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Cast Iron Skillet omnibus (1 Viewer)

Just trashed our last calphalon pan this weekend. We seem to purchase a couple every year or so and they just do not last. We had a bunch of cast iron pans but the wife wanted something more contemporary and had me put the cast irons away. I broke out the old cast iron this weekend, cleaned them all up and got ready to cook. Two of them had rust on them and this was easily removed by using a lemon, potato and salt. I simply squeezed the juice from half a lemon into the pan, put about 1/4 cup of coarse salt in the pan and then cut a potato in half and used that as the "brush". This method got rid of all of the rust and I was able to season them and get them right back into shape. Made some salmon last night for dinner and my wife was shocked at how much she liked using the pan.

 
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Just trashed our last calphalon pan this weekend. We seem to purchase a couple every year or so and they just do not last. We had a bunch of cast iron pans but the wife wanted something more contemporary and had me put the cast irons away. I broke out the old cast iron this weekend, cleaned them all up and got ready to cook. Two of them had rust on them and this was easily removed by using a lemon, potato and salt. I simply squeezed the juice from half a lemon into the pan, put about 1/4 cup of coarse salt in the pan and then cut a potato in half and used that as the "brush". This method got rid of all of the rust and I was able to season them and get them right back into shape. Made some salmon last night for dinner and my wife was shocked at how much she liked using the pan.
:thumbup: That's great to hear.
 
I hope to pick up a 12 inch CIS very soon. I've been wanting one for a while now. This thread has convinced me to get one. :thumbup:

 
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I just got my pre-seasoned 12 inch Lodge cast iron pan. I read on Cook's Illustrated (via an earlier post here) that the best way to season is with flaxseed oil. The article states to season with flaxseed on a new (unseasoned) pan or one that has been stripped of seasoning. Do you think it would harm the pan to season with flaxseed prior to use, or should I wait until I use it a few times? I assume the latter, but lots of cast iron vets in here, who I'd like to hear from. TIA

:popcorn:

 
I've had a love/hate relationship with my 12" Lodge since I first bought it, about 3 or 4 years ago now. Finally, after at least a dozen or two cycles of seasoning/scrubbing bare, I am convinced that I've got the cleanup down pat.

Here's what I do, from the start:

1.) Scrub the hell out of your skillet with steel wool. Strip any existing rust or gunk from all surfaces, including the handle and bottom of the pan.

2.) Give it a good, all-over rubdown using oil and a paper towel. (I use canola oil; other oils may also work, but I've never tried them so I can't comment on them.) You don't want to leave puddles of oil, but don't be cheap, either.

3.) Heat it upside down in the oven at 350 degrees for a good 30-45 minutes.

4.) Repeat steps 2 & 3 three more times, using less and less oil each time. This does not all need to be done at once; you can wait a day (or even a few days) between each cycle if you don't have time to kill.

5.) Cook with fatty, greasy foods - and nothing else - for at least the first half-dozen or so times you use the skillet. Bacon or sausage would be ideal.

6.) Dump out whatever leftover food scraps remain in the skillet when you're done. If you can't just slide it off with a plastic spatula (don't ever use a metal spatula), leave it. Note that you have not turned the burner off yet.

7.) Run your faucet hot. When the water is about as hot as it gets, dump some of the water into the skillet (just enough to cover the surface a couple of inches). Eat your food and let the water boil (or come close to boiling).

8.) Using your plastic spatula, gently scrape the surface of the skillet while the water is still boiling. This should loosen up anything that had been left behind. Dump the water out.

9.) Turn the burner off and set your skillet back down. Give it a quick (very quick - the surface is still hot!) once-over with a paper towel to make sure there are no crumbs left.

10.) Once the skillet is cool enough to touch, wipe it dry (but don't scrub!) with a paper towel.

11.) Give it a very light coat of oil, making sure to hit all surfaces.

12.) Store it upside down in your oven to prevent dust from building up.

This approach has been working exceptionally well for me. It is now the smoothest, easiest-to-use pan in the house. Love it! :thumbup:

Good luck to everyone else, and don't give up!

 
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I think I might've just added my new favorite piece of CI to the collection, the Lodge 20x10.5" Griddle.

That big open space really is nice. Great for the sausage and eggs of course. Fits a couple of steaks and asparagus with no problem.

I had some leftover smoked chicken and a bunch of tortillas that I needed to do something with, the Lodge griddle helps with that. My link

My link

And it also fits perfectly on a 22.5" Weber. That's come in handy, especially grilling vegetables.

Love this griddle. Especially since I don't have a 12" CI skillet (only a couple of 10's).

 
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Not an expert and having some of the same issues with the Lodge as everyone else. In my research a couple months ago I ran across an article, I can't remember where but it was very in depth. Anyhow, the guy basically claimed that a stainless steel spatula is essential in maintaining the 'smoothness' of the CIS, by somewhat scraping the high spots that get built up with gunk. Further research seemed to support this claim, here is the spatulathat the article recommended - the rounded edges, size, and angle of the edge are supposed to be ideal for the CIS. I haven't pulled the trigger and bought it yet but the Amazon reviews sound promising as many use it in conjunction with the CIS.
Update: I bought and have been using this spatula with my skillets since the summer, and I would recommend it. I am noticing the skillets are getting a smoother surface, and I would attribute a lot of it to using the SS spatula since I haven't done anything differently or given them a good seasoning (aside from rubbing them down with bacon grease and letting sit) in this time. It also makes serving and clean up a lot easier, the plastic spatulas just don't cut/pick up like the SS does.As others have said, no matter what you do I don't think the Lodges are ever going to get that smoothness of the old CIS where the surfaces were actually machined smooth.

ETA: Here is the article I mentioned that recommended using the stainless steel turner. Some other good tips as well IMO.

 
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I just got my pre-seasoned 12 inch Lodge cast iron pan. I read on Cook's Illustrated (via an earlier post here) that the best way to season is with flaxseed oil. The article states to season with flaxseed on a new (unseasoned) pan or one that has been stripped of seasoning. Do you think it would harm the pan to season with flaxseed prior to use, or should I wait until I use it a few times? I assume the latter, but lots of cast iron vets in here, who I'd like to hear from. TIA :popcorn:
I tried the flaxseed on mine too and didn't really like it, although it wasn't brand new at the time. Ended up leaving a weird yellowish film. I'm not a big fan of the Lodge preseasoning either, maybe it doesn't react well with that. If I had a new one now I would try to find a way to strip that preseasoning off completely and then try the flaxseed.
 
I'm sure many have seen it already, but this site has some great info and is an interesting reading.

A lot of good stuff for identifying and dating old cast iron.

I'm not a collector (trying to use the info to steer clear of the collector market really), but I was trying to ID an unnamed skillet. This site helped and turned out to be an interesting time-waster.

 
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I think I might've just added my new favorite piece of CI to the collection, the Lodge 20x10.5" Griddle.That big open space really is nice. Great for the sausage and eggs of course. Fits a couple of steaks and asparagus with no problem.I had some leftover smoked chicken and a bunch of tortillas that I needed to do something with, the Lodge griddle helps with that. My linkMy linkAnd it also fits perfectly on a 22.5" Weber. That's come in handy, especially grilling vegetables. Love this griddle. Especially since I don't have a 12" CI skillet (only a couple of 10's).
Good griddle for sure. Great for french toast, pancakes, or making a bunch of grilled cheese sandwiches. I have that piece and a 10" skillet, and was inspired today to round out the cast iron set with this 5 quart dutch oven, a 12" skillet, and an 8" skillet for the smaller stuff.$60 for all of it, & all 26 pounds of it sent for free! Gotta love Amazon.
 
I think I might've just added my new favorite piece of CI to the collection, the Lodge 20x10.5" Griddle.That big open space really is nice. Great for the sausage and eggs of course. Fits a couple of steaks and asparagus with no problem.I had some leftover smoked chicken and a bunch of tortillas that I needed to do something with, the Lodge griddle helps with that. My linkMy linkAnd it also fits perfectly on a 22.5" Weber. That's come in handy, especially grilling vegetables. Love this griddle. Especially since I don't have a 12" CI skillet (only a couple of 10's).
Good griddle for sure. Great for french toast, pancakes, or making a bunch of grilled cheese sandwiches. I have that piece and a 10" skillet, and was inspired today to round out the cast iron set with this 5 quart dutch oven, a 12" skillet, and an 8" skillet for the smaller stuff.$60 for all of it, & all 26 pounds of it sent for free! Gotta love Amazon.
Great deal.I do love the 5 qt. DO. It's been great for Brunswick stew lately. It's worth it for the bread alone. Perfect for deep frying too.I wish I had started with the 12" skillet. I started with the 10" as well and ended up with 2 more 10"s and an 8" (found cheap and restored) before I've gotten around to getting a 12". I can't justify getting one with all these other skillets, but I would prefer my main skillet to be a 12".The griddle does help ease the pain of not having a 12"er.
 
Went on an old cast iron hunt over the weekend and found some pretty exciting stuff.

As best as I can tell, the best value lies in the unnamed pieces that were clearly made by major US foundries before 1960. I'd assume it's rare to get a Griswold at any kind of deal, if the goal is clean them up and use them. Around here, Wagner's marked up too.

So, I had some good luck with some unmarked Lodge, Birmingham Stove and Range Co (BSR), and Wagner pieces. Every bit as good as the Griswolds, but I was able to get each piece for $12 or less. If I've misidentified them, they still do have that lightweight feel and smooth surface of the pre-1960 US stuff. The heat rings are also a good indicator of pre-1950's stuff, when they were made for wood fired stoves.

1930's Lodge #8: On the right, on the left is it's brother that I found a year or so ago and has since become an amazing skillet.

1930's or 40's BSR, Red Mountain Series. I'll strip them all and reseason, but it already has a great looking surface.

Another #8 BSR, same era and line

Found a great 10.5" round griddle. The writing on the back seems to indicate an unmarked Wagner.

With eBay not really being an option because of the shipping, $11-12 seems like a real good price for these pieces.

 
We are selling the old homestead... and I found one of my mother's old cast iron skillets, a 10 inch. The bottom is very encrusted, but I could make out the first two letters on the bottom... GR. I have to think it's a Griswold. Now, how do I restore it? One portion of the inside has some rust, like a small puddle of water had dried on it. The rest of the cooking surface is very smooth. The handle is smooth as well, but the outside walls and bottom are encrusted with a very rough black sort of surface. As I said, only "GR" can be read on the bottom. I got some rust on my hand after picking it up by the handle although it does not look rusty. Can anyone tell me how to go about saving this thing, if that is possible? I remember as a kid the wonderous things my mom cooked in this thing. Corned beef hash in particular was perfectly crispy and never stuck to the pan. She did panakes in it as well. Best pancakes I ever had, not even close. FWIW, I believe she had this skillet before I was born, almost 60 years ago now. I'd love to restore it both for nostalgic and practical reasons. Any help would be much appreciated.

 
We are selling the old homestead... and I found one of my mother's old cast iron skillets, a 10 inch. The bottom is very encrusted, but I could make out the first two letters on the bottom... GR. I have to think it's a Griswold. Now, how do I restore it? One portion of the inside has some rust, like a small puddle of water had dried on it. The rest of the cooking surface is very smooth. The handle is smooth as well, but the outside walls and bottom are encrusted with a very rough black sort of surface. As I said, only "GR" can be read on the bottom. I got some rust on my hand after picking it up by the handle although it does not look rusty. Can anyone tell me how to go about saving this thing, if that is possible? I remember as a kid the wonderous things my mom cooked in this thing. Corned beef hash in particular was perfectly crispy and never stuck to the pan. She did panakes in it as well. Best pancakes I ever had, not even close. FWIW, I believe she had this skillet before I was born, almost 60 years ago now. I'd love to restore it both for nostalgic and practical reasons. Any help would be much appreciated.
You should be able to get that thing cleaned up and running just as good as it was when your mother was using it.I'm just now getting into it, but it appears the 2 most surefired ways of getting the gunk/rust off without risking harm to the skillet are lye or electrolysis.Lye meaning a lye bath or a week soaking in lye-based oven cleaner (Easy Off Heavy Duty). Electrolysis would require a car batter charger.Both require a little set-up, but aren't expensive or complicated. Both, obviously, require some safety steps and common sense. A biggie: Always add lye onto water, never the reverse, or disaster will strike.For info on both (and there are many sources via a google search):http://www.castironcollector.com/cleaning.phphttp://www.blackirondude.blogspot.comwag-society.org is the best source, but it's a paid membershiphttp://www.ibelieveicanfry.com/2010/12/reconditioning-re-seasoning-cast-iron.html A good blog entry about the oven cleaner method, complete with a comment section debate about the safety of using a lye cleaner on your skilletFor one pan, the oven cleaner method sounds like it would be your best bet.Lye based stuff doesn't remove rust, but a vinegar solution soak afterwards will do that (and neutralize any remaining lye). Some will say putting it through the self-cleaning oven cycle is a good idea, but I'd be worried about that. You don't know if the oven will get hot enough. It might get too hot and warp the pan. Also, you need something to put it on (racks need to come out), and if you use a brick with any moisture at all, it could explode.I restored a really gunky pan using power tools. It worked out fine, but it's not a good idea. You can very easily take small chunks out of the pan. I did. Doesn't affect the performance, but still, you don't want to harm the pan if you don't have to.Hope that helps. You are quite lucky. My mother and grandmother both threw out all their old cast iron in favor of the non-stick crap decades ago.
 
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Not an expert and having some of the same issues with the Lodge as everyone else. In my research a couple months ago I ran across an article, I can't remember where but it was very in depth. Anyhow, the guy basically claimed that a stainless steel spatula is essential in maintaining the 'smoothness' of the CIS, by somewhat scraping the high spots that get built up with gunk. Further research seemed to support this claim, here is the spatulathat the article recommended - the rounded edges, size, and angle of the edge are supposed to be ideal for the CIS. I haven't pulled the trigger and bought it yet but the Amazon reviews sound promising as many use it in conjunction with the CIS.
Update: I bought and have been using this spatula with my skillets since the summer, and I would recommend it. I am noticing the skillets are getting a smoother surface, and I would attribute a lot of it to using the SS spatula since I haven't done anything differently or given them a good seasoning (aside from rubbing them down with bacon grease and letting sit) in this time. It also makes serving and clean up a lot easier, the plastic spatulas just don't cut/pick up like the SS does.As others have said, no matter what you do I don't think the Lodges are ever going to get that smoothness of the old CIS where the surfaces were actually machined smooth.ETA: Here is the article I mentioned that recommended using the stainless steel turner. Some other good tips as well IMO.
I've been using this spatula since Nov and it has made a world of difference with my 12in Lodge CIS. It is so much smoother now and the seasoning gets better with each use.
 
Not an expert and having some of the same issues with the Lodge as everyone else. In my research a couple months ago I ran across an article, I can't remember where but it was very in depth. Anyhow, the guy basically claimed that a stainless steel spatula is essential in maintaining the 'smoothness' of the CIS, by somewhat scraping the high spots that get built up with gunk. Further research seemed to support this claim, here is the spatulathat the article recommended - the rounded edges, size, and angle of the edge are supposed to be ideal for the CIS. I haven't pulled the trigger and bought it yet but the Amazon reviews sound promising as many use it in conjunction with the CIS.
Update: I bought and have been using this spatula with my skillets since the summer, and I would recommend it. I am noticing the skillets are getting a smoother surface, and I would attribute a lot of it to using the SS spatula since I haven't done anything differently or given them a good seasoning (aside from rubbing them down with bacon grease and letting sit) in this time. It also makes serving and clean up a lot easier, the plastic spatulas just don't cut/pick up like the SS does.As others have said, no matter what you do I don't think the Lodges are ever going to get that smoothness of the old CIS where the surfaces were actually machined smooth.ETA: Here is the article I mentioned that recommended using the stainless steel turner. Some other good tips as well IMO.
I've been using this spatula since Nov and it has made a world of difference with my 12in Lodge CIS. It is so much smoother now and the seasoning gets better with each use.
My old man has been using metal in his cast iron pans forever and they are as smooth as glass. He actually travels with them on vacation and refuses to cook on anything else.
 
Not an expert and having some of the same issues with the Lodge as everyone else. In my research a couple months ago I ran across an article, I can't remember where but it was very in depth. Anyhow, the guy basically claimed that a stainless steel spatula is essential in maintaining the 'smoothness' of the CIS, by somewhat scraping the high spots that get built up with gunk. Further research seemed to support this claim, here is the spatulathat the article recommended - the rounded edges, size, and angle of the edge are supposed to be ideal for the CIS. I haven't pulled the trigger and bought it yet but the Amazon reviews sound promising as many use it in conjunction with the CIS.
Update: I bought and have been using this spatula with my skillets since the summer, and I would recommend it. I am noticing the skillets are getting a smoother surface, and I would attribute a lot of it to using the SS spatula since I haven't done anything differently or given them a good seasoning (aside from rubbing them down with bacon grease and letting sit) in this time. It also makes serving and clean up a lot easier, the plastic spatulas just don't cut/pick up like the SS does.As others have said, no matter what you do I don't think the Lodges are ever going to get that smoothness of the old CIS where the surfaces were actually machined smooth.ETA: Here is the article I mentioned that recommended using the stainless steel turner. Some other good tips as well IMO.
Using a stainless steel spatula on an iron skillet is not a good idea.
 
Not an expert and having some of the same issues with the Lodge as everyone else. In my research a couple months ago I ran across an article, I can't remember where but it was very in depth. Anyhow, the guy basically claimed that a stainless steel spatula is essential in maintaining the 'smoothness' of the CIS, by somewhat scraping the high spots that get built up with gunk. Further research seemed to support this claim, here is the spatulathat the article recommended - the rounded edges, size, and angle of the edge are supposed to be ideal for the CIS. I haven't pulled the trigger and bought it yet but the Amazon reviews sound promising as many use it in conjunction with the CIS.
Update: I bought and have been using this spatula with my skillets since the summer, and I would recommend it. I am noticing the skillets are getting a smoother surface, and I would attribute a lot of it to using the SS spatula since I haven't done anything differently or given them a good seasoning (aside from rubbing them down with bacon grease and letting sit) in this time. It also makes serving and clean up a lot easier, the plastic spatulas just don't cut/pick up like the SS does.As others have said, no matter what you do I don't think the Lodges are ever going to get that smoothness of the old CIS where the surfaces were actually machined smooth.ETA: Here is the article I mentioned that recommended using the stainless steel turner. Some other good tips as well IMO.
Using a stainless steel spatula on an iron skillet is not a good idea.
We have 60+ year old skillets that say otherwise.
 
Not an expert and having some of the same issues with the Lodge as everyone else. In my research a couple months ago I ran across an article, I can't remember where but it was very in depth. Anyhow, the guy basically claimed that a stainless steel spatula is essential in maintaining the 'smoothness' of the CIS, by somewhat scraping the high spots that get built up with gunk. Further research seemed to support this claim, here is the spatulathat the article recommended - the rounded edges, size, and angle of the edge are supposed to be ideal for the CIS. I haven't pulled the trigger and bought it yet but the Amazon reviews sound promising as many use it in conjunction with the CIS.
Update: I bought and have been using this spatula with my skillets since the summer, and I would recommend it. I am noticing the skillets are getting a smoother surface, and I would attribute a lot of it to using the SS spatula since I haven't done anything differently or given them a good seasoning (aside from rubbing them down with bacon grease and letting sit) in this time. It also makes serving and clean up a lot easier, the plastic spatulas just don't cut/pick up like the SS does.As others have said, no matter what you do I don't think the Lodges are ever going to get that smoothness of the old CIS where the surfaces were actually machined smooth.ETA: Here is the article I mentioned that recommended using the stainless steel turner. Some other good tips as well IMO.
Using a stainless steel spatula on an iron skillet is not a good idea.
How so? The plastic-type spatulas are pretty useless when trying to cut and pick up frittatas, corn bread, etc from the skillet, and the skillets have gotten smoother and smoother. Take a look at the article I linked, about 3/4 down, 'the right kind of spatula'.
 
I prefer metal spatulas too. Flat edge with rounded corners.

I don't have a real nice thin, flexible one yet, but these from Sam's work okay.

I just feel more comfortable using metal utensils. That's one of the reasons I do all my cooking with cast iron or stainless steel (almost all with cast iron).

 
I've been doing a lot of Baked Chicken in my CIS lately. Very simple meal, fast and makes enough for 3 or 4 meals/people.I lightly cover the skillet with Olive oil and place sweet onion, baby carrots, celery, red and green peppers and snow peas in the skillet and season with either a SW rub or a Trinidad rub. Do the same rub on a whole fyer and place the bird in the middle of the skillet on the veggies. Cook at 300 for about 2 to 2.5 hours. You want to make sure the snow peas are covered or they will burn.You can also use yukon gold potatoes cubed if you choose.Like I said, it's fast, less than 30 minutes prep and its a somewhat healthy, tasty meal.

 
I've had a love/hate relationship with my 12" Lodge since I first bought it, about 3 or 4 years ago now. Finally, after at least a dozen or two cycles of seasoning/scrubbing bare, I am convinced that I've got the cleanup down pat.

Here's what I do, from the start:

1.) Scrub the hell out of your skillet with steel wool. Strip any existing rust or gunk from all surfaces, including the handle and bottom of the pan.
Does "existing gunk" mean all of previous baked on oil? Or just as smooth as you can get it. I spent over half an hour straight scrubbing mine and I only had a few patches that were completely bare. It felt totally smooth to the touch, but only a few spots gleamed with the underlying iron peeking through. And if so, what type of steel wool (if any) is suggested or what types of "tricks" are there to get down to the original iron? I could barely raise my arm the next day it was so sore from scrubbing. Thanks
 
I've had a love/hate relationship with my 12" Lodge since I first bought it, about 3 or 4 years ago now. Finally, after at least a dozen or two cycles of seasoning/scrubbing bare, I am convinced that I've got the cleanup down pat.

Here's what I do, from the start:

1.) Scrub the hell out of your skillet with steel wool. Strip any existing rust or gunk from all surfaces, including the handle and bottom of the pan.
Does "existing gunk" mean all of previous baked on oil? Or just as smooth as you can get it. I spent over half an hour straight scrubbing mine and I only had a few patches that were completely bare. It felt totally smooth to the touch, but only a few spots gleamed with the underlying iron peeking through. And if so, what type of steel wool (if any) is suggested or what types of "tricks" are there to get down to the original iron? I could barely raise my arm the next day it was so sore from scrubbing. Thanks
I think it's next to impossible to get down to bare iron with hand power and steel wool/steel scrubbers alone.Maybe you can get some of it, but I don't think it'll get every bit of gunk and old seasoning off a used skillet.

I outlined some methods above, but I think the only ways to do it are extreme heat (self-cleaning oven cycle or blazing fire), chemicals (lye), power tools, or electrolysis.

For just one pan, I'd recommend a lye-based oven cleaner (Easy Off Heavy Duty). None of the fume free crap.

Wear gloves and goggles. Spray the skillet down completely. Tie up in a garbage bag. Put bag in another container in case of leaks. Leave it for a week, reapplying the oven cleaner every few days.

When every bit is loosened, rinse like crazy with water (scrub if it needs any), then soak in a 50/50 vinegar/water solution for about an hour. Rinse, dry, re-season.

The vinegar will loosen any remaining rust, but even if there's no rust, I do it anyway because it neutralizes any lye that might possibly remain after the previous rinsing.

Be sure to get it out after an hour. Vinegar is rough on iron.

Rinse and lightly scrub after vinegar bath. Towel dry and get it in the oven immediately. No matter how fast you do this, if there is any humidity at all, you'll see some flash, surface rust on the skillet. Don't worry, the initial seasoning will take care of that.

Dry at a lower temp (250-300) for a bit, then crank it up (450-500) to prepare for seasoning.

 
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I have a couple of old cast irons I got at a garage sale. They have some rust on them but I haven't tried to clean them up. After this thread, maybe I will.
don't get them wet - use some steel wool with nothing first, and then, if necessary, use a special tough stain soap withOUT any water and with the steel wool - that should remove the VAST BULK of the rust and any nasty coating.Then rinse, wipe out, scrub again if necessary - and RE-SEASON THAT BAD BOY - maybe a few times actually to get rid of that other person's nasty mistreatment of these beautiful pieces of cookware - and you should be good to go.
I have a 12in CIS that got a wee rusty a while ago (probably due do poor cleaning methods by it's owner) and I gave up on it. I have been wanting to renew it and after reading this thread, it doesn't seem impossible.

Here is a shot of it. It's not too bad, I don't think I need to bring out the electrolysis baths or anything. Do you think I can just get some steel wool pads and scrub the heck out of it with some elbow grease, then doing the vinegar bath? I have some of the oven cleaner with the lye, but the methods I have been reading say that you need to store it somewhere warm and ventilated for a week or so. I'm in DC I have a bunch of snow on the ground, and while it will be warmer this week, it still is kinda cold. Is a 40 degree garage OK?

I know I'm going back a bit, but what is the "special tough stain soap" that he is referring to?

Thanks!

 
Ected, I think a good scrubbing with a steel wool pad will take care of that. Looks like some pretty light rust and it's only in a small area.

That shouldn't need any lye or oven cleaner. That doesn't do anything for rust, just built up grease and gunk. Doesn't seem to be any on that skillet. Some spots are even already down to the bare iron.

If the scrubbing doesn't work by itself, then you could use some vinegar. Doubt you'd need it though.

 
Redid a couple of mine this past week. Set oven to cleaning cycle and put the pans in with it. Cooked off ll the seasoning and they came out looking pure.

These were newish pans, so they were kind of rough on the bottom so I took a grinder and random orbit sander to both of them to create a much smoother surface. Seasoned them with flaxseed oil which apparently has the highest smoke point of any edible oil. Seasoned the pans at 450 degrees. I think I did 7 or 8 coats.

Pans are gorgeous now. :thumbup:

 
Redid a couple of mine this past week. Set oven to cleaning cycle and put the pans in with it. Cooked off ll the seasoning and they came out looking pure.

These were newish pans, so they were kind of rough on the bottom so I took a grinder and random orbit sander to both of them to create a much smoother surface. Seasoned them with flaxseed oil which apparently has the highest smoke point of any edible oil. Seasoned the pans at 450 degrees. I think I did 7 or 8 coats.

Pans are gorgeous now. :thumbup:
Nice. You got any pics of those bad boys?

 
Ected, I think a good scrubbing with a steel wool pad will take care of that. Looks like some pretty light rust and it's only in a small area.

That shouldn't need any lye or oven cleaner. That doesn't do anything for rust, just built up grease and gunk. Doesn't seem to be any on that skillet. Some spots are even already down to the bare iron.

If the scrubbing doesn't work by itself, then you could use some vinegar. Doubt you'd need it though.
Thanks, that's what I thought. What 'level' pad should I get? Should I get a bunch of the superfine? Or should I look for a more coarse pad? or both?

TIA,

 
Redid a couple of mine this past week. Set oven to cleaning cycle and put the pans in with it. Cooked off ll the seasoning and they came out looking pure.

These were newish pans, so they were kind of rough on the bottom so I took a grinder and random orbit sander to both of them to create a much smoother surface. Seasoned them with flaxseed oil which apparently has the highest smoke point of any edible oil. Seasoned the pans at 450 degrees. I think I did 7 or 8 coats.

Pans are gorgeous now. :thumbup:
Nice. You got any pics of those bad boys?
I can take some tomorrow.

The cleaning cycle on the oven is the way to go for sure. It bakes off every last bit of grime and gives you a fresh, new looking, totally unseasoned pan.

 
Redid a couple of mine this past week. Set oven to cleaning cycle and put the pans in with it. Cooked off ll the seasoning and they came out looking pure.

These were newish pans, so they were kind of rough on the bottom so I took a grinder and random orbit sander to both of them to create a much smoother surface. Seasoned them with flaxseed oil which apparently has the highest smoke point of any edible oil. Seasoned the pans at 450 degrees. I think I did 7 or 8 coats.

Pans are gorgeous now. :thumbup:
Nice. You got any pics of those bad boys?
I can take some tomorrow.

The cleaning cycle on the oven is the way to go for sure. It bakes off every last bit of grime and gives you a fresh, new looking, totally unseasoned pan.
Just another reason why I hate my range (not self-cleaning). Waiting for it to die so I can get a new one. At least it is gas! ;)

 
Ected, I think a good scrubbing with a steel wool pad will take care of that. Looks like some pretty light rust and it's only in a small area.

That shouldn't need any lye or oven cleaner. That doesn't do anything for rust, just built up grease and gunk. Doesn't seem to be any on that skillet. Some spots are even already down to the bare iron.

If the scrubbing doesn't work by itself, then you could use some vinegar. Doubt you'd need it though.
Thanks, that's what I thought. What 'level' pad should I get? Should I get a bunch of the superfine? Or should I look for a more coarse pad? or both?

TIA,
I bet you could get away with most any steel wool. Even a Brillo pad.

 
TLDR. Been using nothing but cast iron for years. This is what I do:

Season: Bake hot in 450F oven for an hour to get rid of any factory season. Season with Crisco one cycle through the oven then again after the pan has cooled down about half way.

Care: Most things wipe out with paper a towel. If it needs further cleaning a hot water scrub does the trick 99% of the time followed by high heat on stove to dry and re-season with Crisco or olive oil. On the rare occasion of gunk (usually someone has burned something which also ruined the seasoning) a 90 second soak with hot water and bar keepers friend. High heat on stove to dry with Crisco re-season.

 
Care: Most things wipe out with paper a towel. If it needs further cleaning a hot water scrub does the trick 99% of the time followed by high heat on stove to dry and re-season with Crisco or olive oil. On the rare occasion of gunk (usually someone has burned something which also ruined the seasoning) a 90 second soak with hot water and bar keepers friend. High heat on stove to dry with Crisco re-season.
This. Sounds like some of you are making this overly complicated for some reason.

I seasoned mine with olive oil applied with paper towel, then baked at 350ish for 20 mins.. cool...reapply...etc. 3x. Done.

Each time I use it:

• moisten with spray or pat of butter/smart balance (sometimes cook dry, depending on food).

• Cook with it.

• When finished, wipe out residue with paper towel. Warm wet rag if needed (rarely if ever). (takes maybe 15-20 seconds)

• 1/2 tsp of olive oil in center of pan, spread with paper towel. Back on burner and turn burner off and let pan/burner cool together.

My CIS is slicker than greased bat#### and is my fave pan by far.

 
Ected, I think a good scrubbing with a steel wool pad will take care of that. Looks like some pretty light rust and it's only in a small area.

That shouldn't need any lye or oven cleaner. That doesn't do anything for rust, just built up grease and gunk. Doesn't seem to be any on that skillet. Some spots are even already down to the bare iron.

If the scrubbing doesn't work by itself, then you could use some vinegar. Doubt you'd need it though.
Thanks, that's what I thought. What 'level' pad should I get? Should I get a bunch of the superfine? Or should I look for a more coarse pad? or both?

TIA,
I bet you could get away with most any steel wool. Even a Brillo pad.
The only Brillo Pads I have have soap in them. I understand I don't want to use soap when it is seasoned, but for the rust-removal, would they be OK? If not I need to get some without soap!

TIA,

 
Ected, I think a good scrubbing with a steel wool pad will take care of that. Looks like some pretty light rust and it's only in a small area.

That shouldn't need any lye or oven cleaner. That doesn't do anything for rust, just built up grease and gunk. Doesn't seem to be any on that skillet. Some spots are even already down to the bare iron.

If the scrubbing doesn't work by itself, then you could use some vinegar. Doubt you'd need it though.
Thanks, that's what I thought. What 'level' pad should I get? Should I get a bunch of the superfine? Or should I look for a more coarse pad? or both?

TIA,
I bet you could get away with most any steel wool. Even a Brillo pad.
The only Brillo Pads I have have soap in them. I understand I don't want to use soap when it is seasoned, but for the rust-removal, would they be OK? If not I need to get some without soap!

TIA,
It's fine.

For your pan, those grey areas are bare iron, so you are sort of starting from scratch with the seasoning anyway.

For the most part, I think the notion of not using soap on cast iron is really overblown, and not really a problem. Soap might take off some seasoning, but if the pan is in constant use, taking off a layer of seasoning now and again isn't really a problem (since more seasoning layers are constantly being added).

 
pollardsvision said:
Mr. Ected said:
pollardsvision said:
Mr. Ected said:
pollardsvision said:
Ected, I think a good scrubbing with a steel wool pad will take care of that. Looks like some pretty light rust and it's only in a small area.

That shouldn't need any lye or oven cleaner. That doesn't do anything for rust, just built up grease and gunk. Doesn't seem to be any on that skillet. Some spots are even already down to the bare iron.

If the scrubbing doesn't work by itself, then you could use some vinegar. Doubt you'd need it though.
Thanks, that's what I thought. What 'level' pad should I get? Should I get a bunch of the superfine? Or should I look for a more coarse pad? or both?

TIA,
I bet you could get away with most any steel wool. Even a Brillo pad.
The only Brillo Pads I have have soap in them. I understand I don't want to use soap when it is seasoned, but for the rust-removal, would they be OK? If not I need to get some without soap!

TIA,
It's fine.

For your pan, those grey areas are bare iron, so you are sort of starting from scratch with the seasoning anyway.

For the most part, I think the notion of not using soap on cast iron is really overblown, and not really a problem. Soap might take off some seasoning, but if the pan is in constant use, taking off a layer of seasoning now and again isn't really a problem (since more seasoning layers are constantly being added).
Thanks! Saved me some $$$ and time!

 
I know I read through this whole thread a couple of years ago but I don't have it in me to do so tonight. I've busted out my skillet lately and we've been doing the Alton Brown steaks (omg :wub: ). It makes me want to expand and do more in the skillet - I've done fajitas a couple of times and they're amazing,

Problem is, I think I need to strip mine down and start over in the seasoning. First off the bottom was never seasoned - that may or may not be a big deal. The bigger issue is the large circle in the middle of the skillet that doesn't seem to hold seasoning. When I do the steaks, for example, I have to put the skillet on the range in high for 5 minutes - the smoke starts right then and there and tonight I even started to see a couple of sparks.

I've been trying to "patch" this circle (oil and baking the spot) over the last two weeks but tonight was the last straw.

SO, has anyone in here ever actually stripped one down and started over? The Internet tells me the gist if how to do it, but I'm curious about tips/pointers.

 
Is this a newer Lodge skillet? I've had the same happen on a Lodge griddle where it gets so hot just over the burner that it won't hold seasoning. The Lodge preseasoning layer is generally fine, but the only times I've ever had problems with a seasoning layer, it's been the Lodge stuff.

There are a couple of methods for stripping a skillet.

The pretty much involve either heat or lye.

I've never done heat, personally, but some have had success just tossing the skillet in a self-cleaning oven cyle.

For lye, there are 2 methods that I've done.

Oven cleaner spray does work and might be your best bet for just one skillet. It's got to be "heavy duty" oven cleaner and not "fume free". Has to have lye. Look up the chemical name (might be sodium chloride, but I can't remember) and be sure it's got it.

Spray the pan with a heavy layer, and wrap it in a garbage bag tightly. It'll take about a week or so, and you may need to apply another coat after a couple of days.

Afterwards, you'll need to scrub the pan a little with steel wool, but the seasoning will mostly just wipe right off (with a couple of spots that might take some scrubbing).

The other method (that I've used more often) is to make a lye bath. You need a pound of lye (found in hardware stores, usually used for plumbing purposes). Fill a tub or plastic container with about 5 gallons of water and sprinkle a pound of lye onto it. Never do it the other way (pour water onto lye crystals). It'll cause a dangerous reaction. Put the pan in for a week or so and the seasoning will wipe right off.

CAUTION: If using lye, be careful. If you get it in your eyes or on your skin, it's very bad news. Wear gloves and goggles and keep away from children.

I typically use a vinegar bath after the lye, as most of the pans I clean have rust too (lye doesn't help with rust). You might also want to use it just to neutralize the lye. Mix a 50/50 vinegar/water solution and soak the pan for an hour (not longer as it could screw vinegar is harsh on metal).

Afterwards, give it a little scrub, toss in a hot oven to dry and re-season.

If you've got a battery charger and feel like a little project, you could use electrolysis. But that's probably overkill for just one skillet.

 
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Thanks for the in-depth response! That sounds a lot more involved than I knew it would be, but if you say it works, I'm down with looking into lye availability.

 
YSR said:
Thanks for the in-depth response! That sounds a lot more involved than I knew it would be, but if you say it works, I'm down with looking into lye availability.
For one skillet, the oven cleaner spray would do you well, and isn't much hassle at all.

 

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