Lawn Care Tips (1 Viewer)

[belljr]

Is it ok to put down grass seed this time of year, after an application of crabgrass preventer? Will that kill the seed too?

No do one or the other.My plan this year since I had poor growth due to some issues.I am going to seed and fertilize. After 5-6 weeks they now make an Ortho spray that kills crabgrass so I'll hit the lawn with that after the seed can mature.If you put seed down not then put the halts down you killed your seed.Ortho or Weed-B-Gone now has crabgrass preventer/killer

 

[NewlyRetired]

My lawn has more weeds compared to my neighbors. I think I live in a TruGreen neighborhood. I bought a large bag of Scott's Weed and Feed to try and get a hold on my weeds. Is it too early to put down? I'm in the mid-atlantic area.

I am not in your area of the country so I am not sure but for here in New England that is way way too early for a weed and feed. The weed and feeds typically target broadleef weeds and they are best to kill when they are actively growing.Here in New England I would not put down a weed and feed until the mid to late May time frame (depending upon weed activity).

Thanks. So is there something else I can put down now to try and kill off some of these weeds? If I spend much more on different products, it may be more cost effective to go with a couple applications of TruGreen next year.

It is very difficult to kill an item that is dormant without scorching the earth. For now put down your crab grass preventative, and fertilize. Keep your lawns height to at least 3 inches. In 6 weeks from when you fertilize, then you can add the weed and feed. Just be patient and remember that healthy grass is the best defense for weeds. See the first post in this thread for a lot of good tips.

 

[shuke]

My lawn has more weeds compared to my neighbors. I think I live in a TruGreen neighborhood. I bought a large bag of Scott's Weed and Feed to try and get a hold on my weeds. Is it too early to put down? I'm in the mid-atlantic area.

I am not in your area of the country so I am not sure but for here in New England that is way way too early for a weed and feed. The weed and feeds typically target broadleef weeds and they are best to kill when they are actively growing.

Here in New England I would not put down a weed and feed until the mid to late May time frame (depending upon weed activity).

Thanks. So is there something else I can put down now to try and kill off some of these weeds? If I spend much more on different products, it may be more cost effective to go with a couple applications of TruGreen next year.

Put down Scotts with Halts right now. Then spray already existing weeds with this.

 

[Wild Young Billy]

Is it ok to put down grass seed this time of year, after an application of crabgrass preventer? Will that kill the seed too?

Typically you can not do this as crabgrass preventer does also kill the grass seed.However, if you can find it, there are certain formulas of crab grass preventer that do not kill grass seed. They are expensive.If you read the first post in this thread I made many moons ago, you will see that it is generally recommended to seed in the fall rather than the spring for a variety of reasons.

Thanks.

 

[The Commish]

My lawn has more weeds compared to my neighbors. I think I live in a TruGreen neighborhood. I bought a large bag of Scott's Weed and Feed to try and get a hold on my weeds. Is it too early to put down? I'm in the mid-atlantic area.

I am not in your area of the country so I am not sure but for here in New England that is way way too early for a weed and feed. The weed and feeds typically target broadleef weeds and they are best to kill when they are actively growing.

Here in New England I would not put down a weed and feed until the mid to late May time frame (depending upon weed activity).

Thanks. So is there something else I can put down now to try and kill off some of these weeds? If I spend much more on different products, it may be more cost effective to go with a couple applications of TruGreen next year.

Put down Scotts with Halts right now. Then spray already existing weeds with this.

How's this stuff in planting beds around plants/flowers etc?

 

[Dark Matter]

My lawn has more weeds compared to my neighbors. I think I live in a TruGreen neighborhood. I bought a large bag of Scott's Weed and Feed to try and get a hold on my weeds. Is it too early to put down? I'm in the mid-atlantic area.

I am not in your area of the country so I am not sure but for here in New England that is way way too early for a weed and feed. The weed and feeds typically target broadleef weeds and they are best to kill when they are actively growing.

Here in New England I would not put down a weed and feed until the mid to late May time frame (depending upon weed activity).

Thanks. So is there something else I can put down now to try and kill off some of these weeds? If I spend much more on different products, it may be more cost effective to go with a couple applications of TruGreen next year.

Put down Scotts with Halts right now. Then spray already existing weeds with this.

How's this stuff in planting beds around plants/flowers etc?

I wouldn't as the label instructs not to mow for 1-2 days after application and not to spread clippings from the first 3 mowings as mulch in flower beds, ornamentals, etc. Product Label

 

[Da Guru]

Two weeks used ago I used Scott TurfBuilder+Iron. Had never seen this product before, bought it as Costco. Right now I have thre greenest lawn around.

http://www.scotts.com/smg/catalog/productTemplate.jsp?proId=prod100050&itemId=cat50034&icid=hp1_mm_p_slf

 

[The Commish]

My lawn has more weeds compared to my neighbors. I think I live in a TruGreen neighborhood. I bought a large bag of Scott's Weed and Feed to try and get a hold on my weeds. Is it too early to put down? I'm in the mid-atlantic area.

I am not in your area of the country so I am not sure but for here in New England that is way way too early for a weed and feed. The weed and feeds typically target broadleef weeds and they are best to kill when they are actively growing.

Here in New England I would not put down a weed and feed until the mid to late May time frame (depending upon weed activity).

Thanks. So is there something else I can put down now to try and kill off some of these weeds? If I spend much more on different products, it may be more cost effective to go with a couple applications of TruGreen next year.

Put down Scotts with Halts right now. Then spray already existing weeds with this.

How's this stuff in planting beds around plants/flowers etc?

I wouldn't as the label instructs not to mow for 1-2 days after application and not to spread clippings from the first 3 mowings as mulch in flower beds, ornamentals, etc. Product Label

That's why I asked. Needed the sanity check. Anyone have a good spray for weeds in planting beds?

 

[BigJohn]

Mowed, trimmed and put down Scotts Turf Builder w/ the weed control. Home Depot was out of the crabgrass preventer, but I dont really have a crabgrass problem. I'm overrun with clover and another large patch of another type of stuff that I've never noticed before. It's lighter green and has these random purple blooms on them. Any ideas as to what they are?

 

[The Commish]

Mowed, trimmed and put down Scotts Turf Builder w/ the weed control. Home Depot was out of the crabgrass preventer, but I dont really have a crabgrass problem. I'm overrun with clover and another large patch of another type of stuff that I've never noticed before. It's lighter green and has these random purple blooms on them. Any ideas as to what they are?

Purple Clover?

 

[BigJohn]

Mowed, trimmed and put down Scotts Turf Builder w/ the weed control. Home Depot was out of the crabgrass preventer, but I dont really have a crabgrass problem. I'm overrun with clover and another large patch of another type of stuff that I've never noticed before. It's lighter green and has these random purple blooms on them. Any ideas as to what they are?

Purple Clover?

Don't think so. I'm at work so I'm going a bit off memory. I've been googling and the closest that I've seen is wild violet. Onlt difference is I dont think there are that many flowers. I'll probably take a picture with my phone when I get home.

 

[rascal]

Buying a house that has several pine trees in the backyard which has resulted in bare ground for a large portion of the yard. Once I remove the trees, what should I do to get a nice green lawn next spring/summer?

 

[The Commish]

Buying a house that has several pine trees in the backyard which has resulted in bare ground for a large portion of the yard. Once I remove the trees, what should I do to get a nice green lawn next spring/summer?

Why would you remove the trees?

 

[SteevieG]

Mowed, trimmed and put down Scotts Turf Builder w/ the weed control. Home Depot was out of the crabgrass preventer, but I dont really have a crabgrass problem. I'm overrun with clover and another large patch of another type of stuff that I've never noticed before. It's lighter green and has these random purple blooms on them. Any ideas as to what they are?

Might be henbit. The warm winter really got me. My Bermuda lawn was ate up with the Henbit. Now just poa for the most part.

 

[NewlyRetired]

Buying a house that has several pine trees in the backyard which has resulted in bare ground for a large portion of the yard. Once I remove the trees, what should I do to get a nice green lawn next spring/summer?

Pine Needles provide a ton of acid which is very bad for grass.Getting rid of the trees is great.Next step is to get the soil more balanced. You can do this by adding lime to the soil after you have removed all needles from the surface.By the time the fall comes around, dig up the area you want to fix at least three inches deep and then seed as you normally would. Things should look better this fall and wonderful next spring.

 

[rascal]

Buying a house that has several pine trees in the backyard which has resulted in bare ground for a large portion of the yard. Once I remove the trees, what should I do to get a nice green lawn next spring/summer?

Why would you remove the trees?

I'm not getting rid of all of them. There are several nice ones, but a lot need to go as they are in bad shape, they occupy 50% of my backyard and having a three year old I want to give him a nice area to play in, and i like grass

 

[rascal]

Buying a house that has several pine trees in the backyard which has resulted in bare ground for a large portion of the yard. Once I remove the trees, what should I do to get a nice green lawn next spring/summer?

Pine Needles provide a ton of acid which is very bad for grass.Getting rid of the trees is great.Next step is to get the soil more balanced. You can do this by adding lime to the soil after you have removed all needles from the surface.By the time the fall comes around, dig up the area you want to fix at least three inches deep and then seed as you normally would. Things should look better this fall and wonderful next spring.

Do I need to put in new soil?

 

[The Commish]

Buying a house that has several pine trees in the backyard which has resulted in bare ground for a large portion of the yard. Once I remove the trees, what should I do to get a nice green lawn next spring/summer?

Pine Needles provide a ton of acid which is very bad for grass.Getting rid of the trees is great.Next step is to get the soil more balanced. You can do this by adding lime to the soil after you have removed all needles from the surface.By the time the fall comes around, dig up the area you want to fix at least three inches deep and then seed as you normally would. Things should look better this fall and wonderful next spring.

If you want grass you have to maintain. Our pines are awesome for the very reason that they make it hard for grass/weeds to grow. That's why I asked him why he was removing them.

 

[NewlyRetired]

Buying a house that has several pine trees in the backyard which has resulted in bare ground for a large portion of the yard. Once I remove the trees, what should I do to get a nice green lawn next spring/summer?

Pine Needles provide a ton of acid which is very bad for grass.Getting rid of the trees is great.Next step is to get the soil more balanced. You can do this by adding lime to the soil after you have removed all needles from the surface.By the time the fall comes around, dig up the area you want to fix at least three inches deep and then seed as you normally would. Things should look better this fall and wonderful next spring.

Do I need to put in new soil?

no you shouldn't have to. Just need to rebalance it.

 

[The Commish]

Buying a house that has several pine trees in the backyard which has resulted in bare ground for a large portion of the yard. Once I remove the trees, what should I do to get a nice green lawn next spring/summer?

Why would you remove the trees?

I'm not getting rid of all of them. There are several nice ones, but a lot need to go as they are in bad shape, they occupy 50% of my backyard and having a three year old I want to give him a nice area to play in, and i like grass

Ok....makes sense. They can be dangerous if not kept up. My dad had several cut out of his yard. They removed the roots as well and the yard sunk 2-3 inches. The trees were huge. After they were removed we bought a couple truck loads of top soil to level off the yard. Spread seed and starter fert and it was off to the races. I'd put the seed and fert down in the fall though. It can be done in the spring, but just requires more work/monitoring.

 

[NewlyRetired]

Buying a house that has several pine trees in the backyard which has resulted in bare ground for a large portion of the yard. Once I remove the trees, what should I do to get a nice green lawn next spring/summer?

Pine Needles provide a ton of acid which is very bad for grass.Getting rid of the trees is great.

Next step is to get the soil more balanced. You can do this by adding lime to the soil after you have removed all needles from the surface.

By the time the fall comes around, dig up the area you want to fix at least three inches deep and then seed as you normally would. Things should look better this fall and wonderful next spring.

If you want grass you have to maintain. Our pines are awesome for the very reason that they make it hard for grass/weeds to grow. That's why I asked him why he was removing them.

did you even read his post? See the bold type above

 

[belljr]

Buying a house that has several pine trees in the backyard which has resulted in bare ground for a large portion of the yard. Once I remove the trees, what should I do to get a nice green lawn next spring/summer?

Pine Needles provide a ton of acid which is very bad for grass.Getting rid of the trees is great.Next step is to get the soil more balanced. You can do this by adding lime to the soil after you have removed all needles from the surface.By the time the fall comes around, dig up the area you want to fix at least three inches deep and then seed as you normally would. Things should look better this fall and wonderful next spring.

Do I need to put in new soil?

no you shouldn't have to. Just need to rebalance it.

You can get your soil tested. I have been fighting for years now (new development, wooded area) - I don't have enough top soil and too many trees. Anyway get your ph checked because putting down the wrong lime could make it worseCalcitic Lime: Mined from natural limestone, calcitic lime is then crushed up into finely ground powder granules. Pelletized lime is created from finely ground lime plus a cementing agent that is added to form pellets. Pellets are more expensive but easier to use and eliminate the dust problem of granular lime. Pellets dissolve in water so it's important to water thoroughly after application. Calcitic lime also contains calcium, a necessary element to encourage healthy plant growth. Calcitic lime is most often applied to lawns but may also benefit garden plants, shrubs and flowers.Dolomitic Lime: Dolomitic lime is mined in the same manner as calcitic lime and is also crushed and sold in either finely ground powder form or pellets. Dolomitic lime provides both calcium and magnesium. Dolomitic lime is most often applied to lawns but may also benefit garden plants, shrubs and flowers.

 

[The Commish]

Buying a house that has several pine trees in the backyard which has resulted in bare ground for a large portion of the yard. Once I remove the trees, what should I do to get a nice green lawn next spring/summer?

Pine Needles provide a ton of acid which is very bad for grass.Getting rid of the trees is great.Next step is to get the soil more balanced. You can do this by adding lime to the soil after you have removed all needles from the surface.By the time the fall comes around, dig up the area you want to fix at least three inches deep and then seed as you normally would. Things should look better this fall and wonderful next spring.

Do I need to put in new soil?

no you shouldn't have to. Just need to rebalance it.

You can get your soil tested. I have been fighting for years now (new development, wooded area) - I don't have enough top soil and too many trees. Anyway get your ph checked because putting down the wrong lime could make it worseCalcitic Lime: Mined from natural limestone, calcitic lime is then crushed up into finely ground powder granules. Pelletized lime is created from finely ground lime plus a cementing agent that is added to form pellets. Pellets are more expensive but easier to use and eliminate the dust problem of granular lime. Pellets dissolve in water so it's important to water thoroughly after application. Calcitic lime also contains calcium, a necessary element to encourage healthy plant growth. Calcitic lime is most often applied to lawns but may also benefit garden plants, shrubs and flowers.Dolomitic Lime: Dolomitic lime is mined in the same manner as calcitic lime and is also crushed and sold in either finely ground powder form or pellets. Dolomitic lime provides both calcium and magnesium. Dolomitic lime is most often applied to lawns but may also benefit garden plants, shrubs and flowers.

Right....you can spend years trying to rebalance what the trees did, or you can get topsoil in to speed the process up. By our estimation it would have taken 3-4 years of treatments to get the existing soil to where it was viable. We didn't want to wait that long.

 

[NewlyRetired]

Buying a house that has several pine trees in the backyard which has resulted in bare ground for a large portion of the yard. Once I remove the trees, what should I do to get a nice green lawn next spring/summer?

Pine Needles provide a ton of acid which is very bad for grass.Getting rid of the trees is great.Next step is to get the soil more balanced. You can do this by adding lime to the soil after you have removed all needles from the surface.By the time the fall comes around, dig up the area you want to fix at least three inches deep and then seed as you normally would. Things should look better this fall and wonderful next spring.

Do I need to put in new soil?

no you shouldn't have to. Just need to rebalance it.

You can get your soil tested. I have been fighting for years now (new development, wooded area) - I don't have enough top soil and too many trees. Anyway get your ph checked because putting down the wrong lime could make it worseCalcitic Lime: Mined from natural limestone, calcitic lime is then crushed up into finely ground powder granules. Pelletized lime is created from finely ground lime plus a cementing agent that is added to form pellets. Pellets are more expensive but easier to use and eliminate the dust problem of granular lime. Pellets dissolve in water so it's important to water thoroughly after application. Calcitic lime also contains calcium, a necessary element to encourage healthy plant growth. Calcitic lime is most often applied to lawns but may also benefit garden plants, shrubs and flowers.Dolomitic Lime: Dolomitic lime is mined in the same manner as calcitic lime and is also crushed and sold in either finely ground powder form or pellets. Dolomitic lime provides both calcium and magnesium. Dolomitic lime is most often applied to lawns but may also benefit garden plants, shrubs and flowers.

This is a good point. If you don't have enough top soil, then growing grass even with the trees gone is going to be hard. If you don't mind the added cost, you can add 3 inches of top soil to where you want to seed to make things easier for yourself.

 

[belljr]

Buying a house that has several pine trees in the backyard which has resulted in bare ground for a large portion of the yard. Once I remove the trees, what should I do to get a nice green lawn next spring/summer?

Pine Needles provide a ton of acid which is very bad for grass.Getting rid of the trees is great.Next step is to get the soil more balanced. You can do this by adding lime to the soil after you have removed all needles from the surface.By the time the fall comes around, dig up the area you want to fix at least three inches deep and then seed as you normally would. Things should look better this fall and wonderful next spring.

Do I need to put in new soil?

no you shouldn't have to. Just need to rebalance it.

You can get your soil tested. I have been fighting for years now (new development, wooded area) - I don't have enough top soil and too many trees. Anyway get your ph checked because putting down the wrong lime could make it worseCalcitic Lime: Mined from natural limestone, calcitic lime is then crushed up into finely ground powder granules. Pelletized lime is created from finely ground lime plus a cementing agent that is added to form pellets. Pellets are more expensive but easier to use and eliminate the dust problem of granular lime. Pellets dissolve in water so it's important to water thoroughly after application. Calcitic lime also contains calcium, a necessary element to encourage healthy plant growth. Calcitic lime is most often applied to lawns but may also benefit garden plants, shrubs and flowers.Dolomitic Lime: Dolomitic lime is mined in the same manner as calcitic lime and is also crushed and sold in either finely ground powder form or pellets. Dolomitic lime provides both calcium and magnesium. Dolomitic lime is most often applied to lawns but may also benefit garden plants, shrubs and flowers.

Right....you can spend years trying to rebalance what the trees did, or you can get topsoil in to speed the process up. By our estimation it would have taken 3-4 years of treatments to get the existing soil to where it was viable. We didn't want to wait that long.

Yep - I know if I want to fix this - I need to really tear up the place and come drop 4 inches of top soil. Just don't feel like it. I posted pics before but my yard is not awful, just gets thin and harder to really get it plush any more. I'm surrounded by woods etc etc. I know my ph is off because Iam getting moss. Anyway that's where I'm at. I stopped renting a seeder because it just wasn't mattering anymore so I do it by hand and rank - I'll probably get it tested again this spring

 

[The Commish]

Buying a house that has several pine trees in the backyard which has resulted in bare ground for a large portion of the yard. Once I remove the trees, what should I do to get a nice green lawn next spring/summer?

Pine Needles provide a ton of acid which is very bad for grass.Getting rid of the trees is great.Next step is to get the soil more balanced. You can do this by adding lime to the soil after you have removed all needles from the surface.By the time the fall comes around, dig up the area you want to fix at least three inches deep and then seed as you normally would. Things should look better this fall and wonderful next spring.

Do I need to put in new soil?

no you shouldn't have to. Just need to rebalance it.

You can get your soil tested. I have been fighting for years now (new development, wooded area) - I don't have enough top soil and too many trees. Anyway get your ph checked because putting down the wrong lime could make it worseCalcitic Lime: Mined from natural limestone, calcitic lime is then crushed up into finely ground powder granules. Pelletized lime is created from finely ground lime plus a cementing agent that is added to form pellets. Pellets are more expensive but easier to use and eliminate the dust problem of granular lime. Pellets dissolve in water so it's important to water thoroughly after application. Calcitic lime also contains calcium, a necessary element to encourage healthy plant growth. Calcitic lime is most often applied to lawns but may also benefit garden plants, shrubs and flowers.Dolomitic Lime: Dolomitic lime is mined in the same manner as calcitic lime and is also crushed and sold in either finely ground powder form or pellets. Dolomitic lime provides both calcium and magnesium. Dolomitic lime is most often applied to lawns but may also benefit garden plants, shrubs and flowers.

Right....you can spend years trying to rebalance what the trees did, or you can get topsoil in to speed the process up. By our estimation it would have taken 3-4 years of treatments to get the existing soil to where it was viable. We didn't want to wait that long.

Yep - I know if I want to fix this - I need to really tear up the place and come drop 4 inches of top soil. Just don't feel like it. I posted pics before but my yard is not awful, just gets thin and harder to really get it plush any more. I'm surrounded by woods etc etc. I know my ph is off because Iam getting moss. Anyway that's where I'm at. I stopped renting a seeder because it just wasn't mattering anymore so I do it by hand and rank - I'll probably get it tested again this spring

I'm with ya. I had pretty much all clay to start with in spring of 2008 and it's just now getting to where I have decent, thick grass coming in.

 

[rascal]

Buying a house that has several pine trees in the backyard which has resulted in bare ground for a large portion of the yard. Once I remove the trees, what should I do to get a nice green lawn next spring/summer?

Pine Needles provide a ton of acid which is very bad for grass.Getting rid of the trees is great.Next step is to get the soil more balanced. You can do this by adding lime to the soil after you have removed all needles from the surface.By the time the fall comes around, dig up the area you want to fix at least three inches deep and then seed as you normally would. Things should look better this fall and wonderful next spring.

Do I need to put in new soil?

no you shouldn't have to. Just need to rebalance it.

You can get your soil tested. I have been fighting for years now (new development, wooded area) - I don't have enough top soil and too many trees. Anyway get your ph checked because putting down the wrong lime could make it worseCalcitic Lime: Mined from natural limestone, calcitic lime is then crushed up into finely ground powder granules. Pelletized lime is created from finely ground lime plus a cementing agent that is added to form pellets. Pellets are more expensive but easier to use and eliminate the dust problem of granular lime. Pellets dissolve in water so it's important to water thoroughly after application. Calcitic lime also contains calcium, a necessary element to encourage healthy plant growth. Calcitic lime is most often applied to lawns but may also benefit garden plants, shrubs and flowers.Dolomitic Lime: Dolomitic lime is mined in the same manner as calcitic lime and is also crushed and sold in either finely ground powder form or pellets. Dolomitic lime provides both calcium and magnesium. Dolomitic lime is most often applied to lawns but may also benefit garden plants, shrubs and flowers.

This is a good point. If you don't have enough top soil, then growing grass even with the trees gone is going to be hard. If you don't mind the added cost, you can add 3 inches of top soil to where you want to seed to make things easier for yourself.

Well I have a clay where there is no grass, and probably clay where there is grass...freaking oklahoma.Because of that I think I need to remove the top layer and then put down top soil. Do I need to do the lime if I'm replacing the soil? Where can I get a ph test?Next question...around the base of the trees...what should I put down? I don't want plain dirt, and I'm guessing mulch isn't good for it.

 

[belljr]

Buying a house that has several pine trees in the backyard which has resulted in bare ground for a large portion of the yard. Once I remove the trees, what should I do to get a nice green lawn next spring/summer?

Pine Needles provide a ton of acid which is very bad for grass.Getting rid of the trees is great.Next step is to get the soil more balanced. You can do this by adding lime to the soil after you have removed all needles from the surface.By the time the fall comes around, dig up the area you want to fix at least three inches deep and then seed as you normally would. Things should look better this fall and wonderful next spring.

Do I need to put in new soil?

no you shouldn't have to. Just need to rebalance it.

You can get your soil tested. I have been fighting for years now (new development, wooded area) - I don't have enough top soil and too many trees. Anyway get your ph checked because putting down the wrong lime could make it worseCalcitic Lime: Mined from natural limestone, calcitic lime is then crushed up into finely ground powder granules. Pelletized lime is created from finely ground lime plus a cementing agent that is added to form pellets. Pellets are more expensive but easier to use and eliminate the dust problem of granular lime. Pellets dissolve in water so it's important to water thoroughly after application. Calcitic lime also contains calcium, a necessary element to encourage healthy plant growth. Calcitic lime is most often applied to lawns but may also benefit garden plants, shrubs and flowers.Dolomitic Lime: Dolomitic lime is mined in the same manner as calcitic lime and is also crushed and sold in either finely ground powder form or pellets. Dolomitic lime provides both calcium and magnesium. Dolomitic lime is most often applied to lawns but may also benefit garden plants, shrubs and flowers.

This is a good point. If you don't have enough top soil, then growing grass even with the trees gone is going to be hard. If you don't mind the added cost, you can add 3 inches of top soil to where you want to seed to make things easier for yourself.

Well I have a clay where there is no grass, and probably clay where there is grass...freaking oklahoma.Because of that I think I need to remove the top layer and then put down top soil. Do I need to do the lime if I'm replacing the soil? Where can I get a ph test?Next question...around the base of the trees...what should I put down? I don't want plain dirt, and I'm guessing mulch isn't good for it.

Around the existing trees? I would dig down about an inch around it and put in peat moss. Nothing wrong with having dirt or grass around it. Mulch won't hurt anything either if it's a little enough.

 

[shuke]

My lawn has more weeds compared to my neighbors. I think I live in a TruGreen neighborhood. I bought a large bag of Scott's Weed and Feed to try and get a hold on my weeds. Is it too early to put down? I'm in the mid-atlantic area.

I am not in your area of the country so I am not sure but for here in New England that is way way too early for a weed and feed. The weed and feeds typically target broadleef weeds and they are best to kill when they are actively growing.

Here in New England I would not put down a weed and feed until the mid to late May time frame (depending upon weed activity).

Thanks. So is there something else I can put down now to try and kill off some of these weeds? If I spend much more on different products, it may be more cost effective to go with a couple applications of TruGreen next year.

Put down Scotts with Halts right now. Then spray already existing weeds with this.

How's this stuff in planting beds around plants/flowers etc?

I wouldn't as the label instructs not to mow for 1-2 days after application and not to spread clippings from the first 3 mowings as mulch in flower beds, ornamentals, etc. Product Label

That's why I asked. Needed the sanity check. Anyone have a good spray for weeds in planting beds?

Just pull them.

 

[shuke]

Mowed, trimmed and put down Scotts Turf Builder w/ the weed control. Home Depot was out of the crabgrass preventer, but I dont really have a crabgrass problem. I'm overrun with clover and another large patch of another type of stuff that I've never noticed before. It's lighter green and has these random purple blooms on them. Any ideas as to what they are?

Oxalis?

 

[The Commish]

My lawn has more weeds compared to my neighbors. I think I live in a TruGreen neighborhood. I bought a large bag of Scott's Weed and Feed to try and get a hold on my weeds. Is it too early to put down? I'm in the mid-atlantic area.

I am not in your area of the country so I am not sure but for here in New England that is way way too early for a weed and feed. The weed and feeds typically target broadleef weeds and they are best to kill when they are actively growing.

Here in New England I would not put down a weed and feed until the mid to late May time frame (depending upon weed activity).

Thanks. So is there something else I can put down now to try and kill off some of these weeds? If I spend much more on different products, it may be more cost effective to go with a couple applications of TruGreen next year.

Put down Scotts with Halts right now. Then spray already existing weeds with this.

How's this stuff in planting beds around plants/flowers etc?

I wouldn't as the label instructs not to mow for 1-2 days after application and not to spread clippings from the first 3 mowings as mulch in flower beds, ornamentals, etc. Product Label

That's why I asked. Needed the sanity check. Anyone have a good spray for weeds in planting beds?

Just pull them.

Seems like an exercise in futility. I can't ever seem to get the whole root.

 

[shuke]

Next question...around the base of the trees...what should I put down? I don't want plain dirt, and I'm guessing mulch isn't good for it.

Why wouldn't mulch be "good" for it? Pine needles act as a natural mulch anyway. If you want a decorative mulch that would be fine, just pick something that will mix in the same color as dead pine needles.Or am I misunderstanding?

 

[shuke]

My lawn has more weeds compared to my neighbors. I think I live in a TruGreen neighborhood. I bought a large bag of Scott's Weed and Feed to try and get a hold on my weeds. Is it too early to put down? I'm in the mid-atlantic area.

I am not in your area of the country so I am not sure but for here in New England that is way way too early for a weed and feed. The weed and feeds typically target broadleef weeds and they are best to kill when they are actively growing.

Here in New England I would not put down a weed and feed until the mid to late May time frame (depending upon weed activity).

Thanks. So is there something else I can put down now to try and kill off some of these weeds? If I spend much more on different products, it may be more cost effective to go with a couple applications of TruGreen next year.

Put down Scotts with Halts right now. Then spray already existing weeds with this.

How's this stuff in planting beds around plants/flowers etc?

I wouldn't as the label instructs not to mow for 1-2 days after application and not to spread clippings from the first 3 mowings as mulch in flower beds, ornamentals, etc. Product Label

That's why I asked. Needed the sanity check. Anyone have a good spray for weeds in planting beds?

Just pull them.

Seems like an exercise in futility. I can't ever seem to get the whole root.

You need more mulch then.No way would I spray any type of weed killer near a planting bed.

 

[The Commish]

My lawn has more weeds compared to my neighbors. I think I live in a TruGreen neighborhood. I bought a large bag of Scott's Weed and Feed to try and get a hold on my weeds. Is it too early to put down? I'm in the mid-atlantic area.

I am not in your area of the country so I am not sure but for here in New England that is way way too early for a weed and feed. The weed and feeds typically target broadleef weeds and they are best to kill when they are actively growing.

Here in New England I would not put down a weed and feed until the mid to late May time frame (depending upon weed activity).

Thanks. So is there something else I can put down now to try and kill off some of these weeds? If I spend much more on different products, it may be more cost effective to go with a couple applications of TruGreen next year.

Put down Scotts with Halts right now. Then spray already existing weeds with this.

How's this stuff in planting beds around plants/flowers etc?

I wouldn't as the label instructs not to mow for 1-2 days after application and not to spread clippings from the first 3 mowings as mulch in flower beds, ornamentals, etc. Product Label

That's why I asked. Needed the sanity check. Anyone have a good spray for weeds in planting beds?

Just pull them.

Seems like an exercise in futility. I can't ever seem to get the whole root.

You need more mulch then.No way would I spray any type of weed killer near a planting bed.

Right....This stuff is out of sight because when I mulch I don't mulch everything every year. Mulch goes around all the bushes, plants etc every year, but if there is space behind a hedge, I don't usually mulch that every year. Basically, I waited a year too long and got weeds in those areas and they are beginning to spread, so I want to kill them off and do a full mulch this year.

 

[shuke]

Right....This stuff is out of sight because when I mulch I don't mulch everything every year. Mulch goes around all the bushes, plants etc every year, but if there is space behind a hedge, I don't usually mulch that every year. Basically, I waited a year too long and got weeds in those areas and they are beginning to spread, so I want to kill them off and do a full mulch this year.

Just pull, mulch, then put down this preemergent.. I've read about people applying weed killer to individual plants with a small paint brush to avoid damage to nearby plants, but I personally think that's overkill.

 

[fasteddie_21]

for when we move into a house later this year.

 

[jason12vb]

Planning on biting the bullet and buying a couple of hoses today. The ones my association provide me are a PITA.

Recommendations? These things aren't all that cheap and I'd like to get something that lasts.

 

[Tusken Raider]

Mowed, trimmed and put down Scotts Turf Builder w/ the weed control. Home Depot was out of the crabgrass preventer, but I dont really have a crabgrass problem. I'm overrun with clover and another large patch of another type of stuff that I've never noticed before. It's lighter green and has these random purple blooms on them. Any ideas as to what they are?

Might be henbit. The warm winter really got me. My Bermuda lawn was ate up with the Henbit. Now just poa for the most part.

I fight with Henbit every spring. It looks like crap when it's growing in dormant bermuda, but you can take it out with an herbicide once it sprouts. Otherwise, preemergence seems to hold it back some.

 

[BigJohn]

Mowed, trimmed and put down Scotts Turf Builder w/ the weed control. Home Depot was out of the crabgrass preventer, but I dont really have a crabgrass problem. I'm overrun with clover and another large patch of another type of stuff that I've never noticed before. It's lighter green and has these random purple blooms on them. Any ideas as to what they are?

Might be henbit. The warm winter really got me. My Bermuda lawn was ate up with the Henbit. Now just poa for the most part.

I fight with Henbit every spring. It looks like crap when it's growing in dormant bermuda, but you can take it out with an herbicide once it sprouts. Otherwise, preemergence seems to hold it back some.

This and this is what I'm dealing with. Doesn't appear to be henbit, but I can't really find anything else either.

 

[shuke]

Planning on biting the bullet and buying a couple of hoses today. The ones my association provide me are a PITA.Recommendations? These things aren't all that cheap and I'd like to get something that lasts.

I got a good reinforced one at Sears that has held up. It's a thick black rubber.

 

[BigJohn]

Planning on biting the bullet and buying a couple of hoses today. The ones my association provide me are a PITA.

Recommendations? These things aren't all that cheap and I'd like to get something that lasts.

I got a good reinforced one at Sears that has held up. It's a thick black rubber.

 

[bushdocda]

Any guesses on a kind of weed or grass I have popping up that looks a lot like rosemary. Singular stem with like spike type leaves. At the base it is sort of a bushy clovering mass?

I'm in MD for reference if it is helpful. Mild winter has my weeds thriving.

 

[shuke]

Not sure I get the need to identify by name all the individual weeds. Unless there a number weedkillers out there that are targeted to specific weeds.

The only thing I've seen is an Ortho product that is for clover, chickweed, oxalis, creeping charlie and other really tough weeds. However, this stuff tough on surrounding grass.

 

[Pick]

I'm sure it's been said but didn't want to read through the whole thread. We've had issues with dandilions at two homes. Finally tried the ortho weed-b-gone spray at home depot that you hook up to your hose. Holy cow they are gone within days and haven't seen them since. I've never tried those hose sprays but I'm a believer now.

 

[Eviloutsider]

The tip I took was to hire a professional service. It has worked great.

To be fair, the six treatments cost me $127. Once I factor in the cost of fertilizer and the weed treatments that I did, it wasn't all that much different.

 

[Pick]

Getting grass out of the flower bed?

 

[shuke]

I'm sure it's been said but didn't want to read through the whole thread. We've had issues with dandilions at two homes. Finally tried the ortho weed-b-gone spray at home depot that you hook up to your hose. Holy cow they are gone within days and haven't seen them since. I've never tried those hose sprays but I'm a believer now.

To be fair, dandelions are about the easiest weed to kill. Just about anything you buy should work.

 

[shuke]

Getting grass out of the flower bed?

Edge regularly and pull any stray clumps.

 

[belljr]

My grass was pretty good this year except I have random spots tha just won't grow grass. I mean nothing I do will it grow. I think it's tree roots

 

[Pick]

I'm sure it's been said but didn't want to read through the whole thread. We've had issues with dandilions at two homes. Finally tried the ortho weed-b-gone spray at home depot that you hook up to your hose. Holy cow they are gone within days and haven't seen them since. I've never tried those hose sprays but I'm a believer now.

To be fair, dandelions are about the easiest weed to kill. Just about anything you buy should work.