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Home-owners...What are your current projects? (2 Viewers)

Not a project just a question.

Sump pump float was getting stuck.  I realized that when the lid is on, the pipe hole is in a position that pushes the entire pump in one direction.  I opened the hole up (not very prettily) to relieve it.  Is there a reason the lid needs to be sealed? There is a secondary pipe that runs air from the pit to the outside.  I am assuming to allow radon gas to escape? But it is not hooked up to a fan or anything so not sure if it really does anything.  
Gas relief is the only thing i can think of.

 
I'm curious how you like that once you get it in...
I returned it.  I have an eave mount that is 11’ high.  The floodlight says to mount at 9’ to be optimal.  I mounted it anyway to see what happened.  The video was fairly clear, but the notifications lagged behind.  I returned it and chalked it up to being above the ideal height.

I swapped it out for the Ring Battery powered spotlight.  We will give it a few days to see how it goes.  I will report back.

 
Not a project just a question.

Sump pump float was getting stuck.  I realized that when the lid is on, the pipe hole is in a position that pushes the entire pump in one direction.  I opened the hole up (not very prettily) to relieve it.  Is there a reason the lid needs to be sealed? There is a secondary pipe that runs air from the pit to the outside.  I am assuming to allow radon gas to escape? But it is not hooked up to a fan or anything so not sure if it really does anything.  
Passive radon system. All new homes require them. If you have high radon levels you can add a fan and airtight cover. 

 
Had a subfloor leak in a circulating boiler pipe in April spiral into a basement reno that is ongoing. Some reno was unavoidable but ended up gutting 3 rooms. Your basic 1960's transformation... popcorn ceilings, fake wood wall paneling, outdated lighting, soffit removal and retile bathroom. Possible fireplace update on the horizon. Hardest job to learn on the fly was installing 10 pre-hung doors. Just level the hell out of everything and every direction, with a long level. I learned that maybe 6 doors in.   

 
Thanks.  So is the passive system actually doing anything if there are other holes in the lid that let the radon into the basement?
It's barely working but depending on the levels in your house, that might be enough.

I employ everyone to call around your area and ask about renting a "radon e-perm canisters". If you call a home inspector you will pay 3-4x what it will cost you if you do the test yourself. 

Best bet is to pretend  you're a home inspector when you ask or try searching for local labs that will rent the equipment to you directly. 

Basically it's two cannisters with twist open tops, you hang from a door jam, preferably in the lowest level, away from your HVAC unit and drywer. Keep all the windows closed. 

Open and leave the test kit for 48-72 hours, close them up and return them to the lab. 

4.0 pci/l or below is acceptable. 4.0 or higher and either re-test or install an active radon system. (Add a specially made fan)

 
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It's barely working but depending on the levels in your house, that might be enough.

I employ everyone to call around your area and ask about renting a "radon e-perm canisters". If you call a home inspector you will pay 3-4x what it will cost you if you do the test yourself. 

Best bet is to pretend  you're a home inspector when you ask or try searching for local labs that will rent the equipment to you directly. 

Basically it's two cannisters with twist open tops, you hang from a door jam, preferably in the lowest level, away from your HVAC unit and drywer. Keep all the windows closed. 

Open and leave the test kit for 48-72 hours, close them up and return them to the lab. 

4.0 pci/l or below is acceptable. 4.0 or higher and either re-test or install an active radon system. (Add a specially made fan)
Where would one call to rent these?

 
Except Easy Track isn't wire shelving, it's wood components.    The idea of this system is you simply hang a metal track on the wall and then all the component wood pieces just rest on this track.  And they don't go all the way to the ground so no need to F around with cutting around baseboards, etc.    

http://www.easytrack.com/
My bad - thought it was the same thing.  They need to differentiate names.  I can't keep them all straight.  Closetmaid, Rubbermaid...Easy Track, Shelf Track, etc...

 
Not a project just a question.

Sump pump float was getting stuck.  I realized that when the lid is on, the pipe hole is in a position that pushes the entire pump in one direction.  I opened the hole up (not very prettily) to relieve it.  Is there a reason the lid needs to be sealed? There is a secondary pipe that runs air from the pit to the outside.  I am assuming to allow radon gas to escape? But it is not hooked up to a fan or anything so not sure if it really does anything.  
No reason I know of that it needs to be sealed.  A few years ago (Hurricane Irene), our power went out and our then-unfinished basement flooded.  The sump pit had a sealed plywood lid on it.  In order to pump out the 6" of water, I had to bust it open so the water could escape into the pit once the pump cut back on.  I replaced it with a thin plexiglass cover with a hinged lid for access.  It's not airtight.  I also have the secondary vent pipe, and I do think it's for radon.  I also have 2 active (fan driven) radon vents.  I can tell you that when I have that plexi cover closed, there's a very clear sound of air going INTO the pit through the hinges.  The plexi also bows down slightly indicating suction in the pit.  I imagine the vent pipe draws significant air even without a fan and that sufficiently vents the pit and any radon.

I'm planning to re-do my pit lid when I get time with a plywood lid with a window built into it, just for more structural strength.  I almost had a disaster yesterday with all the rain we got in NJ.  On a whim, I went downstairs and checked the pit, and the pump float was 4" under water.  Seems the power strip I had it plugged into tripped and the sump wasn't pumping.  Needless to say I removed the power strip and it drained quickly, but that could've been bad since our basement is finished now.  I need to get a new battery for the back-up too.  I've almost always got some water in my pit.  I've seen it completely dry once in the 6 years we've lived there.  

 
Thanks.  So is the passive system actually doing anything if there are other holes in the lid that let the radon into the basement?
no you should caulk up those gaps and holes brohan in all seriousness take that to the bank

 
i think for radon you want a rating of less than 4 picoliters but less than 2 is even better my basement was at like 15 when i finally got it tested which i guess if that is what kills me will be interesting becuause that will mean that radon beat the other tons of crap i have been exposed to in wash tanks food plant work etc but anyhow we had a system put in and it dropped to like 1 point something so the systems do knock the hell of the stuff in my experience i think ours was about a grand installed and that included going through the roof for the vent stack take that to the bank brohan 

 
Fat Nick said:
No reason I know of that it needs to be sealed.  A few years ago (Hurricane Irene), our power went out and our then-unfinished basement flooded.  The sump pit had a sealed plywood lid on it.  In order to pump out the 6" of water, I had to bust it open so the water could escape into the pit once the pump cut back on.  I replaced it with a thin plexiglass cover with a hinged lid for access.  It's not airtight.  I also have the secondary vent pipe, and I do think it's for radon.  I also have 2 active (fan driven) radon vents.  I can tell you that when I have that plexi cover closed, there's a very clear sound of air going INTO the pit through the hinges.  The plexi also bows down slightly indicating suction in the pit.  I imagine the vent pipe draws significant air even without a fan and that sufficiently vents the pit and any radon.

I'm planning to re-do my pit lid when I get time with a plywood lid with a window built into it, just for more structural strength.  I almost had a disaster yesterday with all the rain we got in NJ.  On a whim, I went downstairs and checked the pit, and the pump float was 4" under water.  Seems the power strip I had it plugged into tripped and the sump wasn't pumping.  Needless to say I removed the power strip and it drained quickly, but that could've been bad since our basement is finished now.  I need to get a new battery for the back-up too.  I've almost always got some water in my pit.  I've seen it completely dry once in the 6 years we've lived there.  
I'd recommended running a dedicate line from the circuit breaker to the pit in addition to the battery backup.

I learned this the hard way, when an outdoor outlet that was on the same circuit shorted out which caused it to trip.

 
SWC said:
no you should caulk up those gaps and holes brohan in all seriousness take that to the bank
This would prevent me from looking in there regularly to make sure it is in good working order, brochacho.

 
I posted this in the Oatis thread, but figured I'd repost here.  I've had my house about 8 years, but bought new, so this is my first real project besides replacement AC.

I'm actually just working on accepting a contract to do a patio today.  I'm extending a patio 14" off the back of my house with a bench along the edge and pergola covering it.  I didn't want to mess with expense/hassle of expanding off my roof, and I already have 4 feet or so of roof covered patio for a small fully covered seating area.  My biggest decision was the covering, I'd always wanted to do flagstone, but that came to a $30,000 project, where stained and scored concrete saved me almost $8,000.  So for my level of house, I think the stained scored is a better option for return with looks almost as good as the full flagstone.

I'm going to have them add in a fan, we are in Texas, so it's needed, and I'll probably do speakers myself, and maybe TV.  Not sure about lighting, as I already have a light on my covered part of the patio, but I could probably do something nicer.

I'm pretty excited to have this ready for spring.

 
This would prevent me from looking in there regularly to make sure it is in good working order, brochacho.
get a piece of plexiglass and make your cover out of it that is what i did brochacho take that to the being lazy is the mother of all invention bank 

 
I'd recommended running a dedicate line from the circuit breaker to the pit in addition to the battery backup.

I learned this the hard way, when an outdoor outlet that was on the same circuit shorted out which caused it to trip.
I've actually got this already - One outlet that runs the main sump and the battery back-up - just that one outlet, with its own breaker.  Where my fault came in was at one point I was using a Battery Tender to try and get my battery backup's battery in better condition (wasn't holding a charge), so I needed a 3rd outlet.  I plugged a power strip in, and had the sump plugged into that.  Clearly too much amperage for the power strip, which I think was my issue.

 
Welp. Just put a deposit down to get my deck redone.  After 20 years it needs some work.

Decided to spend the money on Trex. God is materials expensive

Luckily a friend of mine just started doing contract work full time.  I was dreading having to do it myself but I'm paying him

 
New toilets for everyone at the ECB house. Think I'll install that new bathroom fan I've had in the garage for a year tomorrow. 
You have no idea how much better the bolded makes me feel. I've only been here a few months, but sometimes I get embarrassed about all the stuff I leave sitting brand new in a box that I haven't had time/desire to get to yet. I've even gone to hiding stuff from the ol' lady so she'll stop asking when I'm going to install it.  It seems like the priority list gets shuffled daily.

But I did finally get around to putting in the new kitchen faucet. The hold up was getting the old faucet out. I have been working on a rusted basin nut that "I thought" needed to be removed. I've bought all kinds of basin wrenches, basin buddy's, and various plumbers tools trying like hell to break this nut free. So, last night I was debating between the oscillating tool or the angle grinder to cut this ####er off. But before I did that, I wanted to unhook the supply lines from the faucet, so that when I cut this thing free, it would all come out. I took off the 2 supply line nuts and :bag:  the whole faucet came right off.

Anyway, installing the new one was a breeze, of course. If anybody is in the market for a kitchen faucet, the Delta Allentown is awesome for $150. Great height, pull out sprayer, fits 1, 3, or 4 hole sinks. Easy to install. Supply lines included and already connected. Love this thing. 

Old crappy, leaky, short faucet 

New faucet

Don't care too much about soap dispenser, but it looks nice and may as well use the 4th hole for something

 
hey man in your pollardspictures you have hot sauce a coffee cup and a beer so no matter what you are doing ok in my book and nice job on that the faucet and soaper looks great take that to the bank brohan 

 
Welp. Just put a deposit down to get my deck redone.  After 20 years it needs some work.

Decided to spend the money on Trex. God is materials expensive

Luckily a friend of mine just started doing contract work full time.  I was dreading having to do it myself but I'm paying him
Materials are crazy expensive, but I think it's worth it.  It was painful spending $60+ for a 20' board...but after I spray it off in the spring, mine looks brand new every season.

 
Materials are crazy expensive, but I think it's worth it.  It was painful spending $60+ for a 20' board...but after I spray it off in the spring, mine looks brand new every season.
Yeah the boards, posts, rails, fascia it just adds up. And I'm only ~400 

Granted we did get a tiny upgrade with the railings and balusters.   All in I'm around 6500k for just materials. 

 
Yeah the boards, posts, rails, fascia it just adds up. And I'm only ~400 

Granted we did get a tiny upgrade with the railings and balusters.   All in I'm around 6500k for just materials. 
Sounds about right - I was at $10,400 for my trex materials (Transcend decking, railing, fascia, lighted posts) for a little over 500 sq. ft.  I tore my whole deck up and started from scratch - new footers, everything.  All-in materials, tool purchases, and equipment rentals I was at $15K.  If I'd hired someone, it would've easily cost me $25K.  

 
Sounds about right - I was at $10,400 for my trex materials (Transcend decking, railing, fascia, lighted posts) for a little over 500 sq. ft.  I tore my whole deck up and started from scratch - new footers, everything.  All-in materials, tool purchases, and equipment rentals I was at $15K.  If I'd hired someone, it would've easily cost me $25K.  
Thanks. I feel like my 9500 is a steal :)

Reusing my framing unless it's beat up.  He's doing the tear down

 
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Ok we are in the planning stages of a fairly large renovation of our 1902 brownstone in Brooklyn.  The house consists of three floors (garden floor, 1st floor and 2nd floor) and a true basement that is only usable for storage as it is entirely below ground.  1st floor has large stoop entryway and garden floor has entryway under the stoop.  

The prior owners had used it as a two family with top two floors as owners duplex and a garden floor rental but we plan to convert back into its original form as a single family house.  Total house size is about 3,000 square feet (excluding the true basement).  The prior owner had taken excellent care of the top two floors and includes many original details (stain glass windows, original modelings, original parquet flooring, original pocket doors, hand carved original woodwork, etc.) though kitchen needs updating and is small. Both bathrooms on upper floors were done in last 5 years so they are fine.  On the other hand the garden floor he didn't spend his money on so is in a bit of disrepair and doesn't fit our needs. Luckily the prior owner in creating the rental had just closed off an internal stairwell with a wall where the banister would be and a door at the top of the stairwell on the 1st floor so we are already using it as a single family by just keeping that door open.  Our plans are in two phases with first phase starting in early summer and second phase maybe a year later.  I have lined up the two phases below.   

Phase 1 (gut renovation of existing garden floor)

- Remove an existing kitchen and replacing it with a wet bar (sink, small dishwasher and a second fridge)

- Creating a large family room (about 24 by about 18) by removing wall between kitchen and existing living room (wet bar will be in this room).

- Remodeling bathroom that was put in place in mid-sixties (bathroom will be moved slightly as well to push it into the existing bedroom on garden floor to make family room larger)

- Expanding and remodeling front entryway to create a family mudroom.  We already use this entry for kids as 1st floor entry is formal and old fashioned (not really good hanger/coat/shoe space)

- shrinking size of bedroom on garden floor which is currently very large and not necessary for our needs to make family room larger and create mudroom .  A bed for guests will remain in the room but it will be primarily be my home office.  

- Replacing back wall with glass wall and two glass doors to back yard

- Replacing old worn out cement back patio with new bluestone patio

- Add central air throughout the entire house

Phase 2 (expand and update kitchen)

- Remodel entire kitchen including by removing the existing wall between kitchen and dinning room to create large eat-in kitchen with island and dinning room table.

- Remove wall and door used to separate 1st floor from garden floor and install original banisters from 1902 that the prior owner saved when creating the wall and dividing the house.

Idea behind phasing is that garden floor needs much more work and since it is brownstone the only access to backyard is through the house so materials for backyard need to be brought in and carried through the house so backyard and garden floor should be done at the same time.  Also, we can close off the entire floor while it is in construction so hopefully it doesn't impact our lives too much as there is enough room on top two floors for us to live on.  My wife and kids plan to move to the beach house for the summer for phase 1.  Phase 2 will probably be year later with goal to try and complete as much as possible over a summer as wife and kids can move to beach but could be delayed another year.  I of course need to stay in NYC to work and pay for all of this. 

 
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good luck with that reno project bromigo it sounds like it will be awesome when you are done maybe keep us up to date with pictures along the way and if you do not do that for us then make sure you have them for yourself and if you ever decide to sell it is could help by showing a potential purchaser all the work you did along the way and maybe you get a higher selling price that you can take to the bank

 
good luck with that reno project bromigo it sounds like it will be awesome when you are done maybe keep us up to date with pictures along the way and if you do not do that for us then make sure you have them for yourself and if you ever decide to sell it is could help by showing a potential purchaser all the work you did along the way and maybe you get a higher selling price that you can take to the bank
Yup, was planning to post pictures for folks to see and will probably start with existing floor plan if anyone has interest.  

 
Tipping question.

Just had a company come out and spend five days at the house.  They gutted and re-did the crawl space and attic as well as dig trenches and put in underground drainage for my roof water.   I'm spending $7,500 on this project.  

Should I tip them?

 
Tipping question.

Just had a company come out and spend five days at the house.  They gutted and re-did the crawl space and attic as well as dig trenches and put in underground drainage for my roof water.   I'm spending $7,500 on this project.  

Should I tip them?
No.  Just....no.

 
My old 1968 Ford 4000 diesel tractor is a good working tractor and I’ve always fixed everything on it myself, often with the help of my FIL and/or friend. I’ve had no lights for a while now and really needed them for night field plowing and possible snow pushing. Being as old as it is, the wiring is a beast due to owners doing spaghetti fixes. I just couldn’t figure it out after working on it this weekend a lot.

I cannot tell you how happy I was and the sense of accomplishment when my three new 27w LED floodlights lit up! It’s so awesome. It was a faulty ground that I had previously shined up and reattached, but I didn’t know it was the culprit until I used a test light on it. Had to move the ground to a different piece of steel. 

I’ll be adding a fourth LED flood to the Ford and wiring four to the ROPS on my Kubota tractor too. The stock  lights on these things are ridiculously bad.

 
Not a project but a tool question....I am in the market for a new cordless drill.  I am replacing an old Dewalt and it was a good drill so I am leaning towards this...

Dewalt Cordless

Anyone else have this set or want to talk me into something else?

 
Not a project but a tool question....I am in the market for a new cordless drill.  I am replacing an old Dewalt and it was a good drill so I am leaning towards this...

Dewalt Cordless

Anyone else have this set or want to talk me into something else?
I have the 18volt of those 2 and love the impact driver :shrug:

Actually got this set on sale for like 199 - 2y ears ago.  Obviously not lithium though

https://www.lowesforpros.com/power-tool-combo-kits/dewalt-4-tool-18-volt-nickel-cadmium-nicd-cordless-combo-kit-with-soft-case_g2442044.html

 
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My wife reminded me today that we need to put up a backsplash.  We have been in the new construction house for a year now, and have probably cooked daily.  I'm sure there has been some oil/sauce/who-the-hell-knows splattered on the wall.  Its just crappily painted drywall. 

Is there any step I need to do to prep this area like clean it with more than soap and water?  I

I really don't want to spend the money on this, but I think I have no choice. 

 
Three weeks ago my water softener started going bad and the water pressure is the house went to ####. So I bypassed the water softener and shopped around for one. Researched best models that were affordable. My wife was pissed that her skin was getting all dried out and figured out the softener bypass and turned it back on. The rush of water blew out the filter media and a ton of grit. Clogged every faucet in the house and most of the pipes, including the hot water heater. 

I drained everything 8 times total. I ha e installed a new kitchen faucet, one bathroom faucet. I have become an expert at fixing Delta Monitor bathroom faucets. The bathroom faucets took a few days. Replaced the fill valves and water lines in the toilets. Imstalled a new water softener, added a whole house filter, and replaced the water heater.

The only thing I haven't been able to replace yet is the wife. Too expensive.

 
Home Depot has the 18v NiCad for 99 and the Li Ion for 149.  It seems everything is moving to Li Ion so was leaning towards that set.
Oh I would totally get lithium I just picked that one up like I said because I figured everything was going lithium

 
My wife reminded me today that we need to put up a backsplash.  We have been in the new construction house for a year now, and have probably cooked daily.  I'm sure there has been some oil/sauce/who-the-hell-knows splattered on the wall.  Its just crappily painted drywall. 

Is there any step I need to do to prep this area like clean it with more than soap and water?  I

I really don't want to spend the money on this, but I think I have no choice. 
Cleaning with soap and water is all you need.  

We picked out a backsplash where it was a mixture of different tiles. It looks great but the tiles all had different thickness and some were porous. The different thickness made grouting a pain. And we had to seal the tiles first so they wouldn’t discolor.  Something to keep in mind when you are shopping. 

 
Tipping question.

Just had a company come out and spend five days at the house.  They gutted and re-did the crawl space and attic as well as dig trenches and put in underground drainage for my roof water.   I'm spending $7,500 on this project.  

Should I tip them?
with any crew that is working on my house—I just keep a nice cooler filed with water and gatorade. Maybe I'll order pizzas for them on occasion. That usually keeps them more then happy. 

 
Ok we are in the planning stages of a fairly large renovation of our 1902 brownstone in Brooklyn.  The house consists of three floors (garden floor, 1st floor and 2nd floor) and a true basement that is only usable for storage as it is entirely below ground.  1st floor has large stoop entryway and garden floor has entryway under the stoop.  
good luck, as someone going through a large scale renovation now, i'm hearing you. If you are going to live in the house while they are working, it is best to break it into phases. We are just finishing phase 1 and IDK how i would have survived if we did both at the same time. It may take a little longer and cost a penny more, but the physical disruption on your day to day is tough to forecast until you are into it. I've been "camping" with my daughter on mattresses in our den since September and it really does start to suck. 

GL...Brownstones like that are real gems and really beautiful. 

 
with any crew that is working on my house—I just keep a nice cooler filed with water and gatorade. Maybe I'll order pizzas for them on occasion. That usually keeps them more then happy. 
I was good to them.  Offered snacks and water all days.   No tip.   

 
My wife reminded me today that we need to put up a backsplash.  We have been in the new construction house for a year now, and have probably cooked daily.  I'm sure there has been some oil/sauce/who-the-hell-knows splattered on the wall.  Its just crappily painted drywall. 

Is there any step I need to do to prep this area like clean it with more than soap and water?  I

I really don't want to spend the money on this, but I think I have no choice. 
We were in our new build for about 6 years before doing backsplash. I did zero prep on the wall and backsplash has been fine for a few years.

 
Not a project but a tool question....I am in the market for a new cordless drill.  I am replacing an old Dewalt and it was a good drill so I am leaning towards this...

Dewalt Cordless

Anyone else have this set or want to talk me into something else?
I have the 20v of the large one and am really happy. I hate the softcase though

 
Not a project but a tool question....I am in the market for a new cordless drill.  I am replacing an old Dewalt and it was a good drill so I am leaning towards this...

Dewalt Cordless

Anyone else have this set or want to talk me into something else?
I have had this (20v) sitting in the box in my garage for a year now.  I can't seem to find my corded dewalt (someone likely borrowed it) so I am going to break this out and charge the batteries up and use it today.

I need to drill 8 holes through 1/16" stainless, so we will see if this drill will be up to the task.  I am not hopeful, but my drill press is at the other house and I don't feel like running back and forth today.

I will report back.  

 
Thinking about digging and building a little 5 x 5 pond.  I actually started digging today.  Don't plan to have a fountain or waterfall....just a nice little pond with stone, racks a plants.  Has anyone done this?   It looks pretty easy.... just need the liner, rocks, stones and plants.   

 
My backyard had a slope to it which prevented us from being able to use it like we wanted. Last week, I had 125 tons of dirt brought in to flatten it out. It ended up looking fantastic. I'll still need to do a layer of topsoil, seed and straw in March. 

One of the dump-trucks ran over the corner of my neighbor's lawn down the street when leaving the neighborhood. The neighbor asked me for the name of the company to repair their lawn...so to keep the peace, I spent an hour and a half yesterday morning propping up the soil and grass of the two 8ft tracks.  

 
My backyard had a slope to it which prevented us from being able to use it like we wanted. Last week, I had 125 tons of dirt brought in to flatten it out. It ended up looking fantastic. I'll still need to do a layer of topsoil, seed and straw in March. 

One of the dump-trucks ran over the corner of my neighbor's lawn down the street when leaving the neighborhood. The neighbor asked me for the name of the company to repair their lawn...so to keep the peace, I spent an hour and a half yesterday morning propping up the soil and grass of the two 8ft tracks.  
You do anything about drainage? 

 

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