Any Ideas On How To Fix a Custom Made Brick Mailbox? (1 Viewer)

[jeaton6]

So my wife slammed the car into our brick/block mailbox which is custom made (10 layers of about 60 total blocks). The top 8 layers were knocked off the remaining 2 layers of base (probably about 50 blocks at 20ish pounds each knocked off). Each block was independently cemented on. Probably about 2 ft x 2 ft. So, how in the world do I get the top back on (hoping to not have to undo each brick and recement and attach). Are there mini cranes or is this a good old fashioned manpower job?

Thanks for any help!

 

[Joe Summer]

Pics please.

 

[BroadwayG]

duct tape

 

[STEADYMOBBIN 22]

Pics please.

 

[Angry Beavers]

Look at me... I have a custom made brick mailbox and higher car insurance rates and wife that can't drive!

In all seriousness, did the top come off in one piece? Sounds like you need to get a few buddies and set in back in place on top of from fresh cement...

 

[Joe Summer]

I hope this isn't it

 

[TheAristocrat]

After applying brushable coating to the panels, you'll need corrosion-resistant metal stucco lath. If you can't find metal stucco lath, use carbon-fiber stucco lath! Now parge the lath.

 

[jeaton6]

No idea how to upload a photo on here (only ever use mobile) but added it to my profile picture...

 

[Joe Summer]

No idea how to upload a photo on here (only ever use mobile) but added it to my profile picture...

New game for teenage punks: Mailbox Jenga.

 

[DocHolliday]

When I build those, I glue them together. Is this glued or really cemented together?

 

[belljr]

When I build those, I glue them together. Is this glued or really cemented together?

looks glued in the pic.go buy some masonry glue. Get a couple guys to help you lift it. Worst case it falls apart and you redo.

You could also chisel a couple rows off reglue the bottom to make the load lighter

 

[jeaton6]

I think you're right it's glued on. Good idea on chiseling some pieces off to lighten the load. I honestly don't know if even 4 or 5 guys can lift this thing. Someone suggested creating some kind of wedge to help raise it as well.

 

[satch]

Set up a steel motorcycle-to-truck bed style ramp for the top part to be pushed up and onto the top. Use a truck with a plow ti push it up the ramp, and then to nudge it into position.

First you'd have to use the plow to move the top part far enough away from the bottom to make room for the ramp. Use the plow to lift/tilt the top part just enough to wedge the ramp in place between the two parts.

 

[belljr]

Could rent a small bobcat

 

[STEADYMOBBIN 22]

Emmitt Smith never would have hit the mailbox.

 

[LAUNCH]

Start hiding the mail!

 

[Angry Beavers]

Create a pulley system with a winch. You will be fine.

 

[Johnny Bing]

The amount of time it is going to take you to build a pulley system or the money to rent a skid. I'd just cut it into some more management pieces.

It isn't going to take that long to set the pieces and cement them if you are already mixing cement to join the two pieces.

 

[belljr]

Engine hoist

 

[STEADYMOBBIN 22]

The amount of time it is going to take you to build a pulley system or the money to rent a skid. I'd just cut it into some more management pieces.

It isn't going to take that long to set the pieces and cement them if you are already mixing cement to join the two pieces.

They sell cement in a tube at HD specifically made for this application.

 

[belljr]

Yes it's called masonry glue

 

[Johnny Bing]

The amount of time it is going to take you to build a pulley system or the money to rent a skid. I'd just cut it into some more management pieces.

It isn't going to take that long to set the pieces and cement them if you are already mixing cement to join the two pieces.

They sell cement in a tube at HD specifically made for this application.

In all the masonry projects I have done, I prefer to mix it myself so I can determine the consistency. The tube is a route many people go for small jobs, but adding water and stirring isn't too hard.

 

[St. Louis Bob]

Unique up behind it.

 

[St. Louis Bob]

Never mind, that's how you catch a unique rabbit.

 

[STEADYMOBBIN 22]

The amount of time it is going to take you to build a pulley system or the money to rent a skid. I'd just cut it into some more management pieces.

It isn't going to take that long to set the pieces and cement them if you are already mixing cement to join the two pieces.

They sell cement in a tube at HD specifically made for this application.

In all the masonry projects I have done, I prefer to mix it myself so I can determine the consistency. The tube is a route many people go for small jobs, but adding water and stirring isn't too hard.

Our friend here is asking us how to repair something that is the equivalent of stacking blocks together. I'm not sure I trust him with concrete mix and water.

 

[belljr]

Did your wife yell Jenga?

 

[Johnny Bing]

The amount of time it is going to take you to build a pulley system or the money to rent a skid. I'd just cut it into some more management pieces.

It isn't going to take that long to set the pieces and cement them if you are already mixing cement to join the two pieces.

They sell cement in a tube at HD specifically made for this application.

In all the masonry projects I have done, I prefer to mix it myself so I can determine the consistency. The tube is a route many people go for small jobs, but adding water and stirring isn't too hard.

Our friend here is asking us how to repair something that is the equivalent of stacking blocks together. I'm not sure I trust him with concrete mix and water.

very true. keep it simple.

 

[Captain Quinoa]

Lift with your legs not your back.

 

[tri-man 47]

I think you're right it's glued on. Good idea on chiseling some pieces off to lighten the load. I honestly don't know if even 4 or 5 guys can lift this thing. Someone suggested creating some kind of wedge to help raise it as well.

My thought:

- cut a thick piece of plywood to size (3' by 3'?) Wide enough for grip ...maybe even buy some sort of handles and screw them on the sides to allow for grip/leverage.

- set prop boards along existing base about equal to height of remaining base layers (some 2x4s screwed together?).

- in some manner, slide plywood under the downed section. Probably need to use crowbars and 2x4s to lift a side of the downed section in order to get plywood underneath by coming in from the side.

- if you can get the downed section on the plywood, then lift the base of the plywood (with downed section resting on it) onto the prop boards.

- chip off old mortar from good base, and apply new mortar.

- angle the top of the plywood so the downed section is raised up and drops back onto the good base.

But I don't think this will work. As the very heavy downed section drops back onto the good base (assuming you can get to that point and get it to 'drop' back in place perfectly), the weight will squeeze out the new mortar. And I don't think you can set it back in place by coming in from a side angle. At some point, you'd probably need some lift to come almost straight down.

 

[Das Boot]

Never mind, that's how you catch a unique rabbit.

I'm assuming you know how to catch a tame rabbit.

 

[jeaton6]

I think you're right it's glued on. Good idea on chiseling some pieces off to lighten the load. I honestly don't know if even 4 or 5 guys can lift this thing. Someone suggested creating some kind of wedge to help raise it as well.

My thought:

- cut a thick piece of plywood to size (3' by 3'?) Wide enough for grip ...maybe even buy some sort of handles and screw them on the sides to allow for grip/leverage.

- set prop boards along existing base about equal to height of remaining base layers (some 2x4s screwed together?).

- in some manner, slide plywood under the downed section. Probably need to use crowbars and 2x4s to lift a side of the downed section in order to get plywood underneath by coming in from the side.

- if you can get the downed section on the plywood, then lift the base of the plywood (with downed section resting on it) onto the prop boards.

- chip off old mortar from good base, and apply new mortar.

- angle the top of the plywood so the downed section is raised up and drops back onto the good base.

But I don't think this will work. As the very heavy downed section drops back onto the good base (assuming you can get to that point and get it to 'drop' back in place perfectly), the weight will squeeze out the new mortar. And I don't think you can set it back in place by coming in from a side angle. At some point, you'd probably need some lift to come almost straight down.

That's where I'm at. It's 39 blocks at about 40 lbs each so I'm dealing with 1,600 lbs here that would require very precise placement onto existing base. I've got a few people to come look at it to see if there's anyway to avoid rebuilding. Thanks.

 

[DCThunder]

Make sure you play this while fixing it:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rrBx6mAWYPU

 

[Ditkaless Wonders]

Block and tackle suspended from turgid member. You are, after all, a footballguy. Your man hydraulics should be able to do the job easily.

 

[NutterButter]

Is rebuilding that hard? Break that beast apart, stack and glue.

 

[belljr]

Is rebuilding that hard? Break that beast apart, stack and glue.

this ...sack up buttercup

 

[Notorious T.R.E.]

I can lift it.

 

[cstu]

I think you're right it's glued on. Good idea on chiseling some pieces off to lighten the load. I honestly don't know if even 4 or 5 guys can lift this thing. Someone suggested creating some kind of wedge to help raise it as well.

My thought:

- cut a thick piece of plywood to size (3' by 3'?) Wide enough for grip ...maybe even buy some sort of handles and screw them on the sides to allow for grip/leverage.

- set prop boards along existing base about equal to height of remaining base layers (some 2x4s screwed together?).

- in some manner, slide plywood under the downed section. Probably need to use crowbars and 2x4s to lift a side of the downed section in order to get plywood underneath by coming in from the side.

- if you can get the downed section on the plywood, then lift the base of the plywood (with downed section resting on it) onto the prop boards.

- chip off old mortar from good base, and apply new mortar.

- angle the top of the plywood so the downed section is raised up and drops back onto the good base.

But I don't think this will work. As the very heavy downed section drops back onto the good base (assuming you can get to that point and get it to 'drop' back in place perfectly), the weight will squeeze out the new mortar. And I don't think you can set it back in place by coming in from a side angle. At some point, you'd probably need some lift to come almost straight down.

That's where I'm at. It's 39 blocks at about 40 lbs each so I'm dealing with 1,600 lbs here that would require very precise placement onto existing base. I've got a few people to come look at it to see if there's anyway to avoid rebuilding. Thanks.

What kind of bricks are these?

 

[gianmarco]

Make sure you play this while fixing it:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rrBx6mAWYPU

I was thinking this instead

 

[Psychopav]

I think you're right it's glued on. Good idea on chiseling some pieces off to lighten the load. I honestly don't know if even 4 or 5 guys can lift this thing. Someone suggested creating some kind of wedge to help raise it as well.

My thought:

- cut a thick piece of plywood to size (3' by 3'?) Wide enough for grip ...maybe even buy some sort of handles and screw them on the sides to allow for grip/leverage.

- set prop boards along existing base about equal to height of remaining base layers (some 2x4s screwed together?).

- in some manner, slide plywood under the downed section. Probably need to use crowbars and 2x4s to lift a side of the downed section in order to get plywood underneath by coming in from the side.

- if you can get the downed section on the plywood, then lift the base of the plywood (with downed section resting on it) onto the prop boards.

- chip off old mortar from good base, and apply new mortar.

- angle the top of the plywood so the downed section is raised up and drops back onto the good base.

But I don't think this will work. As the very heavy downed section drops back onto the good base (assuming you can get to that point and get it to 'drop' back in place perfectly), the weight will squeeze out the new mortar. And I don't think you can set it back in place by coming in from a side angle. At some point, you'd probably need some lift to come almost straight down.

That's where I'm at. It's 39 blocks at about 40 lbs each so I'm dealing with 1,600 lbs here that would require very precise placement onto existing base. I've got a few people to come look at it to see if there's anyway to avoid rebuilding. Thanks.

What kind of bricks are these?

Ooh! I know this one!

They're heavy bricks.

 

[sports_fan]

I think you're right it's glued on. Good idea on chiseling some pieces off to lighten the load. I honestly don't know if even 4 or 5 guys can lift this thing. Someone suggested creating some kind of wedge to help raise it as well.

My thought:

- cut a thick piece of plywood to size (3' by 3'?) Wide enough for grip ...maybe even buy some sort of handles and screw them on the sides to allow for grip/leverage.

- set prop boards along existing base about equal to height of remaining base layers (some 2x4s screwed together?).

- in some manner, slide plywood under the downed section. Probably need to use crowbars and 2x4s to lift a side of the downed section in order to get plywood underneath by coming in from the side.

- if you can get the downed section on the plywood, then lift the base of the plywood (with downed section resting on it) onto the prop boards.

- chip off old mortar from good base, and apply new mortar.

- angle the top of the plywood so the downed section is raised up and drops back onto the good base.

But I don't think this will work. As the very heavy downed section drops back onto the good base (assuming you can get to that point and get it to 'drop' back in place perfectly), the weight will squeeze out the new mortar. And I don't think you can set it back in place by coming in from a side angle. At some point, you'd probably need some lift to come almost straight down.

That's where I'm at. It's 39 blocks at about 40 lbs each so I'm dealing with 1,600 lbs here that would require very precise placement onto existing base. I've got a few people to come look at it to see if there's anyway to avoid rebuilding. Thanks.

What kind of bricks are these?

Ooh! I know this one!

They're heavy bricks.

Getting heavier too. They were 20 pounds each in his first post.

 

[johnnycakes]

Is your wife Chinese by any chance?

 

[jeaton6]

I think you're right it's glued on. Good idea on chiseling some pieces off to lighten the load. I honestly don't know if even 4 or 5 guys can lift this thing. Someone suggested creating some kind of wedge to help raise it as well.

My thought:

- cut a thick piece of plywood to size (3' by 3'?) Wide enough for grip ...maybe even buy some sort of handles and screw them on the sides to allow for grip/leverage.

- set prop boards along existing base about equal to height of remaining base layers (some 2x4s screwed together?).

- in some manner, slide plywood under the downed section. Probably need to use crowbars and 2x4s to lift a side of the downed section in order to get plywood underneath by coming in from the side.

- if you can get the downed section on the plywood, then lift the base of the plywood (with downed section resting on it) onto the prop boards.

- chip off old mortar from good base, and apply new mortar.

- angle the top of the plywood so the downed section is raised up and drops back onto the good base.

But I don't think this will work. As the very heavy downed section drops back onto the good base (assuming you can get to that point and get it to 'drop' back in place perfectly), the weight will squeeze out the new mortar. And I don't think you can set it back in place by coming in from a side angle. At some point, you'd probably need some lift to come almost straight down.

That's where I'm at. It's 39 blocks at about 40 lbs each so I'm dealing with 1,600 lbs here that would require very precise placement onto existing base. I've got a few people to come look at it to see if there's anyway to avoid rebuilding. Thanks.

What kind of bricks are these?

Ooh! I know this one!They're heavy bricks.

Getting heavier too. They were 20 pounds each in his first post.

Yeah and there's fewer of them too. Weird huh?

 

[Rustoleum]

A three-quarter ton mailbox? Is that a bank vault in the middle?

 

[TheAristocrat]

Is your wife Chinese by any chance?

Racist. Any woman could have done that for a plethora of reasons that weren't her fault.

 

[Officer Pete Malloy]

Never mind, that's how you catch a unique rabbit.

I'm assuming you know how to catch a tame rabbit.

The tame way.

 

[jeaton6]

A three-quarter ton mailbox? Is that a bank vault in the middle?

Yep. Locked and everything. Blocks are 13 x 8.5 x 4.5. Snowing now so maybe it'll just get buried and I can forget about it til spring.

 

[jeaton6]

Is your wife Chinese by any chance?

Racist. Any woman could have done that for a plethora of reasons that weren't her fault.

This is her 6th "accident" in 18 months. When she told me I told her she needs to go to driving school.