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Otis in the Suburbs (2 Viewers)

Otis in the Suburbs

  • Yes

    Votes: 12 17.1%
  • Right-O

    Votes: 18 25.7%
  • You betcha

    Votes: 40 57.1%

  • Total voters
    70
Otis, any plans to replace the deck? I looks like it's waiting for someone to fall through the wood!
This week. Masonry guy coming in for a major job. This is the last of our big projects and the rest will be smaller, Otis-scale projects. They're ripping out the deck (which, you're right, is rotting, and also is dark and damp beneath and is a great festering spot for all the damn mosquitoes and bugs in the yard) and installing a new paver patio. New stucco along the cracked, ugly retaining wall. New mini stoop at the double doors. He's also redoing the front -- new bluestone and stucco work leading up the stairs and railings to the front door, new front stoop. I'm also gonna have him do a small mini-patio, probably of pavers, right off the front walkway -- there's a great little nook there surrounded by shrubs at the top of the hill, would be a perfect little sitting area for my refinished bench. Plant a small garden in the flowerbeds around it, people can sit out there have a smoke. Kids can wait for the bus (which will pick them up at the bottom of the hill). Mom can wait for the kids to get dropped off from school. etc. But yea, I've been taking a bunch of before pics/vids of both areas, and will post afters once the masonry is done. This is one of the projects I've been most excited about. Can't wait until it's done...
 
Man, I wish I was Otis-rich.
Otis is now uber broke once all this work is paid for. Just consider if instead of buying the house you bought, you bought one that was real beat up and 10% less expensive, and then you put that 10% into fixing up the beat up house. 6 of one, half a dozen of another.
 
I was taught by a pro in million dollar ocean front condos and have painted hundreds of cabinets. I've never stripped them. That would be a big waste of time and effort.

Remove the doors.

Clean doors and frames with denatured alcohol or tsp.

Lightly wipe down/wet sand all surfaces with 400 grit.

This is not heavy sanding, just a brief wipe down to prep the surfaces and should take less effort than the cleaning step, but be thorough and wipe all surfaces. You may find an old drip or grease stain that needs attention, or you may find this step completely optional. It does not HAVE to be done.

Dry and dust surfaces until 100% dust free. My old painter buddy liked to blow dry them with compressed air before we would...

Apply a thin coat of primer. I start with the frames and move to the doors. I like working with a bag of cheap foam brushes for this stage. Use dry foam brush to quickly soak up any drips and keep things smooth.

By the time the last door is primed, the frame is ready for finish paint. Thinly applied primer needs 30 minutes to an hour in most conditions. If it is very humid, wait an extra hour and finish the job.

But here's why I wanted to post. The last job I did was my mom's master bathroom. She rents the place and lives with me. I put in a new tile floor, which forced me to do new baseboards, which came with matching crown (thanks mom, god I hate crown), so we decided to paint the door, cabinets and new and old trim all the same Satin Heirloom White. Yep, cans of spray paint. I don't know what is up with the price in that link, but that can of paint sells at HD for $4 or so. I also used spray cans of Painter's Touch primer for the cabinets and entry door; the new base and crown came primered. In all I purchased 12 cans of spray paint for less than $50. 4 cans of primer and 8 cans of finish. I sprayed the base, crown, and doors outside. When I punched finish nails into the base and crown while installing, I just needed a dab of filler in the nail hole and a quick squirt from the can to get a professional look. It was so much easier to spray outside that this little finish step inside was way worth it.

The point is for smaller and maybe even medium sized diy paint jobs, spray cans may be the better choice. No brushes means no brush marks, no brush clean up, no paint stirring, spilling, dripping, storing etc. Just shake like a monkey and spray (actually a little technique is important, but still). The high price of paint by the gallon is what got me thinking of cans. I would pay a premium to use cans next time, but for this job it seemed to break even or save a few bucks. More importantly the paint in those cans is oil based, so I got a richer more durable finish than I would have with water based brushing and messing with cans. When I was doing the bathroom door outside, I was getting a very fine pimpling from the cans. It was like a tiny paint rash you couldn't see but could feel with your hand when it dried. This was from the very fine spray drying almost on contact in tiny little spots. I needed to keep the can closer to the surface than I would with a paint gun. Once I got the distance right the job was a snap, a very clean, very disposable, very professional, in and out snap. :thumbup:

 
There's something oddly very gratifying about going to bed sore from a long day of outdoor labor and then showing up to the office on Monday morning with nicks, cuts, and paint stains on your hands.

 
There's something oddly very gratifying about going to bed sore from a long day of outdoor labor and then showing up to the office on Monday morning with nicks, cuts, and paint stains on your hands.
Yep. It's almost like some of us are designed for hard labor more than we care to admit. I'm often bored, unsatisfied, a touch grumpy, unproductive, and day dreaming at this desk being a business guy. I'm generally quite happy before, during and after serious labor. :shrug:
 
I was taught by a pro in million dollar ocean front condos and have painted hundreds of cabinets. I've never stripped them. That would be a big waste of time and effort.

Remove the doors.

Clean doors and frames with denatured alcohol or tsp.

Lightly wipe down/wet sand all surfaces with 400 grit.

This is not heavy sanding, just a brief wipe down to prep the surfaces and should take less effort than the cleaning step, but be thorough and wipe all surfaces. You may find an old drip or grease stain that needs attention, or you may find this step completely optional. It does not HAVE to be done.

Dry and dust surfaces until 100% dust free. My old painter buddy liked to blow dry them with compressed air before we would...

Apply a thin coat of primer. I start with the frames and move to the doors. I like working with a bag of cheap foam brushes for this stage. Use dry foam brush to quickly soak up any drips and keep things smooth.

By the time the last door is primed, the frame is ready for finish paint. Thinly applied primer needs 30 minutes to an hour in most conditions. If it is very humid, wait an extra hour and finish the job.

But here's why I wanted to post. The last job I did was my mom's master bathroom. She rents the place and lives with me. I put in a new tile floor, which forced me to do new baseboards, which came with matching crown (thanks mom, god I hate crown), so we decided to paint the door, cabinets and new and old trim all the same Satin Heirloom White. Yep, cans of spray paint. I don't know what is up with the price in that link, but that can of paint sells at HD for $4 or so. I also used spray cans of Painter's Touch primer for the cabinets and entry door; the new base and crown came primered. In all I purchased 12 cans of spray paint for less than $50. 4 cans of primer and 8 cans of finish. I sprayed the base, crown, and doors outside. When I punched finish nails into the base and crown while installing, I just needed a dab of filler in the nail hole and a quick squirt from the can to get a professional look. It was so much easier to spray outside that this little finish step inside was way worth it.

The point is for smaller and maybe even medium sized diy paint jobs, spray cans may be the better choice. No brushes means no brush marks, no brush clean up, no paint stirring, spilling, dripping, storing etc. Just shake like a monkey and spray (actually a little technique is important, but still). The high price of paint by the gallon is what got me thinking of cans. I would pay a premium to use cans next time, but for this job it seemed to break even or save a few bucks. More importantly the paint in those cans is oil based, so I got a richer more durable finish than I would have with water based brushing and messing with cans. When I was doing the bathroom door outside, I was getting a very fine pimpling from the cans. It was like a tiny paint rash you couldn't see but could feel with your hand when it dried. This was from the very fine spray drying almost on contact in tiny little spots. I needed to keep the can closer to the surface than I would with a paint gun. Once I got the distance right the job was a snap, a very clean, very disposable, very professional, in and out snap. :thumbup:
cool. We did everything you said with our bathroom, removed everything but used a stripper, than sanded etc etc, they came out real nice. I'll keep in mind the spray can.My bathroom cabinets looked similar to Otis kitchen pre and here was the finished after paint etc

https://picasaweb.google.com/109155151455425057515/Bathroom?authuser=0&authkey=Gv1sRgCIOK0tr35tXoiwE&feat=directlink

 
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I was taught by a pro in million dollar ocean front condos and have painted hundreds of cabinets. I've never stripped them. That would be a big waste of time and effort.

Remove the doors.

Clean doors and frames with denatured alcohol or tsp.

Lightly wipe down/wet sand all surfaces with 400 grit.

This is not heavy sanding, just a brief wipe down to prep the surfaces and should take less effort than the cleaning step, but be thorough and wipe all surfaces. You may find an old drip or grease stain that needs attention, or you may find this step completely optional. It does not HAVE to be done.

Dry and dust surfaces until 100% dust free. My old painter buddy liked to blow dry them with compressed air before we would...

Apply a thin coat of primer. I start with the frames and move to the doors. I like working with a bag of cheap foam brushes for this stage. Use dry foam brush to quickly soak up any drips and keep things smooth.

By the time the last door is primed, the frame is ready for finish paint. Thinly applied primer needs 30 minutes to an hour in most conditions. If it is very humid, wait an extra hour and finish the job.

But here's why I wanted to post. The last job I did was my mom's master bathroom. She rents the place and lives with me. I put in a new tile floor, which forced me to do new baseboards, which came with matching crown (thanks mom, god I hate crown), so we decided to paint the door, cabinets and new and old trim all the same Satin Heirloom White. Yep, cans of spray paint. I don't know what is up with the price in that link, but that can of paint sells at HD for $4 or so. I also used spray cans of Painter's Touch primer for the cabinets and entry door; the new base and crown came primered. In all I purchased 12 cans of spray paint for less than $50. 4 cans of primer and 8 cans of finish. I sprayed the base, crown, and doors outside. When I punched finish nails into the base and crown while installing, I just needed a dab of filler in the nail hole and a quick squirt from the can to get a professional look. It was so much easier to spray outside that this little finish step inside was way worth it.

The point is for smaller and maybe even medium sized diy paint jobs, spray cans may be the better choice. No brushes means no brush marks, no brush clean up, no paint stirring, spilling, dripping, storing etc. Just shake like a monkey and spray (actually a little technique is important, but still). The high price of paint by the gallon is what got me thinking of cans. I would pay a premium to use cans next time, but for this job it seemed to break even or save a few bucks. More importantly the paint in those cans is oil based, so I got a richer more durable finish than I would have with water based brushing and messing with cans. When I was doing the bathroom door outside, I was getting a very fine pimpling from the cans. It was like a tiny paint rash you couldn't see but could feel with your hand when it dried. This was from the very fine spray drying almost on contact in tiny little spots. I needed to keep the can closer to the surface than I would with a paint gun. Once I got the distance right the job was a snap, a very clean, very disposable, very professional, in and out snap. :thumbup:
cool. We did everything you said with our bathroom, removed everything but used a stripper, than sanded etc etc, they came out real nice. I'll keep in mind the spray can.My bathroom cabinets looked similar to Otis kitchen pre and here was the finished after paint etc

https://picasaweb.google.com/109155151455425057515/Bathroom?authuser=0&authkey=Gv1sRgCIOK0tr35tXoiwE&feat=directlink
Damn your bathroom is crazy nice. I'd kill for just ONE bathroom looking like that in our house. Oh well, some day...
 
a long day of outdoor labor
We're talking about spray painting a bench here, right?
XThe bench required disassembly; the cast iron required sanding, cleaning, painting; the wood had to be cut, stained, drilled; then the bench assembled. Took a long time.But I also painted the lightpost out front and replaced the light at the top with a new one, and did some yardwork out front.This was an all-day affair, fred.
 
I was taught by a pro in million dollar ocean front condos and have painted hundreds of cabinets. I've never stripped them. That would be a big waste of time and effort.

Remove the doors.

Clean doors and frames with denatured alcohol or tsp.

Lightly wipe down/wet sand all surfaces with 400 grit.

This is not heavy sanding, just a brief wipe down to prep the surfaces and should take less effort than the cleaning step, but be thorough and wipe all surfaces. You may find an old drip or grease stain that needs attention, or you may find this step completely optional. It does not HAVE to be done.

Dry and dust surfaces until 100% dust free. My old painter buddy liked to blow dry them with compressed air before we would...

Apply a thin coat of primer. I start with the frames and move to the doors. I like working with a bag of cheap foam brushes for this stage. Use dry foam brush to quickly soak up any drips and keep things smooth.

By the time the last door is primed, the frame is ready for finish paint. Thinly applied primer needs 30 minutes to an hour in most conditions. If it is very humid, wait an extra hour and finish the job.

But here's why I wanted to post. The last job I did was my mom's master bathroom. She rents the place and lives with me. I put in a new tile floor, which forced me to do new baseboards, which came with matching crown (thanks mom, god I hate crown), so we decided to paint the door, cabinets and new and old trim all the same Satin Heirloom White. Yep, cans of spray paint. I don't know what is up with the price in that link, but that can of paint sells at HD for $4 or so. I also used spray cans of Painter's Touch primer for the cabinets and entry door; the new base and crown came primered. In all I purchased 12 cans of spray paint for less than $50. 4 cans of primer and 8 cans of finish. I sprayed the base, crown, and doors outside. When I punched finish nails into the base and crown while installing, I just needed a dab of filler in the nail hole and a quick squirt from the can to get a professional look. It was so much easier to spray outside that this little finish step inside was way worth it.

The point is for smaller and maybe even medium sized diy paint jobs, spray cans may be the better choice. No brushes means no brush marks, no brush clean up, no paint stirring, spilling, dripping, storing etc. Just shake like a monkey and spray (actually a little technique is important, but still). The high price of paint by the gallon is what got me thinking of cans. I would pay a premium to use cans next time, but for this job it seemed to break even or save a few bucks. More importantly the paint in those cans is oil based, so I got a richer more durable finish than I would have with water based brushing and messing with cans. When I was doing the bathroom door outside, I was getting a very fine pimpling from the cans. It was like a tiny paint rash you couldn't see but could feel with your hand when it dried. This was from the very fine spray drying almost on contact in tiny little spots. I needed to keep the can closer to the surface than I would with a paint gun. Once I got the distance right the job was a snap, a very clean, very disposable, very professional, in and out snap. :thumbup:
cool. We did everything you said with our bathroom, removed everything but used a stripper, than sanded etc etc, they came out real nice. I'll keep in mind the spray can.My bathroom cabinets looked similar to Otis kitchen pre and here was the finished after paint etc

https://picasaweb.google.com/109155151455425057515/Bathroom?authuser=0&authkey=Gv1sRgCIOK0tr35tXoiwE&feat=directlink
Damn your bathroom is crazy nice. I'd kill for just ONE bathroom looking like that in our house. Oh well, some day...
LOL. I think I have more pics at home, our old bathroom leaked. So instead of fixing the tiles and such we gutted it for the most part. I then paid tile guys to do the floor and build a custom shower and tile work. They expanded it. It's close to now 4'x4'. It was a basic small shower before. To the left is a garden jet tub they tiled all around. I put in all the fixtures, paint, that frame around the mirror we saw done on tv (it was just a big piece of glass). The labor and stuff for the tile was about 3500 and anoter 2000 for the door. The counter top, cabinets, toilet etc are all the same. So it was a mini upgrade. It's amazing what a little bit can do though. New hardware, fixtures made it look even better.I found more pictures and added them to the album, you can see the "old" cabinet color

https://picasaweb.google.com/109155151455425057515/Bathroom?authuser=0&authkey=Gv1sRgCIOK0tr35tXoiwE&feat=directlink#

ETA: The toilet is no longer in the tub....

 
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Bathroom looks awesome. Great tile work too. I'd love to redo our master like that, just don't have the scratch right now. I'd surely screw it up if I tried to do that kind of tile work myself...

 
cool. We did everything you said with our bathroom, removed everything but used a stripper, than sanded etc etc, they came out real nice. I'll keep in mind the spray can.My bathroom cabinets looked similar to Otis kitchen pre and here was the finished after paint etchttps://picasaweb.google.com/109155151455425057515/Bathroom?authuser=0&authkey=Gv1sRgCIOK0tr35tXoiwE&feat=directlink
Nice tile work there. Also the built in shelf in the shower made me chuckle. I don't know what exactly is my problem, but I cannot ever get the corners of those things right. I put two in my mom's kitcen around her stove top as spice racks and it took me longer to get them right than it did to tile a 5x8' wall and 12' of backsplash. On the spray cans, just typing about it made me want to take on another job. Hmm, this desk and matching file cabinet look like good candidates...
 
I just sent my wife your bathroom pics and asked her if she thinks I can do that with our master bath if I do it myself. I told her your shower looks like the ones at the W Hotel; ours looks like the showers at the YMCA.

 
cool. We did everything you said with our bathroom, removed everything but used a stripper, than sanded etc etc, they came out real nice. I'll keep in mind the spray can.My bathroom cabinets looked similar to Otis kitchen pre and here was the finished after paint etchttps://picasaweb.google.com/109155151455425057515/Bathroom?authuser=0&authkey=Gv1sRgCIOK0tr35tXoiwE&feat=directlink
Nice tile work there. Also the built in shelf in the shower made me chuckle. I don't know what exactly is my problem, but I cannot ever get the corners of those things right. I put two in my mom's kitcen around her stove top as spice racks and it took me longer to get them right than it did to tile a 5x8' wall and 12' of backsplash. On the spray cans, just typing about it made me want to take on another job. Hmm, this desk and matching file cabinet look like good candidates...
Yeah, they did a good job, when we did our design and figured out we needed a custom shower floor I called in thepros to do all the tile, turned out for the best
 
I just sent my wife your bathroom pics and asked her if she thinks I can do that with our master bath if I do it myself. I told her your shower looks like the ones at the W Hotel; ours looks like the showers at the YMCA.
LOL, wish I could take credit for the tile. I was all set to do it, researched even went to the tile shop and took their 1 hour "tile class". When we decided to expand the size of the shower and the custom shower pan/floor needed to be done I bailed. They have kits to do it but it being my first real tile job (minus the tile repairs I did before), I knew this was a bad idea.2 guys from Albania were great. They let me watch them for some tips and such for when I do my smaller 2nd bathroom. That will probably just be the floor. They did a great job though. The shelf is technicall not supposed to be done on an outside wall but he managed to squeeze it in without removing insulation.Can't complain though. The door cost almost as much as the the tile guys :bag:
 
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a long day of outdoor labor
We're talking about spray painting a bench here, right?
XThe bench required disassembly; the cast iron required sanding, cleaning, painting; the wood had to be cut, stained, drilled; then the bench assembled. Took a long time.But I also painted the lightpost out front and replaced the light at the top with a new one, and did some yardwork out front.This was an all-day affair, fred.
Well that sounds like a blast. :mellow:
 
'Otis said:
Otis, can I ask how much for countertops?
About $2300 plus a few hundred more for install and new sink. Granite costs what it costs, so I don't think there's much out there in the way of a "deal." Home Depot would have cost a couple hundred more overall --we went straight to a granite and marble place (where the contractors would go).
Yeah, that's about what I figured. I'm cheap, so I might end up looking for an alternative to granite. Looks real nice though.
 
For painting cabinets or any furniture:

- light sanding

- coat of primer

- EXTERIOR paint (exterior paint dries harder and is a more durable coating)

Use a low nap roller (no foam rollers for me) wherever possible to avoid brush streaks (just use brush for inside corners or places a mini roller can't reach)

 
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'Britney Spears said:
I'd like to formally request a lot of pictures of the paver patio work. I want to DIY paver patio someday and could use some education.
for the record, when brit says "a lot", it means every 90 seconds or so. A couple shots of Mrs. Otis in overalls is mandatory.
 
Granite countertops and new sink were installed yesterday, finishing out our "cheap" kitchen renovation. We probably ended up spending near 10k on the kitchen anyway once you factor in the new appliances, but it's a lot better than the 50k+ we were originally considering, and we're still happy with the result given that everything is "new" (or at least painted/resurfaced) and it looks a bunch better than the disaster it was originally:

BEFORE

Kitchen 1

Kitchen 2

AFTER

Kitchen 1

Kitchen 2

Kitchen 3

Wrought iron railing installed on the flat roof. We may have to pull out a small table and chairs there to sit out and have some morning coffee...

This week they start the outside masonry project to rip up the rotting wood deck out back, install a patio, and redo the front steps and entryway. Should make a big difference, I'm trying to be better about getting the BEFORE shots on this one.
very nice

 
I was taught by a pro in million dollar ocean front condos and have painted hundreds of cabinets. I've never stripped them. That would be a big waste of time and effort.

Remove the doors.

Clean doors and frames with denatured alcohol or tsp.

Lightly wipe down/wet sand all surfaces with 400 grit.

This is not heavy sanding, just a brief wipe down to prep the surfaces and should take less effort than the cleaning step, but be thorough and wipe all surfaces. You may find an old drip or grease stain that needs attention, or you may find this step completely optional. It does not HAVE to be done.

Dry and dust surfaces until 100% dust free. My old painter buddy liked to blow dry them with compressed air before we would...

Apply a thin coat of primer. I start with the frames and move to the doors. I like working with a bag of cheap foam brushes for this stage. Use dry foam brush to quickly soak up any drips and keep things smooth.

By the time the last door is primed, the frame is ready for finish paint. Thinly applied primer needs 30 minutes to an hour in most conditions. If it is very humid, wait an extra hour and finish the job.

But here's why I wanted to post. The last job I did was my mom's master bathroom. She rents the place and lives with me. I put in a new tile floor, which forced me to do new baseboards, which came with matching crown (thanks mom, god I hate crown), so we decided to paint the door, cabinets and new and old trim all the same Satin Heirloom White. Yep, cans of spray paint. I don't know what is up with the price in that link, but that can of paint sells at HD for $4 or so. I also used spray cans of Painter's Touch primer for the cabinets and entry door; the new base and crown came primered. In all I purchased 12 cans of spray paint for less than $50. 4 cans of primer and 8 cans of finish. I sprayed the base, crown, and doors outside. When I punched finish nails into the base and crown while installing, I just needed a dab of filler in the nail hole and a quick squirt from the can to get a professional look. It was so much easier to spray outside that this little finish step inside was way worth it.

The point is for smaller and maybe even medium sized diy paint jobs, spray cans may be the better choice. No brushes means no brush marks, no brush clean up, no paint stirring, spilling, dripping, storing etc. Just shake like a monkey and spray (actually a little technique is important, but still). The high price of paint by the gallon is what got me thinking of cans. I would pay a premium to use cans next time, but for this job it seemed to break even or save a few bucks. More importantly the paint in those cans is oil based, so I got a richer more durable finish than I would have with water based brushing and messing with cans. When I was doing the bathroom door outside, I was getting a very fine pimpling from the cans. It was like a tiny paint rash you couldn't see but could feel with your hand when it dried. This was from the very fine spray drying almost on contact in tiny little spots. I needed to keep the can closer to the surface than I would with a paint gun. Once I got the distance right the job was a snap, a very clean, very disposable, very professional, in and out snap. :thumbup:
:blackdot:
 
Last weekend was productive - I hung drapes (with the help of my father in law), though the middle rod of three is a LITTLE high and it pisses me and my wife off every time we look at them. I also managed to put in a new chandelier in the kitchen all by myself.

This weekend, the electrical continues - 2 dimmers, and then maybe depending on when my AMZN order comes in 3 more. And 4 new outdoor lights + a new post light.

Aren't the suburbs awesome?

 
This heatpocalypse has made living in this old house absolute hell. We won't have any AC downstairs and my wife has sent her days holed up with the baby in our bedroom. Was investigating a bunch of better options, but they were all uber pricey. Fnally plunked down for a monster 36000BTU wall unit, being installed Monday. Found some electrician on the Internet, hopefully less of a nut than the last guy we had in. Need him to run a dedicated 220 line. All supposedly happening Monday. Then hopefully we will have our house back. And of course this is costing me a nice chunk of change.

One thing after another...

Or masonry job also starts Monday. With that we will conclude our immediate efforts to rehabilitate this old piece of crap house...

 
This heatpocalypse has made living in this old house absolute hell. We won't have any AC downstairs and my wife has sent her days holed up with the baby in our bedroom. Was investigating a bunch of better options, but they were all uber pricey. Fnally plunked down for a monster 36000BTU wall unit, being installed Monday. Found some electrician on the Internet, hopefully less of a nut than the last guy we had in. Need him to run a dedicated 220 line. All supposedly happening Monday. Then hopefully we will have our house back. And of course this is costing me a nice chunk of change.

One thing after another...

Or masonry job also starts Monday. With that we will conclude our immediate efforts to rehabilitate this old piece of crap house...
Truer words have never been spoken. I bought a 4 yr old house and it's the same ####. Though I will say, I don't know how I didn't leave with central air before. Sorry, GB.

 
This heatpocalypse has made living in this old house absolute hell. We won't have any AC downstairs and my wife has sent her days holed up with the baby in our bedroom. Was investigating a bunch of better options, but they were all uber pricey. Fnally plunked down for a monster 36000BTU wall unit, being installed Monday. Found some electrician on the Internet, hopefully less of a nut than the last guy we had in. Need him to run a dedicated 220 line. All supposedly happening Monday. Then hopefully we will have our house back. And of course this is costing me a nice chunk of change.

One thing after another...

Or masonry job also starts Monday. With that we will conclude our immediate efforts to rehabilitate this old piece of crap house...
That's HUGE. Would you better getting 2 18k units and put them in opposite ends of the house?Unless your house has a open floor plan, one room will be -32 and others will be 80.

 
This heatpocalypse has made living in this old house absolute hell. We won't have any AC downstairs and my wife has sent her days holed up with the baby in our bedroom. Was investigating a bunch of better options, but they were all uber pricey. Fnally plunked down for a monster 36000BTU wall unit, being installed Monday. Found some electrician on the Internet, hopefully less of a nut than the last guy we had in. Need him to run a dedicated 220 line. All supposedly happening Monday. Then hopefully we will have our house back. And of course this is costing me a nice chunk of change.

One thing after another...

Or masonry job also starts Monday. With that we will conclude our immediate efforts to rehabilitate this old piece of crap house...
That's HUGE. Would you better getting 2 18k units and put them in opposite ends of the house?Unless your house has a open floor plan, one room will be -32 and others will be 80.
i do believe these things have thermostats.... ;)

 
This heatpocalypse has made living in this old house absolute hell. We won't have any AC downstairs and my wife has sent her days holed up with the baby in our bedroom. Was investigating a bunch of better options, but they were all uber pricey. Fnally plunked down for a monster 36000BTU wall unit, being installed Monday. Found some electrician on the Internet, hopefully less of a nut than the last guy we had in. Need him to run a dedicated 220 line. All supposedly happening Monday. Then hopefully we will have our house back. And of course this is costing me a nice chunk of change.

One thing after another...

Or masonry job also starts Monday. With that we will conclude our immediate efforts to rehabilitate this old piece of crap house...
That's HUGE. Would you better getting 2 18k units and put them in opposite ends of the house?Unless your house has a open floor plan, one room will be -32 and others will be 80.
i do believe these things have thermostats.... ;)
:thumbup: I was trying to illustrate that one room would be much colder than the other rooms by being "over the top".

I have a 24k on my first floor (2 smaller on second floor 3ksqft)and it works great. But my home is very wide open. My kitchen/family room is basically one huge room that is the back of my house. The other 2 rooms and foyer have no doors and have two 6'-7' wide entrances in each room. Even with my layout you can feel a temp difference in the room farthest from the AC.

From previous posts, I don't get the feeling Otis has such a wide open concept.

 
This heatpocalypse has made living in this old house absolute hell. We won't have any AC downstairs and my wife has sent her days holed up with the baby in our bedroom. Was investigating a bunch of better options, but they were all uber pricey. Fnally plunked down for a monster 36000BTU wall unit, being installed Monday. Found some electrician on the Internet, hopefully less of a nut than the last guy we had in. Need him to run a dedicated 220 line. All supposedly happening Monday. Then hopefully we will have our house back. And of course this is costing me a nice chunk of change.

One thing after another...

Or masonry job also starts Monday. With that we will conclude our immediate efforts to rehabilitate this old piece of crap house...
That's HUGE. Would you better getting 2 18k units and put them in opposite ends of the house?Unless your house has a open floor plan, one room will be -32 and others will be 80.
i do believe these things have thermostats.... ;)
:thumbup: I was trying to illustrate that one room would be much colder than the other rooms by being "over the top".

I have a 24k on my first floor (2 smaller on second floor 3ksqft)and it works great. But my home is very wide open. My kitchen/family room is basically one huge room that is the back of my house. The other 2 rooms and foyer have no doors and have two 6'-7' wide entrances in each room. Even with my layout you can feel a temp difference in the room farthest from the AC.

From previous posts, I don't get the feeling Otis has such a wide open concept.
ya, I saw some cautionary statements about the high powered ones bouncing cold air off the wall and right back at the unit too. If I take the leap, I will have to get 2 smaller units (or just 1 small unit for the upper level and leave the lower w/o - its partially below grade so it stays cool).
 
That's HUGE. Would you better getting 2 18k units and put them in opposite ends of the house?

Unless your house has a open floor plan, one room will be -32 and others will be 80.
I really hope this happens :unsure: 36000 BTU is ridiculous for Otis's tiny million dollar house

 
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36,000 is about right on for our whole first floor (about 1500 square feet). I'm pretty sure it computes to somewhere around 30k being right, but you're supposed to tack on 4k if you are planning to cool a kitchen (which we are). Our downstairs is fairly open. The unit will be placed on a wall that faces large openings that go straight through to the other end of the house. It should do the trick. The only room that's not line-of-sight is the kitchen, but that is just next to the room where we are installing the wall unit, and I think should be sufficiently cooled by proximity alone.

I hate the look of air conditioners, and I just didn't want to compound things by installing two units if just one would do the trick...

 
Granite countertops and new sink were installed yesterday, finishing out our "cheap" kitchen renovation. We probably ended up spending near 10k on the kitchen anyway once you factor in the new appliances, but it's a lot better than the 50k+ we were originally considering, and we're still happy with the result given that everything is "new" (or at least painted/resurfaced) and it looks a bunch better than the disaster it was originally:

BEFORE

Kitchen 1

Kitchen 2

AFTER

Kitchen 1

Kitchen 2

Kitchen 3

Wrought iron railing installed on the flat roof. We may have to pull out a small table and chairs there to sit out and have some morning coffee...

This week they start the outside masonry project to rip up the rotting wood deck out back, install a patio, and redo the front steps and entryway. Should make a big difference, I'm trying to be better about getting the BEFORE shots on this one.
very nice
In the picture of the wroght iron, is that WII baseball on the TV?Who was taking the picture, Mrs. O?

 
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as much of a pain in the ### it was, reading this thread makes me so happy i built a house rather than bought one
I wish we could raze the damn thing and start from scratch. Maybe one day if we have chetloot. Until then we slum it. What a PIAHow's the patio set?
 
'Otis said:
36,000 is about right on for our whole first floor (about 1500 square feet). I'm pretty sure it computes to somewhere around 30k being right, but you're supposed to tack on 4k if you are planning to cool a kitchen (which we are). Our downstairs is fairly open. The unit will be placed on a wall that faces large openings that go straight through to the other end of the house. It should do the trick. The only room that's not line-of-sight is the kitchen, but that is just next to the room where we are installing the wall unit, and I think should be sufficiently cooled by proximity alone.



I hate the look of air conditioners, and I just didn't want to compound things by installing two units if just one would do the trick...
I'm with you on this. That is why we paid to have our house plumbed for AC when it was built. Unfortunately the builder did put in duct work that was useless. (poorly sized, no returns, etc.) So we have wall units. sigh the life of a homeowner...
 
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'Tiger Fan said:
as much of a pain in the ### it was, reading this thread makes me so happy i built a house rather than bought one
love it too. built it just the way we wanted. :thumbup:been there done that with old houses, fixer-ups
 
I just want to say I hate all of you guys who just have houses built for you from the ground up however you want.

 

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