ConstruxBoy
Kate's Daddy
Question for everyone: Guy who did my aeration said that Winterizer doesn't really do much and instead to spread a pre-emergent the first weekend of Dec and the last weekend of Jan. Has anyone else heard that advice?
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Lawn Care Tips (2 Viewers)
- Thread starter andy_b
- Start date
shuke
Black Ice Skeptic
A pre-emergent without a fertilizer? Never heard of that.
ConstruxBoy
Kate's Daddy
Yeah, I wasn't quite sure what he was talking about.
The Commish
Footballguy
Is he talking about just putting down some HALTS minus the fert?
ConstruxBoy
Kate's Daddy
Maybe. Anyone do that? What is the general thought on Winterizer?The Commish said:
The Commish
Footballguy
"winterizer" isn't anything more than even slower release fert, right?? I've not done it before other than the Winter time Scotts bag.
ConstruxBoy
Kate's Daddy
Yep, just wondering if most people used the Scotts (or whatever, I prefer Vigoro) each Fall.
The Commish
Footballguy
I'd go with the eye test GB. If it looks good, keep doing what you're doing. If it looks like crap, might want to change it up a bit.
ConstruxBoy
Kate's Daddy
Last time I followed that advice I ended up married.I'd go with the eye test GB. If it looks good, keep doing what you're doing. If it looks like crap, might want to change it up a bit.
Buddy Ball 2K3
Footballguy
over seeding the lawn
discuss
discuss
Jason Bourne
Footballguy
I wan to seed and fertilize with a crabgrass protector - what is the right order for doing this?
DynOmite
Footballguy
As a new homeowner, I've been doing some reading on the subject and it seems that a misconception exists about spring fertilizing. From what I've seen, use a pre-emergent for crabgrass when forsythia blooms and then fertilize later, mid to late May. Apparently this has something to do with root growth and feeding versus just promoting a quick top level growth from an early spring fertilizing.
Dr. Awesome
Footballguy
Grassdot
shuke
Black Ice Skeptic
I've done it in the fall, not really sure how effective it is if you're not working the seed into the soil. I'd say rent a slit seeder.
beer 30
Footballguy
I've only used winterizer once and that was up in OH, not here in SC. It absolutely greened the grass right up in the spring, first house to be green on the block. Here's my plan this year since I noticed this last year. Put down Scott's halts w/fertilizer about 2 weeks ago, another month or so hit it with weed and feed to kill the leafy stuff then come back with a light dose of halts w/fertilizer again in mid to late summer. The freaking crab grass at my place comes back twice. Spring application does a nice job but by August last year it was coming back again.I like the idea of laying it down in the winter tho, let me know how that works out.
I really need to overseed my lawn bad. I planted a lot of new late last year and the spots where I put it down is coming in nice but the rest of the hay field looks like hell. Too late to do it this year, maybe late fall if I don't lay down the pre-emergent in the winter.
Ned
Footballguy
I was wondering the same thing as I think the crabgrass preventers will also prevent your grass seed from germinating.
CYUNVme
Footballguy
OK, I'll take my turn at the help desk and throw out this scenario:
Southern California, USDA zone 9, High Clay content soil, Hybrid Tall Fescue lawn in 4th year cut at 2.75 inches.
Issues:
Overall Health - My lawn looks worse now than it did two years ago. It's thinning, takes lots of water not to wilt, and it's natural green (pre fertilizer) isn't as dark as it used to be.
Clay Soil - When prepping for grass, amended soil with gypsum per local landscape supply. I have since broadcast applied (50lbs/5000 sqft) once a year in fall. I don't think its working as evidenced by Health of Lawn (see above), water run-off, and hard feel of ground. Suggestions for treatment?
Lumpy/Uneven - When I prep'd for the sod, I had the soil leveled to a frigg'en T! Now the back yard is full of ankle twisting lumps and the front yard has several low, "sunk-in" spots. How do I fix this?
Fertilizing - I typically hit the grass with a weed-n-feed in the spring, straight fertilizer twice over summer, then a "winterizer" in the fall. I changed gears after I noticed the weed-n-feed seemed to harm the grass and have been skipping it. Last year instead of using a Scott's ect fertilizer, I went with straight ammonium sulfate (carefully applied to prevent burns) and it greened my grass like never before. What do you think? Thoughts on adding Iron or using a 16-16-16 fertilizer blend?
Watering - I constantly read about over-watering, but the fact is, if I don't water twice a day (forget the total inches of water at the moment), my grass doesn't hold up. Of course if I go too much I suffer from mushrooms (and the bill). I suspect the clay is at fault here. Suggestions?
OK, that's enough for now - I know its long, but I appreciate any help you can provide!
Southern California, USDA zone 9, High Clay content soil, Hybrid Tall Fescue lawn in 4th year cut at 2.75 inches.
Issues:
Overall Health - My lawn looks worse now than it did two years ago. It's thinning, takes lots of water not to wilt, and it's natural green (pre fertilizer) isn't as dark as it used to be.
Clay Soil - When prepping for grass, amended soil with gypsum per local landscape supply. I have since broadcast applied (50lbs/5000 sqft) once a year in fall. I don't think its working as evidenced by Health of Lawn (see above), water run-off, and hard feel of ground. Suggestions for treatment?
Lumpy/Uneven - When I prep'd for the sod, I had the soil leveled to a frigg'en T! Now the back yard is full of ankle twisting lumps and the front yard has several low, "sunk-in" spots. How do I fix this?
Fertilizing - I typically hit the grass with a weed-n-feed in the spring, straight fertilizer twice over summer, then a "winterizer" in the fall. I changed gears after I noticed the weed-n-feed seemed to harm the grass and have been skipping it. Last year instead of using a Scott's ect fertilizer, I went with straight ammonium sulfate (carefully applied to prevent burns) and it greened my grass like never before. What do you think? Thoughts on adding Iron or using a 16-16-16 fertilizer blend?
Watering - I constantly read about over-watering, but the fact is, if I don't water twice a day (forget the total inches of water at the moment), my grass doesn't hold up. Of course if I go too much I suffer from mushrooms (and the bill). I suspect the clay is at fault here. Suggestions?
OK, that's enough for now - I know its long, but I appreciate any help you can provide!
andy_b
Footballguy
a few years ago this was near impossible to do as almost any crab grass preventative fertilizer also blocked seeds from germinating.However, Scotts, and other now have a crabgrass preventative that allows for seeds to germinate although I have heard is it very expensive. I have not tried the product so I am unsure how well it works.This issue, amongst many others is why seeding in the fall can be preferable to seeding in the spring.I was wondering the same thing as I think the crabgrass preventers will also prevent your grass seed from germinating.
andy_b
Footballguy
This is exactly the correct thing to do in the New England area. I have been doing this for 15 years and every year with out fail my lawn has very little crab grass, especially compared to neighbors. See the very first post in this thread and first tip listed in that post and I mentioned this.One key though is to find a forsythia that is as close to your house as possible. If you don't have one, they are cheap enough to buy and plant along a border. You can either shape them or let them run wild but run wild they will. Very hearty bush.
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beer 30
Footballguy
The only times I've planted seed in the fall I've had good results and if you are using a pre-emergent then you almost have to plant then. I would think it's better for the seed too, gives it time to germinate over the winter months rather than being rushed in the spring then dosed with fertilizer.a few years ago this was near impossible to do as almost any crab grass preventative fertilizer also blocked seeds from germinating.However, Scotts, and other now have a crabgrass preventative that allows for seeds to germinate although I have heard is it very expensive. I have not tried the product so I am unsure how well it works.I was wondering the same thing as I think the crabgrass preventers will also prevent your grass seed from germinating.
This issue, amongst many others is why seeding in the fall can be preferable to seeding in the spring.
shuke
Black Ice Skeptic
Scotts has a starter fertilizer with crabgrass preventer.I was wondering the same thing as I think the crabgrass preventers will also prevent your grass seed from germinating.
D_House
Footballguy
First off, thanks for the answers to my question, I've done some more reading and think I will try to start an organic program for the lawn.
Does anybody here do this?
Seems like it's actually the easiest route. Just spread some compost on the lawn in Spring if your soil needs help; mow high, mulch, and water deep throughout the summer; then use an organic fertilizer in the fall.
My lawn is seems pretty hard/compacted (it's a 50+ year old neighborhood), so I'll probably also aerate in the fall.
Does anybody here do this?
Seems like it's actually the easiest route. Just spread some compost on the lawn in Spring if your soil needs help; mow high, mulch, and water deep throughout the summer; then use an organic fertilizer in the fall.
My lawn is seems pretty hard/compacted (it's a 50+ year old neighborhood), so I'll probably also aerate in the fall.
Boulder Toads
Footballguy
Been doing the organic approach for a few years now (south TX) with pretty good results ... like you said, it's pretty easy to maintain.Key ingredient for my St. Augustine grass here in TX is an application of Corn Gluten Meal (CGM) in both the early spring and early fall. CGM is a natural fertilizer and doubles as a pre-emergent. Last couple years I've hit the lawn 2x a year with 15-20lb/1000sqft CGM, mow it high (mulch), water deep once a week from May-October ... its been the greenest summer lawn on the block with minimal weeds. I still get a fair amount of early spring / late fall weeds, but once the growing season hits they are quickly crowded out by the grass.My lawn was also pretty compacted, and I aerated + lava sand to get it worked up a bit. Think I added some dry molassess as well to help the 'good' bugs stay active, but that was more of an experiment I read about. Didn't make a noticeable difference.The website that helped me learn a ton was www.dirtdoctor.com ... it may be more local to TX, but I think folks from all over are in the forum, etc.
Al Czervik
Not wearing pants
Does it kill just the crabgrass (and not the good grass)?
FavreCo
Footballguy
Rip it out. Replace with Zoysiagrass.http://www.american-lawns.com/grasses/zoysia.htmlCYUNVme said:
flapgreen
Footballguy
Damn moles are destroying my yard.
ther than a shotgun, what is the best way to kill these things?
belljr
Footballguy
Napalm.... I've been fighting this fight for 6 years now. Other than getting a trap its near impossible. I do the poison pellets and gum. I've managed to kill 2 moles and 3 field mice but this last one(s) has run wild this winter and did a lot of damage. The noise posts don't work and the yard spray doesn't appear to repel them either.I'm obsessed, my wife calls me carl spackler because of itDamn moles are destroying my yard.
CYUNVme
Footballguy
Jobber
Footballguy
Apply some grub killer and take away their main food supply. They'll move to your neighbor's yard.Damn moles are destroying my yard.
fridayfrenzy
Footballguy
Live in Saskatchewan, Canada.
1. When is the right time to fertilize/weed'n feed for the first time of the spring/summer?
2. I have heard that aerating a lawn anything north of Texas is not necessary. Any truth to this?
3. I am thinking of dethatching my lawn, as my lawn has a ton of dead grass. I am envisioning that my lawn will thin out quite a bit because of this, so is there anything to do right after to fill it out? Sprinkle grass seed?
4. We have some clover patches in our back yard and in that area the grass is essentially non-existent...what are the steps to take to get rid of the clover and grow the grass?
1. When is the right time to fertilize/weed'n feed for the first time of the spring/summer?
2. I have heard that aerating a lawn anything north of Texas is not necessary. Any truth to this?
3. I am thinking of dethatching my lawn, as my lawn has a ton of dead grass. I am envisioning that my lawn will thin out quite a bit because of this, so is there anything to do right after to fill it out? Sprinkle grass seed?
4. We have some clover patches in our back yard and in that area the grass is essentially non-existent...what are the steps to take to get rid of the clover and grow the grass?
Random
Footballguy
How much did this cost? Is there a way kit or something for those that wish to take the diy approach?
fsufan
Footballguy
2K, i have a small yard. my mom has 2 acers and she did her front and 2 sides and she paid 4K
CYUNVme
Footballguy
You can install one yourself for much less money - the supplies themselves are inexpensive. It can be labor intensive if you hand dig the trenches, but that's what a trencher from your local rental yard is for. For Ohio, you'd want to make sure you configure for a way to drain the system out seasonally so freezing doesn't crack the pipes.fsufan said:
JerseyToughGuys
Tough Guy
I have the same issue with the clay. I need to put in some drainage, which hopefully help with some of the water run off issues.
Jobber
Footballguy
Can/should you aerate in the spring? I meant to do it this last fall bud didn't.
southeastjerome
Footballguy
Fall is a much better time for overseeding. You battle less weeds, crabgrass, etc.
gmbacm
Footballguy
you can aerate anytime - many do it spring and early fall. Avoid early spring as wet ground will create a big mess and be a lot more work. I aerate every year and that seems to work for my lawn. Generally clay soils will need to be aerated more often.Can/should you aerate in the spring? I meant to do it this last fall bud didn't.
ConstruxBoy
Kate's Daddy
Did a pre-emergent back in December, but it didn't seem to work as there are weeds everywhere. Just put down the Vigoro Early Spring Crabgrass fert this weekend, but that only works pre-emergent for the crabgrass. Any suggestions to get rid of the other weeds now that they are around?
shuke
Black Ice Skeptic
I hope this is shtick.
gmbacm
Footballguy
some clover is actually good for your lawn. Nothing wrong with it - unless you are anal about your lawn's look.
desert rose
Footballguy
My backyard needs major help. It's almost 5 years old. The original "landscaping," if you can call it that, had a half moon patch of grass coming up to the porch. The rest was covered with a plastic covering and crushed rock. There are 4 giant oleanders (these apparently grow really fast) and an unidentified tree. Crab grass has pretty much grown up all over the crushed rock. And the black plastic is showing here and there, with rips in it. It's not at all the backyard I'd love to have.
The Commish
Footballguy
Have you checked out the Organic Plant Health by Food Lion? That's the route I am going this year. About the same amount as the Scotts treatments, but you are applying stuff each month. Last month I applied pre-emergent, this month soil amendments, next month another round of pre-emergent etc. No fert until May (if I remember correctly). They're really helpful...will give you a calender and everything.
