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Need advice about my Siberian Husky (1 Viewer)

Reegus

Footballguy
I have a six month old Siberian Husky who overall is well trained and very friendly. The only problem is she is very protective of her food and any bone she chews on. If you go near her while she has either she will stop eating/chewing and growl at you.

Does anyone have any advice on how to correct this behavior before it is to late and she ends up biting someone? Any advice would be appreciated.

 
A lot of dogs are this way.

Are you able to just train the humans around her to not approach her when she's eating?

Given the temperament of the dog otherwise, I don't think it's a big issue.

My dog is the same way, has never bitten anyone but you can't go near her when she's eating.

 
I have a six month old Siberian Husky who overall is well trained and very friendly. The only problem is she is very protective of her food and any bone she chews on. If you go near her while she has either she will stop eating/chewing and growl at you.

Does anyone have any advice on how to correct this behavior before it is to late and she ends up biting someone? Any advice would be appreciated.
Had this same exact issue with my Husky/Aussie mix. It took me about a week to break him of it. I am not a trainer and have zero clue if this is the correct way to do it, but it worked for me and we have had zero issues since.

First of all when I fed him I sat with him every single time. I made him sit at attention and put his food bowl in front of him and if he even motioned for it I removed it. When I started he would actually attack the bowl and knock the food all over the place before I could even remove it. So I then started him with a handful of food on the floor/crate. He would lunge for it and I would give the "no command" (we do not use the word NO, we use a sound) and cover the food with my hand. After many times at this he learned not to lunge. I slowly increased the time that he had to sit for me to uncover his food and would give him the "yes command" that he was now allowed to eat. Once I was happy with that length of time I introduced the bowl of food again and repeated the same process. This took about a week and he now eats freely with our other 3 dogs. I did the same thing with his toys and treats with the same result.

 
"Food guarding" is a totally natural behavior for dogs. It's an instinct that comes from the scarcity of food in the wild. Don't warn away others that want your food -- and you starve.

I don't recommend the laissez faire approach. It's probably ok, but it's also possible that someone will accidentally get too close to Sparky while he's chowing down someday and get a nasty surprise. You don't want that.

You can ward this off by teaching him/her that food isn't scarce, and humans are a good source of it, not a threat to it. Feed them a little bit at a time at dinnertime instead of a big bowlful. Stay nearby with tasty treats. When the little bit runs out, offer a treat, take the bowl, refill, repeat. She'll come to the conclusion that people reaching for her food is a rewarding, rather than a threatening thing.

You can break that down a lot further depending on how much resistance you encounter, but that's the basic idea: interrupt eating time with delicious treats and become your pup's mealtime pal.

Google "dog food guarding," or "dog growls while eating," some such and you should find a million little step-by-steps.

 
"Food guarding" is a totally natural behavior for dogs. It's an instinct that comes from the scarcity of food in the wild. Don't warn away others that want your food -- and you starve.

I don't recommend the laissez faire approach. It's probably ok, but it's also possible that someone will accidentally get too close to Sparky while he's chowing down someday and get a nasty surprise. You don't want that.

You can ward this off by teaching him/her that food isn't scarce, and humans are a good source of it, not a threat to it. Feed them a little bit at a time at dinnertime instead of a big bowlful. Stay nearby with tasty treats. When the little bit runs out, offer a treat, take the bowl, refill, repeat. She'll come to the conclusion that people reaching for her food is a rewarding, rather than a threatening thing.

You can break that down a lot further depending on how much resistance you encounter, but that's the basic idea: interrupt eating time with delicious treats and become your pup's mealtime pal.

Google "dog food guarding," or "dog growls while eating," some such and you should find a million little step-by-steps.
Ok that sounds good. She's not as bad about her food as she is with her bones. She is about 2-3x more defensive of her chewing bones.

 
I have had a Siberian husky for years and honestly never broke this. It's probably my own fault. In any case, he's very protective of his food despite being good natured otherwise. My other dog just learns to leave him alone, but it's harder with kids. We typically feed him outside if my daughter is home just so she isn't messing with him and getting growled at. Ours has never acted on it except with the other dog who can hold his own and didn't care that much. He seems nervously conflicted eating around us. I think the growling is probably part of the breed since they are territorial anyway and have a great grasp on what is "theirs" and what is not.

Good luck. I'm sure it's possible if you have the time and prioritize it.

 
I have a chocolate husky and she was protective of food when a puppy (less than a year old) and would growl. All I did was start putting my hand in her bowl when she was eating, if she growled at all I would grab her by the scruff of the neck and hold her up while I swirled my hand all around in her food.

She is a very smart dog and it only took me three times of doing this before she just ignores my hand/presence and trys to eat around the hand or just sits and waits for me to remove my hand from the bowl, but she never growls anymore and has never snapped at me.

I read up on huskys before we got here and they are very alpha oriented and will always test limits. There are a lot of dos and don'ts with them...IE: never let the husky go through a door or fence in front of you, never leave the toy with them when done playing, them pulling you when walking is acceptable since that is what they are bred to do (as long as they will still follow commands), etc. Our dog considers my wife and I alpha and she acts different towards us then my boys who she just considers playmates. I don't remember the websites I visited, this was several years ago, but I would suggest doing a google search and read up on huskys.

 
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She's young enough so this might still work. Try getting two high value bully sticks. Hold one in your hand and let her chew for a few minutes while u hold on to it. Then say drop it. And take it away and immediately offer her the other one. This trains them that when you take something away they're still getting something valuable in return. I've never wanted a dog that guards resources so from day 1 I always trained them using this.

 
Mine does it but only with bones. He's fine if we get close while he's eating dog food.

As a result, we just don't give him any bones.

 
I started with my female husky at 4 months, I would sit next to her while she would eat. I would do what many of you say and take the bowl away and offer it back. With her bones I would (and still do) take them from her every so often, she never growls at me, my wife or daughter, or our 10 year old Lab...however if other dogs are visiting, she is relentless at guarding her food and/or bones.

 
This is a safety issue for any visitor to your house, and it's not something you can let continue. If some toddler comes over to your house and you're not thinking about this, you might have a severely hurt child and a lawsuit on your hands.

You should be able to reach down without warning and pick up your dog's bowl. Period.

It won't exist in isolation as it's also a sign of the dog's sense of dominance. This may sound trite to you, but dogs are pack animals who think in terms of heirarchy, and they hate a leadership void. If they look around and don't see a leader, they'll take the role themselves, and you don't want that.

In a pack, the leader eats first and then gives permission for the others to eat, in order of heirarchy. Meal time is therefore a direct representation of your pack position and the level of authority you have. There's nothing egalitarian about it and all the sweet talk about the dog being "a member of the family" won't change this mindset.

What I was taught was to take the dog's bowl when I was ready to serve dinner, and have the dog sit. This is done by giving the verbal command, and also having the dog start by standing with it's rear end near a wall. Tell the dog sit as you move the bowl over its head (a couple of feet above the head) - the dog will insinctively follow the bowl, and the wall will force it to sit. The dog must remain seated as you place the bowl a few feet in front of you.

Then you wait for eye contact from the dog - the dog needs to recognize that you're the one who releases it to eat. When the dog makes eye contact you say "OK" and the dog can eat. My (dearly departed) German Shep got so programmed that before long she'd go sit in the appointed spot as I was preparing the food, long before I was going to place the bowl, and just watch me the whole time knowing that I'd give her permission to move.

You need to do other things to reinforce this. Once you've gotten the above pattern established, I'd condition the dog not to react by you picking up the bowl. Any growl or menacing posture as you approach means you grab the dog by the snout and reprimand it. Grab the dog hard enough to make it cry (it's really crying uncle more than crying out in pain, so it's a sign of surrender), and then you pick up the bowl.

First through the door (always) is also a good one as that's another big deal for dogs. Getting hip checked into the door frame a few times will teach them not to barge through in front of you, and it might also save you taking a tumble while carrying groceries.

The saving grace here is that the dog wants these social rules and the real problem is that it's unclear to the dog right now what you want in that regard, so you just need to show the dog that the rules are in place and that you will enforce them. It won't take long for it to learn.

 
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When my dog was a puppy, I occasionally would grab his food/bones/treats while he was eating. Not take it away. Just pick it up and put it back down.

He's fine with humans and dogs getting near his food. A couple of times a week, he finds a treasure at the top of the trashcan, and he's fine getting it taken away when he's in the middle of devouring his bounty.

 
You should be hand feeding your dog for the first 6 mos to a year.
This is actually true in some regard. Our trainer also recommended hand feeding every other meal, so the dogs would get used to hands in and around their face while eating. I've never had a food aggressive dog.

 
Bogeys said:
I have a chocolate husky and she was protective of food when a puppy (less than a year old) and would growl. All I did was start putting my hand in her bowl when she was eating, if she growled at all I would grab her by the scruff of the neck and hold her up while I swirled my hand all around in her food.
:lmao:

 
T Bell said:
This is a safety issue for any visitor to your house, and it's not something you can let continue. If some toddler comes over to your house and you're not thinking about this, you might have a severely hurt child and a lawsuit on your hands.

You should be able to reach down without warning and pick up your dog's bowl. Period.

It won't exist in isolation as it's also a sign of the dog's sense of dominance. This may sound trite to you, but dogs are pack animals who think in terms of heirarchy, and they hate a leadership void. If they look around and don't see a leader, they'll take the role themselves, and you don't want that.

In a pack, the leader eats first and then gives permission for the others to eat, in order of heirarchy. Meal time is therefore a direct representation of your pack position and the level of authority you have. There's nothing egalitarian about it and all the sweet talk about the dog being "a member of the family" won't change this mindset.

What I was taught was to take the dog's bowl when I was ready to serve dinner, and have the dog sit. This is done by giving the verbal command, and also having the dog start by standing with it's rear end near a wall. Tell the dog sit as you move the bowl over its head (a couple of feet above the head) - the dog will insinctively follow the bowl, and the wall will force it to sit. The dog must remain seated as you place the bowl a few feet in front of you.

Then you wait for eye contact from the dog - the dog needs to recognize that you're the one who releases it to eat. When the dog makes eye contact you say "OK" and the dog can eat. My (dearly departed) German Shep got so programmed that before long she'd go sit in the appointed spot as I was preparing the food, long before I was going to place the bowl, and just watch me the whole time knowing that I'd give her permission to move.

You need to do other things to reinforce this. Once you've gotten the above pattern established, I'd condition the dog not to react by you picking up the bowl. Any growl or menacing posture as you approach means you grab the dog by the snout and reprimand it. Grab the dog hard enough to make it cry (it's really crying uncle more than crying out in pain, so it's a sign of surrender), and then you pick up the bowl.

First through the door (always) is also a good one as that's another big deal for dogs. Getting hip checked into the door frame a few times will teach them not to barge through in front of you, and it might also save you taking a tumble while carrying groceries.

The saving grace here is that the dog wants these social rules and the real problem is that it's unclear to the dog right now what you want in that regard, so you just need to show the dog that the rules are in place and that you will enforce them. It won't take long for it to learn.
So hot.

 
Little story, when my brother was about 4 or 5, he went in the back yard of a friends house and tried to take a dog's bone away. He got away lucky, stitches below his left eye and under his chin. Now yes, it was not good that he was allowed to go out where a dog had a bone, but my point is, that stuff happens and you can't always prevent it. Better that the dog is well trained so that it doesn't happen in the first place, even if a kid (or adult) gets in that position.

---

We have a husky who doesn't have any issues with food or bone aggression, but our other dog (a black mouth cur (type of hound)) does have food aggression. It isn't toward humans though, only other dogs. I can go take his food out of his mouth if I wanted, but once in a while he'll be growling at the husky for getting too close while he eats.

 
I have a six month old Siberian Husky who overall is well trained and very friendly. The only problem is she is very protective of her food and any bone she chews on. If you go near her while she has either she will stop eating/chewing and growl at you.

Does anyone have any advice on how to correct this behavior before it is to late and she ends up biting someone? Any advice would be appreciated.
I don't know anything about dogs but my advice is to stay away from her when she's eating or chewing on a bone.

 
This is a safety issue for any visitor to your house, and it's not something you can let continue. If some toddler comes over to your house and you're not thinking about this, you might have a severely hurt child and a lawsuit on your hands.
"No, I'm sorry sis, but you and baby Eva can't come over because our dog has food aggression. I know, I'm just as disappointed as you are. See you at Thanksgiving!"

 

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