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Home-owners...What are your current projects? (3 Viewers)

Redoing office. Painted it again and having tile installed. Finally getting an L-shaped desk with wrap around cabinets and some new solid shelves for the closet. Custom master closet is the next project, but I need to re-sod the entire yard ASAP.
If you're not dead-set on wood custom closets like California Closets, etc, the Rubbermaid/Closetmaid metal shelving has come a long way. I did our walk-in with it shortly after we moved. It's a fraction of the cost of the wood stuff, and IMO fits a lot more stuff. You can even get drawers and shoe racks, etc. Very flexible, and if you have a basic bolt cutter ($20), you can cut it yourself as you go.
Thanks for the tip. I do want a California Closet type wood closet setup for my master walk in, but not for the office at all. Two solid surface shelves is all I need for a small closet.

 
Dang, I came here to look for suggestions on finishing a wood floor and this is the first thread on page one...this place blows my mind sometimes!

Here's my scenario...

Bought a rambler a couple of months ago, tore out a wall next to a staircase that's going from the main floor to a finished basement and am in the process of putting engineered hardwood in the existing space + the old bedroom which wraps around the staircase. We are also updating the railings surrounding the staircase going from fat wood balusters to iron ones (So 3 sides of railing, the longest two are perpendicular to the flooring).

My main concern right now is, how do I end the wood flooring around the perpendicular railings? Should I run the wood floor right up to the side of the stair opening and butt it up to a trim piece? Should I get some kind of nosing? Should the balusters go into a plank that's picture-framing the stairs and have the flooring butt up against that?

We've got our first child coming in June, so I'm trying to knock this out so we can start on the nursery.

definitely bookmarking this for future ideas! That bunk bed in the OP looks awesome...looking forward to hearing how it goes.

 
Redoing office. Painted it again and having tile installed. Finally getting an L-shaped desk with wrap around cabinets and some new solid shelves for the closet. Custom master closet is the next project, but I need to re-sod the entire yard ASAP.
If you're not dead-set on wood custom closets like California Closets, etc, the Rubbermaid/Closetmaid metal shelving has come a long way. I did our walk-in with it shortly after we moved. It's a fraction of the cost of the wood stuff, and IMO fits a lot more stuff. You can even get drawers and shoe racks, etc. Very flexible, and if you have a basic bolt cutter ($20), you can cut it yourself as you go.
Thanks for the tip. I do want a California Closet type wood closet setup for my master walk in, but not for the office at all. Two solid surface shelves is all I need for a small closet.
No prob. I did every bedroom closet in the house with them shortly after we moved in. Very flexible system. Cali Closets look awesome. I just couldn't justify the price for a closet. We have an obscene amount of clothes and shoes (read "we don't throw stuff away enough"), so I honestly don't think we could ever have a "pretty" closet anyway.

 
Dang, I came here to look for suggestions on finishing a wood floor and this is the first thread on page one...this place blows my mind sometimes!

Here's my scenario...

Bought a rambler a couple of months ago, tore out a wall next to a staircase that's going from the main floor to a finished basement and am in the process of putting engineered hardwood in the existing space + the old bedroom which wraps around the staircase. We are also updating the railings surrounding the staircase going from fat wood balusters to iron ones (So 3 sides of railing, the longest two are perpendicular to the flooring).

My main concern right now is, how do I end the wood flooring around the perpendicular railings? Should I run the wood floor right up to the side of the stair opening and butt it up to a trim piece? Should I get some kind of nosing? Should the balusters go into a plank that's picture-framing the stairs and have the flooring butt up against that?

We've got our first child coming in June, so I'm trying to knock this out so we can start on the nursery.

definitely bookmarking this for future ideas! That bunk bed in the OP looks awesome...looking forward to hearing how it goes.
Based on your description, I think I ran into a similar situation. What's on the stairs? I was replacing the carpet on my stairs and was able to wrap it up into a type of transition. If I couldn't have done that, finding a nose that matched would have been my next choice (although that would have been tough to find an exact match. I did engineered hardwood too). Trim would have been my 3rd choice.
 
repainted kitchen last weekend. went and bought some backsplash yesterday to put up sometime this week. never done it before so a little nervous about some of the cuts I'm going to have to make. I got some tile snips and no tile saw.

after that, I'm going to attempt to paint our oak cabinets with a white chalk paint.

 
I learned everything off youtube and did it all myself. Pick a project, nothing is that difficult.
Yup. I never had any handymen in my family, so I had to become one myself. I've been pretty proud of some of the stuff I've accomplished just from watching instructional videos.

One big caveat: just like when you're watching a cooking instruction, be very aware of anything they gloss over, because that's bound to be the crucial step that trips you up later.

 
just remembered that the wife wants the foyer painted too. its a large 2 story foyer and it goes up to a loft on the second floor. all of it needs to be painted, foyer, loft and hallway to kids bedrooms. I subbed it out last time but thinking about just doing it myself this time. or maybe not....

 
repainted kitchen last weekend. went and bought some backsplash yesterday to put up sometime this week. never done it before so a little nervous about some of the cuts I'm going to have to make. I got some tile snips and no tile saw.

after that, I'm going to attempt to paint our oak cabinets with a white chalk paint.
Invest in a wet saw. Backsplash should be straight forward. Awkward cuts around receptacles will be hidden by wall plates. Don't have to be perfect.

 
Dang, I came here to look for suggestions on finishing a wood floor and this is the first thread on page one...this place blows my mind sometimes!

Here's my scenario...

Bought a rambler a couple of months ago, tore out a wall next to a staircase that's going from the main floor to a finished basement and am in the process of putting engineered hardwood in the existing space + the old bedroom which wraps around the staircase. We are also updating the railings surrounding the staircase going from fat wood balusters to iron ones (So 3 sides of railing, the longest two are perpendicular to the flooring).

My main concern right now is, how do I end the wood flooring around the perpendicular railings? Should I run the wood floor right up to the side of the stair opening and butt it up to a trim piece? Should I get some kind of nosing? Should the balusters go into a plank that's picture-framing the stairs and have the flooring butt up against that?

We've got our first child coming in June, so I'm trying to knock this out so we can start on the nursery.

definitely bookmarking this for future ideas! That bunk bed in the OP looks awesome...looking forward to hearing how it goes.
Based on your description, I think I ran into a similar situation. What's on the stairs? I was replacing the carpet on my stairs and was able to wrap it up into a type of transition. If I couldn't have done that, finding a nose that matched would have been my next choice (although that would have been tough to find an exact match. I did engineered hardwood too). Trim would have been my 3rd choice.
Undecided what we're going to do with the stairs themselves right now...currently it's carpet that isn't in need of replacing, but I think I'll have enough left over flooring to do them if I want to (and if I want to spend the $$ on the stairnose) .

here's the space I'm working on....

http://tinypic.com/usermedia.php?uo=nvlS1L5AwLNM4VsE%2FirHe4h4l5k2TGxc#.VONWZfnF8SU

So my quandary is, how to end the end the flooring that will run into the stairwell from the sides. I got the flooring from build direct and they have matching transition, baby threshold, and stair nose pieces available.

Currently the space is framed by oak, and I'm leaning towards doing the same thing now and butting the flooring up to it...but I just can't commit to that idea because it's added costs and added time it will take to prep the pieces.

 
Took down four mirrored closet doors over the long weekend in order to paint over the gaudy gold trimmings. Much cheaper than buying new doors, but it's a lot of work simply to get rid of a couple inches of eyesore that doesn't really provide any function. Ugh....

 
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proninja said:
This last year I finished my garage - added two bedrooms and a mud room/storage area. I sort of miss not having a garage, but I did a poor job with it and usually just threw a bunch of stuff I didn't need in there, so this is a better use of space. Plus, first kid is six weeks old, I needed a nursery, and now I've got a guest bedroom. We live in the downstairs of our house and rent out the 3 bedrooms upstairs, our living area went from 1 bed/900 sqft to 3 bed/1400 sqft. And I added a separate door, which will be handy when I build a wall between the downstairs and upstairs. All in all, much more productive space now, and with 4 big storage shelves from Costco in there, I've got as much storage as I've ever had.

I've done a lot of work over the last few years, mostly to turn the downstairs into a mother in law. Added a kitchen (thank goodness the home was originally plumbed for a wet bar down here), took the utility sink out of the laundry room and added a dishwasher in there. I don't have a range yet, but I do have gas on the wall I'm going to install it on (and another 5 or 6 feet to the outdoor wall on my porch that will hopefully one day have a natural gas range.) Maybe this year. The wife also wants a bathtub down here, so I'll probably have to do a bathroom remodel next. Then the range. Then I'll put a washer/dryer in the breakfast nook upstairs. After that, both the upstairs and downstairs will have everything they need, and I'll be able to build a wall between the two.

Lots of projects, but they're all designed around making my wife happy to live in the house and keeping the guys renting upstairs.

edit: Oh, I also took a 200sqft storage shed out back and added a window, flooring, electricity, heat, lights, totally finished the inside, and my wife uses it to teach violin lessons a few years ago.
With your numbers background, I'm guessing you have this rigged to where your house will be paid off in a very short time and mostly by other folks. Care to share details? Being mortgage free in a few years by simply downsizing the space you live in seems very EV+

 
Ugh. I was just told that there isn't enough light in the living room. The recessed lights and lamp aren't doing enough, so I'll be changing out the perfectly good ceiling fan with one that has better lighting.
Have you tried brighter LEDs? You can use higher 'watt-equivalents' with LED (ie use a 60W equiv in a 40W enclosure)

 
The home we bought has replaced windows with this

http://www.uniframewindow.com/products/double_hung.html

Seem to work fine. I am going to put in an addition and will need 2-3 new windows. As someone who has never bought windows...how do you go about this? Specific questions are:

1) would you try to match the windows exactly? I plan to at least match the 'look' of them (stick with vinyl)

2) Do you just open the phone book and call the local window companies?

3) How do people feel about big boxes here (Lowes / HD)?

4) I am planning to do much of the project myself, how do people feel about installing windows yourself? Fairly easy? I will be framing the space out, so picture new construction

 
I learned everything off youtube and did it all myself. Pick a project, nothing is that difficult.
Yup. I never had any handymen in my family, so I had to become one myself. I've been pretty proud of some of the stuff I've accomplished just from watching instructional videos.

One big caveat: just like when you're watching a cooking instruction, be very aware of anything they gloss over, because that's bound to be the crucial step that trips you up later.
Yea, I became pretty handy once I owned a home. Now that I'm older and not as nimble as I was in my 30's, I'll hire out for uncomfortable stuff I don't want to do (like crawl around the attic to install a new ceiling fan, which is getting done as I type), but will happily take on most other projects. It's good to be able to replace breakers / install outlets / fix plumbing / etc without having to call someone. Building a new workbench / re-doing the garage in March - looking forward to that.

One thing I did learn is if you're not a pro, budget ample time, especially if you have an older home that someone else did DIY stuff to 30 years ago. There's always going to be an extra wire where you don't expect one, etc.

 
avoiding injuries said:
lumpy19 said:
Just finishing a mud room expansion with custom lockers for the kids(easily the biggest project I've done so far)

Next is re-doing the nursery for #3

Then tankless water heater

After that I'd like to move laundry to the basement
I would like to see pics of the lockers, even if it is the picture that inspired you. Sounds cool.Interesting, most people I know want laundry as high as possible. Space issue?
Here's the drawing I made for the lockers. Went to home depot and built this around the sizes they had so I had to make minimum cuts. I find that I never cut straight no matter how hard I try. This setup allowed me to use the "factory" edges for assy so it went together incredibly easy.

http://i58.tinypic.com/vrehzd.jpg

Here's a pic of it installed. Still need to paint and finish trim work but I'm really happy with how it turned out. The edge of the door on the right used to be the end of the room....where the lockers and closet are was garage space. The wall all the way at the end is an outside wall so I'm planning on adding a door there when the weather warms up a bit and instead of going thru the garage all the time we'll have an outside doorway to walk right into.

http://i60.tinypic.com/2du047m.jpg

Moving laundry to the basement is a space issue. Right now the laundry is off the kitchen and it's fine but if we move it to the basement we get a lot of extra room. We'd also have more laundry room in the basement.

 
avoiding injuries said:
lumpy19 said:
Just finishing a mud room expansion with custom lockers for the kids(easily the biggest project I've done so far)

Next is re-doing the nursery for #3

Then tankless water heater

After that I'd like to move laundry to the basement
I would like to see pics of the lockers, even if it is the picture that inspired you. Sounds cool.Interesting, most people I know want laundry as high as possible. Space issue?
i have never understood why anyone wants laundry up high most washing machines eventually fail somehow and then bam you have water ruining not one not two but possibly three levels of your home i say put those suckers in the basement take that to the bank

 
avoiding injuries said:
lumpy19 said:
Just finishing a mud room expansion with custom lockers for the kids(easily the biggest project I've done so far)

Next is re-doing the nursery for #3

Then tankless water heater

After that I'd like to move laundry to the basement
I would like to see pics of the lockers, even if it is the picture that inspired you. Sounds cool.Interesting, most people I know want laundry as high as possible. Space issue?
i have never understood why anyone wants laundry up high most washing machines eventually fail somehow and then bam you have water ruining not one not two but possibly three levels of your home i say put those suckers in the basement take that to the bank
Take it from someone that learned the hard way: Make sure your wife is on board with laundry in the basement. Hauling the clothes downstairs and then back again multiple times is a real pain in the rear and she will let you know about it. We have 4 kids and all bedrooms, including ours, were on the second floor of the house, so she got to haul laundry up and down multiple flights of stairs every day and with 6 people generating dirty clothes, this was a not a good thing.

I agree with the space thing but I won't ever go back to having laundry on any floor other than the one where the bedrooms are.

 
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avoiding injuries said:
lumpy19 said:
Just finishing a mud room expansion with custom lockers for the kids(easily the biggest project I've done so far)

Next is re-doing the nursery for #3

Then tankless water heater

After that I'd like to move laundry to the basement
I would like to see pics of the lockers, even if it is the picture that inspired you. Sounds cool.Interesting, most people I know want laundry as high as possible. Space issue?
i have never understood why anyone wants laundry up high most washing machines eventually fail somehow and then bam you have water ruining not one not two but possibly three levels of your home i say put those suckers in the basement take that to the bank
Take it from someone that learned the hard way: Make sure your wife is on board with laundry in the basement. Hauling the clothes downstairs and then back again multiple times is a real pain in the rear and she will let you know about it. We have 4 kids and all bedrooms, including ours, were on the second floor of the house, so she got to haul laundry up and down multiple flights of stairs every day and with 6 people generating dirty clothes, this was a not a good thing.I agree with the space thing but I won't ever go back to having laundry on any floor other than the one where the bedrooms are.
I get that it's more convenient to have laundry upstairs but honestly having to walk up and down stairs is a small price to pay for knowing that when that sucker fails it's not going to flood your kitchen and your living room below. Just remind her that she doesn't have to use a washing board and a bucket of water outside and she'll be grateful.
 
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avoiding injuries said:
lumpy19 said:
Just finishing a mud room expansion with custom lockers for the kids(easily the biggest project I've done so far)

Next is re-doing the nursery for #3

Then tankless water heater

After that I'd like to move laundry to the basement
I would like to see pics of the lockers, even if it is the picture that inspired you. Sounds cool.Interesting, most people I know want laundry as high as possible. Space issue?
i have never understood why anyone wants laundry up high most washing machines eventually fail somehow and then bam you have water ruining not one not two but possibly three levels of your home i say put those suckers in the basement take that to the bank
Take it from someone that learned the hard way: Make sure your wife is on board with laundry in the basement. Hauling the clothes downstairs and then back again multiple times is a real pain in the rear and she will let you know about it. We have 4 kids and all bedrooms, including ours, were on the second floor of the house, so she got to haul laundry up and down multiple flights of stairs every day and with 6 people generating dirty clothes, this was a not a good thing.I agree with the space thing but I won't ever go back to having laundry on any floor other than the one where the bedrooms are.
I get that it's more convenient to have laundry upstairs but honestly having to walk up and down stairs is a small price to pay for knowing that when that sucker fails it's not going to flood your kitchen and your living room below. Just remind her that she doesn't have to use a washing board and a bucket of water outside and she'll be grateful.
We now live in a ranch style home where everything is on one floor so that issue is now behind us and the laundry is actually located in the attached garage, so failure will not be a big deal at all.

I can remind her all I want about how good she has it, but that's a pretty slippery slope to be on and based on the "How often do you get laid" thread, it is clearly in my best interests to pick a different battle than this one to have with her.

 
How often are your washers failing and flooding? There's a drain pan that goes under it to catch leaks and with braided stainless steel hoses it shouldn't be an issue.

Do you guys keep your toilets in the basement too and tell the family to be happy they don't use an outhouse?

 
avoiding injuries said:
lumpy19 said:
Just finishing a mud room expansion with custom lockers for the kids(easily the biggest project I've done so far)

Next is re-doing the nursery for #3

Then tankless water heater

After that I'd like to move laundry to the basement
I would like to see pics of the lockers, even if it is the picture that inspired you. Sounds cool.Interesting, most people I know want laundry as high as possible. Space issue?
Here's the drawing I made for the lockers. Went to home depot and built this around the sizes they had so I had to make minimum cuts. I find that I never cut straight no matter how hard I try. This setup allowed me to use the "factory" edges for assy so it went together incredibly easy.

http://i58.tinypic.com/vrehzd.jpg

Here's a pic of it installed. Still need to paint and finish trim work but I'm really happy with how it turned out. The edge of the door on the right used to be the end of the room....where the lockers and closet are was garage space. The wall all the way at the end is an outside wall so I'm planning on adding a door there when the weather warms up a bit and instead of going thru the garage all the time we'll have an outside doorway to walk right into.

http://i60.tinypic.com/2du047m.jpg

Moving laundry to the basement is a space issue. Right now the laundry is off the kitchen and it's fine but if we move it to the basement we get a lot of extra room. We'd also have more laundry room in the basement.
Looks great. My current project is to finish my mudroom lockers project. I have the bench and lockers done. Just need to finish the cubbies that go above them. Posted a thread about this project a couple years ago when I was just planning/starting it. Haven't updated the thread because the process has taken so long (too many kids activities). Will take a pic and share in here when I get a chance.

Also just had basement finished, so managing that project was my most recent project.

 
How often are your washers failing and flooding? There's a drain pan that goes under it to catch leaks and with braided stainless steel hoses it shouldn't be an issue.

Do you guys keep your toilets in the basement too and tell the family to be happy they don't use an outhouse?
hey fancy pants stop rubbing it in about your fancy upstairs crappers and such not everyone is hauling in five figures big shot take that to the bank bromigos just kidding i get what you are saying but i guess i just really do not want my washer in the basement but i get what you are laying down brohan

 
Chronicled the redo of our kitchen last summer in a thread here. It was fun, but I was exhausted at the end. Don't think we'll do much this year. Might redo the half bath off the living room. It's quintessential 90s with mauve and teal wall paper. All we'd have to do is tear down the wallpaper, remove the vanity and toilet. Replace them and paint. Could probably do that in a couple weekends. The other thing is changing our front door and the railings from wood to rod iron. Would make a MAJOR difference to the foyer, but I'm not confident I can do that project myself.

 
I put in a patio last year outside of my walkout basement. This year I want to cover it. Either a pergola or a roof. I have windows on the main level above the patio that limit the types of roofs I can do.

I need to replace the railings on my deck and I'd like to put stairs in from the deck to the patio.
how tough was the patio? I need to do one this summer also, any advice / resources you suggest?
Did a paver patio last spring. Wasn't terribly difficult. The hardest part is just making sure to level out the ground before laying the pavers.

Think total cost of the pavers for a 24x14 patio was around $800 from Lowes

 
wilked said:
The home we bought has replaced windows with this

http://www.uniframewindow.com/products/double_hung.html

Seem to work fine. I am going to put in an addition and will need 2-3 new windows. As someone who has never bought windows...how do you go about this? Specific questions are:

1) would you try to match the windows exactly? I plan to at least match the 'look' of them (stick with vinyl)

2) Do you just open the phone book and call the local window companies?

3) How do people feel about big boxes here (Lowes / HD)?

4) I am planning to do much of the project myself, how do people feel about installing windows yourself? Fairly easy? I will be framing the space out, so picture new construction
I replaced all the windows in a house a couple years ago. The job started because a door to door window salesman nearly put my mom together on the project. When I looked into it for her, I was surprised how cheap the windows were if you ordered them online. So that's what I did. Then I was surprised at how easy this job is and how much room for error there is allowing for a perfect finished project.

1) Yes, see if you can figure out who made the windows and if they ship. If no luck, use a replacement window manufacturer nearest you to save on shipping and choose a product that is the closest match. Home Depot had a very close match that I used on the garage after realizing I failed to order a window for it.

2) I used Google and price shopped. The best deal for me was a company in Riverside CA because I picked up the windows myself to save on shipping. That was the most challenging part of the job, transporting 10 windows safely. I used a U-Haul.

3) The companies I spoke to all badmouthed the price/quality of Home Depot and Lowes products and each had little features and benefits that supposedly made there's better. I went for the savings. I believe the windows I used are as good as the top shelf stuff in Home Depot, but I paid bottom shelf prices. I also had some odd sizes and custom ordering would have been necessary even if I went with HD. The online order is obviously all about giving the manufacturer precise measurements, but there is wiggle room to about half inch, surprisingly.

4) Yes, fairly easy, really really easy, laughably easy. I pulled up at my mom's house with a truckload of replacement windows at about 3pm and told her I was going to work on one of the bedroom windows to see if I needed help and do the rest over the weekend. It took me a couple hours, going slow, reading directions taking out the old glass has it's quirks, and basically learning my way around the project... and the first window was in. By 9pm all the windows were in but a big one I couldn't handle myself. It was in the next morning with help from her next door neighboor. I can install a replacement window, like hers anyway, in 15 to 20 minutes once set up for the job.

 
Impressive CC. I had some guys do it for my house (incl two new doors). Took them two days (but the windows were all pretty big and off the ground).

I orderedon the net as well - the company sent a guy out to do the measuring as well, then made them to order. Granted this was in Denmark.

 
Impressive CC. I had some guys do it for my house (incl two new doors). Took them two days (but the windows were all pretty big and off the ground).

I orderedon the net as well - the company sent a guy out to do the measuring as well, then made them to order. Granted this was in Denmark.
This job was so easy I think the pros have a little con going. I am pretty handy and have been fixing up fixers since the 80s, but I'm an idiot compared to a mediocre contractor and this job was easy peasy. It's just a matter of diving in. Granted my mom's house is a single level and the windows were lightweight and easy to handle sizes, but leveling them out and screwing them into the existing frames from the old windows is super simple.

 
wilked said:
The home we bought has replaced windows with this

http://www.uniframewindow.com/products/double_hung.html

Seem to work fine. I am going to put in an addition and will need 2-3 new windows. As someone who has never bought windows...how do you go about this? Specific questions are:

1) would you try to match the windows exactly? I plan to at least match the 'look' of them (stick with vinyl)

2) Do you just open the phone book and call the local window companies?

3) How do people feel about big boxes here (Lowes / HD)?

4) I am planning to do much of the project myself, how do people feel about installing windows yourself? Fairly easy? I will be framing the space out, so picture new construction
I replaced all the windows in a house a couple years ago. The job started because a door to door window salesman nearly put my mom together on the project. When I looked into it for her, I was surprised how cheap the windows were if you ordered them online. So that's what I did. Then I was surprised at how easy this job is and how much room for error there is allowing for a perfect finished project.

1) Yes, see if you can figure out who made the windows and if they ship. If no luck, use a replacement window manufacturer nearest you to save on shipping and choose a product that is the closest match. Home Depot had a very close match that I used on the garage after realizing I failed to order a window for it.

2) I used Google and price shopped. The best deal for me was a company in Riverside CA because I picked up the windows myself to save on shipping. That was the most challenging part of the job, transporting 10 windows safely. I used a U-Haul.

3) The companies I spoke to all badmouthed the price/quality of Home Depot and Lowes products and each had little features and benefits that supposedly made there's better. I went for the savings. I believe the windows I used are as good as the top shelf stuff in Home Depot, but I paid bottom shelf prices. I also had some odd sizes and custom ordering would have been necessary even if I went with HD. The online order is obviously all about giving the manufacturer precise measurements, but there is wiggle room to about half inch, surprisingly.

4) Yes, fairly easy, really really easy, laughably easy. I pulled up at my mom's house with a truckload of replacement windows at about 3pm and told her I was going to work on one of the bedroom windows to see if I needed help and do the rest over the weekend. It took me a couple hours, going slow, reading directions taking out the old glass has it's quirks, and basically learning my way around the project... and the first window was in. By 9pm all the windows were in but a big one I couldn't handle myself. It was in the next morning with help from her next door neighboor. I can install a replacement window, like hers anyway, in 15 to 20 minutes once set up for the job.
So question. I know how old school windows would go in.

I've been thinking of slowly replacing my windows. So my house has I'm pretty sure vinyl windows that are from around 1998. I'm guessing they are replacement windows to start.

My windows and frames are similar to this - http://romanmarblene.com/images/window_sill/sill_1.jpg

Are they screwed in from the outside under the siding?

 
wilked said:
4) I am planning to do much of the project myself, how do people feel about installing windows yourself? Fairly easy? I will be framing the space out, so picture new construction
I missed the new construction part but it changes little. Your order will be a little different and you'll have more options. The exterior molding/design and interior trim are what give you a little leeway and make this job simple.

I came back to this to say that new windows on an older house is probably my favorite upgrade. The precision work us laymen tend to botch is done in a factory and all you do is prep the space, set the window in it, level, screw down, seal, and paint if needed. The result is pretty impressive to others and you just didn't do that much as opposed to say tiling a bathroom floor.

 
Shadowfax...anytime you need to do a full rewire and reinsulation, it is a fixer...
It depends. We have old K&T wiring (which also helps explain why there isn't any insulation in the older parts of the house). We haven't had any real electrical issues yet...we've tripped the breaker once/twice in the kitchen when everything has been running at the same time. But there have been some homeowners insurance issues, K&T wasn't designed to handle all the modern-day appliances...and most importantly, the wife thinks it's unsafe. So while we're doing all the other work, we spending the extra $5K to replace the K&T and bring it more up to date/up to code.

 
msommer said:
And then maybe in a year or 2, we'll tackle the garage, backyard and landscaping.
One of the first things we did when we bought my current house (after living in apartments for fifteen years) was to fix the back yard, so on a summer's day we could sit with a col drink after work and just enjoy. Hard work if you do it yourself (we did) but totally worth it.
I hear ya. It's not bad right now...grass and patio. But I want to make it a place I want to spend some time. I would rather do this than all the work on the house...but wife disagrees. Strongly disagrees. So guess what comes first?

 
Fat Nick said:
Redoing office. Painted it again and having tile installed. Finally getting an L-shaped desk with wrap around cabinets and some new solid shelves for the closet. Custom master closet is the next project, but I need to re-sod the entire yard ASAP.
If you're not dead-set on wood custom closets like California Closets, etc, the Rubbermaid/Closetmaid metal shelving has come a long way. I did our walk-in with it shortly after we moved. It's a fraction of the cost of the wood stuff, and IMO fits a lot more stuff. You can even get drawers and shoe racks, etc. Very flexible, and if you have a basic bolt cutter ($20), you can cut it yourself as you go.
How sturdy is it? My wife has tons of heavy coats and tends to break a lot of closets. Like you really need the same coat in 15 different colors. :angry:

 
wilked said:
The home we bought has replaced windows with this

http://www.uniframewindow.com/products/double_hung.html

Seem to work fine. I am going to put in an addition and will need 2-3 new windows. As someone who has never bought windows...how do you go about this? Specific questions are:

1) would you try to match the windows exactly? I plan to at least match the 'look' of them (stick with vinyl)

2) Do you just open the phone book and call the local window companies?

3) How do people feel about big boxes here (Lowes / HD)?

4) I am planning to do much of the project myself, how do people feel about installing windows yourself? Fairly easy? I will be framing the space out, so picture new construction
I replaced all the windows in a house a couple years ago. The job started because a door to door window salesman nearly put my mom together on the project. When I looked into it for her, I was surprised how cheap the windows were if you ordered them online. So that's what I did. Then I was surprised at how easy this job is and how much room for error there is allowing for a perfect finished project.

1) Yes, see if you can figure out who made the windows and if they ship. If no luck, use a replacement window manufacturer nearest you to save on shipping and choose a product that is the closest match. Home Depot had a very close match that I used on the garage after realizing I failed to order a window for it.

2) I used Google and price shopped. The best deal for me was a company in Riverside CA because I picked up the windows myself to save on shipping. That was the most challenging part of the job, transporting 10 windows safely. I used a U-Haul.

3) The companies I spoke to all badmouthed the price/quality of Home Depot and Lowes products and each had little features and benefits that supposedly made there's better. I went for the savings. I believe the windows I used are as good as the top shelf stuff in Home Depot, but I paid bottom shelf prices. I also had some odd sizes and custom ordering would have been necessary even if I went with HD. The online order is obviously all about giving the manufacturer precise measurements, but there is wiggle room to about half inch, surprisingly.

4) Yes, fairly easy, really really easy, laughably easy. I pulled up at my mom's house with a truckload of replacement windows at about 3pm and told her I was going to work on one of the bedroom windows to see if I needed help and do the rest over the weekend. It took me a couple hours, going slow, reading directions taking out the old glass has it's quirks, and basically learning my way around the project... and the first window was in. By 9pm all the windows were in but a big one I couldn't handle myself. It was in the next morning with help from her next door neighboor. I can install a replacement window, like hers anyway, in 15 to 20 minutes once set up for the job.
So question. I know how old school windows would go in.

I've been thinking of slowly replacing my windows. So my house has I'm pretty sure vinyl windows that are from around 1998. I'm guessing they are replacement windows to start.

My windows and frames are similar to this - http://romanmarblene.com/images/window_sill/sill_1.jpg

Are they screwed in from the outside under the siding?
If they're replacements already then I doubt it. The ones I did and the ones I've seen done all mount over/on/around the existing metal frames. You remove the glass and everything but the outer metal and then drill through that metal into the studs.

I like this guy until the very end. If he's right about how simple this is why recommend a pro?

Youtube has this topic covered far better than I could do it here. All I can say is don't fear this job. Fear tile, fear stained concrete, fear electrical, fear plumbing, your diy skylights will probably leak. I'd rather install replacement windows than paint. It's easier, you'll make less mistakes, and others will be much more impressed.

 
wilked said:
The home we bought has replaced windows with this

http://www.uniframewindow.com/products/double_hung.html

Seem to work fine. I am going to put in an addition and will need 2-3 new windows. As someone who has never bought windows...how do you go about this? Specific questions are:

1) would you try to match the windows exactly? I plan to at least match the 'look' of them (stick with vinyl)

2) Do you just open the phone book and call the local window companies?

3) How do people feel about big boxes here (Lowes / HD)?

4) I am planning to do much of the project myself, how do people feel about installing windows yourself? Fairly easy? I will be framing the space out, so picture new construction
I replaced all the windows in a house a couple years ago. The job started because a door to door window salesman nearly put my mom together on the project. When I looked into it for her, I was surprised how cheap the windows were if you ordered them online. So that's what I did. Then I was surprised at how easy this job is and how much room for error there is allowing for a perfect finished project.

1) Yes, see if you can figure out who made the windows and if they ship. If no luck, use a replacement window manufacturer nearest you to save on shipping and choose a product that is the closest match. Home Depot had a very close match that I used on the garage after realizing I failed to order a window for it.

2) I used Google and price shopped. The best deal for me was a company in Riverside CA because I picked up the windows myself to save on shipping. That was the most challenging part of the job, transporting 10 windows safely. I used a U-Haul.

3) The companies I spoke to all badmouthed the price/quality of Home Depot and Lowes products and each had little features and benefits that supposedly made there's better. I went for the savings. I believe the windows I used are as good as the top shelf stuff in Home Depot, but I paid bottom shelf prices. I also had some odd sizes and custom ordering would have been necessary even if I went with HD. The online order is obviously all about giving the manufacturer precise measurements, but there is wiggle room to about half inch, surprisingly.

4) Yes, fairly easy, really really easy, laughably easy. I pulled up at my mom's house with a truckload of replacement windows at about 3pm and told her I was going to work on one of the bedroom windows to see if I needed help and do the rest over the weekend. It took me a couple hours, going slow, reading directions taking out the old glass has it's quirks, and basically learning my way around the project... and the first window was in. By 9pm all the windows were in but a big one I couldn't handle myself. It was in the next morning with help from her next door neighboor. I can install a replacement window, like hers anyway, in 15 to 20 minutes once set up for the job.
So question. I know how old school windows would go in.

I've been thinking of slowly replacing my windows. So my house has I'm pretty sure vinyl windows that are from around 1998. I'm guessing they are replacement windows to start.

My windows and frames are similar to this - http://romanmarblene.com/images/window_sill/sill_1.jpg

Are they screwed in from the outside under the siding?
If they're replacements already then I doubt it. The ones I did and the ones I've seen done all mount over/on/around the existing metal frames. You remove the glass and everything but the outer metal and then drill through that metal into the studs.

I like this guy until the very end. If he's right about how simple this is why recommend a pro?

Youtube has this topic covered far better than I could do it here. All I can say is don't fear this job. Fear tile, fear stained concrete, fear electrical, fear plumbing, your diy skylights will probably leak. I'd rather install replacement windows than paint. It's easier, you'll make less mistakes, and others will be much more impressed.
Thanks. I've hung windows in the past but it was the old school remove the trim and screw in :) Thanks

I just can't seem to figure out where these are screwed in. :bag: I'm sure there are some vinyl trim pieces I have to take off

ETA - the house was built in 98 so they are original but the "type" I'm not sure about

 
Last edited by a moderator:
Keeping my pipes from freezing and bursting over the next few days.....
x2

A few days ago, the water stopped working in the tub in our guest bathroom. The toilet and sink in the room worked fine. I couldn't figure it out to save my life...common supply line running up from the basement. Ran up an interior wall. Couldn't figure it out. I thought maybe it was some sediment or something as we had some issues with sediment build-up. Pulled the valve, nothing.

I started looking at it in more depth. Turns out that bathroom sits on top of the wall between the interior office and the garage. Not a full exterior wall, but still, the garage is a bit colder. Anyway, the main line runs up the interior wall (office/kitchen), and up to the floor of the bathroom. The sink and toilet sit above the office. The tub sits above the garage. This means the supply line for the tub runs in the garage ceiling, which given the obscenely cold temps lately, is likely below freezing. So...that's why the tub doesn't work. Now, sometime soon, I probably get to pull the drywall down from the ceiling in the garage, find this supply line, and insulate the crap out of it (maybe even build in some blocking that isolates it from the rest of the garage joist opening.) The only good news is that it's in the garage, so I'm not going to even bother with repainting.

 
Fat Nick said:
Redoing office. Painted it again and having tile installed. Finally getting an L-shaped desk with wrap around cabinets and some new solid shelves for the closet. Custom master closet is the next project, but I need to re-sod the entire yard ASAP.
If you're not dead-set on wood custom closets like California Closets, etc, the Rubbermaid/Closetmaid metal shelving has come a long way. I did our walk-in with it shortly after we moved. It's a fraction of the cost of the wood stuff, and IMO fits a lot more stuff. You can even get drawers and shoe racks, etc. Very flexible, and if you have a basic bolt cutter ($20), you can cut it yourself as you go.
How sturdy is it? My wife has tons of heavy coats and tends to break a lot of closets. Like you really need the same coat in 15 different colors. :angry:
So I used the Closetmaid Shelf Track stuff. Basically, there's a header bar that you bolt to the wall (into studs), then standards that come down (don't have to be on studs). The shelf brackets fit into the standards and you can adjust from there.

I built mine a little overkill...the headers (horizontal) are in the studs, and 80% of the standards are in the studs too (vertical). I used small lag bolts to hold them in. Basically, my system isn't moving. We've got double-hangar bars and storage above the top bar 2/3 of the way around, and full-wall storage on the rest. I'm 100% confident that I could lay on one of the shelves in addition to the clothes, and a shelf bracket would break before anythign would come out of the wall. We actually put that up after the crap bar-and-shelf that was in there when we moved in collapsed under the weight of all of our clothes.

FWIW, I also put the Closetmaid Garage Shelving using the same basic system in my garage. It's the same concept, just beefier hardware, and deeper shelves. I've got a full 18' wall, 12' high with ~6 shelves, piled with paint cans, tools, oil, etc. Has to be well over 1,500 lbs of stuff on it. It's not moving either. As long as you hit a stud, you can put whatever you want on it.

 
So I figured this is worth a shot in the dark to ask...

Does anybody have a Positive-Placement Nail Gun that I could borrow for a few weeks this spring? These are also known as metal strap hanger guns. They're designed to shoot nails accurately into the metal hangar straps you use to build decks. I'm expanding our deck, and will have to drive well over 1,000 nails, and having one of these would save me a TON of time. I've considered just buying one and then selling it when I'm done as I likely won't have another use for it afterwards, but I figured it can't hurt to ask the FBG community if someone has one...

 
Keeping my pipes from freezing and bursting over the next few days.....
x2

A few days ago, the water stopped working in the tub in our guest bathroom. The toilet and sink in the room worked fine. I couldn't figure it out to save my life...common supply line running up from the basement. Ran up an interior wall. Couldn't figure it out. I thought maybe it was some sediment or something as we had some issues with sediment build-up. Pulled the valve, nothing.

I started looking at it in more depth. Turns out that bathroom sits on top of the wall between the interior office and the garage. Not a full exterior wall, but still, the garage is a bit colder. Anyway, the main line runs up the interior wall (office/kitchen), and up to the floor of the bathroom. The sink and toilet sit above the office. The tub sits above the garage. This means the supply line for the tub runs in the garage ceiling, which given the obscenely cold temps lately, is likely below freezing. So...that's why the tub doesn't work. Now, sometime soon, I probably get to pull the drywall down from the ceiling in the garage, find this supply line, and insulate the crap out of it (maybe even build in some blocking that isolates it from the rest of the garage joist opening.) The only good news is that it's in the garage, so I'm not going to even bother with repainting.
So the pipe froze, but didn't burst? Lucky you!

 
Keeping my pipes from freezing and bursting over the next few days.....
x2

A few days ago, the water stopped working in the tub in our guest bathroom. The toilet and sink in the room worked fine. I couldn't figure it out to save my life...common supply line running up from the basement. Ran up an interior wall. Couldn't figure it out. I thought maybe it was some sediment or something as we had some issues with sediment build-up. Pulled the valve, nothing.

I started looking at it in more depth. Turns out that bathroom sits on top of the wall between the interior office and the garage. Not a full exterior wall, but still, the garage is a bit colder. Anyway, the main line runs up the interior wall (office/kitchen), and up to the floor of the bathroom. The sink and toilet sit above the office. The tub sits above the garage. This means the supply line for the tub runs in the garage ceiling, which given the obscenely cold temps lately, is likely below freezing. So...that's why the tub doesn't work. Now, sometime soon, I probably get to pull the drywall down from the ceiling in the garage, find this supply line, and insulate the crap out of it (maybe even build in some blocking that isolates it from the rest of the garage joist opening.) The only good news is that it's in the garage, so I'm not going to even bother with repainting.
So the pipe froze, but didn't burst? Lucky you!
...It's still frozen. It hasn't gotten above freezing all week. I opened the door to the bedroom at the end of the hall (over the garage) to let that room heat up, hoping that would help. That room is usually closed and cold unless we have company coming. We'll see what happens.

It did this once before and we didn't pin it down to freezing, mostly because I couldn't understand how the water worked fine for the toilet and sink. It didn't burst that time, so maybe it won't this time either...fingers crossed.

 
My advice, turn off the water to that bathroom if you can. The problem comes when it thaws, not when it freezes. Turn off the water and turn on the sink.

 

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