Osaurus
Footballguy
Maybe. Haven’t heard back as to how far out installation is, but I imagine it’s nothing like fabrication. The windows were done 3 months ahead of schedule
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Home-owners...What are your current projects? (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter wilked
- Start date
belljr
Footballguy
berndog
Footballguy
Nick Vermeil
Footballguy
Which manufacturer? I have close contacts in the window industry and they are generally 26 weeks out, up to 52 weeks for some products.
Osaurus
Footballguy
Window World. I guess only my triple slider patio doors are done now and the rest of the windows are slated for mid-May which is still about 6 weeks early.
Instinctive
Footballguy
Alrighty, I've got a few of these coming to conclusion lately. Here's the one fully done without outsourcing - the repair of a draining situation off our double gutter to the alley that the gas company ####ed up. Here is a little album of the project (forgot to do a normal before pic, but the first two are basically what it looked like, I hadn't dug anything yet).
Basically, what used to be a sound piece of ground that drained just fine for a year was dug up to get at the gas line, and then the gas company just tossed some dirt back into their multi-foot canyon and called it a day. From then on, every rain left us with an ever-increasing canyon because suddenly the downspouts would just erode right where the gas guys dug it up.
So the weather finally got nice enough for me to take a Saturday and get out there and solve the problem with a buried drain. Got the kit from French Drain Man, and it worked like a dream, with some modifications.
Basically, what used to be a sound piece of ground that drained just fine for a year was dug up to get at the gas line, and then the gas company just tossed some dirt back into their multi-foot canyon and called it a day. From then on, every rain left us with an ever-increasing canyon because suddenly the downspouts would just erode right where the gas guys dug it up.
So the weather finally got nice enough for me to take a Saturday and get out there and solve the problem with a buried drain. Got the kit from French Drain Man, and it worked like a dream, with some modifications.
Punxsutawney Phil
Footballguy
Nice job, nothing more satisfying than watching your new hard scaping project handle a downpour.Instinctive said:
STEADYMOBBIN 22
Footballguy
That seems astronomically high. Are these windows giant?
Some of these companies are so busy they just throw out F you quotes because they either don’t want to take the time to do a real estimate or they don’t actually want the work.
STEADYMOBBIN 22
Footballguy
That’s awesome!Instinctive said:
To anyone else doing this - if you’re not using gravel like he did and you’re covering those corrugated pipes with dirt- I highly recommend going with solid pvc drain pipes. The corrugated stuff is weak and can be punctured by roots and clog with dirt over time.
Birdie048
Footballguy
They are "normal size" but he only quoted us "Top Tier" quality and special coatings (12 layer Silver ion?).
We asked about lower grades and he pushed them off as not worth it... We are going different route.
Big Box store windows are $350 each + $120 install They wanted $995 per window + $670 install
Chadstroma
Footballguy
Our kitchen cabinets are out of date.
My guy who just did out basement and garage floors with epoxy and his parents company did our three season room indoor/outdoor carpet (wanted epoxy there too but when he pulled the old carpet up, he recommended against it because of how the slab was). They are just getting into doing this paint (not paint but I forget the name of it) for cabinets. We were chatting after he had finished the garage and it came up in conversation (he wasn't selling it) and basically he said that they would do it at cost for us as they are learning. If it was ANYONE other than him and the good work he has done (anything is slightly wrong, they fix- no problem, no hassel.... turning down the work in the 3 three season room etc) I would prob say no thanks. He did his parents and I guess we would be the second ones to go. Do the paint thing and new hardware should make a huge difference since the rest of the kitchen is good.
My guy who just did out basement and garage floors with epoxy and his parents company did our three season room indoor/outdoor carpet (wanted epoxy there too but when he pulled the old carpet up, he recommended against it because of how the slab was). They are just getting into doing this paint (not paint but I forget the name of it) for cabinets. We were chatting after he had finished the garage and it came up in conversation (he wasn't selling it) and basically he said that they would do it at cost for us as they are learning. If it was ANYONE other than him and the good work he has done (anything is slightly wrong, they fix- no problem, no hassel.... turning down the work in the 3 three season room etc) I would prob say no thanks. He did his parents and I guess we would be the second ones to go. Do the paint thing and new hardware should make a huge difference since the rest of the kitchen is good.
AAABatteries
Footballguy
Room is done and turned out great. Don’t think the room feels too cramped but even if it does it’s just the guest room. Planning on hanging a TV in the corner and will eventually move our treadmill in the on the 2nd mat.
Chadstroma
Footballguy
Maybe... it isn't a veneer, I would have remembered that. It was some other kind of paint or something but the process seems the same. They will take what they can out and do their thing off site but for the rest they will put the kitchen in a bubble and do sanding and then the paint but not paint stuff on. Then we will put new hardware on.
AAABatteries
Footballguy
Since we moved in, I've slowly been knocking out backyard projects - cutting down the growth in the back of the yard, to make it usable, put in a fire pit, put in a garden, cut down some trees, about to have 7 large pines cut down, killed about 14 snakes, installed some sun screens, had undecking installed, put up a large screen TV under the deck. Lots of work and the place looks great, especially compared with when we moved in.
So, for a while I've complained that the builder put the deck stairs down to the patio directly behind and the full length of the deck. I've told the wife numerous times I wanted to move them to one end. Finally decided to have a deck guy come out and look at it and give me suggestions and an estimate. 5k was the estimate so the wife denied my request
But, 5k was more than I was willing to pay too as the steps were still usable, although in somewhat rough shape.
So, my son and I decide - what the hell, we can do this. Watched several videos and decide to jump in. Now, I'm not the handiest guy in the world but I'm not a total dope either. But this project did and still does make me a tad nervous as I've not done something to this level.
Anyway, my 20 year old son jumped in with both feet and over the last week we've been working on it. Here's the thing though - after doing the demo of the old stairs I realize how crappy the builder did with them. Several shortcuts and things they did wrong. Buried the footers in the ground, used concrete nails for the deck joists and stringers (wtf!?) and basically had the footer in the ground. After I got all the material off the 6x6's I was able to just push them over (again, wtf). So, now I'm not only happy with the aesthetics (really opens up the underdecking to the yard and I can watch the TV from the fire pit!) but also realize I maybe had a dangerous situation on my hands with these tall stairs built shoddily.
https://imgur.com/a/C2tVDvS
Question for you guys. Now I'm nervous about the main deck structure. You can see the 4 - 6x6's supporting the deck. Should I look to reinforce those - if so, recommendation? I'm thinking I may need to consult a deck guy for this part - thoughts?
So, for a while I've complained that the builder put the deck stairs down to the patio directly behind and the full length of the deck. I've told the wife numerous times I wanted to move them to one end. Finally decided to have a deck guy come out and look at it and give me suggestions and an estimate. 5k was the estimate so the wife denied my request
But, 5k was more than I was willing to pay too as the steps were still usable, although in somewhat rough shape.So, my son and I decide - what the hell, we can do this. Watched several videos and decide to jump in. Now, I'm not the handiest guy in the world but I'm not a total dope either. But this project did and still does make me a tad nervous as I've not done something to this level.
Anyway, my 20 year old son jumped in with both feet and over the last week we've been working on it. Here's the thing though - after doing the demo of the old stairs I realize how crappy the builder did with them. Several shortcuts and things they did wrong. Buried the footers in the ground, used concrete nails for the deck joists and stringers (wtf!?) and basically had the footer in the ground. After I got all the material off the 6x6's I was able to just push them over (again, wtf). So, now I'm not only happy with the aesthetics (really opens up the underdecking to the yard and I can watch the TV from the fire pit!) but also realize I maybe had a dangerous situation on my hands with these tall stairs built shoddily.
https://imgur.com/a/C2tVDvS
Question for you guys. Now I'm nervous about the main deck structure. You can see the 4 - 6x6's supporting the deck. Should I look to reinforce those - if so, recommendation? I'm thinking I may need to consult a deck guy for this part - thoughts?
STEADYMOBBIN 22
Footballguy
At first glance I would think those stringers need some support. Here in Maryland you would for sure need another set of supports and beam a few feet away from the house.
I will show this to a builder friend of mine and see what he says. Framing is his background.
AAABatteries
Footballguy
Thanks - yeah, we discussed that and can easily add some 4x4 on concrete pad with metal brackets. I think that’s a good idea. If you can ask him about the 4 deck supports and if they should be reenforced if the pads were buried in the dirt.
STEADYMOBBIN 22
Footballguy
Builder guy hasn’t gotten back to me yet but got this response from one of my old carpenters:
“Sometimes when I want to strengthen stringers I will sister 5/8” or 3/4” to the existing stringer. I cut the plywood exactly like the existing stringer, and GRK fasten the plywood stringer to one side of each existing stringer.
If while walking up or down the new stairs and you feel it bounce, then it needs to be posted”
I asked him if noticed anything else that needed to be done and he replied:
“Not really more. The deck looks fine structurally.”
berndog
Footballguy
I’ve knocked out a few projects recently
I built a pergola and added another raised bed garden. The garden still needs a door and fencing but I did get it filled with a couple yards of soil.
I also removed a hanging light from the kitchen and added recessed lighting, patched the hole and painted the ceiling. It really modernized and brightened that area. I’ll pat myself on the back for my drywall patching as it blends perfectly.
I built a pergola and added another raised bed garden. The garden still needs a door and fencing but I did get it filled with a couple yards of soil.
I also removed a hanging light from the kitchen and added recessed lighting, patched the hole and painted the ceiling. It really modernized and brightened that area. I’ll pat myself on the back for my drywall patching as it blends perfectly.
Toby2ElectricBugaloo
Footballguy
Moved into my first single family home 18 months ago after a lifetime of apartments, condos and rowhouses, and am just now discovering that I actually love DIY. I blame my Jewish upbringing for making me assume otherwise. Been reading and absorbing all I can recently, and now I find this thread.
I've started some minor repairs around the house to get my feet wet, but after that I'm hoping to lay down turf on top of the back deck to make it more inviting for the kiddos, and then doing some sort of flagstone type seating area in the front yard to make it more inviting for me. Any advice or guidance for a newbie, either about the projects (i'm worried the turf will trap moisture and rot the deck) or more generally? Please be gentle.
I've started some minor repairs around the house to get my feet wet, but after that I'm hoping to lay down turf on top of the back deck to make it more inviting for the kiddos, and then doing some sort of flagstone type seating area in the front yard to make it more inviting for me. Any advice or guidance for a newbie, either about the projects (i'm worried the turf will trap moisture and rot the deck) or more generally? Please be gentle.
glvsav37
Footballguy
@Instinctive nice job.
I jsut want to echo what SM said about that flex pipe. But also add that those ridges tend to catch small twigs and stuff and get clogged up. I recently pulled up a deck that had those pipes under there for my downspouts and man...the #### that came out of them was unreral. Granted, it was 15 years of build up, but still it will happen. Just keep an eye on your exit flow. It looks like you have a nice straight run, so you could snake out the pipe every few seasons.
my other comment is on the downspouts, I prob would eventually get a Y shaped connector, or at least one that has 1 leg come in on an angle. That 90 degree could get clogged with debris like old leaves and such and just sit there. At least the Y or angled connect doesn't give it a place to rest. I know here in the NE, we get plenty of leaves, pine tree twigs and those F'ing pollen strings in my gutters come fall, and they can clog things up quick.
Drainage is such a PIA...I've been dealing with it for years at my house. I eventually had all my downspouts tied into one underground PVC system that all exit out to the street and sewer.
berndog
Footballguy
I don’t have any specific advice for those projects but I will say YouTube is your friend for home improvement.
You will get a great feeling of satisfaction after completing a project. It will certainly overpower the sweat, soreness and frustration you’re bound to experience along the way.
Toby2ElectricBugaloo
Footballguy
Thanks, GB. I know the last part is right because I've already done a couple projects for which thirty-something Toby would have needed a handyman.
Wingnut
Footballguy
Posted this in the garden thread, but it's a project, so I figured it could go here too, and maybe someone here has done this and might have some tips or experience.
Tired of watering the garden every day, and although rainy season here in FL is right around the corner, decided to try an automated watering system for our raised beds.
Decided to go cheap since it's my first attempt at this.
Bought THIS kit along with a faucet splitter, water hammer arrestor, and weatherproof timer.
Gonna hook it up this weekend, should be a fun project.
Tired of watering the garden every day, and although rainy season here in FL is right around the corner, decided to try an automated watering system for our raised beds.
Decided to go cheap since it's my first attempt at this.
Bought THIS kit along with a faucet splitter, water hammer arrestor, and weatherproof timer.
Gonna hook it up this weekend, should be a fun project.
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Nigel
Footballguy
We closed on a vacation house last week that we will be using part time as a rental property. There are two bedrooms upstairs, and an office downstairs we want to convert to a small bedroom but it does not have a door. Here is a pic of the office entrance
As you can see there is no header in the doorway, the opening is floor to ceiling. I'm thinking the easiest way to create privacy is to add a barn door like this one. I can't find any that would cover the floor-to-ceiling opening, so will need to add a header to the doorway. I'd like to do this in as minimally-invasive way as possible, without carving out much of the existing/painted dry wall. The header won't be load-bearing. Do I need to open up each side of the opening to insert jack studs for the header to sit on? Or can I simply "tack it in" to the existing studs? The hardware for the barn door will be secured on either side of the exiting opening, so the header itself will not be supporting the weight of the door.
Handyguys thoughts appreciated - I need to get this done pretty quickly.
As you can see there is no header in the doorway, the opening is floor to ceiling. I'm thinking the easiest way to create privacy is to add a barn door like this one. I can't find any that would cover the floor-to-ceiling opening, so will need to add a header to the doorway. I'd like to do this in as minimally-invasive way as possible, without carving out much of the existing/painted dry wall. The header won't be load-bearing. Do I need to open up each side of the opening to insert jack studs for the header to sit on? Or can I simply "tack it in" to the existing studs? The hardware for the barn door will be secured on either side of the exiting opening, so the header itself will not be supporting the weight of the door.
Handyguys thoughts appreciated - I need to get this done pretty quickly.
berndog
Footballguy
That’s a great looking space. I would recommend framing that in and hanging a conventional door I’ve never hung a barn door but have to believe the effort would be similar.
Nigel
Footballguy
Thanks for the response. My wife is gung-ho on the barn door, likes the way it looks, and I don't have a strong opinion so pretty sure we're going with that. I just want to get the header in the easiest way possible. Barn door itself shouldn't be too much work - find studs, bolt the rail on and hang it.
belljr
Footballguy
I would just frame a soffit box in that area. You could attach to the wall stud on each side or ceiling joists. Box it out. Bring the sheet rock level with existing wall. Tape. And paint the seams. You basically have 3 sides of new sheet rock. Easier said then done but that's what I would do
Eta: Actually they make ceiling mount floor to ceiling doors something like this os available pending your ceiling height
CCJH 9FT Ceiling Mount Bracket Sliding Barn Door Hardware Kit Black,Strong Bearing, Low Ceiling L-Shape Bracket System, Fit 54" Wide Single Door Panel (Basic Style) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B071X3TP3C/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_i_J4VJWH7KXQK4GPSRRB7N
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Nigel
Footballguy
The soffit box plan sounds good, will give that a go - thanks. I haven’t found any 95” high doors.
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STEADYMOBBIN 22
Footballguy
2x4's cut to frame it in and then drywall. As you said, the (false) header is just to hold drywall. Frame, it, drywall it, paint it, done.
belljr
Footballguy
The one you posted is 84"
I think a small gap would be fine or you could put a "decorative" beam in the gap that matches the door if you went with the ceiling mount
Nigel
Footballguy
Sorry, meant 95”The one you posted is 84"
I think a small gap would be fine or you could put a "decorative" beam in the gap that matches the door if you went with the ceiling mount
UOFI_316
Footballguy
If you are looking to go full height and just want to close off the top a little behind the track, just run a few 2x4 flat against the ceiling and drywall around those. If your joists are perpendicular to the opening you should be able to find 2 to screw up into. If your joists are parallel then i think a few heavy duty drywall toggle bolts should work fine.
Nigel
Footballguy
Good call but opening is 44” wide, which the more I look could also be a problem. Might have to get something custom made.
wilked
Footballguy
I would go conventional door, esp w renters. People don’t treat barn doors properly and track issues are not uncommon
Uruk-Hai
Footballguy
Question on hooking up a propane fire table:
I have a fire table. It comes with a regulator and short enough hose that'll work for a small propane tank that hides beneath the table. However, I have 2 each 100 gallon propane tanks that run my home generator and would like to direct-connect to an outlet for them about 12 feet away. I have another regulator/hose that'll get me there, but can't find a fitting from one hose to the other. The provided hose has the female end similar to this (the black connection), but my extension regulator has a male end that doesn't accept that - neither the pressure nozzle or the threads (it's too small for the female end to thread over [snicker]).
Do I need to completely replace the regulator that came with the table to a longer one? Or, is there a fitting that'll tie the two regulators together?
I have a fire table. It comes with a regulator and short enough hose that'll work for a small propane tank that hides beneath the table. However, I have 2 each 100 gallon propane tanks that run my home generator and would like to direct-connect to an outlet for them about 12 feet away. I have another regulator/hose that'll get me there, but can't find a fitting from one hose to the other. The provided hose has the female end similar to this (the black connection), but my extension regulator has a male end that doesn't accept that - neither the pressure nozzle or the threads (it's too small for the female end to thread over [snicker]).
Do I need to completely replace the regulator that came with the table to a longer one? Or, is there a fitting that'll tie the two regulators together?
UOFI_316
Footballguy
UOFI_316
Footballguy
Let's talk toilets. I don't need something that can flush 57 golfballs. I need something that can flush 7-10 full sized snickers bars with a clump of toilet paper. Tired of having to plunge an older toilet. Seems like it is every 4-6 days it stops up or gets a really slow flush. I have tried using a hand snake and nothing. I need a toilet with a turbo charged flush.
AAABatteries
Footballguy
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UOFI_316
Footballguy
Not me, I have trained my body to only go while at work, so I get paid to ####. It is my kids and wife, I am not sure if they also try and flush a barbie or something. The times i need to plunge it does not seem like something that should normally stop up a toilet but it happens way too often to let it go. When I change the toilet I plan on rodding the line to see if there is something getting stuck. A few years ago we lined from the cleanout to the street, and from the clean out to the house we replaced the line, so if there is a line issue it is within a very short distance.
ragincajun
Footballguy
Memorial Day Weekend ahh vacation…..
sike!
Dismantled a wooden swing set playhouse thing and basketball goal and hauled it to the dump, oh wait my Wife had me cut back a metric crap ton of limbs also before I pulled out. Finally on the road or so I thought…. Then she had me load up about 29 pavers to take to the dump as well.
Installed a pedestal sink.
Changed a toilet seat.
Put together a new flexible hose for a special project.
Washed Wife’s car
Mowed lawn
Scrubbed pool walls
sike!
Dismantled a wooden swing set playhouse thing and basketball goal and hauled it to the dump, oh wait my Wife had me cut back a metric crap ton of limbs also before I pulled out. Finally on the road or so I thought…. Then she had me load up about 29 pavers to take to the dump as well.
Installed a pedestal sink.
Changed a toilet seat.
Put together a new flexible hose for a special project.
Washed Wife’s car
Mowed lawn
Scrubbed pool walls
Sand
Footballguy
I got off easy. Replaced 8 boards on my deck - 16' pieces that were getting some rot. I dug out about 400,000 screws and got new boards in. Hours of fun. And it only cost me $21 a board.
On the good side I did find out that a Honda fit can transport 16' deck boards. Almost cost me the passenger side mirror. It was close.
