The Z Machine
Footballguy
About a year and change ago.When did you move from golf to this?
About a year and change ago.When did you move from golf to this?
Gas relief is the only thing i can think of.Not a project just a question.
Sump pump float was getting stuck. I realized that when the lid is on, the pipe hole is in a position that pushes the entire pump in one direction. I opened the hole up (not very prettily) to relieve it. Is there a reason the lid needs to be sealed? There is a secondary pipe that runs air from the pit to the outside. I am assuming to allow radon gas to escape? But it is not hooked up to a fan or anything so not sure if it really does anything.
I returned it. I have an eave mount that is 11’ high. The floodlight says to mount at 9’ to be optimal. I mounted it anyway to see what happened. The video was fairly clear, but the notifications lagged behind. I returned it and chalked it up to being above the ideal height.I'm curious how you like that once you get it in...
Passive radon system. All new homes require them. If you have high radon levels you can add a fan and airtight cover.Not a project just a question.
Sump pump float was getting stuck. I realized that when the lid is on, the pipe hole is in a position that pushes the entire pump in one direction. I opened the hole up (not very prettily) to relieve it. Is there a reason the lid needs to be sealed? There is a secondary pipe that runs air from the pit to the outside. I am assuming to allow radon gas to escape? But it is not hooked up to a fan or anything so not sure if it really does anything.
Thanks. So is the passive system actually doing anything if there are other holes in the lid that let the radon into the basement?Passive radon system. All new homes require them. If you have high radon levels you can add a fan and airtight cover.
It's barely working but depending on the levels in your house, that might be enough.Thanks. So is the passive system actually doing anything if there are other holes in the lid that let the radon into the basement?
Where would one call to rent these?It's barely working but depending on the levels in your house, that might be enough.
I employ everyone to call around your area and ask about renting a "radon e-perm canisters". If you call a home inspector you will pay 3-4x what it will cost you if you do the test yourself.
Best bet is to pretend you're a home inspector when you ask or try searching for local labs that will rent the equipment to you directly.
Basically it's two cannisters with twist open tops, you hang from a door jam, preferably in the lowest level, away from your HVAC unit and drywer. Keep all the windows closed.
Open and leave the test kit for 48-72 hours, close them up and return them to the lab.
4.0 pci/l or below is acceptable. 4.0 or higher and either re-test or install an active radon system. (Add a specially made fan)
My bad - thought it was the same thing. They need to differentiate names. I can't keep them all straight. Closetmaid, Rubbermaid...Easy Track, Shelf Track, etc...Except Easy Track isn't wire shelving, it's wood components. The idea of this system is you simply hang a metal track on the wall and then all the component wood pieces just rest on this track. And they don't go all the way to the ground so no need to F around with cutting around baseboards, etc.
http://www.easytrack.com/
No reason I know of that it needs to be sealed. A few years ago (Hurricane Irene), our power went out and our then-unfinished basement flooded. The sump pit had a sealed plywood lid on it. In order to pump out the 6" of water, I had to bust it open so the water could escape into the pit once the pump cut back on. I replaced it with a thin plexiglass cover with a hinged lid for access. It's not airtight. I also have the secondary vent pipe, and I do think it's for radon. I also have 2 active (fan driven) radon vents. I can tell you that when I have that plexi cover closed, there's a very clear sound of air going INTO the pit through the hinges. The plexi also bows down slightly indicating suction in the pit. I imagine the vent pipe draws significant air even without a fan and that sufficiently vents the pit and any radon.Not a project just a question.
Sump pump float was getting stuck. I realized that when the lid is on, the pipe hole is in a position that pushes the entire pump in one direction. I opened the hole up (not very prettily) to relieve it. Is there a reason the lid needs to be sealed? There is a secondary pipe that runs air from the pit to the outside. I am assuming to allow radon gas to escape? But it is not hooked up to a fan or anything so not sure if it really does anything.
no you should caulk up those gaps and holes brohan in all seriousness take that to the bankThanks. So is the passive system actually doing anything if there are other holes in the lid that let the radon into the basement?
I'd recommended running a dedicate line from the circuit breaker to the pit in addition to the battery backup.Fat Nick said:No reason I know of that it needs to be sealed. A few years ago (Hurricane Irene), our power went out and our then-unfinished basement flooded. The sump pit had a sealed plywood lid on it. In order to pump out the 6" of water, I had to bust it open so the water could escape into the pit once the pump cut back on. I replaced it with a thin plexiglass cover with a hinged lid for access. It's not airtight. I also have the secondary vent pipe, and I do think it's for radon. I also have 2 active (fan driven) radon vents. I can tell you that when I have that plexi cover closed, there's a very clear sound of air going INTO the pit through the hinges. The plexi also bows down slightly indicating suction in the pit. I imagine the vent pipe draws significant air even without a fan and that sufficiently vents the pit and any radon.
I'm planning to re-do my pit lid when I get time with a plywood lid with a window built into it, just for more structural strength. I almost had a disaster yesterday with all the rain we got in NJ. On a whim, I went downstairs and checked the pit, and the pump float was 4" under water. Seems the power strip I had it plugged into tripped and the sump wasn't pumping. Needless to say I removed the power strip and it drained quickly, but that could've been bad since our basement is finished now. I need to get a new battery for the back-up too. I've almost always got some water in my pit. I've seen it completely dry once in the 6 years we've lived there.
This would prevent me from looking in there regularly to make sure it is in good working order, brochacho.SWC said:no you should caulk up those gaps and holes brohan in all seriousness take that to the bank
get a piece of plexiglass and make your cover out of it that is what i did brochacho take that to the being lazy is the mother of all invention bankThis would prevent me from looking in there regularly to make sure it is in good working order, brochacho.
I've actually got this already - One outlet that runs the main sump and the battery back-up - just that one outlet, with its own breaker. Where my fault came in was at one point I was using a Battery Tender to try and get my battery backup's battery in better condition (wasn't holding a charge), so I needed a 3rd outlet. I plugged a power strip in, and had the sump plugged into that. Clearly too much amperage for the power strip, which I think was my issue.I'd recommended running a dedicate line from the circuit breaker to the pit in addition to the battery backup.
I learned this the hard way, when an outdoor outlet that was on the same circuit shorted out which caused it to trip.
You have no idea how much better the bolded makes me feel. I've only been here a few months, but sometimes I get embarrassed about all the stuff I leave sitting brand new in a box that I haven't had time/desire to get to yet. I've even gone to hiding stuff from the ol' lady so she'll stop asking when I'm going to install it. It seems like the priority list gets shuffled daily.New toilets for everyone at the ECB house. Think I'll install that new bathroom fan I've had in the garage for a year tomorrow.
the whole faucet came right off.Materials are crazy expensive, but I think it's worth it. It was painful spending $60+ for a 20' board...but after I spray it off in the spring, mine looks brand new every season.Welp. Just put a deposit down to get my deck redone. After 20 years it needs some work.
Decided to spend the money on Trex. God is materials expensive
Luckily a friend of mine just started doing contract work full time. I was dreading having to do it myself but I'm paying him
Yeah the boards, posts, rails, fascia it just adds up. And I'm only ~400Materials are crazy expensive, but I think it's worth it. It was painful spending $60+ for a 20' board...but after I spray it off in the spring, mine looks brand new every season.
Sounds about right - I was at $10,400 for my trex materials (Transcend decking, railing, fascia, lighted posts) for a little over 500 sq. ft. I tore my whole deck up and started from scratch - new footers, everything. All-in materials, tool purchases, and equipment rentals I was at $15K. If I'd hired someone, it would've easily cost me $25K.Yeah the boards, posts, rails, fascia it just adds up. And I'm only ~400
Granted we did get a tiny upgrade with the railings and balusters. All in I'm around 6500k for just materials.
Thanks. I feel like my 9500 is a stealSounds about right - I was at $10,400 for my trex materials (Transcend decking, railing, fascia, lighted posts) for a little over 500 sq. ft. I tore my whole deck up and started from scratch - new footers, everything. All-in materials, tool purchases, and equipment rentals I was at $15K. If I'd hired someone, it would've easily cost me $25K.
Yup, was planning to post pictures for folks to see and will probably start with existing floor plan if anyone has interest.good luck with that reno project bromigo it sounds like it will be awesome when you are done maybe keep us up to date with pictures along the way and if you do not do that for us then make sure you have them for yourself and if you ever decide to sell it is could help by showing a potential purchaser all the work you did along the way and maybe you get a higher selling price that you can take to the bank
No. Just....no.Tipping question.
Just had a company come out and spend five days at the house. They gutted and re-did the crawl space and attic as well as dig trenches and put in underground drainage for my roof water. I'm spending $7,500 on this project.
Should I tip them?
I have the 18volt of those 2 and love the impact driverNot a project but a tool question....I am in the market for a new cordless drill. I am replacing an old Dewalt and it was a good drill so I am leaning towards this...
Dewalt Cordless
Anyone else have this set or want to talk me into something else?
Tear down today!Thanks. I feel like my 9500 is a steal![]()
Reusing my framing unless it's beat up. He's doing the tear down
Home Depot has the 18v NiCad for 99 and the Li Ion for 149. It seems everything is moving to Li Ion so was leaning towards that set.I have the 18volt of those 2 and love the impact driver![]()
Actually got this set on sale for like 199 - 2y ears ago. Obviously not lithium though
https://www.lowesforpros.com/power-tool-combo-kits/dewalt-4-tool-18-volt-nickel-cadmium-nicd-cordless-combo-kit-with-soft-case_g2442044.html
Oh I would totally get lithium I just picked that one up like I said because I figured everything was going lithiumHome Depot has the 18v NiCad for 99 and the Li Ion for 149. It seems everything is moving to Li Ion so was leaning towards that set.
Cleaning with soap and water is all you need.My wife reminded me today that we need to put up a backsplash. We have been in the new construction house for a year now, and have probably cooked daily. I'm sure there has been some oil/sauce/who-the-hell-knows splattered on the wall. Its just crappily painted drywall.
Is there any step I need to do to prep this area like clean it with more than soap and water? I
I really don't want to spend the money on this, but I think I have no choice.
with any crew that is working on my house—I just keep a nice cooler filed with water and gatorade. Maybe I'll order pizzas for them on occasion. That usually keeps them more then happy.Tipping question.
Just had a company come out and spend five days at the house. They gutted and re-did the crawl space and attic as well as dig trenches and put in underground drainage for my roof water. I'm spending $7,500 on this project.
Should I tip them?
good luck, as someone going through a large scale renovation now, i'm hearing you. If you are going to live in the house while they are working, it is best to break it into phases. We are just finishing phase 1 and IDK how i would have survived if we did both at the same time. It may take a little longer and cost a penny more, but the physical disruption on your day to day is tough to forecast until you are into it. I've been "camping" with my daughter on mattresses in our den since September and it really does start to suck.Ok we are in the planning stages of a fairly large renovation of our 1902 brownstone in Brooklyn. The house consists of three floors (garden floor, 1st floor and 2nd floor) and a true basement that is only usable for storage as it is entirely below ground. 1st floor has large stoop entryway and garden floor has entryway under the stoop.
I was good to them. Offered snacks and water all days. No tip.with any crew that is working on my house—I just keep a nice cooler filed with water and gatorade. Maybe I'll order pizzas for them on occasion. That usually keeps them more then happy.
We were in our new build for about 6 years before doing backsplash. I did zero prep on the wall and backsplash has been fine for a few years.My wife reminded me today that we need to put up a backsplash. We have been in the new construction house for a year now, and have probably cooked daily. I'm sure there has been some oil/sauce/who-the-hell-knows splattered on the wall. Its just crappily painted drywall.
Is there any step I need to do to prep this area like clean it with more than soap and water? I
I really don't want to spend the money on this, but I think I have no choice.
I have the 20v of the large one and am really happy. I hate the softcase thoughNot a project but a tool question....I am in the market for a new cordless drill. I am replacing an old Dewalt and it was a good drill so I am leaning towards this...
Dewalt Cordless
Anyone else have this set or want to talk me into something else?
I have had this (20v) sitting in the box in my garage for a year now. I can't seem to find my corded dewalt (someone likely borrowed it) so I am going to break this out and charge the batteries up and use it today.Not a project but a tool question....I am in the market for a new cordless drill. I am replacing an old Dewalt and it was a good drill so I am leaning towards this...
Dewalt Cordless
Anyone else have this set or want to talk me into something else?
You do anything about drainage?My backyard had a slope to it which prevented us from being able to use it like we wanted. Last week, I had 125 tons of dirt brought in to flatten it out. It ended up looking fantastic. I'll still need to do a layer of topsoil, seed and straw in March.
One of the dump-trucks ran over the corner of my neighbor's lawn down the street when leaving the neighborhood. The neighbor asked me for the name of the company to repair their lawn...so to keep the peace, I spent an hour and a half yesterday morning propping up the soil and grass of the two 8ft tracks.