fewer things better, instead of trying to be everything to everybody, maybe then he'd get the credit and recognition that I think it appears to many sophisticated diners and his peers, that he craves, maybe a little too much?
Hmm...not sure I'm expressing myself as well as I want.
Let's take a look at his website:
http://www.cheftonysbethesda.com/... I mean, there's just so much going on ... too much.
Take a look at the menus...there's a lot going on there, too. Too much.
He wrote a cookbook. I guess anyone can write a book...and there sure are a lot of books out there, including many that were needlessly written, or written with the primary purpose being profit from book sales, and I'm not saying this one is either of those things, but then again, I'm not saying it couldn't be both...if you've read a lot of books by Chefs and Epicureans and Culinarians, who are considered by their peers to be among the best in the business, and you've met many of them, and then you met Tony, well, you might come away with...'he wrote a book? I wonder why?' Not for what purpose, but more in the sense of 'did that guy really need to write a book?'
...and here's the final weird thing: it might just be that if he were to get the scrutiny and attention that I think he consciously or subconsciously desires, I'm not all that sure it would be to his benefit, because, in the end, for all his ambition, what he's doing isn't anything all that special. Mediocre to good, but not excellent. The kind of place that, when you leave, you aren't necessarily disappointed, or sorry that's where you spent your dining dollars, but not a place you're eager to return to, or find a place for in a crowded rotation...and for the same price points, you CAN find better cooking. It's just not a place you'd go out of your way for, or plan a night around.
Two better Bethesda restaurants in the stratosphere Chef Tony's would like to aspire to:
Grapeseed:
http://www.grapeseedbistro.com/
Black's Bar and Kitchen:
http://www.blacksbarandkitchen.com/
they are both a little more sophisticated and a little pricier, but you'd walk out of either one of them feeling like your dollars were better spent, I think. I don't think Chef Tony's holds a candle to either.
I hope I'm expressing myself in an understandable way. Maybe there will be a Part 2, maybe not.