ST. LOUIS — Eat your yard. Some young, enterprising St. Louisans are banking on it.
A handful of area farmers and landscape designers have tapped into the growing appetite for fresh, garden-grown produce by launching businesses that build vegetable gardens and transform urban and suburban yards into edible landscapes.
"We're urban farmers for the people who don't have the know-how or the time to grow their own produce," explained Marsha Giambalvo, who co-launched Backdoor Harvest last year. "We install and maintain and harvest gardens for people."
In the past two years, the number of Americans growing vegetables has shot upward. Seed companies have reported sales besting anything in recent decades. But as interest in backyard vegetable gardening has grown, sometimes the gardens themselves have not. At least not very well.
That's where these new enterprises step in. Chris Olliges, 25, a Kentucky native who moved to St. Louis for college, has been working at New Roots Urban Farm in north St. Louis for four years. He sensed that people were looking for guidance.
"There's a growing interest in growing your own food in the city, and people were coming to us for consulting," Olliges said. "They're progressive and into the food system. ... But they're working full-time."
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Olliges put up a few fliers last fall, and now that the soil is warming and spring is on its way, the phone is starting to ring. As of now he has only a handful of clients, but his business, Edible Urban Designs, is young — and in a young field that's expanding as it captures the grow-your-own zeitgeist.
Colin McCrate was one of the first people in the country to see the opportunities in growing food for people on their urban and suburban plots. When McCrate, 31, an urban farmer from Seattle, launched Seattle Urban Farm Co. in 2007 there were no templates for the business.
"Back then, there were hardly any models to look for," McCrate said. "I wanted to figure out a way I could make a living."
And he quickly did. Seattle Urban Farm planted 30 gardens in the first year, and has put in 200 to date.
"We've gotten busier ever year," McCrate said. "It's hard to say if it's because of interest in our business or exposure to the idea. Three years ago people just didn't know this service was there."
Now, as the grandfather of the business, McCrate gets calls from budding vegetable garden installers and edible landscapers all over the country.
"It's been kind of crazy to see how fast this could happen," he said. "... It's cool how many people have said, 'I live in Mississippi, or Florida; how do I do this?'"
Some of these companies design, install, maintain and harvest gardens, putting a basket of fresh produce on clients' tables each week. Others just do the initial start-up. Most offer a combination to suit their clients.
"We tweak it as it goes," Giambalvo said.
For many people, the decision to grow food is motivated by the economy or the spike in food costs. For some, concerns over food safety are the motivation. But for many, the motivation stems from worries over the environmental impact of a globalized food system and large-scale agriculture. Now, in urban and suburban areas, people who are two or three generations removed from farm life say they are trying to reclaim the food system.
"People are taking matters into their owns hands," said Gwenne Hayes Stewart, director of Gateway Greening, which oversees about 180 community gardens throughout the city.
An idealism guides this new generation of small-scale farmers and entrepreneurs who are not only trying to make a living, but are working to get food to low-income areas where access to fresh food is chronically limited and poorly stocked corner stores and fast food restaurants are often the only food options.
Washington University's School of Architecture just launched a landscape architecture program, and although the school does not have a formal edible landscape curriculum, teachers there expect to offer more seminars on the subject to meet student demand.
"Without question it's a topic that's received quite a bit of attention," said Don Koster, a senior lecturer, who explained that more students were doing final projects on urban agriculture and issues related to food inequity.
Shannon Connelly launched her company, My Backyard Market, last year to design, build, maintain and harvest her St. Louis area clients' residential produce gardens. But Connelly, like the other start-ups, also consults with churches and community centers to help them set up gardens, sometimes in vacant lots, and spread the gospel of home grown.
"Our goal from the beginning has always been to support under-served neighborhoods," Connelly says. "We're hoping that those people will take the skills they learn and bring them home."
Giambalvo, and her partner Melissa Mohr, have also added a little twist to their model: They ask clients to participate in a crop-sharing program, which takes a portion of each garden's harvest and sells it to people who may not have their own plots.
Giambalvo says the concept and the business of transforming yards into tomatoes and elderberry bushes is sprouting like weeds.
"We wound up doing 50 gardens," she said. "Our first year blew our socks off. We're booming."
As demand for edible gardens rises, Giambalvo and her fellow garden designers say they're hopeful their list of clients will get longer. The next frontier, many say, is edible landscapes in commercial settings.
"We have all these wonderful corporate parks that have vast tracts of land," said Hayes Stewart. "Wouldn't it be cool if they not only planted orchards, but encouraged their people to eat healthy food?"
These gardens could even provide an added source of income.
"The economics are changing in such a way that in the not-too-distant future, it will be a profitable commercial endeavor to incorporate these (gardens and orchards) into your office parks and hospitals," said Mary Francois Deweese, a landscape architect who specializes in edible and sustainable landscapes, and owner of Acorn Landscapes.
So far, Deweese said, she has had no commercial clients. But she said she believed it was only a matter of time.
"I'm seeing higher demand from people who want to grow their own food," Deweese said.
"But the opportunity for commercial development is just on the cusp of peoples' minds. That's the next big thing."