ragincajun
Footballguy
Need a good fall routine for Centipdede. I hit it in the spring with weed free zone, sedge ender.
Exactly. Seeding, aerating, etc, is easy. I just for the life of me can't seem to get rid of the weeds. I've tried different fertilizers, different weed killers, keeping the grass higher, etc. Nothing seems to be working.The Commish said:I'll do the seed, aeration etc all myself. I just need help getting the weeds under control. There's some stuff here I've never seen before and a lot of fire ants.
What type of grass?Exactly. Seeding, aerating, etc, is easy. I just for the life of me can't seem to get rid of the weeds. I've tried different fertilizers, different weed killers, keeping the grass higher, etc. Nothing seems to be working.
Never hurts to get a soil test done. Rutgers does it for $20.I will say that weed free zone knocked everything out of my lawn but crabgrass and nutsedge. I tried the weed killer/fertilizer mixture this year and it was nowhere as good as the straight weed killer. I could only find it at local hardware stores.
PSA: LSU will sample my soil for me to tell me if it is to acidic, etc. It may be worth looking into to see if some of your local Universities have a similar program.
http://www.lsuagcenter.com/portals/our_offices/departments/spess/servicelabs/soil_testing_lab
Yup. I would just wait another month or so and do it in September.Too late in the seasons to do dethatching and core aerating?
Would it make sense to just wait until early next Spring?Yup. I would just wait another month or so and do it in September.
If we're talking waves or mole mounds, try a lawn roller first. Just a big barrel filled with water or sand that you roll over high spots. They work relatively well, especially after a rain.If you're trying to build up/level low spots in your lawn, roughly how much dirt can you put down on the grass underneath it and still have the grass grow through the dirt? Can you cover the grass completely? What's the best way to level the lawn? I don't want to tear up all the grass in the low spots and add topsoil that way, I just want to bring them up to even with the rest of the lawn.
Not sure about this. You'd have to read about the active ingredient and figure that out. I didn't spray it over bushes because I wasn't sure. There were certainly some places I wish I could have.Briman said:Also - sill sledghammer hurt landscaping bushes?
Can you easily pull it up?dumb question here. I just moved into a new place with sod out front only. I want to extend my driveway to make it 3 cars wide in the parking area. Can I move the sod or am I SOL?
I can see the outlines of the square. So sort of...Can you easily pull it up?
If it's not taken root, you can probably move it. If you pull on it and it doesn't want to let go, I'd leave it alone.I can see the outlines of the square. So sort of...
I learned my lesson a few years ago when I cut my grass tight one weekend and Wisconsin went on to have one of the driest, hottest periods in their history. Won't get fooled again.Cutting the grass long is key. I cut mine long and it looks so much better than all my neighbors.3) Cutting: c) Keep your grass long (think plush carpet, not old fashioned astro turf). A longer blade will shade out weeds and be more drought resistant
I've aerated in the Fall. You could wait until the Spring, but no harm in getting it done in the Fall if you want.Chadstroma said:Would it make sense to just wait until early next Spring?
did you throw down some grubex for the hell of it? Maybe give this a shot. I got one, but I haven't had to use it. Saw some mole tunnels last year, but I grubexed it this year and only saw a few minor tunnels so far. But if they come back, I'm giving them the victor. There's some videos on the tube on some different ways to set it up.Ive been battling moles for nearly a year now. Lived in my house for 15 years and never saw one, now my yard is infested.
At any given time, I have 5-10 active mole tunnels in my yard. I have been using the gummy-worms (drop down hole, mark it, come back a few days later and tamp it down, re-check a few days later). It seems to put an end to that specific tunnel, but another one will re-appear nearby soon enough. I live on a wooded lot, so my entire yard is surrounded by woods. I also have many mulched "islands" in my yard (which they also seem to love). Id say Ive used about a dozen boxes (10 each) and for most of them, I have been breaking the worm in two. That's like 200 worms Ive dropped in holes over the past 10 months. Im starting to think this is a losing battle. Anyone ever battled moles on this scale before? Someone told me I should be treating for whatever (grubs?) they are eating rather than trying to treat them directly? Not really seeing grubs, but I have noticed holes that some sort of cicada is coming out of? Maybe they are after them? Any advise?
I have not tried grubex yet, but guess its my next step. Says to apply spring to early summer... too late now?did you throw down some grubex for the hell of it? Maybe give this a shot. I got one, but I haven't had to use it. Saw some mole tunnels last year, but I grubexed it this year and only saw a few minor tunnels so far. But if they come back, I'm giving them the victor. There's some videos on the tube on some different ways to set it up.
So a guy I work with is a huge farming/landscaping nerd. Do you happen to have a Japanese beetle problem? Or grubs? Moles are attracted to the grubs and if you can get rid of them, the moles will eventually move on since they'll have nothing to eat.Ive been battling moles for nearly a year now. Lived in my house for 15 years and never saw one, now my yard is infested.
At any given time, I have 5-10 active mole tunnels in my yard. I have been using the gummy-worms (drop down hole, mark it, come back a few days later and tamp it down, re-check a few days later). It seems to put an end to that specific tunnel, but another one will re-appear nearby soon enough. I live on a wooded lot, so my entire yard is surrounded by woods. I also have many mulched "islands" in my yard (which they also seem to love). Id say Ive used about a dozen boxes (10 each) and for most of them, I have been breaking the worm in two. That's like 200 worms Ive dropped in holes over the past 10 months. Im starting to think this is a losing battle. Anyone ever battled moles on this scale before? Someone told me I should be treating for whatever (grubs?) they are eating rather than trying to treat them directly? Not really seeing grubs, but I have noticed holes that some sort of cicada is coming out of? Maybe they are after them? Any advise?
Too late for the grubex.I have not tried grubex yet, but guess its my next step. Says to apply spring to early summer... too late now?
I looked at those traps, but I would need like 10 of them and it would add another step in my process as Id have to dispose of the mole instead of just tamping them into the ground. I feel like the worms are working, but there are just too many moles to get ahead.![]()
I have not noticed grubs or an abundance of *** beetles. I have seen small holes in the yard though and found cicada shells. Im wondering if they're going after them? Would treating the yard for grubs get rid of these as well?So a guy I work with is a huge farming/landscaping nerd. Do you happen to have a Japanese beetle problem? Or grubs? Moles are attracted to the grubs and if you can get rid of them, the moles will eventually move on since they'll have nothing to eat.
When you say you haven't noticed grubs, have you pulled up a small section of your lawn to see if there's any?I have not noticed grubs or an abundance of *** beetles. I have seen small holes in the yard though and found cicada shells. Im wondering if they're going after them? Would treating the yard for grubs get rid of these as well?
I had the exact same scenario. Also had the mulched areas, woods surrounding me etc. I was about to roll up my sleeves and going at it, but we up and moved. Caster oil seems to be the most popular solution for such a big problem. If you look at the bottles of treatment in the store, that's what the primary ingredient is usually. Soaking the areas seems to do the trick. My dad had a couple holes and this is what he did. I've also heard human hair is a big turn off. Getting rid of their food source is probably a big help also.Ive been battling moles for nearly a year now. Lived in my house for 15 years and never saw one, now my yard is infested.
At any given time, I have 5-10 active mole tunnels in my yard. I have been using the gummy-worms (drop down hole, mark it, come back a few days later and tamp it down, re-check a few days later). It seems to put an end to that specific tunnel, but another one will re-appear nearby soon enough. I live on a wooded lot, so my entire yard is surrounded by woods. I also have many mulched "islands" in my yard (which they also seem to love). Id say Ive used about a dozen boxes (10 each) and for most of them, I have been breaking the worm in two. That's like 200 worms Ive dropped in holes over the past 10 months. Im starting to think this is a losing battle. Anyone ever battled moles on this scale before? Someone told me I should be treating for whatever (grubs?) they are eating rather than trying to treat them directly? Not really seeing grubs, but I have noticed holes that some sort of cicada is coming out of? Maybe they are after them? Any advise?
No I havent. Ill take a closer look.When you say you haven't noticed grubs, have you pulled up a small section of your lawn to see if there's any?
I would have to soak my whole yard. Its really, really bad. I will literally start tamping in the front yard and work my way around the whole house, tamping down tunnels as I go, and by the time I get back to the original spot in the yard, the tunnels are back. One time I could see one of the little bastards moving in the tunnel and I started chasing it and smashing it with my foot. Starting to feel like Carl Spackler.I had the exact same scenario. Also had the mulched areas, woods surrounding me etc. I was about to roll up my sleeves and going at it, but we up and moved. Caster oil seems to be the most popular solution for such a big problem. If you look at the bottles of treatment in the store, that's what the primary ingredient is usually. Soaking the areas seems to do the trick. My dad had a couple holes and this is what he did. I've also heard human hair is a big turn off. Getting rid of their food source is probably a big help also.
I'm sure they have some sort of grub-ex that works for cicadas and stuff.I have not noticed grubs or an abundance of *** beetles. I have seen small holes in the yard though and found cicada shells. Im wondering if they're going after them? Would treating the yard for grubs get rid of these as well?
I would dethatch first and then aerateOne more follow up question on dethatching and aerating. Should you do one before the other or does it matter?
What type of grass are you trying to put in? Fescue? You'd be able to get it to grow, but it's going to take a LONG time to get it to take. If the budget permits, this seems like an area appropriate for sod. Oh, and whatever PITA you think it's going to be to remove that #### multiple by 5. Rent a bobcat for a few hours....trust me.Wondering if you guys could take a look at these photos and offer any tips. This is my backyard. It has looked like this since I purchased the house about two years ago.
Photo album: https://imgur.com/a/ToAQ0
About 1/2 of the yard has grass (not really pictured here) and this other 1/2 next to my garage looks like this. It is a shaded area both due to the garages on both sides and the shade cover from the trees which I attempted to photograph. This section of the yard has a weed-blocking fabric and small stones covering it.
I am trying to figure out if I can get grass to grow here. The fall is the best time around here to seed the lawn in the northeast, so if I'm going to try to grow grass, this is the time to try it. Obviously I would have to get rid of the stones and pull up the weed fabric, which will be annoying. I have considered trying to put in a little patio area with brick pavers, but I think I'd rather have grass if I can get it to grow.
Do you guys think grass will grow here? Or would I be wasting my time? I can't tell if the previous owners tried to grow grass and gave up, or had, like, an above-ground pool in this area. The area in question is about 16' x 24'.
First question is do you even want grass there? What are you going to use the spot for? Are those both your garages? Looks like the perfect spot for a garden or small patio with a fire pit.Wondering if you guys could take a look at these photos and offer any tips. This is my backyard. It has looked like this since I purchased the house about two years ago.
Photo album: https://imgur.com/a/ToAQ0
About 1/2 of the yard has grass (not really pictured here) and this other 1/2 next to my garage looks like this. It is a shaded area both due to the garages on both sides and the shade cover from the trees which I attempted to photograph. This section of the yard has a weed-blocking fabric and small stones covering it.
I am trying to figure out if I can get grass to grow here. The fall is the best time around here to seed the lawn in the northeast, so if I'm going to try to grow grass, this is the time to try it. Obviously I would have to get rid of the stones and pull up the weed fabric, which will be annoying. I have considered trying to put in a little patio area with brick pavers, but I think I'd rather have grass if I can get it to grow.
Do you guys think grass will grow here? Or would I be wasting my time? I can't tell if the previous owners tried to grow grass and gave up, or had, like, an above-ground pool in this area. The area in question is about 16' x 24'.
Yes, it would be some kind of fescue, shade grass of some kind. I've heard how brutal it is to take out that weed barrier, seems like it will be a total #####. I haven't looked into the cost of sod, I kinda figured it'd be out of the budget.What type of grass are you trying to put in? Fescue? You'd be able to get it to grow, but it's going to take a LONG time to get it to take. If the budget permits, this seems like an area appropriate for sod. Oh, and whatever PITA you think it's going to be to remove that #### multiple by 5. Rent a bobcat for a few hours....trust me.
I don't really need grass there, it's just an eyesore and I'd like to do something with the area. We have a pretty decently-sized covered back deck which is a more than adequate patio, so I don't NEED a patio area back there but it'd be pretty nice. My main concern with that area is getting it level - you can't see in the photo but there are some tree roots roughly above-ground underneath that weed barrier. I know that you should excavate a little bit to grade the ground for a brick patio - my concern is that it may not be possible. In all honesty, I'd probably prefer that instead of grass, in general.First question is do you even want grass there? What are you going to use the spot for? Are those both your garages? Looks like the perfect spot for a garden or small patio with a fire pit.
That's not 400 square feet of space. It should be a couple hundred bucks (you aren't Otis, right?). You'll spend that easily over the next two/three years on seed getting it filled in.Yes, it would be some kind of fescue, shade grass of some kind. I've heard how brutal it is to take out that weed barrier, seems like it will be a total #####. I haven't looked into the cost of sod, I kinda figured it'd be out of the budget.
It is roughly 400 sq feet, it's like 16' x 24'. I thought it was smaller myself until I measured it today. Sod is cheaper than I was expecting, to be honest.That's not 400 square feet of space. It should be a couple hundred bucks (you aren't Otis, right?). You'll spend that easily over the next two/three years on seed getting it filled in.
If you want grass, that's how I'd go. With shade areas, you have 2-3 growing seasons minimum to get it filled in and thick (and sometimes that doesn't do the trick...I've struggled with seed in shade). You can prep the soil by getting all the junk, rocks etc out, get a couple yards of top soil from your local guy (might cost $30), starter fert and then lay the sod. Water the crap out of it for two weeks and you're good to go.It is roughly 400 sq feet, it's like 16' x 24'. I thought it was smaller myself until I measured it today. Sod is cheaper than I was expecting, to be honest.
NutterButter said:Its overseeding season in the northern part of the country. This is your small window to do the most for your lawn. Who's with me?
just did it this morning.