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Home-owners...What are your current projects? (4 Viewers)

Rainy season has started here in Florida, Ive dragged my feet enough and need to have rain gutters installed real soon...before I get a few estimates, anyone here have gutters installed recently that can give me an idea of what I might be looking at cost wise? Is seamless aluminum the way to go? I'm looking at about 190 linear feet total, and probably 4-6 down spouts on a single story house. If it runs me $1500 or less, I'll be pretty happy.

Also, gonna put porcelain tile down on my covered backyard porch in the next few weeks (over cement slab)...it's only about 9 x 12 feet so it's not a huge project, but I've never done tile before so that should be fun. I've got a buddy who used to do tile for a living, he's gonna bring his tile saw over and says we can knock it out in an afternoon. Once the tile is down, Im gonna have it screened in. I'll post before and after pics when it's done.

 
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Wingnut said:
Rainy season has started here in Florida, Ive dragged my feet enough and need to have rain gutters installed real soon...before I get a few estimates, anyone here have gutters installed recently that can give me an idea of what I might be looking at cost wise? Is seamless aluminum the way to go? I'm looking at about 190 linear feet total, and probably 4-6 down spouts on a single story house. If it runs me $1500 or less, I'll be pretty happy.

Also, gonna put porcelain tile down on my covered backyard porch in the next few weeks (over cement slab)...it's only about 9 x 12 feet so it's not a huge project, but I've never done tile before so that should be fun. I've got a buddy who used to do tile for a living, he's gonna bring his tile saw over and says we can knock it out in an afternoon. Once the tile is down, Im gonna have it screened in. I'll post before and after pics when it's done.
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How slippery is that tile when wet?

 
Wingnut said:
Rainy season has started here in Florida, Ive dragged my feet enough and need to have rain gutters installed real soon...before I get a few estimates, anyone here have gutters installed recently that can give me an idea of what I might be looking at cost wise? Is seamless aluminum the way to go? I'm looking at about 190 linear feet total, and probably 4-6 down spouts on a single story house. If it runs me $1500 or less, I'll be pretty happy.

Also, gonna put porcelain tile down on my covered backyard porch in the next few weeks (over cement slab)...it's only about 9 x 12 feet so it's not a huge project, but I've never done tile before so that should be fun. I've got a buddy who used to do tile for a living, he's gonna bring his tile saw over and says we can knock it out in an afternoon. Once the tile is down, Im gonna have it screened in. I'll post before and after pics when it's done.
Click to expand...
Do you really need gutters?  They sometimes cause more problems than they solve, especially if your near trees that drop lots of leaves.  I have gutters between my screen enclosure and roof, and don't have any major leaf droppers on my property.  I still have to clean out the gutter 2x a year from my neighbors oak 40ft away.

In the front and sides I let it just run off the roof on to the planter or grass.  The sides, the grass has a little drip indention, but not a huge deal.  I put rocks in the spots that the water comes off of hard.  They have water rings to help water trickle down to prevent erosion.  

 
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Whoever decided that using Liquid Nail 40 years ago to hold up ceiling drywall needs to be shot.  Also, whoever decided that doing a swirl texture on ceilings was good idea (I know it was to save time/money, same as crappy popcorn ceilings).

When we bought our house 12 years ago I noticed a few rooms had some sagging drywall ceilings.  You could see the outline of the 4'x12' sheet and the middle was down 1/2" or so (could easily push the middle up).  The idiots who built my house used roughly 6 nails per piece of drywall, and the rest was help up by liquid nail, which after 40 years starts to lose its adhesive qualities. The upstairs hallway was really bad so after we bought the house I added about 50 screws in a 8'x8' area to pull it back up.  Because of the stupid swirl texture I couldn't just mud the area, and tried to fill in each individual screw head and then put several heavy coats of paint.  One bedroom was really bad, we had to add a ton of screws and ended up adding a 1/4" layer of drywall instead of trying ot match the texture and cover spots where we had to cut the drywall to get it to go back up.

Last night my daughter came down with a nail in her hand.  I had noticed a nail pop above her bed getting worse a few weeks ago but figured I had more time, guess all the storms we have had shook the nail loose. Now of course my wife is freaking out that all the ceilings are going to come down.  Guess I get to spend Fathers Day pushing up ceilings and screwing them in.

 
Punxsutawney Phil said:
Do you really need gutters?  They sometimes cause more problems than they solve, especially if your near trees that drop lots of leaves.  I have gutters between my screen enclosure and roof, and don't have any major leaf droppers on my property.  I still have to clean out the gutter 2x a year from my neighbors oak 40ft away.

In the front and sides I let it just run off the roof on to the planter or grass.  The sides, the grass has a little drip indention, but not a huge deal.  I put rocks in the spots that the water comes off of hard.  They have water rings to help water trickle down to prevent erosion.  
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:lmao: @ the bold.

Im in Florida. I need gutters. When it rains heavy the water coming off the roof on 3 sides of the house is like Niagra falls, and its making trenches on the ground, floods my raised planter, and makes a mess of the mulch bed along the walkway leading to my front door. And forget trying to get from the driveway to the door when its raining without getting completely drenched from the deluge coming off the roof. There are no trees around my house, so no leaves to worry about.

When we bought the house in October, the first thing we agreed on was the need for gutters all the way around.

 
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Wingnut said:
The porch is covered so while It will get some spray from rain it wont be exposed to downpours.
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A couple of before pics of the porch/patio we're gonna tile and screen in. It's gonna be a couple of weeks before we start, but I want to have some pics online I can move into an album of the progress and finished project.

https://i.imgur.com/BEonAhN.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/vNlzsxm.jpg

I'm also gonna install pull down shades inside the porch near the ceiling on either side (Something like these), a ceiling fan, and am thinking about mounting a TV in the corner above the sliding glass doors since the ceiling is 10 feet high on that side so there's plenty of room.

 
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Wingnut said:
A couple of before pics of the porch/patio we're gonna tile and screen in. It's gonna be a couple of weeks before we start, but I want to have some pics online I can move into an album of the progress and finished project.

https://i.imgur.com/BEonAhN.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/vNlzsxm.jpg

I'm also gonna install pull down shades inside the porch near the ceiling on either side (Something like these), a ceiling fan, and am thinking about mounting a TV in the corner above the sliding glass doors since the ceiling is 10 feet high on that side so there's plenty of room.
Click to expand...
That'll be nice. I'd also put several outlets in if you don't already have some out there. 

 
Mario Kart said:
I've been thinking about the following but now my problem is about upcoming years. I am cleaning beneath my arborvitae's. Bringing up most of the rocks beneath them, the weed barriers, and trimming the bottoms to get rid of the dry leaves that have accumulated. I have a lot of rocks under these things. I have to finish clearing tomorrow unless its raining. I was all set to buy mulch to put down (I need about 1 cubic yard for this band of trees) but I have a bigger tree that has lots of leaves. When that tree loses its leaves, they will mix with the mulch and then I'll have to either leave them (no pun intended) or pick them out.

Is there a way to maintain this without having so many leaves come the fall so cleaning will be easier in the future? Is mulch the right solution?
Click to expand...
All I'm going to say is for anyone doing landscape work or whatever that involves trees, soil, flowers, whatever, to never, never, never, NEVER, use rocks to make underneath look "good." Do not pass Go. Do not think about it. Do not, even if they are 100% cheaper than whatever alternative. Just don't.

Updated progress. The pile of rocks has increased but no picture of those.

 
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Buying a house with a crawl space. Inspector told me he hates crawl spaces but ours is one of the nicest he has been in. It’s about 5’ high, so you can get around pretty good.

Anyone ever encapsulate your crawl space? Any DIYers attempt it? Not sure I will need to but I have been researching it. 

 
Mario Kart said:
All I'm going to say is for anyone doing landscape work or whatever that involves trees, soil, flowers, whatever, to never, never, never, NEVER, use rocks to make underneath look "good." Do not pass Go. Do not think about it. Do not, even if they are 100% cheaper than whatever alternative. Just don't.

Updated progress. The pile of rocks has increased but no picture of those.
Click to expand...
The ground beneath the planters looks like it's a higher elevation than the pavers.  When it rains the mulch is going to flood onto them.   

 
rascal said:
leftcoastguy7 said:
 I have a two-story home.

Can you tell me how I can work on my roof safely?
Click to expand...
1. Hire someone

2. Watch from the ground while drinking a beer.

3. Post your success on fbgs.
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What he said.

I'm a decent DIY guy, except when it comes to the roof / ladders (say over 6' - I'll go a few rungs up to install a light/etc). But higher than that, I simply don't feel comfortable at all, and that's when mistakes happen.  

 
leftcoastguy7 said:
 I have a two-story home.

Can you tell me how I can work on my roof safely?
Click to expand...
If you're not scared of heights get a 32' ladder and a small couch cushion or pillow. Tie the cushion around one foot. You can walk around like a boss up there. The cushion grabs the shingles like it was meant to be.

 
Punxsutawney Phil said:
The ground beneath the planters looks like it's a higher elevation than the pavers.  When it rains the mulch is going to flood onto them.   
Click to expand...
Agreed.  I don't think we had this info when we said to take out the rocks.  Looks like some additional edging may be in order.  

 
Wingnut said:
A couple of before pics of the porch/patio we're gonna tile and screen in. It's gonna be a couple of weeks before we start, but I want to have some pics online I can move into an album of the progress and finished project.

https://i.imgur.com/BEonAhN.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/vNlzsxm.jpg

I'm also gonna install pull down shades inside the porch near the ceiling on either side (Something like these), a ceiling fan, and am thinking about mounting a TV in the corner above the sliding glass doors since the ceiling is 10 feet high on that side so there's plenty of room.
Click to expand...
that looks like a really nice area and yard you got there bromigo well done and congrats on your success in life take that to the bank brochacho

 
So after a nice morning fishing with my son and my dad, and a good early dinner at the local golf course clubhouse, I arrived home Fathers Day evening to the basement septic sump pit alarm blaring.  This was a new one for me.  Basement was finished ~3 years ago, and it's worked flawlessly.  I begrudgingly decided I needed to pop the top on the pit and see what was going on.

Long story short, after doing some trouble-shooting and testing, I figured out that the pump in the pit was working as was the alarm (obviously by the screaming, and vindicated by the high "water" in the pit).  The culprit seems to be the piggyback switch that triggers the sump pump to turn on/off.  After some exploration, I figured out the pit currently has what they call a Diaphragm switch.  As I proceeded to look/disassemble this switch and understand how it works, I'm more and more shocked that this concept works at all!  Basically, the switch relies on pressure build-up via water in the septic pit to pressurize the diaphragm to ultimately trigger a very sensitive contact switch, thus turning on the pump and emptying the contents of the pit.

Seems very prone to failure - if there's any air leak in the system, the pressure would never build high enough to trigger the switch.  It's an easy replacement based on what I've figured out, BUT - there are maybe 3-4 different types of replacement switches.  Float switches (which is what the alarm is triggered by), Vertical float switches (similar to a toilet tank), and solid state switches (electronic, no moving parts).

Does anyone have any strong opinions on these different types of switches?  I'm NOT going to get another diaphragm switch.  I just don't get/trust the concept.  Leaning towards paying up for a solid state electronic switch as they basically say they'll last forever and have no parts to get stuck/clogged/dirty.  The cost for those is ~$100, vs. $30-$40 for the other float type ones - If I'm going to have to go arms deep into a septic pit to replace a switch, I'd rather do it ONCE and never have to do it again.  Anybody have any thoughts on which switch to go with?

 
I would do a float switch. Has worked for eons, will continue to work for eons. The only risk w float switches is if the service is dirty they can get gummed up. I am guessing your sump is likely pretty clean 

 
wilked said:
I would do a float switch. Has worked for eons, will continue to work for eons. The only risk w float switches is if the service is dirty they can get gummed up. I am guessing your sump is likely pretty clean 
Click to expand...
Can you clarify what type of float switch you think is best?

Vertical Float

Tethered Float

The tethered float is what I currently have in the pit for the alarm, so I'd essentially have 2 of them at different levels if I used that to trigger the pump.

 
Vertical float is what I was picturing

Basically same as you linked, has a guide on it and a contactor when it hits its limit.  Very reliable so long as it doesn't get 'gunky'

 
We are working in the kitchen. We bought new appliances about 1.5 years ago. This past Saturday, we took down the old wallpaper border near the ceiling, which showed us that they had drawn pencil lines on the walls to keep it straight. Now, we are getting ready for painting. Wife decided she want the cabinets be white instead of the oak stain and the walls to be some shade of light gray. Of course, this will require the trim to be painted/replaced (currently teal paint even on the windows themselves) and new window coverings. She wants to replace the counters with granite too.   

 
baaloc1968 said:
We are working in the kitchen. We bought new appliances about 1.5 years ago. This past Saturday, we took down the old wallpaper border near the ceiling, which showed us that they had drawn pencil lines on the walls to keep it straight. Now, we are getting ready for painting. Wife decided she want the cabinets be white instead of the oak stain and the walls to be some shade of light gray. Of course, this will require the trim to be painted/replaced (currently teal paint even on the windows themselves) and new window coverings. She wants to replace the counters with granite too.   
Click to expand...
Scroll through the pictures.

I could have waited till summer to do it and do some more research but I did what I did over spring break. The only thing I’d change is that I’d spend another day or two sanding the doors and not painting them so fast. However, touch up paint can easily fill in the small spots that irk me when I see them.  Cabinets are not white but a light grey. Brightened my kitchen up big time. 

 
Mario Kart said:
Scroll through the pictures.

I could have waited till summer to do it and do some more research but I did what I did over spring break. The only thing I’d change is that I’d spend another day or two sanding the doors and not painting them so fast. However, touch up paint can easily fill in the small spots that irk me when I see them.  Cabinets are not white but a light grey. Brightened my kitchen up big time. 
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Our cabinets are a similar finish. Our walls are a light rose color. Most people don't notice until you compare them against the ceiling

 
Walking Boot said:
I'm getting ice forming on the items kept on the top shelf on the freezer door. No ice in the freezer compartment itself or in the fridge, just what I'm keeping on the door's shelf. What should I check first?
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I'm not sure - is that near the ice maker.

My ice maker drips into my fridge now.  I think its because the seal on the door is wornout.  And I don't know howhard it is to replace that

 
Walking Boot said:
No, not really near the ice maker. Just all along the tops of the items on the top shelf inside the door, and ice growing upward.
Click to expand...
check the top is still sealed tight....  sounds like a little air is making its way in

possible freezer plug is clogged

 
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What a freaking day today was.

The new little wood fence doesn't match up to where the old one was. I might rework it tomorrow morning because I am anal like that when it comes to minor details. Just have to raise them up, push them forward a couple inches and they should be good to go... I hope.

 
rascal said:
Thoughts on this type of flooring?  Intention is to use it in kitchen/living/dining room/master bedroom.  We will probably stick with tile in bathrooms as our kids are notorious for getting water everywhere.

https://www.lowes.com/pd/Pergo-Portfolio-WetProtect-Waterproof-Rustic-Smoked-Chestnut-7-48-in-W-x-4-52-ft-L-Embossed-Wood-Plank-Laminate-Flooring/
Click to expand...
The house I bought last year has laminate flooring throughout and it has water damage from a busted pipe a few years before we bought it ...water seeped in between the planks and there are water bulges all over the place..we have to replace all the flooring in the house except the bathrooms which have ceramic tile. We're going with porcelain tile with the wood look everywhere but the kitchen/breakfast nook where we're gonna put ceramic tile because we want a different look and feel in tthose areas. Laminate sucks IMO, especially  in kitchens where water leaks are more likely than other rooms.

 
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rascal said:
Thoughts on this type of flooring?  Intention is to use it in kitchen/living/dining room/master bedroom.  We will probably stick with tile in bathrooms as our kids are notorious for getting water everywhere.

https://www.lowes.com/pd/Pergo-Portfolio-WetProtect-Waterproof-Rustic-Smoked-Chestnut-7-48-in-W-x-4-52-ft-L-Embossed-Wood-Plank-Laminate-Flooring/
Click to expand...
How long you gonna be in this house? If it’s just a few years the above probably work fine. If it’s 10+ I personally go for hardwood, do it once do it right approach 

 
rascal said:
Thoughts on this type of flooring?  Intention is to use it in kitchen/living/dining room/master bedroom.  We will probably stick with tile in bathrooms as our kids are notorious for getting water everywhere.

https://www.lowes.com/pd/Pergo-Portfolio-WetProtect-Waterproof-Rustic-Smoked-Chestnut-7-48-in-W-x-4-52-ft-L-Embossed-Wood-Plank-Laminate-Flooring/
Click to expand...
I have a similar flooring I also got at Lowe's.  It has held up great for 5+ years.  Get the thick stuff.  There is a minor noise when walking on certain areas.  Not a big deal.

 
Wingnut said:
The house I bought last year has laminate flooring throughout and it has water damage from a busted pipe a few years before we bought it ...water seeped in between the planks and there are water bulges all over the place..we have to replace all the flooring in the house except the bathrooms which have ceramic tile. We're going with porcelain tile with the wood look everywhere but the kitchen/breakfast nook where we're gonna put ceramic tile because we want a different look and feel in tthose areas. Laminate sucks IMO, especially  in kitchens where water leaks are more likely than other rooms.
Click to expand...
I put the ceramic wood tile in a bathroom in a rental property.  I really like it.  I agree with laminate in kitchen or bathrooms, but itt easier to deal with than wood.  Just keep a few extra boxes of laminate, and replace the boards if necessary.  Wood you need to pay big money to get refinished.

 
rascal said:
Thoughts on this type of flooring?  Intention is to use it in kitchen/living/dining room/master bedroom.  We will probably stick with tile in bathrooms as our kids are notorious for getting water everywhere.

https://www.lowes.com/pd/Pergo-Portfolio-WetProtect-Waterproof-Rustic-Smoked-Chestnut-7-48-in-W-x-4-52-ft-L-Embossed-Wood-Plank-Laminate-Flooring/
Click to expand...
Personally, I think this stuff is fantastic. You need to get the thick stuff though.

Regarding water damage, the same thing is going to happen if you have a giant leak and hardwood floors. But overall I think this stuff holds up well and is very attractive flooring.

 
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