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How much (if any) of an impact does having railroad tracks near your house (say about 0.25 mile away) affect the value of a property?
Ask a local realtor if there is any impact.Probably minimal if not too loud nor any impact to the scenery.

A "perfect" location rarely exists, if ever. Some people want school systems, some want to pay low taxes. Some want swimming pools, some hate them. Some want close neighbors, some want to hide in the woods.

All depends.....

If other houses near the railroad are selling / doing fine, don't worry.

 
How much (if any) of an impact does having railroad tracks near your house (say about 0.25 mile away) affect the value of a property?
Ask a local realtor if there is any impact.Probably minimal if not too loud nor any impact to the scenery.

A "perfect" location rarely exists, if ever. Some people want school systems, some want to pay low taxes. Some want swimming pools, some hate them. Some want close neighbors, some want to hide in the woods.

All depends.....

If other houses near the railroad are selling / doing fine, don't worry.
Thanks; I'm inches away from bidding on a house but I'm worried about how loud the tracks are so I'm going to go hang outside the house this evening and see if I can gauge the loudness.
 
How much (if any) of an impact does having railroad tracks near your house (say about 0.25 mile away) affect the value of a property?
Ask a local realtor if there is any impact.Probably minimal if not too loud nor any impact to the scenery.

A "perfect" location rarely exists, if ever. Some people want school systems, some want to pay low taxes. Some want swimming pools, some hate them. Some want close neighbors, some want to hide in the woods.

All depends.....

If other houses near the railroad are selling / doing fine, don't worry.
Thanks; I'm inches away from bidding on a house but I'm worried about how loud the tracks are so I'm going to go hang outside the house this evening and see if I can gauge the loudness.
Very good idea.In general, visit a house you may move to at different points in time - day, night, weekends - if at all possible or you don't know the area.

Last thing you need is an unwanted 6AM wakeup call each day from something nearby.

Also - watch at night. Some houses face curves in roads or stop signs, and the headlights of cars shine right in the house. Sometimes, think of the worst - like a car 's brakes failing....

 
:goodposting:

Good stories.

One comment - please define for everyone "Trailing 12s".
I had help from 2 friends during the process...a builder buddy, who physically went to a couple of the properties we were serious about--this was to address any obvious problems w/the property and estimate the cost to repairthe 2nd was my real estate agent buddy, who pulled trailing 12's---he sent an email file with the sales records of the properties in the neighborhoods were were considering from the last 12 months by zip/street

I would then gather the reports from most recent /proximity to 1 we were considering/size, and target a "top $$" number we were comfortable bidding

there were a few that were bid past our top $$ pretty quickly, where other emotional factors were involved---1 in particular had former neighbors who grew up accross the street from each other go crazy raising the price on a house I thought was worth no more than $50K up to $75K when trailing 12's showed recent sales of like property in the low $80K's :shrug:

obviously getting the information from my 2 friends helped in both cases, but you need not have "friends in the business"....doing the leg work ahead of time is crutical, and can be done on your own---for example, our local newsppaper has a Real Estate section that shows the selling price on property settled in the previous week, by zip...this would be a way to start following a neighborhood, if interested

 
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How much (if any) of an impact does having railroad tracks near your house (say about 0.25 mile away) affect the value of a property?
Ask a local realtor if there is any impact.Probably minimal if not too loud nor any impact to the scenery.

A "perfect" location rarely exists, if ever. Some people want school systems, some want to pay low taxes. Some want swimming pools, some hate them. Some want close neighbors, some want to hide in the woods.

All depends.....

If other houses near the railroad are selling / doing fine, don't worry.
Thanks; I'm inches away from bidding on a house but I'm worried about how loud the tracks are so I'm going to go hang outside the house this evening and see if I can gauge the loudness.
I used to live about a three wood from a RR crossing that was another three wood away from the plant I work at. After three days I didn't even notice the crossing whistle and it never woke me. Transferred 500 miles away and dealt with the same plant years later. I could actually hear the whistle over a conference call. For most people, you will get accustomed to the noise and not notice it.
 
How much (if any) of an impact does having railroad tracks near your house (say about 0.25 mile away) affect the value of a property?
Ask a local realtor if there is any impact.Probably minimal if not too loud nor any impact to the scenery.

A "perfect" location rarely exists, if ever. Some people want school systems, some want to pay low taxes. Some want swimming pools, some hate them. Some want close neighbors, some want to hide in the woods.

All depends.....

If other houses near the railroad are selling / doing fine, don't worry.
Thanks; I'm inches away from bidding on a house but I'm worried about how loud the tracks are so I'm going to go hang outside the house this evening and see if I can gauge the loudness.
I used to live about a three wood from a RR crossing that was another three wood away from the plant I work at. After three days I didn't even notice the crossing whistle and it never woke me. Transferred 500 miles away and dealt with the same plant years later. I could actually hear the whistle over a conference call. For most people, you will get accustomed to the noise and not notice it.
:tfp: Sorry, had to be done :) .

 
Explain to me the timing aspect of flipping a house. You find a house, get it under contract and then look for a gc to handle the fixups? How do you guys work it so that you minimize the time it takes to fix the place up and resell it?

 
Explain to me the timing aspect of flipping a house. You find a house, get it under contract and then look for a gc to handle the fixups? How do you guys work it so that you minimize the time it takes to fix the place up and resell it?
Start with this:Running a Project

If you have a while before you close, you can get GCs to come and bid the work. If you get a major deal because you can close fast, you won't have that luxury.

You write your Scope of Work ("SOW") with time dependency and manage the work and timeline.

When the project nears completion, you can start to market it as "choose your paint and carpet colors", but that's risky. Harry Homeowner usually lacks the vision to see what a house that isn't 100% done can look like. (Actually most women decide on buying a home, so you better cater more to them).

When you are at paint, carpet and finishing touches (a.k.a. "punchout") stage, you can set an open house and talk to a listing agent about price and marketing.

Hope that helps.

 
Hey guys - I've been reading this thread the entire way - I've got another ?? (long) to throw out into the mix for the experts. Appreciate any feedback!!

Situation:

* Married (we're 28), no kids

* Location - Houston, TX

* Currently renting - lease expires Aug-2006

* Have ~$90k saved & in conservative, liquid investments. Most of this has been earmarked for a "house fund", if you will, and separate from 401k, etc.

* No CC debt or car payments

We are to the point where we are ready to purchase our first home. Please note, this is primarily a residence and not an investment vehicle. We've narrowed our search down to a neighborhood that meets our needs and we are planning on making our first purchase a house that will be a 'rehab' project. We've walked through a couple of candidate homes that are in the range of what we're looking for and are hoping to put a place under contract within the next 6-10 weeks. This should allow for us to comfortably finish this project before our rent lease expires.

We've gathered some local knowledge and also have a friend that runs his own business, rehabbing & selling homes in a few concentrated areas - this neighborhood is one of those areas. I appreciate how he runs his business & his finished products are upper-tier. He seems to be a bit more conservative than other 'rehabbers' I've spoken to in regards to his cost estimates & selling expectations.

I say that to say this - he has helped us find a couple of leads that can be had for around $10k BMV (priced above what he needs to make his investments work, considering his investment window, etc). And he is a friend and he already has 2 other projects going on right now, so he's helped feed us some leads in the area.

Aside from his thoughts, we've had a similar independent estimate for a place that looks promising for us. Purchase price of ~$180k with a rehab cost of ~$45 - 55k. Estimates of final street value based on comps are around ~$270 - 285k. The neighborhood isn't a lightning bolt, but 5-8% appreciation is happening each year due to a solid location. These are homes built in the 1950's in the neighborhood of 3BR / 2BTH with 2200sqft.

Questions:

So - HOW BEST TO SPEND THE MONEY? I am somewhat old school and like to avoid paying more interest than necessary. I am currently considering

putting 20% down and paying for the rehab up-front. This would be around $40k for the downpayment & fees and around $45-55k for the work - the remaining ~$145k or so would be financed (maybe a 15-year loan??).

With my available time, the workforce and my friend to help with the GC work from time to time (he'd just be a few streets away), we're thinking a 5-month rehab time frame is more than do-able. We're looking at living there for at least

2 years (5 years at the most) to capitalize on the gain in equity.

1.) What are your thoughts on my allocation of capital $$? I'm purposely limiting the monthly house note to a point that jives with our most conservative monthly income estimate. I don't want the stress of having to stretch to make payments.

2.) Help me get ready? I'd greatly appreciate some help in creating a laundry list of "To-Do's" before getting started (arrange for loan approval, inspection, etc.)

3.) Any other thoughts / concerns?

Thanks again

TOADS

 
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One other issue that I need to get over...being brokers, my partner and I are hesitant to low-ball and get that reputation in the market.
Real Estate Brokers? Make the offer in a Company name, where you have "power of Attorney". Happens all the time when I buy a place from an almost dead snow bird. Their Agent or Broker is the representative, and signs all the paper work. Set it up with the Title company of your choice, and then write in the use of that Title company as part of your offer.It's just like the Land Lord who never states he owns the building to the Tenant, only that he is the Manager.Really though, and I mean this, you will be dealing almost always with a seller that owns his home and a single rental. He won't be connected, he won't have a stable of properties, he won't have anyone to even talk to about it.Even if you are worried about the selling agent, you just make sure to get them working for you. If the Agent across the table knows that you are buying, and will buy any deal that fits your criteria, you just became a return customer. The Seller is almost always a one time deal.Really, don't sweat it. Buy a few, just a few, and you will be known as Buyers, not someone who beats people up for a few grand. Agents will flock to you, not the other way around. I bet I get 15 calls a month from Agents directly hawking some property to me, I turn them down flat some 99% of the time, and when I do go, I undercut like crazy. Trust me, they will call back again. I have an Agent that I don't go to, he comes to me, and when he does, I beat his teeth in. Last year, I talked him and his seller into reducing the price by Half. Half.The guy is going to continue to call, because a Slam dunk sale at even Half of selling price, where he takes both sides of the commission is better than having the place sit on the market, and run through financing some 3 times falling apart each time before it sells.Anyway, My serious advice is to Low-ball and build.
 
He bought it in 1989 for 62,000.  That gives you a pretty good idea of the crappy appreciation around here.  My concern is that repairs could run up-wards of $30,000, especially if I go to toss a tenant and they call county inspectors.  One other issue that I need to get over...being brokers, my partner and I are hesitant to low-ball and get that reputation in the market.
Don't get blinded by the math. What you perceive is unfair may be a blessing to him.Losing $20K may still be a deal to him.

Lowball offer....
And How Buckwheat.Earlier I relayed a time where a Guy bought the house in the $60K range years ago. I have 3 comparables that I own that all appraised with in the past year at $100K or just shy of that.

I picked up his property for basically $6K. He wanted out period.

It's how Short sales work for a bank. In that set up, you can buy a property $10K, $20K, or more under what even the current owners loan amount is.

If the guy Needs out, you might be pleasantly surprised. What he owes is not your concern. This isn't Fantasty Football, making his deal work is not your concern. What you are willing to pay for it is.

Many times I have made a Low-Ball offer. It's the offer that I need to make to run the deal. I don't care about his end. I'm concerned with what I will make. Either he takes it or he doesn't. If not, just move on, no big deal. (Like dating in High School, be disinterested and get all the chicks, or at a Job interview, you act as if you don't need the job) No big deal if he can't make the deal work on his end, you have what you will pay.

When he says no because he believes that his house is made of gold, that he was too smart to buy it poorly, he is too proud, whatever... You leave a standing offer on the table. I have been called back more than you would think six months later, in the middle of Winter, and his holding costs have gotten out of control, and he has come to grips with what his place is really worth as it festered in the market like a rotten road kill.

There are a lot of Land Lords out there that should have never gotten into this, they are ready to be done, damn the cost.

 
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Jeff and BnB... I really appreciated you going over my situation last night (buying new home and keep current home as a rental.  We are under the 1% rule coming in at about .7% but we are in a slow market and would like to take the opportunity to move up in house.)

I am still lost on the tax consequences and don't want to keep pressing the issue here.  I'm afraid the matter is in the same category as the "tuck" rule for me so I have woefully ignored it up to this point. 

Is there a link that you could share that any caveman (yes, they still exist) could understand?

Things I need to learn:

1. Depreciation

2. Depreciation recapture if/when we sell

3. Will 100% of taxes and interest paid be able to be written off against income generated by the rents. (Believe it or not, we are not eligible to itemize- about $3,000 away from it).

Thanks a ton.  PJ
If you are going to rent out the Home you live in, you need to go and talk with an accountant. The first half hour is likely free, and all these questions will be answered.#1, take your starting figure (Go talk to an accountant to get the best starting figure for your needs), divide that by 27.5 Take that much off your taxes each year.

As for #3, Yes. Along with Advertising, repair, upgrades, Any Utility you carry, and much, much, more.

Go talk to an accountant.

 
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Hey everyone, thanks for the advice. I'm totally new dealing with this so I really do appreciate y'all taking time to help.

I have one more question though:

I'm not sure I will be in the same city a year from now. My job is pretty much a stepping stone to bigger and better things, and doesn't offer much for me as far as advancement goes, and neither does my area, so I will likely be moving out of the city/state in a year or two. However, I still would love to buy a house, especially considering I can get some good deals being a first time homeowner.

The option I'm looking at is this. I'm single, but I have two friends who can move in with me to the new house if I get one. I will charge them rent to help me pay the bill. Likely the mortgage will be about 900 dollars all things considered and they will probably pay around 550 or so, greatly offsetting that cost.

My plan is to live there with them as roommates until I move, having them essentially paying down my mortgage, at the same time I split the utility costs with them, and when I move off I will keep the house and rent it either to them or to another family. The area I'm looking in is right next to an air force base, the property value is great and the market is always good for selling, so I'm not worried too much about demand for renting.

The question I have is whether or not this seems like a good idea. I figure this might be a good way to start a rental type business, where I get a house here or there, and if I can get the house at a low rate, and have other people pay down the mortgage during the first year or so, I'm getting a fairly good deal. Are there special considerations that apply when you turn a house you've lived in, into a rental property? Are there additional property taxes you have to pay? Should I mention these plans to the bank when I'm applying for a loan? Is it even a good idea in principle? Thanks in advance for thoughts on this.
There is a whole lot to cover here, and I have lots of thoughts in my head. Surely I will forget something.First, when renting out your own home, you can throw the fair housing stuff out the window, and you can discriminate. Just like a FSBO can opt to only sell to a Catholic Family, you have tons of leash here.

There are not additional property taxes per say. Nothing you can really predict as a guy just buying his first house. With connections, you can see things coming down the pipeline. You will just have to rely on your Realtor who will be clueless on the subject, but pretend not to be. You could get a Sewer levy of the area has bad back up into the basements, and it finally after years of debate was passed by City Council. They could pass a levy to revamp the entire Library system, replacing old buildings or creating new. Public Schools are most likely run off Property taxes, do you have a dire teacher shortage where they are contemplating raising salaries to attract teachers? Would your property fall into the newly created Downtown Improvement zone, where they tax to raise money to improve downtown? There are tons of things. Luckily, if you read the newspaper, you get/have a feel for what might happen months and months if not years in advance.

Living with a group of guys, where you will clearly have to be the Heavy/Boss/Jerk to protect your financial interests is a tough spot to be in. In the Honeymoon stage, it is going to be the greatest thing you have ever done in your life.

Then there will be the guy running the fire hazard space heater, who is running up everyone's electric bill. You will have to be the one to talk to set the rules. At every difficulty, there will be comments and resentment that they are buying you a house, and you don't appreciate that. Think of the old Roommate eating your food in the Fridge problem, and multiply that by 100.

They won't see that you have to take care of roof problems, keep the furnace running, provide a Stove, etc. Whats going to happen if you are cash poor, and the roof fails? Does everyone kick in? Does the place empty as it sucks to live there, and you get stuck at $900 a month that you can't make on top of having a leaking roof.

Just lots of pitfalls. FUN, just pitfalls. As long as you work through all this with the guys before you buy the place, you can do it, just don't go in blind.

I started by buying a Duplex, living in my side, letting the other side pay the mortgage, where we had our own personal space separated by locking front doors.

 
Hey everyone, thanks for the advice.  I'm totally new dealing with this so I really do appreciate y'all taking time to help.

I have one more question though:

I'm not sure I will be in the same city a year from now.  My job is pretty much a stepping stone to bigger and better things, and doesn't offer much for me as far as advancement goes, and neither does my area, so I will likely be moving out of the city/state in a year or two.  However, I still would love to buy a house, especially considering I can get some good deals being a first time homeowner.

The option I'm looking at is this.  I'm single, but I have two friends who can move in with me to the new house if I get one.  I will charge them rent to help me pay the bill.  Likely the mortgage will be about 900 dollars all things considered and they will probably pay around 550 or so, greatly offsetting that cost. 

My plan is to live there with them as roommates until I move, having them essentially paying down my mortgage, at the same time I split the utility costs with them, and when I move off I will keep the house and rent it either to them or to another family.  The area I'm looking in is right next to an air force base, the property value is great and the market is always good for selling, so I'm not worried too much about demand for renting.

The question I have is whether or not this seems like a good idea.  I figure this might be a good way to start a rental type business, where I get a house here or there, and if I can get the house at a low rate, and have other people pay down the mortgage during the first year or so, I'm getting a fairly good deal.  Are there special considerations that apply when you turn a house you've lived in, into a rental property?  Are there additional property taxes you have to pay?  Should I mention these plans to the bank when I'm applying for a loan?  Is it even a good idea in principle?  Thanks in advance for thoughts on this.
Good questions here.If this wasn't your plan, I'd say don't be a buyer of a house - rent or lease.

But, looks like you have a creative solution. I love those :) .

Is 550 the best you can get? I'd pitch it to your friends such that they cover $300 each. That way you can replace yourself at the house in a year or so if need be with another $300 renter (preferably $325, with $25 a year increase written in the lease) to cover your costs.

If your friends flinch - you say that you are putting your neck out to be the only one on the mortgage and in a year if you move, you'll need to get a property manager so that pays for part of it.

I doubt that they will be that unnerved by paying $300 rather than $250, unless it is that big of a deal.

I'm going to stop answering tax questions until we get an accountant on the thread. Real estate is great for tax savings, but I pay someone to figure all that out for me.

As for mentioning it to the bank - there's no need to do that now and it might put them off if you are already thinking that way. Some are skittish and might "flag" your loan (if they don't sell it) for check-up in a year or two to see if it is now non-owner-occupied (NOO). This can trigger a due on sale clause or at least a rate call (bank wants to charge you more).

If you just "changed your mind" in the future and decided to rent it..... that's another story.

If you start to show a pattern though you may have a problem.
Jeff's reply made me think of more things here.They are indeed paying too little. The risk is all yours, at least get some reward. Do not subsidize their housing. What would be the going rate for them. Don't give away a break, you will grow to greatly resent that down the road.

I WOULD NOT buy a house knowing that I was going to rent it out where I lived hundreds and hundreds of miles away in the future. You CANNOT run a rental business from Hundreds and hundreds of miles away.

You want to buy a House, do it, and roll the gains over into the new place wherever that might be.

If you do buy, all the Bank needs to know is that it is your primary residence, and you expect a fantastic rate. It would be outright moronic to state that you will rent it in the future. You might not ever move, and might die in this house where you can't swing a bat without hitting a Grandchild. Don't pay for that mistake for upwards 30 years.

 
Thanks for the suggestions/advice.  Seems like it's a good idea as I can't think of anything that would discourage me from doing it at this point.  The air force base is a very stable one and it's unlikely it'd be shutdown anytime soon, so I feel that the location is probably pretty good.  The house is 3/2 with 2 car garage and a nice sized fenced in backyard.  Quite a few new houses are being built in the subdivision as well so I think there will be continued growth there, and it's in a good school district.

Anyways, thanks for the input, it's well appreciated.
You do not want a rental that you can not easily visit in the future. Not every property manager is going to be Bass. There are some true losers out there. Lots of them.I will restate and jump on Bass's comments:

Work out all the details ahead of time. You need a security deposit. You won't subsidize your buddies living arrangements, here are the rules, etc.....

Once the Honeymoon stage is over, it can really suck if you guys didn't each protect yourself. Worst case each side: They get pissed, move out, MAYBE you can recoup some money taking your best friends to court, most likely they walk scott free. You can lose everything, and declare bankruptcy.

 
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Can my dad just deed the land to me for nothing without any kind of tax implication for either of us?
Have your Dad talk to your accountant about the various Trusts available. Something where he puts it in trust, and you are the beneficiary of the Trust, giving you control.Not my area of strength, but I would look at a trust.
 
5. Regarding stick built vs. manufactured. I would go manufactured, but would visit the plant where they make the homes and/or see examples of their work. I believe you would do well at $100 a sq.ft. or much less.

$150-180/ft is high.
Depending on what you want to accomplish, please check with various appraisers in your market before going this route. In my Market, a Manufactured home is still an albatross, and a poor investment. It's really only because of perception, but that's the way it is. It is still lumped in with Mobile Homes by definition.Now, if you want to retire to this land, live there until you die, and never refinance it in any way period, build whatever, it won't matter.

I don't have a crystal ball to know the future, nor do I understand the Market in the Socialist Republic of California where you gain $20K in appreciation just sitting in escrow waiting for the property to close.

ALL I am saying is that I recommend that you call up an Appraiser or three, and ask if Manufactured homes retain value. They should answer for free, and then pose this question to them. They know your market.

 
How much (if any) of an impact does having railroad tracks near your house (say about 0.25 mile away) affect the value of a property?
The Home I live in is Downtown, with RR Tracks maybe a Block and a Half to the North. My Home has doubled in Value in the past 8 years in a poor stagnant market.I never thought about it at all when I bought. For weeks in my first summer with the windows open, I was awakened at various times in the night as the Train crosses a road 2 blocks from my house, and lays on the horn every time it gets close. The flashing lights and warning bell of the crossing must not be enough.

The real answer is pull comparables from your area near the tracks, and then away from the tracks. Your Agent can do this no issue.

I would think that it would have a decent negative impact out in the surrounding areas of a city where you are not as likely to face that issue.

Can you give more info? Without more, all I can say is see what equal properties are selling for by and away from it.

 
How much (if any) of an impact does having railroad tracks near your house (say about 0.25 mile away) affect the value of a property?
Ask a local Realtor if there is any impact.Probably minimal if not too loud nor any impact to the scenery.

A "perfect" location rarely exists, if ever. Some people want school systems, some want to pay low taxes. Some want swimming pools, some hate them. Some want close neighbors, some want to hide in the woods.

All depends.....

If other houses near the railroad are selling / doing fine, don't worry.
Thanks; I'm inches away from bidding on a house but I'm worried about how loud the tracks are so I'm going to go hang outside the house this evening and see if I can gage the loudness.
Very good idea.In general, visit a house you may move to at different points in time - day, night, weekends - if at all possible or you don't know the area.

Last thing you need is an unwanted 6AM wakeup call each day from something nearby.

Also - watch at night. Some houses face curves in roads or stop signs, and the headlights of cars shine right in the house. Sometimes, think of the worst - like a car 's brakes failing....
Excellent Advice. Also you don't want to be on the outside of a curve, as more Cars than you think will be up in your front yard year after year. There is a spot not far from here right beside a public park where the road curves around the City Tennis Courts, makes another curve right in front of some HIGH END Houses, and then straightens out to proceed.

The funny thing is that the places were almost ALWAYS for sale at higher and higher prices. They turned every year or two across the board. I truly believed that this was simply a very hot spot, and that the property values were climbing constantly. And they were as SPECULATOR after speculator moved in to this stretch.

Turns out that these HIGH END houses took a beating as cars would slide up in the yard more often than you would think. The final solution has been HUGE temporary Concrete walls that are exceeding ugly. The property value, once perceived to be at the top of the market right next to the city park has fallen off and they are currently for sale at about 2/3rds of the price just 5 years ago. The people in this area took a BATH.

 
My accountant brought something interesting up today. If you're at your primary residence for under two years, and an event outside of your control forces you to move, you can take the percentage of two years that you lived there and apply that to your $250k/$500k exemptions.

Let's assume you're a married couple and live in a home for 18 months after which you are forced to move because you got laid off. The new job was too much of a commute, so you multiply $500k times 18/24, and you've got the exemption for your capital gains taxes. As long as your gain wasn't more than $375k, no capital gains tax. :thumbup:

This is in Washington State, and I am definitely not offering tax advice, and am not a professional accountant. :)

edit: Preliminary tax numbers look like I can make almost all of my income in 2005 go away and not have to pay capital gains I thought I was going to have! :o :pickle: I want to give my accountant a big hug.
I wonder what the working definition of "an event outside of your control" is, and how you would prove it.Surely something like Divorce wouldn't qualify? Very interesting.

 
Tell me about COSI loans.
COSI is just another index that a loan can be tied to for figuring out the rate.It is an adjustable loan.

There are TONS of these out there - I'm sure proninja will drop by soon to lay some of them out.

COSI is the Cost of Savings Index.

Here:

COSI Loan

Other common ones are the Prime Rate (which is the rate that the US Gov't loans $$ to FDIC banks), LIBOR (London Inter Bank Offer Rate), and COFI (Cost of Funds Index).

Here's a good reference:

Mortgage Rate Indices

Bottom line is that these are just baselines used for determining your interest rate. Some say "PRIME +1", or "COFI +2%", or whatever.

Prime changes more slowly than LIBOR, and the the COFI/COSI change the fastest I believe.

 
Explain to me the timing aspect of flipping a house. You find a house, get it under contract and then look for a gc to handle the fixups? How do you guys work it so that you minimize the time it takes to fix the place up and resell it?
Wow, that's not a small question. You will need to get more specific with what you are asking.On your time line:

If you don't have the skills to handle things yourself, I would get a GC involved well before I got it under "contract" (Not exactly sure what you mean by under "contract", I can imagine a number of definitions)

Number 1 tool anyone in the Real Estate business can have is a PUNCH LIST. Make one, and stick at it. First thing I ever do in a property is walk the place, make a punch list, and staple it to the wall. First thing I do.

Actually, I make a limited punch list before I buy the place as I first walk through it. Later, when you are at home with your thoughts, I want to go over the list, and see what I can handle, and what I can't. Also, it helps you get things in logical order. You certainly want to replace the Houses Main water cutoff before you ever have the water turned on just as a matter of precaution (I've been burned on that too many times). Knowing that, you know to put anything that needs water off for a few days.

 
When the project nears completion, you can start to market it as "choose your paint and carpet colors", but that's risky.  Harry Homeowner usually lacks the vision to see  what a house that isn't 100% done can look like.  (Actually most women decide on buying a home, so you better cater more to them).
This is VERY RISKY!!! Seriously, Most of America lacks vision. I can't tell you how many times I was able to knock thousands off the price because a house with Pink Carpet sat on the market. I save an extra 5 grand off my already low bid because not a single person in the process thought about spending $500.00 to replace the pink Carpet in the Living room.

Don't get me started on this, people are clueless and very stupid when it comes to visual appeal.

Have you ever watched any of the House selling shows on HGTV and the likes? How many times does a potential buyer walk in, look at a great house, love everything outside of the Counter tops in the kitchen, and then pass on the house? All the freaking time. It's the carpet, the bathroom, the paint colors, something.

On the first example of counter tops, the average sized counter top, to buy a Granite slab is just a few hundred bucks, really, lets say $150.00. Then another say $300-$400.00 to have it professionally installed. So these people pass up a great house over the silliest thing for $500-$600.00 in pretty simple improvements.

People seriously lack vision. Seriously. It is absolutely frustrating and comical.

Showing someone, certainly a woman a place with rough, non carpeted floors is most likely a death knoll.

Only way I have really found to combat it is to show them a finished product first, let them "oouu and ahhh", build up confidence that your places are all spectacular. Then you STRESS that the next place is NOT FINISHED, but you won't let anything go that isn't ready, only they might like to see the floor plan, and if they LOVE it (Always tell everyone that you don't want them to move in unless they LOVE it. Makes life sooo much easier, trust me.) they could go ahead and help with some of the selections. It's certainly not ready, you just want them to see the Floor plan.

I seriously, EVERY TIME, go so far as to tell them that there are two types of people in the world. Those with Vision, and those without who need to see a finished product. I don't care which you are, but I am certainly not going to show you a house that is not finished if you are the type that needs to see it finished. I challenge them, make then want to see it. Plead with me, the works.

All said, that when i started out with that line of chatter, I just expected that each and every person would accept it as a challenge, and want to see an unfinished house, just to see the "floor plan". The reality is that OVER HALF pass when I run this at them, and say that they really need to see it finished. Absolutely mind boggling. :loco:

 
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Hey guys - I've been reading this thread the entire way - I've got another ?? (long) to throw out into the mix for the experts. Appreciate any feedback!!

Situation:

* Married (we're 28), no kids

* Location - Houston, TX

* Currently renting - lease expires Aug-2006

* Have ~$90k saved & in conservative, liquid investments. Most of this has been earmarked for a "house fund", if you will, and separate from 401k, etc.

* No CC debt or car payments

We are to the point where we are ready to purchase our first home. Please note, this is primarily a residence and not an investment vehicle. We've narrowed our search down to a neighborhood that meets our needs and we are planning on making our first purchase a house that will be a 'rehab' project. We've walked through a couple of candidate homes that are in the range of what we're looking for and are hoping to put a place under contract within the next 6-10 weeks. This should allow for us to comfortably finish this project before our rent lease expires.

We've gathered some local knowledge and also have a friend that runs his own business, rehabbing & selling homes in a few concentrated areas - this neighborhood is one of those areas. I appreciate how he runs his business & his finished products are upper-tier. He seems to be a bit more conservative than other 'rehabbers' I've spoken to in regards to his cost estimates & selling expectations.

I say that to say this - he has helped us find a couple of leads that can be had for around $10k BMV (priced above what he needs to make his investments work, considering his investment window, etc). And he is a friend and he already has 2 other projects going on right now, so he's helped feed us some leads in the area.
Help me to understand. He is asking for a $10K Finders Fee???
Aside from his thoughts, we've had a similar independent estimate for a place that looks promising for us. Purchase price of ~$180k with a rehab cost of ~$45 - 55k. Estimates of final street value based on comps are around ~$270 - 285k. The neighborhood isn't a lightning bolt, but 5-8% appreciation is happening each year due to a solid location. These are homes built in the 1950's in the neighborhood of 3BR / 2BTH with 2200sqft.

Questions:

So - HOW BEST TO SPEND THE MONEY? I am somewhat old school and like to avoid paying more interest than necessary. I am currently considering

putting 20% down and paying for the rehab up-front. This would be around $40k for the down payment & fees and around $45-55k for the work - the remaining ~$145k or so would be financed (maybe a 15-year loan??).
Outside of Leveraging to acquire more property, I am VERY old school. I haven't commented in some of these posts because my strategies are not the best to make money with. For example, take ProNinja. This guy as ABSOLUTELY taught me more a ton about working money, and you know, he is absolutely correct through my research and thoughts on the subject. Only I am not comfortable with some of the risks he advises. Absolutely correct, just not for me.My concern on your plan is that you are not leaving yourself a nest egg/security blanket. $90K saved - $40K down - even say $45K for rehab = -$5K. You know your Finances, but I would find a way to leave $10-$20K on the table. Trust me when I say that your Rehab is going to run WAY over if this is your first attempt. You don't have the cost saving connections or route battle plan in place. You are going to run over. Now, I would say that the normal first timer, certainly doing his own home would run over some $40K all said. However, you seem to have a buddy who can help keep you grounded.

With my available time, the workforce and my friend to help with the GC work from time to time (he'd just be a few streets away), we're thinking a 5-month rehab time frame is more than do-able. We're looking at living there for at least

2 years (5 years at the most) to capitalize on the gain in equity.

1.) What are your thoughts on my allocation of capital $$? I'm purposely limiting the monthly house note to a point that jives with our most conservative monthly income estimate. I don't want the stress of having to stretch to make payments.

2.) Help me get ready? I'd greatly appreciate some help in creating a laundry list of "To-Do's" before getting started (arrange for loan approval, inspection, etc.)

3.) Any other thoughts / concerns?

Thanks again

TOADS
Can you better explain this buddy's Financial arrangement with you? I get a red flag there. Something doesn't feel right somehow, but there is not enough info to comment.I strongly believe you are cutting your capital too thin.

When the time comes that you are asking how to repair something, how to build the bathroom of your dreams, how to do the nuts and bolts for the cheapest biggest bang, I am your man. I am very strong when it comes to the nuts, bolt, and pennies of the rehab.

Jeff and ProNinja are certainly the man for the initial investment.

For the record, this was an excellently laid out question. :thumbup: I'd just like a small amount of additional specific info.

 
We've gathered some local knowledge and also have a friend that runs his own business, rehabbing & selling homes in a few concentrated areas - this neighborhood is one of those areas.  I appreciate how he runs his business & his finished products are upper-tier.  He seems to be a bit more conservative than other 'rehabbers' I've spoken to in regards to his cost estimates & selling expectations.

I say that to say this - he has helped us find a couple of leads that can be had for around $10k BMV (priced above what he needs to make his investments work, considering his investment window, etc).  And he is a friend and he already has 2 other projects going on right now, so he's helped feed us some leads in the area.
Help me to understand. He is asking for a $10K Finders Fee???
No finders fee at all - what I meant by this was that he believes that this is property is around $10k below mkt value. For his purposes, as a pure investor, he would need to get it for $170k to make it work (based on his conservatism and his short term timeframe to turn it around as an investment). He can't make it work, he knows we're looking, and passed it on as a potential lead for me.
My concern on your plan is that you are not leaving yourself a nest egg/security blanket.  $90K saved - $40K down - even say $45K for rehab = -$5K.  You know your Finances, but I would find a way to leave $10-$20K on the table.  Trust me when I say that your Rehab is going to run WAY over if this is your first attempt.  You don't have the cost saving connections or route battle plan in place.  You are going to run over.  Now, I would say that the normal first timer, certainly doing his own home would run over some $40K all said.  However, you seem to have a buddy who can help keep you grounded. 
I agree that we're probably going to use up most of our liquid savings - but this is what we've been saving it for... Just to make sure we're on the same page, during this project I'm going to be able to 1.) make the monthly payments on the home & the apartment we live in now and 2.) continue adding modestly to the "security blanket" fund. With around $90 to $95k of purchasing power through the summer, I guess I feel OK with using $40k for the downpayment + closing costs and a project cost of $50k. I guess it's a short-term risk I'm going to have to balance...??As far as overruns... I feel like I'm mitigating some of the risk with being available to do some things myself by being home often to work on it. His $50k estimate is with 3rd party contractors doing all the work. I'm sure it will be more than I think, but I think I can cancel that out with his knowledge & my ability to work on portions of it myself...?? :bag:

Can you better explain this buddy's Financial arrangement with you?  I get a red flag there.  Something doesn't feel right somehow, but there is not enough info to comment.
So far - no formal "on paper" arrangement. This will need to be done, I agree. We've discussed a sort of co-GC kind of plan. I rotate for my job, so I will have 3-week chunks of time (every 6 weeks) that I am completely away from the office and can focus on this project. I plan on working full time on our house when I'm home (bouncing questions off of him as they come up). When away, I plan on paying him - per an agreement - a general rate to watch over the progress of my project. Because he works in the same neighborhood, it should be a relatively easy deal to pop over and check on things...thoughts?
I strongly believe you are cutting your capital too thin.
Maybe I should avoid paying 20% down or paying cash for the entire project? What would be the best use of my $$?
When the time comes that you are asking how to repair something, how to build the bathroom of your dreams, how to do the nuts and bolts for the cheapest biggest bang, I am your man.  I am very strong when it comes to the nuts, bolt, and pennies of the rehab.
Awesome - you'll probably hear from me again down the road :D
Jeff and ProNinja are certainly the man for the initial investment.

For the record, this was an excellently laid out question.  :thumbup:   I'd just like a small amount of additional specific info.
I'd love to hear more - thanks for the help so far!!TOADS

 
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Tell me about COSI loans.
COSI is just another index that a loan can be tied to for figuring out the rate.It is an adjustable loan.

There are TONS of these out there - I'm sure proninja will drop by soon to lay some of them out.

COSI is the Cost of Savings Index.

Here:

COSI Loan

Other common ones are the Prime Rate (which is the rate that the US Gov't loans $$ to FDIC banks), LIBOR (London Inter Bank Offer Rate), and COFI (Cost of Funds Index).

Here's a good reference:

Mortgage Rate Indices

Bottom line is that these are just baselines used for determining your interest rate. Some say "PRIME +1", or "COFI +2%", or whatever.

Prime changes more slowly than LIBOR, and the the COFI/COSI change the fastest I believe.
Dead on Jeff.The only tine I have EVER seen this even talked about is when someone was trying to use Smoke and mirrors to confuse you.

 
We've gathered some local knowledge and also have a friend that runs his own business, rehabbing & selling homes in a few concentrated areas - this neighborhood is one of those areas.  I appreciate how he runs his business & his finished products are upper-tier.  He seems to be a bit more conservative than other 'rehabbers' I've spoken to in regards to his cost estimates & selling expectations.

I say that to say this - he has helped us find a couple of leads that can be had for around $10k BMV (priced above what he needs to make his investments work, considering his investment window, etc).  And he is a friend and he already has 2 other projects going on right now, so he's helped feed us some leads in the area.
Help me to understand. He is asking for a $10K Finders Fee???
No finders fee at all - what I meant by this was that he believes that this is property is around $10k below mkt value. For his purposes, as a pure investor, he would need to get it for $170k to make it work (based on his conservatism and his short term time frame to turn it around as an investment). He can't make it work, he knows we're looking, and passed it on as a potential lead for me.
My concern on your plan is that you are not leaving yourself a nest egg/security blanket.  $90K saved - $40K down - even say $45K for rehab = -$5K.  You know your Finances, but I would find a way to leave $10-$20K on the table.  Trust me when I say that your Rehab is going to run WAY over if this is your first attempt.  You don't have the cost saving connections or route battle plan in place.  You are going to run over.  Now, I would say that the normal first timer, certainly doing his own home would run over some $40K all said.  However, you seem to have a buddy who can help keep you grounded. 
I agree that we're probably going to use up most of our liquid savings - but this is what we've been saving it for... Just to make sure we're on the same page, during this project I'm going to be able to 1.) make the monthly payments on the home & the apartment we live in now and 2.) continue adding modestly to the "security blanket" fund. With around $90 to $95k of purchasing power through the summer, I guess I feel OK with using $40k for the down payment + closing costs and a project cost of $50k. I guess it's a short-term risk I'm going to have to balance...??As far as overruns... I feel like I'm mitigating some of the risk with being available to do some things myself by being home often to work on it. His $50k estimate is with 3rd party contractors doing all the work. I'm sure it will be more than I think, but I think I can cancel that out with his knowledge & my ability to work on portions of it myself...?? :bag:

Can you better explain this buddy's Financial arrangement with you?  I get a red flag there.  Something doesn't feel right somehow, but there is not enough info to comment.
So far - no formal "on paper" arrangement. This will need to be done, I agree. We've discussed a sort of co-GC kind of plan. I rotate for my job, so I will have 3-week chunks of time (every 6 weeks) that I am completely away from the office and can focus on this project. I plan on working full time on our house when I'm home (bouncing questions off of him as they come up). When away, I plan on paying him - per an agreement - a general rate to watch over the progress of my project. Because he works in the same neighborhood, it should be a relatively easy deal to pop over and check on things...thoughts?
I strongly believe you are cutting your capital too thin.
Maybe I should avoid paying 20% down or paying cash for the entire project? What would be the best use of my $$?
When the time comes that you are asking how to repair something, how to build the bathroom of your dreams, how to do the nuts and bolts for the cheapest biggest bang, I am your man.  I am very strong when it comes to the nuts, bolt, and pennies of the rehab.
Awesome - you'll probably hear from me again down the road :D
Jeff and ProNinja are certainly the man for the initial investment.

For the record, this was an excellently laid out question.  :thumbup:   I'd just like a small amount of additional specific info.
I'd love to hear more - thanks for the help so far!!TOADS
I'm just going to bring everything to the bottom, as I will confuse the Quotes soon.Completely understand that he found a winner, but it is not a winner for him. I operate WAY under the market, and pass on sweetheart deals all the time. I wish I had a buyer to pass things off to from time to time. Actually, my Wife has a Business model that has never been implemented where she passes off every bit of my work product, numbers, everything for a small gain in her pocket. She has a Realtors license, just as I do, only I will never use mine. Buying and rehabbing is so much more rewarding than selling.

I am a HUGE old fashion pay down guy. Just the way I was raised. You want advice on how to make your money work for you? ProNinja needs to chime in here. What he says is dead on, and sharp as all get out. Just not my level of comfort.

However it works, anyone here is going to tell you to stay liquid. Jeff is most likely the best to give you examples. I got VERY short on liquid assets early this winter trying to get all Heating out of my name. It was a very tough winter.

Jeff should also have some comments on what your Rehab might take. It's great that you have a "Pro" in the mix, but I am telling you, I RUN OVER from time to time, and I've been doing this for a decade. I had one this summer that ballooned to 300% of budget. It happens.

In your case, the Wife is going to want the High end stove, where the buddy was thinking a mid range, and it gets away from you starting there.

One of the MOST expensive things that can happen to you is changing plans. You get everything set with the Electrician. After the fact, your Wife (Most likely the wife ;) ) makes a great point that the overhead ceiling fans should have separate controls for the light and the fan so you don't have to pull the cords a thousand times to get the fan right. Everyone hates that, separate controls is the ONLY way to go, you just put it on High, and have a 3 setting switch on the wall built into the same light switch. However, this requires another wire run. No big deal you think.

THIS IS WHERE the Electrician just rapes you. Piles on, and goes nuts. Anything you change costs you a mint. All these contractors know that you are going to change things. This is where the New Rehabber gets eaten alive. They don't know what they want, and Changes happen at 4 to 5 times the going rate.

Trust me, your Wife (and You) are going to change things as you go along in your dream house. Who wouldn't??? I would, I'd change everything. This is my Dream house, and if I see something in the construction that could be better,. I am changing it.

All I am saying here is that this isn't your buddy's normal flip. This is your dream house, and YOU and YOUR WIFE are going to really run the price up here.

Did your Buddy allow for the top top end Faucets in the Bath? He didn't in his figure. He doesn't use those. Your Wife is going to want them, remember, this is her dream house.

This is going to get away from you. I do this for a living, and if I was standing right beside you, doing everything I could to help, well, then it would get away from US. ;) It's just the way it is going to work. The Carpet your Buddy uses that is good enough won't be good enough for your home. The list of things you are going to go over his normal quality on is about Everything in the house. It's just the way it works.

I am off on a Tangent here, but the point is that you are not leaving enough of a Safety net, and that is coming from a guy that is a "bit more conservative than other 'rehabbers' "

So back to the Co-GC deal. You need to follow his vision, and accept less than perfect, or he needs to accept yours and up the budget. If you each run for 3 weeks at a time, you will not be happy with the product unless you buy into what he is selling. Someday I will tell you about my first and only partner. This was exactly our issue.

 
For those people renting out units, I stumbbed across this:

Screening for good tenants has always been important. Since 9/11/01, preventive measures against terrorism are especially important. It is now recommended by Attorney Robert Friedman, author of How To Survive Legally as a Landlord, that landlords should update some of their screening policies. As a landlord, you are not prohibited from discriminating on the basis of citizenship. Asking for documentation of citizenship or immigration status does not violate fair housing laws. You probably know however, that all applicants should be treated the same. What you may NOT know is that Pursuant to Executive Order 13224, all U.S. citizens and organizations are prohibited from any business transaction with any person or entity on the United States Treasury Office of Foreign Assets Control's, Specially Designated Nationals and Blocked Persons List (SDN List). The SDN list contains the names of persons deemed to be involved in money laundering, drug trafficking, terrorism or terrorist financing. Landlords, property managers and brokers must check present and prospective tenant's names against the SDN list. Records must be saved for five years. For violations, the criminal penalties are $50,000 to $10,000,000; imprisonment for 10 to 30 years and civilpenalties up to $1,000,000. The SDN list can be viewed at -http://www.ustreas.gov/offices/enforcement/ofac/sdn/It is also suggested that landlords add the following questionto their rental applications:Are you or any member of your household a SDN or other Blocked Person designated by the U.S. government as a person who commits or supports terrorism or is involved in international narcotics trafficking?* In, addition, leases should provide that the resident represents that he or she is not on the SDN list, authorizes additional periodic SDN checks, and permits the landlord to terminate the lease for terrorist or other criminal activity.How would you like to have rented to the pilot of one of the planes that took out the twin towers and they wanted to make an example of you?I couldn't take 10 Million in fines, 30 years in jail, and another 1 Million per victim, or however they let it happen. YIKES!!!

 
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Jeff should also have some comments on what your Rehab might take. It's great that you have a "Pro" in the mix, but I am telling you, I RUN OVER from time to time, and I've been doing this for a decade. I had one this summer that ballooned to 300% of budget. It happens.

In your case, the Wife is going to want the High end stove, where the buddy was thinking a mid range, and it gets away from you starting there.

One of the MOST expensive things that can happen to you is changing plans. You get everything set with the Electrician. After the fact, your Wife (Most likely the wife ;) ) makes a great point that the overhead ceiling fans should have separate controls for the light and the fan so you don't have to pull the cords a thousand times to get the fan right. Everyone hates that, separate controls is the ONLY way to go, you just put it on High, and have a 3 setting switch on the wall built into the same light switch. However, this requires another wire run. No big deal you think.

THIS IS WHERE the Electrician just rapes you. Piles on, and goes nuts. Anything you change costs you a mint. All these contractors know that you are going to change things. This is where the New Rehabber gets eaten alive. They don't know what they want, and Changes happen at 4 to 5 times the going rate.

Trust me, your Wife (and You) are going to change things as you go along in your dream house. Who wouldn't??? I would, I'd change everything. This is my Dream house, and if I see something in the construction that could be better,. I am changing it.

All I am saying here is that this isn't your buddy's normal flip. This is your dream house, and YOU and YOUR WIFE are going to really run the price up here.

Did your Buddy allow for the top top end Faucets in the Bath? He didn't in his figure. He doesn't use those. Your Wife is going to want them, remember, this is her dream house.

This is going to get away from you. I do this for a living, and if I was standing right beside you, doing everything I could to help, well, then it would get away from US. ;) It's just the way it is going to work. The Carpet your Buddy uses that is good enough won't be good enough for your home. The list of things you are going to go over his normal quality on is about Everything in the house. It's just the way it works.

I am off on a Tangent here, but the point is that you are not leaving enough of a Safety net, and that is coming from a guy that is a "bit more conservative than other 'rehabbers' "

So back to the Co-GC deal. You need to follow his vision, and accept less than perfect, or he needs to accept yours and up the budget. If you each run for 3 weeks at a time, you will not be happy with the product unless you buy into what he is selling. Someday I will tell you about my first and only partner. This was exactly our issue.
MA - good to know someone else is up at these hours that I can bounce things off of :banned: I really appreciate your 'real world' perspective on this topic ... it's obviously not something I have had a chance to gain yet in this arena. I'll surely be interested in hearing from some others as to the ways to solve / work around the cash flow issue. As for the budget, I need to sit down and make sure our budgets & ideas are aligned with our goals. You're helping me realize that I'm probably a little too far ahead of myself with visions of grandeur & a smoothly delivered project. Thanks for the good words!

My wife & I both have talked that this isn't supposed to be our Dream Home - we're planning on using this as a stepping stone. She's quite a reasonable gal...but, that being said, I can appreciate what you're saying will happen with the upgrades - and probably all too easily!! All I can say is - we'll try and nail down a plan and plan the attack as best I can (with his guidance) and stay within it :) I've been through several of his finished homes and have been impressed with his work & quality.

OK folks - how about the money side - how best to apply it?

Also - I'm planning to blog my experience - I'll let you in on the progress if interested :bag:

TOADS

 
For those people renting out units, I stumbbed across this:

Screening for good tenants has always been important. Since 9/11/01, preventive measures against terrorism are especially important. It is now recommended by Attorney Robert Friedman, author of How To Survive Legally as a Landlord, that landlords should update some of their screening policies. As a landlord, you are not prohibited from discriminating on the basis of citizenship. Asking for documentation of citizenship or immigration status does not violate fair housing laws. You probably know however, that all applicants should be treated the same. What you may NOT know is that Pursuant to Executive Order 13224, all U.S. citizens and organizations are prohibited from any business transaction with any person or entity on the United States Treasury Office of Foreign Assets Control's, Specially Designated Nationals and Blocked Persons List (SDN List). The SDN list contains the names of persons deemed to be involved in money laundering, drug trafficking, terrorism or terrorist financing. Landlords, property managers and brokers must check present and prospective tenant's names against the SDN list. Records must be saved for five years. For violations, the criminal penalties are $50,000 to $10,000,000; imprisonment for 10 to 30 years and civilpenalties up to $1,000,000. The SDN list can be viewed at -http://www.ustreas.gov/offices/enforcement/ofac/sdn/It is also suggested that landlords add the following questionto their rental applications:Are you or any member of your household a SDN or other Blocked Person designated by the U.S. government as a person who commits or supports terrorism or is involved in international narcotics trafficking?* In, addition, leases should provide that the resident represents that he or she is not on the SDN list, authorizes additional periodic SDN checks, and permits the landlord to terminate the lease for terrorist or other criminal activity.How would you like to have rented to the pilot of one of the planes that took out the twin towers and they wanted to make an example of you?I couldn't take 10 Million in fines, 30 years in jail, and another 1 Million per victim, or however they let it happen. YIKES!!!
Mike...do you have a link on this?
 
First, when renting out your own home, you can throw the fair housing stuff out the window, and you can discriminate. Just like a FSBO can opt to only sell to a Catholic Family, you have tons of leash here.
This only applies if you are living in the premise and some smaller multi-family. A FSBO can not discriminate unless they want to face a $10,000 fine.
 
How much (if any) of an impact does having railroad tracks near your house (say about 0.25 mile away) affect the value of a property?
The Home I live in is Downtown, with RR Tracks maybe a Block and a Half to the North. My Home has doubled in Value in the past 8 years in a poor stagnant market.I never thought about it at all when I bought. For weeks in my first summer with the windows open, I was awakened at various times in the night as the Train crosses a road 2 blocks from my house, and lays on the horn every time it gets close. The flashing lights and warning bell of the crossing must not be enough.

The real answer is pull comparables from your area near the tracks, and then away from the tracks. Your Agent can do this no issue.

I would think that it would have a decent negative impact out in the surrounding areas of a city where you are not as likely to face that issue.

Can you give more info? Without more, all I can say is see what equal properties are selling for by and away from it.
In my martket on Long Island where an easy train ride to NYC is key, Being close to the RR in a NICE neighborhood adds a ton of value - People want to be able to walk to the train and not deal with the parking mess and then be in NYC in a little over 30 minutes....The further you go north from the tracks where I live the less value there is in homes - I don't attribute that totally to the RR but, I know we needed to be walking distance and we paid a premium....

 
Explain to me the timing aspect of flipping a house.  You find a house, get it under contract and then look for a gc to handle the fixups?  How do you guys work it so that you minimize the time it takes to fix the place up and resell it?
Wow, that's not a small question. You will need to get more specific with what you are asking.On your time line:

If you don't have the skills to handle things yourself, I would get a GC involved well before I got it under "contract" (Not exactly sure what you mean by under "contract", I can imagine a number of definitions)

Number 1 tool anyone in the Real Estate business can have is a PUNCH LIST. Make one, and stick at it. First thing I ever do in a property is walk the place, make a punch list, and staple it to the wall. First thing I do.

Actually, I make a limited punch list before I buy the place as I first walk through it. Later, when you are at home with your thoughts, I want to go over the list, and see what I can handle, and what I can't. Also, it helps you get things in logical order. You certainly want to replace the Houses Main water cutoff before you ever have the water turned on just as a matter of precaution (I've been burned on that too many times). Knowing that, you know to put anything that needs water off for a few days.
By under contract I mean at closing. I realize it would be great to have the gc lined up well before that time but how does one do that if you haven't worked with a specific gc for any length of time? I mean, at what point is it a good time to bring a gc into the project to assess what it may cost to handle the things you can't. I don't have a specific example in mind, I just know I wouldn't want to be interviewing gc's after closing hoping to get a good one who will be available to work on the place when I want them to. I don't want to waste their time or mine and especially not my profit. Oh and please describe an example of your punch list.
 
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I realize it would be great to have the gc lined up well before that time but how does one do that if you haven't worked with a specific gc for any length of time?  I mean, at what point is it a good time to bring a gc into the project to assess what it may cost to handle the things you can't. 
This has been the downfall of many an inexperienced investor in my market area. There is just too much new construction going on here for a GC to bother with side jobs. Networking is one of the most important keys to success in flipping. If a contractor hasn't had previous experience working with you, it will take a couple of weeks for them to come out just to give you an estimate. Even longer if the job is not very big, and it's not uncommon for them to not come at all. The bottom line is, if you don't have an "in" with the kind of contractor you'll be needing on a specific project (drywall, electrical, excavating, etc.), you'd better be prepared to do it yourself. If you can't because of time or lack of talent, about 75% of your time is going to be wasted waiting for a contractor to get around to you. A flip that looks like it could get done in two months turns into nine months. You can still make money, but it's no "get rich quick" deal.

Of course, this only pertains to markets in the middle of a building boom right now. If that describes your market, and you're not very handy or don't know many contractors, just buy something that needs paint, carpet, and a little landscaping. A few quick flips can be just as profitable as a major rehab.

 
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When the project nears completion, you can start to market it as "choose your paint and carpet colors", but that's risky. Harry Homeowner usually lacks the vision to see what a house that isn't 100% done can look like. (Actually most women decide on buying a home, so you better cater more to them).
This is VERY RISKY!!! Seriously, Most of America lacks vision. I can't tell you how many times I was able to knock thousands off the price because a house with Pink Carpet sat on the market. I save an extra 5 grand off my already low bid because not a single person in the process thought about spending $500.00 to replace the pink Carpet in the Living room.

Don't get me started on this, people are clueless and very stupid when it comes to visual appeal.

Have you ever watched any of the House selling shows on HGTV and the likes? How many times does a potential buyer walk in, look at a great house, love everything outside of the Counter tops in the kitchen, and then pass on the house? All the freaking time. It's the carpet, the bathroom, the paint colors, something.

On the first example of counter tops, the average sized counter top, to buy a Granite slab is just a few hundred bucks, really, lets say $150.00. Then another say $300-$400.00 to have it professionally installed. So these people pass up a great house over the silliest thing for $500-$600.00 in pretty simple improvements.

People seriously lack vision. Seriously. It is absolutely frustrating and comical.

Showing someone, certainly a woman a place with rough, non carpeted floors is most likely a death knoll.

Only way I have really found to combat it is to show them a finished product first, let them "oouu and ahhh", build up confidence that your places are all spectacular. Then you STRESS that the next place is NOT FINISHED, but you won't let anything go that isn't ready, only they might like to see the floor plan, and if they LOVE it (Always tell everyone that you don't want them to move in unless they LOVE it. Makes life sooo much easier, trust me.) they could go ahead and help with some of the selections. It's certainly not ready, you just want them to see the Floor plan.

I seriously, EVERY TIME, go so far as to tell them that there are two types of people in the world. Those with Vision, and those without who need to see a finished product. I don't care which you are, but I am certainly not going to show you a house that is not finished if you are the type that needs to see it finished. I challenge them, make then want to see it. Plead with me, the works.

All said, that when i started out with that line of chatter, I just expected that each and every person would accept it as a challenge, and want to see an unfinished house, just to see the "floor plan". The reality is that OVER HALF pass when I run this at them, and say that they really need to see it finished. Absolutely mind boggling. :loco:
:goodposting: Dead on Mike.

Amazing.

It is even bigger a disparity in commercial real estate or developing. Many see land and say "this would be a nice place to live." Ask them what type of house, where the driveway would be, etc. etc. and their eyes roll up in their head.

Commercial - where you can make serious $$ - is often about "upside", which requires vision. Do you see a shopping center with vacancy? Can you figure out why? Foot traffic? Signage? Advertising?

It goes on - if you see a multi-unit building and call the county to find out the zoning and realize you can put in a cell tower or a hotel or an office complex - you may have found a HUGE improvement to what you can use the property for. Maximizing usage of a property pays BIG dividends.

Back to residential. Again, women make 90% of the decisions to buy a house. It is true. 10% of investors are female. Also (close) to true (I don't have the numbers, but I'm sure it is at most 20%).

Why is that? Rehabbing a property takes vision, and slight against women, they often lack construction vision. They are fantastic at curb appeal and dressing / finishing a house, especially with color and interior design.

Just my experience as to who is strong / weak at each skill.

So - showing an unfinished house that would require an imagination as to what the finished product would look like - usually doesn't work. I like Mike's approach of making them virtually beg to look at the place, and even that is only 50% successful.

 
My two brothers and I are purchasing a newly constructed home as an investment property near Boise, ID. My brother started working in the real estate business in Boise last year, and we were able to put a deposit down on this home a few months ago to lock in at $135K -- other similar homes in the neighborhood are selling for $175K+, so we've already built up some equity if the market holds together (the market has continued to rapidly rise in the Boise area). The home construction should be completed within a few months.

We've been pre-approved but not financed yet. Based on the equity in our respective homes, our credit ratings, and the lender who works closely with my brother's company, it shouldn't be a problem. We plan to put 10% down and finance the rest. Is anyone familiar with how the loan can be structured to equally distribute our liability? Also, what type of loan would you recommend? -- negative amortization, interest-only ARM, etc. We'd like to hang on to it for at least a year to minimize captial gains, and we'd keep it for a longer period of time if we could rent it out and generate cash flow. Any comments on this would be appreciated. Thanks.

 
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Hey guys - I've been reading this thread the entire way - I've got another ?? (long) to throw out into the mix for the experts. Appreciate any feedback!!

Situation:

* Married (we're 28), no kids

* Location - Houston, TX

* Currently renting - lease expires Aug-2006

* Have ~$90k saved & in conservative, liquid investments. Most of this has been earmarked for a "house fund", if you will, and separate from 401k, etc.

* No CC debt or car payments

We are to the point where we are ready to purchase our first home. Please note, this is primarily a residence and not an investment vehicle. We've narrowed our search down to a neighborhood that meets our needs and we are planning on making our first purchase a house that will be a 'rehab' project. We've walked through a couple of candidate homes that are in the range of what we're looking for and are hoping to put a place under contract within the next 6-10 weeks. This should allow for us to comfortably finish this project before our rent lease expires.

We've gathered some local knowledge and also have a friend that runs his own business, rehabbing & selling homes in a few concentrated areas - this neighborhood is one of those areas. I appreciate how he runs his business & his finished products are upper-tier. He seems to be a bit more conservative than other 'rehabbers' I've spoken to in regards to his cost estimates & selling expectations.

I say that to say this - he has helped us find a couple of leads that can be had for around $10k BMV (priced above what he needs to make his investments work, considering his investment window, etc). And he is a friend and he already has 2 other projects going on right now, so he's helped feed us some leads in the area.

Aside from his thoughts, we've had a similar independent estimate for a place that looks promising for us. Purchase price of ~$180k with a rehab cost of ~$45 - 55k. Estimates of final street value based on comps are around ~$270 - 285k. The neighborhood isn't a lightning bolt, but 5-8% appreciation is happening each year due to a solid location. These are homes built in the 1950's in the neighborhood of 3BR / 2BTH with 2200sqft.

Questions:

So - HOW BEST TO SPEND THE MONEY? I am somewhat old school and like to avoid paying more interest than necessary. I am currently considering

putting 20% down and paying for the rehab up-front. This would be around $40k for the downpayment & fees and around $45-55k for the work - the remaining ~$145k or so would be financed (maybe a 15-year loan??).

With my available time, the workforce and my friend to help with the GC work from time to time (he'd just be a few streets away), we're thinking a 5-month rehab time frame is more than do-able. We're looking at living there for at least

2 years (5 years at the most) to capitalize on the gain in equity.

1.) What are your thoughts on my allocation of capital $$? I'm purposely limiting the monthly house note to a point that jives with our most conservative monthly income estimate. I don't want the stress of having to stretch to make payments.

2.) Help me get ready? I'd greatly appreciate some help in creating a laundry list of "To-Do's" before getting started (arrange for loan approval, inspection, etc.)

3.) Any other thoughts / concerns?

Thanks again

TOADS
A couple thoughts - Mike's done a very good job answering this question, I'm going to chime in with some financing thoughts as that's what I do.1. Talk to a local mortgage lender about a rehab loan. The process works something like this: $180k sales price, you put 20% down. You get an appraisal done that is assuming the work on the property is already done, and you get a bid from a licensed contractor. If the work is going to cost $50k, and the property is going to be worth more than $230k when you're finished, the bank is cool with that. You turn all of that into the lender, and they will actually pay the builder for you on set timelines - something that, in your case, I believe would be a very good thing for a couple reasons.

#1 - This gives you a great excuse if the wife starts to add a bunch of stuff and wants to change things - "Honey, we already made this decision, and it's out of our hands now." (Since the guy's your buddy, I'm sure you can work something out if you really need an extra)

#2 - You don't stretch yourself completely thin. Cash is good.

#3 - This requires you to do all of your homework before taking on the project - not only do it, but put it on paper and prove to someone else that it's a project worth taking on - if the bank doesn't want to loan on it, that's good info for you to have right there.

There are two "closings" on a rehab loan, but if you go through a good lender, there is actually only one loan involved. With certain lenders, you don't get to lock in your rate until the project is complete. You don't want that. The first "closing" is when you buy the property and work gets started. You are charged the payment on your original loan monthly, and typically are given the option to either pay interest only on the draws to the contractor as you go, or roll that interest into the final mortgage balance. After the work is done, the loans consolidate into one with a pre-determined interest rate, and you go from there. At that point in time you can decide to put extra money in your property should you choose.

There's so many things going on in here that I've got no idea if I answered any of your questions or not, but feel free to fire away with more.
Proninja hit this one. I'll add on.A local bank is probably your best answer here - but it is NOT called a "rehab" loan by most banks. This is a CONSTRUCTION loan, despite the fact that you're not really building anything new - just renovating.

This is a case of the lender having a product that fits your needs but labelled a different thing - not an issue if you understand what to ask for.

CONSTRUCTION loans are 2-stage loans with draws. You submit to the lender what you're buying the house for and what your rehabs are going to be and when. Break it up into 3 or 4 "draws" where once each step gets completed, it is funded from the bank.

Example:

Acquisition cost is $170K. That and closing are funded at closing, with you putting 20% down. $175K for example, $35K down.

Rehab begins. Probably going to have to give some $$ to your GC (NOT TOO MUCH - no more than 1/2 of a draw) to get started.

First draw checklist from your SOW is done. Bank pays you, you pay GC.

Continue until all work is done.

If you've set up your draws to be under $15K each, you're out no more than $8K at a time during rehab and you are also only out $35K for your down payment.

When you are all finished, the bank funds the last draw and you have a loan for $170K plus $50K. A (virtually) new home for $220K where you have only $35K invested in it (16%). Doubtful you'll even pay PMI since the house will be worth $275K.

That's the way to go.

 
Networking is one of the most important keys to success in flipping.
Ultimately the business is about relationships and people. Treat EVERYONE you deal with fairly and equitably and everyone remains happy. "Win win" and you'll do more than just one deal with these people.....
 
Networking is one of the most important keys to success in flipping.
Ultimately the business is about relationships and people. Treat EVERYONE you deal with fairly and equitably and everyone remains happy. "Win win" and you'll do more than just one deal with these people.....
And the more deals you do with these people, the better they'll treat you and the more favors you'll get.If I know you're going to buy six houses in a year, you're going to get a screaming deal on the third, fourth, and fifth loans. That's a customer I don't want to give any reason to leave.
Looks like I need to buy in Seattle :) .
 
First, when renting out your own home, you can throw the fair housing stuff out the window, and you can discriminate.  Just like a FSBO can opt to only sell to a Catholic Family, you have tons of leash here.
This only applies if you are living in the premise and some smaller multi-family. A FSBO can not discriminate unless they want to face a $10,000 fine.
Bass, When the Wife and I took Real Estate class, it was driven into our heads that one of the advantages of a FSBO is that you could discriminate. The example of only selling to a Catholic Family was the exact example used.

The exemptions to the Fair Housing Laws are:

* FSBO of a Single family home where no more than 3 homes are owned and no sales person is used.

* 2-4 Unit Owner Occupied -No exemption for Race ever here.

* Building owned by a Church can rent to members of the Church exclusively

* Private Club may rent to only members, but rentals cannot be the primary source of income.

* Housing for the Elderly only if all current occupants are 62 or older, or 80% of the Units have one resident age 55 and older, or Government subsidized Senior Housing.

I don't have a site. I am pulling this from my notes, but it is also on page 265 of Real Estate Fundamentals sixth edition by Gaddy and Hart.

 
Thanks for the suggestions/advice. Seems like it's a good idea as I can't think of anything that would discourage me from doing it at this point. The air force base is a very stable one and it's unlikely it'd be shutdown anytime soon, so I feel that the location is probably pretty good. The house is 3/2 with 2 car garage and a nice sized fenced in backyard. Quite a few new houses are being built in the subdivision as well so I think there will be continued growth there, and it's in a good school district.

Anyways, thanks for the input, it's well appreciated.
You do not want a rental that you can not easily visit in the future. Not every property manager is going to be Bass. There are some true losers out there. Lots of them.I will restate and jump on Bass's comments:

Work out all the details ahead of time. You need a security deposit. You won't subsidize your buddies living arrangements, here are the rules, etc.....

Once the Honeymoon stage is over, it can really suck if you guys didn't each protect yourself. Worst case each side: They get pissed, move out, MAYBE you can recoup some money taking your best friends to court, most likely they walk scott free. You can lose everything, and declare bankruptcy.
Thanks for the extra info. I think after reading a lot of the advice here and thinking on my own, I'm going to look at just buying it myself and not worry about getting a roomate(s). The two students I would've gone in with couldn't go above a certain price, which basically wouldn't be that good for me...although it would help. I'd be sacrificing tons of privacy and freedom to have them do that and for me it's just not worth it.

I contacted about 6 different mortgage bankers today and got about 6 different opinions on the types of loans I should be considering. My credit scores are all good (average of 765 from all 3) but there seems to be no stellar option for me.

I've looked at 100% financing, FHA loans that require 3% down, 100% financing with lender paying the PMI but with a .5% higher interest rate (which somehow ends up requiring a lower monthly rate than .5% lower rate and me paying PMI myself) and other loans with rates varying from 6.125 to 7.35...bah.

Geez, my head is swimming, too many options...anyone have any advice on how to make a decision on the type of loan I'm looking for? Good credit, not a lot of money to put down, first time homeowner...any advice?

 
Thanks for the suggestions/advice. Seems like it's a good idea as I can't think of anything that would discourage me from doing it at this point. The air force base is a very stable one and it's unlikely it'd be shutdown anytime soon, so I feel that the location is probably pretty good. The house is 3/2 with 2 car garage and a nice sized fenced in backyard. Quite a few new houses are being built in the subdivision as well so I think there will be continued growth there, and it's in a good school district.

Anyways, thanks for the input, it's well appreciated.
You do not want a rental that you can not easily visit in the future. Not every property manager is going to be Bass. There are some true losers out there. Lots of them.I will restate and jump on Bass's comments:

Work out all the details ahead of time. You need a security deposit. You won't subsidize your buddies living arrangements, here are the rules, etc.....

Once the Honeymoon stage is over, it can really suck if you guys didn't each protect yourself. Worst case each side: They get pissed, move out, MAYBE you can recoup some money taking your best friends to court, most likely they walk scott free. You can lose everything, and declare bankruptcy.
Thanks for the extra info. I think after reading a lot of the advice here and thinking on my own, I'm going to look at just buying it myself and not worry about getting a roomate(s). The two students I would've gone in with couldn't go above a certain price, which basically wouldn't be that good for me...although it would help. I'd be sacrificing tons of privacy and freedom to have them do that and for me it's just not worth it.

I contacted about 6 different mortgage bankers today and got about 6 different opinions on the types of loans I should be considering. My credit scores are all good (average of 765 from all 3) but there seems to be no stellar option for me.

I've looked at 100% financing, FHA loans that require 3% down, 100% financing with lender paying the PMI but with a .5% higher interest rate (which somehow ends up requiring a lower monthly rate than .5% lower rate and me paying PMI myself) and other loans with rates varying from 6.125 to 7.35...bah.

Geez, my head is swimming, too many options...anyone have any advice on how to make a decision on the type of loan I'm looking for? Good credit, not a lot of money to put down, first time homeowner...any advice?
proninja's radar should have gone off by now :) .Determine how much $$ you want to keep in your pocket and what that's worth to you. For me, I want cash - so I finance as much as I can. That allows me for "capital improvements" - which in your case would be buying stuff for the house.

100% financing as long as the rate isn't oppressive is how I'd lean.

FHA is also attractive.

But with little $$ to put down and a first time homebuyer, get approved for 100% financing up to a certain amount and get a letter from the broker showing that. (Not a letter signed by the broker - someone with more authority).

 
First, when renting out your own home, you can throw the fair housing stuff out the window, and you can discriminate.  Just like a FSBO can opt to only sell to a Catholic Family, you have tons of leash here.
This only applies if you are living in the premise and some smaller multi-family. A FSBO can not discriminate unless they want to face a $10,000 fine.
Bass, When the Wife and I took Real Estate class, it was driven into our heads that one of the advantages of a FSBO is that you could discriminate. The example of only selling to a Catholic Family was the exact example used.

The exemptions to the Fair Housing Laws are:

* FSBO of a Single family home where no more than 3 homes are owned and no sales person is used.

* 2-4 Unit Owner Occupied -No exemption for Race ever here.

* Building owned by a Church can rent to members of the Church exclusively

* Private Club may rent to only members, but rentals cannot be the primary source of income.

* Housing for the Elderly only if all current occupants are 62 or older, or 80% of the Units have one resident age 55 and older, or Government subsidized Senior Housing.

I don't have a site. I am pulling this from my notes, but it is also on page 265 of Real Estate Fundamentals sixth edition by Gaddy and Hart.
Mike,That applies to the 1968 Federal Fair Housing Act only. Our state act is much narrower and doesn't exempt the sale of a private or single-family home under any circumstance. Furthermore, the Federal Civil Rights Act of 1866 declares, without exception, that "all citizens of the US shall have the same right, in every state and territory, as is enjoyed by white citizens thereof, to inherit, purchase, lease, sell, hold, and convey real and personal property.

 
For those people renting out units, I stumbbed across this:

Screening for good tenants has always been important. Since 9/11/01, preventive measures against terrorism are especially important. It is now recommended by Attorney Robert Friedman, author of How To Survive Legally as a Landlord, that landlords should update some of their screening policies. As a landlord, you are not prohibited from discriminating on the basis of citizenship. Asking for documentation of citizenship or immigration status does not violate fair housing laws. You probably know however, that all applicants should be treated the same. What you may NOT know is that Pursuant to Executive Order 13224, all U.S. citizens and organizations are prohibited from any business transaction with any person or entity on the United States Treasury Office of Foreign Assets Control's, Specially Designated Nationals and Blocked Persons List (SDN List). The SDN list contains the names of persons deemed to be involved in money laundering, drug trafficking, terrorism or terrorist financing. Landlords, property managers and brokers must check present and prospective tenant's names against the SDN list. Records must be saved for five years. For violations, the criminal penalties are $50,000 to $10,000,000; imprisonment for 10 to 30 years and civilpenalties up to $1,000,000. The SDN list can be viewed at -http://www.ustreas.gov/offices/enforcement/ofac/sdn/It is also suggested that landlords add the following questionto their rental applications:Are you or any member of your household a SDN or other Blocked Person designated by the U.S. government as a person who commits or supports terrorism or is involved in international narcotics trafficking?* In, addition, leases should provide that the resident represents that he or she is not on the SDN list, authorizes additional periodic SDN checks, and permits the landlord to terminate the lease for terrorist or other criminal activity.How would you like to have rented to the pilot of one of the planes that took out the twin towers and they wanted to make an example of you?I couldn't take 10 Million in fines, 30 years in jail, and another 1 Million per victim, or however they let it happen.  YIKES!!!
Mike...do you have a link on this?
Bass, that was sent to me in an Email form. I deleted the Email, but I am trying to get another copy from the service so I can forward it to you.I did find the Executive order in full at

http://www.state.gov/s/ct/rls/fs/2002/16181.htm

Looks like the 4th bullet point down about can't provide services to anyone on the list is the point that applies to us, although I didn't see the penalties in this order, and it must be in the earlier order that is referenced.

 
This house next door to mine was sold yesterday. GF and I want to know who bought it. We've never seen anyone go in and are curious.

Any links I could use to find out who they are?

TIA
It will be a month or so at minimum before any major database will be updated. Your best bet is to go down to Records department and look it up. However, if it just sold yesterday, it still might not be entered straight away.
 

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