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Personal Finance Advice and Education! (2 Viewers)

Love seeing the Credit Card talk. I probably need to branch out. We've really gone heavy on Chase.

There's a long-running thread on the topic if you really want to dig in: https://forums.footballguys.com/threads/do-you-hoard-credit-card-points.762601/

I haven't really done anything to play this game or optimize, other than getting a travel card when I'm going on a trip if I don't already have one associated with the airline or hotel. So I have Hilton and Marriott cards, and Alaska, Southwest, United, and American cards. Got the bonuses for each, and obviously use them for booking any travel with any of them to get that boot.

But the AMEX Platinum is the first one I've gotten outside of that model, and while the lounge access has already been great I'm interested in how the travel options work. I just got it so don't have any points in my account yet, so when I go to their portal they don't show me how many points things cost. I had a promotional $99 companion fare on Alaska that was about to expire so I booked flights for the lady and I to Kona in November, hoping to use the AMEX points to cover at least some of the lodging. If no good options I'll look at Marriott or Hilton properties and likely just use points there.
No real reason to use points in the portal (same with Chase, Cap1, Citi) and never book with cash through it unless you're booking a Hotel Collection or Fine Hotels and Resorts property to get the credit. Otherwise, portals are poor value and transferring points to partners is better if you have them to use, and if not just book directly with the airline/hotel and get their rewards (you don't earn rewards through, for example, Marriott if you book through AMEX unless it's a Fine Hotel and Resort and even that's not a sure thing.) I know you earn 5X AMEX points if you book through the portal but I usually make out better booking direct. Plus, if there's an issue, you're dealing with Expedia or whoever operates the AMEX portal instead of the airline/hotel itself.

Hilton and Marriott are both partners, fwiw, so you can transfer your points directly to them.
Is this just a hotel thing? Chase gives 1.25 back when redeeming through the portal so that 5% I got when booking tickets now becomes 6.25% when redeeming those points. I only use points for flights since I predominantly book airbnbs and turos.
I almost certainly overgeneralized if we're talking all card options. I guess the bottom line is compare all the different ways you can book something and choose the best option. AMEX Plat (focusing on this since that's the card being discussed) gives 5X on purchases made directly with airlines so no real reason to book plane trips on the AMEX portal even if just for the potential customer service issues mentioned earlier. Unless there's a significant price difference but that's unlikely. And I'm sure the redemption value of the rewards is better if you transfer directly to the airline instead of using the portal. Of course, the airline/hotel may not be a transfer partner so that's a whole different set of decisions.

For hotels, it depends if you want your status recognized (it likely won't be recognized if booked through the portal EXCEPT for Fine Hotels). Then, if you have a cobranded card for the hotel chain you normally use and maybe there's a promotion which effectively boosts the rewards earned. Then decide if 5X AMEX points for booking through the portal is worth more to you than whatever you get in the hotel loyalty program plus recognized status and easier customer service resolution by booking direct. The AMEX points are more flexible so all things being equal, sure, use the portal. And, if it's a hotel chain you almost never use so status/rewards don't matter, then the portal is fine (but again, remember changes and other customer service issues will be more of a hassle.)

Also @SFBayDuck if you are having trouble thinking of how to use the AMEX $200 airline credit and you ever fly United, make them your selected airline and use the United Travel Bank. You can deposit $200 annually at United and it's credited back to your AMEX account. Essentially, "free" (using quotes because of the annual fee) $200 towards a United flight every year - need to use it within 4 years.
Ok, so for something like the chase sapphire, might make sense to redeem in the portal since you're getting the 25% bonus when doing so. You could transfer but you'd need $.0125 per mile to match that and from my personal experience on united, you're not getting that. maybe that's just a united thing or maybe its just been the flights i've been.
 
Love seeing the Credit Card talk. I probably need to branch out. We've really gone heavy on Chase.

There's a long-running thread on the topic if you really want to dig in: https://forums.footballguys.com/threads/do-you-hoard-credit-card-points.762601/

I haven't really done anything to play this game or optimize, other than getting a travel card when I'm going on a trip if I don't already have one associated with the airline or hotel. So I have Hilton and Marriott cards, and Alaska, Southwest, United, and American cards. Got the bonuses for each, and obviously use them for booking any travel with any of them to get that boot.

But the AMEX Platinum is the first one I've gotten outside of that model, and while the lounge access has already been great I'm interested in how the travel options work. I just got it so don't have any points in my account yet, so when I go to their portal they don't show me how many points things cost. I had a promotional $99 companion fare on Alaska that was about to expire so I booked flights for the lady and I to Kona in November, hoping to use the AMEX points to cover at least some of the lodging. If no good options I'll look at Marriott or Hilton properties and likely just use points there.
No real reason to use points in the portal (same with Chase, Cap1, Citi) and never book with cash through it unless you're booking a Hotel Collection or Fine Hotels and Resorts property to get the credit. Otherwise, portals are poor value and transferring points to partners is better if you have them to use, and if not just book directly with the airline/hotel and get their rewards (you don't earn rewards through, for example, Marriott if you book through AMEX unless it's a Fine Hotel and Resort and even that's not a sure thing.) I know you earn 5X AMEX points if you book through the portal but I usually make out better booking direct. Plus, if there's an issue, you're dealing with Expedia or whoever operates the AMEX portal instead of the airline/hotel itself.

Hilton and Marriott are both partners, fwiw, so you can transfer your points directly to them.
Is this just a hotel thing? Chase gives 1.25 back when redeeming through the portal so that 5% I got when booking tickets now becomes 6.25% when redeeming those points. I only use points for flights since I predominantly book airbnbs and turos.
I almost certainly overgeneralized if we're talking all card options. I guess the bottom line is compare all the different ways you can book something and choose the best option. AMEX Plat (focusing on this since that's the card being discussed) gives 5X on purchases made directly with airlines so no real reason to book plane trips on the AMEX portal even if just for the potential customer service issues mentioned earlier. Unless there's a significant price difference but that's unlikely. And I'm sure the redemption value of the rewards is better if you transfer directly to the airline instead of using the portal. Of course, the airline/hotel may not be a transfer partner so that's a whole different set of decisions.

For hotels, it depends if you want your status recognized (it likely won't be recognized if booked through the portal EXCEPT for Fine Hotels). Then, if you have a cobranded card for the hotel chain you normally use and maybe there's a promotion which effectively boosts the rewards earned. Then decide if 5X AMEX points for booking through the portal is worth more to you than whatever you get in the hotel loyalty program plus recognized status and easier customer service resolution by booking direct. The AMEX points are more flexible so all things being equal, sure, use the portal. And, if it's a hotel chain you almost never use so status/rewards don't matter, then the portal is fine (but again, remember changes and other customer service issues will be more of a hassle.)

Also @SFBayDuck if you are having trouble thinking of how to use the AMEX $200 airline credit and you ever fly United, make them your selected airline and use the United Travel Bank. You can deposit $200 annually at United and it's credited back to your AMEX account. Essentially, "free" (using quotes because of the annual fee) $200 towards a United flight every year - need to use it within 4 years.
Ok, so for something like the chase sapphire, might make sense to redeem in the portal since you're getting the 25% bonus when doing so. You could transfer but you'd need $.0125 per mile to match that and from my personal experience on united, you're not getting that. maybe that's just a united thing or maybe its just been the flights i've been.
All my Chase points pretty much end up at Hyatt since they cut the main PYB categories I used. Very easy to get better than that value per point at Hyatts.
 
Love seeing the Credit Card talk. I probably need to branch out. We've really gone heavy on Chase.

There's a long-running thread on the topic if you really want to dig in: https://forums.footballguys.com/threads/do-you-hoard-credit-card-points.762601/

I haven't really done anything to play this game or optimize, other than getting a travel card when I'm going on a trip if I don't already have one associated with the airline or hotel. So I have Hilton and Marriott cards, and Alaska, Southwest, United, and American cards. Got the bonuses for each, and obviously use them for booking any travel with any of them to get that boot.

But the AMEX Platinum is the first one I've gotten outside of that model, and while the lounge access has already been great I'm interested in how the travel options work. I just got it so don't have any points in my account yet, so when I go to their portal they don't show me how many points things cost. I had a promotional $99 companion fare on Alaska that was about to expire so I booked flights for the lady and I to Kona in November, hoping to use the AMEX points to cover at least some of the lodging. If no good options I'll look at Marriott or Hilton properties and likely just use points there.
No real reason to use points in the portal (same with Chase, Cap1, Citi) and never book with cash through it unless you're booking a Hotel Collection or Fine Hotels and Resorts property to get the credit. Otherwise, portals are poor value and transferring points to partners is better if you have them to use, and if not just book directly with the airline/hotel and get their rewards (you don't earn rewards through, for example, Marriott if you book through AMEX unless it's a Fine Hotel and Resort and even that's not a sure thing.) I know you earn 5X AMEX points if you book through the portal but I usually make out better booking direct. Plus, if there's an issue, you're dealing with Expedia or whoever operates the AMEX portal instead of the airline/hotel itself.

Hilton and Marriott are both partners, fwiw, so you can transfer your points directly to them.
Is this just a hotel thing? Chase gives 1.25 back when redeeming through the portal so that 5% I got when booking tickets now becomes 6.25% when redeeming those points. I only use points for flights since I predominantly book airbnbs and turos.
I almost certainly overgeneralized if we're talking all card options. I guess the bottom line is compare all the different ways you can book something and choose the best option. AMEX Plat (focusing on this since that's the card being discussed) gives 5X on purchases made directly with airlines so no real reason to book plane trips on the AMEX portal even if just for the potential customer service issues mentioned earlier. Unless there's a significant price difference but that's unlikely. And I'm sure the redemption value of the rewards is better if you transfer directly to the airline instead of using the portal. Of course, the airline/hotel may not be a transfer partner so that's a whole different set of decisions.

For hotels, it depends if you want your status recognized (it likely won't be recognized if booked through the portal EXCEPT for Fine Hotels). Then, if you have a cobranded card for the hotel chain you normally use and maybe there's a promotion which effectively boosts the rewards earned. Then decide if 5X AMEX points for booking through the portal is worth more to you than whatever you get in the hotel loyalty program plus recognized status and easier customer service resolution by booking direct. The AMEX points are more flexible so all things being equal, sure, use the portal. And, if it's a hotel chain you almost never use so status/rewards don't matter, then the portal is fine (but again, remember changes and other customer service issues will be more of a hassle.)

Also @SFBayDuck if you are having trouble thinking of how to use the AMEX $200 airline credit and you ever fly United, make them your selected airline and use the United Travel Bank. You can deposit $200 annually at United and it's credited back to your AMEX account. Essentially, "free" (using quotes because of the annual fee) $200 towards a United flight every year - need to use it within 4 years.
Ok, so for something like the chase sapphire, might make sense to redeem in the portal since you're getting the 25% bonus when doing so. You could transfer but you'd need $.0125 per mile to match that and from my personal experience on united, you're not getting that. maybe that's just a united thing or maybe its just been the flights i've been.
All my Chase points pretty much end up at Hyatt since they cut the main PYB categories I used. Very easy to get better than that value per point at Hyatts.
I've never found it better to use my UR points in the portal vs transferring out to Hyatt or an airline.
 
Love seeing the Credit Card talk. I probably need to branch out. We've really gone heavy on Chase.

There's a long-running thread on the topic if you really want to dig in: https://forums.footballguys.com/threads/do-you-hoard-credit-card-points.762601/

I haven't really done anything to play this game or optimize, other than getting a travel card when I'm going on a trip if I don't already have one associated with the airline or hotel. So I have Hilton and Marriott cards, and Alaska, Southwest, United, and American cards. Got the bonuses for each, and obviously use them for booking any travel with any of them to get that boot.

But the AMEX Platinum is the first one I've gotten outside of that model, and while the lounge access has already been great I'm interested in how the travel options work. I just got it so don't have any points in my account yet, so when I go to their portal they don't show me how many points things cost. I had a promotional $99 companion fare on Alaska that was about to expire so I booked flights for the lady and I to Kona in November, hoping to use the AMEX points to cover at least some of the lodging. If no good options I'll look at Marriott or Hilton properties and likely just use points there.
No real reason to use points in the portal (same with Chase, Cap1, Citi) and never book with cash through it unless you're booking a Hotel Collection or Fine Hotels and Resorts property to get the credit. Otherwise, portals are poor value and transferring points to partners is better if you have them to use, and if not just book directly with the airline/hotel and get their rewards (you don't earn rewards through, for example, Marriott if you book through AMEX unless it's a Fine Hotel and Resort and even that's not a sure thing.) I know you earn 5X AMEX points if you book through the portal but I usually make out better booking direct. Plus, if there's an issue, you're dealing with Expedia or whoever operates the AMEX portal instead of the airline/hotel itself.

Hilton and Marriott are both partners, fwiw, so you can transfer your points directly to them.
Is this just a hotel thing? Chase gives 1.25 back when redeeming through the portal so that 5% I got when booking tickets now becomes 6.25% when redeeming those points. I only use points for flights since I predominantly book airbnbs and turos.
I almost certainly overgeneralized if we're talking all card options. I guess the bottom line is compare all the different ways you can book something and choose the best option. AMEX Plat (focusing on this since that's the card being discussed) gives 5X on purchases made directly with airlines so no real reason to book plane trips on the AMEX portal even if just for the potential customer service issues mentioned earlier. Unless there's a significant price difference but that's unlikely. And I'm sure the redemption value of the rewards is better if you transfer directly to the airline instead of using the portal. Of course, the airline/hotel may not be a transfer partner so that's a whole different set of decisions.

For hotels, it depends if you want your status recognized (it likely won't be recognized if booked through the portal EXCEPT for Fine Hotels). Then, if you have a cobranded card for the hotel chain you normally use and maybe there's a promotion which effectively boosts the rewards earned. Then decide if 5X AMEX points for booking through the portal is worth more to you than whatever you get in the hotel loyalty program plus recognized status and easier customer service resolution by booking direct. The AMEX points are more flexible so all things being equal, sure, use the portal. And, if it's a hotel chain you almost never use so status/rewards don't matter, then the portal is fine (but again, remember changes and other customer service issues will be more of a hassle.)

Also @SFBayDuck if you are having trouble thinking of how to use the AMEX $200 airline credit and you ever fly United, make them your selected airline and use the United Travel Bank. You can deposit $200 annually at United and it's credited back to your AMEX account. Essentially, "free" (using quotes because of the annual fee) $200 towards a United flight every year - need to use it within 4 years.
Ok, so for something like the chase sapphire, might make sense to redeem in the portal since you're getting the 25% bonus when doing so. You could transfer but you'd need $.0125 per mile to match that and from my personal experience on united, you're not getting that. maybe that's just a united thing or maybe its just been the flights i've been.
All my Chase points pretty much end up at Hyatt since they cut the main PYB categories I used. Very easy to get better than that value per point at Hyatts.
Personally, I'm just focusing on airlines since I almost exclusively stay at airbnbs.
 
Love seeing the Credit Card talk. I probably need to branch out. We've really gone heavy on Chase.

There's a long-running thread on the topic if you really want to dig in: https://forums.footballguys.com/threads/do-you-hoard-credit-card-points.762601/

I haven't really done anything to play this game or optimize, other than getting a travel card when I'm going on a trip if I don't already have one associated with the airline or hotel. So I have Hilton and Marriott cards, and Alaska, Southwest, United, and American cards. Got the bonuses for each, and obviously use them for booking any travel with any of them to get that boot.

But the AMEX Platinum is the first one I've gotten outside of that model, and while the lounge access has already been great I'm interested in how the travel options work. I just got it so don't have any points in my account yet, so when I go to their portal they don't show me how many points things cost. I had a promotional $99 companion fare on Alaska that was about to expire so I booked flights for the lady and I to Kona in November, hoping to use the AMEX points to cover at least some of the lodging. If no good options I'll look at Marriott or Hilton properties and likely just use points there.
No real reason to use points in the portal (same with Chase, Cap1, Citi) and never book with cash through it unless you're booking a Hotel Collection or Fine Hotels and Resorts property to get the credit. Otherwise, portals are poor value and transferring points to partners is better if you have them to use, and if not just book directly with the airline/hotel and get their rewards (you don't earn rewards through, for example, Marriott if you book through AMEX unless it's a Fine Hotel and Resort and even that's not a sure thing.) I know you earn 5X AMEX points if you book through the portal but I usually make out better booking direct. Plus, if there's an issue, you're dealing with Expedia or whoever operates the AMEX portal instead of the airline/hotel itself.

Hilton and Marriott are both partners, fwiw, so you can transfer your points directly to them.
Is this just a hotel thing? Chase gives 1.25 back when redeeming through the portal so that 5% I got when booking tickets now becomes 6.25% when redeeming those points. I only use points for flights since I predominantly book airbnbs and turos.
I almost certainly overgeneralized if we're talking all card options. I guess the bottom line is compare all the different ways you can book something and choose the best option. AMEX Plat (focusing on this since that's the card being discussed) gives 5X on purchases made directly with airlines so no real reason to book plane trips on the AMEX portal even if just for the potential customer service issues mentioned earlier. Unless there's a significant price difference but that's unlikely. And I'm sure the redemption value of the rewards is better if you transfer directly to the airline instead of using the portal. Of course, the airline/hotel may not be a transfer partner so that's a whole different set of decisions.

For hotels, it depends if you want your status recognized (it likely won't be recognized if booked through the portal EXCEPT for Fine Hotels). Then, if you have a cobranded card for the hotel chain you normally use and maybe there's a promotion which effectively boosts the rewards earned. Then decide if 5X AMEX points for booking through the portal is worth more to you than whatever you get in the hotel loyalty program plus recognized status and easier customer service resolution by booking direct. The AMEX points are more flexible so all things being equal, sure, use the portal. And, if it's a hotel chain you almost never use so status/rewards don't matter, then the portal is fine (but again, remember changes and other customer service issues will be more of a hassle.)

Also @SFBayDuck if you are having trouble thinking of how to use the AMEX $200 airline credit and you ever fly United, make them your selected airline and use the United Travel Bank. You can deposit $200 annually at United and it's credited back to your AMEX account. Essentially, "free" (using quotes because of the annual fee) $200 towards a United flight every year - need to use it within 4 years.
Ok, so for something like the chase sapphire, might make sense to redeem in the portal since you're getting the 25% bonus when doing so. You could transfer but you'd need $.0125 per mile to match that and from my personal experience on united, you're not getting that. maybe that's just a united thing or maybe its just been the flights i've been.
All my Chase points pretty much end up at Hyatt since they cut the main PYB categories I used. Very easy to get better than that value per point at Hyatts.
I've never found it better to use my UR points in the portal vs transferring out to Hyatt or an airline.
The old portal they had a few years ago I had some decent value with, at least with American flights. Heard too many horror stories with the new vendor to give it a try.
 
I have the Sapphire Reserve--with that you get 1.5x on your points in the portal.

Comparing Southwest: It looks like transferring to them comes out to ~1.4 cents per point.

I'm sure it varies by brand, dates, and other factors.
 
Love seeing the Credit Card talk. I probably need to branch out. We've really gone heavy on Chase.

There's a long-running thread on the topic if you really want to dig in: https://forums.footballguys.com/threads/do-you-hoard-credit-card-points.762601/

I haven't really done anything to play this game or optimize, other than getting a travel card when I'm going on a trip if I don't already have one associated with the airline or hotel. So I have Hilton and Marriott cards, and Alaska, Southwest, United, and American cards. Got the bonuses for each, and obviously use them for booking any travel with any of them to get that boot.

But the AMEX Platinum is the first one I've gotten outside of that model, and while the lounge access has already been great I'm interested in how the travel options work. I just got it so don't have any points in my account yet, so when I go to their portal they don't show me how many points things cost. I had a promotional $99 companion fare on Alaska that was about to expire so I booked flights for the lady and I to Kona in November, hoping to use the AMEX points to cover at least some of the lodging. If no good options I'll look at Marriott or Hilton properties and likely just use points there.
No real reason to use points in the portal (same with Chase, Cap1, Citi) and never book with cash through it unless you're booking a Hotel Collection or Fine Hotels and Resorts property to get the credit. Otherwise, portals are poor value and transferring points to partners is better if you have them to use, and if not just book directly with the airline/hotel and get their rewards (you don't earn rewards through, for example, Marriott if you book through AMEX unless it's a Fine Hotel and Resort and even that's not a sure thing.) I know you earn 5X AMEX points if you book through the portal but I usually make out better booking direct. Plus, if there's an issue, you're dealing with Expedia or whoever operates the AMEX portal instead of the airline/hotel itself.

Hilton and Marriott are both partners, fwiw, so you can transfer your points directly to them.
Is this just a hotel thing? Chase gives 1.25 back when redeeming through the portal so that 5% I got when booking tickets now becomes 6.25% when redeeming those points. I only use points for flights since I predominantly book airbnbs and turos.
I almost certainly overgeneralized if we're talking all card options. I guess the bottom line is compare all the different ways you can book something and choose the best option. AMEX Plat (focusing on this since that's the card being discussed) gives 5X on purchases made directly with airlines so no real reason to book plane trips on the AMEX portal even if just for the potential customer service issues mentioned earlier. Unless there's a significant price difference but that's unlikely. And I'm sure the redemption value of the rewards is better if you transfer directly to the airline instead of using the portal. Of course, the airline/hotel may not be a transfer partner so that's a whole different set of decisions.

For hotels, it depends if you want your status recognized (it likely won't be recognized if booked through the portal EXCEPT for Fine Hotels). Then, if you have a cobranded card for the hotel chain you normally use and maybe there's a promotion which effectively boosts the rewards earned. Then decide if 5X AMEX points for booking through the portal is worth more to you than whatever you get in the hotel loyalty program plus recognized status and easier customer service resolution by booking direct. The AMEX points are more flexible so all things being equal, sure, use the portal. And, if it's a hotel chain you almost never use so status/rewards don't matter, then the portal is fine (but again, remember changes and other customer service issues will be more of a hassle.)

Also @SFBayDuck if you are having trouble thinking of how to use the AMEX $200 airline credit and you ever fly United, make them your selected airline and use the United Travel Bank. You can deposit $200 annually at United and it's credited back to your AMEX account. Essentially, "free" (using quotes because of the annual fee) $200 towards a United flight every year - need to use it within 4 years.
Ok, so for something like the chase sapphire, might make sense to redeem in the portal since you're getting the 25% bonus when doing so. You could transfer but you'd need $.0125 per mile to match that and from my personal experience on united, you're not getting that. maybe that's just a united thing or maybe its just been the flights i've been.
All my Chase points pretty much end up at Hyatt since they cut the main PYB categories I used. Very easy to get better than that value per point at Hyatts.
I've never found it better to use my UR points in the portal vs transferring out to Hyatt or an airline.
If you run across a really good airline fare it can be worth it. I found a great fare a bit back ATL-LIH for $300. With the Reserve I paid ~40,000 pts for a couple seats.
 
Those with tsp, or want to chine in, got a question...

I'm 44 and have been in 2045 target retirement fund for a while. I'm not liking the amount of bonds they have and thinking about just going 80/20 for (C/S).

Is there a downside in just moving everything over? Not sure the whole bought low thing applies with a 401(k) like this.
 
Those with tsp, or want to chine in, got a question...

I'm 44 and have been in 2045 target retirement fund for a while. I'm not liking the amount of bonds they have and thinking about just going 80/20 for (C/S).

Is there a downside in just moving everything over? Not sure the whole bought low thing applies with a 401(k) like this.

In the L2045 fund, only 7% is invested in the F fund (bonds). Maybe your issue is with the G (treasuries) fund, which is 16% of the portfolio?

If I had 20 years left to work, I might not bother with F, definitely not with G yet. If I had 10 years left I'd be thinking about building a position. But just sticking it into L2045 and forgetting about it is a good approach. Moving all into C/S at the moment means buying a lot of US stocks at relatively high prices, and reducing international equities and bonds exposure. Risk level is higher. Over 20 years, shouldn't hurt you any.

I hate my I and F funds. Useless, over a long period of time. But as they say, "if you don't hate some portion of your investments, you aren't diversified enough".
 
Those with tsp, or want to chine in, got a question...

I'm 44 and have been in 2045 target retirement fund for a while. I'm not liking the amount of bonds they have and thinking about just going 80/20 for (C/S).

Is there a downside in just moving everything over? Not sure the whole bought low thing applies with a 401(k) like this.

In the L2045 fund, only 7% is invested in the F fund (bonds). Maybe your issue is with the G (treasuries) fund, which is 16% of the portfolio?

If I had 20 years left to work, I might not bother with F, definitely not with G yet. If I had 10 years left I'd be thinking about building a position. But just sticking it into L2045 and forgetting about it is a good approach. Moving all into C/S at the moment means buying a lot of US stocks at relatively high prices, and reducing international equities and bonds exposure. Risk level is higher. Over 20 years, shouldn't hurt you any.

I hate my I and F funds. Useless, over a long period of time. But as they say, "if you don't hate some portion of your investments, you aren't diversified enough".

:yes:
20 years out, 16% cash (G fund) is way too much imo. Especially for those who will receive a decent pension. But my acceptance of risk is not yours or anyone else’s.

I plan to retire in the 2030s and am currently 50/50 c/s. I Miswrote earlier in this thread, I do have some bonds in my traditional IRA as I have 80% of that account in the Paul Merriman ultimate. But bonds equal 20% of that account / 5% total.

It’s tough to switch your large account at all time highs but if you’re mentally able to move it and ignore it for the next few years, it’s probably a good move to do so. Just ask yourself how you’d feel if the account dropped 20-40% through the rest of 2024.

I like international as an asset category but VXUS or VEA and VWO seem better than the I fund.

I do think that for most people who don’t want to mess with things, a Lifecycle fund is a good way to go. Coincidentally, my wife and I were just talking about the benefits of simplicity vs optimization and what she would do if I weren’t here. L2045 is probably a B+ simple solution for most. It’s probably what I’d suggest she does so she can focus on other things. But she’s also more risk averse than I am and needs less risk because she’d lose a lot in pensions while gaining $750k in life insurance.

That’s all just to say you need to know yourself including how you feel about losing money. Keeping it is a fine option.
 
Not sure if this should go here or the retirement thread, but here goes:

I’ve done a good job at contributing into my 401k - I’ve been maxing out my contributions recently and it’s in good shape for me to retire in 8-10 years.

I’m thinking about using catch-up contributions later this year once I hit my max but have two questions:

A) A large majority of my retirement savings is in my pre-tax 401K. I’m considering making my catch-up contributions into a Roth option rather than a pre-tax so I can balance my retirement tax exposure a little. Does this make sense to mix things up a little, or do I stick with pre-tax contributions given my current higher tax levels? I will probably do some Roth conversions in early retirement before SS kicks in and my tax bracket is lower.

2) Am I better served using these funds to just increase my payments to my kids’ student loans (both currently still in school)? My 401K is already in pretty good shape and one of my big goals pre-retirement is to help have these loans paid off.

Thanks in advance y’all!
 
Not sure if this should go here or the retirement thread, but here goes:

I’ve done a good job at contributing into my 401k - I’ve been maxing out my contributions recently and it’s in good shape for me to retire in 8-10 years.

I’m thinking about using catch-up contributions later this year once I hit my max but have two questions:

A) A large majority of my retirement savings is in my pre-tax 401K. I’m considering making my catch-up contributions into a Roth option rather than a pre-tax so I can balance my retirement tax exposure a little. Does this make sense to mix things up a little, or do I stick with pre-tax contributions given my current higher tax levels? I will probably do some Roth conversions in early retirement before SS kicks in and my tax bracket is lower.

2) Am I better served using these funds to just increase my payments to my kids’ student loans (both currently still in school)? My 401K is already in pretty good shape and one of my big goals pre-retirement is to help have these loans paid off.

Thanks in advance y’all!
I'm pretty conservative about these things so would really want to be debt free going into retirement. As far as location of funds it comes down to current vs. future rates you'll personally experience. Nothing wrong with spreading the funds out a bit if it looks marginal. And don't forget that if you have the opportunity definitely do Roth conversions after retirement - you want to pay low taxes on those (maybe max out the 12% space) and that will help get you more balanced. Also, depending on your age and how long you have to bridge to eligibility to access retirement accounts you may even want to stock extra monies into taxable.
 
Not sure if this should go here or the retirement thread, but here goes:

I’ve done a good job at contributing into my 401k - I’ve been maxing out my contributions recently and it’s in good shape for me to retire in 8-10 years.

I’m thinking about using catch-up contributions later this year once I hit my max but have two questions:

A) A large majority of my retirement savings is in my pre-tax 401K. I’m considering making my catch-up contributions into a Roth option rather than a pre-tax so I can balance my retirement tax exposure a little. Does this make sense to mix things up a little, or do I stick with pre-tax contributions given my current higher tax levels? I will probably do some Roth conversions in early retirement before SS kicks in and my tax bracket is lower.

2) Am I better served using these funds to just increase my payments to my kids’ student loans (both currently still in school)? My 401K is already in pretty good shape and one of my big goals pre-retirement is to help have these loans paid off.

Thanks in advance y’all!
I'm pretty conservative about these things so would really want to be debt free going into retirement. As far as location of funds it comes down to current vs. future rates you'll personally experience. Nothing wrong with spreading the funds out a bit if it looks marginal. And don't forget that if you have the opportunity definitely do Roth conversions after retirement - you want to pay low taxes on those (maybe max out the 12% space) and that will help get you more balanced. Also, depending on your age and how long you have to bridge to eligibility to access retirement accounts you may even want to stock extra monies into taxable.
Thanks Sand!
 
I think this thread is the appropriate spot so I will post here. If someone thinks another thread is appropriate please let me know. I am retired (so is my wife) and I started taking early Social Security last year at 62. Last year I finally got around to looking at what required minimum distribution might look for me and my wife and it was eye opening. We have money in non retirement investments but a significant portion in traditional IRA/401Ks. RMD is going to hammer us when it kicks in for both of us in the 200-300K a year income range depending on how well the investments grow. So last year we started taking 100K out of my 401K (my RMD will hit first) and moving to a Roth IRA. Taking a tax hit now but trying to minimize the tax hit that is coming later. Any suggestions on investments we should be considering that might mitigate the RMD tax hits coming or should we be taking even more out now? Wondering if we should be trying to max the 22% tax bracket just because it will be worse later.
 
I think this thread is the appropriate spot so I will post here. If someone thinks another thread is appropriate please let me know. I am retired (so is my wife) and I started taking early Social Security last year at 62. Last year I finally got around to looking at what required minimum distribution might look for me and my wife and it was eye opening. We have money in non retirement investments but a significant portion in traditional IRA/401Ks. RMD is going to hammer us when it kicks in for both of us in the 200-300K a year income range depending on how well the investments grow. So last year we started taking 100K out of my 401K (my RMD will hit first) and moving to a Roth IRA. Taking a tax hit now but trying to minimize the tax hit that is coming later. Any suggestions on investments we should be considering that might mitigate the RMD tax hits coming or should we be taking even more out now? Wondering if we should be trying to max the 22% tax bracket just because it will be worse later.
I don't think there are any magic investments that help you get around RMDs. But the rest of what you said makes sense, it's just running the math to minimize it as much as you can. It's a good problem to have though.
 
I think this thread is the appropriate spot so I will post here. If someone thinks another thread is appropriate please let me know. I am retired (so is my wife) and I started taking early Social Security last year at 62. Last year I finally got around to looking at what required minimum distribution might look for me and my wife and it was eye opening. We have money in non retirement investments but a significant portion in traditional IRA/401Ks. RMD is going to hammer us when it kicks in for both of us in the 200-300K a year income range depending on how well the investments grow. So last year we started taking 100K out of my 401K (my RMD will hit first) and moving to a Roth IRA. Taking a tax hit now but trying to minimize the tax hit that is coming later. Any suggestions on investments we should be considering that might mitigate the RMD tax hits coming or should we be taking even more out now? Wondering if we should be trying to max the 22% tax bracket just because it will be worse later.
I don't think there are any magic investments that help you get around RMDs. But the rest of what you said makes sense, it's just running the math to minimize it as much as you can. It's a good problem to have though.
Thanks (and agreed). I was pondering tax free investments but those interest rates are typically pretty low and we're looking 10 to 15 years out before encountering the RMDs and I don't want a lot of money piling up (I think) in those types of investments. I need to take a closer look at our expected tax rates and what might happen if we start maxing the 22% bracket with IRA/401K withdrawals. I am expecting tax rates to only get worse going forward which also is a factor.
 
I am 50 and was recently let go by my employer after 30 years. We were acquired a few years back and they decided to close our facility and move it.

I have a large sum of money in my 401k. Looking to roll it over into a Traditional IRA where my Roth is located.
I do not want to keep it in my current 401k and I do not want to roll it over into new 401k.

This is the right move correct?
 
I am 50 and was recently let go by my employer after 30 years. We were acquired a few years back and they decided to close our facility and move it.

I have a large sum of money in my 401k. Looking to roll it over into a Traditional IRA where my Roth is located.
I do not want to keep it in my current 401k and I do not want to roll it over into new 401k.

This is the right move correct?
Im not sure how the age and catch up contributions work but rolling it into a traditional IRA effectively removes your ability to contribute a backdoor Roth IRA.

That may not be meaningful at all. But should be considered if it is.
 
I am 50 and was recently let go by my employer after 30 years. We were acquired a few years back and they decided to close our facility and move it.

I have a large sum of money in my 401k. Looking to roll it over into a Traditional IRA where my Roth is located.
I do not want to keep it in my current 401k and I do not want to roll it over into new 401k.

This is the right move correct?
What Instinctive said. What is the reason you don't want to keep it in the current 401K? Make sure to talk through all your options with the bank/firm that holds the 401K (no need to involve your former company) because they might have self directed brokerage where you can invest it however you want without giving up the advantage of having it in a 401K. And if you get new employment you might be able to roll it into the new 401K.
 
I am 50 and was recently let go by my employer after 30 years. We were acquired a few years back and they decided to close our facility and move it.

I have a large sum of money in my 401k. Looking to roll it over into a Traditional IRA where my Roth is located.
I do not want to keep it in my current 401k and I do not want to roll it over into new 401k.

This is the right move correct?
Also check state law on how protected IRAs are. In my state both IRAs and 401ks are judgment proof, so you can't be sued out of that money. Some states don't offer that level of protection. Just a thought.
 
I am 50 and was recently let go by my employer after 30 years. We were acquired a few years back and they decided to close our facility and move it.

I have a large sum of money in my 401k. Looking to roll it over into a Traditional IRA where my Roth is located.
I do not want to keep it in my current 401k and I do not want to roll it over into new 401k.

This is the right move correct?
What Instinctive said. What is the reason you don't want to keep it in the current 401K? Make sure to talk through all your options with the bank/firm that holds the 401K (no need to involve your former company) because they might have self directed brokerage where you can invest it however you want without giving up the advantage of having it in a 401K. And if you get new employment you might be able to roll it into the new 401K.
I can roll it into my new 401k. I'm just not sure I want to.

Currently my 401k is at Empower. Haven't been a fan of theirs. Looking to move to Fidelity where my Roth is. Feel there are more options and the customer support has been better.

What is the "advatage(s)" of keeping it in a 401k over an IRA?
 
I am 50 and was recently let go by my employer after 30 years. We were acquired a few years back and they decided to close our facility and move it.

I have a large sum of money in my 401k. Looking to roll it over into a Traditional IRA where my Roth is located.
I do not want to keep it in my current 401k and I do not want to roll it over into new 401k.

This is the right move correct?
What Instinctive said. What is the reason you don't want to keep it in the current 401K? Make sure to talk through all your options with the bank/firm that holds the 401K (no need to involve your former company) because they might have self directed brokerage where you can invest it however you want without giving up the advantage of having it in a 401K. And if you get new employment you might be able to roll it into the new 401K.
I can roll it into my new 401k. I'm just not sure I want to.

Currently my 401k is at Empower. Haven't been a fan of theirs. Looking to move to Fidelity where my Roth is. Feel there are more options and the customer support has been better.

What is the "advatage(s)" of keeping it in a 401k over an IRA?
My financial guy always has roll into IRA. The reason is basically just a clean break and the IRA is a bit more flexible. (Now this is based off my 401ks). Now by law all your current 401k funds are protected so going out of business is not really a concern since it's not held by your employer.
 
I am 50 and was recently let go by my employer after 30 years. We were acquired a few years back and they decided to close our facility and move it.

I have a large sum of money in my 401k. Looking to roll it over into a Traditional IRA where my Roth is located.
I do not want to keep it in my current 401k and I do not want to roll it over into new 401k.

This is the right move correct?
What Instinctive said. What is the reason you don't want to keep it in the current 401K? Make sure to talk through all your options with the bank/firm that holds the 401K (no need to involve your former company) because they might have self directed brokerage where you can invest it however you want without giving up the advantage of having it in a 401K. And if you get new employment you might be able to roll it into the new 401K.
I can roll it into my new 401k. I'm just not sure I want to.

Currently my 401k is at Empower. Haven't been a fan of theirs. Looking to move to Fidelity where my Roth is. Feel there are more options and the customer support has been better.

What is the "advatage(s)" of keeping it in a 401k over an IRA?
The advantage is maintaining the ability to do backdoor Roth IRA contributions without pro rate taxation (penalties, more or less). It's a method to get extra money into a Roth IRA, which is among the best possible retirement savings vehicles.

If you're under the income limit anyway, it doesn't matter. Beyond that, i can't think of any advantages to keeping it int he old 401(k). But not being able to convert post-tax traditional IRA contribution to Roth without additional tax is a big loss if you'd like to take advantage of that.
 
I am 50 and was recently let go by my employer after 30 years. We were acquired a few years back and they decided to close our facility and move it.

I have a large sum of money in my 401k. Looking to roll it over into a Traditional IRA where my Roth is located.
I do not want to keep it in my current 401k and I do not want to roll it over into new 401k.

This is the right move correct?
What Instinctive said. What is the reason you don't want to keep it in the current 401K? Make sure to talk through all your options with the bank/firm that holds the 401K (no need to involve your former company) because they might have self directed brokerage where you can invest it however you want without giving up the advantage of having it in a 401K. And if you get new employment you might be able to roll it into the new 401K.
I can roll it into my new 401k. I'm just not sure I want to.

Currently my 401k is at Empower. Haven't been a fan of theirs. Looking to move to Fidelity where my Roth is. Feel there are more options and the customer support has been better.

What is the "advatage(s)" of keeping it in a 401k over an IRA?
The advantage is maintaining the ability to do backdoor Roth IRA contributions without pro rate taxation (penalties, more or less). It's a method to get extra money into a Roth IRA, which is among the best possible retirement savings vehicles.

If you're under the income limit anyway, it doesn't matter. Beyond that, i can't think of any advantages to keeping it int he old 401(k). But not being able to convert post-tax traditional IRA contribution to Roth without additional tax is a big loss if you'd like to take advantage of that.
I thought the strategy was to convert to a traditional IRA and then slowly move to a Roth while minimizing the tax on the transfer?
 
I am 50 and was recently let go by my employer after 30 years. We were acquired a few years back and they decided to close our facility and move it.

I have a large sum of money in my 401k. Looking to roll it over into a Traditional IRA where my Roth is located.
I do not want to keep it in my current 401k and I do not want to roll it over into new 401k.

This is the right move correct?
Also check state law on how protected IRAs are. In my state both IRAs and 401ks are judgment proof, so you can't be sued out of that money. Some states don't offer that level of protection. Just a thought.
👍🏽 https://www.companiesinc.com/asset-protection/ira-lawsuit-protection-by-state/
 
A couple of very basic questions here - the annual max contribution to a 401K is like $23,000 (plus the $7,000 catch-up, if you're old like me). Is that per spouse or per household? In other words, can I contribute $30,000/year to my 401K with my wife also contributing $30,000?

Also, we're right up against the household income limit for being able to contribute to a Roth IRA (based on our gross salaries). But if we make pre-tax contributions to our 401K that put us under that limit, then we can also contribute to a Roth, right? In other words, if we make $240K a year but contribute $50K to a 401K, then is our AGI $190K thus allowing us to make Roth contributions?
 
I am 50 and was recently let go by my employer after 30 years. We were acquired a few years back and they decided to close our facility and move it.

I have a large sum of money in my 401k. Looking to roll it over into a Traditional IRA where my Roth is located.
I do not want to keep it in my current 401k and I do not want to roll it over into new 401k.

This is the right move correct?
What Instinctive said. What is the reason you don't want to keep it in the current 401K? Make sure to talk through all your options with the bank/firm that holds the 401K (no need to involve your former company) because they might have self directed brokerage where you can invest it however you want without giving up the advantage of having it in a 401K. And if you get new employment you might be able to roll it into the new 401K.
I can roll it into my new 401k. I'm just not sure I want to.

Currently my 401k is at Empower. Haven't been a fan of theirs. Looking to move to Fidelity where my Roth is. Feel there are more options and the customer support has been better.

What is the "advatage(s)" of keeping it in a 401k over an IRA?
The advantage is maintaining the ability to do backdoor Roth IRA contributions without pro rate taxation (penalties, more or less). It's a method to get extra money into a Roth IRA, which is among the best possible retirement savings vehicles.

If you're under the income limit anyway, it doesn't matter. Beyond that, i can't think of any advantages to keeping it int he old 401(k). But not being able to convert post-tax traditional IRA contribution to Roth without additional tax is a big loss if you'd like to take advantage of that.
I thought the strategy was to convert to a traditional IRA and then slowly move to a Roth while minimizing the tax on the transfer?
That's just a Roth ladder, which many do once they are in early retirement and taking distributions from 401(k) without other income, and you're just making normal contributions to an IRA that is Roth.

Different things:
1. Over the income limit to contribute to a Roth IRA, use an after-tax Traditional IRA contribution and then immediately convert 100% of it to Roth IRA - the "backdoor Roth". This CANNOT be done if you have any funds that are pre-tax in any traditional IRA bcause of pro rata conversion rules.

2. Roth laddering is an early retirement strategy to take distributions that keep you low tax and still below the Roth IRA contribution cap, so you can get more money into tax free growth and withdrawal from your traditional retirement accounts.


if you're 50, and you just got let go, and you don't plan to go get a job that's like $140k+ income per year, then you don't care about #1. But if you are going to have a job that pays that much, you may want that tool to remain available to you.
 
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A couple of very basic questions here - the annual max contribution to a 401K is like $23,000 (plus the $7,000 catch-up, if you're old like me). Is that per spouse or per household? In other words, can I contribute $30,000/year to my 401K with my wife also contributing $30,000?

Also, we're right up against the household income limit for being able to contribute to a Roth IRA (based on our gross salaries). But if we make pre-tax contributions to our 401K that put us under that limit, then we can also contribute to a Roth, right? In other words, if we make $240K a year but contribute $50K to a 401K, then is our AGI $190K thus allowing us to make Roth contributions?
Per person. 401(k)s are individual, employer sponsored accounts.

So yes and no. Your wife can't contribute to your 401(k). She can contribute to her employer's plan.

To the Roth IRA question - that income limit is on Modified AGI, which is AGI with some deductions added back. Here's a good primer on what those deductions are - I don't see 401(k) on it, so should be good? https://www.nerdwallet.com/article/taxes/modified-adjusted-gross-income-magi

I'm very much not a CPA so always consider asking a CPA.
 
A couple of very basic questions here - the annual max contribution to a 401K is like $23,000 (plus the $7,000 catch-up, if you're old like me). Is that per spouse or per household? In other words, can I contribute $30,000/year to my 401K with my wife also contributing $30,000?

Also, we're right up against the household income limit for being able to contribute to a Roth IRA (based on our gross salaries). But if we make pre-tax contributions to our 401K that put us under that limit, then we can also contribute to a Roth, right? In other words, if we make $240K a year but contribute $50K to a 401K, then is our AGI $190K thus allowing us to make Roth contributions?
Per person. 401(k)s are individual, employer sponsored accounts.

So yes and no. Your wife can't contribute to your 401(k). She can contribute to her employer's plan.

To the Roth IRA question - that income limit is on Modified AGI, which is AGI with some deductions added back. Here's a good primer on what those deductions are - I don't see 401(k) on it, so should be good? https://www.nerdwallet.com/article/taxes/modified-adjusted-gross-income-magi

I'm very much not a CPA so always consider asking a CPA.
I meant to ask if my wife could also contribute the max to her employer's plan, not to my account (though we do happen to work for the same employer). Thanks!
 
A couple of very basic questions here - the annual max contribution to a 401K is like $23,000 (plus the $7,000 catch-up, if you're old like me). Is that per spouse or per household? In other words, can I contribute $30,000/year to my 401K with my wife also contributing $30,000?

Also, we're right up against the household income limit for being able to contribute to a Roth IRA (based on our gross salaries). But if we make pre-tax contributions to our 401K that put us under that limit, then we can also contribute to a Roth, right? In other words, if we make $240K a year but contribute $50K to a 401K, then is our AGI $190K thus allowing us to make Roth contributions?
Per person. 401(k)s are individual, employer sponsored accounts.

So yes and no. Your wife can't contribute to your 401(k). She can contribute to her employer's plan.

To the Roth IRA question - that income limit is on Modified AGI, which is AGI with some deductions added back. Here's a good primer on what those deductions are - I don't see 401(k) on it, so should be good? https://www.nerdwallet.com/article/taxes/modified-adjusted-gross-income-magi

I'm very much not a CPA so always consider asking a CPA.
I meant to ask if my wife could also contribute the max to her employer's plan, not to my account (though we do happen to work for the same employer). Thanks!
Then yes! Just wanted to be clear/helpful as can be. Also thats awesome my wife and I also work at same company!
 
I am 50 and was recently let go by my employer after 30 years. We were acquired a few years back and they decided to close our facility and move it.

I have a large sum of money in my 401k. Looking to roll it over into a Traditional IRA where my Roth is located.
I do not want to keep it in my current 401k and I do not want to roll it over into new 401k.

This is the right move correct?
What Instinctive said. What is the reason you don't want to keep it in the current 401K? Make sure to talk through all your options with the bank/firm that holds the 401K (no need to involve your former company) because they might have self directed brokerage where you can invest it however you want without giving up the advantage of having it in a 401K. And if you get new employment you might be able to roll it into the new 401K.
I can roll it into my new 401k. I'm just not sure I want to.

Currently my 401k is at Empower. Haven't been a fan of theirs. Looking to move to Fidelity where my Roth is. Feel there are more options and the customer support has been better.

What is the "advatage(s)" of keeping it in a 401k over an IRA?
The advantage is maintaining the ability to do backdoor Roth IRA contributions without pro rate taxation (penalties, more or less). It's a method to get extra money into a Roth IRA, which is among the best possible retirement savings vehicles.

If you're under the income limit anyway, it doesn't matter. Beyond that, i can't think of any advantages to keeping it int he old 401(k). But not being able to convert post-tax traditional IRA contribution to Roth without additional tax is a big loss if you'd like to take advantage of that.
I thought the strategy was to convert to a traditional IRA and then slowly move to a Roth while minimizing the tax on the transfer?
That's just a Roth ladder, which many do once they are in early retirement and taking distributions from 401(k) without other income, and you're just making normal contributions to an IRA that is Roth.

Different things:
1. Over the income limit to contribute to a Roth IRA, use an after-tax Traditional IRA contribution and then immediately convert 100% of it to Roth IRA - the "backdoor Roth". This CANNOT be done if you have any funds that are pre-tax in any traditional 401(k) bcause of pro rata conversion rules.

2. Roth laddering is an early retirement strategy to take distributions that keep you low tax and still below the Roth IRA contribution cap, so you can get more money into tax free growth and withdrawal from your traditional retirement accounts.


if you're 50, and you just got let go, and you don't plan to go get a job that's like $140k+ income per year, then you don't care about #1. But if you are going to have a job that pays that much, you may want that tool to remain available to you.
Every time I feel like I have a good grasp on things, I read something like your post and immediately feel like I know very little.

Appreciate your time. Perhaps I need to go find a pro for some advice. Take care
 
I am 50 and was recently let go by my employer after 30 years. We were acquired a few years back and they decided to close our facility and move it.

I have a large sum of money in my 401k. Looking to roll it over into a Traditional IRA where my Roth is located.
I do not want to keep it in my current 401k and I do not want to roll it over into new 401k.

This is the right move correct?
What Instinctive said. What is the reason you don't want to keep it in the current 401K? Make sure to talk through all your options with the bank/firm that holds the 401K (no need to involve your former company) because they might have self directed brokerage where you can invest it however you want without giving up the advantage of having it in a 401K. And if you get new employment you might be able to roll it into the new 401K.
I can roll it into my new 401k. I'm just not sure I want to.

Currently my 401k is at Empower. Haven't been a fan of theirs. Looking to move to Fidelity where my Roth is. Feel there are more options and the customer support has been better.

What is the "advatage(s)" of keeping it in a 401k over an IRA?
The advantage is maintaining the ability to do backdoor Roth IRA contributions without pro rate taxation (penalties, more or less). It's a method to get extra money into a Roth IRA, which is among the best possible retirement savings vehicles.

If you're under the income limit anyway, it doesn't matter. Beyond that, i can't think of any advantages to keeping it int he old 401(k). But not being able to convert post-tax traditional IRA contribution to Roth without additional tax is a big loss if you'd like to take advantage of that.
I thought the strategy was to convert to a traditional IRA and then slowly move to a Roth while minimizing the tax on the transfer?
That's just a Roth ladder, which many do once they are in early retirement and taking distributions from 401(k) without other income, and you're just making normal contributions to an IRA that is Roth.

Different things:
1. Over the income limit to contribute to a Roth IRA, use an after-tax Traditional IRA contribution and then immediately convert 100% of it to Roth IRA - the "backdoor Roth". This CANNOT be done if you have any funds that are pre-tax in any traditional 401(k) bcause of pro rata conversion rules.

2. Roth laddering is an early retirement strategy to take distributions that keep you low tax and still below the Roth IRA contribution cap, so you can get more money into tax free growth and withdrawal from your traditional retirement accounts.


if you're 50, and you just got let go, and you don't plan to go get a job that's like $140k+ income per year, then you don't care about #1. But if you are going to have a job that pays that much, you may want that tool to remain available to you.
In #1 you meant "traditional IRA" not "traditional 401k"
 
A couple of very basic questions here - the annual max contribution to a 401K is like $23,000 (plus the $7,000 catch-up, if you're old like me). Is that per spouse or per household? In other words, can I contribute $30,000/year to my 401K with my wife also contributing $30,000?

Also, we're right up against the household income limit for being able to contribute to a Roth IRA (based on our gross salaries). But if we make pre-tax contributions to our 401K that put us under that limit, then we can also contribute to a Roth, right? In other words, if we make $240K a year but contribute $50K to a 401K, then is our AGI $190K thus allowing us to make Roth contributions?
If you're up against it I'd just do it backdoor anyway. Doesn't hurt. And I like to get it in as soon as I can, first of the year, invested as soon as possible. If you did that an unexpected raise or bonus could put you over.
 
A couple of very basic questions here - the annual max contribution to a 401K is like $23,000 (plus the $7,000 catch-up, if you're old like me). Is that per spouse or per household? In other words, can I contribute $30,000/year to my 401K with my wife also contributing $30,000?

Also, we're right up against the household income limit for being able to contribute to a Roth IRA (based on our gross salaries). But if we make pre-tax contributions to our 401K that put us under that limit, then we can also contribute to a Roth, right? In other words, if we make $240K a year but contribute $50K to a 401K, then is our AGI $190K thus allowing us to make Roth contributions?
Yes and yes. You can max contribute and so can she (and you both can get matches on your contributions and those don’t count towards your max limits - there is another limit for that that hardly anyone ever hits).

Roth contributions ability is based on AGI. A 401k contribution directly lowers your taxable income, so it would lower your AGI.

Confirm with your tax advisor.
 
I am 50 and was recently let go by my employer after 30 years. We were acquired a few years back and they decided to close our facility and move it.

I have a large sum of money in my 401k. Looking to roll it over into a Traditional IRA where my Roth is located.
I do not want to keep it in my current 401k and I do not want to roll it over into new 401k.

This is the right move correct?
What Instinctive said. What is the reason you don't want to keep it in the current 401K? Make sure to talk through all your options with the bank/firm that holds the 401K (no need to involve your former company) because they might have self directed brokerage where you can invest it however you want without giving up the advantage of having it in a 401K. And if you get new employment you might be able to roll it into the new 401K.
I can roll it into my new 401k. I'm just not sure I want to.

Currently my 401k is at Empower. Haven't been a fan of theirs. Looking to move to Fidelity where my Roth is. Feel there are more options and the customer support has been better.

What is the "advatage(s)" of keeping it in a 401k over an IRA?
The advantage is maintaining the ability to do backdoor Roth IRA contributions without pro rate taxation (penalties, more or less). It's a method to get extra money into a Roth IRA, which is among the best possible retirement savings vehicles.

If you're under the income limit anyway, it doesn't matter. Beyond that, i can't think of any advantages to keeping it int he old 401(k). But not being able to convert post-tax traditional IRA contribution to Roth without additional tax is a big loss if you'd like to take advantage of that.
I thought the strategy was to convert to a traditional IRA and then slowly move to a Roth while minimizing the tax on the transfer?
That's just a Roth ladder, which many do once they are in early retirement and taking distributions from 401(k) without other income, and you're just making normal contributions to an IRA that is Roth.

Different things:
1. Over the income limit to contribute to a Roth IRA, use an after-tax Traditional IRA contribution and then immediately convert 100% of it to Roth IRA - the "backdoor Roth". This CANNOT be done if you have any funds that are pre-tax in any traditional IRA because of pro rata conversion rules.

2. Roth laddering is an early retirement strategy to take distributions that keep you low tax and still below the Roth IRA contribution cap, so you can get more money into tax free growth and withdrawal from your traditional retirement accounts.


if you're 50, and you just got let go, and you don't plan to go get a job that's like $140k+ income per year, then you don't care about #1. But if you are going to have a job that pays that much, you may want that tool to remain available to you.
In #1 you meant "traditional IRA" not "traditional 401k"
Corrected - thanks :)
 
A couple of very basic questions here - the annual max contribution to a 401K is like $23,000 (plus the $7,000 catch-up, if you're old like me). Is that per spouse or per household? In other words, can I contribute $30,000/year to my 401K with my wife also contributing $30,000?

Also, we're right up against the household income limit for being able to contribute to a Roth IRA (based on our gross salaries). But if we make pre-tax contributions to our 401K that put us under that limit, then we can also contribute to a Roth, right? In other words, if we make $240K a year but contribute $50K to a 401K, then is our AGI $190K thus allowing us to make Roth contributions?
Per person. 401(k)s are individual, employer sponsored accounts.

So yes and no. Your wife can't contribute to your 401(k). She can contribute to her employer's plan.

To the Roth IRA question - that income limit is on Modified AGI, which is AGI with some deductions added back. Here's a good primer on what those deductions are - I don't see 401(k) on it, so should be good? https://www.nerdwallet.com/article/taxes/modified-adjusted-gross-income-magi

I'm very much not a CPA so always consider asking a CPA.
I meant to ask if my wife could also contribute the max to her employer's plan, not to my account (though we do happen to work for the same employer). Thanks!
Then yes! Just wanted to be clear/helpful as can be. Also thats awesome my wife and I also work at same company!
A couple of very basic questions here - the annual max contribution to a 401K is like $23,000 (plus the $7,000 catch-up, if you're old like me). Is that per spouse or per household? In other words, can I contribute $30,000/year to my 401K with my wife also contributing $30,000?

Also, we're right up against the household income limit for being able to contribute to a Roth IRA (based on our gross salaries). But if we make pre-tax contributions to our 401K that put us under that limit, then we can also contribute to a Roth, right? In other words, if we make $240K a year but contribute $50K to a 401K, then is our AGI $190K thus allowing us to make Roth contributions?
Per person. 401(k)s are individual, employer sponsored accounts.

So yes and no. Your wife can't contribute to your 401(k). She can contribute to her employer's plan.

To the Roth IRA question - that income limit is on Modified AGI, which is AGI with some deductions added back. Here's a good primer on what those deductions are - I don't see 401(k) on it, so should be good? https://www.nerdwallet.com/article/taxes/modified-adjusted-gross-income-magi

I'm very much not a CPA so always consider asking a CPA.
I meant to ask if my wife could also contribute the max to her employer's plan, not to my account (though we do happen to work for the same employer). Thanks!

A couple of very basic questions here - the annual max contribution to a 401K is like $23,000 (plus the $7,000 catch-up, if you're old like me). Is that per spouse or per household? In other words, can I contribute $30,000/year to my 401K with my wife also contributing $30,000?

Also, we're right up against the household income limit for being able to contribute to a Roth IRA (based on our gross salaries). But if we make pre-tax contributions to our 401K that put us under that limit, then we can also contribute to a Roth, right? In other words, if we make $240K a year but contribute $50K to a 401K, then is our AGI $190K thus allowing us to make Roth contributions?
Per person. 401(k)s are individual, employer sponsored accounts.

So yes and no. Your wife can't contribute to your 401(k). She can contribute to her employer's plan.

To the Roth IRA question - that income limit is on Modified AGI, which is AGI with some deductions added back. Here's a good primer on what those deductions are - I don't see 401(k) on it, so should be good? https://www.nerdwallet.com/article/taxes/modified-adjusted-gross-income-magi

I'm very much not a CPA so always consider asking a CPA.
I meant to ask if my wife could also contribute the max to her employer's plan, not to my account (though we do happen to work for the same employer). Thanks!
Then yes! Just wanted to be clear/helpful as can be. Also thats awesome my wife and I also work at same company!

Are you me? Wife and i also at the same place.
 
I think this thread is the appropriate spot so I will post here. If someone thinks another thread is appropriate please let me know. I am retired (so is my wife) and I started taking early Social Security last year at 62. Last year I finally got around to looking at what required minimum distribution might look for me and my wife and it was eye opening. We have money in non retirement investments but a significant portion in traditional IRA/401Ks. RMD is going to hammer us when it kicks in for both of us in the 200-300K a year income range depending on how well the investments grow. So last year we started taking 100K out of my 401K (my RMD will hit first) and moving to a Roth IRA. Taking a tax hit now but trying to minimize the tax hit that is coming later. Any suggestions on investments we should be considering that might mitigate the RMD tax hits coming or should we be taking even more out now? Wondering if we should be trying to max the 22% tax bracket just because it will be worse later.
A small item that might help a little - make sure Roth is 100% stock then invest traditional in whatever gets you to your overall target allocation. Should result in more bonds in the traditional which means smaller balance come RMD time. Basically make Roth max growth.
 
Every time I feel like I have a good grasp on things, I read something like your post and immediately feel like I know very little.

Don't worry, this stuff is so confusing. I think even reading a thread like this, you're more educated than 99% of the population.

There were a couple of tax things I had to deal with this year that made my brain absolutely melt, even getting input from my fiduciary.
 
Trying to roll over a Roth 401K from an employer into a Roth IRA:
Three options on Fidelity are:
Rollover IRA
Traditional IRA
Roth IRA

I assume Roth IRA but am confused by the Roller IRA. Does that imply pre-tax only?
 
Trying to roll over a Roth 401K from an employer into a Roth IRA:
Three options on Fidelity are:
Rollover IRA
Traditional IRA
Roth IRA

I assume Roth IRA but am confused by the Roller IRA. Does that imply pre-tax only?
Rollover usually implies trustee to trustee, so I think that's the right choice. However, I definitely would not chance this due to expensive tax consequences if you get it wrong. I'd call them and tell them what you're doing and get guidance on what exactly to do to make sure it does go trustee to trustee. I've found Fidelity reps to be excellent.
 
Did I read correctly that rolling over a 401k into another 401k after a job change isn't the best plan? Better to move it into an IRA so you have better control, options, and lower expenses?
 
Did I read correctly that rolling over a 401k into another 401k after a job change isn't the best plan? Better to move it into an IRA so you have better control, options, and lower expenses?
Probably yes due to fees (some plans can be good, though it's rare). There is a link above that goes through legal protections by state on IRAs, which may be worse than 401ks depending on where you are. Also, 401ks have the rule of 55 that may be advantageous, where IRAs are 59.5. Those are the big two items to check on before rolling a traditional 401k to a traditional IRA. There may be more that I'm forgetting.
 
Trying to roll over a Roth 401K from an employer into a Roth IRA:
Three options on Fidelity are:
Rollover IRA
Traditional IRA
Roth IRA

I assume Roth IRA but am confused by the Roller IRA. Does that imply pre-tax only?
I’m 99% sure the Rollover IRA is a traditional IRA. I can never recall seeing a Roth labeled a rollover. But Sand is right - call and make sure.
 
I am 50 and was recently let go by my employer after 30 years. We were acquired a few years back and they decided to close our facility and move it.

I have a large sum of money in my 401k. Looking to roll it over into a Traditional IRA where my Roth is located.
I do not want to keep it in my current 401k and I do not want to roll it over into new 401k.

This is the right move correct?
What Instinctive said. What is the reason you don't want to keep it in the current 401K? Make sure to talk through all your options with the bank/firm that holds the 401K (no need to involve your former company) because they might have self directed brokerage where you can invest it however you want without giving up the advantage of having it in a 401K. And if you get new employment you might be able to roll it into the new 401K.
I can roll it into my new 401k. I'm just not sure I want to.

Currently my 401k is at Empower. Haven't been a fan of theirs. Looking to move to Fidelity where my Roth is. Feel there are more options and the customer support has been better.

What is the "advatage(s)" of keeping it in a 401k over an IRA?
An advantage of rolling it to the new 401k vs IRA is there is a rule of 55 where if you were to retire from the new company you can withdraw 401k funds without penalty. If you roll it to an IRA and decide to retire at 55 you can’t touch it until 59.5
 
Did I read correctly that rolling over a 401k into another 401k after a job change isn't the best plan? Better to move it into an IRA so you have better control, options, and lower expenses?
Probably yes due to fees (some plans can be good, though it's rare). There is a link above that goes through legal protections by state on IRAs, which may be worse than 401ks depending on where you are. Also, 401ks have the rule of 55 that may be advantageous, where IRAs are 59.5. Those are the big two items to check on before rolling a traditional 401k to a traditional IRA. There may be more that I'm forgetting.

And there's the backdoor Roth conversion conversation up thread - much, much easier with all of your pre-tax funds in a 401K instead of an IRA. Sounds like what all the kids are doing these days is taking their 401Ks with them from job to job.
 
I am 50 and was recently let go by my employer after 30 years. We were acquired a few years back and they decided to close our facility and move it.

I have a large sum of money in my 401k. Looking to roll it over into a Traditional IRA where my Roth is located.
I do not want to keep it in my current 401k and I do not want to roll it over into new 401k.

This is the right move correct?
What Instinctive said. What is the reason you don't want to keep it in the current 401K? Make sure to talk through all your options with the bank/firm that holds the 401K (no need to involve your former company) because they might have self directed brokerage where you can invest it however you want without giving up the advantage of having it in a 401K. And if you get new employment you might be able to roll it into the new 401K.
I can roll it into my new 401k. I'm just not sure I want to.

Currently my 401k is at Empower. Haven't been a fan of theirs. Looking to move to Fidelity where my Roth is. Feel there are more options and the customer support has been better.

What is the "advatage(s)" of keeping it in a 401k over an IRA?
An advantage of rolling it to the new 401k vs IRA is there is a rule of 55 where if you were to retire from the new company you can withdraw 401k funds without penalty. If you roll it to an IRA and decide to retire at 55 you can’t touch it until 59.5
Your company has to have the rule of
55 as part of their plan. I was told there are reasons a company would not want this, but not given specifics.
 
Did I read correctly that rolling over a 401k into another 401k after a job change isn't the best plan? Better to move it into an IRA so you have better control, options, and lower expenses?
Probably yes due to fees (some plans can be good, though it's rare). There is a link above that goes through legal protections by state on IRAs, which may be worse than 401ks depending on where you are. Also, 401ks have the rule of 55 that may be advantageous, where IRAs are 59.5. Those are the big two items to check on before rolling a traditional 401k to a traditional IRA. There may be more that I'm forgetting.

And there's the backdoor Roth conversion conversation up thread - much, much easier with all of your pre-tax funds in a 401K instead of an IRA. Sounds like what all the kids are doing these days is taking their 401Ks with them from job to job.
I've moved 401k to 401k twice in my career. Didn't really think about an IRA since I didn't want my money split up into separate accounts that I'd have to manage independently.
 
I am 50 and was recently let go by my employer after 30 years. We were acquired a few years back and they decided to close our facility and move it.

I have a large sum of money in my 401k. Looking to roll it over into a Traditional IRA where my Roth is located.
I do not want to keep it in my current 401k and I do not want to roll it over into new 401k.

This is the right move correct?
What Instinctive said. What is the reason you don't want to keep it in the current 401K? Make sure to talk through all your options with the bank/firm that holds the 401K (no need to involve your former company) because they might have self directed brokerage where you can invest it however you want without giving up the advantage of having it in a 401K. And if you get new employment you might be able to roll it into the new 401K.
I can roll it into my new 401k. I'm just not sure I want to.

Currently my 401k is at Empower. Haven't been a fan of theirs. Looking to move to Fidelity where my Roth is. Feel there are more options and the customer support has been better.

What is the "advatage(s)" of keeping it in a 401k over an IRA?
An advantage of rolling it to the new 401k vs IRA is there is a rule of 55 where if you were to retire from the new company you can withdraw 401k funds without penalty. If you roll it to an IRA and decide to retire at 55 you can’t touch it until 59.5
Your company has to have the rule of
55 as part of their plan. I was told there are reasons a company would not want this, but not given specifics.
I understood it as an IRS rule, not plan specific but guess wouldn’t be surprised if that is true. It was my plan to take advantage of this rule but found out my company’s plan doesn’t allow for partial distributions so I don’t know how to use it if that’s the case
 

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