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Home-owners...What are your current projects? (4 Viewers)

tankless requires a special duct so in addition to the unit cost there is usually that cost as well and as to the recirc pump i dont have one but my shack is small enough that it would never be worth it the hot water gets anywhere fast as all get out anyhow yay me take that to the bank brohan

 
Hot water heater went tonight. I only have 1/2" gas line, so I'm assuming tankless would cost :moneybag:   :moneybag: . Anybody used a 50 gal tank and something like this
Depends on how big you need.  I was able to install a Rinnai 6.5 gallon tankless when our downstairs 40 gallon tank went out just a few weeks ago and it runs on 1/2 gas.  Got lucky on the venting since I was able to mount it on the outside wall of the house and run the water lines in. Had gas right there. This one only serves 1.5 baths, our bar, and the kitchen so 6.5 is fine.

 
Hot water heater went tonight. I only have 1/2" gas line, so I'm assuming tankless would cost :moneybag:   :moneybag: . Anybody used a 50 gal tank and something like this
How long between turning on hot water in the shower and receiving hot water for you?

That link seems like it's solving a problem that doesn't really exist.  For me it's maybe a 30 second wait max.  So I can buy this, spend more $$ and get that down to 10 seconds?  

 
How long between turning on hot water in the shower and receiving hot water for you?

That link seems like it's solving a problem that doesn't really exist.  For me it's maybe a 30 second wait max.  So I can buy this, spend more $$ and get that down to 10 seconds?  
A couple of minutes. HW tank is in the garage, on the other side of the house.  Old one is 15 years old, though. It's possible a new one helps bridge that gap on its own.

 
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When I installed my HW heater I added a recirculating pump. I used to wait A minute or two  for hot water to get to my shower.  Now it is hot within 10 seconds of turning it on. 

Definitely a great addition, easy to install and cost a little over $100 

 
For someone who hasn't done much home renovations, how hard is it to strip out a tiled stand-up shower (not in a tub, just a 3x3 or 4x4' area) and install one of those once-piece plastic shower walls.

 
For someone who hasn't done much home renovations, how hard is it to strip out a tiled stand-up shower (not in a tub, just a 3x3 or 4x4' area) and install one of those once-piece plastic shower walls.
It's not very hard, just time consuming.  And honestly, you might be able to install it right over the tile.

 
adonis said:
For someone who hasn't done much home renovations, how hard is it to strip out a tiled stand-up shower (not in a tub, just a 3x3 or 4x4' area) and install one of those once-piece plastic shower walls.
pretty straightforward, assuming no water damage behind it

Are you handy with drywall patch / repair?  

One thing I would consider is not being penny-wise pound-foolish.  Consider the whole bathroom and if any other upgrades need to happen - better to do them together.  For instance, how is the lighting in the shower, is there a light above?  How is shower storage / shelving, do you need more or better?  People love installed towel warmers, those are fairly cheap and not too bad to put in.  Etc  Is this for a rental or your house?  Post a couple photos for some general feedback

 
pretty straightforward, assuming no water damage behind it

Are you handy with drywall patch / repair?  

One thing I would consider is not being penny-wise pound-foolish.  Consider the whole bathroom and if any other upgrades need to happen - better to do them together.  For instance, how is the lighting in the shower, is there a light above?  How is shower storage / shelving, do you need more or better?  People love installed towel warmers, those are fairly cheap and not too bad to put in.  Etc  Is this for a rental or your house?  Post a couple photos for some general feedback
Good points, thanks.  Hadn't even considered towel warmers.

I've patched drywall before, but only twice so I wouldn't say I'm handy.  It's for our house (not rental), although we have another bathroom or two we could use while work is being done.

Will get photos.

 
I have a creature in either my wall or ceiling in the family room.   No idea how it could have got in there. Only hear it on occasion. Not sure of the next move, don't want to cut holes in my wall/ceiling....

 
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I have a creature in either my wall or ceiling in the family room.   No idea how it could have got in there. Only here it on occasion. Not sure of the next move, don't want to cut holes in my wall/ceiling....
My guess is the creature is running around your house when it’s not in your ceiling. 

I would start with mouse traps in the room(s) where you hear the noise  and see if you catch anything.   

 
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I have a creature in either my wall or ceiling in the family room.   No idea how it could have got in there. Only hear it on occasion. Not sure of the next move, don't want to cut holes in my wall/ceiling....
Can you borrow a cat at least for the attic?

 
Can you borrow a cat at least for the attic?
not in the attic.   Half my family room has the secondfloor over it the other half is the roof of the 1st story.

But the weird part is i had 21" on insualtion blown in there a couple years ago.

All the scurry is insulated walls.....    :unsure:

And you only hear it once in a while.

I haven't found any droppings or anything....  

 
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Been doing a bunch of wiring jobs. 
 

converted 4 outlets from 2 pronger to 3. 
rewired an overstuffed box in the basement 

added a new fluorescent light in basement 

just added new outlet on 1st floor. ####ed up the plaster around it of course so also mixed up some new plaster to patch it all. 
 

and cracked a great beer (Aeronaut X Ray Vision) to celebrate by myself 

 
Question to the diy electricians...

I have built in shelves on each side of the fireplace.  Also on each side there is an active outlet where you can plug in lamps or whatever to be powered on while sitting on the shelves.

I'd like to give the inside frame of these built-ins a nice constant/consistent light glow by adding those stick on led strips, but I don't want to have to see a big plug in the middle of the wall for them to work.   Is it possible to just hardwire these LED strip lights to each of the outlets to give them the power they need to work properly and just always be on?

Found something like below and copied a bullet pt of info from the details.    Is a "6-7 AMP 12V power supply" different than the outlet wiring?

------

~ These 12V strips use 72W of power so it would need to be paired with a 6AMP or 7AMP 12V power supply. Just connect it to a AC to DC power supply with the DC connector or just connect the positive and negative leads to the power supply in order to light up the strips.

https://www.amazon.com/Professional-Non-Waterproof-ULListed-Lighting-Projects/dp/B07TYXTD9V/ref=sr_1_56_sspa?keywords=hardwired%2Bled%2Bstrip%2Blighting&qid=1578076057&sr=8-56-spons&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUEzUVlFQUdDNjlINDFOJmVuY3J5cHRlZElkPUEwMzkwMTU0M0xCRjM1RE1KM1dPMiZlbmNyeXB0ZWRBZElkPUEwNjIzMTkwMjhQMEFISUdLMlA1VCZ3aWRnZXROYW1lPXNwX2J0ZiZhY3Rpb249Y2xpY2tSZWRpcmVjdCZkb05vdExvZ0NsaWNrPXRydWU&th=1

 
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  Is a "6-7 AMP 12V power supply" different than the outlet wiring?
This is like a wall wart/phone charger except it outputs 12VDC. It converts the 120VAC of your home wiring to 12VDC.  The lights need 6-7 amps of DC power, so buying one somewhat larger is a good idea. Think of it this way, these work just like outdoor low voltage landscape lighting.  Something like this would work if you cut the barrel end off and strip the two conductors inside.

https://smile.amazon.com/ALITOVE-100-240V-Converter-Transformer-5-5x2-1mm/dp/B07MXXXBV8/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?keywords=12+VDC+10+amp+power+supply&qid=1578077244&sr=8-1-spons&psc=1&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUExMkFWWDJCM0ZMUk4zJmVuY3J5cHRlZElkPUEwODMzODY1MlcyTlFTNUtKQVJFTyZlbmNyeXB0ZWRBZElkPUEwMTM5MTY4MkZaR0UzQkZBRFlPNSZ3aWRnZXROYW1lPXNwX2F0ZiZhY3Rpb249Y2xpY2tSZWRpcmVjdCZkb05vdExvZ0NsaWNrPXRydWU=

 
Can you post a photo?

you need to have the transformer somewhere (house wiring is 120V AC, there LEDs need 7V DC). That’s the big black plug you have for radios or modems, etc. for under cabinet lighting that is almost always hidden in one of the cabinets where it is not seen. 
 

So your trick is to find a place to hide that (ie not your existing outlets next to the shelves) or find a different solution 

 
This is like a wall wart/phone charger except it outputs 12VDC. It converts the 120VAC of your home wiring to 12VDC.  The lights need 6-7 amps of DC power, so buying one somewhat larger is a good idea. Think of it this way, these work just like outdoor low voltage landscape lighting.  Something like this would work if you cut the barrel end off and strip the two conductors inside.

https://smile.amazon.com/ALITOVE-100-240V-Converter-Transformer-5-5x2-1mm/dp/B07MXXXBV8/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?keywords=12+VDC+10+amp+power+supply&qid=1578077244&sr=8-1-spons&psc=1&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUExMkFWWDJCM0ZMUk4zJmVuY3J5cHRlZElkPUEwODMzODY1MlcyTlFTNUtKQVJFTyZlbmNyeXB0ZWRBZElkPUEwMTM5MTY4MkZaR0UzQkZBRFlPNSZ3aWRnZXROYW1lPXNwX2F0ZiZhY3Rpb249Y2xpY2tSZWRpcmVjdCZkb05vdExvZ0NsaWNrPXRydWU=
That’s helpful, thanks. I was hoping to avoid the big plug and converter box but it sounds like that’s just what is needed to get correct voltage.  The built ins have cabinets below the shelves, so the more I think about it I could probably just plug something like what you linked into outlet and drill hole in back of cabinet to the mount and hide the converter box inside the cabinet.  Then can drill another small hole coming up to where I want the led strip lights to start (so cord partially hidden anyways)  

 
Can you post a photo?

you need to have the transformer somewhere (house wiring is 120V AC, there LEDs need 7V DC). That’s the big black plug you have for radios or modems, etc. for under cabinet lighting that is almost always hidden in one of the cabinets where it is not seen. 
 

So your trick is to find a place to hide that (ie not your existing outlets next to the shelves) or find a different solution 
Reading my mind...just posted a reply above to Ron that matches what you’re suggesting I believe. 
 

pic below   The outlets are on the back wall right behind the first shelf above cabinet   Can’t see them in the pics as covered by stuff

https://flic.kr/p/2i9yznw

 
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Reading my mind...just posted a reply above to Ron that matches what you’re suggesting I believe. 
Yep, exactly. Might need to add an outlet below if you don’t already have one but that is easy. 
 

last part is figuring out control. I’d probably do a smart plug to plug the transformer into, controllable and programmable via Alexa / others 

edit to add - don’t buy something and cut it up. The UCL (get ones that can do different colors) will come with it own power supply 

 
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Yep, exactly. Might need to add an outlet below if you don’t already have one but that is easy. 
 

last part is figuring out control. I’d probably do a smart plug to plug the transformer into, controllable and programmable via Alexa / others 

edit to add - don’t buy something and cut it up. The UCL (get ones that can do different colors) will come with it own power supply 
Thx. I edited my post above to include a pic if helpful at all. 
 

My upcoming project is to tile over the brick and paint the built in cabinets/shelves, add handles to drawers and doors, etc....that is why I’m thinking about this lighting. 

 
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Electrical question....

I have one outlet that both the top and bottom works by an on/off wall switch. 

For visual, its an outlet behind the gold framed picture on the left (on back wall of built in cabinet)...

https://www.flickr.com/photos/145687765@N04/49323645412/

I’d like that one outlet to just always be live and not controlled by the switch.

I haven’t explored the wiring to it yet (will tonight), but guessing since both top and bottom are controlled by one switch then there likely will just be one set of wires leading to it (one black and one white)?    If there are no other wires back there is there any easy solution to making it a constantly live outlet while still allowing the switch to control other outlets around the room as they do now?

 
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Electrical question....

I have one outlet that both the top and bottom works by an on/off wall switch. 

For visual, its an outlet behind the gold framed picture on the left (on back wall of built in cabinet)...

https://www.flickr.com/photos/145687765@N04/49323645412/

I’d like that one outlet to just always be live and not controlled by the switch.

I haven’t explored the wiring to it yet (will tonight), but guessing since both top and bottom are controlled by one switch then there likely will just be one set of wires leading to it (one black and one white)?    If there are no other wires back there is there any easy solution to making it a constantly live outlet while still allowing the switch to control other outlets around the room as they do now?
offdee, your post is a little confusing.

Tell me if I am right or wrong

You have a wall switch.  This wall switch turns your duplex outlet (something like this) on and off.  If the switch is on, the outlets (top and bottom) is on, and if the switch is off, top and bottom are off.  You'd like to make this outlet 'always on', such that the switch position has no impact on the outlet?

That makes sense to me...  the last part was confusing (does this same switch turn other outlets on/off?)

 
Could use some feedback on the below...  

I am considering an addition to replace exisiting 3 season porches with finished space, including 2 bathrooms. We have always viewed these porches as unused space (too hot in summer, too cool in cold months) and want more utility out of them. Separate from this my wife really wants her own bathroom separate from me and our two sons, with various complaints from aiming ability to cleanliness standards. And lastly, we see the advantage to a first floor bathroom.

OK. Home is in New England, 100 years old, HCOL. See photos. What I am considering is tearing the porches down (they are currently on concrete footings) and rebuilding roughly to the same footprint. I may expand the first floor, but not likely the second floor (we just converted the attic space to finished space a couple years ago and added solar a year ago. I don't want to 'undo and redo' that work). Roof is recent, house is updated and in great shape.

What I am thinking: Master bath on the second floor, potentially with a closet. Half bath on first floor (likely behind dining room) and new mudroom and entrance to the house.

A couple of notes:
-Will pay for this primarily with cash, potentially $10-20K in HELOC that would get paid off within a year
-I intend to GC it. I did the same on a recent renovation and it worked fine. I am an engineer by trade and fairly handy
-I plan to so some work myself. I will need the 'box' built, and will rely on a carpenter for interior carpentry. Things like floor, tile, trim, paint, etc I will do.
-My FIL is an electrician, so free labor
-Would need a variance from the city, but with an existing structure there should be no issues. Neighbors are friends, expect no issue.
-We will live in the house for the next 15 years (estimate)
-House prices are $300-400 / sq ft in my area. Usually toward the higher side if the house is nice. I am assuming that this addition adds ~200 sq ft and 2 bathrooms, and that it will add between $50-70K in value to the house. If this estimate sounds unreasonable let me know. I am willing to 'spend' up to $20K on 'lost' value (ie money above what value the addition adds to the house), but not much more.

https://imgur.com/a/PPeqj7L
Living Room (you can see the door leading to 1st floor porch in the photo) - https://ssl.cdn-redfin.com/photo/52/mbp ... 47_2_0.jpg
First Floor Porch - https://ssl.cdn-redfin.com/photo/52/mbp ... 47_7_0.jpg
2nd Floor Porch - https://ssl.cdn-redfin.com/photo/52/mbp ... 7_16_0.jpg

My cost estimate is in the IMGUR link above - Please let me know if you think I am significantly off in any area.
Estimate: $72.5K, $360/sq ft

And....THANKS!

 
Electrical question....

I have one outlet that both the top and bottom works by an on/off wall switch. 

For visual, its an outlet behind the gold framed picture on the left (on back wall of built in cabinet)...

https://www.flickr.com/photos/145687765@N04/49323645412/

I’d like that one outlet to just always be live and not controlled by the switch.

I haven’t explored the wiring to it yet (will tonight), but guessing since both top and bottom are controlled by one switch then there likely will just be one set of wires leading to it (one black and one white)?    If there are no other wires back there is there any easy solution to making it a constantly live outlet while still allowing the switch to control other outlets around the room as they do now?
https://www.do-it-yourself-help.com/images/switched-receptacle-wiring-diagram.gif

(notes, grounding may look different within your electrical box)

Basically you need to find the hot wire that is associated with that outlet you want always on, remove it from the switch and connect it to the source hot.  

Some points:

-You need to have a current tester to do work like this, and know how to use it.  

-Only work in a box with all power shut off at the breaker panel, and only after you verify the entire box is dead via a current tester.  

-Cap all connections with wire nuts

 
offdee, your post is a little confusing.

Tell me if I am right or wrong

You have a wall switch.  This wall switch turns your duplex outlet (something like this) on and off.  If the switch is on, the outlets (top and bottom) is on, and if the switch is off, top and bottom are off.  You'd like to make this outlet 'always on', such that the switch position has no impact on the outlet?

That makes sense to me...  the last part was confusing (does this same switch turn other outlets on/off?)
Yep, you're exactly correct.

I pulled the outlet out last night and there is only one set of wires in the box unfortunately (which means it's the wiring directly from the switch).   I talked to a neighbor who is an electrician and he said will need to run new wire to the box.  There is a different outlet about 5 feet away from this one that is "always on" so guessing will have to tap into that one for the new wire.

 
Yep, you're exactly correct.

I pulled the outlet out last night and there is only one set of wires in the box unfortunately (which means it's the wiring directly from the switch).   I talked to a neighbor who is an electrician and he said will need to run new wire to the box.  There is a different outlet about 5 feet away from this one that is "always on" so guessing will have to tap into that one for the new wire.
The only trick with 5 feet away is that means there are at least 2 studs in the way, likely 3. It is not simple to fish horizontally in finished walls. 
 

what’s above/ below? Is either unfinished space (basement / attic)? 
 

Based off what you’re writing I’d hire your neighbor for the job 

 
Been doing a bunch of wiring jobs. 
 

converted 4 outlets from 2 pronger to 3. 
rewired an overstuffed box in the basement 

added a new fluorescent light in basement 

just added new outlet on 1st floor. ####ed up the plaster around it of course so also mixed up some new plaster to patch it all. 
 

and cracked a great beer (Aeronaut X Ray Vision) to celebrate by myself 
For some reason I have never needed 3-prong outlets in my master bedroom until the past month, where I've run into multiple instances where I do need it.  Every outlet in the room is 2-prong.  Need to add this to my list of #### to do ASAP.

 
Yep, you're exactly correct.

I pulled the outlet out last night and there is only one set of wires in the box unfortunately (which means it's the wiring directly from the switch).   I talked to a neighbor who is an electrician and he said will need to run new wire to the box.  There is a different outlet about 5 feet away from this one that is "always on" so guessing will have to tap into that one for the new wire.
The only trick with 5 feet away is that means there are at least 2 studs in the way, likely 3. It is not simple to fish horizontally in finished walls. 
 

what’s above/ below? Is either unfinished space (basement / attic)? 
 

Based off what you’re writing I’d hire your neighbor for the job 
It's honestly not so bad if you get one of these.  Just cut a bunch of rectangular holes in the wall that allow enough room to drill through the studs and then replace and patch.  The cuts are so clean that a little joint compound and matching paint make the patchwork disappear.  I did this in my kitchen remodel because I needed to add outlets to pass inspection and it's extremely difficult to tell where the patches are.  I'm not convinced my wife could point them out.

Pro tip: If cutting multiple holes, cut them in different shapes/sizes so that it's easy to tell which piece of drywall goes back in each hole.

 
Does anyone pay for annual maintenance on HVAC? I just signed up for one on my 20 year old furnace. $300 for the year. Includes 2 tuneups (1 heat, 1 ac) and 10% off all parts. However, my old house I had a contract with a different company for $30/month that includes the tuneups and part replacement was free. I think I should've signed up for that one.

That being said, my last house I paid the maintenance plan for 12 years. That's $4800 I could've had and I never called them for anything other than the tuneups (which they barely even do anything).

 
Does anyone pay for annual maintenance on HVAC? I just signed up for one on my 20 year old furnace. $300 for the year. Includes 2 tuneups (1 heat, 1 ac) and 10% off all parts. However, my old house I had a contract with a different company for $30/month that includes the tuneups and part replacement was free. I think I should've signed up for that one.

That being said, my last house I paid the maintenance plan for 12 years. That's $4800 I could've had and I never called them for anything other than the tuneups (which they barely even do anything).
For me, I had the guy come out once, and had him show me exactly what he does for maintenance.  Then I just did that myself on the same frequency.

 
For me, I had the guy come out once, and had him show me exactly what he does for maintenance.  Then I just did that myself on the same frequency.
Thanks, yeah I wanted to get it for this year because just bought the house in May. Once contract is up I wasn't planning on renewing.

 
The only trick with 5 feet away is that means there are at least 2 studs in the way, likely 3. It is not simple to fish horizontally in finished walls. 
 

what’s above/ below? Is either unfinished space (basement / attic)? 
 

Based off what you’re writing I’d hire your neighbor for the job 
That’s an excellent point about above and below....our basement is mostly finished but right below this spot is the unfinished storage portion of the basement where water heater and furnace is.    Could probably easily fish wire down to the basement. 
 

Once I run that wire what would I do....find nearest junction box and just wire nut onto the black and white?

 
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That’s an excellent point about above and below....our basement is mostly finished but right below this spot is the unfinished storage portion of the basement where water heater and furnace is.    Could probably easily fish wire down to the basement. 
 

Once I run that wire what would I do....find nearest junction box and just wire nut onto the black and white?
There's basically two tasks here:

1. Remove existing wiring from switch to outlet.  This may be very easy or not.  Probably easy though.  With everything powered down, you identify both sides of the wire and then just pull from the outlet side, hopefully the wire comes right out.  You don't want to leave abandoned wires if you can help it.

2. Run a new power wire to the outlet.  Find a nearby junction box in the basement with the same amp service (presumably 15 amp, look for white wiring).  Ensure the box has a little room for another wire.  With everything powered down run a new wire from that junction box over to the outlet area, then fish it up the wall.  You will need a fish wire to do this.  There are lots of little gotchas in here though, such as:

-make sure the junction box is not switched

-If the box looks overly complicated then pick a different one.  Many boxes contain multiple circuits, best left to more experienced electricians

-stapling the wire every 18-24 inches, making it neat

-running along joists, there are "do's" and "don'ts" for this, ie code.  

-attaching a clamp on the knockout of the box (prevents the wire from being cut by the box)

-proper grounding, especially with older wiring.  There are too many scenarios to describe, but generally if there is existing ground just jump onto it.  If there is no ground come back and ask.

-Leave plenty of slack while running the wire.  Amateurs usually go light and pay for it.  Be a little heavy

-Make it neat (did I already say that?).  Worst thing an inspector can see (not for this, but for future projects) is non-neat work, will start to look a lot closer at whatever he is there to inspect.

 
What we doing? Cleaning it? Issue w the damper? 
will link this pic again for visual...
https://flic.kr/p/2i9yznw

you can see right below the hanging art there are a about 13 vertical open gaps. You can also see the switch with 2 knobs that controls the 2 big fan blowers in the front corners of hearth (under grey grate covers). 

This used to be a wood burning fireplace that we converted to a gas insert (vents out up existing chimney).  We NEVER use the blower.  When you turn on the fans, the open gaps under the picture shoot out air. When the blower is off (again 100% of the time it’s off) no air comes out of those gaps under picture.   When gas fire is on (and blower is off) it’s just slightly warm out of those gaps when put hand up to it.  
 

Basically I’m planning to cover all the brick with Durock and new tile... just planning to remove the knobs and fans.  My question surrounds the vent gaps under hanging art....my plan is to fill those in with brick mortar and just Durock and tile over the top.  Any concerns there? 

 
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will link this pic again for visual...
https://flic.kr/p/2i9yznw

you can see right below the hanging art there are a about 13 vertical open gaps. You can also see the switch with 2 knobs that controls the 2 big fan blowers in the front corners of hearth (under grey grate covers). 

This used to be a wood burning fireplace that we converted to a gas insert (vents out up existing chimney).  We NEVER use the blower.  When you turn on the fans, the open gaps under the picture shoot out air. When the blower is off (again 100% of the time it’s off) no air comes out of those gaps under picture.   When gas fire is on (and blower is off) it’s just slightly warm out of those gaps when put hand up to it.  
 

Basically I’m planning to cover all the brick with Durock and new tile... just planning to remove the knobs and fans.  My question surrounds the vent gaps under hanging art....my plan is to fill those in with brick mortar and just Durock and tile over the top.  Any concerns there? 
You want to remove power to those fans.  I am guessing they have their own circuit?  I would hire an electrician to fully remove the power

From there, I think your plan of filling the gaps and removing the fans is good but am not 100% on this

 
Looking at the photo, it seems fairly clear that the fans take in air from the room via those lower grates, and then expel the air through the slots above the fireplace, blowing past the chimney flue pipe in the process.  Just go light on the mortar when filling in, don't go crazy

 
Looking at the photo, it seems fairly clear that the fans take in air from the room via those lower grates, and then expel the air through the slots above the fireplace, blowing past the chimney flue pipe in the process.  Just go light on the mortar when filling in, don't go crazy
Yeah, when turn the fans on (inside the grates) it’s feels just like turning a desk fan on out of these open slots below art if put hand up to it. 
 

the fan blowers are loud as hell too. 
 

yep just plan to fill slots with mortar as a outside seal coat and not go crazy with it, as you said. 

 
Finally got around to putting tile down on my back patio, it turned out pretty good if I do say so myself. Not bad for a couple of first timers, it took us about 3 hours counting breaks. It's not perfect, but it beats paying someone else to do it. Gonna grout it tomorrow, and then we're gonna get the patio screened in some time before spring.

Before: https://i.imgur.com/WySmBxI.jpg

After: https://i.imgur.com/8TEBhkw.jpg

 
will link this pic again for visual...
https://flic.kr/p/2i9yznw

you can see right below the hanging art there are a about 13 vertical open gaps. You can also see the switch with 2 knobs that controls the 2 big fan blowers in the front corners of hearth (under grey grate covers). 

This used to be a wood burning fireplace that we converted to a gas insert (vents out up existing chimney).  We NEVER use the blower.  When you turn on the fans, the open gaps under the picture shoot out air. When the blower is off (again 100% of the time it’s off) no air comes out of those gaps under picture.   When gas fire is on (and blower is off) it’s just slightly warm out of those gaps when put hand up to it.  
 

Basically I’m planning to cover all the brick with Durock and new tile... just planning to remove the knobs and fans.  My question surrounds the vent gaps under hanging art....my plan is to fill those in with brick mortar and just Durock and tile over the top.  Any concerns there? 
If you EVER anticipate selling the house, I would suggest you leave the knobs for the fan blowers.

I have a fireplace wood-burning insert and if it wasn't for the blower, it would not heat much more than the living room.  With the blower, it helps heat the house.  (We use this heat to supplement the oil heating of the house.  The thermostat is set to 62 and the insert gets us up to 70ish.)

I would just think having the blower to allow for additional heat would be another selling point.

 
Wingnut said:
Finally got around to putting tile down on my back patio, it turned out pretty good if I do say so myself. Not bad for a couple of first timers, it took us about 3 hours counting breaks. It's not perfect, but it beats paying someone else to do it. Gonna grout it tomorrow, and then we're gonna get the patio screened in some time before spring.

Before: https://i.imgur.com/WySmBxI.jpg

After: https://i.imgur.com/8TEBhkw.jpg
Finished it up earlier today...man, grouting is worse than laying tile. 

https://i.imgur.com/WgHlrGn.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/Z2vraBC.jpg

 
Anyone refinish hardwoods?  My father in law is mister handy man and recommended I hire someone, said when he did it it was quite difficult to keep the floor level.  I've got maple that's about 12 years old and needs a refinish.  Quote was $1800 I think, just seems not that difficult.

 
Anyone refinish hardwoods?  My father in law is mister handy man and recommended I hire someone, said when he did it it was quite difficult to keep the floor level.  I've got maple that's about 12 years old and needs a refinish.  Quote was $1800 I think, just seems not that difficult.
This is one I’d pay the pros to do

 
Apart from buying a house, then setting up a frost safe rainwater collection system, then a filtration system that can be hooked up to my hobby brewery that will also have to be set up!

 
Anyone refinish hardwoods?  My father in law is mister handy man and recommended I hire someone, said when he did it it was quite difficult to keep the floor level.  I've got maple that's about 12 years old and needs a refinish.  Quote was $1800 I think, just seems not that difficult.
I just did a repair job, matching unfinished wood to my finished floors, but haven’t dealt with sanding off the old finish, which I’ve heard is a #####. I couldn’t find a bid of less than $1500 for my small repair job, so $1800 to refinish an entire floor seems reasonable to me.  I had a friend who tried refinishing his floors and it looked like ####. It’s not rocket science, but if this is your first time doing it, you’ll make some mistakes which I’m sure you’d learn from if you did it 2-3 times more. If you can live with the mistakes, give it a go, otherwise let the pros do it. 

 

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