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Home-owners...What are your current projects?


wilked

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Posted (edited)

I have a chandelier that takes 42 bulbs. The summer that I am using is rated for 700 watts. The bulbs I will be using are rated 15w. 
 

42 bulbs x 15w = 630 total watts or roughly 90% of what the dimmer is rated for. Am I cool? Not sure how close you should be getting to the limit before things start melting. 
 

TIA

Edited by Senor Schmutzig
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32 minutes ago, Senor Schmutzig said:

I have a chandelier that takes 42 bulbs. The summer that I am using is rated for 700 watts. The bulbs I will be using are rated 15w. 
 

42 bulbs x 15w = 630 total watts or roughly 90% of what the dimmer is rated for. Am I cool? Not sure how close you should be getting to the limit before things start melting. 
 

TIA

You'll be fine.  But why not go LED and cut that wattage waaaay down? They make some very nice looking candelabra base LED's now that would save a ton of energy and reduce changing.

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1 minute ago, Ron Swanson said:

You'll be fine.  But why not go LED and cut that wattage waaaay down? They make some very nice looking candelabra base LED's now that would save a ton of energy and reduce changing.

Well.....the hunt for the right LED was the 2nd attempt. The first attempt was the electrician coming today to install the chandelier only to tell us that the 42 x 25W incandescent bulbs we had were no bueno (42 bulbs x 25W = 1050W) due to the ~700W limitation of the dimmer. 

So....we went looking for LED's. First we went to Home Depot but didn't like what they had because the metallic stem(?) on the Sylvania LED's they had stuck up out of the fixture too much and my wife didn't like how it looked. We went online and couldn't find any LED bulbs that A) didn't have the high metallic stem or B) didn't have a logo or some sort of writing on the base of the bulb. Since the bulbs are both pointing up and pointing down (think something like this,) we just want a frosted bulb without a logo or writing. After several hours searching the internets, we were back to an incandescent bulb at a lower wattage that seems to give us the look we need. 

The struggle is real my friends...

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8 hours ago, Senor Schmutzig said:

Well.....the hunt for the right LED was the 2nd attempt. The first attempt was the electrician coming today to install the chandelier only to tell us that the 42 x 25W incandescent bulbs we had were no bueno (42 bulbs x 25W = 1050W) due to the ~700W limitation of the dimmer. 

So....we went looking for LED's. First we went to Home Depot but didn't like what they had because the metallic stem(?) on the Sylvania LED's they had stuck up out of the fixture too much and my wife didn't like how it looked. We went online and couldn't find any LED bulbs that A) didn't have the high metallic stem or B) didn't have a logo or some sort of writing on the base of the bulb. Since the bulbs are both pointing up and pointing down (think something like this,) we just want a frosted bulb without a logo or writing. After several hours searching the internets, we were back to an incandescent bulb at a lower wattage that seems to give us the look we need. 

The struggle is real my friends...

Ooof.  

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8 hours ago, FBG26 said:

What type of bulb base does the chandelier require? Super bright LED has tons of options. Big fan of this website, pretty much always has whatever you're of bulb I need. 

Nope. Need a G-16.5 Frosted Globe light. They only have two options and neither of them are frosted. 

https://www.superbrightleds.com/search/globe-bulbs/g+16.5/filter/Bulb_Type,G16.5,30,7746:

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  • 2 weeks later...

TLDR: I built something.                               

Living in NC the mosquitoes make hanging outside in the evening miserable  which sucks as I love being outside. 
I wanted to build a screened in porch but wood prices ruined that.  I settled on a 12x16 screened in Gazebo

Seems simple enough, paver patio, build  gazebo, enjoy.  The reality...

hand excavate a 13x17 space 4 inches deep of Carolina clay

3 yards of abc aggregate and rent compactor to tamp it flat 

1 1/2 yards of screenings leveled and smoothed for the pavers

couple trips to Home Depot to load/unload 140 16x16 pavers at 40 pounds each and then spend a day on my hands and knees laying them

Dig 16 inch footers and pour concrete to secure the structure

Assemble gazebo and it’s gazillion pieces and crappy direction

Hammer drill and tap-cons so it doesn’t blow away

assemble 7 piece furniture set

run new circuit to gazebo for outlets and hang a ceiling fan

started in early April and lost 2 weekends when my Dad fell and I had to head to Florida to help out 

I wouldn’t trade that time busting ### with my sons for anything and I’m currently listening to the frogs and sipping on bourbon.  Life is good 👍

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Posted (edited)
4 hours ago, berndog said:

TLDR: I built something.                               

Living in NC the mosquitoes make hanging outside in the evening miserable  which sucks as I love being outside. 
I wanted to build a screened in porch but wood prices ruined that.  I settled on a 12x16 screened in Gazebo

Seems simple enough, paver patio, build  gazebo, enjoy.  The reality...

hand excavate a 13x17 space 4 inches deep of Carolina clay

3 yards of abc aggregate and rent compactor to tamp it flat 

1 1/2 yards of screenings leveled and smoothed for the pavers

couple trips to Home Depot to load/unload 140 16x16 pavers at 40 pounds each and then spend a day on my hands and knees laying them

Dig 16 inch footers and pour concrete to secure the structure

Assemble gazebo and it’s gazillion pieces and crappy direction

Hammer drill and tap-cons so it doesn’t blow away

assemble 7 piece furniture set

run new circuit to gazebo for outlets and hang a ceiling fan

started in early April and lost 2 weekends when my Dad fell and I had to head to Florida to help out 

I wouldn’t trade that time busting ### with my sons for anything and I’m currently listening to the frogs and sipping on bourbon.  Life is good 👍

How much was the gazebo? 

Edited by rascal
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9 hours ago, berndog said:

TLDR: I built something.                               

Living in NC the mosquitoes make hanging outside in the evening miserable  which sucks as I love being outside. 
I wanted to build a screened in porch but wood prices ruined that.  I settled on a 12x16 screened in Gazebo

Seems simple enough, paver patio, build  gazebo, enjoy.  The reality...

hand excavate a 13x17 space 4 inches deep of Carolina clay

3 yards of abc aggregate and rent compactor to tamp it flat 

1 1/2 yards of screenings leveled and smoothed for the pavers

couple trips to Home Depot to load/unload 140 16x16 pavers at 40 pounds each and then spend a day on my hands and knees laying them

Dig 16 inch footers and pour concrete to secure the structure

Assemble gazebo and it’s gazillion pieces and crappy direction

Hammer drill and tap-cons so it doesn’t blow away

assemble 7 piece furniture set

run new circuit to gazebo for outlets and hang a ceiling fan

started in early April and lost 2 weekends when my Dad fell and I had to head to Florida to help out 

I wouldn’t trade that time busting ### with my sons for anything and I’m currently listening to the frogs and sipping on bourbon.  Life is good 👍

Pics?

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8 hours ago, rascal said:

How much was the gazebo? 

I ordered from Costco and it was $1800

4 hours ago, AAABatteries said:

Pics?

Lots of pics on my phone but I need to get a photo sharing app

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OK - not totally a project, but more of a question - My parents bought a house on the Chesapeake a few months back.  There is a massive outbuilding on the property.  I'm estimating 40' x 60' - concrete pad, wood framed structure with corrugated metal sides and normal low-pitch roof - MASSIVE garage door (12' high, 15' wide) - The previous owner used to store a really big boat in there.  

Here's the odd part - The sides are open - meaning you can see the support structure and the corrugated metal.  The ceiling, however, is drywalled.  There is drywall that has been fastened to the underside of the roof joists.  It was never mudded/taped, just drywalled.  Then, in the back 1/3 of the building, instead of drywalling the underside of the roof joists and maintaining the angle of the roof, the ceiling is actually leveled off at the top of the walls so the ceiling is horizontal.  The space with the horizontal ceiling has a void above the ceiling and up to the pitch of the roof in that part - but I have no clue why anyone would do that.  There's no access to that space.  It's only in the back 1/3.  

Next time I'm out there I'm going to bring a hole saw and a flashlight and cut into it and see what's there - but I have no clue why you'd first even bother drywalling the ceiling but not the sides, and second why you'd intentionally build out a ceiling with no access above and only do it to 1/3 of a massive outbuilding.  I'm afraid I'm going to find a body up there or something.  It's just odd.  Any theories?

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19 minutes ago, Fat Nick said:

OK - not totally a project, but more of a question - My parents bought a house on the Chesapeake a few months back.  There is a massive outbuilding on the property.  I'm estimating 40' x 60' - concrete pad, wood framed structure with corrugated metal sides and normal low-pitch roof - MASSIVE garage door (12' high, 15' wide) - The previous owner used to store a really big boat in there.  

Here's the odd part - The sides are open - meaning you can see the support structure and the corrugated metal.  The ceiling, however, is drywalled.  There is drywall that has been fastened to the underside of the roof joists.  It was never mudded/taped, just drywalled.  Then, in the back 1/3 of the building, instead of drywalling the underside of the roof joists and maintaining the angle of the roof, the ceiling is actually leveled off at the top of the walls so the ceiling is horizontal.  The space with the horizontal ceiling has a void above the ceiling and up to the pitch of the roof in that part - but I have no clue why anyone would do that.  There's no access to that space.  It's only in the back 1/3.  

Next time I'm out there I'm going to bring a hole saw and a flashlight and cut into it and see what's there - but I have no clue why you'd first even bother drywalling the ceiling but not the sides, and second why you'd intentionally build out a ceiling with no access above and only do it to 1/3 of a massive outbuilding.  I'm afraid I'm going to find a body up there or something.  It's just odd.  Any theories?

Hard to say.

Maybe they were going to put a bath/living space back there and ran out of money or desire. 

I know I'd tear all of that sheetrock out of there, though. That #### is a mold-magnet and they had nothing sealed.

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44 minutes ago, Fat Nick said:

OK - not totally a project, but more of a question - My parents bought a house on the Chesapeake a few months back.  There is a massive outbuilding on the property.  I'm estimating 40' x 60' - concrete pad, wood framed structure with corrugated metal sides and normal low-pitch roof - MASSIVE garage door (12' high, 15' wide) - The previous owner used to store a really big boat in there.  

Here's the odd part - The sides are open - meaning you can see the support structure and the corrugated metal.  The ceiling, however, is drywalled.  There is drywall that has been fastened to the underside of the roof joists.  It was never mudded/taped, just drywalled.  Then, in the back 1/3 of the building, instead of drywalling the underside of the roof joists and maintaining the angle of the roof, the ceiling is actually leveled off at the top of the walls so the ceiling is horizontal.  The space with the horizontal ceiling has a void above the ceiling and up to the pitch of the roof in that part - but I have no clue why anyone would do that.  There's no access to that space.  It's only in the back 1/3.  

Next time I'm out there I'm going to bring a hole saw and a flashlight and cut into it and see what's there - but I have no clue why you'd first even bother drywalling the ceiling but not the sides, and second why you'd intentionally build out a ceiling with no access above and only do it to 1/3 of a massive outbuilding.  I'm afraid I'm going to find a body up there or something.  It's just odd.  Any theories?

Maybe a firewall/barrier to meet some kind of code?

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I would agree that the back 1/3 was originally planned to be some sort of living/occupied space so they made the ceiling flat.  Maybe all the walls were drywalled at some point and it was removed for some reason and never put back (leaks, mold, damaged..).   I know my basement was "finished" when I moved in, within the first couple years we had a few leaks through cracks in the wall, and a window well and now I have removed all the drywall and studs.

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Posted (edited)

One day Ill post pics....

Just planted 140 (6") Nellie Stevens Holly seedlings for a hedge around the entire property. Its going to take a couple years to grow enough to offer any privacy but they only cost me $2.71 each as apposed to the $19 and up for larger plants. 

Planted 10 (3') Nellie Stevens to hide the neighbors house and shed a little faster. 

Built the wife a second raised bed, this time using only 4x4 posts (16'X4')

Finished installing a 8' deer fence.

Master bdrm - replaced the old metal 4" toilet flange with pvc. Fixed an area on the shower glass that was leaking below into the kitchen. 

Next up= replace the kitchen ceiling drywall, paint.

Side project - finish the go-kart rebuild. 

Edited by STEADYMOBBIN 22
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On 5/17/2021 at 9:39 AM, berndog said:

I ordered from Costco and it was $1800

Lots of pics on my phone but I need to get a photo sharing app

I'm curious how it would look next to a house instead of a pergola.

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Posted (edited)

@rascal and @AAAABatteries

Here are pics of the screened in gazebo

Hung the TV and sound bar last night and thankfully running out of things I want to do 

https://imgur.com/gallery/Fq0Av3U

https://i.imgur.com/zNz3Sjk.jpg

https://imgur.com/gallery/2ofZn3h

https://imgur.com/gallery/AW2WNzw

 

Edited by berndog
Imgr idiot (times 2)
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I got a $2500 quote on some electrical improvements for a rustic log cabin. Main cost was challenges getting wire where I needed it with minimal crawl space below floor. Really did not want to run more wire around exposed logs so I spent 6 hours today in 6”-1’ height digging a 2’ rut. Not fun work with minimal height to move dirt, but should be a $400 job at most now that I have wire run where I need it. 

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So much to get done.  

 

We've got a landscaper coming hopefully in the next few weeks.  Between covid and the never ending rains in Kentucky, they've been backed up.  We're getting all the box woods yanked from the flower bed and new flowers planed.  

There's a ditch that is basically a creek when it rains that drains down to the drainage pipe.  It overfills with weeds like no tomorrow and is a gigantic pain.  So they're going to spray it and fill it with rip rap.  

We've got 2 dead trees we're going to have to get removed.  Once they're gone we're going to get a small storage building for the mowers and such.  There's just no room in the garage right now.  

We're getting the basement flooring redone.  We bought the house in February of last year, and the carpet was a disaster then.  Wife wants Vinyl, so we're waiting on an estimate for that now.  

I'd evenetually like to take out the cabinents in the basement and get a bar done.

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Question...

putting in a new bathroom now. I need to run the 3” drain underneath the floor (so top of ceiling in the level below) to get it to a closet, then down to the basement. This will be against an exterior wall. See photo below. 
 

https://i.imgur.com/t7H9UAX.jpg
 

I need to stay above the window and blend it into the arch by the stairs. Bottom line is the final product needs to be no more than 6x6”. Since the 3” pipe will need 3.5-4” that leaves me 2ish inches. 1/2” will be drywall. And that is if the plumber hits it perfectly. 
 

so here’s my question. Everything I read on soffits are they get built with 2x4 stock, sometimes 2x2. I won’t have that. Wondering if I can build a corner box (“L”) out of 3/4” plywood? I could use pocket screws or something to secure it to the studs on each side every 16”. I would think that it would be pretty strong then. It just needs to support itself and the drywall, pipe will be self supported. The whole span is like 4-5 feet. 

finished product would be this, 4.5 feet long, and 6” each way.
https://www.woodtalkonline.com/uploads/monthly_11_2011/post-2037-0-26250700-1320493871_thumb.jpg

Secure to studs on both wall and ceiling every 16”. Then I would drywall over it  

what do you think? 

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2 hours ago, wilked said:

Ok, measuring I think I could do 7x7”. 
 

might work w 2x2 ladder framing. Would leave  4.5-5” for the plumber to work with, which should be plenty 

I'm sure he'll appreciate all that space...

Could you frame it out, then remove the framing so the guy can actually do the work?

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5 hours ago, wilked said:

Ha! I won’t put the soffit up til he is done

 

in the end I think a 2x2 ladder will work  full ladder in the front, and just a 2x2 nailed to the wall in the back to give a backing for the drywall. It will only span 6” or so  

basiclaly this

https://i.stack.imgur.com/dKRfq.jpg

Gotcha.  I'd mark the lines for his work, then set up a laser to ensure that the pipes don't protrude.

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I am "challenged" when it comes to DIY home repair. I know this. I have good intentions and plan the project out. I may go as far to buy the required tools and materials, but then reality hits me and I know I better just pay someone to complete this. 

That being said, we had a pretty good windstorm here this last weekend and the front section of my fence, including the gate, was destroyed. The posts appear to be still in good shape, so that would have been the more challenging part, This looks like an easy project because it is just affixing 3 1/2 inch boards and won't involve using 6 foot pre-made panels. The only thing I am watching You Tube videos on is how to build the gate because I always hated the one that was on there as it never closed right and weighed a ton. 

I actually have a circular saw that I bought for an early project--that is still in the unopened box :bag:

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Posted (edited)

Finished installing 12'x8' of a nice modern looking privacy wall on out patio that is sanded and clear coated. Took about 60 boards in total.

Also, finished taking down all blinds and installing new cellular cordless ones, including blackout in the bedrooms. When we moved in every single one was broken.

Sod installed (15'x28') and the initial sprinkler system is done, but digging an additional couple hundred feet of trench to bring the multi valve system to the entire property is ####ty.

Edited by madshot31
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On 11/19/2020 at 2:00 PM, greedygoat said:

Starting to gather some bids from GC's on a major kitchen remodel.  Project includes new cabinets and countertops, removing walls, relocating electric panel, relocating washer and dryer, pitting in an island, moving kitchen sink, removing drop ceiling, scraping popcorn, new floors throughout, new lighting throughout and most importantly adding a wet bar because once this project is over I will definitely be needing a cocktail.

Anyone know of a good place to bury a GC?  Currently in week 24 of our "7 week project".

 

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2 hours ago, greedygoat said:

Anyone know of a good place to bury a GC?  Currently in week 24 of our "7 week project".

 

LOL we did all that in Oct/Nov 2020. Whole project took 5 weeks. But the ####ers brought bed bugs into my house.

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3 hours ago, Senor Schmutzig said:

Holy #### curtains are expensive. And no, not the Ikea ones. Custom ordered curtains. And yes, I understand that whenever you have to "custom" anything, it gets expensive, but damn...

Beef are a good option

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The wife and I just bought a beach house.  Doing some major renovations ahead of the season.  It’s a weird layout-no dining room and there’s a lower area with a kitchenette, full bath and a bedroom (I think it was intended as an in law suite).  Anyways, you have to walk through a bedroom to access this portion of the house, which is a negative and the bedroom in question just happens to be adjacent to the current living room (which is attached to the small galley kitchen).  I’m in the process of blowing out the walls/closets between the current living room and walk-thru bedroom to convert the bedroom to a living room and make the current living room a legit dining room.  These will be separated by a 36” high kneewall with bar top and I’m blowing out the wall between the kitchen and new dining room.  This will provide a +/- 7’-0” bar between the kitchen and dining room.  That’s a load bearing wall (ceiling joists) so I have to cut in a new beam.  
 

Attached to the bedroom/new living room is a ridiculous walk in closet that is about 10x9 with a huge picture window.  I’m converting that to the kids room-calling it the hobbit hole since it’s so small.  There’s a niche that I’ve Demi’s out that will be perfect for built in bunk beds.  
 

Removing the kitchenette at the lower level and using the existing infrastructure to do a legit laundry space (the current laundry is located in another bedroom and totally ####s up the furnish-ability).  Removing this closet will make it a legitimate bedroom.  All told I’m going from a 4/2 with out a dining room to a 4/2 with a big dining room and a huge open concept.  
 

im doing all the work myself and I have approximately a month.  I started 3 days ago and have been cranking on the demo.  
 

more to come...

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3 hours ago, unckeyherb said:

The wife and I just bought a beach house.  Doing some major renovations ahead of the season.  It’s a weird layout-no dining room and there’s a lower area with a kitchenette, full bath and a bedroom (I think it was intended as an in law suite).  Anyways, you have to walk through a bedroom to access this portion of the house, which is a negative and the bedroom in question just happens to be adjacent to the current living room (which is attached to the small galley kitchen).  I’m in the process of blowing out the walls/closets between the current living room and walk-thru bedroom to convert the bedroom to a living room and make the current living room a legit dining room.  These will be separated by a 36” high kneewall with bar top and I’m blowing out the wall between the kitchen and new dining room.  This will provide a +/- 7’-0” bar between the kitchen and dining room.  That’s a load bearing wall (ceiling joists) so I have to cut in a new beam.  
 

Attached to the bedroom/new living room is a ridiculous walk in closet that is about 10x9 with a huge picture window.  I’m converting that to the kids room-calling it the hobbit hole since it’s so small.  There’s a niche that I’ve Demi’s out that will be perfect for built in bunk beds.  
 

Removing the kitchenette at the lower level and using the existing infrastructure to do a legit laundry space (the current laundry is located in another bedroom and totally ####s up the furnish-ability).  Removing this closet will make it a legitimate bedroom.  All told I’m going from a 4/2 with out a dining room to a 4/2 with a big dining room and a huge open concept.  
 

im doing all the work myself and I have approximately a month.  I started 3 days ago and have been cranking on the demo.  
 

more to come...

How many hrs / week you on this? 

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10 hours ago, wilked said:

How many hrs / week you on this? 

Took this whole week off so Tuesday to Sunday full time.  6:30 am until about 7 pm.  Then a few hours of “not loud stuff” so I’m not being a sick neighbor right out of the gate.  After that, mostly it will be drive down Thursday and work on the house Friday - Sunday.  
 

I have all the demo between the bedroom/living room done and the ceiling reframed.  That was the most demo of this project.  Have the kitchen demo done with the exception of the studs.  Installed the new posts yesterday and am framing up temp walls this morning to cut out the studs and install the new beam.  Theres obviously electrical scope associated with that as well, so that is what I’m actually doing at the moment-pulling a rerouting the wire from the wall that I’m removing.

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23 hours ago, greedygoat said:

Anyone know of a good place to bury a GC?  Currently in week 24 of our "7 week project".

 

 

1 hour ago, SWC said:

this thread is a lot better with pictures herb that is all i am sayin take that to the bank brohan 

Kitchen before and much after…

https://imgur.com/a/QGitCFV
 

If my guy works a full day tomorrow he should be able to bang out the rest of the punch list and order final inspections. 

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On 6/4/2021 at 12:24 PM, SWC said:

this thread is a lot better with pictures herb that is all i am sayin take that to the bank brohan 

 

Sure thing.  Freaking exhausted but got a lot done this week.  Main demo of kitchen wall to create an island went well, just back breaking.  Had to install temp bracing as this is a load bearing wall (ceiling joists only).  Double 2x10 installed to carry these joists moving forward.  Install by myself was....challenging.

Pre-Demo Kitchen  Another view

Start of demo

Kitchen wall being demo'd with temp load bracingFrom the Living Room

Demo and beam install done  From the living room

 

Entry closet/bedroom closet wall demo was more extensive but no load bearing so in some ways easier.  

Bedroom-soon-to-be-living room pre demo  another view-planning a side project in that closet to build a wet bar in the recess.

Living Room-soon-to-be-dining room pre demo.

Demo Starting  Starting

Demo done and infill framing done

Soffit and recessed lighting installed  Another view  From the new Kitchen Island  From new Dining Room

 

Kids room was pretty straight forward, just removing a bunch of shelving and a couple of walls.

Pre demo

Post demo  This is the alcove that I will be building in the bunk beds

Also completed was the demo of the laundry closet but no photos of that.  Hit a bit of a snag in that the main sanitary stack is in the wall, but its close enough to the existing remaining wall that I'll just frame it in and leave it.  Not ####### around with that thing.  Adaptive design right there. 

Also installed a Wifi deadbolt on the front door so I can lock/unlock remotely and change the code from my phone.  We plan on renting this out for parts of the summer so this was a must.  

More to follow next week.  Having the floors refinished this week-while I can technically do this, its one of the few things I am willing to pay someone else to do.  

 

Six weeks left.....

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looks great herb that is a hell of a lot of work and keep on getting er dun and posting pictures take that to the bank bromigo

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