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wilked

Home-owners...What are your current projects?

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Posted (edited)
6 minutes ago, wilked said:

Yep, exactly. Might need to add an outlet below if you don’t already have one but that is easy. 
 

last part is figuring out control. I’d probably do a smart plug to plug the transformer into, controllable and programmable via Alexa / others 

 

edit to add - don’t buy something and cut it up. The UCL (get ones that can do different colors) will come with it own power supply 

Thx. I edited my post above to include a pic if helpful at all. 
 

My upcoming project is to tile over the brick and paint the built in cabinets/shelves, add handles to drawers and doors, etc....that is why I’m thinking about this lighting. 

Edited by offdee

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Posted (edited)

Electrical question....

I have one outlet that both the top and bottom works by an on/off wall switch. 

For visual, its an outlet behind the gold framed picture on the left (on back wall of built in cabinet)...

https://www.flickr.com/photos/145687765@N04/49323645412/

 

I’d like that one outlet to just always be live and not controlled by the switch.

I haven’t explored the wiring to it yet (will tonight), but guessing since both top and bottom are controlled by one switch then there likely will just be one set of wires leading to it (one black and one white)?    If there are no other wires back there is there any easy solution to making it a constantly live outlet while still allowing the switch to control other outlets around the room as they do now?

Edited by offdee

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21 hours ago, offdee said:

Electrical question....

I have one outlet that both the top and bottom works by an on/off wall switch. 

For visual, its an outlet behind the gold framed picture on the left (on back wall of built in cabinet)...

https://www.flickr.com/photos/145687765@N04/49323645412/

 

I’d like that one outlet to just always be live and not controlled by the switch.

I haven’t explored the wiring to it yet (will tonight), but guessing since both top and bottom are controlled by one switch then there likely will just be one set of wires leading to it (one black and one white)?    If there are no other wires back there is there any easy solution to making it a constantly live outlet while still allowing the switch to control other outlets around the room as they do now?

offdee, your post is a little confusing.

 

Tell me if I am right or wrong

 

You have a wall switch.  This wall switch turns your duplex outlet (something like this) on and off.  If the switch is on, the outlets (top and bottom) is on, and if the switch is off, top and bottom are off.  You'd like to make this outlet 'always on', such that the switch position has no impact on the outlet?

 

That makes sense to me...  the last part was confusing (does this same switch turn other outlets on/off?)

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Could use some feedback on the below...  

 

I am considering an addition to replace exisiting 3 season porches with finished space, including 2 bathrooms. We have always viewed these porches as unused space (too hot in summer, too cool in cold months) and want more utility out of them. Separate from this my wife really wants her own bathroom separate from me and our two sons, with various complaints from aiming ability to cleanliness standards. And lastly, we see the advantage to a first floor bathroom.

OK. Home is in New England, 100 years old, HCOL. See photos. What I am considering is tearing the porches down (they are currently on concrete footings) and rebuilding roughly to the same footprint. I may expand the first floor, but not likely the second floor (we just converted the attic space to finished space a couple years ago and added solar a year ago. I don't want to 'undo and redo' that work). Roof is recent, house is updated and in great shape.

What I am thinking: Master bath on the second floor, potentially with a closet. Half bath on first floor (likely behind dining room) and new mudroom and entrance to the house.

A couple of notes:
-Will pay for this primarily with cash, potentially $10-20K in HELOC that would get paid off within a year
-I intend to GC it. I did the same on a recent renovation and it worked fine. I am an engineer by trade and fairly handy
-I plan to so some work myself. I will need the 'box' built, and will rely on a carpenter for interior carpentry. Things like floor, tile, trim, paint, etc I will do.
-My FIL is an electrician, so free labor
-Would need a variance from the city, but with an existing structure there should be no issues. Neighbors are friends, expect no issue.
-We will live in the house for the next 15 years (estimate)
-House prices are $300-400 / sq ft in my area. Usually toward the higher side if the house is nice. I am assuming that this addition adds ~200 sq ft and 2 bathrooms, and that it will add between $50-70K in value to the house. If this estimate sounds unreasonable let me know. I am willing to 'spend' up to $20K on 'lost' value (ie money above what value the addition adds to the house), but not much more.

https://imgur.com/a/PPeqj7L
Living Room (you can see the door leading to 1st floor porch in the photo) - https://ssl.cdn-redfin.com/photo/52/mbp ... 47_2_0.jpg
First Floor Porch - https://ssl.cdn-redfin.com/photo/52/mbp ... 47_7_0.jpg
2nd Floor Porch - https://ssl.cdn-redfin.com/photo/52/mbp ... 7_16_0.jpg

My cost estimate is in the IMGUR link above - Please let me know if you think I am significantly off in any area.
Estimate: $72.5K, $360/sq ft

And....THANKS!

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21 hours ago, offdee said:

Electrical question....

I have one outlet that both the top and bottom works by an on/off wall switch. 

For visual, its an outlet behind the gold framed picture on the left (on back wall of built in cabinet)...

https://www.flickr.com/photos/145687765@N04/49323645412/

 

I’d like that one outlet to just always be live and not controlled by the switch.

I haven’t explored the wiring to it yet (will tonight), but guessing since both top and bottom are controlled by one switch then there likely will just be one set of wires leading to it (one black and one white)?    If there are no other wires back there is there any easy solution to making it a constantly live outlet while still allowing the switch to control other outlets around the room as they do now?

https://www.do-it-yourself-help.com/images/switched-receptacle-wiring-diagram.gif

(notes, grounding may look different within your electrical box)

Basically you need to find the hot wire that is associated with that outlet you want always on, remove it from the switch and connect it to the source hot.  

 

Some points:

-You need to have a current tester to do work like this, and know how to use it.  

-Only work in a box with all power shut off at the breaker panel, and only after you verify the entire box is dead via a current tester.  

-Cap all connections with wire nuts

 

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1 hour ago, wilked said:

offdee, your post is a little confusing.

 

Tell me if I am right or wrong

 

You have a wall switch.  This wall switch turns your duplex outlet (something like this) on and off.  If the switch is on, the outlets (top and bottom) is on, and if the switch is off, top and bottom are off.  You'd like to make this outlet 'always on', such that the switch position has no impact on the outlet?

 

That makes sense to me...  the last part was confusing (does this same switch turn other outlets on/off?)

Yep, you're exactly correct.

I pulled the outlet out last night and there is only one set of wires in the box unfortunately (which means it's the wiring directly from the switch).   I talked to a neighbor who is an electrician and he said will need to run new wire to the box.  There is a different outlet about 5 feet away from this one that is "always on" so guessing will have to tap into that one for the new wire.

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1 hour ago, offdee said:

Yep, you're exactly correct.

I pulled the outlet out last night and there is only one set of wires in the box unfortunately (which means it's the wiring directly from the switch).   I talked to a neighbor who is an electrician and he said will need to run new wire to the box.  There is a different outlet about 5 feet away from this one that is "always on" so guessing will have to tap into that one for the new wire.

The only trick with 5 feet away is that means there are at least 2 studs in the way, likely 3. It is not simple to fish horizontally in finished walls. 
 

what’s above/ below? Is either unfinished space (basement / attic)? 
 

Based off what you’re writing I’d hire your neighbor for the job 

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On 12/29/2019 at 8:50 PM, wilked said:

Been doing a bunch of wiring jobs. 
 

converted 4 outlets from 2 pronger to 3. 
rewired an overstuffed box in the basement 

added a new fluorescent light in basement 

just added new outlet on 1st floor. ####ed up the plaster around it of course so also mixed up some new plaster to patch it all. 
 

and cracked a great beer (Aeronaut X Ray Vision) to celebrate by myself 

For some reason I have never needed 3-prong outlets in my master bedroom until the past month, where I've run into multiple instances where I do need it.  Every outlet in the room is 2-prong.  Need to add this to my list of #### to do ASAP.

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18 minutes ago, wilked said:
1 hour ago, offdee said:

Yep, you're exactly correct.

I pulled the outlet out last night and there is only one set of wires in the box unfortunately (which means it's the wiring directly from the switch).   I talked to a neighbor who is an electrician and he said will need to run new wire to the box.  There is a different outlet about 5 feet away from this one that is "always on" so guessing will have to tap into that one for the new wire.

The only trick with 5 feet away is that means there are at least 2 studs in the way, likely 3. It is not simple to fish horizontally in finished walls. 
 

what’s above/ below? Is either unfinished space (basement / attic)? 
 

Based off what you’re writing I’d hire your neighbor for the job 

It's honestly not so bad if you get one of these.  Just cut a bunch of rectangular holes in the wall that allow enough room to drill through the studs and then replace and patch.  The cuts are so clean that a little joint compound and matching paint make the patchwork disappear.  I did this in my kitchen remodel because I needed to add outlets to pass inspection and it's extremely difficult to tell where the patches are.  I'm not convinced my wife could point them out.

Pro tip: If cutting multiple holes, cut them in different shapes/sizes so that it's easy to tell which piece of drywall goes back in each hole.

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Does anyone pay for annual maintenance on HVAC? I just signed up for one on my 20 year old furnace. $300 for the year. Includes 2 tuneups (1 heat, 1 ac) and 10% off all parts. However, my old house I had a contract with a different company for $30/month that includes the tuneups and part replacement was free. I think I should've signed up for that one.

That being said, my last house I paid the maintenance plan for 12 years. That's $4800 I could've had and I never called them for anything other than the tuneups (which they barely even do anything).

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12 minutes ago, shadyridr said:

Does anyone pay for annual maintenance on HVAC? I just signed up for one on my 20 year old furnace. $300 for the year. Includes 2 tuneups (1 heat, 1 ac) and 10% off all parts. However, my old house I had a contract with a different company for $30/month that includes the tuneups and part replacement was free. I think I should've signed up for that one.

That being said, my last house I paid the maintenance plan for 12 years. That's $4800 I could've had and I never called them for anything other than the tuneups (which they barely even do anything).

For me, I had the guy come out once, and had him show me exactly what he does for maintenance.  Then I just did that myself on the same frequency.

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9 minutes ago, wilked said:

For me, I had the guy come out once, and had him show me exactly what he does for maintenance.  Then I just did that myself on the same frequency.

Thanks, yeah I wanted to get it for this year because just bought the house in May. Once contract is up I wasn't planning on renewing.

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Posted (edited)
2 hours ago, wilked said:

The only trick with 5 feet away is that means there are at least 2 studs in the way, likely 3. It is not simple to fish horizontally in finished walls. 
 

what’s above/ below? Is either unfinished space (basement / attic)? 
 

Based off what you’re writing I’d hire your neighbor for the job 

That’s an excellent point about above and below....our basement is mostly finished but right below this spot is the unfinished storage portion of the basement where water heater and furnace is.    Could probably easily fish wire down to the basement. 
 

Once I run that wire what would I do....find nearest junction box and just wire nut onto the black and white?

Edited by offdee

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45 minutes ago, offdee said:

That’s an excellent point about above and below....our basement is mostly finished but right below this spot is the unfinished storage portion of the basement where water heater and furnace is.    Could probably easily fish wire down to the basement. 
 

Once I run that wire what would I do....find nearest junction box and just wire nut onto the black and white?

There's basically two tasks here:

 

1. Remove existing wiring from switch to outlet.  This may be very easy or not.  Probably easy though.  With everything powered down, you identify both sides of the wire and then just pull from the outlet side, hopefully the wire comes right out.  You don't want to leave abandoned wires if you can help it.

 

2. Run a new power wire to the outlet.  Find a nearby junction box in the basement with the same amp service (presumably 15 amp, look for white wiring).  Ensure the box has a little room for another wire.  With everything powered down run a new wire from that junction box over to the outlet area, then fish it up the wall.  You will need a fish wire to do this.  There are lots of little gotchas in here though, such as:

-make sure the junction box is not switched

-If the box looks overly complicated then pick a different one.  Many boxes contain multiple circuits, best left to more experienced electricians

-stapling the wire every 18-24 inches, making it neat

-running along joists, there are "do's" and "don'ts" for this, ie code.  

-attaching a clamp on the knockout of the box (prevents the wire from being cut by the box)

-proper grounding, especially with older wiring.  There are too many scenarios to describe, but generally if there is existing ground just jump onto it.  If there is no ground come back and ask.

-Leave plenty of slack while running the wire.  Amateurs usually go light and pay for it.  Be a little heavy

-Make it neat (did I already say that?).  Worst thing an inspector can see (not for this, but for future projects) is non-neat work, will start to look a lot closer at whatever he is there to inspect.

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7 minutes ago, offdee said:

Any FireplaceGuys here? 

What we doing? Cleaning it? Issue w the damper? 

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11 minutes ago, wilked said:

What we doing? Cleaning it? Issue w the damper? 

will link this pic again for visual...
https://flic.kr/p/2i9yznw

you can see right below the hanging art there are a about 13 vertical open gaps. You can also see the switch with 2 knobs that controls the 2 big fan blowers in the front corners of hearth (under grey grate covers). 

This used to be a wood burning fireplace that we converted to a gas insert (vents out up existing chimney).  We NEVER use the blower.  When you turn on the fans, the open gaps under the picture shoot out air. When the blower is off (again 100% of the time it’s off) no air comes out of those gaps under picture.   When gas fire is on (and blower is off) it’s just slightly warm out of those gaps when put hand up to it.  
 

Basically I’m planning to cover all the brick with Durock and new tile... just planning to remove the knobs and fans.  My question surrounds the vent gaps under hanging art....my plan is to fill those in with brick mortar and just Durock and tile over the top.  Any concerns there? 

Edited by offdee

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18 minutes ago, offdee said:

will link this pic again for visual...
https://flic.kr/p/2i9yznw

you can see right below the hanging art there are a about 13 vertical open gaps. You can also see the switch with 2 knobs that controls the 2 big fan blowers in the front corners of hearth (under grey grate covers). 

This used to be a wood burning fireplace that we converted to a gas insert (vents out up existing chimney).  We NEVER use the blower.  When you turn on the fans, the open gaps under the picture shoot out air. When the blower is off (again 100% of the time it’s off) no air comes out of those gaps under picture.   When gas fire is on (and blower is off) it’s just slightly warm out of those gaps when put hand up to it.  
 

Basically I’m planning to cover all the brick with Durock and new tile... just planning to remove the knobs and fans.  My question surrounds the vent gaps under hanging art....my plan is to fill those in with brick mortar and just Durock and tile over the top.  Any concerns there? 

You want to remove power to those fans.  I am guessing they have their own circuit?  I would hire an electrician to fully remove the power

 

From there, I think your plan of filling the gaps and removing the fans is good but am not 100% on this

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Looking at the photo, it seems fairly clear that the fans take in air from the room via those lower grates, and then expel the air through the slots above the fireplace, blowing past the chimney flue pipe in the process.  Just go light on the mortar when filling in, don't go crazy

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7 minutes ago, wilked said:

Looking at the photo, it seems fairly clear that the fans take in air from the room via those lower grates, and then expel the air through the slots above the fireplace, blowing past the chimney flue pipe in the process.  Just go light on the mortar when filling in, don't go crazy

Yeah, when turn the fans on (inside the grates) it’s feels just like turning a desk fan on out of these open slots below art if put hand up to it. 
 

the fan blowers are loud as hell too. 
 

yep just plan to fill slots with mortar as a outside seal coat and not go crazy with it, as you said. 

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Finally got around to putting tile down on my back patio, it turned out pretty good if I do say so myself. Not bad for a couple of first timers, it took us about 3 hours counting breaks. It's not perfect, but it beats paying someone else to do it. Gonna grout it tomorrow, and then we're gonna get the patio screened in some time before spring.

Before: https://i.imgur.com/WySmBxI.jpg

After: https://i.imgur.com/8TEBhkw.jpg

 

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On 1/10/2020 at 2:39 PM, offdee said:

will link this pic again for visual...
https://flic.kr/p/2i9yznw

you can see right below the hanging art there are a about 13 vertical open gaps. You can also see the switch with 2 knobs that controls the 2 big fan blowers in the front corners of hearth (under grey grate covers). 

This used to be a wood burning fireplace that we converted to a gas insert (vents out up existing chimney).  We NEVER use the blower.  When you turn on the fans, the open gaps under the picture shoot out air. When the blower is off (again 100% of the time it’s off) no air comes out of those gaps under picture.   When gas fire is on (and blower is off) it’s just slightly warm out of those gaps when put hand up to it.  
 

Basically I’m planning to cover all the brick with Durock and new tile... just planning to remove the knobs and fans.  My question surrounds the vent gaps under hanging art....my plan is to fill those in with brick mortar and just Durock and tile over the top.  Any concerns there? 

If you EVER anticipate selling the house, I would suggest you leave the knobs for the fan blowers.

I have a fireplace wood-burning insert and if it wasn't for the blower, it would not heat much more than the living room.  With the blower, it helps heat the house.  (We use this heat to supplement the oil heating of the house.  The thermostat is set to 62 and the insert gets us up to 70ish.)

I would just think having the blower to allow for additional heat would be another selling point.

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On 1/25/2020 at 4:23 PM, Wingnut said:

Finally got around to putting tile down on my back patio, it turned out pretty good if I do say so myself. Not bad for a couple of first timers, it took us about 3 hours counting breaks. It's not perfect, but it beats paying someone else to do it. Gonna grout it tomorrow, and then we're gonna get the patio screened in some time before spring.

Before: https://i.imgur.com/WySmBxI.jpg

After: https://i.imgur.com/8TEBhkw.jpg

 

Finished it up earlier today...man, grouting is worse than laying tile. 

https://i.imgur.com/WgHlrGn.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/Z2vraBC.jpg

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Anyone refinish hardwoods?  My father in law is mister handy man and recommended I hire someone, said when he did it it was quite difficult to keep the floor level.  I've got maple that's about 12 years old and needs a refinish.  Quote was $1800 I think, just seems not that difficult.

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27 minutes ago, lumpy19 said:

Anyone refinish hardwoods?  My father in law is mister handy man and recommended I hire someone, said when he did it it was quite difficult to keep the floor level.  I've got maple that's about 12 years old and needs a refinish.  Quote was $1800 I think, just seems not that difficult.

This is one I’d pay the pros to do

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Apart from buying a house, then setting up a frost safe rainwater collection system, then a filtration system that can be hooked up to my hobby brewery that will also have to be set up!

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10 hours ago, lumpy19 said:

Anyone refinish hardwoods?  My father in law is mister handy man and recommended I hire someone, said when he did it it was quite difficult to keep the floor level.  I've got maple that's about 12 years old and needs a refinish.  Quote was $1800 I think, just seems not that difficult.

I just did a repair job, matching unfinished wood to my finished floors, but haven’t dealt with sanding off the old finish, which I’ve heard is a #####. I couldn’t find a bid of less than $1500 for my small repair job, so $1800 to refinish an entire floor seems reasonable to me.  I had a friend who tried refinishing his floors and it looked like ####. It’s not rocket science, but if this is your first time doing it, you’ll make some mistakes which I’m sure you’d learn from if you did it 2-3 times more. If you can live with the mistakes, give it a go, otherwise let the pros do it. 

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1 hour ago, lumpy19 said:

Damnit

I’d guess you’d be looking at $500 in equipment rental and supplies to DIY, especially if you are putting multiple coats of poly since you need to resand in between coats

then you’ve got to make sure you tape everything off with plastic so you don’t get dust all over the rest of the house and walls

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On 1/26/2020 at 9:40 AM, Spike said:

If you EVER anticipate selling the house, I would suggest you leave the knobs for the fan blowers.

I have a fireplace wood-burning insert and if it wasn't for the blower, it would not heat much more than the living room.  With the blower, it helps heat the house.  (We use this heat to supplement the oil heating of the house.  The thermostat is set to 62 and the insert gets us up to 70ish.)

I would just think having the blower to allow for additional heat would be another selling point.

Eh, appreciate the thought, but running that blower is equivalent to the sound of a barn fan.   I don't care how much heat it helps blow out, it's not something any modern family would put up with on a regular basis. A fireplace to me is more about ambiance and to be enjoyed and not functional heat.      Being able to make the façade modern and updated will bring back much more value in resale than an old outdated, loud ### blower.

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I'm trying to figure out a good way to put flood lights in my front yard that shine up on the trees. Solar aint cutting it. Trying to avoid tearing up the front walk to run wiring.

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On 1/26/2020 at 8:40 PM, lumpy19 said:

Anyone refinish hardwoods?  My father in law is mister handy man and recommended I hire someone, said when he did it it was quite difficult to keep the floor level.  I've got maple that's about 12 years old and needs a refinish.  Quote was $1800 I think, just seems not that difficult.

If it is a rental do it yourself.  If it is yours, you're better off hiring it out.

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Ready to redo all three bathrooms.  Tell me what type of flooring to put in there.  

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15 hours ago, shuke said:

Ready to redo all three bathrooms.  Tell me what type of flooring to put in there.  

Heated, at least in any bathroom with a shower. 

Edited by Spike

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15 hours ago, shuke said:

Ready to redo all three bathrooms.  Tell me what type of flooring to put in there.  

I always cringe when I see carpet in old bathrooms on those renovation shows. Gross. Don't do that.  

We just did a bathroom with porcelain tile. Can't go wrong with tile or wood. 

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2 hours ago, FBG26 said:

I always cringe when I see carpet in old bathrooms on those renovation shows. Gross. Don't do that.  

We just did a bathroom with porcelain tile. Can't go wrong with tile or wood. 

Wood?   That's a pass for me in bathroom.

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18 hours ago, shuke said:

Ready to redo all three bathrooms.  Tell me what type of flooring to put in there.  

Tile or luxury vinyl is great.

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30 minutes ago, bucksoh said:
3 hours ago, FBG26 said:

I always cringe when I see carpet in old bathrooms on those renovation shows. Gross. Don't do that.  

We just did a bathroom with porcelain tile. Can't go wrong with tile or wood. 

Wood?   That's a pass for me in bathroom.

Wood in a powder room would be fine, especially if it's off a room with a wood floor.

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On 1/27/2020 at 11:37 PM, shuke said:

Ready to redo all three bathrooms.  Tell me what type of flooring to put in there.  

Shuke, I’m about to build a new bathroom. Some things for you to consider:

 

-floor, likely tile is what I’d recommend. 
-strongly consider hearing that floor w electric radiant (at least the bath that your wife will use the most). Use Schluter Ditra. Easy to install

-I’d also consider a towel warmer if the bath is big. Cheap, easy to install if you’ve got things opened up

-we did wainscoting in my recent bath remodel. Turned out great 

-consider putting a grab handle in the showers. My guess is before long that will be code. Plan ahead and get some good wood behind where it will go to screw into. 
-Toto drake is the only toilet I will buy

-Panasonic fans are the only fans I buy

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Bought a coupon and hit up a sale at Home Depot over the holiday and bought a mobile table saw and miter saw.  We're redoing our bedroom and after looking at the price of custom closets I'm going to attempt to do it on my own, along with built in shelving in the bedroom including a TV and fake fireplace.  Was looking around for plans ideas and this lady made me think I could do it myself.

I was going to set up in the garage but then thought basement because of the weather, the problem is its unfinished and the only outlets I have down there are for the sump pump,  heat, etc.

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42 minutes ago, wilked said:

Do you have a junction box like this?

 

https://encrypted-tbn0.gstatic.com/images?q=tbn%3AANd9GcS7Tm8Fb5ATfmVLDxatmQcqoRAHvr9e_HuuDSIUGAi__jDBJgcY
 

make a new outlet, wiring it from there to the new location 

I'll take a look, just worried about pulling too much of a load on any one circuit... especially the ones controlling my heat.

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4 hours ago, Lehigh98 said:

I'll take a look, just worried about pulling too much of a load on any one circuit... especially the ones controlling my heat.

You might need a new circuit depending.  In general if you're going to do these types of projects I'd think ahead, design a decent little workshop area (look into a dust removal system) and then bring over a circuit for the new area

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Going to be replacing the stairs heading to the second floor very soon.  Half the treads are cracked and they squeak really bad.  Need to wait for wife to let me know if the wants carpet or not.  If so, replacing will be easy. If not, will have to buy some 3/4" wood, cut to size for each stair, then place a 1" stair cap on each, which means staining and poly on each.  Might just replace the risers too while I'm at it. Hope she picks carpet.

Then, I need to replace the subfloor in the upstairs hallway as the floors squeak bad there too.  Old house. Same deal, waiting to see if the wants carpet or something else.  Again, carpet would make my life easier.

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1 hour ago, Copeman said:

Going to be replacing the stairs heading to the second floor very soon.  Half the treads are cracked and they squeak really bad.  Need to wait for wife to let me know if the wants carpet or not.  If so, replacing will be easy. If not, will have to buy some 3/4" wood, cut to size for each stair, then place a 1" stair cap on each, which means staining and poly on each.  Might just replace the risers too while I'm at it. Hope she picks carpet.

Then, I need to replace the subfloor in the upstairs hallway as the floors squeak bad there too.  Old house. Same deal, waiting to see if the wants carpet or something else.  Again, carpet would make my life easier.

is the upstairs hallway carpeted now?    If so someone mentioned this tool works great.  My moms upstairs carpeted loft area squeaks like crazy and I bought this to try and fix for her...just haven't gotten a chance to get out there yet.

https://www.amazon.com/Squeeeeek-Eliminates-Squeak-Through-Carpet/dp/B0139N362I/ref=sr_1_3?crid=3B4KFPBLVIXOF&keywords=squeeeeek%2Bno%2Bmore&qid=1580846825&sprefix=squeee%2Caps%2C155&sr=8-3&th=1&psc=1

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Just now, offdee said:

is the upstairs hallway carpeted now?    If so someone mentioned this tool works great.  My moms upstairs carpeted loft area squeaks like crazy and I bought this to try and fix for her...just haven't gotten a chance to get out there yet.

https://www.amazon.com/Squeeeeek-Eliminates-Squeak-Through-Carpet/dp/B0139N362I/ref=sr_1_3?crid=3B4KFPBLVIXOF&keywords=squeeeeek%2Bno%2Bmore&qid=1580846825&sprefix=squeee%2Caps%2C155&sr=8-3&th=1&psc=1

It isn't.  And yes, I've looked into things similar, but they just won't work for what I am dealing with.  i would need thousands of screws.  Not dealing with that.

Thanks though. :thumbup:

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Not sure if this is right thread or if Mortgage thread is, so feel free to tell me I picked wrong:

 

Any advice as someone beginning the search for their first home purchase? Things you wished you'd known?

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52 minutes ago, Instinctive said:

Not sure if this is right thread or if Mortgage thread is, so feel free to tell me I picked wrong:

 

Any advice as someone beginning the search for their first home purchase? Things you wished you'd known?

Here's my advice:

 

On redfin (and others) you can look at recent sales.

 

With some sort of narrowed scope (say 2-4 towns, and a max spend) have you and your wife independently do a 12 month search of sales.  From there, make a list of top 5 homes that you like with specific notes on why you like each home.  Then basically present each list to each other and gather feedback.  See if there is any overlap in the 5 homes.  From there you should gain good perspective on what is important to each of you, and be more informed on making a shared search

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So repainting my finished basement area (mancave, workout area, small "kitchen" area).  Been in house for 6 years now and still has poor builders grade "off white" on everything - ceiling and walls.  Have colors picked out, and I'm very particular about paint lines and such so it will take a few days - hopefully done this weekend.

Anyway, over the years I've accumulated a decent collection of full sized football helmets.  Currently ~20 and growing by 2-3 a year.  I currently have cheap shelves (laminated wood ~3/4" thick, with slightly decorative brackets) from home depot installed ~12" off the ceiling wrapping around the mancave area to have them, and the wife doesn't like them - and I'm not crazy about them either.  Want something nicer as a helmet (and other sports memorabilia) display.  Must be wall mounted so as not to take up any floor space.  And not crazy expensive, as floating shelves can be.  Any ideas?

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