I've been putting off landscape lighting for a while. I've never seen solar powered lights that have the warm light I am after. They all look like runway lights and if the railing caps I have on my deck (here when we bought the house) are any indication, they don't last very long. I am hardwiring mine. Just have to find the time to do it.Anyone have any experience with solar powered land scape lighting? Are they any good, or should I hard wire?
Going to put some lighting in and hardwire. The solar stuff around other people's houses seems to glow more than produce light and it seems like after a while some of them stop illuminating.I've been putting off landscape lighting for a while. I've never seen solar powered lights that have the warm light I am after. They all look like runway lights and if the railing caps I have on my deck (here when we bought the house) are any indication, they don't last very long. I am hardwiring mine. Just have to find the time to do it.Anyone have any experience with solar powered land scape lighting? Are they any good, or should I hard wire?
It's a mix. We have a lot that is 1 1/2 times deeper than a standard lot in our area. The back third was not kept up by the previous owners, so it is basically forrest/brush. The spring after we moved in (a few years ago) we went in and cut down the smaller trees, so there are a few big old trees, and some medium sized trees left around the perimeter of the yard. It's all brush, saplings, crazy weeds throughout and I just want to napalm it all except for the trees.How old/large are the trees? If you avoid spraying the trees, you should be fine. These materials aren't designed to linger like herbicides. You usually have to make sure you're focused on the weed and soak it.How would they affect any trees in the area? I have a large area of ground to clear and am looking for the most economical way to get it done.If you aren't concerned about the grass around the weed, IE looking for a ground clear sort of solution you can use Vinegar, Salt, Soap and Water. Plenty or recipes out there. I've used them, but the do kill everything...not just the weeds.
Napalm might do the trick.It's a mix. We have a lot that is 1 1/2 times deeper than a standard lot in our area. The back third was not kept up by the previous owners, so it is basically forrest/brush. The spring after we moved in (a few years ago) we went in and cut down the smaller trees, so there are a few big old trees, and some medium sized trees left around the perimeter of the yard. It's all brush, saplings, crazy weeds throughout and I just want to napalm it all except for the trees.How old/large are the trees? If you avoid spraying the trees, you should be fine. These materials aren't designed to linger like herbicides. You usually have to make sure you're focused on the weed and soak it.How would they affect any trees in the area? I have a large area of ground to clear and am looking for the most economical way to get it done.If you aren't concerned about the grass around the weed, IE looking for a ground clear sort of solution you can use Vinegar, Salt, Soap and Water. Plenty or recipes out there. I've used them, but the do kill everything...not just the weeds.
You can always broadcast spread most of the area, stay away from the trees then go back and pull the stuff around the trees by hand.It's a mix. We have a lot that is 1 1/2 times deeper than a standard lot in our area. The back third was not kept up by the previous owners, so it is basically forrest/brush. The spring after we moved in (a few years ago) we went in and cut down the smaller trees, so there are a few big old trees, and some medium sized trees left around the perimeter of the yard. It's all brush, saplings, crazy weeds throughout and I just want to napalm it all except for the trees.How old/large are the trees? If you avoid spraying the trees, you should be fine. These materials aren't designed to linger like herbicides. You usually have to make sure you're focused on the weed and soak it.How would they affect any trees in the area? I have a large area of ground to clear and am looking for the most economical way to get it done.If you aren't concerned about the grass around the weed, IE looking for a ground clear sort of solution you can use Vinegar, Salt, Soap and Water. Plenty or recipes out there. I've used them, but the do kill everything...not just the weeds.
I'm slowly expanding my landscape lighting. Had some solar units when we moved in. Super cheap and cheezy. If you want it to look nice, go wired.Anyone have any experience with solar powered land scape lighting? Are they any good, or should I hard wire?
This was the product I was going to try out. Anything special to consider? I want to light the house as my first stage. Then I was going to move to up lighting several of the trees and possibly adding path lighting for the sidewalks.I'm slowly expanding my landscape lighting. Had some solar units when we moved in. Super cheap and cheezy. If you want it to look nice, go wired.Anyone have any experience with solar powered land scape lighting? Are they any good, or should I hard wire?
I've found THIS SITE to be very helpful and also to sell a great quality product for the price. I can't recommend their transformers enough. Super high quality. Built like a tank. Very flexible as far as how you turn them on/off (Timer, photocell, or other automation product...I use Z-wave). Their fixtures are awesome too. I'd recommend going LED for many reasons.
I've currently got 8 of the China Hat lights, and 2 up-lights. I'm going to add a 12V post light down my driveway and some lights to highlight certain trees at some point. I just bought a 2nd transformer to power my deck post lights once I get that all installed. I'll have plenty of extra voltage if I want to add some lights down by the fire pit or elsewhere.
If you go LED, the 300W transformer is plenty. Again, I'd higly recommend LED...not only do they allow you to use a lower-power transformer, and last a long time, but you can also then just daisy-chain your fixtures, which makes the install very easy. Their wire and such is overpriced. I just bought the fixtures and transformer from them and got the wire in bulk at Lowes/HD.This was the product I was going to try out. Anything special to consider? I want to light the house as my first stage. Then I was going to move to up lighting several of the trees and possibly adding path lighting for the sidewalks.I'm slowly expanding my landscape lighting. Had some solar units when we moved in. Super cheap and cheezy. If you want it to look nice, go wired.Anyone have any experience with solar powered land scape lighting? Are they any good, or should I hard wire?
I've found THIS SITE to be very helpful and also to sell a great quality product for the price. I can't recommend their transformers enough. Super high quality. Built like a tank. Very flexible as far as how you turn them on/off (Timer, photocell, or other automation product...I use Z-wave). Their fixtures are awesome too. I'd recommend going LED for many reasons.
I've currently got 8 of the China Hat lights, and 2 up-lights. I'm going to add a 12V post light down my driveway and some lights to highlight certain trees at some point. I just bought a 2nd transformer to power my deck post lights once I get that all installed. I'll have plenty of extra voltage if I want to add some lights down by the fire pit or elsewhere.
On the front side of my house, I'll have between 6-8 "up lights" on the house plus another 4-5 on the trees. Then in the back yard it will be a mix of up lights and pathway lights. I might even light the posts on the deck (not really sure about the back yard at this point). I'll have more in the back than front is my guess. A 300W transformer is plenty for all that?If you go LED, the 300W transformer is plenty. Again, I'd higly recommend LED...not only do they allow you to use a lower-power transformer, and last a long time, but you can also then just daisy-chain your fixtures, which makes the install very easy. Their wire and such is overpriced. I just bought the fixtures and transformer from them and got the wire in bulk at Lowes/HD.This was the product I was going to try out. Anything special to consider? I want to light the house as my first stage. Then I was going to move to up lighting several of the trees and possibly adding path lighting for the sidewalks.I'm slowly expanding my landscape lighting. Had some solar units when we moved in. Super cheap and cheezy. If you want it to look nice, go wired.Anyone have any experience with solar powered land scape lighting? Are they any good, or should I hard wire?
I've found THIS SITE to be very helpful and also to sell a great quality product for the price. I can't recommend their transformers enough. Super high quality. Built like a tank. Very flexible as far as how you turn them on/off (Timer, photocell, or other automation product...I use Z-wave). Their fixtures are awesome too. I'd recommend going LED for many reasons.
I've currently got 8 of the China Hat lights, and 2 up-lights. I'm going to add a 12V post light down my driveway and some lights to highlight certain trees at some point. I just bought a 2nd transformer to power my deck post lights once I get that all installed. I'll have plenty of extra voltage if I want to add some lights down by the fire pit or elsewhere.
They have a $100 minimum order. Keep that in mind. You may want to throw an extra stake or bulb in your order just to have it. I've been very happy with their products thus far and want to keep adding to my setup.
My Aussie Cattle dog would be glad to help. She's the one in my picture. She's gotten at least 10 out of my yard in the past year. She got a big rat, too.Let's talk rodents.....I have some voles in my yard (I think)....rat poison in the holes?
Can I rent her for the summer? She'll be in good hands,I promise.My Aussie Cattle dog would be glad to help. She's the one in my picture. She's gotten at least 10 out of my yard in the past year. She got a big rat, too.Let's talk rodents.....I have some voles in my yard (I think)....rat poison in the holes?
Sorry! Missed this. If you do all of those with LED's, yes...300W will be plenty. If you start to do incandescents, each one of those up lights can be like 60W+. LED's really made landscape lighting a lot more affordable b/c you don't need the huge transformers.On the front side of my house, I'll have between 6-8 "up lights" on the house plus another 4-5 on the trees. Then in the back yard it will be a mix of up lights and pathway lights. I might even light the posts on the deck (not really sure about the back yard at this point). I'll have more in the back than front is my guess. A 300W transformer is plenty for all that?If you go LED, the 300W transformer is plenty. Again, I'd higly recommend LED...not only do they allow you to use a lower-power transformer, and last a long time, but you can also then just daisy-chain your fixtures, which makes the install very easy. Their wire and such is overpriced. I just bought the fixtures and transformer from them and got the wire in bulk at Lowes/HD.This was the product I was going to try out. Anything special to consider? I want to light the house as my first stage. Then I was going to move to up lighting several of the trees and possibly adding path lighting for the sidewalks.I'm slowly expanding my landscape lighting. Had some solar units when we moved in. Super cheap and cheezy. If you want it to look nice, go wired.Anyone have any experience with solar powered land scape lighting? Are they any good, or should I hard wire?
I've found THIS SITE to be very helpful and also to sell a great quality product for the price. I can't recommend their transformers enough. Super high quality. Built like a tank. Very flexible as far as how you turn them on/off (Timer, photocell, or other automation product...I use Z-wave). Their fixtures are awesome too. I'd recommend going LED for many reasons.
I've currently got 8 of the China Hat lights, and 2 up-lights. I'm going to add a 12V post light down my driveway and some lights to highlight certain trees at some point. I just bought a 2nd transformer to power my deck post lights once I get that all installed. I'll have plenty of extra voltage if I want to add some lights down by the fire pit or elsewhere.
They have a $100 minimum order. Keep that in mind. You may want to throw an extra stake or bulb in your order just to have it. I've been very happy with their products thus far and want to keep adding to my setup.
Thanks! I was wondering if those boxes might be "zoned" so that I could turn on part or all of it if I wanted. Seems like the answer is "no". So if I wanted to control the front/back separately, I'd have to have two transformers also.Sorry! Missed this. If you do all of those with LED's, yes...300W will be plenty. If you start to do incandescents, each one of those up lights can be like 60W+. LED's really made landscape lighting a lot more affordable b/c you don't need the huge transformers.On the front side of my house, I'll have between 6-8 "up lights" on the house plus another 4-5 on the trees. Then in the back yard it will be a mix of up lights and pathway lights. I might even light the posts on the deck (not really sure about the back yard at this point). I'll have more in the back than front is my guess. A 300W transformer is plenty for all that?If you go LED, the 300W transformer is plenty. Again, I'd higly recommend LED...not only do they allow you to use a lower-power transformer, and last a long time, but you can also then just daisy-chain your fixtures, which makes the install very easy. Their wire and such is overpriced. I just bought the fixtures and transformer from them and got the wire in bulk at Lowes/HD.This was the product I was going to try out. Anything special to consider? I want to light the house as my first stage. Then I was going to move to up lighting several of the trees and possibly adding path lighting for the sidewalks.I'm slowly expanding my landscape lighting. Had some solar units when we moved in. Super cheap and cheezy. If you want it to look nice, go wired.Anyone have any experience with solar powered land scape lighting? Are they any good, or should I hard wire?
I've found THIS SITE to be very helpful and also to sell a great quality product for the price. I can't recommend their transformers enough. Super high quality. Built like a tank. Very flexible as far as how you turn them on/off (Timer, photocell, or other automation product...I use Z-wave). Their fixtures are awesome too. I'd recommend going LED for many reasons.
I've currently got 8 of the China Hat lights, and 2 up-lights. I'm going to add a 12V post light down my driveway and some lights to highlight certain trees at some point. I just bought a 2nd transformer to power my deck post lights once I get that all installed. I'll have plenty of extra voltage if I want to add some lights down by the fire pit or elsewhere.
They have a $100 minimum order. Keep that in mind. You may want to throw an extra stake or bulb in your order just to have it. I've been very happy with their products thus far and want to keep adding to my setup.
The only reason I got a 2nd 300W was I wanted to be able to independantly turn on and off the front walk and the back deck. I could've easily powered my whole set-up with the original 300W.
Zones would be a huge feature upgrade, but alas, no...I'd imagine you could do this somehow with relays or something, but that's a whole different ballgame.Thanks! I was wondering if those boxes might be "zoned" so that I could turn on part or all of it if I wanted. Seems like the answer is "no". So if I wanted to control the front/back separately, I'd have to have two transformers also.Sorry! Missed this. If you do all of those with LED's, yes...300W will be plenty. If you start to do incandescents, each one of those up lights can be like 60W+. LED's really made landscape lighting a lot more affordable b/c you don't need the huge transformers.On the front side of my house, I'll have between 6-8 "up lights" on the house plus another 4-5 on the trees. Then in the back yard it will be a mix of up lights and pathway lights. I might even light the posts on the deck (not really sure about the back yard at this point). I'll have more in the back than front is my guess. A 300W transformer is plenty for all that?If you go LED, the 300W transformer is plenty. Again, I'd higly recommend LED...not only do they allow you to use a lower-power transformer, and last a long time, but you can also then just daisy-chain your fixtures, which makes the install very easy. Their wire and such is overpriced. I just bought the fixtures and transformer from them and got the wire in bulk at Lowes/HD.This was the product I was going to try out. Anything special to consider? I want to light the house as my first stage. Then I was going to move to up lighting several of the trees and possibly adding path lighting for the sidewalks.I'm slowly expanding my landscape lighting. Had some solar units when we moved in. Super cheap and cheezy. If you want it to look nice, go wired.Anyone have any experience with solar powered land scape lighting? Are they any good, or should I hard wire?
I've found THIS SITE to be very helpful and also to sell a great quality product for the price. I can't recommend their transformers enough. Super high quality. Built like a tank. Very flexible as far as how you turn them on/off (Timer, photocell, or other automation product...I use Z-wave). Their fixtures are awesome too. I'd recommend going LED for many reasons.
I've currently got 8 of the China Hat lights, and 2 up-lights. I'm going to add a 12V post light down my driveway and some lights to highlight certain trees at some point. I just bought a 2nd transformer to power my deck post lights once I get that all installed. I'll have plenty of extra voltage if I want to add some lights down by the fire pit or elsewhere.
They have a $100 minimum order. Keep that in mind. You may want to throw an extra stake or bulb in your order just to have it. I've been very happy with their products thus far and want to keep adding to my setup.
The only reason I got a 2nd 300W was I wanted to be able to independantly turn on and off the front walk and the back deck. I could've easily powered my whole set-up with the original 300W.
yeah, I'm not going down that path...thanks for the info GBZones would be a huge feature upgrade, but alas, no...I'd imagine you could do this somehow with relays or something, but that's a whole different ballgame.Thanks! I was wondering if those boxes might be "zoned" so that I could turn on part or all of it if I wanted. Seems like the answer is "no". So if I wanted to control the front/back separately, I'd have to have two transformers also.Sorry! Missed this. If you do all of those with LED's, yes...300W will be plenty. If you start to do incandescents, each one of those up lights can be like 60W+. LED's really made landscape lighting a lot more affordable b/c you don't need the huge transformers.On the front side of my house, I'll have between 6-8 "up lights" on the house plus another 4-5 on the trees. Then in the back yard it will be a mix of up lights and pathway lights. I might even light the posts on the deck (not really sure about the back yard at this point). I'll have more in the back than front is my guess. A 300W transformer is plenty for all that?If you go LED, the 300W transformer is plenty. Again, I'd higly recommend LED...not only do they allow you to use a lower-power transformer, and last a long time, but you can also then just daisy-chain your fixtures, which makes the install very easy. Their wire and such is overpriced. I just bought the fixtures and transformer from them and got the wire in bulk at Lowes/HD.This was the product I was going to try out. Anything special to consider? I want to light the house as my first stage. Then I was going to move to up lighting several of the trees and possibly adding path lighting for the sidewalks.I'm slowly expanding my landscape lighting. Had some solar units when we moved in. Super cheap and cheezy. If you want it to look nice, go wired.Anyone have any experience with solar powered land scape lighting? Are they any good, or should I hard wire?
I've found THIS SITE to be very helpful and also to sell a great quality product for the price. I can't recommend their transformers enough. Super high quality. Built like a tank. Very flexible as far as how you turn them on/off (Timer, photocell, or other automation product...I use Z-wave). Their fixtures are awesome too. I'd recommend going LED for many reasons.
I've currently got 8 of the China Hat lights, and 2 up-lights. I'm going to add a 12V post light down my driveway and some lights to highlight certain trees at some point. I just bought a 2nd transformer to power my deck post lights once I get that all installed. I'll have plenty of extra voltage if I want to add some lights down by the fire pit or elsewhere.
They have a $100 minimum order. Keep that in mind. You may want to throw an extra stake or bulb in your order just to have it. I've been very happy with their products thus far and want to keep adding to my setup.
The only reason I got a 2nd 300W was I wanted to be able to independantly turn on and off the front walk and the back deck. I could've easily powered my whole set-up with the original 300W.
Thanks for that link. This project is on my summer list. Quick question... for "up lights" on the house and trees, do you guys use Flood Lights or Spot Lights?On the front side of my house, I'll have between 6-8 "up lights" on the house plus another 4-5 on the trees. Then in the back yard it will be a mix of up lights and pathway lights. I might even light the posts on the deck (not really sure about the back yard at this point). I'll have more in the back than front is my guess. A 300W transformer is plenty for all that?If you go LED, the 300W transformer is plenty. Again, I'd higly recommend LED...not only do they allow you to use a lower-power transformer, and last a long time, but you can also then just daisy-chain your fixtures, which makes the install very easy. Their wire and such is overpriced. I just bought the fixtures and transformer from them and got the wire in bulk at Lowes/HD.This was the product I was going to try out. Anything special to consider? I want to light the house as my first stage. Then I was going to move to up lighting several of the trees and possibly adding path lighting for the sidewalks.I'm slowly expanding my landscape lighting. Had some solar units when we moved in. Super cheap and cheezy. If you want it to look nice, go wired.Anyone have any experience with solar powered land scape lighting? Are they any good, or should I hard wire?
I've found THIS SITE to be very helpful and also to sell a great quality product for the price. I can't recommend their transformers enough. Super high quality. Built like a tank. Very flexible as far as how you turn them on/off (Timer, photocell, or other automation product...I use Z-wave). Their fixtures are awesome too. I'd recommend going LED for many reasons.
I've currently got 8 of the China Hat lights, and 2 up-lights. I'm going to add a 12V post light down my driveway and some lights to highlight certain trees at some point. I just bought a 2nd transformer to power my deck post lights once I get that all installed. I'll have plenty of extra voltage if I want to add some lights down by the fire pit or elsewhere.
They have a $100 minimum order. Keep that in mind. You may want to throw an extra stake or bulb in your order just to have it. I've been very happy with their products thus far and want to keep adding to my setup.
I'd definitely rake after step 3. Seed soil contact is important. You could also roll using a lawn roller for the same reason.My lawn has become thin and patchy. please critique my expected procedure to remedy this.
This is an area of about 1 acre. It is not thin or patchy enough to bring in loam (which worries me if the below will work)
In early fall
1) Rent thatcher and perform an aggressive thatch of lawn.
2) Rent an aerator and aerate entire lawn (ground appears to be very compressed right now)
3) Spread seed across entire lawn
4) Spread starter fertilizer across entire lawn
5) Keep moist for 2 weeks until full germination
I have never done overseeding like this. Will this work?
For me, this was the biggest help. The ground was extremely compressed, so I've been aerating every spring and fall (you can't do it too much). This has done wonders.My lawn has become thin and patchy. please critique my expected procedure to remedy this.
2) Rent an aerator and aerate entire lawn (ground appears to be very compressed right now)
I've always read that if you aerate you do not need to de-thatch at the same time.My lawn has become thin and patchy. please critique my expected procedure to remedy this.
This is an area of about 1 acre. It is not thin or patchy enough to bring in loam (which worries me if the below will work)
In early fall
1) Rent thatcher and perform an aggressive thatch of lawn.
2) Rent an aerator and aerate entire lawn (ground appears to be very compressed right now)
3) Spread seed across entire lawn
4) Spread starter fertilizer across entire lawn
5) Keep moist for 2 weeks until full germination
I have never done overseeding like this. Will this work?
How big is your yard?For the aerator, it seems it would cost me $60 to rent at a 4 hour min (likely will take me less than half that time without rushing). I have asked for a couple of qoutes on having someone else to do it for me. Do landscapers have decent rates on this kind of thing? I mean, I am thinking that it should cost me right around that much to have someone do it for me. An hours worth of work for a landscaping company can't be that costly... no?
What about seeing if other neighbors want to use it and split the cost? That's what we do in our neighborhood.For the aerator, it seems it would cost me $60 to rent at a 4 hour min (likely will take me less than half that time without rushing). I have asked for a couple of qoutes on having someone else to do it for me. Do landscapers have decent rates on this kind of thing? I mean, I am thinking that it should cost me right around that much to have someone do it for me. An hours worth of work for a landscaping company can't be that costly... no?
Same issue for me. There's one side of my house that gets total sun all day long. No matter how many times I water it or seed it, it will be nice and brown.It's only May 15 but I have some areas in my yard that already look dry enough to be August 15. I did spray Bayer weed killer a few weeks ago, maybe it is in those spots. But I diluted it like I normally do. Not sure what the hell is going on.
ok thanks. If I use the lawn slicer for the seeding, would you recommend Thatching or Aerating before that?I've always read that if you aerate you do not need to de-thatch at the same time.My lawn has become thin and patchy. please critique my expected procedure to remedy this.
This is an area of about 1 acre. It is not thin or patchy enough to bring in loam (which worries me if the below will work)
In early fall
1) Rent thatcher and perform an aggressive thatch of lawn.
2) Rent an aerator and aerate entire lawn (ground appears to be very compressed right now)
3) Spread seed across entire lawn
4) Spread starter fertilizer across entire lawn
5) Keep moist for 2 weeks until full germination
I have never done overseeding like this. Will this work?
I do not think just throwing seed down on the ground. It needs good soil contact. You may want to rent a slit-seeder.
In the northeast, we gotten very little grain over the past month. I've had to get the sprinklers going earlier than normal to keep the lawn green.It's only May 15 but I have some areas in my yard that already look dry enough to be August 15. I did spray Bayer weed killer a few weeks ago, maybe it is in those spots. But I diluted it like I normally do. Not sure what the hell is going on.
Lot is 9,704 sqft with a 1,963 sqft house. Minus out small dog run, other non yard area, driveway and garage.... Let's call it about 5,500 sqftHow big is your yard?For the aerator, it seems it would cost me $60 to rent at a 4 hour min (likely will take me less than half that time without rushing). I have asked for a couple of qoutes on having someone else to do it for me. Do landscapers have decent rates on this kind of thing? I mean, I am thinking that it should cost me right around that much to have someone do it for me. An hours worth of work for a landscaping company can't be that costly... no?
That is a good idea to explore.What about seeing if other neighbors want to use it and split the cost? That's what we do in our neighborhood.For the aerator, it seems it would cost me $60 to rent at a 4 hour min (likely will take me less than half that time without rushing). I have asked for a couple of qoutes on having someone else to do it for me. Do landscapers have decent rates on this kind of thing? I mean, I am thinking that it should cost me right around that much to have someone do it for me. An hours worth of work for a landscaping company can't be that costly... no?
the best way to handle crabgrass is to attack it before it germinates.Anyone have any good suggestions for Crabgrass control. My front yard has about 10 big ones, and they are multiplying. Last year I tried one of the hand bottle spray's that was supposed to take care of Crabgrass, but I swear it did nothing. One of my friends has suggested image, which I have to mix up myself in a spray tank, maybe that will be the answer.
Any other suggestions here? I need to get rid of that stuff, I have an OK Bermuda grass front lawn besides that crabgrass.
Came here now just for this. But I don't want to be spraying stuff at this stage of the game that will just leave a big brown spot for the summer.Anyone have any good suggestions for Crabgrass control. My front yard has about 10 big ones, and they are multiplying. Last year I tried one of the hand bottle spray's that was supposed to take care of Crabgrass, but I swear it did nothing. One of my friends has suggested image, which I have to mix up myself in a spray tank, maybe that will be the answer.
Any other suggestions here? I need to get rid of that stuff, I have an OK Bermuda grass front lawn besides that crabgrass.
Post-emergent, this. Pre-emergent, this. Don't ever buy the scotts crabgrass pre-emergent.Anyone have any good suggestions for Crabgrass control. My front yard has about 10 big ones, and they are multiplying. Last year I tried one of the hand bottle spray's that was supposed to take care of Crabgrass, but I swear it did nothing. One of my friends has suggested image, which I have to mix up myself in a spray tank, maybe that will be the answer.
Any other suggestions here? I need to get rid of that stuff, I have an OK Bermuda grass front lawn besides that crabgrass.
This is my general question too. BUT, I think the spot lights will do just fine. I've wondered into neighboring yards to check them out and most of them have the spot light variety. There are a few that have the flood lights for really tall parts of their houses though. I think if you're just trying to light up 10 - 15 feet, you'd be plenty happy with spot lights.Thanks for that link. This project is on my summer list. Quick question... for "up lights" on the house and trees, do you guys use Flood Lights or Spot Lights?On the front side of my house, I'll have between 6-8 "up lights" on the house plus another 4-5 on the trees. Then in the back yard it will be a mix of up lights and pathway lights. I might even light the posts on the deck (not really sure about the back yard at this point). I'll have more in the back than front is my guess. A 300W transformer is plenty for all that?If you go LED, the 300W transformer is plenty. Again, I'd higly recommend LED...not only do they allow you to use a lower-power transformer, and last a long time, but you can also then just daisy-chain your fixtures, which makes the install very easy. Their wire and such is overpriced. I just bought the fixtures and transformer from them and got the wire in bulk at Lowes/HD.This was the product I was going to try out. Anything special to consider? I want to light the house as my first stage. Then I was going to move to up lighting several of the trees and possibly adding path lighting for the sidewalks.I'm slowly expanding my landscape lighting. Had some solar units when we moved in. Super cheap and cheezy. If you want it to look nice, go wired.Anyone have any experience with solar powered land scape lighting? Are they any good, or should I hard wire?
I've found THIS SITE to be very helpful and also to sell a great quality product for the price. I can't recommend their transformers enough. Super high quality. Built like a tank. Very flexible as far as how you turn them on/off (Timer, photocell, or other automation product...I use Z-wave). Their fixtures are awesome too. I'd recommend going LED for many reasons.
I've currently got 8 of the China Hat lights, and 2 up-lights. I'm going to add a 12V post light down my driveway and some lights to highlight certain trees at some point. I just bought a 2nd transformer to power my deck post lights once I get that all installed. I'll have plenty of extra voltage if I want to add some lights down by the fire pit or elsewhere.
They have a $100 minimum order. Keep that in mind. You may want to throw an extra stake or bulb in your order just to have it. I've been very happy with their products thus far and want to keep adding to my setup.
I wouldn't thatch AND aerate and once the seed is down you might want to add a step of rolling the yard to make sure the seed is in good contact with the ground.My lawn has become thin and patchy. please critique my expected procedure to remedy this.
This is an area of about 1 acre. It is not thin or patchy enough to bring in loam (which worries me if the below will work)
In early fall
1) Rent thatcher and perform an aggressive thatch of lawn.
2) Rent an aerator and aerate entire lawn (ground appears to be very compressed right now)
3) Spread seed across entire lawn
4) Spread starter fertilizer across entire lawn
5) Keep moist for 2 weeks until full germination
I have never done overseeding like this. Will this work?
Scotts has worked great on my lawn for crab grass for many years. Have you had problems with it?Post-emergent, this. Pre-emergent, this. Don't ever buy the scotts crabgrass pre-emergent.Anyone have any good suggestions for Crabgrass control. My front yard has about 10 big ones, and they are multiplying. Last year I tried one of the hand bottle spray's that was supposed to take care of Crabgrass, but I swear it did nothing. One of my friends has suggested image, which I have to mix up myself in a spray tank, maybe that will be the answer.
Any other suggestions here? I need to get rid of that stuff, I have an OK Bermuda grass front lawn besides that crabgrass.
Bayer's weed control includes crabgrass. I've not had success with anything other than this product...works really well.Anyone have any good suggestions for Crabgrass control. My front yard has about 10 big ones, and they are multiplying. Last year I tried one of the hand bottle spray's that was supposed to take care of Crabgrass, but I swear it did nothing. One of my friends has suggested image, which I have to mix up myself in a spray tank, maybe that will be the answer.
Any other suggestions here? I need to get rid of that stuff, I have an OK Bermuda grass front lawn besides that crabgrass.
So which one(thatch vs aerate) is better to do in the fall before seeding? (Assuming I use a slit seeder as recommended above)I wouldn't thatch AND aerate and once the seed is down you might want to add a step of rolling the yard to make sure the seed is in good contact with the ground.My lawn has become thin and patchy. please critique my expected procedure to remedy this.
This is an area of about 1 acre. It is not thin or patchy enough to bring in loam (which worries me if the below will work)
In early fall
1) Rent thatcher and perform an aggressive thatch of lawn.
2) Rent an aerator and aerate entire lawn (ground appears to be very compressed right now)
3) Spread seed across entire lawn
4) Spread starter fertilizer across entire lawn
5) Keep moist for 2 weeks until full germination
I have never done overseeding like this. Will this work?
Yeah, I'm using a pre-emerging now, but my biggest problem is the ones that took root a couple years ago, before I started using it.the best way to handle crabgrass is to attack it before it germinates.Anyone have any good suggestions for Crabgrass control. My front yard has about 10 big ones, and they are multiplying. Last year I tried one of the hand bottle spray's that was supposed to take care of Crabgrass, but I swear it did nothing. One of my friends has suggested image, which I have to mix up myself in a spray tank, maybe that will be the answer.
Any other suggestions here? I need to get rid of that stuff, I have an OK Bermuda grass front lawn besides that crabgrass.
Scotts has a product called "Halts" that you can put down in the early spring when you fertilize that helps prevent the crab grass from germinating.
Yeah, that's option B, well maybe G, I'd rather have the dead spots for the year then do that most likely.Came here now just for this. But I don't want to be spraying stuff at this stage of the game that will just leave a big brown spot for the summer.Anyone have any good suggestions for Crabgrass control. My front yard has about 10 big ones, and they are multiplying. Last year I tried one of the hand bottle spray's that was supposed to take care of Crabgrass, but I swear it did nothing. One of my friends has suggested image, which I have to mix up myself in a spray tank, maybe that will be the answer.
Any other suggestions here? I need to get rid of that stuff, I have an OK Bermuda grass front lawn besides that crabgrass.
( Crawled around on my hands and knees for about an hour last night... )
Yeah, haven't had any success with it. For a few years, I'd put it down in April and still had lots of crabgrass. The prodiamine on the other hand has worked great.Scotts has worked great on my lawn for crab grass for many years. Have you had problems with it?Post-emergent, this. Pre-emergent, this. Don't ever buy the scotts crabgrass pre-emergent.Anyone have any good suggestions for Crabgrass control. My front yard has about 10 big ones, and they are multiplying. Last year I tried one of the hand bottle spray's that was supposed to take care of Crabgrass, but I swear it did nothing. One of my friends has suggested image, which I have to mix up myself in a spray tank, maybe that will be the answer.
Any other suggestions here? I need to get rid of that stuff, I have an OK Bermuda grass front lawn besides that crabgrass.
I got the spreader system they have when it was on sale last fall. I basically used it for the winter mix stuff and then just used it earlier this spring for the recommended weed and feed. Mostly did a great job. Our neighbors yard has a ton of weeds while ours has just a few (mostly on the edges like along the sidewalk or street).Scotts has worked great on my lawn for crab grass for many years. Have you had problems with it?Post-emergent, this. Pre-emergent, this. Don't ever buy the scotts crabgrass pre-emergent.Anyone have any good suggestions for Crabgrass control. My front yard has about 10 big ones, and they are multiplying. Last year I tried one of the hand bottle spray's that was supposed to take care of Crabgrass, but I swear it did nothing. One of my friends has suggested image, which I have to mix up myself in a spray tank, maybe that will be the answer.
Any other suggestions here? I need to get rid of that stuff, I have an OK Bermuda grass front lawn besides that crabgrass.
Crabgrass is an annual so anything you see that's actually crabgrass sprouted from seed just this year. There's other weeds that look similar that are perennials.Yeah, I'm using a pre-emerging now, but my biggest problem is the ones that took root a couple years ago, before I started using it.the best way to handle crabgrass is to attack it before it germinates.Anyone have any good suggestions for Crabgrass control. My front yard has about 10 big ones, and they are multiplying. Last year I tried one of the hand bottle spray's that was supposed to take care of Crabgrass, but I swear it did nothing. One of my friends has suggested image, which I have to mix up myself in a spray tank, maybe that will be the answer.
Any other suggestions here? I need to get rid of that stuff, I have an OK Bermuda grass front lawn besides that crabgrass.
Scotts has a product called "Halts" that you can put down in the early spring when you fertilize that helps prevent the crab grass from germinating.
One thing I found with halts years ago was to never use it based on the calendar and to use based on nature.Yeah, haven't had any success with it. For a few years, I'd put it down in April and still had lots of crabgrass. The prodiamine on the other hand has worked great.Scotts has worked great on my lawn for crab grass for many years. Have you had problems with it?Post-emergent, this. Pre-emergent, this. Don't ever buy the scotts crabgrass pre-emergent.Anyone have any good suggestions for Crabgrass control. My front yard has about 10 big ones, and they are multiplying. Last year I tried one of the hand bottle spray's that was supposed to take care of Crabgrass, but I swear it did nothing. One of my friends has suggested image, which I have to mix up myself in a spray tank, maybe that will be the answer.
Any other suggestions here? I need to get rid of that stuff, I have an OK Bermuda grass front lawn besides that crabgrass.
I vote aerator. I purchased this one last year (at a local hardware store when it was on sale for less than this) and used it last spring and fall, and then again this spring. Instead of renting one and having to pick it up and drop it off each time, this has already paid for itself.So which one(thatch vs aerate) is better to do in the fall before seeding? (Assuming I use a slit seeder as recommended above)I wouldn't thatch AND aerate and once the seed is down you might want to add a step of rolling the yard to make sure the seed is in good contact with the ground.My lawn has become thin and patchy. please critique my expected procedure to remedy this.
This is an area of about 1 acre. It is not thin or patchy enough to bring in loam (which worries me if the below will work)
In early fall
1) Rent thatcher and perform an aggressive thatch of lawn.
2) Rent an aerator and aerate entire lawn (ground appears to be very compressed right now)
3) Spread seed across entire lawn
4) Spread starter fertilizer across entire lawn
5) Keep moist for 2 weeks until full germination
I have never done overseeding like this. Will this work?