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I've done some surfing, but as I age, I find the hardest part is what I call "the move" or "pop up", which is the moment when you catch a wave and press up from being on your chest to stand up riding. It requires great timing and agility (almost like a yoga pose) and my hips just aren't flexible enough. Here's a good set of pointers. I prefer paddleboarding now, which allows you to bypass the pop up and just ride the wave.
