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Home-owners...What are your current projects? (5 Viewers)

I'm curious how much an on call plumber cost in your area.  
Usually the service call is $75 minimum.  This was $295 + tax to snake the main out to the street.  I tipped him a hundo, because he basically saved my life last night in the middle of the night when no other plumber would show up, all while drudging through my crap and pee.  You cannot put a price on that.

 
Usually the service call is $75 minimum.  This was $295 + tax to snake the main out to the street.  I tipped him a hundo, because he basically saved my life last night in the middle of the night when no other plumber would show up, all while drudging through my crap and pee.  You cannot put a price on that.
I guess my worry is that if it wasn't a single event (say the kids flushed a toy down the drain) it will come back

 
Otis said:
Usually the service call is $75 minimum.  This was $295 + tax to snake the main out to the street.  I tipped him a hundo, because he basically saved my life last night in the middle of the night when no other plumber would show up, all while drudging through my crap and pee.  You cannot put a price on that.
Sounds like the price is about $395.

 
Otis said:
Usually the service call is $75 minimum.  This was $295 + tax to snake the main out to the street.  I tipped him a hundo, because he basically saved my life last night in the middle of the night when no other plumber would show up, all while drudging through my crap and pee.  You cannot put a price on that.
I had an older house where this happened a few times.  Not good when you have sewer water with floaters.  had tree roots infiltrate my sewer line.  Basically did the preventative deal where i had the sewer cleaned out once a year for $150.  no more back ups.

 
Last Sunday decided to replace the rollers on garage(electric) door.  Looked simple, un- screw a couple of bolts, replace roller, screw bolts back in.  10 rollers in all.   Either read the directions or HIRE someone!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!   First bolts I unscrewed were for the bottom right of the door.  That is attached to a tension wire that goes up to the cast iron roller.  Basically could not open or close the garage door for 4 hours.  Got a handyman over and we finished it, but what a headache.

 
Last Sunday decided to replace the rollers on garage(electric) door.  Looked simple, un- screw a couple of bolts, replace roller, screw bolts back in.  10 rollers in all.   Either read the directions or HIRE someone!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!   First bolts I unscrewed were for the bottom right of the door.  That is attached to a tension wire that goes up to the cast iron roller.  Basically could not open or close the garage door for 4 hours.  Got a handyman over and we finished it, but what a headache.
Garage doors are dangerous, that's something I leave for the professionals.  That being said, I probably would have thought the rollers would be an easy job as well.

When my spring broke I had them change out the metal rollers for quieter plastic for $75. 

 
My garage door is a little "jerky" when it opens and loud, while my parents' is as smooth as butter and quiet. Is this just a tension setting on the garage door opener (the little dial, I believe), or is it because their garage door opener is a lot newer and a better model than mine (or at least more expensive - mine is builder grade)? 

 
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Our stove is on the kitchen island and there is no ventilation.  The ceiling is 10' high.  I'm 6'5" and I don't want one of the hoods that has to be 36" from the cooking surface as I'm sure i will always hit my head on it.

One option is a flush ceiling mount, but i don't see many options to choose from.

Another option is downdraft, but I haven't had good experience with those and it would take up a lot of the storage space in the island that my wife uses for pots/pans/etc 

Thoughts?

 
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Garage doors are dangerous, that's something I leave for the professionals.  That being said, I probably would have thought the rollers would be an easy job as well.

When my spring broke I had them change out the metal rollers for quieter plastic for $75. 
On the list of things I won't do:  Main breaker box, climbing on the roof, and screwing around with the spring on a garage door.  

 
My garage door is a little "jerky" when it opens and loud, while my parents' is as smooth as butter and quiet. Is this just a tension setting on the garage door opener (the little dial, I believe), or is it because their garage door opener is a lot newer and a better model than mine (or at least more expensive - mine is builder grade)? 
ok a few things you want to adjust the garage door with the up and down distance dials to that it does not slam the ground and does not slam in to the stop bolt near the motor unit the gears inside the unit are plastic on most and will just basically grind to hell if you are hitting the ground or the stop bolt and having the unit stop due to resistence if you have been doing that the gears may be shot and that can result in herky jerky motion the gear set is like 50 bucks and is do it yourselfable also if you have old rollers on the door they can screw you up as well basically grease them use some grease on the track and get it dialed in and see if that matters take that to the bank brohans 

 
On the list of things I won't do:  Main breaker box, climbing on the roof, and screwing around with the spring on a garage door.  
dont mess around with the spring if that goes sideways you can honestly get seriously injured just pay someone to fix it for you its cheap and its significantly safer take that to the bank bromigo

 
otis do you know if you have old clay lines to the street or what if you do and you are getting roots they will keep coming back or if the clay is collapsing it stands a strong chance of getting worse or failing once and for all my suggestion for a guy like you is call a sewer contractor have them run a camera line through it and see what you are dealing with if its all shot to hell get it replaced with pvc clay only lasts 50 years or so pvc should last 100 for a guy with your bankroll its money well spent to protect that castle and not worry about backups take that to the bank bromigo

 
I think I have a break in my drain line by my MBR.  There were two huge Palm trees by the corner of the house, and one was already removed when I bought.  There have been 2 occasions (years apart) where we had a slug climb through the sink, and they said that could be the cause.   

 
I got a new garage opener (rubber belt), and plastic rollers all installed for about $400.  Definitely an investment I recommend.  Before my garage sounded like a garbage truck, now it's incredibly quiet.

 
Replaced my basement sink (wall-mount) with a used one for $25.  The old one might be original to the house (100 year old house) and never worked).

New supply valves (GB Sharkbite), installed, and I need the drain to come out 2 inches.  Not exactly sure how to proceed...  

https://i.imgur.com/eKaavPQ.jpg

 
Replaced my basement sink (wall-mount) with a used one for $25.  The old one might be original to the house (100 year old house) and never worked).

New supply valves (GB Sharkbite), installed, and I need the drain to come out 2 inches.  Not exactly sure how to proceed...  

https://i.imgur.com/eKaavPQ.jpg
I have seen flexible p-traps similar to a flexible straw but with current configuration not sure you would be able to use it.  

Woukd it be an option to cut the drain pipe coming from the wall and use a compression fitting and add a longer pipe to line them up?

 
I have seen flexible p-traps similar to a flexible straw but with current configuration not sure you would be able to use it.  

Woukd it be an option to cut the drain pipe coming from the wall and use a compression fitting and add a longer pipe to line them up?
That second option is the one I am almost certain to do

first one sounds like clog city...

 
Usually the service call is $75 minimum.  This was $295 + tax to snake the main out to the street.  I tipped him a hundo, because he basically saved my life last night in the middle of the night when no other plumber would show up, all while drudging through my crap and pee.  You cannot put a price on that.
It appears you can.  $470 plus tax. 

 
otis do you know if you have old clay lines to the street or what if you do and you are getting roots they will keep coming back or if the clay is collapsing it stands a strong chance of getting worse or failing once and for all my suggestion for a guy like you is call a sewer contractor have them run a camera line through it and see what you are dealing with if its all shot to hell get it replaced with pvc clay only lasts 50 years or so pvc should last 100 for a guy with your bankroll its money well spent to protect that castle and not worry about backups take that to the bank bromigo
:thumbup:  

its a hundred year old house; and there are two big old trees out on our front lawn between the house and the street. So this is entirely possible. Seems like a PIA and a spend I’d rather not deal with though....  maybe I’ll hope and pray this was a one time thing and never happens again?

it totally sucked 

 
:thumbup:  

its a hundred year old house; and there are two big old trees out on our front lawn between the house and the street. So this is entirely possible. Seems like a PIA and a spend I’d rather not deal with though....  maybe I’ll hope and pray this was a one time thing and never happens again?

it totally sucked 
If the line is breached, it won't heal. I agree with SWC - it may be the only post of his/hers I completely understood - run a camera through it. If it's clay (or iron, which will rust out), you're better off replacing it. Otherwise your yard becomes a drain field and you will start noticing it.

 
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Reactions: SWC
brand?  that's a great price.  
Genie.  I had a broken spring and the technician did a little side hustle.  Told me to go buy an opener at Lowe's, and he would install it for cash.  Its been a few years so I could be off on the price, but it was a great deal.   He did the spring, new rollers, and put in the new opener.  The door is still in good condition.

 
I have had a few times where I am able to work a side deal with a contractor.  Often times they will out right offer you their moonlighting service.  I had an irrigation guy come out on an estimate and he told me "this is what we charge, which is a rip-off, I'll do it for x"

If they won't do it outright like that, even the most honest guys will be tempted to do extra services for cash.  I had a plumber swapping out s water heater and while he was doing it I asked how much for a shutoff valve.  He pulled out his price book and it was like $150 or something.  It was a big commercial company with an actual laminated binder of all the prices for services.  I offered him a fraction in cash, and he agreed.  

You obviously have to be careful about unlicensed guys if you ever deal with moonlighting workers.  

 
My current project last night was calling a dozen plumbers to come by after our main sewage line backed up and our basement bathroom and laundry room filled with backed up sewer water.  That was fun.


I had an older house where this happened a few times.  Not good when you have sewer water with floaters.  had tree roots infiltrate my sewer line.  Basically did the preventative deal where i had the sewer cleaned out once a year for $150.  no more back ups.


:thumbup:  

its a hundred year old house; and there are two big old trees out on our front lawn between the house and the street. So this is entirely possible. Seems like a PIA and a spend I’d rather not deal with though....  maybe I’ll hope and pray this was a one time thing and never happens again?

it totally sucked 
I’d probably get a camera down there.  Call around, see who offers free estimates.  Have them show you what they find

ours was recently clogged with tree roots, found a place to do the hydro jetting for $800.  

so far so good 🤞

 
Making good progress. Once I opened the wall a little saw there wasn’t much to it. Ended up being 1.5” male threaded cast iron fitting. Screwed the old p trap off, Home Depot trip, and I just glued it all together. 

Last thing will be landing the wall bracket. I think I need to be within 1/2” to get it right...gonna be a little tricky 

that’s for later

https://imgur.com/gallery/lEhilAQ

 
Redoing the kitchen (17'x15') and living room (17'x25').  It is truly open concept with continuous crown molding and same honey oak cabinets/fireplace/built-ins throughout.

First is adding to the kitchen cabinets by adding a second level door all the way to the 9' ceiling.  Our cabinets are solid oak and great quality, so I want to keep them.  Talking to a woodworker on that and hoping to get an estimate soon.

Second thing is replacing countertops (80 sqft) in the kitchen/island/bar.  Got the estimate for that at $3300 installed.  I've used this company twice and they are solid.  One issue is the ceramic single drain sink we have.  They want it the week before for the cutout (if undermount).  Wife is deciding if she wants under/over.  

Next is resurfacing or painting all of the woodwork, repainting walls, and ceiling.  Got an estimate for that, including master bathroom and bedroom, for $4100.  I like the price, but he is saying two weeks to complete and no sanding is required...hmmm.  He said the primer he uses will work despite the varnish and then he will use an enamel spray.  Not sure how i feel about that.  Waiting on wife to pick out color, but she wants it darker since the counter tops will be whiteish granite.

Next will be replacing the flooring in the kitchen and utility room (9'x6') only (keeping wood floors in living room).  Think I'll remove the existing tile myself and then have someone install that and the backsplash.  I could do it, as I've done it before, but I have a bad back and don't want to tempt it.  Wife needs to pick out the tile.

Finally we will be replacing the appliances sans fridge.  Wife actually wants black, which surprised me but whatever.  

And as i finish typing this I'm reminded that we need to replace the fans and light fixtures (cans).

I'm thinking about installing a vent above the island cooktop (currently no ventilation), but that will probably wait till everything is budgeted.

Need an app that i can easily take a photo and change the color based off an input (another photo or sherwin williams color #).

 
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Just got the roof re-done last Friday and Saturday with the Owens Corning system.  These shingles have to be at least twice as thick as the garbage 15 year shingles the house came with.  Warrantied up to 130 mph, 30 year material, and 25 year labor.  This is the last roof I will buy for this house.  Very happy, but it was pricey.

 
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Update going a little slower than I would like but I'm the only one working on it.  https://i.imgur.com/ncfpBtC.jpg,  

Rehab https://imgur.com/a/lEIvIsu

Some more pics. Also ceiling height went from 6'6" to 8'6".
Update got the ceiling raised in kitchen and utility room fun and lights in.  https://i.imgur.com/MdI0C3j.jpg,  https://i.imgur.com/ISdfocO.jpg,  pic of bathroom with old electric.  https://i.imgur.com/tXSUeKU.jpg,  https://i.imgur.com/vro5nKZ.jpg. that's right no electrical box just filled with saw dust!  Amazing this house never burned down!

 
Making good progress. Once I opened the wall a little saw there wasn’t much to it. Ended up being 1.5” male threaded cast iron fitting. Screwed the old p trap off, Home Depot trip, and I just glued it all together. 

Last thing will be landing the wall bracket. I think I need to be within 1/2” to get it right...gonna be a little tricky 

that’s for later

https://imgur.com/gallery/lEhilAQ
Did you test for lead?  I'd also think about replacing all of that dry wall.  Looks like it took on some water and have potential mold issues.

 
Just got the roof re-done last Friday and Saturday with the Owens Corning system.  These shingles have to be at least twice as thick as the garbage 15 year shingles the house came with.  Warrantied up to 130 mph, 30 year material, and 25 year labor.  This is the last roof I will buy for this house.  Very happy, but it was pricey.
How much more than regular?  

 
How much more than regular?  
I got quotes ranging from $10k-$14k.  Managed to get roof for right around $12k.  It cost maybe $2k more than a tar paper/cheap shingle replacement.  The more difficult thing was actually scheduling it.  I lucked out as the roofers I went with were only 2-3 weeks out.  Now they’re 3-5 weeks and we’re getting near the bad part of the year here in FL.

 
Bought a house. The projects we need to do first is knocking down wall between kitchen and living room (open concept), rip up carpets and refinish hardwood floors, and rip off wallpaper and painting. We were also thinking about turning a spare bedroom into a walk in closet. Dumb?

 
Bought a house. The projects we need to do first is knocking down wall between kitchen and living room (open concept), rip up carpets and refinish hardwood floors, and rip off wallpaper and painting. We were also thinking about turning a spare bedroom into a walk in closet. Dumb?
Make sure the wall you are taking out is not load bearing.

Spare bed room as closet is not dumb as long as you don't "alter the floor plan".  Meaning if you were to leave tomorrow and you removed whatever shelving/storage it would be a bedroom again.

 
Make sure the wall you are taking out is not load bearing.

Spare bed room as closet is not dumb as long as you don't "alter the floor plan".  Meaning if you were to leave tomorrow and you removed whatever shelving/storage it would be a bedroom again.
For the former it is load bearing. Im definitely not taking it out myself. 

For the latter that's the plan. 

 
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So after calling 3 different companies to get estimates to replace the rain cap on my chimney, and getting 3 of the most ridiculous offers ever, I climbed up on my roof this weekend to measure the cap so I can order a replacement.  Putting it in might take me 10 minutes...getting up there 2x (to measure and then later install) is such a pain though.  I really hate climbing on my roof.  SO #######' steep.  It's just such an uneasy feeling, even with a rope to help me traverse up to the peak and back down.  Should be worth the trouble as the new cap is $140...My estimates were as follows:

1) $600 to replace

2) Won't do it without also cleaning the chimney - $700 all-in.

3) The best one of them all - Told me my entire chase top needed to be replaced with a custom stainless steel top at a cost of $1,900 and he wouldn't do just the cap...and told me all this without even going up on the roof to look at it.

 
So after calling 3 different companies to get estimates to replace the rain cap on my chimney, and getting 3 of the most ridiculous offers ever, I climbed up on my roof this weekend to measure the cap so I can order a replacement.  Putting it in might take me 10 minutes...getting up there 2x (to measure and then later install) is such a pain though.  I really hate climbing on my roof.  SO #######' steep.  It's just such an uneasy feeling, even with a rope to help me traverse up to the peak and back down.  Should be worth the trouble as the new cap is $140...My estimates were as follows:

1) $600 to replace

2) Won't do it without also cleaning the chimney - $700 all-in.

3) The best one of them all - Told me my entire chase top needed to be replaced with a custom stainless steel top at a cost of $1,900 and he wouldn't do just the cap...and told me all this without even going up on the roof to look at it.
You might want to still have a chimney sweep clean it even if you do the other work yourself. Lots of people never clean their chimney and it does create a legitimate risk if the fireplace has been used regularly for years and years. 

 
You might want to still have a chimney sweep clean it even if you do the other work yourself. Lots of people never clean their chimney and it does create a legitimate risk if the fireplace has been used regularly for years and years. 
if he's already up there...just clean it himself (with a helper below).  

https://www.amazon.com/Rutland-16512-12-Inch-Fitting-Chimney/dp/B0002YWIBS/

$30 plus the price of a rope.  Take it through a couple times until not much stuff comes down with it.  Done

 
So after calling 3 different companies to get estimates to replace the rain cap on my chimney, and getting 3 of the most ridiculous offers ever, I climbed up on my roof this weekend to measure the cap so I can order a replacement.  Putting it in might take me 10 minutes...getting up there 2x (to measure and then later install) is such a pain though.  I really hate climbing on my roof.  SO #######' steep.  It's just such an uneasy feeling, even with a rope to help me traverse up to the peak and back down.  Should be worth the trouble as the new cap is $140...My estimates were as follows:

1) $600 to replace

2) Won't do it without also cleaning the chimney - $700 all-in.

3) The best one of them all - Told me my entire chase top needed to be replaced with a custom stainless steel top at a cost of $1,900 and he wouldn't do just the cap...and told me all this without even going up on the roof to look at it.
My roof is 40 degree pitch, 30 feet in the air at the peak.  Not a chance in hell you'd get me up there

 
Johnny Rock said:
You might want to still have a chimney sweep clean it even if you do the other work yourself. Lots of people never clean their chimney and it does create a legitimate risk if the fireplace has been used regularly for years and years. 
The chimney itself is good.  I had the refractory panels replaced in it a few years ago, and asked the guy to clean it then. 

I'd clean it if it needed it though.  Agree with @wilked - once you're up there, that part is easy.  I used to help my Dad clean our old woodstove chimney in the house I grew up in all the time.  That roof was super flat, and I can remember being up there with him when I was probably 9 or 10 - He'd run the brush, and I'd usually be at the clean-out shoveling out the creosote, then when we were done, I'd throw a dozen or so paper airplanes off the roof.  

 
wilked said:
My roof is 40 degree pitch, 30 feet in the air at the peak.  Not a chance in hell you'd get me up there
My pitch isn't far off from that.  The peak is probably 30 feet up to the ground, but the part that does help is that the side I go up from is right over the deck, so the gutters are only 10' or so off the ground.  It's a lot easier to manage getting up there.  The part that sucks is that there's no way I'm getting to the peak without a rope...and I don't mean a rope to stop me if I fall, I mean a rope that I'm literally using to pull myself up.  

A buddy of mine has a legit safety harness with safety stops and everything - I think when I go do the install, I may borrow it just for peace of mind.  

 

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