Big debate on this. I personally don't think that just spreading seed over a lawn does much unless you top it with soil or compost and keep it wet. Seed will grow out of the aerated holes, because you get good seed to soil contact. The question is how whether this grass survives as the holes close up. I've seen varying opinions.MattFancy said:Do you need to aerate in order to overseed or can I just throw down some seed?
You probably need to really compact the soil you put down first. Do you have a tamp?I pulled up some stepping stones in our front yard, and they were down about 8 inches below our yard level. I'm wanting to plant some seed to fill in the spots, but obviously need to get it level with the rest of my yard.
Do I just fill with top soil, then lay down the seed? 2X2 foot spots, about 6 of them.
shuke said:You probably need to really compact the soil you put down first. Do you have a tamp?
How thick did you put it down? When I seed new spots, the straw isn't super thick - I don't take it off. I just leave it. When I get to the point of cutting the new grass, the mower just chops the straw up. No harm in leaving it. If anything, you probably risk damaging the grass more trying to rake up the straw than you would leaving it.when do i take the straw off? let it sit all winter? take it off before snowfall?
not real thick. not uniform, in that some spots are a bit more "heavy" than others but certainly not like a blanket.How thick did you put it down? When I seed new spots, the straw isn't super thick - I don't take it off. I just leave it. When I get to the point of cutting the new grass, the mower just chops the straw up. No harm in leaving it. If anything, you probably risk damaging the grass more trying to rake up the straw than you would leaving it.
what would you recommend in lieu of straw?Not a fan of straw. Just leave it there until after a few mows next spring and rake it up.
plant and scatter some natural grasses and then put down a layer of gravel across that entire area.I don't really need grass there, it's just an eyesore and I'd like to do something with the area. We have a pretty decently-sized covered back deck which is a more than adequate patio, so I don't NEED a patio area back there but it'd be pretty nice. My main concern with that area is getting it level - you can't see in the photo but there are some tree roots roughly above-ground underneath that weed barrier. I know that you should excavate a little bit to grade the ground for a brick patio - my concern is that it may not be possible. In all honesty, I'd probably prefer that instead of grass, in general.
ETA - only the garage on the left is mine. The one on the right is my neighbor's, my property line butts up to the side of his garage.
burn the straw to get rid of it.not real thick. not uniform, in that some spots are a bit more "heavy" than others but certainly not like a blanket.
what will my pet deer eat, though?burn the straw to get rid of it.
![]()
@mr. furley @mr. fruley @mr. furley_ @furleybaby @mr fruley @mr furleyAs an aside, I had some of my best success with patching bare spots this year with tall fescue. This is what I used (exact mix). This stuff is cheap and awesome. It keeps the soil wet for almost 24 hours.
I seeded 3 weeks ago, here is the result. Like carpet.
shuke said:
I think most guys here just shred hundred dollar bills and use that. It composts nicely into the soil also.what would you recommend in lieu of straw?
let me cash out my retirement quickI think most guys here just shred hundred dollar bills and use that. It composts nicely into the soil also.
Quit bragging.let me cash out my retirement quick
i should have at least 2 or 3 hundred to use
What is this stuff? Never heard of it. I've got some guys taking out a big blue spruce and converting a mulch bed back into yard as we speak. Looks a heck of a lot more expensive than straw.shuke said:@mr. furley @mr. fruley @mr. furley_ @furleybaby @mr fruley @mr furley
Greenview grass seed accelerator instead of straw.
bale of straw = $6 - $7 bucks here depending where you buy it. we used 3 1/4 to cover our space.What is this stuff? Never heard of it. I've got some guys taking out a big blue spruce and converting a mulch bed back into yard as we speak. Looks a heck of a lot more expensive than straw.
Depends. Did you fertilize? If so I wouldn't because it has fertilizer in it. Otherwise, if you want to mess with pulling up the straw it's probably fine but really it is best for initial seeding because it stays wet for so long and keeps the seeds wet.too late to throw this stuff on the lawn if i thin out the straw?
there are some bare patches that don't seem to be taking as well as the rest of the seed
we did not fertilize. just seed & straw.Depends. Did you fertilize? If so I wouldn't because it has fertilizer in it. Otherwise, if you want to mess with pulling up the straw it's probably fine but really it is best for initial seeding because it stays wet for so long and keeps the seeds wet.
I think it's recycled newspaper mixed with fertilizer and made into pellets. It's cheap. It's only like 12.50 for a bag that covers 600 sq ft.What is this stuff? Never heard of it. I've got some guys taking out a big blue spruce and converting a mulch bed back into yard as we speak. Looks a heck of a lot more expensive than straw.
What do you mean "overseeding"? Didn't you till and rake in the seed?we did not fertilize. just seed & straw.
not good for overseeding?
adding seed on top of existing lawnWhat do you mean "overseeding"? Didn't you till and rake in the seed?
You said you tilled up areas and put seed down. That's seeding. If you raked up dirt in an bare patch, that's seeding. This stuff is good for both.adding seed on top of existing lawn
or, in this case, throwing down seed on existing seed/bare/new lawn.
I'll have to take a look. I'm more worried that I'm seeding too late in the season, but I think I'll be OK.I think it's recycled newspaper mixed with fertilizer and made into pellets. It's cheap. It's only like 12.50 for a bag that covers 600 sq ft.
bring in squirrelsHellToupee said:Just closed on a new house and have an issue I've never dealt with before , acorns![]()
It was raining acorns last weekend . What is the best way to get rid of them ,ust raking or some other method? Are they bad for lawns?
It's tough.Just closed on a new house and have an issue I've never dealt with before , acorns![]()
It was raining acorns last weekend . What is the best way to get rid of them ,ust raking or some other method? Are they bad for lawns?
You can mow when the grass is not frozen (day before no problem); after a frost is OK too as long as the grass is no longer frozen when you do it. I don't know the specific reason, but trying to mow grass when it is at all frozen screws it up pretty bad.So couple of questions:
Can I mow the day before frost?
Can I mow after the first frost?
Can I still put down fertilizer and lime after the first frost?
I seed in February, intentionally before a snow fall - no soil prep, just cast the seed onto bare spots or areas that need thickened. That spring have had great growth and thickness. Seems contrary to what others have said about prep and timing, but results have been outstanding.I'll have to take a look. I'm more worried that I'm seeding too late in the season, but I think I'll be OK.
That makes sense for dormant seeding. It's cold enough then the seed it going to get down into the ground, but it's not going to germinate until it warms up later in the Spring. I was actually hoping to try that out this year.I seed in February, intentionally before a snow fall - no soil prep, just cast the seed onto bare spots or areas that need thickened. That spring have had great growth and thickness. Seems contrary to what others have said about prep and timing, but results have been outstanding.
I don't know where you live but in NJ there's pretty much always snow on the ground in Feb. It also doesn't sound right that the seeds germinate prior to it warming up. If you put them down in feb, that's literally a few months.I seed in February, intentionally before a snow fall - no soil prep, just cast the seed onto bare spots or areas that need thickened. That spring have had great growth and thickness. Seems contrary to what others have said about prep and timing, but results have been outstanding.
Yeah - this is my worry - I noticed a few little green shoots coming up, then zap - Friday we got a heavy freeze/frost. I'm going to end up re-seeding in Feb/March just because I don't think enough will survive the winter.That makes sense for dormant seeding. It's cold enough then the seed it going to get down into the ground, but it's not going to germinate until it warms up later in the Spring. I was actually hoping to try that out this year.
The issue people run into is putting seed down late, but when it is still warm enough in the Fall for it to go ahead and germinate. It starts the germination process and gets a small footprint going, but it's not nearly developed enough as grass to survive a hard freeze.
That sounds like sound advice. My only suggestion would be to add some compost too as it will provide additional nutrients and keep the soil moist.Old owners of my house had 4 pallets in the yard where they grew vegetables. I hated them since day one and finally got around to removing the pallets and getting rid of the mesh underlayment and potting soil ( I'm guessing it was potting soil as was dark black and very lightweight).
Now I'm left with 4 squares of raw dirt that I want to fill in with grass seed and ultimately blend in with the rest of the yard. Pic of what I have going on presently
https://www.flickr.com/gp/145687765@N04/p0h40R
I chatted with my lawn guy who sprays for weeds and stuff and tips he gave me. Agree, disagree, other advice?
This is in Milwaukee, Wisconsin btw
- get rid of mesh and soil on top of the mesh (done)
- rake through the remaining soil to dig up any roots from weeds, dig out rocks, etc. (done)
- wait til steady 50 degrees outside to continue (prob in a few more weeks)...
- get a combo seed of bluegrass, perennial rye and creeping fescue. (Don't get a hard or coarse fescue)
- Mix soil and above seed together in pail, pour onto dirt squares in lawn and rake smooth (mixing seed in with soil = no birds stealing and don't have to lay hay on top)
- Keep watered and should grow in nicely.
Outside of addl advice, my one question from above steps....should I dig up the dirt I already have on ground from pic and mix grass seed to that inside of a pail? Or should I get new fresh soil, mix with seed and lay that on top of dirt I already have there now?
Noted. When I mix the soil and seed (and now also compost) should I shovel up the soil already in the ground or use new fresh soil to add on top of what's already there?That sounds like sound advice. My only suggestion would be to add some compost too as it will provide additional nutrients and keep the soil moist.
And if you put down a crabgrass preventer, don't put any in this area.That sounds like sound advice. My only suggestion would be to add some compost too as it will provide additional nutrients and keep the soil moist.
Bump looking for answer to this with the weekday crowd.Noted. When I mix the soil and seed (and now also compost) should I shovel up the soil already in the ground or use new fresh soil to add on top of what's already there?
Just rake up what is there.Bump looking for answer to this with the weekday crowd.