BowieMercs
Footballguy
Current project is to return to an empty nest. That means getting extended family on their feet & out the door
Went back to check....Mine were $100 a piece...down from the typical $199. Maybe I got lucky?I have these but don't think I ever saw them below $150 for the 4x8.Have you bought them yet? If not wait until you can get them on sale at Cosco. They'll be a third of the price. You'll get 3 for $250. I had them in my last house so much I bought them for my new house.Garage ceiling shelving 4'x8' - SafeRacks. Still gotta get the wife to pick out out all of the Christmas decoration boxes, etc in the attic to store up there. Really like it.
Safe Racks
I hang obscene amounts of stuff from the walls/ceilings in our garage. Previous owners had NO shelving or storage in there. It's no wonder they could only park 1 car in a 3 car garage.Garage ceiling shelving 4'x8' - SafeRacks. Still gotta get the wife to pick out out all of the Christmas decoration boxes, etc in the attic to store up there. Really like it.
Safe Racks
Pictures when it's done! Sounds awesome.If anyone cares, this project is about 90% complete. Went fully custom on the bar. It's about 70" long and wraps around to the back wall either 30" or 60" depending on if you measure from the front or the back of the bar. It's a black granite bar top about 28" front to back, with another 30 inches for me to maneuver around behind. Had a party there on Saturday night where me and my brother tended bar, perfect amount of space for us to move around. There's also cabinets along the back wall about 9" depth out from the wall with the bottles on top, 42" off the ground same as the bar front. Sink in the corner, mini-fridge under the bar, and a shelf underneath. The real cool piece was the backlit onyx panels I had them put on the front. Adds a real cool vibe to the whole thing.Bought the house in the fall of 2012. Did the usual redoing the floors, painting, etc in year 1. Spent big on renovating the two rooms downstairs into one large family room in year 2. Needed to put up a steel beam that ran the length of the room (~24'), also paid for tiling, refinished that bathroom, new windows, slider, crown molding, all that. That migrated over to the staircase where I sanded and refinished/painted the side of the staircase (bi-level house so the sides are exposed), new tiling in the foyer, etc. So from the first floor down was 90% done. Only piece missing was the bar. Contractor is coming by to measure it all out in about an hour and get started. OHBOYOHBOYOHBOYOHBOY! THIS is the part that I'm psyched for.
The next few projects? Not as much. We gotta do the main and master baths, refinish the entire kitchen that was last done circa 1967, new deck since the one we have is an actual danger to people's lives, all new windows, and siding the house. Jesus that's a lot, and probably forgetting a few other things. Maybe we should just tear the whole place down and rebuild it. I'm paying for the majority of the work, not doing much myself.
Still gotta do the frosted glass shelves above the back cabinets, which we're running LED lights through for a light-up effect on the bottles, mount the TV, throw up a few more shelves on the bar back, and install the overhead wine glass rack. Gonna run around $12k all-in with materials, labor, etc.
I'll post a pick when we get the stuff up there.I hang obscene amounts of stuff from the walls/ceilings in our garage. Previous owners had NO shelving or storage in there. It's no wonder they could only park 1 car in a 3 car garage.Garage ceiling shelving 4'x8' - SafeRacks. Still gotta get the wife to pick out out all of the Christmas decoration boxes, etc in the attic to store up there. Really like it.
Safe Racks
I've wondered about these racks in the past. I've only got a little bit of unused ceiling space with our kayaks and cargo box already up there, but these seem like a no-brainer if you need the space.
Just depends on the projector and the size you're projecting onto. Some have a shorter throw than others. There are a number of high quality projectors out there these days.Anyone install a projector onto a wall as a tv source? Initial half arsed research turned up I needed 15 feet. Of course I've got about 13' and some change, before running into the the drywall hiding the i-beam.
Is digging a trench and burying a line of corrugated pipe to run the water elsewhere and never worry about this issue again an option?So I have a hole forming in my backyard by the rain gutter. It's from years of water rushing down and washing the sand away.
My plan is to fill it but not sure with what. Do I just straight dirt/sand or am I better off using all rocks/pebbles? Both? If both, in what order?
I'm not concerned with grass growing there at this time.
x2 - Filling the hole will just be a temporary fix.Is digging a trench and burying a line of corrugated pipe to run the water elsewhere and never worry about this issue again an option?
Good idea, but yeah, that's not gonna happen...Is digging a trench and burying a line of corrugated pipe to run the water elsewhere and never worry about this issue again an option?
How long of a run is this exactly? It's a tube and your time...depending on the distance would be really cheap.Good idea, but yeah, that's not gonna happen...
We're only going to be in the house for 3 to 5 more years before moving so I'm trying to keep all of the house projects relatively simple and cheap.
And full disclosure, I suck at all of this house/handyman stuff.
This. Bury a tube running 10 feet or so downhill away from the house & put a popup drain in .How long of a run is this exactly? It's a tube and your time...depending on the distance would be really cheap.
I need to build a new deck too. Procrastinating....Ripped off all the railing and ~512 sq ft. of old, weathered, splintering, wood deck over the weekend. Waterproofing material (trek "rain escape" to be installed in next few days, and trek composite decking and railings to be delivered in next 48 hours. Brand new deck by 4th of July weekend? It will be close....
I'd been saying it for about two years now. Have an 11 month old now, who's just starting "walking". If he got a splinter on that deck, I'd never forgive myself. When pulling up the boards and seeing the horrible rusted through nails holding the deck boards on, I'm glad I didn't put it off any longer.I need to build a new deck too. Procrastinating....
I tore mine down and put up a temporary set of steps. I have vowed that won't be permanent. Just trying to get my Son in law to come out and help.I'd been saying it for about two years now. Have an 11 month old now, who's just starting "walking". If he got a splinter on that deck, I'd never forgive myself. When pulling up the boards and seeing the horrible rusted through nails holding the deck boards on, I'm glad I didn't put it off any longer.
Got a great deal on labor from my buddy who's a contractor - and got a great deal on materials from local Home Depot (called in a favor from friend who works there to give me "pro" discount).
Sounds like you're keeping all the underlying support posts and beams? That's huge.Ripped off all the railing and ~512 sq ft. of old, weathered, splintering, wood deck over the weekend. Waterproofing material (trek "rain escape" to be installed in next few days, and trek composite decking and railings to be delivered in next 48 hours. Brand new deck by 4th of July weekend? It will be close....
That's my plan. Assuming they are in good condition.Sounds like you're keeping all the underlying support posts and beams? That's huge.
That was initially my plan as well. I came across a snag, though, which you may as well. Up until I ripped them off Saturday, the 4x4 posts for my railing were all bolted to the outside of the far joists. That no longer meets code, they have to be inside the far joists, and sandwiched in with another joist that's being run today. I have to do it now, with the decking - otherwise I'd have to take off the decking off again later to move them and re-cut decking around the moved posts.Later this summer or fall I will be replacing the deck flooring with Trex.
Then later little by little replace the railings with Trex stuff
Like I care if I meet code. AHAHAHAHAHThat was initially my plan as well. I came across a snag, though, which you may as well. Up until I ripped them off Saturday, the 4x4 posts for my railing were all bolted to the outside of the far joists. That no longer meets code, they have to be inside the far joists, and sandwiched in with another joist that's being run today. I have to do it now, with the decking - otherwise I'd have to take off the decking off again later to move them and re-cut decking around the moved posts.
That's what she said. I mean, literally that's what my wife said when we bought the house. Me, being the analytical one knew it would have to be replaced soon as it was very weathered then. We got another 3 years out of it, but it was time - especially with my son soon to be walking.Sounds like you're keeping all the underlying support posts and beams? That's huge.
Move them, and do so before the new decking is put down.So what do I have to do to change that?
Thinking of this very product...how is it applied? Roller? Brush? Sprayer?Two years ago, I painted my old deck with Sherwin - Williams SuperDeck product. Rubberized deck paint. I can't advocate for this stuff enough. My decking was delaminating and you would get splinters just looking at it. We all walk on it with bare feet and my kids roll around and rough house on it. Saved my deck fro a fraction of the price of Trex.
My deck is 20 years old. Ive Reached a point where boards are starting to rotTwo years ago, I painted my old deck with Sherwin - Williams SuperDeck product. Rubberized deck paint. I can't advocate for this stuff enough. My decking was delaminating and you would get splinters just looking at it. We all walk on it with bare feet and my kids roll around and rough house on it. Saved my deck fro a fraction of the price of Trex.
That's where I was as well.My deck is 20 years old. Ive Reached a point where boards are starting to rot
Crap. Just checked. Mine are like yours but with a facial board attached so they dont Look like they stick out.Deck Taknok: Just removed all the ro tting boards and disttck over paint finish. Deck was painted when we bought the house so we just sanded and repainted. That paint is great, it's textured for non-slip and durable as hell. Hint: scour the home depot until you find a 5 gallon pail of whatever type paint you want in the reused/discount section that is white/light grey. Purchase it at a huge discount and bring it back in the next day to have them color it the color you want for free. Got two pails of that deck over for $30 each that way. Added a stencil so it looks kind of like this.
Letting the old lady do most of the deck work as that was her idea and project. I've added a garden fence with Japanese trellis and an iron arbor made from scrap iron bought at a garage sale for $10. Going to tackle taking up the asphalt driveway and replacing with concrete pavers or brick next.
Wat? I think you meant to quote mattyl.Crap. Just checked. Mine are like yours but with a facial board attached so they dont Look like they stick out.
how do i Know if my code is the same
Roller or brush. Way too thick for a sprayer.Thinking of this very product...how is it applied? Roller? Brush? Sprayer?
You'll need to check with your local jurisdiction I suppose. I was fine to leave my current deck the way it was, but with replacing it, I had to meet code with anything I did - meaning I couldn't replace the railings with something that doesn't now meet code. Doing it with the railing posts sandwiched, though, will make my railings much stronger (very important with a child and a ~12-15' drop) - and will actually look much nicer with how I'm doing the decking and the fascia board wrapping the entire space.Oops. Sorry tony. Yes that was for matts pictures
Yeah. I was going to do this piece meal like mattyl said. But since I have to tear up my deck floors, I might as well move the posts now instead of tabbing out my floors, putting them down, then next year moving the posts and recutting floors.I had new vinyl railing out on my deck last year and I also had to move the posts. Since I wasn't replacing the decking, they just cut holes through it.
Right - so if you had to move the railings after replacing the decking, you'd have to cut into your newly laid down decking to do so - plus the labor to do it that way would be much harder. Belljr, just do it all at once and save yourself the headache later.I had new vinyl railing out on my deck last year and I also had to move the posts. Since I wasn't replacing the decking, they just cut holes through it.
Agree. I'm getting the ones that just slip over the posts (assume the all do). I'll just need to put a new "facial" board (not sure the actual name)Right - so if you had to move the railings after replacing the decking, you'd have to cut into your newly laid down decking to do so - plus the labor to do it that way would be much harder. Belljr, just do it all at once and save yourself the headache later.
And this assumes that your code is the same as mine. It might not be. If you're going composite decking, though, I'd suggest doing it all now - as vynal or composite railings just don't look right when attached outside the end boards.
I think the actual code is that a deck rail (and post) must be able to withstand 200 lbs of lateral force along the top of the post - I don't recall any specific codes related to the post having to be inside or outside of the rim joists - but with that said, when I did my deck last year, I had my rails inside, so maybe it just never came up.Thanks. I'll need to move them anyway when I put pvc railings up anyway. So I may as do that now I guess.
I need to check NJ code
Ridge vent is passive...it might not be enough. I learned this the hard way when my attic fans died. I replaced them with these and they made a big difference. With the tax credits provided right now, they are as affordable as the electric ones without having to pay a cent to run them.I bought my house abut 3 years ago, and it has about a 5yo AC unit, but it's undersized. My wife bit€hes every afternoon when it creeps up to almost 80. I replaced the roof 2 years ago, and got ridge vents cut in. Previously, there was an attic fan that didn't even work. The vents seem to help it cool off quicker once the sun goes down. I also replaced 2 sliding glass doors with new energy efficient ones. Still, it's hot. My AC guy suggested moving the 2 return vents from lower wall to the ceiling. Gonna give this a shot, but might end up having to buy a new AC. I wonder if I can sell my old one if it is still good?
I'm a huge proponent of ridge vents - if they are installed properly. I remember when I replaced the roof on my last house - cutting the opening at the ridge for the vent to go over (it was a very warm day, maybe upper 80s or so), and the hot air coming out of the attic when we opened it up was crazy. I may have this backwards, but you want more ridge venting than you do soffit venting to "pull" cooler air into the attic from the soffit once the hot air escapes. You also want the ridge vent at the highest point and the (unobstructed) soffit vents at the lowest.Ridge vent is passive...it might not be enough. I learned this the hard way when my attic fans died. I replaced them with these and they made a big difference. With the tax credits provided right now, they are as affordable as the electric ones without having to pay a cent to run them.
I wasn't bagging on ridge vents....they are vital and I agree with what you say, but they are passive. They are there to release heat as it accumulates, but they don't actively promote air flow like a fan does. Your example is similar to mine, only I've reduced temps by 35 degrees with the fans in place.I'm a huge proponent of ridge vents - if they are installed properly. I remember when I replaced the roof on my last house - cutting the opening at the ridge for the vent to go over (it was a very warm day, maybe upper 80s or so), and the hot air coming out of the attic when we opened it up was crazy. I may have this backwards, but you want more ridge venting than you do soffit venting to "pull" cooler air into the attic from the soffit once the hot air escapes. You also want the ridge vent at the highest point and the (unobstructed) soffit vents at the lowest.Ridge vent is passive...it might not be enough. I learned this the hard way when my attic fans died. I replaced them with these and they made a big difference. With the tax credits provided right now, they are as affordable as the electric ones without having to pay a cent to run them.
That set up, along with doubling the insulation in my attic, and installing a "radiant barrier" (just really think aluminum foil to reflect radiant heat from the roof) has really, really helped. My attic temps are down 10-20 degrees in the summer now - without the need of any powered fans.
Some family of mine put one in with a house they were renovating. Theirs in propane powered I believe. It kicks on once every week or two (lights flicker for a second) just to do a "self check". This cost was very high, and I doubt they'll get it back in resale (but they don't plan on ever selling). Theirs was large enough for the entire house with everything in it, though.Anybody ever look into or install (or have installed for you) a stand-by generator? I was looking into one that runs on natural gas. Not something that I need to run the entire house, but something to run the essentials like sump pump, fridge, some lights, and furnace. I am not sure how much power it takes to run the hot water tank. Everything in my house is electric except the furnace.
Or would it be worth it to just get one that is strong enough to run everything? I mean, if the power is out for any sort of extended period of time I certainly wouldn't plan to run the entire house like normal. I wouldn't want it running the central air or anything, although I guess it would be nice to have the option to do so.
Also, how does the installation of a stand-by generator go along with re-sale value of a home? I do live in northeast Ohio, so there is plenty of opportunity for power outages during times of the year where it really really sucks to have power outages.