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Fun fact that came up on one of my projects. Fire rated wall assemblies have not been tested with the expanding foam from a can to fill small gaps, they have only been tested with the larger 2 part spray insulation products where every bay is filled. The architect got a call from the GC saying that the local inspector must have just been to a seminar, cause he was claiming that all the spray foam around the windows and doors was not fire rated, and therefore needed to be removed. Architect dug into it some and the inspector is correct, there is no UL rating for using normal can foam "Great Stuff" to fill the small gaps. I have not heard back on what the solution was to keep the inspector happy. Obviously not why you don't like the product, just an interesting bit of info.
If you want to nail you can also notch out half the depth of the 4x4 at the angle of the rafter so the far sides end up flush, then you could nail/screw since you would only be going through 1-1/2" of material on each member.
I have tried the pre-emergent. Not only is it pricey, but I didn't notice much difference.
I was at wits end with the weeds. Thought to myself, How does a golf course do it? They can't be buying bags and bags of Scotts granular.
I've mentioned this before a few times in the lawn care thread, but this stuff is the absolute best when it comes to killing crabgrass. Its a postemergent so you can either just blanket the entire lawn if you have a lot of it or spot spray which is what I do. I've stopped putting down pre-emerg and use this exclusively for crabgrass. I've also had very good results with killing clover (sorry berndog :( ). Buyer beware, make sure what you have is actually crabgrass. I made the mistake of mistaking dallisgrass for crabgrass which drive will not kill.
Whoa that looks legit! I have heard that the truegreen companies don't spray for crab grass.
Best herbicide I've used and I've used a lot. You unfortunately have to buy a lot but you'll have it for years. Stuff is great b/c it kills in a few days so even if you miss some, you can just do another round of spot spraying a week later. Another weed that might be misidentified as crabgrass (which drive doesn't kill) is goosegrass so just keep that in mind.
I'm just talking about Scotts with Halts. $60 or so for a large bag. Works wonders.
I'd like to build a dual use shed / bar for the backyard. Load it up with the outdoor furniture and lawn equipment in the winter and then bring all that stuff out and convert into a bar / entertainment area in the summer. My kids hit 14 and 12 and their swingset has fallen into disrepair so I started demo today. I had put it up in a nice back corner of our yard that I had leveled and planted some trees around it that have grown for some nice shade. I'd like to use that space for the shed / bar and an outdoor entertainment area. Thinking of a shed design but one or two sides can open up into a bar top and seating. Can set up a picnic table or two or put some posts in the ground for a long hightop and benches. My inspiration is the Tap Shack at Coastal Cravings in OBX but smaller. (Front Pic)
wait, ... there's a lawn care thread?
I want to see what you come up with. I've got a Pro John Deere Z-Turn and I've been wanting to mount a sprayer on the back for years. I've just never found an option that I can DIY or that justifies the price. I wish I could just find a big "cupholder" that would mount a 3-5gallon sprayer.
Yeah, I'm curious as to how I'm gonna do it as well ... Lol.
Are you going to send power to it? Water? I think I’d at least do power, and if you’re going to dog the trench for power I’d consider adding water in there.
Yeah - when I was first looking, I was trying to use my neighbor's ATV mount tank as a model and envisioned it mounting to the anti-roll bar on the back, above the engine of my Z-turn...Weight was 100% the issue. I noticed that every single after-market was mounted out off the front castor wheels. I think the weight distribution is the reason why. I can already pop a wheelie if I put my mower in full reverse and slam it to full-forward. With 120lbs+ of liquid also in the back, and mounted higher than the engine, I think it's a major concern.
Not correct. I had been with TruGreen for about 15 years before stopping this year due to money worries with Covid.
Definitely power, probably water. I'm in PA. Good point about the openings. I'm not as concerned about the door design but the swing up openings for the bar area will probably be interesting. Need something easy enough to move and open and get out of the way but heavy enough for wind / rain / critters.wilked said:
Directions say to "strap it to the cargo rack on the back of your ATV". So, not really designed for a lawn tractor. But I knew that going in.
Seems ok to me so long as the garden is not next to the foundation
I want to understand this too. I see it used all the time and seems to be the preferred method. That said, there's a process to it. You can't spray it in and begin to enclose it immediately. You need to let it expand for a period of time (an hour or so) and cut the excess away. If you don't it can expand and screw things up. Perhaps that's what he's talking about?
Garden is along the side of the house, and yes we freeze. Whatever I come up with I will construct in a way that I can remove the garden portion come fall. My thinking is to somehow split the outlet from the sump so only a portion is directed to the garden so I don't end up over watering it.
I think a simple "Y" with ball valves at each outlet would work fine. Some portion goes up the storm drain system, and some gets diverted to water the garden. I'm sure someone does this with a rain barrel system already.
My deck is Azek (same as Trex?) ... I've pressure washed with no issues.
I use whatever my gas powered craftsman will give me. Mine does not have a dial for psi ... and I don't remember the tip.
Do they make ball valves for the 1-1/2" pipe the sump outlets with? I have never looked for ones that large.
I do not think the water that gets to the sump/drain tile is surface water. There have been summers where we have been dry for weeks and the sump will still run a few times a day (pre garden with no grass watering or other sources of water around the house), I think we have the only full depth basement on the block and my guess is there is an underground "stream" or the sump is just dipping into the water table. The amount of water that I would be diverting to the garden would not be the entire outlet of the sump, and no more than in years past when I just used a timer to run a soaker hose inside the garden.wilked said:
Be careful....some of those crabgrass killers will destroy St Augustine too....I learned that the hard way. The one from Bayer seems to work pretty well though.
yes, ball valves readily available at that size. This PVC, black pipe, something else?
Is that one of those center-chute bagging Deere with the hard-shell bags? I had one of those that I got from my parents for a hot minute when we first moved into our current house. I LOVED that it didn't shoot grass everywhere and had two clean edges to cut with, right or left...but....I HATED how often that dang chute would clog with thick or damp grass. It was also way too small for my 2.5 acres. Took me 4 hours to cut the grass.
Yup.
I did this in my previous house. Only it was a combo "storage" and "fort" for the kids.
