andy_b
Footballguy
Here is what I follow for the New England area
1) Fertilize: Wait until the nearest forsynthia to your yard blooms and then put down a fertilizer that included crab grass protection. Then repeat with various fertilizer types (weed protection, bug protection etc) every 6 weeks until late fall
2) Water: It is better to water less frequently and more deeply, than more frequently and less deeply. If water stays on the surface, the grass roots will grow up to get to the water. Let your water sink in deep into the earth and force the grass roots to grow down
3) Cutting:
a) Never cut in the hottest part of the day if possible. It produces too much stress on the blade
b) Cut in a different direction each time. If you cut in the same direction every week, the blade starts to lean one way, which means the complete blade is not getting a maximum look at the sun
c) Keep your grass long (think plush carpet, not old fashioned astro turf). A longer blade will shade out weeds and be more drought resistant
d) When cutting, try to never take more than 1/3 of the blade off at a time, which may mean cutting more often in the spring when the grass grows quickly.
e) Keep your cutting blades sharp. You want to cut the grass, not rip it.
f) Mulching mowers. This is a concept that confuses most people. Yes, feeding your grass clippings back to your lawn is a good thing. However, if you can actually see the grass clippings after cutting, this will do more damage than good. If your grass is long, it is better to bag than to mulch. If your grass is short and you can REALLY mulch up what little part of the blade you are cutting, it will be beneficial to put the clippings back into the soil.
4) Seeding: It is better to seed in early fall than in the spring time. You won't battle weeds, and the temperature and harsh rains are better in the early fall than in the spring for new grass growth.
1) Fertilize: Wait until the nearest forsynthia to your yard blooms and then put down a fertilizer that included crab grass protection. Then repeat with various fertilizer types (weed protection, bug protection etc) every 6 weeks until late fall
2) Water: It is better to water less frequently and more deeply, than more frequently and less deeply. If water stays on the surface, the grass roots will grow up to get to the water. Let your water sink in deep into the earth and force the grass roots to grow down
3) Cutting:
a) Never cut in the hottest part of the day if possible. It produces too much stress on the blade
b) Cut in a different direction each time. If you cut in the same direction every week, the blade starts to lean one way, which means the complete blade is not getting a maximum look at the sun
c) Keep your grass long (think plush carpet, not old fashioned astro turf). A longer blade will shade out weeds and be more drought resistant
d) When cutting, try to never take more than 1/3 of the blade off at a time, which may mean cutting more often in the spring when the grass grows quickly.
e) Keep your cutting blades sharp. You want to cut the grass, not rip it.
f) Mulching mowers. This is a concept that confuses most people. Yes, feeding your grass clippings back to your lawn is a good thing. However, if you can actually see the grass clippings after cutting, this will do more damage than good. If your grass is long, it is better to bag than to mulch. If your grass is short and you can REALLY mulch up what little part of the blade you are cutting, it will be beneficial to put the clippings back into the soil.
4) Seeding: It is better to seed in early fall than in the spring time. You won't battle weeds, and the temperature and harsh rains are better in the early fall than in the spring for new grass growth.
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