Fantasy Football - Footballguys Forums
Welcome to Our Forums. Once you've registered and logged in, you're primed to talk football, among other topics, with the sharpest and most experienced fantasy players on the internet.
Home-owners...What are your current projects? (2 Viewers)
- Thread starter wilked
- Start date
Mr. Ected
Footballguy
wilked
Footballguy
The only thing I would say here is I agree with shorter houses. My roofline is 20 foot up and you (or at least I) don't fool around with those heights.
Copeman
Footballguy
I agree, but you can rent a small lift. Last time I rented one it was like $400 for the day. Still saving $.
glvsav37
Footballguy
But why do they put a guarantee on the box?
Because they know all they sold ya was a guaranteed piece of sh!t. That's all it is, isn't it? Hey, if you want me to take a dump in a box and mark it guaranteed, I will. I got spare time. But for now, for your customer's sake, for your daughter's sake, ya might wanna think about buying a quality product from me.
/TommyBoy
Last edited by a moderator:
matttyl
Footballguy
Just a guess, but it depends on the house. My house is built on a slope (sloping up to the front of the house). If I didn't have gutters on the front of the house, all that water would pool there. No gutters on the back of the house and the water would fall off the house and then go down the hill. I still have gutters on the back as I have a large deck back there.
pollardsvision
Footballguy
Footprint is 900 sq ft with 1700 finished. One main level and basement. Front guttering only requires about 45-50 feet of gutters (same for back). Lynchburg, VA.
As far as back gutters, I do have them, but if they are performing properly, it doesn't affect the foundation. Land slopes front to back. Front of house basement is fully underground and back is walk out (all covered porch and shed). Not totally unimportant, but not a huge concern.
pollardsvision
Footballguy
As you were typing that, I was pulling away more insulation around where the water is coming in. There's definitely another factor. It seems pretty likely the water is coming in where the sewer drain goes out (there's water coming at that spot too). It's completely dry above the drain (about 3 feet), and emanates down from it. It seems much wetter when it rains, and dries up pretty well with no rain. That combined with the basement doesn't smell like #### would make me think the foundation isn't sealed properly around that drain. I'm hoping that's a simpler/cheaper fix than a broken water line or something.
I've got a guy coming to check it out. It's about 3 feet of digging required to get down to it to see what's going on. I plan to get that resolved before moving forward on the gutters. I want them regardless, but I'd prefer to know how big of a foundation/sewer drain issue I may be looking at before deciding how big of a check to write for gutters.
wilked
Footballguy
Ok makes sense.
Where gutters get expensive is once height really gets involved. Was trying to resolve your quotes against some others I have heard about
pollardsvision
Footballguy
Oh yeah, my front of house is probably about as simple as you can get for gutter installation. I guess that means it's about as simple as you can get for cleaning too, but I'm lazy and that would interfere with my cherished beer drinking time.
msommer
Footballguy
That sounds exactly like my issue detailed above. It was pretty easy to fix and not too expensive. A bit of digging, some clean up, some concrete, some water proofing and then the dirt (and tiles) back on. Half a days work of skilled labor over about a week IIRC. I did most of the digging myself (which I won't recommend if you can get the unskilled labor rate for that)
belljr
Footballguy
Now I remember why I put off home improvements as much as possible.
My wife is a complete PIA.
First she take forever to decide. I then push and she gets mad at me
So our deck is about half done. The lower side has the floor completely done.
She says "that doesn't look right"
Me
Her: Why are there so many gaps in the floor? Our wood deck didn't have gaps, i can see to the bottom.
me:
her: the space between the floor i can see below.
me: that's standard spacing for expansion and stuff. The clips are pretty standard. Thats how the floor gets installed. You install the clips. Slide the next board into the clip. Nail down the clips on the outside of the next board.
her: I don't think so, i don't like it
me:
My wife is a complete PIA.
First she take forever to decide. I then push and she gets mad at me
So our deck is about half done. The lower side has the floor completely done.
She says "that doesn't look right"
Me
Her: Why are there so many gaps in the floor? Our wood deck didn't have gaps, i can see to the bottom.
me:
her: the space between the floor i can see below.
me: that's standard spacing for expansion and stuff. The clips are pretty standard. Thats how the floor gets installed. You install the clips. Slide the next board into the clip. Nail down the clips on the outside of the next board.
her: I don't think so, i don't like it
me:
Fat Nick
Footballguy
lololololololol. My wife is the same way. She says "You're so particular about every home project." My response is: "If I wasn't, you would be." In reality, she's particular about the colors/design. I'm particular about how it's done.Now I remember why I put off home improvements as much as possible.
My wife is a complete PIA.
First she take forever to decide. I then push and she gets mad at me
So our deck is about half done. The lower side has the floor completely done.
She says "that doesn't look right"
Me
Her: Why are there so many gaps in the floor? Our wood deck didn't have gaps, i can see to the bottom.
me:
her: the space between the floor i can see below.
me: that's standard spacing for expansion and stuff. The clips are pretty standard. Thats how the floor gets installed. You install the clips. Slide the next board into the clip. Nail down the clips on the outside of the next board.
her: I don't think so, i don't like it
me:
Composite decking expands and contracts A LOT. Like way more than I'd have ever expected. You're doing your deck in the fall when it's colder, so whatever you do, don't put it in closer than the recommended spacing. On the first 100 degree day, that thing would start to buckle and bow all over.
I've got the opposite issue - I put my decking down when it was like 90 degrees. When it's below freezing, the end gaps on my boards are almost past the clips.
Fat Nick
Footballguy
1) Also check where on the arm the chain is connected. Most arms have holes along the length - choosing a hole closer to the end will give you more range of motion/higher lift.Apologize if these are Hondas, but figured it was better to ask here than start a thread.
Couple toilet-related questions.
1) I have one toilet where the flush is "soft." You know when you try to flush and you have to press down quite a ways or it doesn't always work? I have tried moving the chain to a point on the handle arm where it was shorter, but I am still having those issues. Do I need to replace the handle and arm, or the flapper?
2) I have a teen-aged boy that is constantly clogging their toilet. He does it to others, but sometimes he will clog his a couple times a week; even to the point where I have had to call a plumber out to unclog it. He claims that he doesn't use a ton of TP, but who knows. Is this something that could just be related to the toilet, and replacing it might help? Or do I just need to send him for intense training on how to properly take a dump?
If I did need to replace, does anyone have any ball-park figures on what that would cost?
2) I have a 3.5 year old who takes bigger dumps than I do. Seriously. They're the size of his arm. His eyes water and he asks me to turn on the fan for him when he goes. "Daddy, can you turn the air on? I'm stinky." I can only imagine what's going to happen as he gets bigger.
Mr. Ected
Footballguy
A couple days after I posted this, the arm broke and I had to replace it. Of course that was on Thanksgiving and since this was in the 1/2 bath on the main floor, I swapped the arm from a toilet that we use much less to cover until the weekend when I could get out to Lowes for a new one.1) Also check where on the arm the chain is connected. Most arms have holes along the length - choosing a hole closer to the end will give you more range of motion/higher lift.Apologize if these are Hondas, but figured it was better to ask here than start a thread.
Couple toilet-related questions.
1) I have one toilet where the flush is "soft." You know when you try to flush and you have to press down quite a ways or it doesn't always work? I have tried moving the chain to a point on the handle arm where it was shorter, but I am still having those issues. Do I need to replace the handle and arm, or the flapper?
2) I have a teen-aged boy that is constantly clogging their toilet. He does it to others, but sometimes he will clog his a couple times a week; even to the point where I have had to call a plumber out to unclog it. He claims that he doesn't use a ton of TP, but who knows. Is this something that could just be related to the toilet, and replacing it might help? Or do I just need to send him for intense training on how to properly take a dump?
If I did need to replace, does anyone have any ball-park figures on what that would cost?
2) I have a 3.5 year old who takes bigger dumps than I do. Seriously. They're the size of his arm. His eyes water and he asks me to turn on the fan for him when he goes. "Daddy, can you turn the air on? I'm stinky." I can only imagine what's going to happen as he gets bigger.
Works much better now!!
As for the clogged one, I am going to try some anti clogging fluid (they make some that works for toilets) we'll see how that works!
belljr
Footballguy
Fat Nick
Footballguy
lumpy19
Footballguy
Its not just you.Now I remember why I put off home improvements as much as possible.
My wife is a complete PIA.
First she take forever to decide. I then push and she gets mad at me
So our deck is about half done. The lower side has the floor completely done.
She says "that doesn't look right"
Me
Her: Why are there so many gaps in the floor? Our wood deck didn't have gaps, i can see to the bottom.
me:
her: the space between the floor i can see below.
me: that's standard spacing for expansion and stuff. The clips are pretty standard. Thats how the floor gets installed. You install the clips. Slide the next board into the clip. Nail down the clips on the outside of the next board.
her: I don't think so, i don't like it
me:
When I renovated our mud room a few years ago the existing tile was no longer made so I brought home a bunch of samples and asked her to pick. I let it stew for a few days and asked again, got the approval....laid down the new tile floor.
She hated it and asked me to remove all the original tile and finish it all in the same tile. I put a small carpet over the transition tiles and called it a day.
The Tick
Footballguy
I have a faucet question. In the last couple months my kitchen faucet has had a minor issue where sometimes after it's turned off, a minute or so later a small "dribble" (eyedropper full of water or so) will come out of it. It's not a constant dripping or anything just that little bit and then it's good. And as I said it doesn't happen right when it's turned off and it doesn't happen all the time.
Any ideas on what could cause this? Is there a fix beyond replace the whole thing? I've done some internet searching and most of what I see is continual dripping stuff, which doesn't seem to fit my issue.
Any ideas on what could cause this? Is there a fix beyond replace the whole thing? I've done some internet searching and most of what I see is continual dripping stuff, which doesn't seem to fit my issue.
belljr
Footballguy
The Tick
Footballguy
there are types??? Yeah, not good with this stuff
.It's a single hole pull out faucet with the button to select between normal faucet and spray. It has the single control handle on the main spout. I think it's a moen, but not 100% sure. Is that specific enough?
belljr
Footballguy
Is the end a "standard spigot"?there are types??? Yeah, not good with this stuff
It's a single hole pull out faucet with the button to select between normal faucet and spray. It has the single control handle on the main spout. I think it's a moen, but not 100% sure. Is that specific enough?
I ask because the ends can unscrew and have a little screen and sometimes a gasket
Fat Nick
Footballguy
So on Saturday we were decorating the tree and I had the first fire of the year in our ###### pre-fab fireplace. After about 30 minutes, I hear a loud [CRACK!] that sounded like somebody shot a gun in the living room. I immediately ran to the fire place, expecting to see embers everywhere, but I didn't see anything. Looked around and nothing. Finished decorating, and went to bed. Sunday AM I woke up and went to close the flue since the fire was burned out and noticed a hole the size of a tennis ball in my back refractory/fire brick panel. I think the brick had a lot of moisture in it from not being used, and after that first fire it just exploded for some reason.
I need to replace the refractory panels. It's a relatively easy DIY job that involves cutting some panels to size with a circular or table saw, and just putting them in with existing brackets. Very easy. The challenge is finding the panels. I thought I found a place that sold sheets that I could cut to size. $55 each, and I needed 3....$165 not bad...then it charged me $215 shpping. WTF. Every other site charges ~$150+ PER SHEET! I'm not trying to spend $500 on a DIY project for a crappy fireplace. If I have to spend that much, I'll have somebody come put a new brick fireplace in and pay several grand.
There has to be a cheaper way to get those refractory panels. Has anyone done this before? Where did you get the panels? They seem to market under "refractory panel," "Vermiculite panel," or "Firebrick panel." I need 2 sheets 16" x 15", 1 sheet 16" x 20", and one sheet 32" x 15" - So if the size is right, I might be able to use 3 sheets...some need 4. I swear every place online I try and source from is SUPER expensive.
I need to replace the refractory panels. It's a relatively easy DIY job that involves cutting some panels to size with a circular or table saw, and just putting them in with existing brackets. Very easy. The challenge is finding the panels. I thought I found a place that sold sheets that I could cut to size. $55 each, and I needed 3....$165 not bad...then it charged me $215 shpping. WTF. Every other site charges ~$150+ PER SHEET! I'm not trying to spend $500 on a DIY project for a crappy fireplace. If I have to spend that much, I'll have somebody come put a new brick fireplace in and pay several grand.
There has to be a cheaper way to get those refractory panels. Has anyone done this before? Where did you get the panels? They seem to market under "refractory panel," "Vermiculite panel," or "Firebrick panel." I need 2 sheets 16" x 15", 1 sheet 16" x 20", and one sheet 32" x 15" - So if the size is right, I might be able to use 3 sheets...some need 4. I swear every place online I try and source from is SUPER expensive.
offdee
Footballguy
I'm at the very beginning stages of thinking through designs and layout for redoing our Master bathroom.
On one side we presently have a standup shower (with dedicated drain) next to it is a separate bathtub (with dedicated drain). On the other side we have the single sink vanity (with dedicated drain).
I'd basically like to get rid of the bathtup and in it's place put a double sink vanity. Then where the vanity used to be put a big stand up shower.
The space and plumbing for water is all there already on both sides to do this, so no issues there My question comes in with the drains....I'm basically putting a vanity where a bathtup used to be and a Shower where a vanity used to be. I know tubs/showers need a 2" drain and vanitys need a 1.5" drain.
My questions...
1) Is it OK to tie the vanity into the old 2" bathtub drain? (know they are supposed to be 1.5", but is tieing it to a bigger drain an issue?
2) I know I can't tie the shower into the old 1.5" vanity drain.....how big of a deal is it to reroute the old shower drain from the other side of the space to be in this new location? Subfloor is cement.
On one side we presently have a standup shower (with dedicated drain) next to it is a separate bathtub (with dedicated drain). On the other side we have the single sink vanity (with dedicated drain).
I'd basically like to get rid of the bathtup and in it's place put a double sink vanity. Then where the vanity used to be put a big stand up shower.
The space and plumbing for water is all there already on both sides to do this, so no issues there My question comes in with the drains....I'm basically putting a vanity where a bathtup used to be and a Shower where a vanity used to be. I know tubs/showers need a 2" drain and vanitys need a 1.5" drain.
My questions...
1) Is it OK to tie the vanity into the old 2" bathtub drain? (know they are supposed to be 1.5", but is tieing it to a bigger drain an issue?
2) I know I can't tie the shower into the old 1.5" vanity drain.....how big of a deal is it to reroute the old shower drain from the other side of the space to be in this new location? Subfloor is cement.
glvsav37
Footballguy
what type of fireplace is this? is it wood burning or gas? WE just installed a gas fireplace, not up a running yet. But holy hell that sounds kinda scary.
Fat Nick
Footballguy
Woodburning. It's a basic 36" builder-grade pre-fab. I think it was more the shock of seeing a giant hole than anything. It's not as bad as it sounds from a fire hazard as basically you've got the firebrick/refractory panel, then the actual prefab metal box, then a pretty substantial air-gap in the chase between the box and anything else.
I found a place online finally that sells all the parts - looking at $479 shipped pretty much no matter how I slice it. Have a call in to the local place to see if they can do any better, but it seems like they get you by the balls with those panels. I really want to rip the whole thing out and put in a REAL brick fireplace, but it's not really a good time to do that.
glvsav37
Footballguy
I think here lies your issue. I would assume you would need to do a decent amount of rerouting and breaking up cement. There inso way to keep the shower where it is, just expand it and add a second separate vanity on the opposite side of the current one? I've seen this done and it looks really nice. Also, you may want to look into a linear drain system for the new shower b.c you can put it anywhere and not worry about matching a center drain location for the expanded shower. They are more expensive but have a really sleek look.
glvsav37
Footballguy
Passed a huge milestone in the renovation this weekend. We were able to put the living room and dining room somewhat back together. We had ripped the cathedral roof off this room and added a reversed peak with a window (mainly for architectural aesthetics). the place has been covered in plastic drop cloths and craft paper on the floor for months b/c in addition to this work, its been the main walkthrough for all the trades to get to the other projects. With this done and the kids rooms being trimmed and finalized today, we were able to clean the room (about 3 times to get it somewhat clean from al the spackle dust) rehung a few photos, I installed the Sonos ceiling speakers, and put the Christmas tree up. Holding off on the furniture just yet b/c the electrian has to finish trimming the high hats and needs to move a tall ladder around.
The remaining work is on the extension—more trim and install doors (today), paint, flooring, install the fireplace surround and then hook it all up to electric. And for all of that, they can use the new rear entrance.
here is a walk through I did on Thanksgiving (don't mind the crappy commentary). Its a little old, but it gives you a sense of that part of the project
https://youtu.be/xvfG2YXc-pg
The remaining work is on the extension—more trim and install doors (today), paint, flooring, install the fireplace surround and then hook it all up to electric. And for all of that, they can use the new rear entrance.
here is a walk through I did on Thanksgiving (don't mind the crappy commentary). Its a little old, but it gives you a sense of that part of the project
https://youtu.be/xvfG2YXc-pg
Last edited by a moderator:
offdee
Footballguy
Thanks. No real good way to keep the shower where it is and expand it given the space limitations on that side of the bathroom. Moving it to the opposite sides allows much more room to make it bigger and more luxurious.
How about my other question....is it OK to tie a sink vanity drain into the existing bigger 2" bathtub drain that's already in that location?
glvsav37
Footballguy
I'm not a plumber so don't quote me, but I can't see having a bigger drain as an issue....but again, I'd check with a licensed plumber.
Osaurus
Footballguy
I have about 5 years left on my roof. Just got an estimate for about 12k on a 2,000 sf single story house for 30 year shingles. They also suggested peel and stick (I’m in Tampa if that helps). This estimate seems high to me. Rooferguys, thoughts?
Last edited by a moderator:
offdee
Footballguy
Yep, that was my instinct too, but I'll definitely make sure. Reading online the different drain sizes have something to do with the amount of solids each can allow...obviously a shower/tub would have more hair and dirt so that's why it's bigger. Not sure why bigger wouldn't be ok for a sink.
In regards to the other question about the new shower location and drain needed...the distance between the present shower drain and where we want to relocate it is approx. 6-7 feet. We'll be retiling the entire floor so assume breaking up the concrete for that 7 feet to tie in the drains shouldn't be a "huge" deal should it? Then when done obviously just tile over that concrete work.
Last edited by a moderator:
Osaurus
Footballguy
Pretty basic hip roof. Square footage is slightly more that that for the roof (unsure as to how much more). Remove old shingles/felt. Plywood is good.
wilked
Footballguy
No issue with using a larger drain size for your sink. That said....
based on what you wrote I assume they are going to rip the whole thing up and redo it. As long as you are moving one drain it won’t be much more to rip it all up and lay it out per new plan.
Whats your budget for the whole project?
pollardsvision
Footballguy
I'm kind of an idiot about this sort of thing, but if it were me, I'd tinker around to see if there's a gasket I could easily replace. For 2 handle faucets, there's often some gaskets or seats that can be replaced.there are types??? Yeah, not good with this stuff
It's a single hole pull out faucet with the button to select between normal faucet and spray. It has the single control handle on the main spout. I think it's a moen, but not 100% sure. Is that specific enough?
For a single handle pull-out like yours, I'm not sure what parts could easily be replaced to stop a leak, so I'd just replace the whole thing (which is exactly what I just did on an old leaky Moen). You can get a great one for $150 and have a nice new faucet.
Hawkeye21
Footballguy
Living in the country I constantly have to deal with mice and occasionally bats. Right now there is something living in the wall beside my son's bed and it's keeping him up which means he's keeping me up. I think it's bats as we had the same issue in our last house. Looks like I'm going to have to hire an exterminator.
Osaurus
Footballguy
mphtrilogy
Footballguy
After replacing 5 windows this fall (4 more to go in the spring, or next fall), shifting focus over the winter to begin what will probably take 2 years to do a partial finish to my attic. We had an extension done 10 years ago, and were able to get the pull down stairs replaced with a walk up stairs through my bedroom. So didn't really think about finishing this until my girls have outgrown my softball coaching duties. The walk up attic stairs make this an attractive finish space if I can swing it.
Bought some insulation and some 2x4's last week to kick it off over the next few weeks, going to do 4-6 hrs on any available Saturday, but not going to go into Beast Mode to burn myself out. This will be more of hobby project.
This will take awhile as I need to purge 20 years of stuff as I go...
Hope to have a record storage area for myself and a craft/sewing area for my daughters when all done...
Bought some insulation and some 2x4's last week to kick it off over the next few weeks, going to do 4-6 hrs on any available Saturday, but not going to go into Beast Mode to burn myself out. This will be more of hobby project.
This will take awhile as I need to purge 20 years of stuff as I go...
Hope to have a record storage area for myself and a craft/sewing area for my daughters when all done...
Hawkeye21
Footballguy
It's winter in Iowa right now so I don't think bats are going to pick bat houses outside over my house.
Fat Nick
Footballguy
I called around to several places and found exactly ONE place online that sold the OEM replacements. It's crazy - I called 3 pre-fab fireplace stores within a 25 mile radius of me. Two said, "All our sales guys are busy - I'll get your info and have them call you back." Neither one did. Receptionist at one even declined to even take the model number/part numbers so the sales guys could look it up. "I'll just let them get that from you later." The third said, "We can order them for you, but that's not really what we do." So basically, my lesson learned is that fireplace stores are all about the installs and new fireplace sales, and have ZERO interest in helping you service your fireplace after the sale.
I ended up ordering online - Between discount codes I found, free shipping, and not having to pay sales tax, I ended up spending $453 for new refractory panels for the sides, back, and the bottom, as well as a new mesh screen since my old one is all bent up. That's a heck of a lot of money for a fireplace that probably only cost $1,000 new (obviously excl. install), but I didn't really have another option.
berndog
Footballguy
Dang that is a kick in the balls.
To prevent it from happening again will you do a few quick fires to start the season to remove any extra moisture?
Snotbubbles
Footballguy
Tearing down my 2-story 2b, 1ba row home (end property) and making it a 3 story, 4br, 3ba. Adding about 1500 sq. ft.
ChiefD
Footballguy
russinfortworth
Footballguy
Front door is starting to touch on the top corner opposite the hinges.
After looking on line these seem to be the options to fix the screws in the hinge that have stripped out the wood:
1 - Bore out hole, fill with a dowel and carpenter glue, replace screw.
2 - Remove old screw and replace with longer screw that will then be able to screw into the 2X4 as opposed to just the door frame.
3 - Some "experts" have utilized golf tees or tooth picks to put in screw hole with glue and replace screw..........this seems to be a "simple" version of option 1.
Anyone ever done any of these?
After looking on line these seem to be the options to fix the screws in the hinge that have stripped out the wood:
1 - Bore out hole, fill with a dowel and carpenter glue, replace screw.
2 - Remove old screw and replace with longer screw that will then be able to screw into the 2X4 as opposed to just the door frame.
3 - Some "experts" have utilized golf tees or tooth picks to put in screw hole with glue and replace screw..........this seems to be a "simple" version of option 1.
Anyone ever done any of these?
shuke
Black Ice Skeptic
I've done the toothpick trick multiple times around the house with success (no glue, and use same screw). But if you're talking about a heavy front entry door, probably better to do option 1, or a combination of longer screw with toothpick.
Last edited by a moderator:
Similar threads
