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Home-owners...What are your current projects? (3 Viewers)

This is pretty standard for new subdivisions, they don't want some trash bag to come in and erect a moose statue out front or paint the house pink and decrease the value of surrounding homes.    In regards to exterior paint colors they usually have a a pallet of 4-5 color choices/combinations that are acceptable.
Agreed, however I just want to repaint the shutters the same color that has already been approved.  Instead of running to the HD tomorrow to get paint I have to file a form and wait up to 30 days.

 
New hot tub being delivered Monday. Spent all day running 240 through the crawlspace to the patio. PITA, should have hired an electrician.  

 
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The post is leaning because its rotten, broken or wasn't buried deep enough the first time. Since it's a fence post and not being used to support a structure or a gate, if I were you, I would absolutely not use concrete. If you use concrete and the post breaks again you will have to dig out the concrete the next time. Given that its adjacent to your driveway its always in danger of being damaged, even if its not you. As long as your hole is deep enough it's not going anywhere unless you back a vehicle into it and all the concrete in the world isn't going to prevent that. 

Rather than concrete you can put a key at the post like this guy did.

Also, make sure you buy pressure treated wood. Good luck. 
Make sure the key is perpendicular to the gate.

 
Got a dirty question for you guys.

I had a patio in my backyard that was about 150 square feet.  It was all bricks.  I dug them up and want to just plant grass.  It is going to be about 5-6 inches deep of dirt that will be needed because the patio was originally set below the ground around it. 

Do I just want to use topsoil???  Or should I use several inches of something else, and if so, what?  I have a few places around here that do dirt/mulch......so shouldnt be hard to get whatever I need, just wondering what I should use.  

 
Update on my backyard that I'm sure everyone is on pins and needles waiting for; pool was completely removed and filled in a few weeks ago.  It took me a week or so to get dirt delivered (30 yards).  I worked one weekend on it. As I was spreading the dirt, I was thinking I wouldn't have enough to go as deep as I wanted (ordered for 3 inch coverage over the sandy clay the pool was filled in with).  A couple days off, then I had time to do some more, and realized I was going to have plenty.  Started at the other end of the area, and started spreading thickly, whatever I have left when I get to the portion I started will go on as material permits.  I've spent four or five evenings out there after work until it gets dark.

The kicker is that it rains every other day or three here lately.  On a nice day I can go out, shovel the top layer off the piles, then I get to the soaked super heavy dirt underneath that weighs a ton.  The ground around the pile is soaked, so I sink in and have to pull my boots out of the muck to move the wheelbarrow to dump the dirt.  It's a slog of a job.  At this point, it is clear I should have rented some equipment to spread it, but I've told myself I'm done spending money on this job so I am stubbornly going to do it all by hand.  I have at least half the 30 yards left, if not more.  I just hope I can get it spread and some seed down before it snows.  Parts of North Dakota is getting three feet of snow this weekend, so my window is closing.
Still have at least half of my black dirt waiting to be spread.  I had big plans for this weekend as it has been dry for a couple of days, but now I see the forecast calls for showers Saturday morning, which of course means the whole weekend is lost.  I have a feeling this won't get spread until its cold enough to snow and stop raining.

 
Update on my backyard that I'm sure everyone is on pins and needles waiting for; pool was completely removed and filled in a few weeks ago.  It took me a week or so to get dirt delivered (30 yards).  I worked one weekend on it. As I was spreading the dirt, I was thinking I wouldn't have enough to go as deep as I wanted (ordered for 3 inch coverage over the sandy clay the pool was filled in with).  A couple days off, then I had time to do some more, and realized I was going to have plenty.  Started at the other end of the area, and started spreading thickly, whatever I have left when I get to the portion I started will go on as material permits.  I've spent four or five evenings out there after work until it gets dark.

The kicker is that it rains every other day or three here lately.  On a nice day I can go out, shovel the top layer off the piles, then I get to the soaked super heavy dirt underneath that weighs a ton.  The ground around the pile is soaked, so I sink in and have to pull my boots out of the muck to move the wheelbarrow to dump the dirt.  It's a slog of a job.  At this point, it is clear I should have rented some equipment to spread it, but I've told myself I'm done spending money on this job so I am stubbornly going to do it all by hand.  I have at least half the 30 yards left, if not more.  I just hope I can get it spread and some seed down before it snows.  Parts of North Dakota is getting three feet of snow this weekend, so my window is closing.
Still have at least half of my black dirt waiting to be spread.  I had big plans for this weekend as it has been dry for a couple of days, but now I see the forecast calls for showers Saturday morning, which of course means the whole weekend is lost.  I have a feeling this won't get spread until its cold enough to snow and stop raining.
Is there a reason you didn't rent a skid steer for this?  Could've knocked it out in half a day.  Would've eliminated any rain complications.

ETA: Nevermind.  Just read that you realized your mistake.

ETA2: Bonus points though for you thinking you are an actual Bull Dozier and trying to spread 30 yards of dirt all by yourself.

 
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Got a dirty question for you guys.

I had a patio in my backyard that was about 150 square feet.  It was all bricks.  I dug them up and want to just plant grass.  It is going to be about 5-6 inches deep of dirt that will be needed because the patio was originally set below the ground around it. 

Do I just want to use topsoil???  Or should I use several inches of something else, and if so, what?  I have a few places around here that do dirt/mulch......so shouldnt be hard to get whatever I need, just wondering what I should use.  
What's the exposed soil like? Clay?

 
Our latest project is a 12x24 garage because our attached garage has become a brewery.  My wife wanted the brewery to be in the outside building but I would have had to run electric, gas, water and sewage out to it.  SO brewery stays in the house garage and her Miata and yard tools goes to the external.

 
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Got our kitchen cabinets refaced.  So they look like brand new cabinets, highly recommended.  But now of course the wife wants new back splash, and counter.  I told her she should have said something before the cabinets were done, it would have been a lot easier.  So now I have to take down old back splash without damaging new cabinets. It's a big kitchen, with two whole walls of cabinets/counters. Got part of it done and was able to pull that off, but is very long and tedious work, trying not to damage anything. New counters come in next week, will put those in before new back splash obviously.  I'm concerned about taking the old counter tops off where the sink and dishwasher are.  One, because I've never installed counter tops myself, and two, because I have to dismantle the plumbing and take the sink out, and most likely the dishwasher to take out old/install new.  Never had to take a dishwasher out, never had to take a sink out of old counter in order to install into new counter. Ugh.

 
Spreading Topsoil

Before adding topsoil, grading the lawn ensures water will flow away from buildings. A slope of 1 to 4 percent is ideal. Large grading changes require the use of a tractor or bulldozer, but small changes such as filling in a few low spots can be done using a shovel, wheelbarrow and rake. After grading, spread a 4- to 6-inch-thick layer of good-quality topsoil over the entire lawn surface. That measurement refers to the depth of topsoil after it has been firmed and settled.

https://www.hunker.com/13405535/how-much-topsoil-is-needed-to-grow-good-grass

Theres no too much... u

 
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The good: I added some more 12v landscape lighting this weekend.  2 new pathway lights, and a new up-light onto my crab-apple tree, as well as 3 recessed puck lights over the garage doors.  The door lights look freakin' awesome and it was surprisingly easy to do.

The bad: I was walking the property with the little guy and we (he) discovered three trees infested with Spotted Lantern Flys.  It sees they've officially taken over my county now after spreading from PA.  They seem to like my Sugar Maples, and my willow...not interested in anything else.  I read that Talstar-P is the chosen insecticide (same stuff they recommended for the Stink Bugs).  I happened to have  half-used bottle of concentrate in the shed, but it was about 2 years expired.  I mixed it up and sprayed, and it seemed to still do the trick.  Came back a day later and there were hundreds of casualties all over the ground.  I'm really getting sick of these non-endemic bugs that come in and wipe out trees.   

 
Could anyone give me the best products/methods to throughly clean my shower?

Half the shower is fiberglass and the other half glass. The fiberglass has some mold growth and the glass is covered in soap scum.

Two different products for this job?

 
Got our kitchen cabinets refaced.  So they look like brand new cabinets, highly recommended.  But now of course the wife wants new back splash, and counter.  I told her she should have said something before the cabinets were done, it would have been a lot easier.  So now I have to take down old back splash without damaging new cabinets. It's a big kitchen, with two whole walls of cabinets/counters. Got part of it done and was able to pull that off, but is very long and tedious work, trying not to damage anything. New counters come in next week, will put those in before new back splash obviously.  I'm concerned about taking the old counter tops off where the sink and dishwasher are.  One, because I've never installed counter tops myself, and two, because I have to dismantle the plumbing and take the sink out, and most likely the dishwasher to take out old/install new.  Never had to take a dishwasher out, never had to take a sink out of old counter in order to install into new counter. Ugh.
Dishwasher is really easy. Sink plumbing depends, but usually not bad. 
 

the whole project though sounds messy.... good luck 

 
Re-doing the main bathroom. Took everything down to the studs and replaced the subfloor. Took 4 weeks to get the tub back in and now I can start getting the drywall/concrete board up to get ready to tile. Man, this takes forever when you've got kids. I'm lucky to get a couple hours at one time to work, especially when I have to work around naps/bedtime for fear of making too much noise. 

 
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Re-doing the main bathroom. Took everything down to the studs and replaced the subfloor. Took 4 weeks to get the tub back in and now I can start getting the drywall/concrete board up to get ready to tile. Man, this takes forever when you've got kids. I'm lucky to get a couple hours at one time to work, especially when I have to work around naps/bedtime for fear of making too much noise. 
Make sure you use a waterproof barrier like Kerdi or Redgard. Common miss on bathrooms I think 

 
Got our kitchen cabinets refaced.  So they look like brand new cabinets, highly recommended.  But now of course the wife wants new back splash, and counter.  I told her she should have said something before the cabinets were done, it would have been a lot easier.  So now I have to take down old back splash without damaging new cabinets. It's a big kitchen, with two whole walls of cabinets/counters. Got part of it done and was able to pull that off, but is very long and tedious work, trying not to damage anything. New counters come in next week, will put those in before new back splash obviously.  I'm concerned about taking the old counter tops off where the sink and dishwasher are.  One, because I've never installed counter tops myself, and two, because I have to dismantle the plumbing and take the sink out, and most likely the dishwasher to take out old/install new.  Never had to take a dishwasher out, never had to take a sink out of old counter in order to install into new counter. Ugh.
YouTube is your friend.  It's pretty easy but time consuming.  Gl.

 
I've been doing some repair of the beams the stick out from the large dormer on the front/back of our house. I think they are 4x10" rough sawn cedar. They stick out about 6 inches. All four had some degree of rot/damage. I'm wondering if anyone else has had a problem with theirs? We resided the house and painted everything about 6-7 years ago. There was no damage at that time even though that paint was at least 15 years old. Not sure what happened recently that effected all of them in such a short period of time.

I cleaned out the damaged areas. One had a pretty good section in the center that was 3-4" deep. I filled that with expanding foam, then finished with a couple of top coats of Bondo for wood. For the last coat, I let the Bondo harden a little before applying. It gave it a rough texture that matched the rough sawn wood of the original. The are all capped with a coat of the Bondo as well. So, I don't think water can get inside. At least from the top. 

TL:DR Check your beams. 

 
I've been doing some repair of the beams the stick out from the large dormer on the front/back of our house. I think they are 4x10" rough sawn cedar. They stick out about 6 inches. All four had some degree of rot/damage. I'm wondering if anyone else has had a problem with theirs? We resided the house and painted everything about 6-7 years ago. There was no damage at that time even though that paint was at least 15 years old. Not sure what happened recently that effected all of them in such a short period of time.

I cleaned out the damaged areas. One had a pretty good section in the center that was 3-4" deep. I filled that with expanding foam, then finished with a couple of top coats of Bondo for wood. For the last coat, I let the Bondo harden a little before applying. It gave it a rough texture that matched the rough sawn wood of the original. The are all capped with a coat of the Bondo as well. So, I don't think water can get inside. At least from the top. 

TL:DR Check your beams. 
Are they really beams (carrying a load), or are they false (for show)? 

Also, cedar shouldn't rot like that.

 
Here's is one similar to ours. The back of the house only has the beam at the peak. The two lower ones in the front sit on top of the brick. 

The sections that stick out are what have the damage. 
I dunno, man. In the picture, it looks like the members are "wrapped" with 1x of (maybe) a different material. I've never seen cedar used for bearing horizontally.

In any case, that doesn't matter.

What does is stopping any water getting in. Looks like you jumped on the outside issue. Any way to tell if there's any damage inside the house where the beams come in?

 
I dunno, man. In the picture, it looks like the members are "wrapped" with 1x of (maybe) a different material. I've never seen cedar used for bearing horizontally.

In any case, that doesn't matter.

What does is stopping any water getting in. Looks like you jumped on the outside issue. Any way to tell if there's any damage inside the house where the beams come in?
The ones in the picture look like they've been beveled on all 4 sides of the ends. Ours aren't wrapped. I can confirm that much.  One of the lower fronts had enough of a chunk missing out of it that it would have revealed any 1x wrap. The front edge of the beam is rough (end grain). Could it be douglas fir or something similar? It's not a hardwood of any kind. 

I'm guessing the damage started from either water getting in on the top edge or the front (rough) edge. Since the top of the beam is flat, it would hold standing water. (no taper) With the front being rough, it doesn't hold paint very well. It only occurred on the sections that extend out past the roof line. (6-8 inches). The rest of the beam is protected by the soffit. I checked them by poking different areas with a screwdriver, but didn't find any damage. Compared to the end, where the screwdriver sunk in 3-4" in multiple areas.  :shrug:

I think it's water tight now. I'll keep an eye on things. Thanks for your input. 

 
Still have at least half of my black dirt waiting to be spread.  I had big plans for this weekend as it has been dry for a couple of days, but now I see the forecast calls for showers Saturday morning, which of course means the whole weekend is lost.  I have a feeling this won't get spread until its cold enough to snow and stop raining.
Finally "finished" my back yard for the year.  Got most of the dirt spread around the yard, and spread grass seed on Sunday.  I say most of the dirt, because the bottom of the pile had essentially turned into concrete, as it was packed so tight from all the weight sitting on it for weeks.  Did my best to move it around, but there will be a small hill there as compared to the rest of the yard.

We'll see how the grass comes up in the spring after the thaw.

We have decided on some plans to potentially move within a couple of years, so I have tempered my goals of turning this in to a backyard fire put oasis, and just want it to look as huge as possible for showings.

 
I have a fence question.  I replaced 3 rotted posts on my split rail fence and was wondering what is the reason for nailing the rails to the posts?   Does it provide structural integrity or prevent warping?

 I didn’t secure my rails and want to make sure I didn’t skip a critical step. 

 
I have a fence question.  I replaced 3 rotted posts on my split rail fence and was wondering what is the reason for nailing the rails to the posts?   Does it provide structural integrity or prevent warping?

 I didn’t secure my rails and want to make sure I didn’t skip a critical step. 
Never heard of nailing it...   I guess just for "safety" of it sliding out or "vandals"  :shrug:

 
I have a fence question.  I replaced 3 rotted posts on my split rail fence and was wondering what is the reason for nailing the rails to the posts?   Does it provide structural integrity or prevent warping?

 I didn’t secure my rails and want to make sure I didn’t skip a critical step. 
Never worked with a split rail fence, but don't see why you would use nails instead of screws.   More secure with screws I would think.

 
My housing area is weird due to something I saw this morning. I bought my house three years ago (February) for just under 150k. The next domino fell about a year ago and a house sold for 150k (~300 sq ft smaller, smaller garage). This past May, a house with the same blueprint as mine sold for 180k. A few differences, one being a smaller garage than mine. Danced in my head to get mine ready for sale if I could get 190k (pipe dream, imo, but you never know). This morning, next door neighbor has their house up for sale with a similar blueprint to the one that sold for 150k. This house has a bigger garage and nicer fixtures but still ~300 sq ft smaller than the 180k and mine. They put it up for 199k. Granted its just listed but I'm watching it like a hawk.

If their house sells for 199k, could I get 210k? Just weird to see right now this morning. I love my house, and I am in the process of a refi but damn.

 
A few months ago I started removing my fireplace. Projects don’t seem to go as quickly with young kids and youth sports. Finally nearing the home stretch. I left the chimney in place, so theoretically if I ever sell someone could reverse it.  

Finished the drywall and electrical, but was having a hard time finding a hardwood guy to match my hardwood flooring where the hearth was. It’s a tiny job, and the bids I was getting were basically telling me they weren’t interested. Took me a while to hunt down wood that matches my original 50’s oak planks, but finally found a place that sells it unfinished. Spent the day experimenting with staining some of the extra planks I had to buy (different grit sandpaper, water popping vs no water) and was surprised when I got the stain to perfectly match my existing floor on one of my samples. Recreated it with the same technique on a couple more. Feeling pretty good about myself and am saving about $1500 compared to the bids I got

 
Weekend was suppose to involve getting Mrs. DW a new car as she totaled hers in a snow storm/ice storm three weeks ago. Also putting up Christmas lights.  Added to the list was replacing the guts on a toilet as the overflow pipe had been busted off at the bottom (How does that happen?   Had to be something she or the child did, but not worth the accusations).  Then the oven went teats up.  I ran to the store, located one ,and was told it could be delivered by December 3 to 15.  Well that was not going to work.  We are hosting 16 for dinner on Thanksgiving.   I got my truck, loaded it, pulled the old one, changed out the cords, and put in the new one.  Heavy work for one guy.  A bit sore this morning.  Lights about half way done, toilet running fine, oven in, and Mrs. DW happy with her new ride.  I am looking forward to work this week, I need the rest.

 
We've finally decided what we want to do next, it's just a matter of timing.

A few projects

1. Remodel the bathroom. Plumbing stays mostly intact. Remove the bathtub (we have 2 other tubs in the house still), put a larger shower there. Current shower becomes a large closet. We'd optically want to patch the window currently above the tub (it's one of those thick windows with blocks you can't see through), but that's right where we'd be standing in the shower.  I'd assume this will be less than $10k unless we redo the flooring which could add a bit.

2. New bedroom furniture. While not really a project, this can get expensive as we want to buy a king size, and quality dressers, head board, etc. We'll go for long lasting quality. We have only bought one bedroom set in our 20 years together, a cheap set which we replaced with her parents old set 5 years ago. I fully expect this to last at least 20 years, so quality is important.

3. Landscaping the front yard. It's just gotten dingy despite my efforts. My biggest complaint is the bricks used for the flower bed liner / edging. Thinking of going with a permanent border instead of these stacked stones which never seem to line up right now. Or maybe an eco border. It needs to coordinate with the house per HOA rules. Or maybe go borderless? But then the mulch (could go with stone instead) could get messy.. this is very much in the pre planning phase.

 
The belt on my garage door opener is shredded - i mean it did last 21 years....

So i ordered what I think is a replacement - probably should get a whole new garage door opener...

But for $50 i'll try to replace that before having to do the whole opener

 
Pavers for backyard pool which was poured at the end of March begins this week.

2000 sq feet - sick of looking at paver options between Cambridge & Unilock. Wife driving me nuts.

Cant wait for it to finally be done.

 
I need to replace two external outlets and the crappy exterior boxes/covers they currently have. This is what I want them to be replaced with. I added on this nicer cover vs. those terrible plastic dome covers. I looked all over the place at Home Depot yesterday, but couldn’t find this flush mounted box. Anyone here know exactly what the box in my pics is called and where I can easily get them or something better? TIA

 
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Four tap kegerator in a bright red retro 50'ies fridge, like this
Phase 1 complete (two taps) - doing it in stages because the damn door on the fridge is extra think so I had to get new (four times more expensive) taps with longer shanks...

Also having an issue splitting the gas inside the fridge as the manifold I could get doesn't fit the fittings I can find.

 
I need to replace two external outlets and the crappy exterior boxes/covers they currently have. This is what I want them to be replaced with. I added on this nicer cover vs. those terrible plastic dome covers. I looked all over the place at Home Depot yesterday, but couldn’t find this flush mounted box. Anyone here know exactly what the box in my pics is called and where I can easily get them or something better? TIA
Your post reads a little confusing...

You want an outdoor weatherproof box, yes?  Like this? https://www.homedepot.com/p/1-Gang-Weatherproof-Box-with-Three-1-2-in-Outlets-5320-0/202056213

And then add an outlet (make sure it's WR GFCI).  And add a cover

 
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OK.  Be sure to get WR.  Depending on how they are wired you can do just one GFCI outlet (edit to add or GFCI circuit breaker)

 
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It’s tied into the GFCI in the garage so I got heavy duty weather resistant 20 amp outlets. They’re better than what’s there now. 

 
It’s tied into the GFCI in the garage so I got heavy duty weather resistant 20 amp outlets. They’re better than what’s there now. 
Quick chime-in - you wrote about replacing 15a outlets, and above talk about using 20a outlets.  Just be sure you have your ducks in a row (breaker rating, wiring, and outlet rating)

 

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