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***Official Surfing Thread*** (1 Viewer)

pipe trials running today in some decent conditions, gonna get big this week for the main event. worldsurfleague.com to watch

 
I lived in near the beach in SoCal for a few years in middle school / high school and spent a few years being a kook. Have been on a kick of surf books recently for some reason. 

Welcome to Paradise, Now Go to Hell - This writer is a total doosh but the book is good because of that. About the North Shore, locals, surfing, and the author being a jackass.

Kook - Great writer (Peter Heller) who learns how to surf when he's like 40 or something.

The Dogs of Winter - In the middle of this one. It's not really about surfing so much but it's pretty good.

 
I lived in near the beach in SoCal for a few years in middle school / high school and spent a few years being a kook. Have been on a kick of surf books recently for some reason. 

Welcome to Paradise, Now Go to Hell - This writer is a total doosh but the book is good because of that. About the North Shore, locals, surfing, and the author being a jackass.

Kook - Great writer (Peter Heller) who learns how to surf when he's like 40 or something.

The Dogs of Winter - In the middle of this one. It's not really about surfing so much but it's pretty good.
Yeah Chas Smith is a #####, his book cocaine + surfing is awful. It never really gets into the drug scene as the title would suggest, just some small rumors which is lame.

Barbarian days however is a great book, the writing is awesome but the book could have been a bit shorter.

 
Yeah Chas Smith is a #####, his book cocaine + surfing is awful. It never really gets into the drug scene as the title would suggest, just some small rumors which is lame.

Barbarian days however is a great book, the writing is awesome but the book could have been a bit shorter.
If you get past the guy the stuff in this book is pretty good about the North Sure, Da Hui, The Pipeline classic, etc. 

I will check out Barbarian Days it is constantly showing up in my Kindle suggestions because of the other books I have bought recently.

 

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