31 hours in; almost all in the Antiquity age (first of three ages) - here's a few thoughts.
The mix-matching of leaders and civs is a pretty neat idea and I think it will lead to a lot re-playability.
Playing on high graphics setting, the game looks nice. I've had no crashes and I haven't noticed any performance problems. This is on a Zen 5 5600, 32 GB RAM, 7800 XT with a browser on the second monitor usually streaming college basketball while playing.
The AI might be slightly better at combat than in Civ6. I've had times where the AI seemed to know that it wasn't going to win and tried to get out of the situation. Other times I've seen the AI pump out lots combat units and stonewall my attacks, so I'm assuming they had the gold for it. Btw, gold feels really meaningful in the game.
I don't think I've seen enough of religion, culture, or diplomacy with other civs to have an opinion. The narrative aspects are ok, but I suspect they'll get old really fast.
I absolutely love the implementation on the city-states. Some will be hostile towards you and attack on sight while others are friendly. It feels like a nice change from the barbarian camps in Civ6 in that you can just wipe out a city-state that is pissing you off if you like. I also like that with enough influence you can convert a city-state to an actual town in your civilization.
I don't miss workers at all and prefer the way Civ7 implements getting resources.
Since most of my play time has been in Antiquity, I don't have much of an opinion on the ageless vs age specific buildings yet.
The UI is a special kind of hell in some situations. Dispersing a City-State is not intuitive. Starting up a trader, same thing. And the worst offender is assigning resources to a city/town.
The maps aren't very complex, which is disappointing, but maybe my opinion will change on that after getting through more ages.