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Lawn Care Tips (1 Viewer)

Random said:
fsufan said:
Got tired of moving the water sprinkler around so I decided to put in a irrigation system. should be in by the end of the week
How much did this cost? Is there a way kit or something for those that wish to take the diy approach?
My neighbor was going to do this. He uploaded all his dimensions of his yard to a web page (I think it was Hunter or Rainbird) and it spit out a schematic to him of what kind of heads he'd need where....also gave him an inventory list of all the other materials he'd need (piping, ditchwitch etc)
 
Yep, just wondering if most people used the Scotts (or whatever, I prefer Vigoro) each Fall.
I've only used winterizer once and that was up in OH, not here in SC. It absolutely greened the grass right up in the spring, first house to be green on the block. Here's my plan this year since I noticed this last year. Put down Scott's halts w/fertilizer about 2 weeks ago, another month or so hit it with weed and feed to kill the leafy stuff then come back with a light dose of halts w/fertilizer again in mid to late summer. The freaking crab grass at my place comes back twice. Spring application does a nice job but by August last year it was coming back again.I like the idea of laying it down in the winter tho, let me know how that works out.
over seeding the lawndiscuss
I really need to overseed my lawn bad. I planted a lot of new late last year and the spots where I put it down is coming in nice but the rest of the hay field looks like hell. Too late to do it this year, maybe late fall if I don't lay down the pre-emergent in the winter.
Have you checked out the Organic Plant Health by Food Lion? That's the route I am going this year. About the same amount as the Scotts treatments, but you are applying stuff each month. Last month I applied pre-emergent, this month soil amendments, next month another round of pre-emergent etc. No fert until May (if I remember correctly). They're really helpful...will give you a calender and everything.
At Food Lion??
 
Thoughts on electric mowers / weedeaters? Under half an acre of total grass cutting. Do they last? Are they powerful enough? Etc....

 
Yep, just wondering if most people used the Scotts (or whatever, I prefer Vigoro) each Fall.
I've only used winterizer once and that was up in OH, not here in SC. It absolutely greened the grass right up in the spring, first house to be green on the block. Here's my plan this year since I noticed this last year. Put down Scott's halts w/fertilizer about 2 weeks ago, another month or so hit it with weed and feed to kill the leafy stuff then come back with a light dose of halts w/fertilizer again in mid to late summer. The freaking crab grass at my place comes back twice. Spring application does a nice job but by August last year it was coming back again.I like the idea of laying it down in the winter tho, let me know how that works out.
over seeding the lawndiscuss
I really need to overseed my lawn bad. I planted a lot of new late last year and the spots where I put it down is coming in nice but the rest of the hay field looks like hell. Too late to do it this year, maybe late fall if I don't lay down the pre-emergent in the winter.
Have you checked out the Organic Plant Health by Food Lion? That's the route I am going this year. About the same amount as the Scotts treatments, but you are applying stuff each month. Last month I applied pre-emergent, this month soil amendments, next month another round of pre-emergent etc. No fert until May (if I remember correctly). They're really helpful...will give you a calender and everything.
At Food Lion??
BY Food Lion ;)That's how we roll here in FM. Weed & Feed + Groceries = one stop shopping :tinfoilhat:
 
Have you checked out the Organic Plant Health by Food Lion? That's the route I am going this year. About the same amount as the Scotts treatments, but you are applying stuff each month. Last month I applied pre-emergent, this month soil amendments, next month another round of pre-emergent etc. No fert until May (if I remember correctly). They're really helpful...will give you a calender and everything.
At Food Lion??
BY Food Lion ;)That's how we roll here in FM. Weed & Feed + Groceries = one stop shopping :tinfoilhat:
That would explain a lot of your posts.....
 
Have you checked out the Organic Plant Health by Food Lion? That's the route I am going this year. About the same amount as the Scotts treatments, but you are applying stuff each month. Last month I applied pre-emergent, this month soil amendments, next month another round of pre-emergent etc. No fert until May (if I remember correctly). They're really helpful...will give you a calender and everything.
At Food Lion??
BY Food Lion :lol:That's how we roll here in FM. Weed & Feed + Groceries = one stop shopping :tinfoilhat:
That would explain a lot of your posts.....
;)
 
The Commish said:
ConstruxBoy said:
The Commish said:
ConstruxBoy said:
The Commish said:
Have you checked out the Organic Plant Health by Food Lion? That's the route I am going this year. About the same amount as the Scotts treatments, but you are applying stuff each month. Last month I applied pre-emergent, this month soil amendments, next month another round of pre-emergent etc. No fert until May (if I remember correctly). They're really helpful...will give you a calender and everything.
At Food Lion??
BY Food Lion ;)That's how we roll here in FM. Weed & Feed + Groceries = one stop shopping :goodposting:
That would explain a lot of your posts.....
:shrug:
:lol:
 
OK, I'll take my turn at the help desk and throw out this scenario:Southern California, USDA zone 9, High Clay content soil, Hybrid Tall Fescue lawn in 4th year cut at 2.75 inches.Issues:Overall Health - My lawn looks worse now than it did two years ago. It's thinning, takes lots of water not to wilt, and it's natural green (pre fertilizer) isn't as dark as it used to be.Clay Soil - When prepping for grass, amended soil with gypsum per local landscape supply. I have since broadcast applied (50lbs/5000 sqft) once a year in fall. I don't think its working as evidenced by Health of Lawn (see above), water run-off, and hard feel of ground. Suggestions for treatment?Lumpy/Uneven - When I prep'd for the sod, I had the soil leveled to a frigg'en T! Now the back yard is full of ankle twisting lumps and the front yard has several low, "sunk-in" spots. How do I fix this?Fertilizing - I typically hit the grass with a weed-n-feed in the spring, straight fertilizer twice over summer, then a "winterizer" in the fall. I changed gears after I noticed the weed-n-feed seemed to harm the grass and have been skipping it. Last year instead of using a Scott's ect fertilizer, I went with straight ammonium sulfate (carefully applied to prevent burns) and it greened my grass like never before. What do you think? Thoughts on adding Iron or using a 16-16-16 fertilizer blend?Watering - I constantly read about over-watering, but the fact is, if I don't water twice a day (forget the total inches of water at the moment), my grass doesn't hold up. Of course if I go too much I suffer from mushrooms (and the bill). I suspect the clay is at fault here. Suggestions?OK, that's enough for now - I know its long, but I appreciate any help you can provide!
Double check your irrigation system. Are your sprinklers throwing out uniformly? Do the sprinklers turn the same speed or throw the same amount of water (clogged nozzles)? In clay soils, you will have to set your timer for more starts and less time/start. Keep up with the gypsum applications in fact, increase it to 100lbs/5000 sf. It's cheap and will eventually break down the clay and give it more pore space. Tall Fescue is an OK grass in SoCal but I would also interseed with Kentucky Bluegrass. Do this asap. If you want to get rid of the high/low spots you should start to lower the height of cut gradually to 1.5" then: 1-aerate (no cores) 2-add gypsum 3-add seed (50lbs/5000sf) 4-topdress entire lawn with sand and mulch 5-apply a starter fertilizer (16-16-16 will work) and then keep it moist. When you get germination (7-14 days) reduce the water and resume cutting at 2.75". Hit it again with the starter fertilizer. You may have to repeat this process again in the fall and again next spring (PITA, I know) but this should work for you. HTH!
 
ragincajun said:
Thoughts on electric mowers / weedeaters? Under half an acre of total grass cutting. Do they last? Are they powerful enough? Etc....
Just bought an electric Toro string trimmer last year. Hauling the cord around is a pain in the ###, but I was tired of problems with the gas models. Electric is strong enough. It's the rechargeable cordless ones you want to stay away from.
 
gmbacm said:
shuke said:
4 - embrace the clover. green and takes little maintenance/water.
I hope this is shtick.
some clover is actually good for your lawn. Nothing wrong with it - unless you are anal about your lawn's look.
Explain how clover is good? And how do you only have "some"? Do you control its spread? Of course I'm anal about my lawn.
-excellent at "harvesting" nitrogen and providing it to your lawn resulting in less fertilizer needed-works well at choking out many weeds-relatively pest free resulting in fewer chemicals needed-stays a healthy green through most conditions-requires much less water-requires virtually no fertilizer or maintenance-grows in much harsher conditions then most grass-doesn't need to be mowed as often as grass-soft and safe for kids to play onI do only have "some". I dont do anything to get rid of it or to promote it, there are various patches throughout my yard but it certainly doesn't take over my yard - although I dont think Id mind if it did. Personally - Im looking for a lawn that is green, requires as little maintenance and chemicals as possible and is safe and soft for kids to play on. Clover helps in all these cases. Whats not to like?Only nuisance I could see is the flowers if you let it get big enough, or increased risk of being stung from honey bees going for the flowers.
 
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-stays a healthy green through most conditions

-requires much less water

-requires virtually no fertilizer or maintenance

-grows in much harsher conditions then most grass

-doesn't need to be mowed as often as grass
:lmao: Because it's a weed.
 
-stays a healthy green through most conditions

-requires much less water

-requires virtually no fertilizer or maintenance

-grows in much harsher conditions then most grass

-doesn't need to be mowed as often as grass
:bow: Because it's a weed.
:confused: you asked. no comment on the points you edited out?

Clover isn't a weed for many people for the reasons I stated. Historically it has always been a welcome part of a healthy lawn and included in lawn seed mixtures.

 
-stays a healthy green through most conditions

-requires much less water

-requires virtually no fertilizer or maintenance

-grows in much harsher conditions then most grass

-doesn't need to be mowed as often as grass
:lmao: Because it's a weed.
:confused: you asked. no comment on the points you edited out?

Clover isn't a weed for many people for the reasons I stated. Historically it has always been a welcome part of a healthy lawn and included in lawn seed mixtures.
As long as it's in moderation, I like clover. :bow:
 
Started lovin the milorganite late last year. No burn or streaks and I applied it between normal fertilizing.

Also another vote for hating clover. I weed be gone'd the hell out of it. Took a few passings, but it is gone now and grass is there and its plenty green!

 
First off, thanks for the answers to my question, I've done some more reading and think I will try to start an organic program for the lawn.Does anybody here do this?Seems like it's actually the easiest route. Just spread some compost on the lawn in Spring if your soil needs help; mow high, mulch, and water deep throughout the summer; then use an organic fertilizer in the fall. My lawn is seems pretty hard/compacted (it's a 50+ year old neighborhood), so I'll probably also aerate in the fall.
Been doing the organic approach for a few years now (south TX) with pretty good results ... like you said, it's pretty easy to maintain.Key ingredient for my St. Augustine grass here in TX is an application of Corn Gluten Meal (CGM) in both the early spring and early fall. CGM is a natural fertilizer and doubles as a pre-emergent. Last couple years I've hit the lawn 2x a year with 15-20lb/1000sqft CGM, mow it high (mulch), water deep once a week from May-October ... its been the greenest summer lawn on the block with minimal weeds. I still get a fair amount of early spring / late fall weeds, but once the growing season hits they are quickly crowded out by the grass.My lawn was also pretty compacted, and I aerated + lava sand to get it worked up a bit. Think I added some dry molassess as well to help the 'good' bugs stay active, but that was more of an experiment I read about. Didn't make a noticeable difference.The website that helped me learn a ton was www.dirtdoctor.com ... it may be more local to TX, but I think folks from all over are in the forum, etc.
I've read a lot about CGM and although it sounds great, it is apparently hard as hell to find. None at my local Home Depot or Lowe's. Plus I need to seed some areas of my lawn and CGM is apparently also effective at stopping grass seedlings from going. So I'll actually skip that and my spring program will be to hand weed (leaving the clover), aerate, seede, and then topdres with compost. Of course all this after the forsythia bloom around here. If I can find CGM, I'll fertilize with it in the fall. If not, I'll use another organic fertilizer.
 
-stays a healthy green through most conditions

-requires much less water

-requires virtually no fertilizer or maintenance

-grows in much harsher conditions then most grass

-doesn't need to be mowed as often as grass
:lmao: Because it's a weed.
:lmao: you asked. no comment on the points you edited out?

Clover isn't a weed for many people for the reasons I stated. Historically it has always been a welcome part of a healthy lawn and included in lawn seed mixtures.
As long as it's in moderation, I like clover. :shrug:
:eek: 'Weed' is a relative term. Grass is a weed when it's growing in your flower garden or in the cracks in the driveway. Lots of the organic lawn care websites I've read indicate that clover is beneficial for its nitrogen fixing properties, which help increase soil health, which in turn helps grass grow as well.

But if you want a lawn that is 100% grass, then yeah, despite all its positives, clover is a weed.

 
Did a pre-emergent back in December, but it didn't seem to work as there are weeds everywhere. Just put down the Vigoro Early Spring Crabgrass fert this weekend, but that only works pre-emergent for the crabgrass. Any suggestions to get rid of the other weeds now that they are around?
We have similar problems, I have that damn wild creeper grass crap in my back yard and it doesn't come in until after May usually so about 3/4's of my backyard is nothing but weeds. I don't think there is much I can do about it this year but I'm thinking of trying to kill all that junk late fall and overseeding heavy with the hopes spring will bring a lawn. I hate those ####### weeds.
BY Food Lion ;)That's how we roll here in FM. Weed & Feed + Groceries = one stop shopping :coffee:
Represent :shrug: :fistbump:
 
Thoughts on electric mowers / weedeaters? Under half an acre of total grass cutting. Do they last? Are they powerful enough? Etc....
Just bought an electric Toro string trimmer last year. Hauling the cord around is a pain in the ###, but I was tired of problems with the gas models. Electric is strong enough. It's the rechargeable cordless ones you want to stay away from.
I've had the rechargeable one for 5+ years. It kicks ###. I trim around the house, mailbox, electrical box, and swing set with no issues.
 
Started lovin the milorganite late last year. No burn or streaks and I applied it between normal fertilizing.

Also another vote for hating clover. I weed be gone'd the hell out of it. Took a few passings, but it is gone now and grass is there and its plenty green!
Just read about this stuff as an alternative to top dressing with compost as a way to increase micronutrient and beneficial microbe levels in your soil. So you like it, eh?

 
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Thoughts on electric mowers / weedeaters? Under half an acre of total grass cutting. Do they last? Are they powerful enough? Etc....
Just bought an electric Toro string trimmer last year. Hauling the cord around is a pain in the ###, but I was tired of problems with the gas models. Electric is strong enough. It's the rechargeable cordless ones you want to stay away from.
What kind of crappy gas trimmers were you using that drove you to buy an electric? I finally wore out my first gas trimmer after about 15 years of heavy use, and it was but a lowly Ryobi. Never gave me any trouble. Now I have an Echo that's more powerful and smoother. Can't say I'd ever go back to an electric.
 
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Started lovin the milorganite late last year. No burn or streaks and I applied it between normal fertilizing.

Also another vote for hating clover. I weed be gone'd the hell out of it. Took a few passings, but it is gone now and grass is there and its plenty green!
Just read about this stuff as an alternative to top dressing with compost as a way to increase micronutrient and beneficial microbe levels in your soil. So you like it, eh?
Big fan of Milorganite. Ironite is almost as good.The difference between a flower and a weed is judgement. That said, I think clover may increase insect populations but I have no data on that. Just a hunch.

 
Is there a crabgrass pre-emergent formula that also treats/kills existing weeds?
None that I know of. Your talking about two different types of chemistry here: 1-pre-emergents either kill feeder roots or prevent seed germination vs. 2-herbicides that absorb into green tissue and work systemically.Google is my friend

I don't know if MSMA is available for the homeowner. :kicksrock:

 
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I'm in Florida and I have patchy "grass". I don't need a really nice lawn, but I'd like it to be all green (even if the green consists of weeds other than grass).Should I buy one of those spreaders and some grass seed?When should I do this?Do I then water it? :kicksrock:
Spend the $, buy Emerald Zoysiagrass. No weeds, no bugs, drought resistant. Only problem is over time it will wipe out anything in it's path. You'll #### your pants when it arrives and looks like astroturf.
 
So, whats the shark move here for Spring? Lawn looking quite lifeless and patchy brown after the winter thaw here in Chicago. Is now a good time to fertilize? lyme?

 
I'm in Florida and I have patchy "grass". I don't need a really nice lawn, but I'd like it to be all green (even if the green consists of weeds other than grass).Should I buy one of those spreaders and some grass seed?When should I do this?Do I then water it? ;)
Spend the $, buy Emerald Zoysiagrass. No weeds, no bugs, drought resistant. Only problem is over time it will wipe out anything in it's path. You'll #### your pants when it arrives and looks like astroturf.
Anyone here ever replace their beat-up St. Augustine w/Zoysia?:zoysiaenvy:
 
Thoughts on electric mowers / weedeaters? Under half an acre of total grass cutting. Do they last? Are they powerful enough? Etc....
Just bought an electric Toro string trimmer last year. Hauling the cord around is a pain in the ###, but I was tired of problems with the gas models. Electric is strong enough. It's the rechargeable cordless ones you want to stay away from.
What kind of crappy gas trimmers were you using that drove you to buy an electric? I finally wore out my first gas trimmer after about 15 years of heavy use, and it was but a lowly Ryobi. Never gave me any trouble. Now I have an Echo that's more powerful and smoother. Can't say I'd ever go back to an electric.
Completely disregard my statement. I was thinking of blowers. I had bad luck with the last couple gas models I had so I bought the electric since I really only use it to clear the driveway/porch/sidewalks.
 
Does fertilizer/weed killer keep or does it expire? If I buy a large bag of Scotts Halt, can I use half this spring and keep the other half for next year?

 
Yep, just wondering if most people used the Scotts (or whatever, I prefer Vigoro) each Fall.
I've only used winterizer once and that was up in OH, not here in SC. It absolutely greened the grass right up in the spring, first house to be green on the block. Here's my plan this year since I noticed this last year. Put down Scott's halts w/fertilizer about 2 weeks ago, another month or so hit it with weed and feed to kill the leafy stuff then come back with a light dose of halts w/fertilizer again in mid to late summer. The freaking crab grass at my place comes back twice. Spring application does a nice job but by August last year it was coming back again.I like the idea of laying it down in the winter tho, let me know how that works out.
over seeding the lawndiscuss
I really need to overseed my lawn bad. I planted a lot of new late last year and the spots where I put it down is coming in nice but the rest of the hay field looks like hell. Too late to do it this year, maybe late fall if I don't lay down the pre-emergent in the winter.
Have you checked out the Organic Plant Health by Food Lion? That's the route I am going this year. About the same amount as the Scotts treatments, but you are applying stuff each month. Last month I applied pre-emergent, this month soil amendments, next month another round of pre-emergent etc. No fert until May (if I remember correctly). They're really helpful...will give you a calender and everything.
Headed there now. for my program(bermuda gass), I put down pre-emergent back in September, and had some pretty significant problems this spring...next round of pre-emergent is scheduled for April, but I'm thinking that's really too late, based on the weeds in my yard right now. I speng a good chunk of yesterday with a hand-sprayer putting down some post-emergent weed killer - hopefully that will work.
 
-stays a healthy green through most conditions

-requires much less water

-requires virtually no fertilizer or maintenance

-grows in much harsher conditions then most grass

-doesn't need to be mowed as often as grass
:unsure: Because it's a weed.
:bag: you asked. no comment on the points you edited out?

Clover isn't a weed for many people for the reasons I stated. Historically it has always been a welcome part of a healthy lawn and included in lawn seed mixtures.
No clover here!!!
 
Yep, just wondering if most people used the Scotts (or whatever, I prefer Vigoro) each Fall.
I've only used winterizer once and that was up in OH, not here in SC. It absolutely greened the grass right up in the spring, first house to be green on the block. Here's my plan this year since I noticed this last year. Put down Scott's halts w/fertilizer about 2 weeks ago, another month or so hit it with weed and feed to kill the leafy stuff then come back with a light dose of halts w/fertilizer again in mid to late summer. The freaking crab grass at my place comes back twice. Spring application does a nice job but by August last year it was coming back again.I like the idea of laying it down in the winter tho, let me know how that works out.
over seeding the lawndiscuss
I really need to overseed my lawn bad. I planted a lot of new late last year and the spots where I put it down is coming in nice but the rest of the hay field looks like hell. Too late to do it this year, maybe late fall if I don't lay down the pre-emergent in the winter.
Have you checked out the Organic Plant Health by Food Lion? That's the route I am going this year. About the same amount as the Scotts treatments, but you are applying stuff each month. Last month I applied pre-emergent, this month soil amendments, next month another round of pre-emergent etc. No fert until May (if I remember correctly). They're really helpful...will give you a calender and everything.
Headed there now. for my program(bermuda gass), I put down pre-emergent back in September, and had some pretty significant problems this spring...next round of pre-emergent is scheduled for April, but I'm thinking that's really too late, based on the weeds in my yard right now. I speng a good chunk of yesterday with a hand-sprayer putting down some post-emergent weed killer - hopefully that will work.
I am loving this program, but don't have bermuda...have fescue. Do you use their weed killer too? Wondering how good it is. I have a few spots where grass hasn't grown and weeds are coming, but nothing unmanageable.
 
just moved into a new home and right off the patio was a dirt patch, mud after it rains. i know zoysia is the best for shade, the place here has meyer and emerald. any suggestions as to which is better for a spot that may get 4-5 hours of sun?

also the front yard was sodded with centipede, seems pretty simple to take care of.

 
Right now dandelions are the bain of my existence. Filled four 5 gallon buckets with just the ones from the front yard last night.

 
Just cut my grass for the first time this year....and it looks like ####...

Patchy as hell in the front yard. From what I am gathering here...I cant do anything until I start over in the fall..right?

I bought the house last summer and it was ok, but I didnt do anything to it before the winter.

 
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We built new last year and I made an attempt at seeding a new lawn, but it didn't turn out so hot. I spent a lot of time on it, for little results. I don't want to have to put in that same amount of time this spring/summer, so we're going to sod the yard.

Any tips on sod care?

 
Just cut my grass for the first time this year....and it looks like ####...Patchy as hell in the front yard. From what I am gathering here...I cant do anything until I start over in the fall..right?I bought the house last summer and it was ok, but I didnt do anything to it before the winter.
You can still seed. Just don`t use halts or weed and feed until later in the season.
 
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The Commish said:
I am loving this program, but don't have bermuda...have fescue. Do you use their weed killer too? Wondering how good it is. I have a few spots where grass hasn't grown and weeds are coming, but nothing unmanageable.
this is the post-emergent stuff I put down. It seemed to do a good job on al lbroad-leafed stuff, but didn't kill the grassy weeds (stray fescue, rye (I think), etc.) I am running a little late with my applications: my March application is a pre-emergent, but the dude at the store recommended aerating and waiting a week to put it down so it stays on top of the lawn - applying then aerating negates the effects. So, I aerated last week, and will be putting down my march application tomorrow.
 
Simple tips for St. Augustine grass

1. Set your mower height to the highest level, promotes stronger root growth and spreading.

2. Dust crabgrass with baking soda, kills the crabgrass with minimal effect on surrounding St. Augustine.

3. Keep vigil on chinch bugs and sod webworms. Talstar is very effective treatment in lue of the home centers treatments.

4. Milorganite is a great cheap fertilizer.

HTH

 
Right now dandelions are the bain of my existence. Filled four 5 gallon buckets with just the ones from the front yard last night.
SPRAY, DON'T PULL!!!
Yes...get some weed 'b gone and be done with them.
Just laid down some weed and feed but I pretty much eliminated dandelions in the last few seasons. It was more for the damn clover and weed grass I have growing everywhere.What kind of grass/weed goes to seed right about now in SC? My yard is full up of it. Soon it will die off and the creepy weed/grass takes over. I'd like to eliminate them both but more concerned with the stuff that is seeding now.
 

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