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Home-owners...What are your current projects? (2 Viewers)

Stompin' Tom Connors said:
Not a DIY project, but need to replace the shingles on our roof.

We knew this was an inevitability when we bought our house 5 years ago, as the roof was at the end of its lifecycle. When we bought, we ensured the roof came with a 5-yr certification (which doesn't mean too much in terms of liability/protection but at least gave us comfort that it wasn't an imminent issue).

Our roof isn't collapsing or even leaking, it just seems like the right time so that something disastrous doesn't occur.

My problem? Sticker shock.

I knew that replacing a roof is expensive, and likely more expensive as we are in the suburbs of a high cost of living city (Seattle), and at 3,300 sq ft, the house ain't small -- it ain't gigantic either, but the larger the house, the larger the roof, and the bigger the expense. I get that.

We've gone to at least 4 different companies who have all returned prices for re-shingling with asphalt/composite shingles in the type/brand the HOA approves that are all north of $30K.

That sounds absolutely outrageous to me, given that from what I've seen, it's a fairly straight forward job of a few days. Maybe it's because we finally built up an emergency fund that we'll now completely blow through that sticking in my craw. Certainly material used will affect price, and we're a little constrained here with HOA requirements. But I never expected to pay as much or more for a roof than I can for a brand new car.

Am I out of line here and is this par for the course?
Sounds like a lot but if its a strip & deck I could see that in a higher labor cost area. The thing is, don't put yourself under the gun with worries about "something disastrous" occurring.  Unless you have severely rotted decking, odds are any issues will manifest initially as small leaks and give you plenty of warning.  Just check up in the attic for signs of leaks on the joists and underside of the decking periodically.  You'll see it there before it makes it into the living spaces in most cases. The longer you can stretch it out, the better.  Who knows, maybe next year you get hit by a hail storm?  Further questions to gauge condition:

Are you seeing a lot of granules washing off during heavy rain?

Any missing shingles?

Any shingles with curled edges?

Any current leaks?

Is the surface flat or does it have waves in it?  Like decking sagging between the joists.

 
Is anyone up for giving me feedback on what to do with my backyard?   I bought a house two years ago that had a blank canvas for a back yard.  Only had a covered awning over a concrete slab, three trees and a patch of grass.    Video is below:  here are my thoughts or what I plan to do or have done so far.  Would love any other ideas.

  • I'm going to leave that initial narrow stretch next to house and just bring in some wood chips to create a path and then keep letting the roses and iris grow and add more native plants.
  • I'm contemplating putting in a planter box(es) where the bird feeder and disc golf basket are.  I'd like to have a two tier box with 2 cannabis plants being in the center and then surrounded by other vegetation complimentary to shade/sun on a surrounding lower tier.
  • I put in that section of extended brick in the ground next to the patio.  I'm happy with the patio and the container gardening.  Cat's name is Bruno.
  • I picked up a bunch of broken concrete free on craigslist when I was out of work 1.5 years ago and I haven't done anything with it yet.  I've moved it around the yard in hopes of building a retaining wall, but it hasn't materialized just yet.   
  • I'm digging a hole for a small pond and a waterfall or water feature.  I might be able to use the concrete blocks to build it, but need to piece the puzzle together.
https://youtu.be/BA8pjpukZwk
First thing I'd do is cut all of the low-hanging branches off of the existing trees, and the stuff spilling over the neighbor's fence on the left, to brighten/tidy things up a bit. I'd also plant a row of arborvitaes along the right where the fence is slatted/see-through to create a nice-looking privacy hedge.

The planter boxes sound like a good use of space but personally I would skip the water feature to preserve as much functional space as possible. I'd rather a fire pit with some space to sit around it, or just grass with some mulched areas with plants along the perimeter.

 
Spreading mulch isn't bad.  It's getting the old stuff up that sucks.  They don't take it in my area like normal curb side yard waste, sonits a pain to get rid of.  If you put new mulch on the old stuff it becomes too thick.
Organic mulch breaks down pretty good in the heat here, thankfully. 

 
  • I'm going to leave that initial narrow stretch next to house and just bring in some wood chips to create a path and then keep letting the roses and iris grow and add more native plants
brohan on that stretch along the side of the house why do a path at all it doesnt look like it connects to anywhere why not just create some positive drainage away from your house sod that area and get some grass in and do some nice plantings along the fence line just create a nice little green space there woodchips are neat in planters where you can keep them contained but paths just get all over hell and are hard to keep in place in my opinion a nice grass area with some flowering plants would be easy to maintain and look better but that is just me spitballin and i am not trying to shoot you down you do your thing and take it to the bank brochacho

 
I'm contemplating putting in a planter box(es) where the bird feeder and disc golf basket are.  I'd like to have a two tier box with 2 cannabis plants being in the center and then surrounded by other vegetation complimentary to shade/sun on a surrounding lower tier.
when you are coming out of the strip next to the house it looks like there is an existing planted area that is generally around the taller tree and has the grassy plants in it id use those concrete blocks over in the corner to make a nice retaining wall around it, weed it, woodchips in there around the plants and have a nice defined and good looking planter area with a small walkway past your sitting area as for planter boxes they are super easy to make and if you do them out of cedar and stain them they can last forever so im down with that brohan but id would probalby go tomatos instead of the wacky weed because me i like me some tomaters take that to the bank bromigo

 
  • I'm digging a hole for a small pond and a waterfall or water feature.  I might be able to use the concrete blocks to build it, but need to piece the puzzle together.
water features are neat for the first three of four months and then you will hate cleaning them they just look crummy and they sit there without water and a broken pump and how are you going to run power out there anyhow i say bag it and just sod that back area and get it green and have a nice place to throw your frisbees around or possibly even play jarts that my friend is the high life take that to the bank bromigos 

 
Does that Celect composite require painting? Can it be painted if you want to change the color of your house?
It does not need painting, and I am unsure if it can be painted.  I'd imagine it would be like thick vinyl siding.  I am waiting to see a physical sample of the Celect to make a decision, and I was wondering if anyone had used this before.

 
brohan on that stretch along the side of the house why do a path at all it doesnt look like it connects to anywhere why not just create some positive drainage away from your house sod that area and get some grass in and do some nice plantings along the fence line just create a nice little green space there woodchips are neat in planters where you can keep them contained but paths just get all over hell and are hard to keep in place in my opinion a nice grass area with some flowering plants would be easy to maintain and look better but that is just me spitballin and i am not trying to shoot you down you do your thing and take it to the bank brochacho
I already have drainage under ground from my downspouts.  

And the fence is actually a gate so you can enter from the front of the house.

 
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water features are neat for the first three of four months and then you will hate cleaning them they just look crummy and they sit there without water and a broken pump and how are you going to run power out there anyhow i say bag it and just sod that back area and get it green and have a nice place to throw your frisbees around or possibly even play jarts that my friend is the high life take that to the bank bromigos 
that area won't grow grass most of the year under that big douglas fir brohans.

 
water features are neat for the first three of four months and then you will hate cleaning them they just look crummy and they sit there without water and a broken pump and how are you going to run power out there anyhow i say bag it and just sod that back area and get it green and have a nice place to throw your frisbees around or possibly even play jarts that my friend is the high life take that to the bank bromigos 
That's begging to be a fire pit.

 
  • Thanks
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Spreading mulch isn't bad.  It's getting the old stuff up that sucks.  They don't take it in my area like normal curb side yard waste, sonits a pain to get rid of.  If you put new mulch on the old stuff it becomes too thick.
I put new stuff on top of the old every year.  

 
I paid like 12k for +/_ 2000sqft (i also had a flat roof overhang over porch).   This was in FL, so 30k seems about right for 3300sqft in Seattle.  Did they give you options on the underlayment?  That & warranty are the up sells.  I hate to say this but you guys should have done better due diligence when realizing you only had 5yrs left on the roof.   Are there any little dents?  Maybe you can file a claim for hail damage?  
First off, appreciate all the insight from all of you -- truly love that about this board and this particular thread in terms of insight, info, tips, etc. You guys are unerringly fantastic, as always.

Not sure due-diligence is a factor here -- we knew very well the roof was at the end of its lifecycle. We had two roof inspections done (in addition to the general inspection), and got a certificate from one company, at seller's expense, for that company to handle repairs for its 5 year term. The house is in a development built around 93, and all houses had past-prime roofs. In a seller's market, sellers had a luxury of passing the cost of repair to new owners. We knew this was going to be an eventual expense, and went in eyes wide open as we believed the house would appreciate (and it has, +$350K in the last 5 yrs), and we were able to negotiate the purchase price down by ~$10K too. 

We knew we'd have to suck up the cost eventually, but having never replaced a roof, the overall price was surprising. Given the costs you and others got, what we were quoted seems in the range per sq. ft.

What you say about warranty and underlayment as upsells is interesting -- unfortunately we are a little constrained as the kinds of material/brands approved require specific uderlayment to go with the brands (CertainTeed Presidential) in order to obtain the warranty (50 yrs, with most companies offering a 25 yr workmanship warranty). 

But if there are other areas of negotiation/cost savings based on avoiding unnecessary upsell, am all ears!

That's a huge roof dude. Think I paid half years ago for 1300 sq ft roof
I guess it is, was just going off posted 2016 census data that average sq. foot house in the US was 2,687.

Sounds like a lot but if its a strip & deck I could see that in a higher labor cost area. The thing is, don't put yourself under the gun with worries about "something disastrous" occurring.  Unless you have severely rotted decking, odds are any issues will manifest initially as small leaks and give you plenty of warning.  Just check up in the attic for signs of leaks on the joists and underside of the decking periodically.  You'll see it there before it makes it into the living spaces in most cases. The longer you can stretch it out, the better.  Who knows, maybe next year you get hit by a hail storm?  Further questions to gauge condition:

Are you seeing a lot of granules washing off during heavy rain?

Any missing shingles?

Any shingles with curled edges?

Any current leaks?

Is the surface flat or does it have waves in it?  Like decking sagging between the joists.
Great advice.

While there is no signs of active leaks in attic or elsewhere, will look more closely at joists/decking. Current roof is a shake shingle, so it's hard to gauge curling/waves or for me to tell what's a sign of danger given condition as opposed to 25 years of old wear. One area of concern I have is that our gutters definitely have drainage issues, and we'll likely get them replaced at the same time -- there is no flooding or dampness in our crawlspace (which is well-ventilated) but there tend to be pools of water that form in heavier downpours at ground level where the water should be draining.

Again, thanks all!

 
Don’t forget to account for  possible damaged boards as well.  When they tear off the old roof, there’s a possibility some to many will need to be replaced. If you can identify areas that are soft, you might be able to estimate the number of boards.  Those go for around $60 installed.  Most contractors will throw in the first few as part of the estimate.  I had two for my estimate and needed 6. It wasn’t all that more expensive, but I had little to no damage. Hopefully you won’t either.  

ETA: Anyone who tells you that they’ll take your gutters down and they’ll go back up exactly the same way is lying. I specifically picked a roofer bc all they would do is loosen up the clips in order to put the drip edge behind them and tighten them back up.  Maybe you need gutter work so this might not be so important to you.

 
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I own a house built in 1880, and have a couple of questions:

The ceiling is 8 foot in the living room with an attic above thats about 7 foot tall. How much would it cost to raise the ceiling into the attic? Is that something easily done or would I need to get engineers and all that? Or would it be better to just take out the ceiling? No HVAC in the way and 2 lights are in the ceiling. 

Secondly no insulation in the house. What would be my options/cost to add?

Im clueless about all this and Im sure more details would be needed, but wondering ballpark figures to do all this. 

 
I own a house built in 1880, and have a couple of questions:

The ceiling is 8 foot in the living room with an attic above thats about 7 foot tall. How much would it cost to raise the ceiling into the attic? Is that something easily done or would I need to get engineers and all that? Or would it be better to just take out the ceiling? No HVAC in the way and 2 lights are in the ceiling. 

Secondly no insulation in the house. What would be my options/cost to add?

Im clueless about all this and Im sure more details would be needed, but wondering ballpark figures to do all this. 
Without going into a lot of detail, raising the ceiling would be a large significant project with architect / engineer. 

Insulation, typically blown in insulation is used for the walls and if you have an attic you have a few options there. What state? 

 
Without going into a lot of detail, raising the ceiling would be a large significant project with architect / engineer. 

Insulation, typically blown in insulation is used for the walls and if you have an attic you have a few options there. What state? 
Virginia

 
Just finished extending a small front concrete patio with stones.  Hard labor to do it right, but happy with the results. 

 
First, you probably have more pots and pans than you need.  Most people do.  Figure out what you truly need

Without being there I couldn't possibly offer any help tho.  Need to really visualize it
This sounds like great advice. We have this. We do cook a lot. I think the small pan and the medium pot can probably go away though. 

Yeah makes sense on the visualizing. 

 
It will likely get bid as a one-day job for two people. So probably $500-$750 assuming the stair area is not super complicated. That will take the most time. Plus materials.
Ok got a few estimates. One day job. $1050 which includes material and labor.

 
Next two problems with new house are plumbing issues:

1. One of the showers not getting hot water. I tried taking off single lever myself and could not resolve it. Anti-scald device was fine. Finally called my plumber and he said it needs a new cartridge.

2. When I got inspection, inspector said washing machine is not connected to drain to sewer. The house used to be septic. So the water just drains outside the house (a ton of water). The plumber was shocked that this guy never got complaints from his neighbor for years. Anyway, my plumber said he can connect washing machine to a vent line but technically it is illegal. I have no choice though.

Kind of worried about the cost for these.

 
Next two problems with new house are plumbing issues:

1. One of the showers not getting hot water. I tried taking off single lever myself and could not resolve it. Anti-scald device was fine. Finally called my plumber and he said it needs a new cartridge.

2. When I got inspection, inspector said washing machine is not connected to drain to sewer. The house used to be septic. So the water just drains outside the house (a ton of water). The plumber was shocked that this guy never got complaints from his neighbor for years. Anyway, my plumber said he can connect washing machine to a vent line but technically it is illegal. I have no choice though.

Kind of worried about the cost for these.
For number one, just buy a new faucet and install yourself. You’ll be out 200 at most 

for second, again, easy job for a plumber. Where is laundry machine? How close to an existing drain line? Mine is in basement and tying into drain is very easy 

 
For number one, just buy a new faucet and install yourself. You’ll be out 200 at most 

for second, again, easy job for a plumber. Where is laundry machine? How close to an existing drain line? Mine is in basement and tying into drain is very easy 
For #1, he could also just buy a new valve cartridge and install it himself.  We had 2 Moentrol shower valves that went bad.  Super easy fix.  Cost maybe $20 in parts.  Hardest part is cross-referencing the model numbers to figure out what valve to buy.

 
I bought these the other day and they are pretty cool.  I initially got 4 but ordered two more.  I was surprised how much they lit up the yard, and the flame is a nice touch.

TomCare Solar Lights Upgraded, Waterproof Flickering Flames Torches Lights Outdoor Solar Spotlights Landscape Decoration Lighting Dusk to Dawn Auto On/Off Security Torch Light for Patio Driveway (4) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B071FFJFWH/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_KCO9CbHZ5PXPY

 
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This is the third summer I've been in my house. I haven't touched the flower beds with additional topsoil, mulch, or compost. My perennials have no problem coming up, especially this year with all the rain my area has had. Should I add topsoil then mulch over or just mulch or just let it be.

I have 14 arborvitae's that I did not trim this year... did last year... some are more in the shade than others with rocks beneath them right not although the rocks are sparse. I could add more or add mulch instead? I've thought about taking out the rocks and while that is a pain, then I will have rocks to do something with.

What to do?

 
First off, appreciate all the insight from all of you -- truly love that about this board and this particular thread in terms of insight, info, tips, etc. You guys are unerringly fantastic, as always.

Great advice.

While there is no signs of active leaks in attic or elsewhere, will look more closely at joists/decking. Current roof is a shake shingle, so it's hard to gauge curling/waves or for me to tell what's a sign of danger given condition as opposed to 25 years of old wear. One area of concern I have is that our gutters definitely have drainage issues, and we'll likely get them replaced at the same time -- there is no flooding or dampness in our crawlspace (which is well-ventilated) but there tend to be pools of water that form in heavier downpours at ground level where the water should be draining.

Again, thanks all!
An additional thought. 

If any trim work needs to be done, this might be a good time to go to composite trim as opposed to wood. 

 
Anyone paint counter tops and how long does the paint last?

I ask because I painted my kitchen a couple months ago and am just pondering.

 
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Anyone paint counter tops and how long does the paint last?

I ask because I painted my kitchen a couple months ago and am just pondering.
We did this in a bathroom in an old house only because we were moving in the near future and didn’t want to replace it. I do not recommend. 

 
Sounds like a really bad idea, but that is just opinion. 


We did this in a bathroom in an old house only because we were moving in the near future and didn’t want to replace it. I do not recommend. 
Watching some videos about it, it looks like it takes many layers of materials to do properly. By the time the materials are bought, set up, cleaned up, and ready to go, it'd be easier to buy new countertops. Yikes.

 
So bought a tiller to level the ground for the pool.  Throttle cable snaps 30 minutes in.  Fix that then the rain starts now just have a big mud pit that isn't drying out.  Although the kids wanna play in the mud pit, so maybe I can convince wifey to give away the pool.
So got the pool in here to hoping it's level.  https://i.imgur.com/bYIgJoj.jpg.
i am not trying to be an alarmist but one of those walls looks just a little tiny bit out of plumb take that to the bank brohan 

 
So the plumber I called said as a licensed plumber he cannot cut into a air vent line to connect to my washing machine. He suggested trying another plumber. WTF

 
For number one, just buy a new faucet and install yourself. You’ll be out 200 at most 

for second, again, easy job for a plumber. Where is laundry machine? How close to an existing drain line? Mine is in basement and tying into drain is very easy 
There is no existing drain line in the laundry room. Only an air vent line.

 
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