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Home-owners...What are your current projects? (5 Viewers)
- Thread starter wilked
- Start date
Sand
Footballguy
Fat Nick
Footballguy
So my house is the corner house on an 11-house dead-end street. My son just started kindergarten last week. He rides the bus with 7 other kids grades K-3. They all gather (usually with parents) at the end of the street (my lot). I want to encourage them to start waiting IN my yard, not on the sidewalk as people go WAY too fast on the road our street exits onto, and it's a blind hill just before our road.
I have a nice maple tree on that corner. I just trimmed the branches up to raise the crown, now I want to put a small slate "patio" and a park bench up there. I want to put slate vs. JUST a bench because a few folks have told me they've done similar things and their benches have been stolen. I want to bolt the bench into the slate for security.
I'm having a bit of a challenge finding a real, park-quality bench. New ones are $400+. The stuff in the non-commercial grade category are all very flimsy and don't appear to be built for the weather (and don't have bolt holes int he feet). Used stuff is hard to come by. Anybody have any tips?
I have a nice maple tree on that corner. I just trimmed the branches up to raise the crown, now I want to put a small slate "patio" and a park bench up there. I want to put slate vs. JUST a bench because a few folks have told me they've done similar things and their benches have been stolen. I want to bolt the bench into the slate for security.
I'm having a bit of a challenge finding a real, park-quality bench. New ones are $400+. The stuff in the non-commercial grade category are all very flimsy and don't appear to be built for the weather (and don't have bolt holes int he feet). Used stuff is hard to come by. Anybody have any tips?
offdee
Footballguy
I bought it from Home Depot for $250, used it for 1 hr and then taped the label back on and returned it. I know not great, but I spend so much damn money there on a weekly basis I don’t feel bad.
ragincajun
Footballguy
Build one?
offdee
Footballguy
I saw a home show recently where they installed a low wood fence and built a sitting bench right in between two of the fence posts. Looked pretty cool and a potential idea. Secure the ends of the bench into the ground with cement like fence posts....then you don’t have to do any slate base.
Found a pic..scroll down in link
https://hip2behome.com/2019/06/13/hgtv-hidden-potential-jasmine-roth-home-remodel/
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wilked
Footballguy
Call some of the city/town public works managers, they may be looking to replace some in town and give/sell you the replaced cheap
Fat Nick
Footballguy
That's actually really pretty - Looks sturdy as #### too - what I'd need for these kids. I'll have to look into that more.
wilked
Footballguy
That would get permitted. Your town should have the paperwork associated with that permit. I’d start there
offdee
Footballguy
Look for video of that Hidden Potential episode cuz they show them making it in action with wood slats and spacers. Search for “Hidden Potential Fence Bench”
⚡DEADHEAD⚡
Footballguy
So I have an attic with two room in decent shape. Peaked roof so slanted walls. House was built in 1906. Craftsman shingle.
The plaster was coming apart in one of the rooms. So I spent today tearing it all down and the lathe too. Made a huge mess. Paying two dudes $400 to clean it all up right now.
Tore it all up because I have to insulate it. Gets too hot otherwise.
So I have a blank slate of a room. And there's a chimney in the corner that I'd like to leave exposed (chimney runs to dining room so won't be using it at all).
Thinking office or possibly a bedroom. I don't want to make it storage. Too much blood, sweat and tears in it already.
And before you think of it, the other room in the attic will be the manroom.
The plaster was coming apart in one of the rooms. So I spent today tearing it all down and the lathe too. Made a huge mess. Paying two dudes $400 to clean it all up right now.
Tore it all up because I have to insulate it. Gets too hot otherwise.
So I have a blank slate of a room. And there's a chimney in the corner that I'd like to leave exposed (chimney runs to dining room so won't be using it at all).
Thinking office or possibly a bedroom. I don't want to make it storage. Too much blood, sweat and tears in it already.
And before you think of it, the other room in the attic will be the manroom.
Mario Kart
Footballguy
https://imgur.com/a/mldtVlB
So, if I'm understanding things... disconnect the fence from the post by unscrewing the screws. Can the fence stay there or should I unscrew the fence from their other posts? Then, I have to get the post out from the ground. I don't think it is in cement however I'm not 100% sure. But, if I can pull it out of the hole it is in... then what? I have to somehow secure the hole or stand the post up and fill the hole with something... dirt, rubber cement, stones, what?
GAlmgren
Footballguy
Your permit should get you in the ballpark unless there were issues of some sort during construction. Many jurisdictions require the engineer to submit an as-built, the authority (county?) would have a copy or the engineer. If no luck there, look for a locator that uses ground penetrating radar for locating septic lines. If they can find it, they will probably get you the closest.wilked said:
wilked
Footballguy
Sounds very similar to my home. Age is same. My attic had 9.5 foot ceiling at center, and a 10/12 roof. I finished it 3 years ago. Photos below. I have the before photos as well if you need them but you should be able to gather it from the plans in the link
https://drive.google.com/drive/mobile/folders/0B4rklnXTK4MpcnhHUFdka3k4UGM
for what it’s worth I did closed cell spray foam in the rafters (rafters are 2x6) and walls (2x4). Spent $5k but it was money well spent, whole house is much more efficient now
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bucksoh
Footballguy
If it is just one pole you can unscrew the fence, pull it away from the post. Stick a two by four to hold it away from post. Or if you have a helper have them hold it. If the pole isn't cemented in should come out easier. Take a sledge hit it back and forth,. If you can't pull it up, and you can stick a hose down the water it till it comes loose. If it is cemented in or you have several to do might wanna buy the post hole puller, cause it sucks to do otherwise. Auger out the hole then level the 4x4 and cement it in. If you can't get the post out just auger a hole close to post and put a new 4x4 close to it. Might look dumb but the fence should be steady. This post I have a crap load of beer in me so I'll check to make sure it's right tommorow. Good luck. Sorry didn't see sooner.
Mario Kart
Footballguy
Can't do anything till the weekend. However, what is the best way to keep the post in the ground solidly? Remove the fence, then straighten the post, then fill it "hole" around the post with dirt, sand, little rocks, pack down and reattach the fence? That seems easy to do if that is what it will take.
mr roboto
Footballguy
bucksoh
Footballguy
It's a real pia if the post is cemented in. I'm outta beer. So I'm heading to bed. After you cement it in leave a couple inches if you want to plant grass. Otherwise gravel last couple inches.
⚡DEADHEAD⚡
Footballguy
That room is pretty close to exactly what I have, except I'm down to the studs right now. You did a great job. Love how drawers and extra space is built into the wall. Did you build shelves around the studs or did you cut through them and build headers? And you say the temp is good? Do you have HVAC in the room? What part of the country do you live in?
Note I will need a new roof very soon so I may do insulation when the roof is off.
wilked
Footballguy
I put in central air as part of the project. You can see the air handler in the plans I think (it’s the “false door” in the photos, air handler is behind that). I am in Boston. That’s closed cell foam gives you over 6 R value per inch (so R-40 for 6 inches)
I framed an opening for the dressers. I bought 3 of these, unfinished, at about $300 each And finished them myself. They are secured to the framing, have held up well
https://www.homedepot.com/p/205977949
STEADYMOBBIN 22
Footballguy
The post is leaning because its rotten, broken or wasn't buried deep enough the first time. Since it's a fence post and not being used to support a structure or a gate, if I were you, I would absolutely not use concrete. If you use concrete and the post breaks again you will have to dig out the concrete the next time. Given that its adjacent to your driveway its always in danger of being damaged, even if its not you. As long as your hole is deep enough it's not going anywhere unless you back a vehicle into it and all the concrete in the world isn't going to prevent that.
Rather than concrete you can put a key at the post like this guy did.
Also, make sure you buy pressure treated wood. Good luck.
SWC
Bromigo
i would never trust that guy in your video to do anything for me if you watch it there is a turtle that walks right by him and he just goes on like it isnt even there everyone knows that any craftsman who will not stop and acknowlege how fn awesome a nearby turtle is is no craftsman you want working at your place that is all i am saying take that to the bank bromigos
bucksoh
Footballguy
Finally did my rough in plumbing after a 3 month hiatus due to kids out of school. Here is some before pics.
https://i.imgur.com/Bhzguuw.jpg,
https://i.imgur.com/vZ8Lkol.jpg,
https://i.imgur.com/fS9xfnE.jpg
And some after
https://i.imgur.com/AZR1lvx.jpg,
https://i.imgur.com/VgO7KpC.jpg,
https://i.imgur.com/XRuKA95.jpg
Got a couple quotes and it ranged from $4500-5000. So decided to pass and do it myself.
https://i.imgur.com/Bhzguuw.jpg,
https://i.imgur.com/vZ8Lkol.jpg,
https://i.imgur.com/fS9xfnE.jpg
And some after
https://i.imgur.com/AZR1lvx.jpg,
https://i.imgur.com/VgO7KpC.jpg,
https://i.imgur.com/XRuKA95.jpg
Got a couple quotes and it ranged from $4500-5000. So decided to pass and do it myself.
Sand
Footballguy
bucksoh
Footballguy
Two toilets, two.sinks , one bath tub one washer hookup, vents for each. PVC fittings cheap hiring a plumber not.
KCitons
Footballguy
Has anyone had better luck with paint matching from one place more than the other?
I need to do some touch up on the house. The house is beige and the front trim is a darker brown. I can't remove any of the trim to take in to match. (larger beams, big trim around the garage door, etc). I cut a 1"x1" piece out of the garage door trim and took it to Home Depot. He scanned it multiple times and made two different sample pints. But both are off just a little. He said it's because of the semi gloss sheen on the original.
Would I have better luck with Sherwin Williams or some other place? Trying to avoid painting everything if I can't get a great match.
PSA - take a picture of your paint labels and save them into Google Keep. I had the main color saved, but must not have done so with the trim color.
I need to do some touch up on the house. The house is beige and the front trim is a darker brown. I can't remove any of the trim to take in to match. (larger beams, big trim around the garage door, etc). I cut a 1"x1" piece out of the garage door trim and took it to Home Depot. He scanned it multiple times and made two different sample pints. But both are off just a little. He said it's because of the semi gloss sheen on the original.
Would I have better luck with Sherwin Williams or some other place? Trying to avoid painting everything if I can't get a great match.
PSA - take a picture of your paint labels and save them into Google Keep. I had the main color saved, but must not have done so with the trim color.
BigJim®
Footballguy
I need to figure some way to waterproof a below grade basement entry constructed like this photo. My actual stairwell is covered, with concrete block foundation. Our house is at the base of a wooded 45 degree hillside, so I'd been surprised we had no basement water intrusions the first 14 years. However, twice in the past 5 years major rainfall/snow melt has caused 8"deep water to pool for hours in the stairwell, and it comes in around/beneath a 1960's door. The exterior drain seems useless, heck it could be my intrusion point for all I know. I've read I can't install a sump pump on an exterior, but I'm looking at a water activated 1/2 HP pump that I can leave plugged in at the base of the stairwell, running a hose to the street. There also has to be a better door on the market, and ability to uber-caulk all around. I'm not re-carpeting an entire basement a 3rd time.
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Uruk-Hai
Footballguy
BigJim®
Footballguy
Good suggestion. I had a worthless plumber out and suggested scoping it but he said it likely runs to drain tile that is below the water table. There has to be a reason they put in the drain, but again whatever they did worked the first 14 years so maybe something is wrong with the drain.
wilked
Footballguy
I’ve found you just need to be close and not match perfectly. You will have to paint whole “sections” instead of just a quick touch up but as long as you do the section no one will notice if it’s slightly off.
lumpy19
Footballguy
Installed a new tankless water heater, instructions clearly state no grounding necessary because the unit is grounded thru the 120V plug.
I want to remove my old tank but theres a grounding strap to the natural gas line. Is that grounding strap for the water heater or for the gas line? Does gas line need to be grounded?
EDIT: Answered my own question I think, traced the gas line back and there's a ground right where it comes into the house. My assumption is the ground strap from the pipe to the water tank is to ground the tank and therefore I can remove this ground and the tank.
I want to remove my old tank but theres a grounding strap to the natural gas line. Is that grounding strap for the water heater or for the gas line? Does gas line need to be grounded?
EDIT: Answered my own question I think, traced the gas line back and there's a ground right where it comes into the house. My assumption is the ground strap from the pipe to the water tank is to ground the tank and therefore I can remove this ground and the tank.
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ragincajun
Footballguy
So my HOA sent out an email this week that said any improvements to the outside of your home must be approved, etc. $500 fine, and will seek out all legal courses if not removed or corrected. They included repainting your house with the SAME COLOR as they currently are and were approved when we built.
I am ready to buy a few acres and get the heck out of here.
I am ready to buy a few acres and get the heck out of here.
offdee
Footballguy
This is pretty standard for new subdivisions, they don't want some trash bag to come in and erect a moose statue out front or paint the house pink and decrease the value of surrounding homes. In regards to exterior paint colors they usually have a a pallet of 4-5 color choices/combinations that are acceptable.
matttyl
Footballguy
Looking for some possible outside the box thinking here.
Finished basement opens up to the lower level of a two tier deck with a set of french doors. Wife wants a doggie door there to allow our two dogs to roam inside (just one large finished basement room) and outside to the fenced in yard area as they please. Seems no one makes one of these that looks good. I'd still like to have a true "french door" where both doors open, but all I've found have the secondary door as locked in place. We don't want to make a second opening in wall to install stand alone dog door (thinking potential resale value there).
Finished basement opens up to the lower level of a two tier deck with a set of french doors. Wife wants a doggie door there to allow our two dogs to roam inside (just one large finished basement room) and outside to the fenced in yard area as they please. Seems no one makes one of these that looks good. I'd still like to have a true "french door" where both doors open, but all I've found have the secondary door as locked in place. We don't want to make a second opening in wall to install stand alone dog door (thinking potential resale value there).
matttyl
Footballguy
It's one large pane in each door. Actually it's two, as it's double pane, with the grid sandwiched between them.
offdee
Footballguy
Only real option then would be to work with the wood that’s underneath the handle (to the left and right of center crease where doors connect when closed. Cut out appropriate sized rectangle and make your own doggie door. Possible buy an actual doggy door and just use all the materials from it on your own customized door
Bull Dozier
Footballguy
Update on my backyard that I'm sure everyone is on pins and needles waiting for; pool was completely removed and filled in a few weeks ago. It took me a week or so to get dirt delivered (30 yards). I worked one weekend on it. As I was spreading the dirt, I was thinking I wouldn't have enough to go as deep as I wanted (ordered for 3 inch coverage over the sandy clay the pool was filled in with). A couple days off, then I had time to do some more, and realized I was going to have plenty. Started at the other end of the area, and started spreading thickly, whatever I have left when I get to the portion I started will go on as material permits. I've spent four or five evenings out there after work until it gets dark.
The kicker is that it rains every other day or three here lately. On a nice day I can go out, shovel the top layer off the piles, then I get to the soaked super heavy dirt underneath that weighs a ton. The ground around the pile is soaked, so I sink in and have to pull my boots out of the muck to move the wheelbarrow to dump the dirt. It's a slog of a job. At this point, it is clear I should have rented some equipment to spread it, but I've told myself I'm done spending money on this job so I am stubbornly going to do it all by hand. I have at least half the 30 yards left, if not more. I just hope I can get it spread and some seed down before it snows. Parts of North Dakota is getting three feet of snow this weekend, so my window is closing.
The kicker is that it rains every other day or three here lately. On a nice day I can go out, shovel the top layer off the piles, then I get to the soaked super heavy dirt underneath that weighs a ton. The ground around the pile is soaked, so I sink in and have to pull my boots out of the muck to move the wheelbarrow to dump the dirt. It's a slog of a job. At this point, it is clear I should have rented some equipment to spread it, but I've told myself I'm done spending money on this job so I am stubbornly going to do it all by hand. I have at least half the 30 yards left, if not more. I just hope I can get it spread and some seed down before it snows. Parts of North Dakota is getting three feet of snow this weekend, so my window is closing.
Uruk-Hai
Footballguy
How does he open the door? Or am I misunderstanding your solution?
@matttyl, no easy answer here. You're going to have to give up something to get something - it's either aesthetics or utility. If it's that important, I'd rather cut a hole in the masonry instead of wrecking a $1k french door.
matttyl
Footballguy
Ruining a $1k french door likely better than a few hundred putting a hole in masonry, and possibly lowering resaleability in the future. The french door can be replaced, a whole in the side of the house will never be patched to look right.
Uruk-Hai
Footballguy
So, how are you going to cut the pet door in the french door? How will you open the door if you do it offdee's way? You're either losing the seal and/or it's going to look like crap. You can replace it when you sell, but you're hurting yourself in the meantime.
matttyl
Footballguy
#1 - I ain't doing Offdee's way.
#2 - Also not going to try to cut the pet door into my existing door.
Currently looking at something like this. But I don't like that the primary door opens from the "wrong side", or that the secondary door is stationary. Someone's got to make something that would work.
My other option could be to find a door that's the exact same size as my secondary door, and either already has a dog door (like this), or that I can install a dog door into.
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matttyl
Footballguy
offdee
Footballguy
Ah I thought you already have the $1K French door installed and you’re trying to figure out something to customize that. If you are purchasing all new, then yeah there’s better options
matttyl
Footballguy
I do. It came with the house when I bought it. There’s no real option of customizing it to make it work. I’ll replace it, but keep the originals in the shed or something if we ever want to change back. Or sell for a few hundred if I can.
JetMaxx
Footballguy
Removed the zero clearance fireplace in our living room and installing a Jotul F500 Oslo wood burning stove. After a 6 month search for that particular stove at reasonable price, I found this one an hour away. $3k new for $300 new to me. Structurally sound, some cosmetic surface rust that’s been easily sanded and painted. Currently building the backing surround to code and it will be on a new tile hearth. Including stove pipe, some of which can be used from the fireplace, I’m hoping to be under $1k for the entire project.
Since I have access to as much wood as I’d like to cut and split, once this is done we’ll only have to buy propane to cook with, which will be every 5th blue moon.
Since I have access to as much wood as I’d like to cut and split, once this is done we’ll only have to buy propane to cook with, which will be every 5th blue moon.
offdee
Footballguy
Another idea could be to remove the glass on one panel and then just build up the bottom 1/3 by adding wood, bondo the seams, sand and reprime and paint. Since the glass is solid with the grids sandwiched between you could probably get that all cut down shorter and put back in your new opening.
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