Home-owners...What are your current projects? (3 Viewers)

[shuke]

We bought our home several years ago, and it came with smoke alarms that are wired with 9v battery as a 'backup'. Whenever a 9v battery goes bad in one of the alarms, ALL the smoke alarms in the house go off. We quickly learned to change out the batteries every year, regardless of how much 'juice' still remains in them. Also, we have 15 foot ceilings in parts of the home, so I have to run out to the garage and grab the big ladder. Having all the smoke alarms go off in the middle of the night at the same time is PTSD inducing.

I had never heard of smoke alarms wired into the house. Is this common? Is it worth it to uninstall them? They sure are annoying.

Mine are wired but when one battery goes low only that one chirps..... I never had them all go off with a low battery in one

ETA - if you remove the battery they stop. The battery is there in case of a fire that knocks out the wired power.

Yeah, I wish mine only chirped when the battery is low. All alarms go off mega phone LOUD. They also do not stop when the battery is removed. They must all be unplugged to shut them up.

Mine are wired and when a battery is low only that one chirps. What you may be experiencing is that one of the units is defective. I've had this happen a couple times when the one in the hallway outside my kids' bathroom goes bad from accumulated exposure to humidity. When one goes off they all go off, it's hard to determine which unit is defective.

 

[unckeyherb]

Had a shower valve leak that turned out to be worse than we thought, so we are gonna do a whole bathroom remodel, which we planned on doing down the road but it makes sense to do it now.

Got 2 estimates so far, one for $30k and one north of $40k.

WTF?! 2 years ago we completely gutted and remodeled our kitchen and had tile floor put in the entire house and it was less than that. Why are bathrooms so damn expensive? Sheesh.

The cost of materials has gone up.

Anyone ever tackled a project like this on their own?
I can tille, plumb and do flooring so thinking about remodeling my master bath. The one thing that gives me pause is the shower pan and waterproofing. Anyone have a kit they recommend?

Tile-redi pans. Presloped and come in a million variations (center drain, linear on one end, integral seat). I spec these in apartment buildings I design all the time. Cake install.

 

[unckeyherb]

Got a call from my neighbor down the shore a few weeks ago. Said he walked by my place and heard an alarm and “water rushing”. Called the water department and had them turn off the water but it’s too late.

A pipe burst in the ceiling (don’t ask me why the builder ran all the water distribution in an attic, but they did). Most of the piping up there is insulated but this one wasn’t and it froze even though we have heat going. Ceilings are on the floor and all the wood floors and subfloors have to be replaced. Just a ****ing disaster.

Some of you may remember this house, I renovated it a lot, a couple years ago and kept up with posting in this thread. Needless to say the wife is devastated and I’m in claims hell.

 

[Snotbubbles]

Got a call from my neighbor down the shore a few weeks ago. Said he walked by my place and heard an alarm and “water rushing”. Called the water department and had them turn off the water but it’s too late.

A pipe burst in the ceiling (don’t ask me why the builder ran all the water distribution in an attic, but they did). Most of the piping up there is insulated but this one wasn’t and it froze even though we have heat going. Ceilings are on the floor and all the wood floors and subfloors have to be replaced. Just a ****ing disaster.

Some of you may remember this house, I renovated it a lot, a couple years ago and kept up with posting in this thread. Needless to say the wife is devastated and I’m in claims hell.

If you need a good adjuster, my son is the best in the area and my brother owns a water remediation company. Can get them to help you out.

ETA: Make sure you get your own adjuster. The insurance company will low-ball the hell out of you.

 

[unckeyherb]

Got a call from my neighbor down the shore a few weeks ago. Said he walked by my place and heard an alarm and “water rushing”. Called the water department and had them turn off the water but it’s too late.

A pipe burst in the ceiling (don’t ask me why the builder ran all the water distribution in an attic, but they did). Most of the piping up there is insulated but this one wasn’t and it froze even though we have heat going. Ceilings are on the floor and all the wood floors and subfloors have to be replaced. Just a ****ing disaster.

Some of you may remember this house, I renovated it a lot, a couple years ago and kept up with posting in this thread. Needless to say the wife is devastated and I’m in claims hell.

If you need a good adjuster, my son is the best in the area and my brother owns a water remediation company. Can get them to help you out.

ETA: Make sure you get your own adjuster. The insurance company will low-ball the hell out of you.

Thanks man, that’s great advice. I have an adjuster that I’ve worked with in the past-he’s really good. This is my first foray into a claim like this. Believe it or not, two days after my claim, the insurance company sent me a letter stating that they are canceling my policy. wtf.

 

[Judge Smails]

Remodeled the entire inside of the house. Paint, flooring, all new furnishings, electronics. Now starting complete remodel of the outside for curb appeal. Hardscape, landscape, paint, etc. Wanting all of this done before retirement. Interviewing contractors now

 

[The Z Machine]

Believe it or not, two days after my claim, the insurance company sent me a letter stating that they are canceling my policy. wtf.

I hope that doesn't change anything in terms of rectifying the issues.

 

[FarFromHome]

Had a new stand up shower installed. I got the quote of 8200 in summer. Like most companies they kept calling after the quote. I wouldn't answer. Finally answered during December. My mind told me this type business slows down at this time. Told them times are tough but if they could get job done for 7000 I'd green light it. They called next day and said they could. Felt like a victory and I love my new shower.

Wife wants kitchen cabinets painted. Should get a quote here within a couple weeks.

 

[Snotbubbles]

Got a call from my neighbor down the shore a few weeks ago. Said he walked by my place and heard an alarm and “water rushing”. Called the water department and had them turn off the water but it’s too late.

A pipe burst in the ceiling (don’t ask me why the builder ran all the water distribution in an attic, but they did). Most of the piping up there is insulated but this one wasn’t and it froze even though we have heat going. Ceilings are on the floor and all the wood floors and subfloors have to be replaced. Just a ****ing disaster.

Some of you may remember this house, I renovated it a lot, a couple years ago and kept up with posting in this thread. Needless to say the wife is devastated and I’m in claims hell.

If you need a good adjuster, my son is the best in the area and my brother owns a water remediation company. Can get them to help you out.

ETA: Make sure you get your own adjuster. The insurance company will low-ball the hell out of you.

Thanks man, that’s great advice. I have an adjuster that I’ve worked with in the past-he’s really good. This is my first foray into a claim like this. Believe it or not, two days after my claim, the insurance company sent me a letter stating that they are canceling my policy. wtf.

My son says in the PA, NJ, DE area All-State is the best insurance company to work with for water claims. I had Liberty Mutual, but I'm going to switch. If you don't have All-State, check them out for this property since it sounds like the way it is designed, water damage could be a recurring issue.

If you need any help with anything let me know. I had a water damage claim from the last heavy wind/rain storm we had a few months ago so I just had my property repaired and went through the claims process. I'm currently in the appraisal process since the insurance company tried to low-ball me so we had to get 3rd party appraiser come in to give us a number that they think the actual amount of the claim should be. I have my appraisal in March 14th.

 

[Runkle]

Probably time to beef up the security a bit, been getting increased warnings from the local PD. Emphasis now is that the crews use wifi signal jammers to approach the property and then cut the power at the meter (everyone in the area has the box outside the house rather than inside or in the basement). Since most people seem to be using Ring devices and locally-housed systems it's easier to break in by just turning off the electricity. Few people have remotely monitored systems now. Mine is remote and monitored, battery powered with a cell-phone link, so I should be more secure than most but the crooks won't know that until after they break in so won't help me much as a preventative.

From what I know about the B&E types, the keys are 1) look like more of a hassle than your neighbor's house, and 2) look like you have less stuff worth taking than your neighbors do. Not much you can really do to prevent someone who wants to get in from trying it, it's better to just look like a house they don't want to target. More obvious security, that looks hard-wired rather than store-bought wifi cameras, and no stuff outside like bikes, offroading gear, open garage doors, etc. One thing I've done is to get security service signs for a system I don't have off of ebay. Yard sign and stickers for the windows. Every system seems to have a known way around it but at least they won't know what brand I'm using and will use the wrong method if they try lol.

 

[Ron Swanson]

Probably time to beef up the security a bit, been getting increased warnings from the local PD. Emphasis now is that the crews use wifi signal jammers to approach the property and then cut the power at the meter (everyone in the area has the box outside the house rather than inside or in the basement). Since most people seem to be using Ring devices and locally-housed systems it's easier to break in by just turning off the electricity. Few people have remotely monitored systems now. Mine is remote and monitored, battery powered with a cell-phone link, so I should be more secure than most but the crooks won't know that until after they break in so won't help me much as a preventative.

From what I know about the B&E types, the keys are 1) look like more of a hassle than your neighbor's house, and 2) look like you have less stuff worth taking than your neighbors do. Not much you can really do to prevent someone who wants to get in from trying it, it's better to just look like a house they don't want to target. More obvious security, that looks hard-wired rather than store-bought wifi cameras, and no stuff outside like bikes, offroading gear, open garage doors, etc. One thing I've done is to get security service signs for a system I don't have off of ebay. Yard sign and stickers for the windows. Every system seems to have a known way around it but at least they won't know what brand I'm using and will use the wrong method if they try lol.

I put a padlock not too long ago on my meter box/main breaker for exactly this reason. They fit perfectly through the hasp.

 

[Runkle]

Probably time to beef up the security a bit, been getting increased warnings from the local PD. Emphasis now is that the crews use wifi signal jammers to approach the property and then cut the power at the meter (everyone in the area has the box outside the house rather than inside or in the basement). Since most people seem to be using Ring devices and locally-housed systems it's easier to break in by just turning off the electricity. Few people have remotely monitored systems now. Mine is remote and monitored, battery powered with a cell-phone link, so I should be more secure than most but the crooks won't know that until after they break in so won't help me much as a preventative.

From what I know about the B&E types, the keys are 1) look like more of a hassle than your neighbor's house, and 2) look like you have less stuff worth taking than your neighbors do. Not much you can really do to prevent someone who wants to get in from trying it, it's better to just look like a house they don't want to target. More obvious security, that looks hard-wired rather than store-bought wifi cameras, and no stuff outside like bikes, offroading gear, open garage doors, etc. One thing I've done is to get security service signs for a system I don't have off of ebay. Yard sign and stickers for the windows. Every system seems to have a known way around it but at least they won't know what brand I'm using and will use the wrong method if they try lol.

I put a padlock not too long ago on my meter box/main breaker for exactly this reason. They fit perfectly through the hasp.

Yeah I'm doing this too. I read sometimes it's an issue with the local fire department, in case of an emergency, but PD just put out an advisory to do it.

 

[DallasDMac]

I figure you guys could use a laugh so, total newb question...

I bought a vent hood that came with mounting brackets. The brackets have four holes where the hood will mount/hang. Basically, install the mounts to the cabinets, partially drive the four screws that will hold the vent, hang the vent on them, then tighten the four screws. Thing is, the holes are waaaaaay to small for the four screws. I have stripped two already trying to drive them in to the holes. Is the issue something as simple as I need a heavier screw driver? Or do I need a threading tool to enlarge the holes? Hard to believe I am having this issue when I am using the installation kit from the manufacturer, but here I am, hoodless. And clueless.

 

[Dezbelief]

One thing I've done is to get security service signs for a system I don't have off of ebay. Yard sign and stickers for the windows. Every system seems to have a known way around it but at least they won't know what brand I'm using and will use the wrong method if they try lol.

I know someone who renames routers to another brand name, throws off hackers sometimes.

 

[AAABatteries]

I figure you guys could use a laugh so, total newb question...

I bought a vent hood that came with mounting brackets. The brackets have four holes where the hood will mount/hang. Basically, install the mounts to the cabinets, partially drive the four screws that will hold the vent, hang the vent on them, then tighten the four screws. Thing is, the holes are waaaaaay to small for the four screws. I have stripped two already trying to drive them in to the holes. Is the issue something as simple as I need a heavier screw driver? Or do I need a threading tool to enlarge the holes? Hard to believe I am having this issue when I am using the installation kit from the manufacturer, but here I am, hoodless. And clueless.

Can you pre-drill the holes?

 

[The Z Machine]

I figure you guys could use a laugh so, total newb question...

I bought a vent hood that came with mounting brackets. The brackets have four holes where the hood will mount/hang. Basically, install the mounts to the cabinets, partially drive the four screws that will hold the vent, hang the vent on them, then tighten the four screws. Thing is, the holes are waaaaaay to small for the four screws. I have stripped two already trying to drive them in to the holes. Is the issue something as simple as I need a heavier screw driver? Or do I need a threading tool to enlarge the holes? Hard to believe I am having this issue when I am using the installation kit from the manufacturer, but here I am, hoodless. And clueless.

Are you drilling pilot holes prior to driving the screws? What are the screws being driven into? Anchors? Wood studs? Block?What tool are you using to drive the screws?

 

[belljr]

A vent hood should just have basic machine metal screws that screw in through holes you drilled in the cabinet top. They usually have some type of rubber spacer on the ends to stop from going through

 

[shuke]

I figure you guys could use a laugh so, total newb question...

I bought a vent hood that came with mounting brackets. The brackets have four holes where the hood will mount/hang. Basically, install the mounts to the cabinets, partially drive the four screws that will hold the vent, hang the vent on them, then tighten the four screws. Thing is, the holes are waaaaaay to small for the four screws. I have stripped two already trying to drive them in to the holes. Is the issue something as simple as I need a heavier screw driver? Or do I need a threading tool to enlarge the holes? Hard to believe I am having this issue when I am using the installation kit from the manufacturer, but here I am, hoodless. And clueless.

Are you talking about a bolt going into a threaded hole, or a screw going into a pilot hole?

If the former, it's possible based on your description, that when you "hang the vent", it is putting so much weight on the bolts that they are not lined up with the threaded holes and not able to start threading. If it's the latter, then drill a slightly larger pilot hole, but again maybe hold the vent up so it is not putting weight on the screws while you are trying to drive them. Pictures would help.

 

[shuke]

The back of our house faces west, and the sun makes it an almost unusable space during the summer. We got an awning last fall. I put up roll down screens on the sides to give us some additional privacy, but we have such ferocious wind they they weren't the answer. So now I'm building privacy walls on the two sides of the patio.