Pinewood Derby (1 Viewer)

[sho nuff]

We always seem to be one of the later derbys around. Going on tonight and here is my son's car.

8 years old. Not having any kind of saw...one of the leader's holds a clinic each year for the pack.

He has a decent band saw...last year I cut it on his saw...this year he did all the cutting once the kids had their car's marked.

My son liked my thin design for the parent's race last year and wanted to go with something like that.

So we cut it thin. In figuring out weight...we cut it probably a little too thin to do much drilling and adding weight as I have in his cars in the past.

We were between the rail/side weights like I used on mine last year...and the dome weight. While deciding on a design...he picked the dome because it would make the perfect head/face for his design.

-He did all the sanding,

-Helped with drilling a few extra holes on the bottom for some tungsten putty that helped get the weight right. (I helped guide him so they were straight and he did not go in too far.

-He drilled the hole for the dome weight..

-He sprayed on the primer and coats of green paint.

-He painted the dome and the design on it (I did the eyes because he was too afraid he would not be precise).

-He painted the "chest plate" (I did the outlines with sharpie by his request)

So what I mentioned in parentheses was what I did...along with doing the clearcoat for him because he was pretty sick the day we needed to get that done. And I did the lettering on it. Really turned out great and was very close to what he originally drew out or described to me as I drew it out.

So I give you...the Ninja Turtle Car named Raf!

http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8395/8675506385_1b3a0e2b5b_b.jpg

http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8119/8676620480_139a3c3bba_b.jpg

 

[sho nuff]

Destroyed all competition....undefeated and nobody was close. Needs some adjusting as the back wheels seemed to get angled wide as the night went on and the back end was wobbling pretty good. Need to be smoother in a few weeks at districts.

http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8258/8677133978_eae031895f_c.jpg

And I have no idea what it takes to win best design in this pack. The 3 they pick every year seem to be some of the ugliest things. The first year it was kid's voting. Last year it went to the leaders. I think they place emphasis on it looking like the kid helped. Me being pretty artistic here and there and meticulous on helping my son...he does the work...but Im right there showing him how first and then there with him doing it.

Not that his design this year was great being just a thin car with a dome. But the concept and paint using the dome as the turtle head I thought was great.

Going to have to go all out crazy next year (though, my son already said he wants to do another thin car like this next year because it was so fast).

 

[shuke]

Nice.

 

[Disco Stu]

Destroyed all competition....undefeated and nobody was close. Needs some adjusting as the back wheels seemed to get angled wide as the night went on and the back end was wobbling pretty good. Need to be smoother in a few weeks at districts.

http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8258/8677133978_eae031895f_c.jpg

Going to have to go all out crazy next year (though, my son already said he wants to do another thin car like this next year because it was so fast).

Good job.

Definitely get the wheel alignment taken care of before districts. Wobbling cars get destroyed at that level.

One tip for next year (if your rules allow) is to get the rear axle further back, which will allow you to get the center of mass further up the track. Even if you have to use the precut axle locations, you can make the "short end" the rear of the car. It helps.

 

[sho nuff]

Destroyed all competition....undefeated and nobody was close. Needs some adjusting as the back wheels seemed to get angled wide as the night went on and the back end was wobbling pretty good. Need to be smoother in a few weeks at districts.

http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8258/8677133978_eae031895f_c.jpg

Going to have to go all out crazy next year (though, my son already said he wants to do another thin car like this next year because it was so fast).

Good job.

Definitely get the wheel alignment taken care of before districts. Wobbling cars get destroyed at that level.

One tip for next year (if your rules allow) is to get the rear axle further back, which will allow you to get the center of mass further up the track. Even if you have to use the precut axle locations, you can make the "short end" the rear of the car. It helps.

Thanks...I think I had planned for that...but a bit of lack of concentration on my part when my son was transferring my drawing of how thin he wanted it to the block to mark it to be cut...we got it backwards and I did not notice it. Tried to counter balance that with the tungsten putty drilled up near the front wheels...

I was worried the wobbling would get him beat last night...but have a feeling some in this pack really did not take the time to work much with their cars and their scouts on these cars.

They did a sibling race...only one parent did a car this year for our pack and they put him in the sibling race (and his was awful). I destroyed the parents last year too...so thinking they just don't research and do much with the cars.

The guy who did a car this year mentioned how fast mine seemed last year and that my son had done pretty well and asked after my son won this year if they could come by next year to work on the cars together (his son is a year younger and they are decent friends and play soccer against each other...that guy coaches as well...told him I would help him if they tanked their next game against us )

 

[sho nuff]

Well...he advanced past the first round in the district race...but then was just out of the running to move on.

They had a 3 laned track, would run 6 cars 3 different times each so that each kid ran in each lane. 1 point for 1st, 2 points for 2nd, 3 for 3rd. Add the cumulative scores for each kid's 3 runs and the lowest 2 advance.

He was 2nd twice, and first once and was beat by one point. One kid was 1st twice I believe...one kid won all 3 of his races.

Definitely started wobbling a little in the last couple of races...though, his last race he whipped everyone in a lane that was typically slower the rest of the day.

But, he had fun...and looked sort of disappointed when he did not move on...but then started smiling quickly and said..."now I can play with my car some".

 

[gameday]

Destroyed all competition....undefeated and nobody was close. Needs some adjusting as the back wheels seemed to get angled wide as the night went on and the back end was wobbling pretty good. Need to be smoother in a few weeks at districts.

http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8258/8677133978_eae031895f_c.jpg

Going to have to go all out crazy next year (though, my son already said he wants to do another thin car like this next year because it was so fast).

Good job.

Definitely get the wheel alignment taken care of before districts. Wobbling cars get destroyed at that level.

One tip for next year (if your rules allow) is to get the rear axle further back, which will allow you to get the center of mass further up the track. Even if you have to use the precut axle locations, you can make the "short end" the rear of the car. It helps.

even if you have to use the pre-cut slots, you can cut a piece off the back of the car and glue it onto the front. The effect of that is that the wheels are placed as far back as possible, allowing the the weight to be placed further back.

The reason that is important is because energy (speed) is created as the car (weight) drops down the decline in the track. The further the weight falls, the more speed that is created.

 

[Disco Stu]

Bump. It's that time of year.

 

[Disco Stu]

We are getting a late start this year. Weigh in is on the 24th, and we hadn't even talked about a car until two days ago.

Since we're pressed for time, we're going with the simple Stan Pope rail rider design. Son doesn't like the open spot though, so I guess we'll put duck tape over it. Seriously.

Last night we drilled the axle holes for the extended wheelbase. Again I can't recommend this tool enough. Makes that task a breeze.

Cutting should happen today. I may also pick up some of those Revell axles to reduce the prep work there.

Big fan of the Stan Pope design. My sons have won several Pack and District Championships with it. Here is one of their cars: Stan Pope Rail Rider

I think this is what we're going for this year. How did you do the weights? That one looks cleaner than most I have seen (paint over epoxy/weight).

 

[shuke]

Melting some lead this weekend.

 

[gameday]

We are getting a late start this year. Weigh in is on the 24th, and we hadn't even talked about a car until two days ago.

Since we're pressed for time, we're going with the simple Stan Pope rail rider design. Son doesn't like the open spot though, so I guess we'll put duck tape over it. Seriously.

Last night we drilled the axle holes for the extended wheelbase. Again I can't recommend this tool enough. Makes that task a breeze.

Cutting should happen today. I may also pick up some of those Revell axles to reduce the prep work there.

Big fan of the Stan Pope design. My sons have won several Pack and District Championships with it. Here is one of their cars: Stan Pope Rail Rider

I think this is what we're going for this year. How did you do the weights? That one looks cleaner than most I have seen (paint over epoxy/weight).

Thanks. Here's a post I made on a derby site that walk through it. Good luck.

http://www.derbytalk.com/viewtopic.php?f=11&t=3542

 

[Disco Stu]

Cool. Thanks. What's the benefit of temporarily taping on that back piece of wood? As opposed to leaving an 1/8" there when you cut out the shape.

And were the weights distributed targeting that specific COM?

 

[shuke]

Cool. Thanks. What's the benefit of temporarily taping on that back piece of wood? As opposed to leaving an 1/8" there when you cut out the shape.

And were the weights distributed targeting that specific COM?

Looks like the tape is temporarily holding the back piece on. The weights go to the back of the car.

 

[gameday]

Cool. Thanks. What's the benefit of temporarily taping on that back piece of wood? As opposed to leaving an 1/8" there when you cut out the shape.

And were the weights distributed targeting that specific COM?

Looks like the tape is temporarily holding the back piece on. The weights go to the back of the car.

Yes, that is exactly right. The tape simply holds a temporary piece of wood in place so that the epoxy is contained. I sanded the temp piece of wood off after that. I don't recall exactly what the COM was, but it was extremely aggressive. In fact, it was probably too aggressive. I generally shoot for a COM of 5/8th in front of the axle.

By the way, a 10 year old Scout used my shop to build a car this past week. It was pretty cool seeing him so excited, and he did nearly every step by himself. The only thing I did was cut the car from the block because I used the Band saw, and I melted the lead because that's a bit dangerous. We ran his car down my test track and it ran very well.

 

[Disco Stu]

Cool. Thanks. What's the benefit of temporarily taping on that back piece of wood? As opposed to leaving an 1/8" there when you cut out the shape.

And were the weights distributed targeting that specific COM?

Looks like the tape is temporarily holding the back piece on. The weights go to the back of the car.

Yes, that is exactly right. The tape simply holds a temporary piece of wood in place so that the epoxy is contained. I sanded the temp piece of wood off after that.

Right, but my question is "why?" Just easier to cut out that way?

 

[gameday]

Cool. Thanks. What's the benefit of temporarily taping on that back piece of wood? As opposed to leaving an 1/8" there when you cut out the shape.

And were the weights distributed targeting that specific COM?

Looks like the tape is temporarily holding the back piece on. The weights go to the back of the car.

Yes, that is exactly right. The tape simply holds a temporary piece of wood in place so that the epoxy is contained. I sanded the temp piece of wood off after that.

Right, but my question is "why?" Just easier to cut out that way?

Yep, it's easier to cut. I can maneuver my scroll saw around to leave a small sliver of wood on the back, but it's just easier to not worry about trying to leave that sliver. Besides, the epoxy fills in nicely and you can't even tell the wood isn't there after the car is painted.

 

[St. Louis Bob]

Last night we drilled the axle holes for the extended wheelbase. Again I can't recommend this tool enough. Makes that task a breeze.

Bump for shuke and Bob. That tool helps even if you're using the precut slots. Also for those using the slots, be sure to make the one closer to the end your rear axle. Most do it the opposite way, since that's what is pictured on the box.

Where should I order it from? Tungsten weights arrived yesterday. Should I insert them on the outsides at the rear I guess? Maybe center?

Man, I can't believe this is so much work. I'm too competitive to come in last again though.

 

[shuke]

Last night we drilled the axle holes for the extended wheelbase. Again I can't recommend this tool enough. Makes that task a breeze.

Bump for shuke and Bob. That tool helps even if you're using the precut slots. Also for those using the slots, be sure to make the one closer to the end your rear axle. Most do it the opposite way, since that's what is pictured on the box.

I bought the Revell version last week. Was pretty pissed that the drill bit it came with was not a #44, but about .010" smaller. So I also had to buy another bit. The #44 worked in these holes, which means the smaller bit would have had way too much slop, so not sure what good it would have done to drill straight holes. Stupid.

 

[shuke]

Last night we drilled the axle holes for the extended wheelbase. Again I can't recommend this tool enough. Makes that task a breeze.

Bump for shuke and Bob. That tool helps even if you're using the precut slots. Also for those using the slots, be sure to make the one closer to the end your rear axle. Most do it the opposite way, since that's what is pictured on the box.

Where should I order it from? Tungsten weights arrived yesterday. Should I insert them on the outsides at the rear I guess? Maybe center?

Man, I can't believe this is so much work. I'm too competitive to come in last again though.

Bob, you can buy the Revell version at Michael's if you have those around you. If you do you can probably get a 50% off coupon in the Sunday paper. Of course you have to get a #44 drill bit. You'll have to go to an Ace or other hardware store, I was surprised Lowe's doesn't carry numbered bits.

I'm sure your library has books like this. Of course you can find all of the info on the intarwebs about weight placement. Read it with your son.

 

[St. Louis Bob]

Last night we drilled the axle holes for the extended wheelbase. Again I can't recommend this tool enough. Makes that task a breeze.

Bump for shuke and Bob. That tool helps even if you're using the precut slots. Also for those using the slots, be sure to make the one closer to the end your rear axle. Most do it the opposite way, since that's what is pictured on the box.

Where should I order it from? Tungsten weights arrived yesterday. Should I insert them on the outsides at the rear I guess? Maybe center?

Man, I can't believe this is so much work. I'm too competitive to come in last again though.

Bob, you can buy the Revell version at Michael's if you have those around you. If you do you can probably get a 50% off coupon in the Sunday paper. Of course you have to get a #44 drill bit. You'll have to go to an Ace or other hardware store, I was surprised Lowe's doesn't carry numbered bits.

I'm sure your library has books like this. Of course you can find all of the info on the intarwebs about weight placement. Read it with your son.

Thanks GB!

I wish this was like HS and I could just make some chick do this for me.

 

[Disco Stu]

Last night we drilled the axle holes for the extended wheelbase. Again I can't recommend this tool enough. Makes that task a breeze.

Bump for shuke and Bob. That tool helps even if you're using the precut slots. Also for those using the slots, be sure to make the one closer to the end your rear axle. Most do it the opposite way, since that's what is pictured on the box.

Where should I order it from? Tungsten weights arrived yesterday. Should I insert them on the outsides at the rear I guess? Maybe center?

Man, I can't believe this is so much work. I'm too competitive to come in last again though.

Order it from Maximum Velocity. $11.95 and comes with the correct drill bit and good instructions. http://www.maximum-velocity.com/specialty_tools.htm#toolpack

You want to distribute the weight so that the center of mass (can determine roughly by balancing on a pencil) is about 3/4" in front of the rear axle. 5/8" is a common target but anything under that could cause problems, which is why I suggest targeting 3/4". That way you can miss in either direction and still be ok. Even 1" will be better than 95% of the cars out there.

 

[St. Louis Bob]

Last night we drilled the axle holes for the extended wheelbase. Again I can't recommend this tool enough. Makes that task a breeze.

Bump for shuke and Bob. That tool helps even if you're using the precut slots. Also for those using the slots, be sure to make the one closer to the end your rear axle. Most do it the opposite way, since that's what is pictured on the box.

Where should I order it from? Tungsten weights arrived yesterday. Should I insert them on the outsides at the rear I guess? Maybe center?

Man, I can't believe this is so much work. I'm too competitive to come in last again though.

Order it from Maximum Velocity. $11.95 and comes with the correct drill bit and good instructions.http://www.maximum-velocity.com/specialty_tools.htm#toolpack

You want to distribute the weight so that the center of mass (can determine roughly by balancing on a pencil) is about 3/4" in front of the rear axle. 5/8" is a common target but anything under that could cause problems, which is why I suggest targeting 3/4". That way you can miss in either direction and still be ok. Even 1" will be better than 95% of the cars out there.

I love you.

ETA

and thanks!!

 

[St. Louis Bob]

Maximum Velocity[SIZE=11pt] coupon code "08JANYP8" on the shopping cart page. Get 10% off on your next order. Use coupon code "08JANYP8" on the shopping cart page. [/SIZE]

 

[Disco Stu]

Maximum Velocity coupon code "08JANYP8" on the shopping cart page. Get 10% off on your next order. Use coupon code "08JANYP8" on the shopping cart page.

Thanks. I need to order some tungsten. Btw, their graphite is very good. I'm tempted again to buy that pro-axle press but trying to resist since it's our last year.

 

[gameday]

Maximum Velocity coupon code "08JANYP8" on the shopping cart page. Get 10% off on your next order. Use coupon code "08JANYP8" on the shopping cart page.

Thanks. I need to order some tungsten.Btw, their graphite is very good. I'm tempted again to buy that pro-axle press but trying to resist since it's our last year.

Agreed. Their graphite performs better than any other. BTW, I have a pro-axle press and I just never saw the benefit and don't use it.

 

[St. Louis Bob]

Maximum Velocity coupon code "08JANYP8" on the shopping cart page. Get 10% off on your next order. Use coupon code "08JANYP8" on the shopping cart page.

Thanks. I need to order some tungsten.Btw, their graphite is very good. I'm tempted again to buy that pro-axle press but trying to resist since it's our last year.

Agreed. Their graphite performs better than any other. BTW, I have a pro-axle press and I just never saw the benefit and don't use it.

Well ####. I just bought that damn thing and I have graphite leftover from last year. Oh well, shooting for 5th here.

 

[GDogg]

Why don't you guys let your kids build their cars so they can feel some sense of accomplishment if it does well?

 

[gameday]

Why don't you guys let your kids build their cars so they can feel some sense of accomplishment if it does well?

Dude, read the whole thread. I think you have no idea what you're talking about. I don't even have kids in scouting anymore. But, many Scouts use my workshop and we have pretty cool discussions about how to make the fastest cars. Today a boy and girl who built their cars in my shop had the two fastest cars out of the 75 in their derby. They did everything including picking a design, using the scroll saw, drilling holes to place weight, prepping the axles and wheels, and painting their cars. The whole idea is to give them a sense of accomplishment through teaching them how to build a car, and having them perform as many steps as is safely possible.

 

[Disco Stu]

Weigh-in is one week from tonight and this is all we have. Feel like we're behind, since there are several other things going on this weekend. I'm sure we'll get it done though.

 

[Polish Hammer]

.

 

[Polish Hammer]

I was recently reminded by my wife that my almost 8 year old will be doing this in short order. I think this weekend (or next) is some 2 hour workshop I will be attending. I'm not looking to make this into rocket science, but want to have fun and be competitive. Short of me reading all 8 pages, can anyone point me in the direction of some basics? I have never done this in my life.

 

[17seconds]

Son and I need to get working (first time). Haven't even opened the kit yet. I don't have a band saw but I have a Dremmel, and jigsaw, and some clamps. Can you do it with that?

 

[Disco Stu]

I was recently reminded by my wife that my almost 8 year old will be doing this in short order. I think this weekend (or next) is some 2 hour workshop I will be attending. I'm not looking to make this into rocket science, but want to have fun and be competitive. Short of me reading all 8 pages, can anyone point me in the direction of some basics? I have never done this in my life.

This post by gameday on page one has everything you need at this point.

 

[Disco Stu]

Son and I need to get working (first time). Haven't even opened the kit yet. I don't have a band saw but I have a Dremmel, and jigsaw, and some clamps. Can you do it with that?

You could do a simple wedge design with a jigsaw and drill. Then shape with the dremmel if desired.

Unless you have a steady hand, you may want to drill from the bottom instead of the side. The easiest imo is drilling one hole and then buying a tungsten canopy for the weight.

 

[gameday]

Weigh-in is one week from tonight and this is all we have. Feel like we're behind, since there are several other things going on this weekend. I'm sure we'll get it done though.

I haven't checked this thread in a while and just popped in. Wow, that looks phenomenal.

 

[17seconds]

Son and I need to get working (first time). Haven't even opened the kit yet. I don't have a band saw but I have a Dremmel, and jigsaw, and some clamps. Can you do it with that?

You could do a simple wedge design with a jigsaw and drill. Then shape with the dremmel if desired.

Unless you have a steady hand, you may want to drill from the bottom instead of the side. The easiest imo is drilling one hole and then buying a tungsten canopy for the weight.

Last weekend I did a curve design like this because that's how my son wanted it to look. Just the rough shape so far. Did it with the jigsaw and sanding with a hand sander and the dremel. I'll streamline the front to take some weight out, more like the wedge in the front but still curved.

Just ordered speed axles and the speed kit (graphite lube and sandpaper) from maximium velocity as well as 4oz of lead weight. I'll use the stock wheels. Plan to put the lead into drill holes above the back wheels since it can't be exposed.

We have a digital scale at work which is nice - I can get this baby just under 5oz.

 

[sho nuff]

Why don't you guys let your kids build their cars so they can feel some sense of accomplishment if it does well?

Seems you have not read.

My kid picks the design and does about everything except use the power saws...and sometimes asks me to do some of the tiny details in painting with his assistance.

He drills the holes...sands the majority of it...spray paints it, and does every bit of the assembly with my assistance.

 

[sho nuff]

Son and I need to get working (first time). Haven't even opened the kit yet. I don't have a band saw but I have a Dremmel, and jigsaw, and some clamps. Can you do it with that?

You could do a simple wedge design with a jigsaw and drill. Then shape with the dremmel if desired.

Unless you have a steady hand, you may want to drill from the bottom instead of the side. The easiest imo is drilling one hole and then buying a tungsten canopy for the weight.

The canopy weight is also great in use with your design.

Last year's was the ninja turtle and my son made it the turtles head and painted the bandana on it.

This year he talked about doing it in orange and white checkerboard for the University of TN endzone (even though he is not really that much of a UT fan) and using the canopy weight and painting it like a football.

 

[St. Louis Bob]

How do recommend aligning? I checked out video where you make a mark on the nail and then rotate it but that hasn't worked out so well. Widest base as possible or is that shtick?

 

[shuke]

How do recommend aligning? I checked out video where you make a mark on the nail and then rotate it but that hasn't worked out so well. Widest base as possible or is that shtick?

I don't think we're going to mess with the axles this year. That's how we splintered the axle slot last year. I've seen what you're referring to about rotating the axle, but I can't imaging that helping much if the axles are not out-of-round, which would have been obvious if you chucked them in a Dremel or drill for polishing.

 

[St. Louis Bob]

How do recommend aligning? I checked out video where you make a mark on the nail and then rotate it but that hasn't worked out so well. Widest base as possible or is that shtick?

I don't think we're going to mess with the axles this year. That's how we splintered the axle slot last year. I've seen what you're referring to about rotating the axle, but I can't imaging that helping much if the axles are not out-of-round, which would have been obvious if you chucked them in a Dremel or drill for polishing.

I chocked them. I also bought the axel press and also the drill bit axel alignment thing but they still don't run true.

 

[Disco Stu]

Son and I need to get working (first time). Haven't even opened the kit yet. I don't have a band saw but I have a Dremmel, and jigsaw, and some clamps. Can you do it with that?

You could do a simple wedge design with a jigsaw and drill. Then shape with the dremmel if desired.

Unless you have a steady hand, you may want to drill from the bottom instead of the side. The easiest imo is drilling one hole and then buying a tungsten canopy for the weight.

Last weekend I did a curve design like this because that's how my son wanted it to look. Just the rough shape so far. Did it with the jigsaw and sanding with a hand sander and the dremel. I'll streamline the front to take some weight out, more like the wedge in the front but still curved.

Just ordered speed axles and the speed kit (graphite lube and sandpaper) from maximium velocity as well as 4oz of lead weight. I'll use the stock wheels. Plan to put the lead into drill holes above the back wheels since it can't be exposed.

We have a digital scale at work which is nice - I can get this baby just under 5oz.

Under? Ideally you want it to be exactly "5oz" at check-in, which means it may actually be over 5.00 oz. It all depends on the accuracy and precision of the scale used at check-in.

We shoot for 5.1oz on our postage scale at home, and then back down until their scale reads 5.0. That's easy to do when using tungsten putty. Then at district we have to remove a little more since that scale reads out to the hundreth.

 

[Disco Stu]

How do recommend aligning? I checked out video where you make a mark on the nail and then rotate it but that hasn't worked out so well. Widest base as possible or is that shtick?

I don't think we're going to mess with the axles this year. That's how we splintered the axle slot last year. I've seen what you're referring to about rotating the axle, but I can't imaging that helping much if the axles are not out-of-round, which would have been obvious if you chucked them in a Dremel or drill for polishing.

I chocked them. I also bought the axel press and also the drill bit axel alignment thing but they still don't run true.

I'm not sure what you mean by widest base as possible. Are you trying to run straight? Or rail ride? One wheel raised?

If all the axles (and holes) are perfectly straight, Shuke is right that rotating won't help much. You probably need to bend the dominant front axle to steer it the direction you need.

 

[St. Louis Bob]

How do recommend aligning? I checked out video where you make a mark on the nail and then rotate it but that hasn't worked out so well. Widest base as possible or is that shtick?

I don't think we're going to mess with the axles this year. That's how we splintered the axle slot last year. I've seen what you're referring to about rotating the axle, but I can't imaging that helping much if the axles are not out-of-round, which would have been obvious if you chucked them in a Dremel or drill for polishing.

I chocked them. I also bought the axel press and also the drill bit axel alignment thing but they still don't run true.

I'm not sure what you mean by widest base as possible. Are you trying to run straight? Or rail ride? One wheel raised?

If all the axles (and holes) are perfectly straight, Shuke is right that rotating won't help much. You probably need to bend the dominant front axle to steer it the direction you need.

Thanks, I'll try this.

ETA

I'm really seriously trying this year. It's driving me crazy, but I'm trying.

I think they should do 1/2 marathons instead of the dads and boys.

 

[Disco Stu]

Weigh-in is one week from tonight and this is all we have. Feel like we're behind, since there are several other things going on this weekend. I'm sure we'll get it done though.

I haven't checked this thread in a while and just popped in. Wow, that looks phenomenal.

Thanks. We finished both cars Monday. Check in is tonight.

His car after sanding. Edged up to 5.1 oz after paint and graphite. COM is at 11/16". Steers toward the raised wheel, hitting target 3 inches at 4 feet IIRC.

Final product

Side view (I'm hoping that line at 1:00 is actually a reflection, since I'm pretty sure the real line ended up around 4:00 when aligned)

Front view (Negative camber on the rear wheels, slightly positive on the front dominant, which is also toed in slightly to steer into rail. The raised front has negative camber to put it a little further from the rail and isn't raised by much.

 

[Disco Stu]

For my car (heavyweight division) I decided to make it look like I just stuck two blocks together and put some wheels on it.

But it weighs about 3 and a half pounds. Here's why.

"She may not look like much, but she's got it where it counts, kid." -Han Solo

 

[IrishTwinkie]

Weigh-in is one week from tonight and this is all we have. Feel like we're behind, since there are several other things going on this weekend. I'm sure we'll get it done though.

I haven't checked this thread in a while and just popped in. Wow, that looks phenomenal.

Thanks. We finished both cars Monday. Check in is tonight.

His car after sanding. Edged up to 5.1 oz after paint and graphite. COM is at 11/16". Steers toward the raised wheel, hitting target 3 inches at 4 feet IIRC.

Final product

Side view (I'm hoping that line at 1:00 is actually a reflection, since I'm pretty sure the real line ended up around 4:00 when aligned)

Front view (Negative camber on the rear wheels, slightly positive on the front dominant, which is also toed in slightly to steer into rail. The raised front has negative camber to put it a little further from the rail and isn't raised by much.

Thats a great looking car. Impressive!

 

[St. Louis Bob]

How do recommend aligning? I checked out video where you make a mark on the nail and then rotate it but that hasn't worked out so well. Widest base as possible or is that shtick?

I don't think we're going to mess with the axles this year. That's how we splintered the axle slot last year. I've seen what you're referring to about rotating the axle, but I can't imaging that helping much if the axles are not out-of-round, which would have been obvious if you chucked them in a Dremel or drill for polishing.

I chocked them. I also bought the axel press and also the drill bit axel alignment thing but they still don't run true.

I'm not sure what you mean by widest base as possible. Are you trying to run straight? Or rail ride? One wheel raised?

If all the axles (and holes) are perfectly straight, Shuke is right that rotating won't help much. You probably need to bend the dominant front axle to steer it the direction you need.

Thanks, I'll try this.

ETA

I'm really seriously trying this year. It's driving me crazy, but I'm trying.

I think they should do 1/2 marathons instead of the dads and boys.

I got them to roll fairly straight. I had them on the treadmill at work...

Thanks for all of the help guys!

 

[St. Louis Bob]

Weigh-in is one week from tonight and this is all we have. Feel like we're behind, since there are several other things going on this weekend. I'm sure we'll get it done though.

I haven't checked this thread in a while and just popped in. Wow, that looks phenomenal.

Thanks. We finished both cars Monday. Check in is tonight.

His car after sanding. Edged up to 5.1 oz after paint and graphite. COM is at 11/16". Steers toward the raised wheel, hitting target 3 inches at 4 feet IIRC.

Final product

Side view (I'm hoping that line at 1:00 is actually a reflection, since I'm pretty sure the real line ended up around 4:00 when aligned)

Front view (Negative camber on the rear wheels, slightly positive on the front dominant, which is also toed in slightly to steer into rail. The raised front has negative camber to put it a little further from the rail and isn't raised by much.

Very, very cool.

For my car (heavyweight division) I decided to make it look like I just stuck two blocks together and put some wheels on it.

But it weighs about 3 and a half pounds. Here's why.

"She may not look like much, but she's got it where it counts, kid." -Han Solo

This is awesome.

Between the broads and the wood working, I've come to the conclusion that Stu must have magic hands.

 

[sho nuff]

Son and I need to get working (first time). Haven't even opened the kit yet. I don't have a band saw but I have a Dremmel, and jigsaw, and some clamps. Can you do it with that?

You could do a simple wedge design with a jigsaw and drill. Then shape with the dremmel if desired.

Unless you have a steady hand, you may want to drill from the bottom instead of the side. The easiest imo is drilling one hole and then buying a tungsten canopy for the weight.

Last weekend I did a curve design like this because that's how my son wanted it to look. Just the rough shape so far. Did it with the jigsaw and sanding with a hand sander and the dremel. I'll streamline the front to take some weight out, more like the wedge in the front but still curved.

Just ordered speed axles and the speed kit (graphite lube and sandpaper) from maximium velocity as well as 4oz of lead weight. I'll use the stock wheels. Plan to put the lead into drill holes above the back wheels since it can't be exposed.

We have a digital scale at work which is nice - I can get this baby just under 5oz.

Under? Ideally you want it to be exactly "5oz" at check-in, which means it may actually be over 5.00 oz. It all depends on the accuracy and precision of the scale used at check-in.

We shoot for 5.1oz on our postage scale at home, and then back down until their scale reads 5.0. That's easy to do when using tungsten putty. Then at district we have to remove a little more since that scale reads out to the hundreth.

Yes...very glad I had the putty in his car last year to be able to easily scrape out that fraction of weight on the more precise scales at district.