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Personal Finance Advice and Education! (3 Viewers)

cubd8 said:
So, definitely a personal finance question, but also a life question and looking for any wisdom/advice.

long story short, girl friend lives in Denver; I'm in the Chicago area; We've continued to see each other since she moved, but distance (and other factors) have created some issues in our relationship.

We both agree we need to spend more time together, but I'm against staying in Denver for longer than 2 weeks at a time (she had suggested 1 month) given that we have had issues of late. I'm also not ready to move to Denver.

She currently rents, I currently own a condo (no renting allowed) where I have a great interest rate (2.12% on a 15 year with about 13.5 years remaining).  I have a job in the Chicago area where I have to make appearances from time to time, she is full time remote in Denver. She moved there to be around her 2 brothers and loves nature.

I have suggested that she consider moving back to Chicago, but she wants to stay in Denver. I may ask that she comes to Chicago for longer periods (I do 95% of the traveling today to Denver) to help bridge the gap as well.

I am planning to suggest longer stays (2 week stays), plus a vacation later this year (we haven't done that before) AND asking her to come to Chicago more often. I am not ready to move Denver, but also understand she wants to stay and am willing to consider moving there, but I don't think we're ready for that yet, nor can we ignore finances - I own a condo with a historically low interest rate and have a job I need to be somewhat present for (I have a team that reports to me, but we are mainly remote). She doesn't have a mortgage - is just renting - and has the fully remote job. To me, this is somewhat simple. If distance is one of the issues (which I agree that it is), come to Chicago more often.

In the meantime, I am not going to commit to moving to Denver for the time being and am not going to be put any time frame on it if we are struggling to spend shorter time together. I think we need to reset our relationship and see if we can make it through this period.

Saying a lot above to give some context and happy too address any questions.....

Looking for any general advice on how to handle this from a financial standpoint. She rents, I own. How do we even consider a future together with our current commitments, I am at a place in my life where I don't want to rent, just own.

Any ways to make the relationship work while we are distant other than what I have suggested? Am what I am suggesting reasonable?
She made her decision. And I don't blame her for wanting to get out of Chicago and not wanting to move from Denver (or even to go to Chicago with more regularity).

I'd move on w/o hesitation. I'd say no to your request(s). I relocated for similar reasons to her (the outdoors/leave the cold) and nothing would get me to return to Midwest/Chicago more than once/twice a year to see family.

Maybe she's happier in Denver :shrug: and not the one. If owning and being apart trumps all, then it wasn't meant to be. She works remote and decided to move away. I'd have broken things off then and there but....

 
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Man, Chicago low-key getting annihilated in here. I spent 2 years there and don't super want to go back, but it's got tons of upsides and an amazing (if overly brief) summer. Beats any northeast city IMO.

 
if she moved and you didn't even have a plan for how this would work, i wouldn't even be thinking about anything with finances or housing.  figure out what this relationship really is and whether it will last and then go from there.

 
cubd8 said:
So, definitely a personal finance question, but also a life question and looking for any wisdom/advice.

long story short, girl friend lives in Denver; I'm in the Chicago area; We've continued to see each other since she moved, but distance (and other factors) have created some issues in our relationship.

We both agree we need to spend more time together, but I'm against staying in Denver for longer than 2 weeks at a time (she had suggested 1 month) given that we have had issues of late. I'm also not ready to move to Denver.

She currently rents, I currently own a condo (no renting allowed) where I have a great interest rate (2.12% on a 15 year with about 13.5 years remaining).  I have a job in the Chicago area where I have to make appearances from time to time, she is full time remote in Denver. She moved there to be around her 2 brothers and loves nature.

I have suggested that she consider moving back to Chicago, but she wants to stay in Denver. I may ask that she comes to Chicago for longer periods (I do 95% of the traveling today to Denver) to help bridge the gap as well.

I am planning to suggest longer stays (2 week stays), plus a vacation later this year (we haven't done that before) AND asking her to come to Chicago more often. I am not ready to move Denver, but also understand she wants to stay and am willing to consider moving there, but I don't think we're ready for that yet, nor can we ignore finances - I own a condo with a historically low interest rate and have a job I need to be somewhat present for (I have a team that reports to me, but we are mainly remote). She doesn't have a mortgage - is just renting - and has the fully remote job. To me, this is somewhat simple. If distance is one of the issues (which I agree that it is), come to Chicago more often.

In the meantime, I am not going to commit to moving to Denver for the time being and am not going to be put any time frame on it if we are struggling to spend shorter time together. I think we need to reset our relationship and see if we can make it through this period.

Saying a lot above to give some context and happy too address any questions.....

Looking for any general advice on how to handle this from a financial standpoint. She rents, I own. How do we even consider a future together with our current commitments, I am at a place in my life where I don't want to rent, just own.

Any ways to make the relationship work while we are distant other than what I have suggested? Am what I am suggesting reasonable?
If she isn't willing to visit Chicago more then I would seriously question how serious she was to you or how selfish. I mean, the majority you traveling to her is fine but 95% is silly unless that is what you wanted to do.

The other part is the "having issues"... if you are having issues and on top of that the long distance that isn't working out... seems like it is time to walk. 

 
Man, Chicago low-key getting annihilated in here. I spent 2 years there and don't super want to go back, but it's got tons of upsides and an amazing (if overly brief) summer. Beats any northeast city IMO.
I talk to people about their living situation and plans on a daily basis (I am a mortgage broker) and almost everyone wants to move out of Illinois and it is more of a question of why they can't or can't now type of thing. I will jave a hige celebration when I am able to leave this state behind. Yes, there are good things but there are a ton of reasons wjy thia state is bleeding population.

 
Man, Chicago low-key getting annihilated in here. I spent 2 years there and don't super want to go back, but it's got tons of upsides and an amazing (if overly brief) summer. Beats any northeast city IMO.
It’s fine but I’d take Indy over it. Maybe Ann Arbor too.   But then Northeast is a key limiter there.  

 
pollardsvision said:
And vice versa. His hold up is the sweet mortgage rate. 

And this very  much is a personal finance question. One of the biggest financial mistakes we can make is hanging on to a relationship that just isn't right for too long. 
A nice mortgage shouldn't be the decider in where one lives, either.  

 
Tips on insurance shopping? Feeling like we could certainly save money on auto and probably would like to shop the home as well as add umbrella.

 
:clap:  July was quite nice. Back over the “magic number” in retirement accounts, and just under a 0.33% monthly / 4% annual withdrawal rate (if we were to be retired). 6% return in a dead cat bounce or Whatever we call it. 
Average month expense-wise. next month is going to be more expensive with paying for October’s vacation house rental and hopefully my bike repair. 

 
Tips on insurance shopping? Feeling like we could certainly save money on auto and probably would like to shop the home as well as add umbrella.
I am a big fan of insurance brokers. Like mortgage brokers, they shop many insurance carriers for you. The thing with insurance is that they will lower and raise rates as they go, so you want to shop ideally every year but most of us don't. A broker will do that for you at your request and you keep the same relationship even if another carrier is better... plus, they are shopping real apples to apples. I have talked to A LOT of insurance people over the years... most are little more than specialized sales people. My insurance broker is by far the most knowledgeable I have ever talked to and it isn't close. With claims, the broker actually has more leverage than a captive agent. A captive agent has ZERO pull with their company while a broker basically can tell them, look, pay up or you are not getting any of my business anymore.


100% stay away from the Allstate and State Farm. Horrible reputations on claims (experienced personally with Allstate) and usually over priced.
 
I’ve been looking at potential tax savings as my daughter enters college. There is an AOTC that I think I will qualify for, but it starts to phase out if you AGI is over $80K. I am having to bump my 401K contribution to make sure I stay under 80K. I also need to make sure I don’t have any capital gains that would throw me over the limit. Any money in my taxable account is likely going to have to stay there until 2024. Anything else that I missed that I should be thinking about?
 
So, definitely a personal finance question, but also a life question and looking for any wisdom/advice.

long story short, girl friend lives in Denver; I'm in the Chicago area; We've continued to see each other since she moved, but distance (and other factors) have created some issues in our relationship.

We both agree we need to spend more time together, but I'm against staying in Denver for longer than 2 weeks at a time (she had suggested 1 month) given that we have had issues of late. I'm also not ready to move to Denver.

She currently rents, I currently own a condo (no renting allowed) where I have a great interest rate (2.12% on a 15 year with about 13.5 years remaining). I have a job in the Chicago area where I have to make appearances from time to time, she is full time remote in Denver. She moved there to be around her 2 brothers and loves nature.

I have suggested that she consider moving back to Chicago, but she wants to stay in Denver. I may ask that she comes to Chicago for longer periods (I do 95% of the traveling today to Denver) to help bridge the gap as well.

I am planning to suggest longer stays (2 week stays), plus a vacation later this year (we haven't done that before) AND asking her to come to Chicago more often. I am not ready to move Denver, but also understand she wants to stay and am willing to consider moving there, but I don't think we're ready for that yet, nor can we ignore finances - I own a condo with a historically low interest rate and have a job I need to be somewhat present for (I have a team that reports to me, but we are mainly remote). She doesn't have a mortgage - is just renting - and has the fully remote job. To me, this is somewhat simple. If distance is one of the issues (which I agree that it is), come to Chicago more often.

In the meantime, I am not going to commit to moving to Denver for the time being and am not going to be put any time frame on it if we are struggling to spend shorter time together. I think we need to reset our relationship and see if we can make it through this period.

Saying a lot above to give some context and happy too address any questions.....

Looking for any general advice on how to handle this from a financial standpoint. She rents, I own. How do we even consider a future together with our current commitments, I am at a place in my life where I don't want to rent, just own.

Any ways to make the relationship work while we are distant other than what I have suggested? Am what I am suggesting reasonable?
Well, lemme give you my 2-cents worth. I moved from Boston to Denver last October. Denver has its good points.... the climate here being one of the strongest points I can name. But lemme tell ya, the employment situation here sux compared to Boston. I mean, I have a great resume, lots of experience, and licenses galore. But when I started job-hunting in Denver last fall, I was offering to take a 25% pay cut from my Boston comp, and guess what? I was still pricing myself out of jobs! I finally took a temporary contract at a 35% discount from my Boston comp and no benefits.

Well, I did some job hunting over the summer, then, this year. I found a good head-hunter. In fact, the ONLY head-hunter I have ever had that I really liked. He was based here in Denver, but he wasn't lining up many interviews here in Denver for me. In fact, I don't recall his lining up ANY interviews for me here in Denver. They were all remote positions. I finally came to the conclusion that Denver just doesn't have the caliber of client I was accustomed to dealing with in Boston. But he did hook me up with a really good firm... in CHICAGO, of all places. They wanted me on board very badly and made that pretty obvious. They matched my Boston comp letter-for-letter and threw in unlimited PTO to boot. So I'm now working 100% remote from home, here in Denver, but for a Chicago firm.

I won't get into the other ways in which Boston beats Denver, at least not right now, but there are definitely some things I like much better about Denver over Boston. Again, the climate here being at the top of the list. Oh yeah, traffic is much easier here, too, so there's that. Yup, no one here seems to have heard the term, "Masshole", and whenever I show them this link about driving in Boston, they all think I'm kidding. NOT!!! http://www.masshole.com/driving.html Agree with me, @HellToupee ??

Yup, I'll proudly admit I'm a Masshole. So are my kids. We're a family of Massholes! The three of them all moved with me, and we all had to adjust our driving habits. I mean, within two weeks of moving here, both my daughters (ages 20 & 19) got tickets, one for speeding and the other for running a red light. And just last week, my 22 year-old son got a ticket for making an illegal U-Turn. Such tickets just don't exist in Boston. The police are much more interested in keeping traffic moving. But if you have an accident or hit someone, traffic is getting backed up, anyhow, so they might as well write you a ticket in that case. Out in the 'burbs, though, it's a different story, as many towns use speed traps to raise revenue. So far, the only tickets I have gotten in Denver are for parking on the wrong side of the street on street sweeping day. Though, last week, I did continue straight out of the left-hand turn land, gesturing politely (?) to the oncoming left-hand turn traffic.

Anyhow before you move here, I strongly suggest you check out the employment situation. I foolishly assumed that any big city would certainly have good employment opportunities like what I was used to in Boston. WRONG, WRONG, WRONG!! I was very fortunate to have a very good head-hunter who hooked me up with this Chicago firm. It's an excellent opportunity working with clients that are right down my alley.
 
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Sup guys.

I've been MIA in terms of finance with the market dive. We've also been doing IVF which is a money eater. Hoping over the next few months to have some money to throw into ibonds and our taxable account.
 
Hello - have a question on some stocks/taxes and looking for any pro's/con's:

This year, I have the following stock gains:
Short-term: $3,936.07
Long-term: $5,871.15

Is it safe to estimate that I will owe the following in taxes when I file in 2023?
Short-term: $3,936.07 *.35% = $1,377.60
Long-term: $5,871.15 *.15% = $881.00
Total Tax Bill (Stocks): $2,258.40

Is there anything in the above calculation that would be way off or would this be close to what I should expect?

Assuming the above is within line...

I have one stock that I completely missed on. A tech stock that has crashed by probably 80% on it's 52 week high. I still believe in the company, their quarterly earnings are actually solid, but they were way overvalued and I made a mistake.

I own 35 shares of this company, but 10 of them are very recent at 52 week lows.

My question for 16 of these shares.: They are are long-term shares now, but are down significantly and would probably take years, if ever, to come back from where they were. These 16 shares are currently down $4,132.63.

If I were to sell those 16 shares, can you explain how this would help me come tax time? Can I use this loss to "write-off" the tax gains? If so, how does that work? Can I apply any unused loss to future years?

Also, has mentioned, I recently bought 10 shares from this company. Is there any penalty with selling others? I wouldn't be able to buy for 30 days to avoid any tax penalties. Is that correct?

Bottom line - would selling the below make sense? If not, why? And...is my math right on the tax bill above?
 
Hello - have a question on some stocks/taxes and looking for any pro's/con's:

This year, I have the following stock gains:
Short-term: $3,936.07
Long-term: $5,871.15

Is it safe to estimate that I will owe the following in taxes when I file in 2023?
Short-term: $3,936.07 *.35% = $1,377.60
Long-term: $5,871.15 *.15% = $881.00
Total Tax Bill (Stocks): $2,258.40

Is there anything in the above calculation that would be way off or would this be close to what I should expect?

Assuming the above is within line...

I have one stock that I completely missed on. A tech stock that has crashed by probably 80% on it's 52 week high. I still believe in the company, their quarterly earnings are actually solid, but they were way overvalued and I made a mistake.

I own 35 shares of this company, but 10 of them are very recent at 52 week lows.

My question for 16 of these shares.: They are are long-term shares now, but are down significantly and would probably take years, if ever, to come back from where they were. These 16 shares are currently down $4,132.63.

If I were to sell those 16 shares, can you explain how this would help me come tax time? Can I use this loss to "write-off" the tax gains? If so, how does that work? Can I apply any unused loss to future years?

Also, has mentioned, I recently bought 10 shares from this company. Is there any penalty with selling others? I wouldn't be able to buy for 30 days to avoid any tax penalties. Is that correct?

Bottom line - would selling the below make sense? If not, why? And...is my math right on the tax bill above?
Yes the calculation looks correct. If you sell the 16 shares, you net that loss against your gains. Since loss is long-term, it would offset the long-term gains. So $5,871.15 - $4,132.16 = $1,738.99 x 0.15 = $260.85. So it saves you $420 in taxes.

If you sell, you can’t buy the stock back until 30 days have passed or you can’t take the loss. You also can not have purchased the 10 shares 30 days before you sell. This is the wash sale rule.

If you end the year with a total net loss, you can use $3,000 to reduce your taxable income. Any remaining loss can be carried forward to offset gains in future tax years.

Selling comes down to how bad you want the loss vs. not missing any pop in the stock. You can always buy something close to stay in the market and reverse it after 30 days. Here you could buy a tech ETF (say XLK) as a replacement.
 
Hello - have a question on some stocks/taxes and looking for any pro's/con's:

This year, I have the following stock gains:
Short-term: $3,936.07
Long-term: $5,871.15

Is it safe to estimate that I will owe the following in taxes when I file in 2023?
Short-term: $3,936.07 *.35% = $1,377.60
Long-term: $5,871.15 *.15% = $881.00
Total Tax Bill (Stocks): $2,258.40

Is there anything in the above calculation that would be way off or would this be close to what I should expect?

Assuming the above is within line...

I have one stock that I completely missed on. A tech stock that has crashed by probably 80% on it's 52 week high. I still believe in the company, their quarterly earnings are actually solid, but they were way overvalued and I made a mistake.

I own 35 shares of this company, but 10 of them are very recent at 52 week lows.

My question for 16 of these shares.: They are are long-term shares now, but are down significantly and would probably take years, if ever, to come back from where they were. These 16 shares are currently down $4,132.63.

If I were to sell those 16 shares, can you explain how this would help me come tax time? Can I use this loss to "write-off" the tax gains? If so, how does that work? Can I apply any unused loss to future years?

Also, has mentioned, I recently bought 10 shares from this company. Is there any penalty with selling others? I wouldn't be able to buy for 30 days to avoid any tax penalties. Is that correct?

Bottom line - would selling the below make sense? If not, why? And...is my math right on the tax bill above?
Yes the calculation looks correct. If you sell the 16 shares, you net that loss against your gains. Since loss is long-term, it would offset the long-term gains. So $5,871.15 - $4,132.16 = $1,738.99 x 0.15 = $260.85. So it saves you $420 in taxes.

If you sell, you can’t buy the stock back until 30 days have passed or you can’t take the loss. You also can not have purchased the 10 shares 30 days before you sell. This is the wash sale rule.

If you end the year with a total net loss, you can use $3,000 to reduce your taxable income. Any remaining loss can be carried forward to offset gains in future tax years.

Selling comes down to how bad you want the loss vs. not missing any pop in the stock. You can always buy something close to stay in the market and reverse it after 30 days. Here you could buy a tech ETF (say XLK) as a replacement.

How do you get to the $420 in tax savings ? Just so I understand is that $420 savings from the check I'll have to write for $2258 so I would still owe around $1800 ?? If so, I was probably not fully understanding how this was writing off so your explanation will be helpful. If I am saving only $420 why would it make sense to just not keep the stocks and play the very long game here and hope I recoup some of that $4100 loss?

Since I bought 10 shares in the last week though, I should wait 30 days from the last purchase though before making any moves with these stocks even if I'm not selling the ones I just bought?
 
Sup guys.

I've been MIA in terms of finance with the market dive. We've also been doing IVF which is a money eater. Hoping over the next few months to have some money to throw into ibonds and our taxable account.
The ultimate financial lose-lose. If it works you spend your life savings at Babies R Us. If you don't you hand over massive sums for more IVF. ;)

I hope you get the first, GB.
 
Been doing some number crunching for what I *think* our end of year taxes will look like (I’m commission based, so a good sale or two can totally throw things for a loop).

A question has come up that I’m trying to wrap my head around - if you aren’t eligible for the full IRA deduction due to too high of a MAGI, is it worth doing?

My hope has been to max out contributions to my 401k, wife’s 403b (she’s very limited to what she can actually put away - 4% of income I believe), and our HSAs in an effort to reduce as much taxable income in the 22% tax bracket as possible. Was hoping that IRAs for both of us would further help, but if MAGI is too high it’s no longer deductible. Am I missing anything?
 
Been doing some number crunching for what I *think* our end of year taxes will look like (I’m commission based, so a good sale or two can totally throw things for a loop).

A question has come up that I’m trying to wrap my head around - if you aren’t eligible for the full IRA deduction due to too high of a MAGI, is it worth doing?

My hope has been to max out contributions to my 401k, wife’s 403b (she’s very limited to what she can actually put away - 4% of income I believe), and our HSAs in an effort to reduce as much taxable income in the 22% tax bracket as possible. Was hoping that IRAs for both of us would further help, but if MAGI is too high it’s no longer deductible. Am I missing anything?
If you or your wife do not currently have any traditional, SEP or SIMPLE IRA accounts a backdoor Roth would be worth considering even though it will not save you any tax in 2022. If the backdoor Roth is not an option, I personally would not make a non-deductible traditional contribution for two reasons. First, the recordkeeping of non-deductible contributions and eventual distributions on Form 8606 is somewhat of a hassle. More importantly, any earnings on a non-deductible contribution will eventually be taxed as ordinary income when withdrawn and will be subject to required distributions at 72. The same amount invested in a taxable account will most likely be a long-term capital gain.

The non-deductible contribution may make sense if you were doing frequent short-term trading because the gains would be deferred.
 
Thanks. Both wife and I have retirement plans available through work, so I guess that’s not an option. Mine is a 401k (with Roth option), hers is a 403b. I guess it will all come down to end of the year calculations to see where we fall. If able to fully deduct, we’d like to both max out an IRA as well.
 
Hello - have a question on some stocks/taxes and looking for any pro's/con's:

This year, I have the following stock gains:
Short-term: $3,936.07
Long-term: $5,871.15

Is it safe to estimate that I will owe the following in taxes when I file in 2023?
Short-term: $3,936.07 *.35% = $1,377.60
Long-term: $5,871.15 *.15% = $881.00
Total Tax Bill (Stocks): $2,258.40

Is there anything in the above calculation that would be way off or would this be close to what I should expect?

Assuming the above is within line...

I have one stock that I completely missed on. A tech stock that has crashed by probably 80% on it's 52 week high. I still believe in the company, their quarterly earnings are actually solid, but they were way overvalued and I made a mistake.

I own 35 shares of this company, but 10 of them are very recent at 52 week lows.

My question for 16 of these shares.: They are are long-term shares now, but are down significantly and would probably take years, if ever, to come back from where they were. These 16 shares are currently down $4,132.63.

If I were to sell those 16 shares, can you explain how this would help me come tax time? Can I use this loss to "write-off" the tax gains? If so, how does that work? Can I apply any unused loss to future years?

Also, has mentioned, I recently bought 10 shares from this company. Is there any penalty with selling others? I wouldn't be able to buy for 30 days to avoid any tax penalties. Is that correct?

Bottom line - would selling the below make sense? If not, why? And...is my math right on the tax bill above?
Yes the calculation looks correct. If you sell the 16 shares, you net that loss against your gains. Since loss is long-term, it would offset the long-term gains. So $5,871.15 - $4,132.16 = $1,738.99 x 0.15 = $260.85. So it saves you $420 in taxes.

If you sell, you can’t buy the stock back until 30 days have passed or you can’t take the loss. You also can not have purchased the 10 shares 30 days before you sell. This is the wash sale rule.

If you end the year with a total net loss, you can use $3,000 to reduce your taxable income. Any remaining loss can be carried forward to offset gains in future tax years.

Selling comes down to how bad you want the loss vs. not missing any pop in the stock. You can always buy something close to stay in the market and reverse it after 30 days. Here you could buy a tech ETF (say XLK) as a replacement.

How do you get to the $420 in tax savings ? Just so I understand is that $420 savings from the check I'll have to write for $2258 so I would still owe around $1800 ?? If so, I was probably not fully understanding how this was writing off so your explanation will be helpful. If I am saving only $420 why would it make sense to just not keep the stocks and play the very long game here and hope I recoup some of that $4100 loss?

Since I bought 10 shares in the last week though, I should wait 30 days from the last purchase though before making any moves with these stocks even if I'm not selling the ones I just bought?
So, you gave us this for realized gains and taxes to be paid.

Short-term: $3,936.07 *.35% = $1,377.60
Long-term: $5,871.15 *.15% = $881.00
Total Tax Bill (Stocks): $2,258.40

If you sell the 16 shares at a $4,132.63 loss, you can offset your long-term gain. Your net long-term gain is now $5,871.15 - $4,132.63 = $1,738.52. Your tax bill would be $1,738.52 * 0.15 = $260.78. So your long-term capital gain taxes are reduced from $881.00 to $260.78, or $620.22 in savings. I have no idea where I got $420; that's what I get for doing this on a phone originally and winging the math in my head.

At this point your total tax bill would be the $1,377.60 in short-term capital gains taxes and $260.78 in long-term capital gains taxes. You would write a check for $1,638.38. Hopefully I did all the math right this time.

Yes, if you bought new shares 10 days ago, you can't sell the shares to recognize the loss until 30 days have passed. If you want to play the long game on the stock, just buy back the 16 shares after 30 days have passed from the sale.
 
Dumb question/situation but I wanted to confirm…

I’m probably going to move money in a savings account from my main credit union to an existing high yield online account (different bank). It’s a decent amount of five figures. I know this obviously isn’t a taxable event but is it something that will be tracked or will I get questioned on later?
 
Dumb question/situation but I wanted to confirm…

I’m probably going to move money in a savings account from my main credit union to an existing high yield online account (different bank). It’s a decent amount of five figures. I know this obviously isn’t a taxable event but is it something that will be tracked or will I get questioned on later?
No
 
Dumb question/situation but I wanted to confirm…

I’m probably going to move money in a savings account from my main credit union to an existing high yield online account (different bank). It’s a decent amount of five figures. I know this obviously isn’t a taxable event but is it something that will be tracked or will I get questioned on later?
No, as there will be a 'paper trail' for it even if done electronically. If you took out cash and deposited cash then you need to file a CTR (cash transaction report) which some people freak out about but is really nothing if everything is legit and is simply creating a papertrail where there isn't any because it is cash.
 
New CPI will drop on the 13th and people can calculate the next I-bond rate.

Going to try to buy the rest of our yearly allotment before the end of October.
 
Dumb question/situation but I wanted to confirm…

I’m probably going to move money in a savings account from my main credit union to an existing high yield online account (different bank). It’s a decent amount of five figures. I know this obviously isn’t a taxable event but is it something that will be tracked or will I get questioned on later?
No, as there will be a 'paper trail' for it even if done electronically. If you took out cash and deposited cash then you need to file a CTR (cash transaction report) which some people freak out about but is really nothing if everything is legit and is simply creating a papertrail where there isn't any because it is cash.
I had never heard of this and googled. This is done by the bank and they don't tell you unless you ask.
 
CPI dropped.

Next I bond rate will be 8.21%

I see 6.48% reported online at Barron's and WSJ.

Yeah, 8.21% is the average yield for the whole year.
I see that now.

I went to the Bogleheads forum page on I-bonds, and saw the 8.21. But you're right it looks like that's the average yield.

6.48% still very solid.

Gonna get the rest of my 2022 allotment in the coming days. Would be nice if the next round had a fixed component to it.
 
There might be a fixed component for iBonds bought after November 1 too. I assume many of us will buy in January.
Not sure it is enough of a spread over the 1 year to make it worth it anymore.
Yes but the fixed component lasts for 30 years. Who knows what the future holds. We may see near zero rates again.
Won't the fixed component still be zero?
Possibly not for new bonds purchased after November 1. But we don’t know yet.

Here’s an article: https://seekingalpha.com/article/4546408-i-bonds-what-next
 
Dumb question/situation but I wanted to confirm…

I’m probably going to move money in a savings account from my main credit union to an existing high yield online account (different bank). It’s a decent amount of five figures. I know this obviously isn’t a taxable event but is it something that will be tracked or will I get questioned on later?
No, as there will be a 'paper trail' for it even if done electronically. If you took out cash and deposited cash then you need to file a CTR (cash transaction report) which some people freak out about but is really nothing if everything is legit and is simply creating a papertrail where there isn't any because it is cash.
I had never heard of this and googled. This is done by the bank and they don't tell you unless you ask.
A CTR is not secret but not advertised either. The teller or banker will not say "Ok, I need to file a CTR..." they will just filing it and filling it out with asking questions and as you said, if asked they will let you know they are filing a report that is required by Federal law. Again, a CTR is not anything to worry about if all is legit though people freak out about it.... especially people who normally do not deposit or withdraw those amounts of cash regularly.

The thing you DO NOT want to be filed and that you would never know it has been filed is a SAR (Suspicious Activity Report). A SAR can be filed for various reasons such you go to deposit or withdraw over $10K, find out about the CTR and then change the deposit or withdraw to be under the $10K, if it looks like you are structuring (depositing/withdrawing multiple transactions to get under the $10K limit but you are actually over it) or pretty much for any reason that the transaction is suspicious. These are filed after you leave and the employees are required to not talk about it or mention it to you in any way, shape or form. You will never know about it.
 
Dumb question/situation but I wanted to confirm…

I’m probably going to move money in a savings account from my main credit union to an existing high yield online account (different bank). It’s a decent amount of five figures. I know this obviously isn’t a taxable event but is it something that will be tracked or will I get questioned on later?
No, as there will be a 'paper trail' for it even if done electronically. If you took out cash and deposited cash then you need to file a CTR (cash transaction report) which some people freak out about but is really nothing if everything is legit and is simply creating a papertrail where there isn't any because it is cash.
I had never heard of this and googled. This is done by the bank and they don't tell you unless you ask.
A CTR is not secret but not advertised either. The teller or banker will not say "Ok, I need to file a CTR..." they will just filing it and filling it out with asking questions and as you said, if asked they will let you know they are filing a report that is required by Federal law. Again, a CTR is not anything to worry about if all is legit though people freak out about it.... especially people who normally do not deposit or withdraw those amounts of cash regularly.

The thing you DO NOT want to be filed and that you would never know it has been filed is a SAR (Suspicious Activity Report). A SAR can be filed for various reasons such you go to deposit or withdraw over $10K, find out about the CTR and then change the deposit or withdraw to be under the $10K, if it looks like you are structuring (depositing/withdrawing multiple transactions to get under the $10K limit but you are actually over it) or pretty much for any reason that the transaction is suspicious. These are filed after you leave and the employees are required to not talk about it or mention it to you in any way, shape or form. You will never know about it.
Right, if you're doing nothing illegal you don't have anything to worry about. Your initial post made it seem like this was something the customer needed to file, I was just clarifying that this is all happening on the back end.
 
Dumb question/situation but I wanted to confirm…

I’m probably going to move money in a savings account from my main credit union to an existing high yield online account (different bank). It’s a decent amount of five figures. I know this obviously isn’t a taxable event but is it something that will be tracked or will I get questioned on later?
No, as there will be a 'paper trail' for it even if done electronically. If you took out cash and deposited cash then you need to file a CTR (cash transaction report) which some people freak out about but is really nothing if everything is legit and is simply creating a papertrail where there isn't any because it is cash.
I had never heard of this and googled. This is done by the bank and they don't tell you unless you ask.
A CTR is not secret but not advertised either. The teller or banker will not say "Ok, I need to file a CTR..." they will just filing it and filling it out with asking questions and as you said, if asked they will let you know they are filing a report that is required by Federal law. Again, a CTR is not anything to worry about if all is legit though people freak out about it.... especially people who normally do not deposit or withdraw those amounts of cash regularly.

The thing you DO NOT want to be filed and that you would never know it has been filed is a SAR (Suspicious Activity Report). A SAR can be filed for various reasons such you go to deposit or withdraw over $10K, find out about the CTR and then change the deposit or withdraw to be under the $10K, if it looks like you are structuring (depositing/withdrawing multiple transactions to get under the $10K limit but you are actually over it) or pretty much for any reason that the transaction is suspicious. These are filed after you leave and the employees are required to not talk about it or mention it to you in any way, shape or form. You will never know about it.
Right, if you're doing nothing illegal you don't have anything to worry about. Your initial post made it seem like this was something the customer needed to file, I was just clarifying that this is all happening on the back end.
:lmao: I reread what I wrote and see what you mean. I guess after all those years working for banks my head is still in the "you" as the banker.
 
I bond. I buy before months end and I get 9.62% for the first 6 months, then the rate drops to 6.48% for the next 6 months? Then whatever it is thereafter, and I can redeem after a year with the penalty being last 3 months of interest? Sounds like a heck of a deal.
It’s the best deal there is. Guaranteed 9.6% is wild. 6.48 still amazing for bonds in general.

Liquidity is the issue. But don’t put in more than you can do without for the next year.

A friend made the argument, the market is so down, he wants to put all of his coin into discounted stocks. Which is also smart.

But I’ll take 20K (wife and I) at 9.6% any time it’s offered.
 
Dumb question/situation but I wanted to confirm…

I’m probably going to move money in a savings account from my main credit union to an existing high yield online account (different bank). It’s a decent amount of five figures. I know this obviously isn’t a taxable event but is it something that will be tracked or will I get questioned on later?
No, as there will be a 'paper trail' for it even if done electronically. If you took out cash and deposited cash then you need to file a CTR (cash transaction report) which some people freak out about but is really nothing if everything is legit and is simply creating a papertrail where there isn't any because it is cash.
I had never heard of this and googled. This is done by the bank and they don't tell you unless you ask.
A CTR is not secret but not advertised either. The teller or banker will not say "Ok, I need to file a CTR..." they will just filing it and filling it out with asking questions and as you said, if asked they will let you know they are filing a report that is required by Federal law. Again, a CTR is not anything to worry about if all is legit though people freak out about it.... especially people who normally do not deposit or withdraw those amounts of cash regularly.

The thing you DO NOT want to be filed and that you would never know it has been filed is a SAR (Suspicious Activity Report). A SAR can be filed for various reasons such you go to deposit or withdraw over $10K, find out about the CTR and then change the deposit or withdraw to be under the $10K, if it looks like you are structuring (depositing/withdrawing multiple transactions to get under the $10K limit but you are actually over it) or pretty much for any reason that the transaction is suspicious. These are filed after you leave and the employees are required to not talk about it or mention it to you in any way, shape or form. You will never know about it.
Right, if you're doing nothing illegal you don't have anything to worry about. Your initial post made it seem like this was something the customer needed to file, I was just clarifying that this is all happening on the back end.
:lmao: I reread what I wrote and see what you mean. I guess after all those years working for banks my head is still in the "you" as the banker.
And as you mentioned the CTR relates to cash transactions so an electronic transfer shouldn't matter.
 
Dumb question/situation but I wanted to confirm…

I’m probably going to move money in a savings account from my main credit union to an existing high yield online account (different bank). It’s a decent amount of five figures. I know this obviously isn’t a taxable event but is it something that will be tracked or will I get questioned on later?
No, as there will be a 'paper trail' for it even if done electronically. If you took out cash and deposited cash then you need to file a CTR (cash transaction report) which some people freak out about but is really nothing if everything is legit and is simply creating a papertrail where there isn't any because it is cash.
I had never heard of this and googled. This is done by the bank and they don't tell you unless you ask.
A CTR is not secret but not advertised either. The teller or banker will not say "Ok, I need to file a CTR..." they will just filing it and filling it out with asking questions and as you said, if asked they will let you know they are filing a report that is required by Federal law. Again, a CTR is not anything to worry about if all is legit though people freak out about it.... especially people who normally do not deposit or withdraw those amounts of cash regularly.

The thing you DO NOT want to be filed and that you would never know it has been filed is a SAR (Suspicious Activity Report). A SAR can be filed for various reasons such you go to deposit or withdraw over $10K, find out about the CTR and then change the deposit or withdraw to be under the $10K, if it looks like you are structuring (depositing/withdrawing multiple transactions to get under the $10K limit but you are actually over it) or pretty much for any reason that the transaction is suspicious. These are filed after you leave and the employees are required to not talk about it or mention it to you in any way, shape or form. You will never know about it.
Right, if you're doing nothing illegal you don't have anything to worry about. Your initial post made it seem like this was something the customer needed to file, I was just clarifying that this is all happening on the back end.
:lmao: I reread what I wrote and see what you mean. I guess after all those years working for banks my head is still in the "you" as the banker.
And as you mentioned the CTR relates to cash transactions so an electronic transfer shouldn't matter.
Correct, CTR's are strictly only for cash transactions over $10K.
 
I bond. I buy before months end and I get 9.62% for the first 6 months, then the rate drops to 6.48% for the next 6 months? Then whatever it is thereafter, and I can redeem after a year with the penalty being last 3 months of interest? Sounds like a heck of a deal.
It’s the best deal there is. Guaranteed 9.6% is wild. 6.48 still amazing for bonds in general.

Liquidity is the issue. But don’t put in more than you can do without for the next year.

A friend made the argument, the market is so down, he wants to put all of his coin into discounted stocks. Which is also smart.

But I’ll take 20K (wife and I) at 9.6% any time it’s offered.
While I understand why people try to get the best gains, it’s better to just use the right tool for the job. We’re remodeling the bathroom next year and sending kid #2 to college (Probably auburn). I bonds are perfect for that (we bought before April and last year). I bonds can be a decent emergency fund after the first year. All our retirement funds are in equities which has hurt this year but we’re at least a decade away from using these funds.
 
There might be a fixed component for iBonds bought after November 1 too. I assume many of us will buy in January.
Not sure it is enough of a spread over the 1 year to make it worth it anymore.
Yes but the fixed component lasts for 30 years. Who knows what the future holds. We may see near zero rates again.
Won't the fixed component still be zero?
Possibly not for new bonds purchased after November 1. But we don’t know yet.

Here’s an article: https://seekingalpha.com/article/4546408-i-bonds-what-next
Depending on the fixed rate and the purpose, it almost seems selling current bonds and buying new makes sense (up to the max) unless you were going to buy anyway.
 
I bond. I buy before months end and I get 9.62% for the first 6 months, then the rate drops to 6.48% for the next 6 months? Then whatever it is thereafter, and I can redeem after a year with the penalty being last 3 months of interest? Sounds like a heck of a deal.
It’s the best deal there is. Guaranteed 9.6% is wild. 6.48 still amazing for bonds in general.

Liquidity is the issue. But don’t put in more than you can do without for the next year.

A friend made the argument, the market is so down, he wants to put all of his coin into discounted stocks. Which is also smart.

But I’ll take 20K (wife and I) at 9.6% any time it’s offered.
While I understand why people try to get the best gains, it’s better to just use the right tool for the job. We’re remodeling the bathroom next year and sending kid #2 to college (Probably auburn). I bonds are perfect for that (we bought before April and last year). I bonds can be a decent emergency fund after the first year. All our retirement funds are in equities which has hurt this year but we’re at least a decade away from using these funds.
They've turned out to be perfect for the last few years before college where you want a less riskier asset. If the 529 bounces back in a couple of years, I'll use that 1st. Otherwise, I have a few years of ibonds to fall back on.
 

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