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Lawn Care Tips (2 Viewers)

Garrett said:
What percentage of your yard is actually grass?  Are we talking like 60% or more of it is purely weeds?  If so the scorched earth approach The Commish suggested is your best course of action for quick results.  If that seems like jumping into the deep end, you probably should just consider a heavy weed control program this Fall and work on seeding next year.
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What would happen if I threw seed down right before winter vs. after spring?  Would it still work the same or would the cold winter damage the seeds?  I know it is kind of silly question right?  Why not just wait until Spring?  The grass won't grow until then anyway!  I'm just curious how that would turn out.

 
Have a decrepit Evergreen tree that is an eyesore and want to get taken down and stump ground out.    Utlimately we'd like to just have grass be where the present circle of pine acid is.

I know through some research that in order for pretty much anything to grow again underneath where a pine tree used to be is to just have the acid out of the ground resolve itself over time.  I think there's little things you can do to help it along like shoveling up/raking out as many of the pine needles and ground up stump.

Anybody have any experience with this?  I'm in Milwaukee...would it be wise to get that tree taken down now before Fall and then just let it be for the acid to resolve itself over Fall, Winter, Spring and then the ground should be ready to plant seed or lay sod next summer?

 
top dog said:
What would happen if I threw seed down right before winter vs. after spring?  Would it still work the same or would the cold winter damage the seeds?  I know it is kind of silly question right?  Why not just wait until Spring?  The grass won't grow until then anyway!  I'm just curious how that would turn out.
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That's not a silly question.  Seed doesn't do anything until it gets warm enough to germinate.  Google "dormant seeding" and you will find a lot more information.  I think the general consensus is that is not nearly as effective as a Fall seeding routine, but it certainly doesn't hurt when things wake up in the Spring.

 
top dog said:
Yeah.  At least 60%.  Probably more.  I don't want to go with the scorched earth approach mainly because of the dogs.  They would turn that into a mud pit wrestling match the first chance they got.  
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I can understand not wanting to deal with an entirely bare dirt area and pets.  Often times you have to go with what's practical vs the perfect option.

With that many weeds in the mix, any new seedlings are going to have a pretty difficult time getting a foothold.  If I were in that scenario, I would hit any areas that could reasonably be protected from or see low usage from dogs with round up (especially if they are completely saturated with weeds).  If areas like that don't exist, then skip that step.

In your area, I would not seed any later than the first week of September.  It seems early but the new grass needs to really get established to survive the winters you will see there.  The same day you seed/overseed, I would put down generic starter fertilizer without any weed control.  Then I would buy a bottle of Tenacity for weed control.  The first application of Tenacity can (and should be) done the exact same day you seed.  It's a very broad spectrum weed control that has a huge benefit in that it doesn't impact seeding if you time it right. 

https://www.domyown.com/tenacity-herbicide-p-1877.html

https://www.domyown.com/msds/Tenacity Herbicide Label.pdf

Tenacity works extremely well, but you just have to be careful to apply it properly.  The manual is specific and you just need to measure the square footage of your yard to get it right.  You can figure the SF pretty easily with the measure distance tool on Google Maps.

Then you can safely apply round 2 of Tenacity for weed control 4 weeks after seeding in the Fall.  At that time I would also put down a full application of Milorganite for Nitrogen; as well as a final application of Milorganite in November (roughly 8+ weeks later).

I wouldn't mess with aeration or things like that; at this point, you are just trying to get the majority of your yard to be grass.  Dormant seeding after all this certainly would not hurt either going into the Spring.

 
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top dog said:
Yeah.  At least 60%.  Probably more.  I don't want to go with the scorched earth approach mainly because of the dogs.  They would turn that into a mud pit wrestling match the first chance they got.  
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Do you have a front AND back yard?  I'd recommend doing one at a time if you have dogs, keeping them completely out of the one you are working on.

 
offdee said:
Have a decrepit Evergreen tree that is an eyesore and want to get taken down and stump ground out.    Utlimately we'd like to just have grass be where the present circle of pine acid is.

I know through some research that in order for pretty much anything to grow again underneath where a pine tree used to be is to just have the acid out of the ground resolve itself over time.  I think there's little things you can do to help it along like shoveling up/raking out as many of the pine needles and ground up stump.

Anybody have any experience with this?  I'm in Milwaukee...would it be wise to get that tree taken down now before Fall and then just let it be for the acid to resolve itself over Fall, Winter, Spring and then the ground should be ready to plant seed or lay sod next summer?
Click to expand...
You'll be amazed at what simply removing the pine needles will do.  We had long needle white pines in my yard growing up.  They shed like you wouldn't believe and nothing would grow under them.  Raked up the needles in the fall/winter and that spring grass was growing again.

 
Posted about this earlier in the thread, but old owners had 4 wood pallets in middle of yard where they planted vegetables.   I ripped those out and it left four 4'x4' squares of bare soil.  

I planted seed and that has now all grown in decently, but unfortunately I screwed up as I didn't lay any soil to level out these dirt patches with the rest of the grass.   So, now I have 4 squares that have nice grass filled in but they sit down in the lawn so you can still kind of see the outline of them.  And when you drive over it with the lawnmower there is a noticeable dip...almost like driving through a small pothole on a road.   Looking back on it, I should've just filled in with sod and that would've raised all up enough to be level.

What I'm asking is there anything I can do now besides tilling all nice grass up and putting down sod?    Would it be possible to put something over the top of these 4 grass squares....topsoil? manure?, etc.?....to get the ground all even and then the grass will eventually just grow up through this layer and fill in nicely with grass again?

 
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offdee said:
Posted about this earlier in the thread, but old owners had 4 wood pallets in middle of yard where they planted vegetables.   I ripped those out and it left four 4'x4' squares of bare soil.  

I planted seed and that has now all grown in decently, but unfortunately I screwed up as I didn't lay any soil to level out these dirt patches with the rest of the grass.   So, now I have 4 squares that have nice grass filled in but they sit down in the lawn so you can still kind of see the outline of them.  And when you drive over it with the lawnmower there is a noticeable dip...almost like driving through a small pothole on a road.   Looking back on it, I should've just filled in with sod and that would've raised all up enough to be level.

What I'm asking is there anything I can do now besides tilling all nice grass up and putting down sod?    Would it be possible to put something over the top of these 4 grass squares....topsoil? manure?, etc.?....to get the ground all even and then the grass will eventually just grow up through this layer and fill in nicely with grass again?
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Assuming its not a huge area I'd just go get a few bags of sand and fill it in.  Sand is great for filling in low spots.  Pretty cheap too.  

 
jb1020 said:
Assuming its not a huge area I'd just go get a few bags of sand and fill it in.  Sand is great for filling in low spots.  Pretty cheap too.  
Click to expand...
ah, ok.   So basically cover the four squares (each 4 ft x 4ft) with sand until level with ground and then eventually the healthy grass there now will grow through and all will stay level?

ETA: just watched some videos of some mustachio'd dude doing this.  Basically that is it....mason sand on the spots and then use one of those big bristled garage brooms to work the sand down to not smother the grass (grass blades should be seen through the top of the sand added)

 
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offdee said:
ah, ok.   So basically cover the four squares (each 4 ft x 4ft) with sand until level with ground and then eventually the healthy grass there now will grow through and all will stay level?

ETA: just watched some videos of some mustachio'd dude doing this.  Basically that is it....mason sand on the spots and then use one of those big bristled garage brooms to work the sand down to not smother the grass (grass blades should be seen through the top of the sand added)
Click to expand...
I've never done this but I assume you don't put it all down at once?  A little at a time?

 
shuke said:
I've never done this but I assume you don't put it all down at once?  A little at a time?
Click to expand...
It's all once per the video.  The key is to work all the sand down into the bed of the grass with a big broom.  Not to smother the grass with sand.  

 
Front yard is looking awful between crabgrass (wife didn’t want me to use fertilizer when the kids were little) and new sod the city put down that didn’t really survive the heat of the last few years (so I’ve got dead spots in the front and patchy / crab grass closer to the house)

gonna put seed down this fall and see if any of the brown stuff will come back but thinking I may need to just pull it all up and lay new sod.  Guy down the street just did his himself and the mailman told me he had a quote for $1400 for someone to do it.  I don’t really want to go either route at the moment though

 
potentially part lawyer guys

potentially lawn tips

bought a new house last summer. place was built in the early 80s as part of a then brand new development. the developer added a "community drain" in the back corner of our southeast neighbor's yard. the southeast corner neighbor is up on a bit of an incline so all water from his yard runs to the drain. we are the lowest point of the 4 yards. 

southeast neighbor, years ago now, planted a pine tree about 10 feet from the drain. it's enormous and looms over the drain, dropping its pine cones and needles on top of the drain. the neighbor decided that he needed to mulch and throw tons of tiny little stones under the tree... to cover the bare spot, i guess? 

downside: all that #### washes in to the drain but clogs the grates, blocking the drain and sending water in to 3 yards.  cleaning the grate is easy enough.. just gotta get to it, dislodge the trash and continue to sweep the grates clean as the water disappears. takes 30 - 60 minutes depending on volume & what's blocking the drain.

flooding has now happened a good 6-8 times in the last year. our neighbor's response has been "don't #### around in my yard, with my drain".. and a shrug of the shoulders as his yard is not impacted by the excess water.

i'm not sure what made him take action this weekend... guilt?  but he decided to "try to fix it" by ringing the drain with large, but very light, stones & pouring down yards of mulch.

it poured down rain last night. i mean, biblically. so i was awakened at 5:30 to my wife telling me that 80% of our yard was under water. i ambled out there and worked for an hour to keep the drain clear. drained most of the water.. not all. had to get ready for work & kids off to school.

he has resisted reason to this point. he blames the neighbor next to him that's slightly higher and refuses to acknowledge that his yard, while wet from rain, is not 8" deep in water like mine. my question: is there a way to force this guy to remove that tree and all the trash landscape? do i have to find a city ordinance that says he has to remedy the flooding?

are there any potential landscaping remedies? marshy plants? anything?

my wife likes to flex her google knowledge in these sorts of situations. she is suggesting that we have a dry well installed. that's way down the road as far as i'm concerned. the immediate solution has to be simpler.

:hot:

 
mr. furley said:
potentially part lawyer guys

potentially lawn tips

bought a new house last summer. place was built in the early 80s as part of a then brand new development. the developer added a "community drain" in the back corner of our southeast neighbor's yard. the southeast corner neighbor is up on a bit of an incline so all water from his yard runs to the drain. we are the lowest point of the 4 yards. 

southeast neighbor, years ago now, planted a pine tree about 10 feet from the drain. it's enormous and looms over the drain, dropping its pine cones and needles on top of the drain. the neighbor decided that he needed to mulch and throw tons of tiny little stones under the tree... to cover the bare spot, i guess? 

downside: all that #### washes in to the drain but clogs the grates, blocking the drain and sending water in to 3 yards.  cleaning the grate is easy enough.. just gotta get to it, dislodge the trash and continue to sweep the grates clean as the water disappears. takes 30 - 60 minutes depending on volume & what's blocking the drain.

flooding has now happened a good 6-8 times in the last year. our neighbor's response has been "don't #### around in my yard, with my drain".. and a shrug of the shoulders as his yard is not impacted by the excess water.

i'm not sure what made him take action this weekend... guilt?  but he decided to "try to fix it" by ringing the drain with large, but very light, stones & pouring down yards of mulch.

it poured down rain last night. i mean, biblically. so i was awakened at 5:30 to my wife telling me that 80% of our yard was under water. i ambled out there and worked for an hour to keep the drain clear. drained most of the water.. not all. had to get ready for work & kids off to school.

he has resisted reason to this point. he blames the neighbor next to him that's slightly higher and refuses to acknowledge that his yard, while wet from rain, is not 8" deep in water like mine. my question: is there a way to force this guy to remove that tree and all the trash landscape? do i have to find a city ordinance that says he has to remedy the flooding?

are there any potential landscaping remedies? marshy plants? anything?

my wife likes to flex her google knowledge in these sorts of situations. she is suggesting that we have a dry well installed. that's way down the road as far as i'm concerned. the immediate solution has to be simpler.

:hot:
Click to expand...
Normally, that sort of infrastructure is in/on an easement.  Is that not the case?  If that's not the case, and it really is "his" then it's his responsibility and I, personally, would put him on notice.  I'd have the city/county/municipality whomever come out and verify that and have them talk to him about his responsibility if that is indeed the case. I'd also let him know any bills you get because he didn't maintain things properly would be coming directly to him.

 
You guys have an HOA?  I doubt the guy owns the drain.  If he know's he's clogged the drain and your house floods he has some liability.  

 
The Commish said:
Normally, that sort of infrastructure is in/on an easement.  Is that not the case?  If that's not the case, and it really is "his" then it's his responsibility and I, personally, would put him on notice.  I'd have the city/county/municipality whomever come out and verify that and have them talk to him about his responsibility if that is indeed the case. I'd also let him know any bills you get because he didn't maintain things properly would be coming directly to him.
Click to expand...
City inspector is coming out today to look things over

trying to find info on an easement. 

we want to keep things cool with this guy but  :hot:

 
mr. furley said:
City inspector is coming out today to look things over

trying to find info on an easement. 

we want to keep things cool with this guy but  :hot:
Click to expand...
I definitely get it, but water is no joke.  Depending on how this goes, might want to consider some flood insurance if you don't have it already.

 
offdee said:
ah, ok.   So basically cover the four squares (each 4 ft x 4ft) with sand until level with ground and then eventually the healthy grass there now will grow through and all will stay level?

ETA: just watched some videos of some mustachio'd dude doing this.  Basically that is it....mason sand on the spots and then use one of those big bristled garage brooms to work the sand down to not smother the grass (grass blades should be seen through the top of the sand added)
Click to expand...
I'd done this (using top soil, not sand) for a dip where a large tree had been removed by the village years ago.  Spread the top soil and worked it in carefully, allowing the grass to pop through.  It's not quite level yet, so I'll do another round this fall or in the spring.

 
There's an area in my back lawn where the grass looks lighter green.  Not sure if this is just a normal end-of-season thing but I don't remember it.  

Here's a pic but it's not very obvious.  And yes my lawn looks like crap, we had a ####load of rain and then I was traveling so didn't have a change to cut it.

 
shuke said:
There's an area in my back lawn where the grass looks lighter green.  Not sure if this is just a normal end-of-season thing but I don't remember it.  

Here's a pic but it's not very obvious.  And yes my lawn looks like crap, we had a ####load of rain and then I was traveling so didn't have a change to cut it.
Click to expand...
My guess is you've got either a dollar spot type disease or poa trivialis.  If it's the latter... good luck.  Really hard to get rid of. 

 
Keerock said:
My guess is you've got either a dollar spot type disease or poa trivialis.  If it's the latter... good luck.  Really hard to get rid of. 
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Just watched some videos.  I don't think it's spreading above ground like poa triv.  I'll film some video later.

 
Keerock said:
Sedge Hammer is your friend.  DON'T PULL IT!
Click to expand...
I had it bad in one of my landscaping beds and I sprayed Sedge Hammer - took 3 applications to knock it back some.  I've got it in a few other spots, as well as in some spots in my yard (just under 3 acres).  The stuff is EXPENSIVE, and my understanding is mixing up a large batch and letting it sit isn't good for the effectiveness of the product.  Any tips on where to source at the best price?

Also, I was really careful not to spray on my ornamental grasses - but do I need to worry?  Anybody had any cross-kill on landscaping plants from using Sedge Hammer?

 
Fat Nick said:
I had it bad in one of my landscaping beds and I sprayed Sedge Hammer - took 3 applications to knock it back some.  I've got it in a few other spots, as well as in some spots in my yard (just under 3 acres).  The stuff is EXPENSIVE, and my understanding is mixing up a large batch and letting it sit isn't good for the effectiveness of the product.  Any tips on where to source at the best price?

Also, I was really careful not to spray on my ornamental grasses - but do I need to worry?  Anybody had any cross-kill on landscaping plants from using Sedge Hammer?
Click to expand...
I've actually never had to use it... only had nutsedge in very small doses.  I had luck with the Ortho product and it's much cheaper.

 
Fat Nick said:
I had it bad in one of my landscaping beds and I sprayed Sedge Hammer - took 3 applications to knock it back some.  I've got it in a few other spots, as well as in some spots in my yard (just under 3 acres).  The stuff is EXPENSIVE, and my understanding is mixing up a large batch and letting it sit isn't good for the effectiveness of the product.  Any tips on where to source at the best price?

Also, I was really careful not to spray on my ornamental grasses - but do I need to worry?  Anybody had any cross-kill on landscaping plants from using Sedge Hammer?
Click to expand...
I bought the packets off of Amazon.  I thought it was 3-4 packets for like $30 or something....each packet made a gallon.

 
Worm said:
Guy posted discounted neighborhood prices. These a good deal?

http://imgur.com/a/C0yKOoL

I need to do SOMETHING. We bought the house recently and the yard is a mess.
Click to expand...
Those are actually pretty good prices... but I'm leery of a few things (other than the word "approx" by all the prices):

  1. How many passes will they make with the aerator?  I would recommend 2-3
  2. Grass seed... ask to see the label.  I'd go in with some neighbors and get a bag of GCI instead
  3. Fertilizer... again ask for the label.  Want something close to a 24-24-4.  Would be nice if it had Tenacity in it too to keep crabgrass at bay
  4. Unless they did a soil analysis, there's no way to know if you need lime.
 
Worm said:
Guy posted discounted neighborhood prices. These a good deal?

http://imgur.com/a/C0yKOoL

I need to do SOMETHING. We bought the house recently and the yard is a mess.
Click to expand...
Don’t hire this guy to do your seeding. Less than 1% of weed seed means he is dropping weed seed on your lawn. It doesn’t sound like much, but if he drops a million pieces of seed, one half of one percent is 5000 weed seeds. 

Always buy 100% grass seed.

 
Worm said:
Guy posted discounted neighborhood prices. These a good deal?

http://imgur.com/a/C0yKOoL

I need to do SOMETHING. We bought the house recently and the yard is a mess.
Click to expand...
Can't rent the aerator for that much and you don't have to be dragged around the yard by it...sign up for that.  The rest, do yourself.  For the seeding up there, I had the best results going to a John Deere nursery and getting their tri-fescue blend.  It's about $100 for a 50lb bag.

ETA:  It might have been called tri-gold.....my memory is fading :kicksrock:  

 
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Thanks dudes.

My lawn is pretty much infested already with all sorts of crap. Was that way when we moved in a few months ago. What's my best plan? Am I wasting money aerating/seeding/etc before I get things under control?

 
Worm said:
Thanks dudes.

My lawn is pretty much infested already with all sorts of crap. Was that way when we moved in a few months ago. What's my best plan? Am I wasting money aerating/seeding/etc before I get things under control?
Click to expand...
Without seeing it, it's hard to tell.  You could go the nuke route (kill everything and start from scratch)... but if you have any grass cover at all (30%+?) it may be overkill (no pun intended).

An aggressive aerate and overseed "should" be sufficient.  A healthy lawn will choke out most weeds.  Just make sure to spot treat weeds as they occur, and the key is patience.  The only way to get instant gratification is with sod... and that comes with it's own set of hassles. 

 
Time to get that fall feeding down, boys. 

Also, don’t forget to winterize your mower and other gas-powered equipment. 

And winterize the water pressure pump (electric and gas).  

 
Besides early fall when all the weeds die off and the grass is nice and dark green,   this is my favorite time of year coming up.   Let's get after it fellas.   

 
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