BowieMercs
Footballguy
Current project is to return to an empty nest. That means getting extended family on their feet & out the door 
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Home-owners...What are your current projects? (2 Viewers)
- Thread starter wilked
- Start date
The Commish
Footballguy
Went back to check....Mine were $100 a piece...down from the typical $199. Maybe I got lucky?
ETA: Looks like pricing has changed on these things though. They've come down a little bit from when I bought them several years ago. That company also makes some pretty nice shelving units too. Worth a look.
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Fat Nick
Footballguy
I hang obscene amounts of stuff from the walls/ceilings in our garage. Previous owners had NO shelving or storage in there. It's no wonder they could only park 1 car in a 3 car garage.
I've wondered about these racks in the past. I've only got a little bit of unused ceiling space with our kayaks and cargo box already up there, but these seem like a no-brainer if you need the space.
Fat Nick
Footballguy
Pictures when it's done! Sounds awesome.
Question - What did the bolded part above about the steep beam run? Approximately?
We've got 2 potential remodels down the road, one a basement finish, and the other a potential shift of rooms downstairs, and one or both may need some sort of beam put in. I have no clue what that kind of thing costs.
Binky The Doormat
Footballguy
The Commish
Footballguy
Back to the Safe Racks....the sales are starting:
http://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00BY7K3J6/ref=pe_62810_151278990_em_1p_0_ti
Though, I think you can do better on the shipping.
http://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00BY7K3J6/ref=pe_62810_151278990_em_1p_0_ti
Though, I think you can do better on the shipping.
Sand
Footballguy
Just depends on the projector and the size you're projecting onto. Some have a shorter throw than others. There are a number of high quality projectors out there these days.
So I have a hole forming in my backyard by the rain gutter. It's from years of water rushing down and washing the sand away.
My plan is to fill it but not sure with what. Do I just straight dirt/sand or am I better off using all rocks/pebbles? Both? If both, in what order?
I'm not concerned with grass growing there at this time.
My plan is to fill it but not sure with what. Do I just straight dirt/sand or am I better off using all rocks/pebbles? Both? If both, in what order?
I'm not concerned with grass growing there at this time.
matttyl
Footballguy
Is digging a trench and burying a line of corrugated pipe to run the water elsewhere and never worry about this issue again an option?
Fat Nick
Footballguy
x2 - Filling the hole will just be a temporary fix.
If all you really can do is fill it, I'd suggest trying to break up the force of the flow if possible. Fill the bottom in with soil, but put larger rocks near the top where the full force of the water hits. This will break the flow of water up and hopefully reduce erosion. To mattyl's point, the best thing is to run the water elsewhere so that it can flow out into a proper discharge.
Good idea, but yeah, that's not gonna happen...
We're only going to be in the house for 3 to 5 more years before moving so I'm trying to keep all of the house projects relatively simple and cheap.
And full disclosure, I suck at all of this house/handyman stuff.
The Commish
Footballguy
How long of a run is this exactly? It's a tube and your time...depending on the distance would be really cheap.
msommer
Footballguy
Not a home owner anymore but this project has me stoked up:
Converting an unused bathroom to a (semi) permanent brewery.
Steps involved:
1. Remove glass partition from the shower and remove access door
2. Install water filter and reservoir for filtered water (water pressure very low so it will take forever to fill the brew kettle otherwise
3. Build/install metal table for work space (likely have built as opposed to build on my own)
4. Draw power lines to be able to run 6kW (three kettles at the same time, 2 brewing kettles and one for sparge water)
5. Install piping/plumbing between reservoir, brew kettles, chiller. Potentially install piping/plumbing + pump for sparge water. potentially instally reservoir for waste water (from chiller) to be used for cleaning
6. Do all of the above so it can be taken apart and put back together with minimal fuss as I'll need the equipment for events
Work should begin in September when I have an approximate arrival date for my brewing stuff.
I'll try to document the process
Converting an unused bathroom to a (semi) permanent brewery.
Steps involved:
1. Remove glass partition from the shower and remove access door
2. Install water filter and reservoir for filtered water (water pressure very low so it will take forever to fill the brew kettle otherwise
3. Build/install metal table for work space (likely have built as opposed to build on my own)
4. Draw power lines to be able to run 6kW (three kettles at the same time, 2 brewing kettles and one for sparge water)
5. Install piping/plumbing between reservoir, brew kettles, chiller. Potentially install piping/plumbing + pump for sparge water. potentially instally reservoir for waste water (from chiller) to be used for cleaning
6. Do all of the above so it can be taken apart and put back together with minimal fuss as I'll need the equipment for events
Work should begin in September when I have an approximate arrival date for my brewing stuff.
I'll try to document the process
BowieMercs
Footballguy
This. Bury a tube running 10 feet or so downhill away from the house & put a popup drain in .
matttyl
Footballguy
Ripped off all the railing and ~512 sq ft. of old, weathered, splintering, wood deck over the weekend. Waterproofing material (trek "rain escape" to be installed in next few days, and trek composite decking and railings to be delivered in next 48 hours. Brand new deck by 4th of July weekend? It will be close....
bueno
In a class by himself
matttyl
Footballguy
I'd been saying it for about two years now. Have an 11 month old now, who's just starting "walking". If he got a splinter on that deck, I'd never forgive myself. When pulling up the boards and seeing the horrible rusted through nails holding the deck boards on, I'm glad I didn't put it off any longer.
Got a great deal on labor from my buddy who's a contractor - and got a great deal on materials from local Home Depot (called in a favor from friend who works there to give me "pro" discount).
bueno
In a class by himself
I tore mine down and put up a temporary set of steps. I have vowed that won't be permanent. Just trying to get my Son in law to come out and help.
Johnny Rock
Footballguy
belljr
Footballguy
matttyl
Footballguy
That was initially my plan as well. I came across a snag, though, which you may as well. Up until I ripped them off Saturday, the 4x4 posts for my railing were all bolted to the outside of the far joists. That no longer meets code, they have to be inside the far joists, and sandwiched in with another joist that's being run today. I have to do it now, with the decking - otherwise I'd have to take off the decking off again later to move them and re-cut decking around the moved posts.
belljr
Footballguy
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Deck Talk: Just removed all the rotting boards and did deck over paint finish. Deck was painted when we bought the house so we just sanded and repainted. That paint is great, it's textured for non-slip and durable as hell. Hint: scour the home depot until you find a 5 gallon pail of whatever type paint you want in the reused/discount section that is white/light grey. Purchase it at a huge discount and bring it back in the next day to have them color it the color you want for free. Got two pails of that deck over for $30 each that way. Added a stencil so it looks kind of like this.
Letting the old lady do most of the deck work as that was her idea and project. I've added a garden fence with Japanese trellis and an iron arbor made from scrap iron bought at a garage sale for $10. Going to tackle taking up the asphalt driveway and replacing with concrete pavers or brick next.
Letting the old lady do most of the deck work as that was her idea and project. I've added a garden fence with Japanese trellis and an iron arbor made from scrap iron bought at a garage sale for $10. Going to tackle taking up the asphalt driveway and replacing with concrete pavers or brick next.
matttyl
Footballguy
That's what she said. I mean, literally that's what my wife said when we bought the house. Me, being the analytical one knew it would have to be replaced soon as it was very weathered then. We got another 3 years out of it, but it was time - especially with my son soon to be walking.
Yes, I'm keeping all the underlying support joints (well, replacing one and running two more to sandwich the posts for railings) the header, and the 5 6x6 (or maybe 8x8, they're big) posts. One issue that I'm trying to address now - the previous deck was wooden, and built in place. That's not an issue for the decking or railings so much, but it is for the stair case. The deck is actually two decks - each 512 sq ft (32' wide by 16' deep) one one top of the other - with a staircase connecting the two (sorta like this, not my house). The railings and stairs can be built "in place" when using wood - but can't when using trex stair railings. Those kits are built to be EXACTLY 6' (I think) long. That means I'll have to cantilever off the stairs platform to shorten my current runs - but I can only do that so far and meet code. I'll also need to make that platform wider as the "inner" stair railings can't be stacked with Trex like they can with built in place wood ones. That staircase alone is nearly half my overall budget.
I'm not doing anything to the downstairs deck, that's staying as it - but with a waterproof ceiling above it - I'll never have to.
matttyl
Footballguy
Move them, and do so before the new decking is put down.
My initial plan was to do this in 3 ~$5k installments. The first would be replacing the decking itself. The second was going to be replacing the railings later (maybe a year later), and the third was going to be replacing the staircase and platform (decking and railings). Yeah, that couldn't be done - it had to be done all at once.
Just to make sure we're saying the same thing - a week ago my railings were attached like this (which apparently doesn't meet code for new work). A week from now they will be attached like this, and sandwiched between two boards.
Cold Dead Hands
Footballguy
Two years ago, I painted my old deck with Sherwin - Williams SuperDeck product. Rubberized deck paint. I can't advocate for this stuff enough. My decking was delaminating and you would get splinters just looking at it. We all walk on it with bare feet and my kids roll around and rough house on it. Saved my deck fro a fraction of the price of Trex.
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The Commish
Footballguy
belljr
Footballguy
matttyl
Footballguy
belljr
Footballguy
Crap. Just checked. Mine are like yours but with a facial board attached so they dont Look like they stick out.
how do i Know if my code is the same
After about four years of suffering with a range hood that recirculates air, and essentially does nothing about cooking odors, we're going to replace for one that vents properly to outside.Don't think I'm going to trust myself with cutting a hole in the wall/siding, likely go with professional install.
Any recommendations from the board on brands/capacity/anything else are welcome. Hopefully be able to keep the half-height cabinets over the range.
Any recommendations from the board on brands/capacity/anything else are welcome. Hopefully be able to keep the half-height cabinets over the range.
Cold Dead Hands
Footballguy
matttyl
Footballguy
You'll need to check with your local jurisdiction I suppose. I was fine to leave my current deck the way it was, but with replacing it, I had to meet code with anything I did - meaning I couldn't replace the railings with something that doesn't now meet code. Doing it with the railing posts sandwiched, though, will make my railings much stronger (very important with a child and a ~12-15' drop) - and will actually look much nicer with how I'm doing the decking and the fascia board wrapping the entire space.
belljr
Footballguy
Yeah. I was going to do this piece meal like mattyl said. But since I have to tear up my deck floors, I might as well move the posts now instead of tabbing out my floors, putting them down, then next year moving the posts and recutting floors.
I was trying to avoid complete teardown but it looks like it will be easier to just do it all at once
matttyl
Footballguy
Right - so if you had to move the railings after replacing the decking, you'd have to cut into your newly laid down decking to do so - plus the labor to do it that way would be much harder. Belljr, just do it all at once and save yourself the headache later.
And this assumes that your code is the same as mine. It might not be. If you're going composite decking, though, I'd suggest doing it all now - as vynal or composite railings just don't look right when attached outside the end boards.
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belljr
Footballguy
Agree. I'm getting the ones that just slip over the posts (assume the all do). I'll just need to put a new "facial" board (not sure the actual name)
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Fat Nick
Footballguy
I think the actual code is that a deck rail (and post) must be able to withstand 200 lbs of lateral force along the top of the post - I don't recall any specific codes related to the post having to be inside or outside of the rim joists - but with that said, when I did my deck last year, I had my rails inside, so maybe it just never came up.
I do know that my old deck posts were notched and bolted to the outside of the rim joist, and when I was doing demo, I pulled them off by hand.
Quez
Footballguy
I bought my house abut 3 years ago, and it has about a 5yo AC unit, but it's undersized. My wife bit€hes every afternoon when it creeps up to almost 80. I replaced the roof 2 years ago, and got ridge vents cut in. Previously, there was an attic fan that didn't even work. The vents seem to help it cool off quicker once the sun goes down. I also replaced 2 sliding glass doors with new energy efficient ones. Still, it's hot. My AC guy suggested moving the 2 return vents from lower wall to the ceiling. Gonna give this a shot, but might end up having to buy a new AC. I wonder if I can sell my old one if it is still good?
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The Commish
Footballguy
Ridge vent is passive...it might not be enough. I learned this the hard way when my attic fans died. I replaced them with these and they made a big difference. With the tax credits provided right now, they are as affordable as the electric ones without having to pay a cent to run them.
matttyl
Footballguy
I'm a huge proponent of ridge vents - if they are installed properly. I remember when I replaced the roof on my last house - cutting the opening at the ridge for the vent to go over (it was a very warm day, maybe upper 80s or so), and the hot air coming out of the attic when we opened it up was crazy. I may have this backwards, but you want more ridge venting than you do soffit venting to "pull" cooler air into the attic from the soffit once the hot air escapes. You also want the ridge vent at the highest point and the (unobstructed) soffit vents at the lowest.
That set up, along with doubling the insulation in my attic, and installing a "radiant barrier" (just really think aluminum foil to reflect radiant heat from the roof) has really, really helped. My attic temps are down 10-20 degrees in the summer now - without the need of any powered fans.
The Commish
Footballguy
I wasn't bagging on ridge vents....they are vital and I agree with what you say, but they are passive. They are there to release heat as it accumulates, but they don't actively promote air flow like a fan does. Your example is similar to mine, only I've reduced temps by 35 degrees with the fans in place.
ghostguy123
Footballguy
Anybody ever look into or install (or have installed for you) a stand-by generator? I was looking into one that runs on natural gas. Not something that I need to run the entire house, but something to run the essentials like sump pump, fridge, some lights, and furnace. I am not sure how much power it takes to run the hot water tank. Everything in my house is electric except the furnace.
Or would it be worth it to just get one that is strong enough to run everything? I mean, if the power is out for any sort of extended period of time I certainly wouldn't plan to run the entire house like normal. I wouldn't want it running the central air or anything, although I guess it would be nice to have the option to do so.
Also, how does the installation of a stand-by generator go along with re-sale value of a home? I do live in northeast Ohio, so there is plenty of opportunity for power outages during times of the year where it really really sucks to have power outages.
Or would it be worth it to just get one that is strong enough to run everything? I mean, if the power is out for any sort of extended period of time I certainly wouldn't plan to run the entire house like normal. I wouldn't want it running the central air or anything, although I guess it would be nice to have the option to do so.
Also, how does the installation of a stand-by generator go along with re-sale value of a home? I do live in northeast Ohio, so there is plenty of opportunity for power outages during times of the year where it really really sucks to have power outages.
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matttyl
Footballguy
Some family of mine put one in with a house they were renovating. Theirs in propane powered I believe. It kicks on once every week or two (lights flicker for a second) just to do a "self check". This cost was very high, and I doubt they'll get it back in resale (but they don't plan on ever selling). Theirs was large enough for the entire house with everything in it, though.
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