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I've got it too.My grass is looking very healthy right now - possibly the best it's ever looked. Unfortunately, the weeds are doing jsut as well. Going to spray tonight...I'm thinking the only way to get on top of this is weekly spray treatments.
Yeah...no encouraging news other than it dies in the summer. Guy told me the only real time to treat is during the fall with a pre-emergent just like I was reading earlier. He said he recommends cutting your grass an inch or so shorter also through the entire summer. It IS a grass so the treatments are of no use.ETA: He also said to bag everything you cut for the rest of the season.The other fun part of this crap is that when you mow, you spread it. So we got that going for us
I've used typical week killers for lawns. It may take a couple applications but still works.
"Water deeply" is the better way to describe what you should do. This means applying more water at one time so that it penetrates farther into the soil, which encourages root growth. Strong roots make for healthier, more drought-resistant plants.Most of what I've read suggests an inch of water (rain plus sprinkler) a week. Put a cup out and wait until it accumulates an inch of water.You can tell that your grass needs water by looking at it. Obviously if it's brown, but before that if it looks wilted or starts to curl, it's time to water.ETA: The OP does a really nice job of answering most noob questions.
Empire Zoysia. http://www.empireturf.com/Plug it if you have to. I wouldn't seed. It is so slow you may wonder if any seeds germinated. I would also put it in with the centipede grass. It looks close to the same, will work its way through the centipede (which has a shallow root system-thus not as drought tolerant) and overtake it and you will be glad it does. I'm in the process of doing that right now.
When I plugged empire into an area of centipede, within 2 years, I couldn't tell what was what. Centipede is great in the shade and semi shade. I wanted to test the zoysia in the same setting and so far it has been fine in semishade. It's biggest drawbacks are shade tolerance, thatch and it is invasive. It will take over a mulch bed without good borders. As in the pictures, my borders are sunken countryside wall, level with the zoysia so I don't have to weedeat.
Is this your mailbox being eaten by a climbing plant? The planting looks like.........Oscar the Grouch's genitalia if he wasn't a puppet. Sorry Beer30, it's late and I'm pretty wasted. Good luck with that Annual Bluegrass or Poa Annua is another name. It's a ##### of a plant. It can withstand heat/cold/low mowing heights. It produces thousands of seeds and right now is the time it flourishes. Pre-emerging can help in the fall and spring. There are chemicals (Kerb, Revolver,Prograss) that will selectively take out Poa but you have to read the label and see what precautions to take. One way of handling it is to not overwater the areas. Poa loves water and hates sand so maybe topdress some plaster sand into the areas. Late night drunken turf rant...Poa Annua can make a fine putting surface. Many greens in California including Torrey Pines and Pebble Beach have Poa greens.
Get a soil test to see where it is at. If your soil isn't right grass won't grow how you want it to. Also, milorganite is your friend.This spot was full up of that crap, thatched out dead after I applied Scott's weed & feed and pulled rest. Re-seeded but I can tell already it's not gonna come up, you can see some of the bluegrass crap popped back up, gotta pull it.
This is the other side of the front yard, you can see where it's coming in here too. Bigger battle but it's next on the list to attack.
Finally this mess is what the back looks like. The darker areas outlined are where there is still some semblance of grass but it's losing the battle. The good news is it will die off in another month or so, the centipede grass will take over and I'll be rid of it for another year. Throw some pre-emergent down in late fall, again in spring, lather, rinse, repeat
A rule of thumb is 24 hours but it depends on what you sprayed. Reading the label might have a re-entry period stated.
Fine once it's dry.
In most cases, pesticides available to homeowners have a low toxicity level. The signal word on the label tells you a great deal about how toxic a product is. Once a product is dry might be an OK rule of thumb but I want to make certain. Scott's Weed and Feed, for example says that you should not water it in for 24 hours after application. I don't want my kids or pets running around on it until after I'm certain it's been soaked up and into the plant or soil.REI information
Really?
Have you tried Weed-B-Gon?
I am having the exact opposite problem. I can't get the ivy to grow on the walls.I want to find who created ground ivy and shoot them.
If you can see it, it's too late but I'd still recommend throwing done some Scotts Halts. Then you can either kill it all or start pulling, enjoy your new found oneness with nature
You try spraying it yet?
With something like Weed-B-Gone?
Yes, something like that.
Empty, you mean?My tip is to pay a professional to spray and cut the lawn, I got home from work last night and it looked like PNC park
Its probably just heat stressed and now dormant. It will come back. If you start watering it (about an inch and a half a week) you'll need to keep up with it.It hasn't rained at my house in over a month, and everything is dying.
It's newer grass too. I've been watering almost every evening though. Been above 90 for a few weeks now. Upper 90s this week
Typically, it doesn't rain here from early May to mid October.
How new is it? Have you mowed it several times since it germinated? If so, you're better off watering it about 1 1/2 inches a week. The deeper you water it helps promote deep root growth, making the grass stronger. Watering it only once a week better prepares it for droughts. If you are watering it every day it is going to constantly need water.
If by ground ivy, you mean the weed also known as creeping charlie then read this thread.I bought the specialized ortho stuff for clover and oxalis and doubled the dosage. I sprayed about every week in the spring and got rid of most of it. Although this will be a constant battle since my lazy neighbor has a whole yard of it. If you do try anything now be careful...with the heat this strong stuff may kill the lawn.I want to find who created ground ivy and shoot them.
I did not know that. txIt's about 3 months old. I brought in new dirt in my front because it was so uneven and then sowed new seed. Covered it with straw and then put a covering over it you get at Lowe's to hold the straw. It rained here in the Nashville area nonstop for 2 months. The new grass popped up really quickly, thick too. So after taking over the tarp and raking out some of the straw, I mowed it on the highest level I could get on my mower. That was over a month ago and it hasn't rained a single drop since. I'll have to say, though. Everyone els's grass in the neighborhood had mostly died off. They had the good stuff. The part of the grass I had in my yard initially hasn't died at all. Still holding on. Just not putting up any new grass to fill in the bare spots.southeastjerome said:How new is it? Have you mowed it several times since it germinated? If so, you're better off watering it about 1 1/2 inches a week. The deeper you water it helps promote deep root growth, making the grass stronger. Watering it only once a week better prepares it for droughts. If you are watering it every day it is going to constantly need water.flapgreen said:It's newer grass too. I've been watering almost every evening though. Been above 90 for a few weeks now. Upper 90s this weeksoutheastjerome said:Its probably just heat stressed and now dormant. It will come back. If you start watering it (about an inch and a half a week) you'll need to keep up with it.flapgreen said:It hasn't rained at my house in over a month, and everything is dying.
On another note, I'm watering my new trees every other day along with my flowers on a daily basis
