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Lawn Care Tips (3 Viewers)

Late to the party here, so I am sure this has been answered. Headed to Lowes in a bit, best weed and feed type product for a small front and back yards. Brand? Pellet? Spray? Etc. 

 
Beef Ravioli said:
Late to the party here, so I am sure this has been answered. Headed to Lowes in a bit, best weed and feed type product for a small front and back yards. Brand? Pellet? Spray? Etc. 
Click to expand...
Best fertilizer with pre-emergent weed preventer is Scotts Turf Builder with Halts.  

If you already have weeds, also get Bayer weed/crabgrass killer for lawns concentrate and a one or two gallon sprayer.

 
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shuke said:
Best fertilizer with pre-emergent weed preventer is Scotts Turf Builder with Halts.  

If you already have weeds, also get Bayer weed/crabgrass killer for lawns concentrate and a one or two gallon sprayer.
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Use each product at the same time or use one at one point and then wait a period of time (day, week?) and then the other product?

 
Beef Ravioli said:
Use each product at the same time or use one at one point and then wait a period of time (day, week?) and then the other product?
Click to expand...
You can use them at the same time.  They serve different purposes.  One is preventative and the other is to address the weeds that are there.

 
My lawn looks like crap. 

I aspire to not having the best lawn on the block, but not the worst ever.  I seek mediocrity.  That said, my neighbor has lawn service and irrigation which shines a spotlight on my crummy lawn.  Any thoughts on best next steps?  Water? Fertilizer? Thatch? De-aerate? Crabgrass stuff? 

I laid down seed a couple of weeks ago. 

 
shuke said:
Best fertilizer with pre-emergent weed preventer is Scotts Turf Builder with Halts.  

If you already have weeds, also get Bayer weed/crabgrass killer for lawns concentrate and a one or two gallon sprayer.
Click to expand...
XLR8 is another good option for killing existing crabgrass.

 
Brony said:
My lawn looks like crap. 

I aspire to not having the best lawn on the block, but not the worst ever.  I seek mediocrity.  That said, my neighbor has lawn service and irrigation which shines a spotlight on my crummy lawn.  Any thoughts on best next steps?  Water? Fertilizer? Thatch? De-aerate? Crabgrass stuff? 

I laid down seed a couple of weeks ago. 
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Oh, this is easy.  In the fall, aerate the yard, REALLY aerate the relatively bare spots and seed the crap out of it....maybe even throw down some top soil on top if the bar spots.  Until then, manage weeds with treatment and mow regularly.  Construction destroyed our yard last year and the sod they laid (because of timing) ended up dying off because of brown patch, so last fall I had a completely dirt front yard.  We aerated the crap out of the yard and dumped an entire 50 lbs bag of seed on the front (about .3 acres).

This spring, the yard looked similar to what you have now.  I then focused on the bare areas, aerated the crap out of the areas, dumped seed and top soil on top if it and it's coming in pretty nicely.  By the fall, it should be all set....just in time for the new owner to take over :wall:  

 
The Commish said:
Oh, this is easy.  In the fall, aerate the yard, REALLY aerate the relatively bare spots and seed the crap out of it....maybe even throw down some top soil on top if the bar spots.  Until then, manage weeds with treatment and mow regularly.  Construction destroyed our yard last year and the sod they laid (because of timing) ended up dying off because of brown patch, so last fall I had a completely dirt front yard.  We aerated the crap out of the yard and dumped an entire 50 lbs bag of seed on the front (about .3 acres).

This spring, the yard looked similar to what you have now.  I then focused on the bare areas, aerated the crap out of the areas, dumped seed and top soil on top if it and it's coming in pretty nicely.  By the fall, it should be all set....just in time for the new owner to take over :wall:  
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Should I aerate a couple of areas now just to see what happens, or hobble along for this summer and get to work in the fall? 

 
Brony said:
Should I aerate a couple of areas now just to see what happens, or hobble along for this summer and get to work in the fall? 
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I don't know where you are.  Down here in the south it's probably going to be tough to keep enough water on it to make a big difference.  If you're up north, it might be worth a shot.  I usually stop trying to germinate seed when the nights get consistently about 50 degrees.  

 
The Commish said:
I don't know where you are.  Down here in the south it's probably going to be tough to keep enough water on it to make a big difference.  If you're up north, it might be worth a shot.  I usually stop trying to germinate seed when the nights get consistently about 50 degrees.  
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thanks much for your thought on this btw! 

I'm in the midwest.  

 
Brony said:
thanks much for your thought on this btw! 

I'm in the midwest.  
Click to expand...
Might be worth a shot if the nights are still getting pretty cool (low 50s, high 40s).  When we lived in Cincy, I was doing this sort of thing until the beginning of May...worth a shot.

 
Brony said:
My lawn looks like crap. 

I aspire to not having the best lawn on the block, but not the worst ever.  I seek mediocrity.  That said, my neighbor has lawn service and irrigation which shines a spotlight on my crummy lawn.  Any thoughts on best next steps?  Water? Fertilizer? Thatch? De-aerate? Crabgrass stuff? 

I laid down seed a couple of weeks ago. 
Click to expand...
My lawn is/was similar.  I laid fescue seed about 10 days ago and have been watering 1-2x day.  Just got seedlings to start popping up this morning.  My father in law was able to plant grass into May last year.  We should have a similar climate to you (NE Kansas).  

I used a manual aerator, spread seed and a starter fertilizer, and raked it around.  

Hoping I don't screw it up at this point.  

 
Why are we talking about aerating and seeding?  What good does it do for those seeds to germinate 2 inches below the surface?

For seeding, you need to rake up the soil and add some organic soil to it and rake in the seed.

 
shuke said:
Why are we talking about aerating and seeding?  What good does it do for those seeds to germinate 2 inches below the surface?

For seeding, you need to rake up the soil and add some organic soil to it and rake in the seed.
Click to expand...
We use this approach down here primarily because of our soil.  It's really not soil, it's clay.  Anything for us to be able to encourage deep root growth we do.  Poking holes in the ground before throwing the seed down helps a ton.  If we don't do that, the seed just washes away.  There is no raking this stuff.  If one wants surface growth of their grass and the top soil holds moisture well enough, you can forego the aerating.  That's really not an option here.  The top inch to inch and a half holds virtually no water....have to dig deeper.

 
The Commish said:
We use this approach down here primarily because of our soil.  It's really not soil, it's clay.  Anything for us to be able to encourage deep root growth we do.  Poking holes in the ground before throwing the seed down helps a ton.  If we don't do that, the seed just washes away.  There is no raking this stuff.  If one wants surface growth of their grass and the top soil holds moisture well enough, you can forego the aerating.  That's really not an option here.  The top inch to inch and a half holds virtually no water....have to dig deeper.
Click to expand...
I understand about aerating, I have clay too.  I just can't imagine it's very effective for seeding.  Maybe what is happening is that the cores are breaking up and the grass you are getting to grow are from the seeds that are not in the holes.

 
shuke said:
I understand about aerating, I have clay too.  I just can't imagine it's very effective for seeding.  Maybe what is happening is that the cores are breaking up and the grass you are getting to grow are from the seeds that are not in the holes.
Click to expand...
Here, grass grows up out of the holes....In bare spots where it's just holes, there's on average 5-6 blades coming out of the holes which means 2-3 seeds took root.  Any time I do a bare spot it looks like a science experiment.  Those areas are always more strong over time than the ones I throw the seed down and rake it in.  I usually do the seed and rake method when something's been dug up in the yard etc.  Those areas always die off in extreme heat.

 
The Commish said:
Oh, this is easy.  In the fall, aerate the yard, REALLY aerate the relatively bare spots and seed the crap out of it....maybe even throw down some top soil on top if the bar spots.  Until then, manage weeds with treatment and mow regularly.  Construction destroyed our yard last year and the sod they laid (because of timing) ended up dying off because of brown patch, so last fall I had a completely dirt front yard.  We aerated the crap out of the yard and dumped an entire 50 lbs bag of seed on the front (about .3 acres).

This spring, the yard looked similar to what you have now.  I then focused on the bare areas, aerated the crap out of the areas, dumped seed and top soil on top if it and it's coming in pretty nicely.  By the fall, it should be all set....just in time for the new owner to take over :wall:  
Click to expand...
Can I ask a dumb question?  Is there a way to aerate without renting the machine from HD? :bag:   Is there like an inexpensive tool or something I can buy?

 
Just rent one for like $50.  Only need to do it every couple years.  Or pay someone to do it.  NTTAWWT.

 
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shuke said:
Just rent one for like $50.  Only need to do it every couple years.  Or pay someone to do it.  NTTAWWT.
Click to expand...
Well, I don't need to do the whole yard.  Maybe you can assist.  We had moles over a year ago that started digging up the new backyard we put in.  When they did that, they would churn all the fill dirt/crap dirt from the bottom and it settled on the top creating some really hard, bare spots.  I want to churn those spots up, add in good soil, seed and then cover with peat moss.  I was thinking that aeration tool would be pretty good, but maybe not?

 
General Malaise said:
Well, I don't need to do the whole yard.  Maybe you can assist.  We had moles over a year ago that started digging up the new backyard we put in.  When they did that, they would churn all the fill dirt/crap dirt from the bottom and it settled on the top creating some really hard, bare spots.  I want to churn those spots up, add in good soil, seed and then cover with peat moss.  I was thinking that aeration tool would be pretty good, but maybe not?
Click to expand...
If you want to churn, then churn!

 
Brony said:
Should I aerate a couple of areas now just to see what happens, or hobble along for this summer and get to work in the fall? 
Click to expand...
No harm.   Just throw some seed down, rake it in so you get some good soil contact and keep it watered for a few weeks.    You'll definitely get some of it to take.   This is of course provided you haven't put down any crabgrass herbicide yet.

 
General Malaise said:
Do you guys use peat moss to cover areas you are trying to repair?  
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I always apply a very light layer of it on new seed.  I really don't know if it makes a huge difference, but it certainly doesn't seem to hurt and it is relatively cheap.  The only suggestion I have would be to not apply it to heavily.

 
Brony said:
My lawn looks like crap. 

I aspire to not having the best lawn on the block, but not the worst ever.  I seek mediocrity.  That said, my neighbor has lawn service and irrigation which shines a spotlight on my crummy lawn.  Any thoughts on best next steps?  Water? Fertilizer? Thatch? De-aerate? Crabgrass stuff? 

I laid down seed a couple of weeks ago. 
Click to expand...
If you want to be sure what the problem is get a soil test.

If you want to take some simple steps likely to help quite a bit...

Put down starter fertilizer (https://www.menards.com/main/outdoors/gardening/lawn-plant-care/lawn-fertilizers/menards-reg-premium-starter-lawn-fertilizer/p-1444429569300.htm) and Milorganite (https://www.menards.com/main/outdoors/gardening/lawn-plant-care/lawn-fertilizers/milorganite-organic-nitrogen-lawn-fertilizer-2-500-sq-ft/p-1444451515524-c-1463608034795.htm?tid=1178584996911320530) at the recommended rate on the bag ASAP.  Start mowing 3"+ and more often; then report back in 3-4 weeks.

 
Any tips for a DIY solution to repair a yard after moles turned it into their playground last summer? 

 I can patch and get grass to cover the countless bare areas, but cutting the lawn is like off-roading thanks to the numerous divots and mounds from both moles and having to take trees down that now grace my landscape. I need to find a leveling solution. I know they have the drums you fill with water and tow behind a mower. Anyone had success, or know of a better option? Lawn is terrible so the option of regrading may be in play, but I'm not sure how costly that would be. I'm on a really tight budget, but don't want to waste money attempting to fix an unfixable situation. Talking roughly 1/3 acre on a slope.

Lawn itself save for the side yard towards one neighbor is absolute trash. Clover, dandelion, those stupid purple flowers, thin grass, patchy grass, you name it I got it. I'm going to try and make the front yard look decent, and work my way back (moles are primarily in backyard).

So far, the front yard has gotten a dose of weed and feed and a treatment of grub/pest control. I'll be hitting the backyard with the grub/pest control this weekend. 

Thanks, I'll hang up and listen.

 
odin33 said:
Any tips for a DIY solution to repair a yard after moles turned it into their playground last summer? 

 I can patch and get grass to cover the countless bare areas, but cutting the lawn is like off-roading thanks to the numerous divots and mounds from both moles and having to take trees down that now grace my landscape. I need to find a leveling solution. I know they have the drums you fill with water and tow behind a mower. Anyone had success, or know of a better option? Lawn is terrible so the option of regrading may be in play, but I'm not sure how costly that would be. I'm on a really tight budget, but don't want to waste money attempting to fix an unfixable situation. Talking roughly 1/3 acre on a slope.

Lawn itself save for the side yard towards one neighbor is absolute trash. Clover, dandelion, those stupid purple flowers, thin grass, patchy grass, you name it I got it. I'm going to try and make the front yard look decent, and work my way back (moles are primarily in backyard).

So far, the front yard has gotten a dose of weed and feed and a treatment of grub/pest control. I'll be hitting the backyard with the grub/pest control this weekend. 

Thanks, I'll hang up and listen.
Click to expand...
Did you get rid of the moles?  We had success with these.  

 
I haven't seen anything yet this year and I caught a couple last year, but I'm guessing they're still there. My lawn is the worst kept of the 5 on my drive. Most others have a service and I know I have grubs, so my plan is to treat for the grubs, watch, and then hopefully start repairing the lawn.

Wife runs a daycare out of the home so treating the lawn, and having any kind of open spear type contraption in the yard is a concern. Had one like mole trap but it was useless. I'll take a look to see if I can find those stakes. Seems like a decent option.

 
I'm digging this battery powered bayer advanced sprayer.    Depending on how well this does, I might skip the scotts weed and feed and just do the feed with weekly spot treatments of bayer advanced.   

 
Not sure what happened, but what was my poor attempt at a yard has horribly failed.  Only thing growing is the weeds that my weed/feed didn't kill.

 
Just laid down Scott's step 1(crabgrass and lawn food). 

Did I lose my window to aerate and lay New seed down?  If so when would be my next window?  

Step 2 is due to be put down in 4 weeks.  

 
MattFancy said:
I would wait and just aerate and seed in the fall
Click to expand...
x2.

You could do it now, but the risk you always run planting in the spring is that if you can't water it, a drought can kill it all making your time and investment worthless.  The odds of a drought in the fall are a lot less likely, meaning you basically get the fall growing season, AND the following spring season before the dry months come.

 
harryhood said:
Just laid down Scott's step 1(crabgrass and lawn food). 

Did I lose my window to aerate and lay New seed down?  If so when would be my next window?  

Step 2 is due to be put down in 4 weeks.  
Click to expand...
Don't aerate now, as you will be disrupting the Halts barrier.

Seed in the fall.

 
odin33 said:
I haven't seen anything yet this year and I caught a couple last year, but I'm guessing they're still there. My lawn is the worst kept of the 5 on my drive. Most others have a service and I know I have grubs, so my plan is to treat for the grubs, watch, and then hopefully start repairing the lawn.

Wife runs a daycare out of the home so treating the lawn, and having any kind of open spear type contraption in the yard is a concern. Had one like mole trap but it was useless. I'll take a look to see if I can find those stakes. Seems like a decent option.
Click to expand...
I got a pack of gummy worms from Tomcat. You poke a hole in the top of the tunnel and drop an irresistible poisonous gummy worm down into the hole for them to enjoy. Think it worked for me.

My yard is so lumpy it destroyed my push mower. Ive been trying to 3 weeks to get someone out to roll my yard. 

 
Thanks for the suggestion. Looks like rolling the yard is my only option if I don;t want to go off-roading while mowing.

 
harryhood said:
Just laid down Scott's step 1(crabgrass and lawn food). 

Did I lose my window to aerate and lay New seed down?  If so when would be my next window?  

Step 2 is due to be put down in 4 weeks.  
Click to expand...
Pretty much.   The crabgrass killer will prevent any seed growth for about 4 months according to Scotts.

 
I just paid $170 for a garden hose reel.  Basically, I'm sick and tired of getting drenched by leaky fittings on crappy hose reels, so I bought the best one I could find.  Last year I had to drag a hose out every few days to try and keep a newly planted tree from drying out in the drought we had in NJ, and after about the 3rd time I got my work gloves and boots soaked, I gave up.  I'll report back on whether it was a waste of money or not...

 
I live in South Texas. Half our yard is Zoysia with the rest being St. Augustine that is coming in from all our neighbors. My wife prefers the St. Aug so no worries.

We don't have many weeds, but do have some clover and a couple patches of CrabGrass coming up. I also don't think the yard has ever been aerated (10 yrs old) or de-thatched. I did spray some RoundUp weed and feed stuff about 2 months ago.

Is it too late to de-thatch and/or aerate? Which one is preferred? Should I do CrabGrass ASAP and aerate next year?

Some things I have read is that it is important to scalp your yard as well.

We moved in about 18 months ago and overall our yard is pretty (95%) great, so help me not screw it up!

 
AC05 said:
I live in South Texas. Half our yard is Zoysia with the rest being St. Augustine that is coming in from all our neighbors. My wife prefers the St. Aug so no worries.

We don't have many weeds, but do have some clover and a couple patches of CrabGrass coming up. I also don't think the yard has ever been aerated (10 yrs old) or de-thatched. I did spray some RoundUp weed and feed stuff about 2 months ago.

Is it too late to de-thatch and/or aerate? Which one is preferred? Should I do CrabGrass ASAP and aerate next year?

Some things I have read is that it is important to scalp your yard as well.

We moved in about 18 months ago and overall our yard is pretty (95%) great, so help me not screw it up!
Click to expand...
Never dealt with these warm climate grasses, but up here we yankees are NOT supposed to scalp the yard.  Mow it high, mow it often.

 
Fat Nick said:
I just paid $170 for a garden hose reel.  Basically, I'm sick and tired of getting drenched by leaky fittings on crappy hose reels, so I bought the best one I could find.  Last year I had to drag a hose out every few days to try and keep a newly planted tree from drying out in the drought we had in NJ, and after about the 3rd time I got my work gloves and boots soaked, I gave up.  I'll report back on whether it was a waste of money or not...
Click to expand...
So the hose reel just came.  Dang impressive.  I'm not sure if I'm more impressed with the reel or the quick-connect adapters that were the freebie with the order.

My biggest issue with hose reels are that they leak, and that in order to keep them from leaking.  The only way to keep them from leaking is to put some silicone tape on the threads and tighten them down pretty tight, which means the wife can't change attachments w/o quick-disconnects...and most quick disconnects completely suck and either leak themselves or severely restrict water flow.

Well - the ones from Eley are HUGE, cast brass, and have an input/output hole as big (maybe bigger) than my hose, so no flow loss.  They're also really bulky which means they're easier to use.  Highly impressed.  I've got a 2nd set coming as a freebie with my accessories order.  Excited to get that set up this weekend so I can water my lawn easier in the event of a drought this summer.

 
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